Favorite Oysters in Paris
Aug 24th, 2005, 10:38 AM
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i live in coastal so. carolina which i believe produces the finests oysters in the US bar none...
in paris (or in the US for that matter), the issue is freshness. parisians love oysters (and moules) and since more parisians drive renaults than mercedes, it's best to look for the more crowded venues to assure turnover.
i particularly like the cafe marco polo on the place de la nation which has some of the freshest shellfish and mollusks in paris. it's not particularly fashionable but is VERY popular amongst the locals.
in paris (or in the US for that matter), the issue is freshness. parisians love oysters (and moules) and since more parisians drive renaults than mercedes, it's best to look for the more crowded venues to assure turnover.
i particularly like the cafe marco polo on the place de la nation which has some of the freshest shellfish and mollusks in paris. it's not particularly fashionable but is VERY popular amongst the locals.
Aug 24th, 2005, 10:51 AM
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Christmas time is a haven for oyster mavens in Paris or France in general. Oysters are everywhere - the traditional Christmas Eve midnight meal always it seems features huitres (oysters) - shops have special displays out front.
Aug 24th, 2005, 12:35 PM
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By the way, after years of eating raw oysters in the US dipped into "shrimp cocktail" sauce spiked with extra horseradish, I quickly learned in France that I much prefer them with that simple vinegar and shallots they offer. You can actually taste the oyster that way.
The best oysters we had in France were at about 9 in the morning along the seawall at Cancale, where they set up little booths and you buy a dozen being hauled out of the water, then pay a little old lady a small fee to shuck them for you. You eat them and toss the shells into the sea. We kicked ourselves all day for only splitting a dozen thinking it was too early in the day. Heck -- best breakfast I ever had -- but wished we had done a couple dozen apiece.
The best oysters we had in France were at about 9 in the morning along the seawall at Cancale, where they set up little booths and you buy a dozen being hauled out of the water, then pay a little old lady a small fee to shuck them for you. You eat them and toss the shells into the sea. We kicked ourselves all day for only splitting a dozen thinking it was too early in the day. Heck -- best breakfast I ever had -- but wished we had done a couple dozen apiece.
Aug 24th, 2005, 01:03 PM
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Oh Patrick - Cancale! I'd almost forgotten the lovely day and evening I spent there. Thanks for the memory! 
But in Paris, I recall one spring, early April, wandering the streets of Montmartre. One street in particular had shops on both sides, with lots of fishmongers in between the patisseries, boulangeries, charcutiers etc. We just stopped there, asked for half a dozen oysters (we chose which ones). They were opened there and then and we ate them with a squeeze of lemon offered by the 'oysterman'. Standing on a Paris street with the juice dribbling down our chins, so good we just had to have another half dozen, and again later on the same day, and the next day too. Then it was Sunday and there was no oysterman.
This oyster incident is one of the defining moments of my travels so far...
But in Paris, I recall one spring, early April, wandering the streets of Montmartre. One street in particular had shops on both sides, with lots of fishmongers in between the patisseries, boulangeries, charcutiers etc. We just stopped there, asked for half a dozen oysters (we chose which ones). They were opened there and then and we ate them with a squeeze of lemon offered by the 'oysterman'. Standing on a Paris street with the juice dribbling down our chins, so good we just had to have another half dozen, and again later on the same day, and the next day too. Then it was Sunday and there was no oysterman.
This oyster incident is one of the defining moments of my travels so far...
Aug 25th, 2005, 02:49 PM
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We had some amazing oysters at Bowfinger's, near the Bastille. A huge plate of Belons, Marennes, etc., icy cold and fresh, with brown bread and butter, a great mignonette and a crisp Sancerre. It hurts just to think about it.
Aug 25th, 2005, 04:51 PM
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JWard
I once got seriously food-poisoned by eating oysters in a Paris restaurant on Montparnasse. Unfortunately, I can't remember its name, but it's the famous one where Hemmingway used to "live". Beware.
By contrast, my best oyster experience was at the French St. Martin, at a spectacular French buffet dinner at La Belle Creole, where at the very first stand was a tall local waiter in a tall white chef's hat, opening hugest most succulent oysters I have ever seen. I just kept coming up to him and nodding for more. I never went past him. My bemused DH was telling me about the rest of the delicacies. I still do not regret one bit....
I once got seriously food-poisoned by eating oysters in a Paris restaurant on Montparnasse. Unfortunately, I can't remember its name, but it's the famous one where Hemmingway used to "live". Beware.
By contrast, my best oyster experience was at the French St. Martin, at a spectacular French buffet dinner at La Belle Creole, where at the very first stand was a tall local waiter in a tall white chef's hat, opening hugest most succulent oysters I have ever seen. I just kept coming up to him and nodding for more. I never went past him. My bemused DH was telling me about the rest of the delicacies. I still do not regret one bit....
Aug 25th, 2005, 05:44 PM
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If you are around the r. Cler [7th arr.] try the wonderful oysters at L'Ecailler Normand. This is a stand on the r. Cler in front of the Petit Brasserie PTT. Stephane is there Thursdays through Sundays when oysters are in season. They are fresh and wonderful. For a special treat get an assortment on a plate and see how different they taste depending on where they were harvested. We have visited with Stephane for over 5 years now and the quality has always been superb. You can talk to him in either French or English. You can tell that oysters are good since he has a regular repeat clientele from the neighborhood. While you are at it walk around the corner to the r. Champs de Mars and stop in at L'Epicerie Fine. It is hard if not impossible to leave empty handed. Say hello to Pascal and trust his suggestions.
Aug 25th, 2005, 06:40 PM
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That's Bofingers, not Bowfingers, but as an aside, La Terasse on the Place Ecole Militaire has a great selection of oysters. Not, mind you, like what you can get in Bordeaux or La Rochelle, but close enough.
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