We enjoyed the Dutch collection and Napoleon's ornate apartment in addition to the must sees.

The Egyptian collection, the Ancient Louvre, Large-Scale French paintings, and my absolute favorite--Napoleon's Apartments
Barb

I was gobsmacked by the ethnological collection, which was, if I remember correctly, near the Lions Gate entrance. Oceanea and other objects, an Easter Island head, ancient South American statues, and more. All presented as art, not curiosities.

They close some galleries in the evenings so make sure to check the Louvre website before you go- it has a schedule of what will be open and closed to the public during the evening hours.

I loved the Northern School galleries, which focus on Flemish, Dutch, and German paintings from the 14th to 19th centuries. There are van Eycks, various Brueghel's, Durers, Metsys's, Rubens', etc. There are a lot of very famous works that anyone would recognize, but besides that it's simply an amazing and vast collection.

Skip the Louvre and go to the Rodin Museum!

I agree with Barb_in_GA about the large scale French paintings, which I would not have expected to like. I was stunned by a very large Rosa Bonheur in a sort of hallway with a lot of historical paintings like the coronation of Napoleon. Though she is known for very large paintings, the museums I have visited in recent years have mostly had studies and smaller finished paintings.

Thank you all for your suggestions. I would be particularly interested in Napoleon’s Apartments.


Apres Londee, I really like the northern schools and will check website to see which galleries are open on a particular night. I assume that the museum is a little less crowded in the evenings.


Cheapboxofwine (like that handle) I do plan to go to the Rodin on the day after I arrive. Merci…

In the Michelin Green Guide there are lengthy descriptions of wings and galleries that might help you choose.

The Blue Guide Paris is also really good for detailed information on the Louvre (takes you room by room).

When I went to the Louvre in the evening, it was about 6 months after 911 so there weren't many tourists anywhere, and the Louvre was very quiet. We had the Mona Lisa to ourselves and one other couple. But that was unusual.

When I went to the Louvre about 4 years ago during the day, it was obviously very crowded. That's when I went to the Northern School galleries. They were busy but not particularly crowded, at least not to the point of annoyance. Some rooms were very quite and almost empty. Albrecht Durer's Self Portrait as a Young Man is in a little side room by itself and I was alone in there for a long time.

I love the Dutch collection. It's nice to stand in front of two Vermeers completely by myself...

I particularly liked the sculptures. Hermaphrodite on the chaise in white marble still amazes me, so realistic.

We enjoyed the Egyptian collection. If memory serves, it was kind of dark and quieter there than in some of the larger galleries.

These are probably must sees, but we always seek out the Raft of the Medusa, and I always like seeing Liberty leading the People.

We always spend some time in the Crown Jewel Room (room 66, 1st floor, Apollo Gallery, Denon Wing). The cases are filled with some of the most delicate and fabulous works of ancient jewelers and glass makers. My DW, who is a glass artist, especially loves the tiny glass treasures. How some of them have survived the centuries is a mystery to me.

(1) The Apple Store.

(2) The Musee d'Orsay.

My husband, a fencer, was particularly taken with Charlemagne's sword. It looked pretty clean and neat for a working sword to me. It was on the way to Napoleon's apartments.

Big Russ, not to worry. I am planning to go do the d’Orsay on Thursday evening. Might hit the Orangerie on Friday night, early evening actually.

The summer evenings are long and these museums are within walking distance of my hotel on the Rue Dauphene.

Thanks, posters, for all replies.

Someone has already mentioned the 19th C. large French paintings (Delacroix, Gericault, Ingres, David), which I would also recommend. These are amazing paintings.

I also liked seeing the twenty-four Rubens paintings depicting the life of Marie de Medici, Henri IV's queen and the mother of Louis XIII.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marie_de'_Medici_cycle#The_Destiny_of_Marie_de.27_Medici

If you choose to seek these out, it's nice to know something of the history of this woman and her place in this very interesting (to me) period of French history. Of course, apart from the subject matter, the paintings are wonderful examples of Rubens' art.

MaineGG, thank you for suggesting the di Medici cycle by Ruebens. I read through the Wiki article – very informative.

I am somewhat familiar with the di Medici saga. Remembered reading in Ina Caro’s PARIS BY TRAIN a description of the di Medicis’, like so many other French monarchs, who are buried in St. Denis. Caro describes many interesting sites within a day’s journey of Paris, including St. Denis which is within the city limits.

Reubens must have gotten around, eh? Last summer I saw his sumptuously painted ceiling in the Banqueting House in Whitehall – all that remains of the old London palace.

Have you read David McCullough’s THE GREATER JOURNEY: Americans in Paris, 1830-1900? The Louvre plays a major part in the narrative as so many American painters flocked to its galleries to copy and study the masterpieces including Whistler, St. Gaudens, and Sargent.

Before the addition of the Richlieu Wing (with its good a/c) there was a series of rooms with furniture and carpets that had belonged to Napoleon (the first one, not the one of the Napoleon Apartments). We've never been able to locate this collection in the new layouts, or the little room of Marie Antoinette's belongings. That included a lovely little traveling case, and I'd love to see it again.

Underhill, thanks for the suggestion. Don't the French love all things NAPOLEON?

The D'Orsay...oh, if ONLY some of the pieces were as well-illuminated as those In the Louvre but don't let that stop you.

The Louis Napoleon apartments are about as over the top as it gets and if you are at ALL into decoration then that IS the definite "must see" IMO.

The Apple Store...well, to each their own