Enchanted April (What's that you say? "Crazy dear one, it was January.") Don’t fret, for it was oh so very Enchanted April in our minds. DH & Tiff’s Italian Journey

Yippee, Tiff - We are so glad you are back (both from your trip and computer isolation period)

The report is off to a great start....can't wait to read all!

Welcome home

Greeting to you,Tiff! Sounds as if you had a magnificent time in Italy. I read this installment with a big smile on my face. I am looking forward to the rest of the report - especially the Venice part since we are going there in July for the first time - many times to Italy, but never to Venice. Thanks for the report and keep it coming!

I've been waiting for this report--keep it coming!

If you are handing out "iPods", I wouldn't mind having one. But wait, I'd have to have another battery charger. Too much trouble. Nevermind.

Could you write faster?

Hello Tiff!! I was so happy when you told me you were able to post! Know everyone will so enjoy your trip.. I felt so lucky to get to read it first

I can hardly wait for the next installment.

Love your writing style--looking forward to next installment.

an Enchanting Trip Report!! Yay!!
Tiff, welcome home, darlin and keep writing!
Everything is charming and funny and even my Yankee smiled when I read the part about your DH not needing a thing...hmmm.
Please, continue (right away)...

Hi Tiff,

You made me laugh with your fully equiped airline gear!

So glad you had a good time and can't wait to read the rest.

Welcome Back Tiff!!

I laughed out loud when I read about your husband! Mine just needs to look at an airplane and he falls asleep, lol. Here you are, prepared to the hilt, all in the name of sleep -- and then you wait...and wait...nothing.

I can't wait to read the rest of your report.

Welcome back to Fodorville Tiff! I've been looking forward to your report so much and am so glad to hear y'all had a wonderful time

Hi everyone!
Thank you all for your kind words, you guys are the best. I have to dart out to buy a very important birthday but will post again asap, I promise!

Be back soon!

Tiff:
This post was hilarious. I loved it, and was surprised to see that you and I are married to twin brothers. My DH travels just like yours (has few needs, wants for nothing, and I have my "comfort" pack to dig into the second I am seated on the plane. Airplane socks, MP3 player, reading glasses, ear plugs, eye mask, lip balm...it is hilarious really. Sounds like you had a great trip. Italy is my favorite country (of course I have several favorite countries) and we are going back again this june. I am so glad you were able to glean great info from these boards. Fodorites Rule! Wonderful post. Thanks so much for sharing it with us!

The Arrival

It is midday. I am, of course, in a deep, sleep deprived, state of euphoria. We arrive at Palazzo Niccolini (Via dei Servi, 2) and the enchantment begins. It is absolutely lovely, simply oozes history and the location is fantastic. It is a half block from the Duomo. It is very quiet especially for the prime location. I know that we are about to enter our junior suite that has original frescoes on each wall and am excited to see DH’s face, he is completely unaware.

This historic residence dates back to the 14th century. Donatello had a workshop here. A short time ago, 2003 I believe, the present owners decided to renovate one area of their private palazzo, without altering it’s original features and created 2 suites, 1 junior suite and 4 double rooms. There is a lovely drawing room, where breakfast is served, and guests have access to it at any time. They provide internet access on a lap top for guest use in this area. Cocktails available for your enjoyment, honor system. It is a beautiful room. The drawing room is very inviting, it is home to heirloom family pictures. They include a detailed photo album showing the renovation that was done from start to finish.

Our junior suite was the most unique room we have ever or probably will ever have the pleasure of staying in. Each wall decorated with frescoes that had been recently restored. They were fantastic. Gorgeous high beam ceiling (16 feet would be our guess, however our height approximation skills are not the best, see below with David) hardwood floors, four post king size bed, lovely fabrics, fantastic bed pillows and linens, a large wardrobe, two massive windows, sofa and three sitting chairs, large dresser, along with the usual safe, mini-bar/fridge. The bathroom, fitted in marble, was by European standards gargantuan in size. Lovely pedestal sink, shower/bathtub with great water pressure (a feature that my husband never fails to comment on when it is good) heated towel rack, hairdyer with decent airflow, although I did end up bringing my own. The room had new individual thermostats that operated well. I first read of this palazzo through
www.initaly.com and so I booked through them, they are based here in the States. No hidden charges and pricing the same as if I had booked directly. The direct page Palazzo Niccolini through In Italy is: www.initaly.com/hisres/niccoli/niccoli.htm
If you are searching for quaint, unique and historical accommodations as we were, this palazzo would appeal to you greatly.

We decide collectively to walk, try not to sleep, so off we go, to the Accademia.

It is sprinkling, we don’t care. It is quite cold, do we notice? We walk in wonder. We love the streets of Florence. We love the sidewalks. We love looking up and seeing the window boxes. Oh, is it winter, are they empty? I only see geraniums, as red as a fresh ripe Washington apples. We love the shutters, and the doors and the hardware. We love the street lamps. We love people watching. It is east to detect those that are fortunate enough to call this city I love home. Off they dart so fast, are they walking back to work? Are they running home? Are they going to purchase that cute handbag I saw in the window. (hee)

Ahhhhh, yes, so it is off to see David. It is to see the unfinished sculptures. My second visit with David. We have met once before. I will introduce my DH to him, let them have a good chat together. After introductions are made, DH and I sit and stare, oh it is rude I know to stare, but David doesn’t mind. We sit and admire in the exact saw spot I sat six years ago. We speculate as to David’s height. We think at least 18 feet and laugh to ourselves later when back at the palazzo we read he is 13 feet. A good error we say, after all a man never minds being regarded as taller, no? We love to watch the unfinished sculptures crawling out of their stone.

We stop in at Le Botteghe di Donatello (Piazza Duomo 28R - angolo Via dei Servi) We sip Italian wine, we eat. This is a good little spot if you need a bit of food and you are by the Duomo. We are told it can get a bit touristy during high season because of the location, but that the food is good. For us, in low season, it is a comfortable spot close to 'home'. It is a half block from the palazzo and we eat here twice during our five days in Florence. It fits our needs quite well, which at the moment is 'hunger needs to be satisfied now'. It is always wise to have something you can depend on around your accommodations and this is our safe place. My honey satisfies his hunger with delicious mussels and pasta. My risotto with asparagus is fantastic and one of the best risottos I will have in Florence (you may note in the future that my ability to feast on risotto is never ending, I am it’s loyal subject). With the vino is it approximately 40 Euros.

Full and smiling we crawl back to the room, and get settled. We try to stay up as late as possible but give in to sleep quite early. Our hearts are happy.

It is 1:50am when I wake to the sound of "HHHHHeeeeeeyyyyyyyyy, Hey Baby, I want to knowwwwwwww, will you be my girl?" It is coming from the street. Even with the Sharpter Image travel sound machine (set again at ‘rain’ sleeping volume at 7) I can hear their happy, giggling, singing voices. These are happy people, ok, very happy people, ok, very happy Italian youngsters that may have been drinking a bit, and I cannot help but smile. On it goes, "Heeeeeeeeeey, Hey Baby, I want to knowwwwww, will you be my girl?" Then the next lyrics they sing in Italian, and I find myself at 2 in the morning mouthing the words to myself in English while they scream out the same words in Italian, "When I saw you walking down the street, I said that’s the kind of girl I’d like to meet, she’s so pretty, Lord she’s fine, I’m gonna make her mine all minnnnnnnnnnnnnne." It is precious. They are laughing and singing English and Italian lyrics all at the same time loudly, their passion for this song is adorable. It is perfect. I love that it doesn’t irritate me. I know the next question on your minds… Yes, DH slept through the entire Italian Idol episode. You gotta love him.

They next day we wake, and it is as if we have never ate before. Starving does not even begin to explain the hunger. Our lovely breakfast in the drawing room awaits. Coffee for DH, God bless them they have hot tea for me, the most delicious croissants and pastries, fresh fruit, toast, yogurt, all the usual but it is really fresh and quite yummy, much better than the normal continental breakfast. You can also order anything such as eggs and whatnot for a small fee. And we do. We begin each day with this blessing, it stays with us, it keeps us warm.

We have reservations at the Uffizi. I almost want to run to visit my old friend, the Botticelli room. Six years and I can still remember rooms 10-14. No guidebook needed. We walk in awe, we’re getting closer, every corner we turn holds new wonder. We are so lucky. There is the piazza, what a wonderful square to people watch, Piazza dell Signoria. We walk first to say hello to the Arno. There she is honey, do you see her? I had framed some of my photography of the bridges and the Arno for DH as a birthday present three years ago. He recognized her right away, I knew he would.

We wander through all the beautiful art. We have the privilege of enjoying it with few others surrounding us. We adore museums and this is a favorite. The peaceful quiet, the long halls, the high ceilings, the views. To find your favorite work of art and stand beside it’s greatest for as long as you desire. What an honor.

We walk the rest of the afternoon, our feet just traveling wherever they desire. My camera steady and loyal. We stroll along the Arno, and across Ponte Vecchio. We had lunch at a wonderful spot called, Trattoria Anita (Via del Parlascio 2R) It is delicious, our hosts fun. My DH is happy. A wonderful restaurant. Excellent service, wonderful food and wine. Quite cozy. (vino and two courses 25 E)

I should state that every restaurant we went to was highly recommended by posts I read here, from friends of ours or from my previous trip. I should also state that we chose to visit moderately priced, casual dining, as I knew from experience that one does not need to spend a fortune to dine well in Italy. We wanted to pack lightly, as light as one can when traveling in winter. So in doing so, we did not pack a sports coat for DH, no dresses for me, etc. I wore my black Franco Sarto boots (yes, with a heel, gasp, I know) and also my Born walking shoes, DH floated between two pairs of brown leather loafer type walking shoes, they were both good in between shoes. This winter travel required light packing. The 'not too dressy, not too casual' clothing suited us for this journey. No regrets. There are some travel destinations where more formal attire is needed, this was not one of them. I wore a little faux fur black jacket from Anthropologie, DH an outerwear type jacket from REI, both were perfect. Cute with jeans, lovely with dress slacks, flexible, and served us well.

As we walked back to our room, we hear the musical notes of "Have a Holly Jolly Christmas" coming from, we think, DH’s pocket. What is that? Is it coming from his pocket, is it the Italian kids from last night, sleep deprivation no logically allowing us to draw a conclusion? What, where, who? Oh yes, it is our global cell phone, we hadn’t ever heard it ring and this is what it was preset to. Laughing we say buon giorno and greet our caller.

Next installment:
"Leo, precious Leo, please tell us we can just stay here forever..."

Tiff,
Loved the second installment. This is wonderful. I've taken note of your florence dining entries. I've been to Florence many times but want to try out the ones you mention!

What a neat place to stay!!! Thanks for the links and the awesome second installment

Oh, what a great report!

More, please MORE, MORE, MORE!!!

BRAVO!!

Tiff, I always knew you had the gift of gab!!

After a day of stress and work, this was a most needed distraction!

me

Sooo, where's the rest???

I too needed the distraction Tiff as you know. And the Palazzo Niccolini is beautiful as is their Jr. Suite!! Perfect in fact. And I sure agree with you two, one does not need to spend a fortune to eat well in Italy (or drink well either).

No wonder you two were so enchanted with your visit in beautiful Italy, the trip really sounds perfect, right down to the Italians seranading you in the middle of the night! Love the Italians.

As Barbara said, write faster!

A true gem!

DH sleeping through the Italian Idol - too precious! Guess that "rain" worked for him. I'll have to check into that.

Anxiously awaiting your tour of Lucca and also Venice.

This is a great trip report. I can't wait to hear more...hurry!

This is wonderful...keep it coming...and oh boy, am I impressed you remembered the right room numbers...I had to walk for hours to get there it seemed (but the trip there was worth it too!)

fun4all4 ~ you made me laugh with your “computer isolation period”, too cute.

Marianna ~ I will look forward to YOUR trip report, I shall be in desperate need of a Venice fix by then!

Ellenem, OWJ, Barbara, Betsy & hipvirgochick~ thank you, too kind! I’ll keep typing, I promise.

My LoveItaly ~ Bless your

hopingtotravel ~ thrilled you are enjoying my ramblings, thank you.

dear Scarlett ~ your words always brighten my day, glad to return it to you. Happy your DH got a smile too.

Hi SusanEva ~ airline gear in hand and ready for next adventure, all saved from Italy journey.

STW ~ Hi doll, it brings me peace to know I am not alone.

TexasAggie ~ Thank you, I so enjoyed your 12 Days… so I appreciate your comments.

wanderlust5 ~ you made me laugh! You will appreciate one of my traumas was when I went to reapply my favorite lip balm, only to discover it was down to the place where you can’t roll it up any more and I hadn’t packed ‘an extra’. I had to ration for the duration of our journey. Yikes, it was indeed touch and go there for a while, ha.
p.s. You think these dining recs are good, wait until you read about the next one, shhhhhhhhhhhhhh, it’s a secret for a bit more…

FainaAgain ~ doll, thank you very much.

Kopp ~ lemme just tell you, that little machine is fantastic, especially for travel to large cities with street noise, it really did drown out everything with exception to the Italian Idol episode. No machine is perfect.
Oh and so you won’t be disappointed we did a day trip WITH a tour guide by the name of Luca from Hills and Roads not TO Lucca. Details will be forthcoming…

Artlover ~ One can never forget a loyal love, right?

ttt

Our next day begins with my Earl Grey and DH’s coffee. Our lovely breakfast has now become a necessity of the highest order. I never knew eggs could taste so good. Are they done in a special way? Probably not. Are they eggs prepared for us in Italy? Yes, and that is enough.

We walk and wander again. We find our way to Santa Croce this morning. I have never seen the piazza outside so quiet and peaceful, for the last time I was here was in May. We light a candle, and say a prayer. The frescoes are lovely and we stare for the longest time. The floor below us adorned with tombstones brings a certain peace and respect for those before us. The marble facade so beautiful and we sit in the crisp air and admire.

Upon walking across the piazza, we look at our pop-out (love them) map to locate a little restaurant for lunch named Leo’s (Via Torta 7R – www.florencerestaurant.com open for lunch and dinner – closed Mondays – phone 055 210829). I am so very thankful that I read Sammyc’s reply to Sweet Polly’s post on Florence restaurants. We are about to experience the best meal we will have in Italy. We do not yet know that we will return to our beloved Leo’s once more. During our first visit, we are honored guests. On our second visit, we are greeted as family. They will close the next day for a February break, and quite frankly if they had remained open I know we would have ate there yet again. What we discovered was not complicated... the vegetable soup, the flatbread, the ravioli, the seafood, Leo’s cake, but the way it was prepared, the aroma that was the gift before us still makes my mouth water even now, every bite to be savored, every single bite to be savored! This restaurant is a MUST and I beg of you, if you eat anywhere in Florence, this is not to be missed. Our first engagement was 53 Euros (vino, primi, and secondi) Second visit just a titch more due to dessert. I wish we were there now.

Later, as we walk we decide to pop in and have a bit of Limoncello (I think of SusanP as I sip mine). We are the type of travelers that love to take it all in, we do not like to rush, it is amazing how much one can miss by running from site to site. It is a requirement for us to take it slower. See a site, visit a favorite spot, then stop, relax, gaze upon the beauty. What we have discovered through this process is while meals are events in Italy, the ‘stop in for coffee’ is a flash in the pan. In they come, out they go, back and forth. We love this and watch in amazement as we sip our Limoncello. ~In, Ciao, order, down it goes, grazie, Ciao, gone~ We watch them all do this, it is fun. It’s routine. Some need not say anything but Ciao and the man behind the bar knows what is required.

Dinner that night was at a lovely establishment called Pennello’s (Via d Alighieri, 4R – phone 055 29 48 48) DH stated that they had the best clams he has ever had. I had the lemon pasta and it was delicious. It was a nice atmosphere. They made a lovely little fresh orange juice concoction for me, it was delightful.

We rise to greet the next day knowing it will be spent with Luca from Hills and Roads. Our sprinkly drizzle over the past few days has now become rain, but not a downpour. Just enough time to eat breakfast and there is Luca on time to the exact minute at 9:30am, we would return back to Florence at 7:30pm.

We reserved time with Luca solely based upon the reviews here. Were it not for you, we would have most likely not found him. He was one of the best parts of our trip and well worth what we paid. (30/E per hour for two). His new Renault van was clean and nice for a party of two such as us or could easily accommodate a larger group. He was a very safe driver.

I had expressed to Luca via email what our desires on what we would like to see. I also requested his input based on those desires and there you are, we now have an itinerary. It would include:
~Castello Vicchiomaggio, Greve in Chianti
~Montefioralle
~Lunch in San Sano
~Monte Santa Marie, an abandoned village
~Abbey of Monteoliveto Maggiore

This was an absolutely mystical day. Yes, it was raining, but the rain and the fog only added to the experience, and made it all so magical. Seeing the terrain change as we drove from area to area. First so thick and full of trees. Then later rolling green hills, so lovely and without end. The wineries all tucked away and trimmed down for the winter.

Luca was very easy to be around. He was extremely knowledgeable. He spoke of this great land and his love for it and you could listen for hours. It was not tiresome in the least. We felt he wholeheartedly took in what we desired and presented the day. He was the kind of person that you feel you have known forever. He was a pleasure and we felt blessed that he was available during our time in Italy.

Castello Vicchiomaggio ~ A lovely winery that dates back to the 5th century. Delicious, Chianti Classico. They have rental apartments available, and we saw a couple of them. Nice, very clean, lovely views, a pool during the warm weather months. It is said that Leonardo da Vinci was a guest here while he painted the Mona Lisa. www.vicchiomaggio.it

Montefioralle ~ I could weep when I think of how much I loved it here. This little medieval village was exquisite and found myself not wanting to leave. I looked at my DH and he could see it in my eyes. The pictures I shot here are my favorite. The rain falling down the streets of this walled village set the perfect scene.

Monte Santa Marie ~ This was an experience. It was incredible to be wandering around this abandoned village. Wind hollering through an open window. Untended vinery now traveling independently and free from restraint. A quiet, eerie feeling. Although no one was there, you had the distinct feeling you should tip toe through as not to disturb anything. I could see children of the past playing amongst the paths. We each exchanged our own story as to where everyone had drifted to. It reminded me of our “three word story” threads on Fodors.

Dog Guarding His Sheep ~ On our way to the Abbey, we pulled over to take some pix I had barely opened my door only to find a very good watch dog telling me these were his sheep and I needn’t be here interrupting their day. I thanked him for his time and off we went. He scared the h*ll out of me, which I suppose is good when you are on your way to visit an Abbey…

Abbey of Monteoliveto Maggiore ~ What a beautiful Benedictine Abbey. It dates back to the early 1300’s. The gorgeous frescoes running along the larger cloister tell a story with 36 scenes. Luca walked us around to each of them giving interpretation. Small chapels and lovely choir stalls are not to be missed. Also, go upstairs and visit the library, and a back room to admire the pottery they used to mix up pharmaceuticals.

The day was ending and the fog is rolling even in thicker now, it is one of the most breathtaking sights we have ever seen. Had knights rolled in fully suited up on their horses it would not have surprised us one bit. It was truly mystical.

Luca drives the two weary but happy and content souls back to Firenze. And where do the souls request to be dropped off, the palazzo? No, Leo’s. We must visit once more, for tomorrow they will close for holiday.

Next installment:
"The Bargello" or "how DH took a wrong turn…"

Tiff, Wow, am I loving this report! Really looking forward to the next installment.

Oh Tiff, how wonderful!

I smiled when you mentioned our "three word stories", they are fun.

Your descriptive words paint such a incredible image -- I want to go to Florence with my DH.

Looking forward to more...

Hi Robdaddy ~ Thank you kindly.

My STW ~ I think that you either passionately love Florence or have an appreciation for it, there is no in between.
If it sink into your heart and soul, it will always be part of you as it is me.
I hope you go with your DH

Nice trip report, but did you enjoy yourselves?

Tiff, are you a writer? If not, you should be Looking forward to more.

Pausanias ~ Ohhhh, good humor. I love it.

Gomiki ~ Amateur at best, but thank you

Tiff: I AM a writer, and I totally agree with the post that said you should also be a writer. You have the gift!

I especially loved the dog scaring the bejesus out of you enroute to the Abby. Hilarious. Anticipating the next installment..

Tiff, it just gets better and better! Your day with Luca sounds amazing. I felt like I was there with you in the atmospheric rain... now that is good writing!

Oh dear Tiff, I told everyone they would love, be enthralled, with your trip report. And I was correct. And of course you know where I wish I was right at the moment.

I agree. Wonderful report and your writing bring it all to life.

What a wonderful trip report! I can actually imagine being there....of course, that is until I look up and see three co-workers coming to me! DH and I are going back to Italy in about three weeks, and your report has me aching for it! Can't wait to read the rest!

Tracy

Montefioralle was a short walk from an agriturismo (Podere Torre, highly recommended!) we stayed at several years ago. The dinner we ate in Montefioralle at la Castellana (I think that is the name) was our favorite of that trip.

I can totally picture our evening walk down there and our later "waddle" back to our cozy lodgings...ahhhhhhhhh! Thank you for the memory!

Hi Tiff!!

Thank you so much for your wonderful trip report! You SHOULD be a writer, if you're not, because you definitely have a way with words.

I love your trip report, and laughed out loud at the beginning. My husband always falls asleep before the plane takes off and I'm just like you, with all my necessary paraphanalia and still barely fall asleep. (Although last time, AMBIEN really helped!)

We will be in Florence again in June, and we'll definitely try Leo's. Sounds wonderful.

Can't wait to hear about the Bargello. Missed that last time and am really looking forward to it this time!

Keep writing!!
Dina

Tiff, I am reeling -- first of all, from having been of use with the seatguru recommendation, then from your post about Pal.zo Niccolini, which I though I alone had discovered, then from the Florence/ Tuscany observations and recommendations.

Only 6 days -- yikes -- until we'll be in Italy (first Rome, then Venice, then dear Tuscany, specifically Barberino Val d'Elsa).

I'm madly printing and photo-copying, among which photocopies will be your thoughtful, informative posts....And I'm adding Montefioralle to our itinerary.

Wow - wonderful writing, wonderful trip - I feel like I'm there with you, mists and dog and wandering vines and all. Thanks for the links, I now have the Palazzo Niccolini bookmarked! Can't wait for Venice - although it may be dangerous for me to read your report, it only took a three-hour peek for me to fall in love with it (her?).

This couldn't have come at a better time -- I'm off to Florence and Rome next week! I'm putting Leo's into my restaurant file.

We also booked Luca, so I'm glad to hear more good things about his tours.

You have a wonderful way with words... what a fun report!

Tiff -- Your day with Luca sounds positively wonderful. When you visited Castello Vicchiomaggio was it for a full wine tasting tour or...? Can you please post Luca's contact information? Also, we'll be staying in Santa Croce in May so we'll have every excuse to try Leo's at least once. I can't wait!

Thank you wanderlust, TXAggie, LoveItaly & SeaUrchin ~ a bouquet of thanks for you!


Tracy ~ I was so laughing at your “three co-workers coming to me”. Been there, doll, I agree it is tough indeed to switch from splendor to the work game face!

Annabelle2 ~ Montefioralle was splendid, wasn’t it? I adored it so. It was so peaceful and quiet while we were there, I wonder if it always stays that way… I hope you get to return someday.

Hi Dina ~ There seems to be a common thread here with the guys sleeping and us wide awake, huh? Lol Enjoy your June trip, is it right around the corner. Leo’s is a must!

Tedgale ~ How wonderful! It looks like my posting abilities came back just in time. I am thrilled you got to see your ‘name in lights’ with my thanks for seatguru before your departure, I cannot tell you how helpful that website was to us. I am so excited for your trip and will look forward to reading your trip report. Arrivederci friend, and best wishes!

Thursdaysd ~ you are cute with your mists and dog and wandering vines comment, lol, it reminded me a wonderful old Peter, Paul and Mary song.

Amarena ~ Arrivederci to you, too! How exciting! And yes, you must go to Leo’s. While we were there we would see some people glancing at the menu outside before coming in, I literally had to restrain myself not to go out and tell them they must enter, that they would thank me later. The ravioli aroma-something something was the BEST, just make sure it has the aroma part in it. And Leo’s cake a must. Enjoy!

And last but not least hipvirgochick ~ (by the way I have a hipvirgobrother)
Luca’s contact information is as follows:
www.hillsandroads.com or email at info@hillsandroads.com
Cell numbers on his business card: 328 8379272 or 335 8336988
Regarding Castello Vicchiomaggio, we were there quite early in the morning, so we did not have a full wine tour, though it was offered to us. Instead she showed us the property and the apartments available for rent. They were very clean, simple but lovely, great views. She was a nice lady. Luca was incredible and worth every Euro! Leo’s, well, I wish I could have stayed and washed his dishes for meals alone, lol.

Isn’t it always the way that you never visit the sites closest to home? Although we are a half block away from the Duomo, we have not yet crossed her threshold. Gazed and admired many times from afar, even taken pictures close up of her doors but that is all. Silently we know we have been waiting for sunshine. We know all her glorious color will be more distinct with it, but when Italy hands you rainfall, you must choose to see the rainbows.

We step inside and my DH says out loud, “Wow.” His ‘wow’ actually echoes throughout her like a freight train and I have one of those private married giggles. His amazement is childlike and so very precious and I love him so much. He loves the stunning color of the stained glass, the interior of the dome, the vast ceiling. We again light a candle and say a prayer. He loves it here and not unlike the look at gave him at Montefioralle, I know he is at peace.

We know our next step is that within the Campanile. We will walk each of the 414 steps, even with my bad left knee, to see Florence from a bird’s eye. We imagine every terra cotta rooftop and the church steeples. I can see all the way to the Arno and the green hills beyond. DH can already see above the streets we have admired for days from below. We begin and I cannot believe how teeny tiny the staircase is, claustrophobia pours over me in massive amounts but I press on. Luckily my persistence pays off and after a hundred steps or so, it open up into a open floor plan where you can take a picture or rest for a bit. I breathe deeply and win this battle over my good friend Mr. Claustrophobia, back down you go kind sir, I am going to the top!

We admire and climb. Every stranger we meet says hi and we all smile and giggle with one another. It is a partnership among strangers, we can do it, we will make it, those on the way down giving that powerful nod that allows you to know it can be done. We stop and take a picture by the bell, the dome of the Duomo in the background. We offer to a take picture for a lovely young couple and they are grateful. We are travelers; strangers but friends. As we step out on the ledge that circles the top of the bell tower, it is so windy that I can’t believe it. I am thinking the wicked witch will be zipping by on her bike with the stolen Toto in her basket at any moment. Had there not been protective fencing circling us, I may have only peeked out for a moment rather than gazing for so long. It is better than I have imagined. I see terraces filled with children’s toys. Potted plants and chairs reminding me that this isn’t just a city for us to admire, it is home to many. Terra cotta rooftops everywhere like stepping stones. The people below so tiny. The tourists across from us and a bit higher on the ledge of the dome smile over at us and wave. It is beautiful. Who needs the sun?

DH counts every step on the way down and speaks to me of our progress, “We have gone down 113 steps…” “Oh, we just hit 234” “314, only 100 left until touchdown…” We see a nice couple at this point and he informs them excitedly, “You just hit the 100th step!!!!” The lady, of a certain age, says through laughter and smiles, “Oh, great…!” with beautiful, precise sarcasm and we all laugh.

Every time we walk somewhere, we try to take a different route, zip down a calle here, turn to a street foreign to us there. It is fun, and we enjoy the adventure.
We have 3:30 reservations for the Secret Passageway Tour at Palazzo Vecchio, so we have just enough time to grab a bite to eat and visit the Bargello.

We enjoy the Bargello. It is lovely in size and we love the bronze sculptures. DH is exuberant when we enter a room with armor and swords galore. He loves it. We now have explored each of it’s 3 floors. As we depart from the third floor, we see a woman enter through a door with the words “toilette”. There is also a ‘handicapped equipped symbol’ but nothing else. We see her take a key off a hook to the right of the door, smile at us and enter. We decide as good travelers do, never to pass up the opportunity to use a bathroom. We sit and wait for her to finish. I let DH go first. I stay sitting and enjoy the architectural design of the hall and staircase as I wait. Moments later I hear an alarm. I actually say out loud, “Nahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh” and have that look on my face that a dog gets with a tilted head and perked ears as if to say, “Huh”.
The alarm is still alarming, and I feel like the volume is going higher and higher though it is not. Still no DH from behind the door, still no alarm shutting off but now I have three Italian women running towards me shouting words that go beyond my introductory to Italian phrase cheat sheet. I stand up and as I do, DH comes out from beyond the door. The look on our faces is priceless and will forever be burned in my memory. The gallery guard ladies are repeatedly yelling “No permisso, no permisso” or something along those lines. All I can say in my panic is “Scusi, scusi, scusi” Already in my head, I am planning our getaway. I see the elevator across the walkway, quickly grabbed DH, pushed the down button and miraculously the door opens. I don’t know what good thing I have done in a past life to make this occur but we go with it. This elevator is ancient and for some mad reason was there to greet us with lightening speed. It provided a quick retreat out of Dodge, straight away and fast.

When we are safely outside, DH and I glance at one another with that ‘deer in headlights look’ and time stands still. Then we just burst out laughing. “What happened??????” I ask. He said after he was done using the facilities he couldn’t find the button to flush, he looked and looked and said “Baby, it just wasn’t there.” Now we have been in Florence five days now, so he knows about the white plastic plates on the wall, the metal arm on the floor, all flushing operating features have been noted. He goes on to say, “I just couldn’t find it, so I pressed only button that was there, but it was a red button and right when I did, it was a total Homer Simpson moment, I actually heard that "Doooohhhhhhh" noise he makes, and I got the h*ll out of there.”

Now let it be said that as we exited the Bargello, no one on the first floor was in Code Mode, so I do believe (please let me just hold on to this) that it was might have been an alarm strictly reserved for the third floor alone???? Possibly one of those localized alarms???? Maybe an “I’ve fallen and I can’t get up” kind of alarm?

Onward we press to our secret passageway tour, traumatized yes; daunted, no.

It is a nice private tour, just us and a nice couple from England. While we were in a private room that you will go into admiring the painting on the ceiling. There is a little door at the end that is slightly open and goes into what looks like a ballroom. From out of nowhere tourists from the other end of a tiny door begin to take pictures of us, snap, snap, snap, the paparazzi won’t quit and I now cannot see because of the flashes. While our guide shoos the wrongful flashing tourists away, I whisper to DH, “Apparently the passageway isn’t as secret as they would like us to believe.”
We enjoyed the tour greatly, it was fun and our tour guide was delightful.

Next installment:
Venice anyone?

This just gets better and better! Every word and phrase is a masterpiece.

.."in they come, out they go, back and forth." Such is the way, one gulp and they're done. On the go all the time.

"When Italy hands you rainfall, you must choose to see the rainbows." Beautiful words to live by.

Would you do the secret passageway tour of the Pz. Vecchio again?

My trip to Florence, Rome, Venice is slowly approaching (3 weeks). Your report will be reading material on the plane, over and over. Leo's was already on the list but now so many others to add.

No gelato yet?

Thanks, Tiff. As you can tell, I'm really enjoying this.

Grazie! Ciao!

Hi Kopp ~ Yes, we would do the Secret Passageway tour again. (011 39 055 2768224) We really enjoyed it. I think if you were short on time I would not choose it over some of other main hitters, but if you had the time and wanted to do it, it would be lovely.

If you don't have time, while you are walking through Piazza della Signoria, peek in the open door of the palazzo to view the inner courtyard that is open to the public at no fee.

The gelato. Ahhhhhh, we loved the gelato. I think pistachio was my favorite.

How exciting that your trip is just three short weeks away, it will go fast! I greatly appreciate your compliments, I know I cherished every report, especially those that I read in the month before we left. Certainly adds to the excitement, doesn't it?

Now we can look forward ot your trip report!

Safe journey, T.

I think the Great Il Gabinetto Incidenza will keep me in stitches for years to come. That was priceless. I know what you mean about the step counting and your DH's progress reports both up and down le scale. We have had the same experiences at Sacre Couer and at the the Dome at St. Peter's. Your pithy humor kills me and I love every minute of it, as it sounds like me!

I have been to Florence 5 times and have never done the Secret Passageway Tour. I have put this on my list for our upcoming trip in June. I love finding new adventures and things we hadn't discovered on previous trips!

Thanks so much for taking the time to recount all these wonderful moments. We all really appreciate you and your wit.

Bravissima!

Tiff, Florence has never been high on my list (please forgive me, fans of Florence) but your report has changed that for me. I can almost see it through your eyes. I was in Venice last May and it was magic...can't wait to see your vision of Venice.

Tiff, thank you for a beautiful report. I must admit that Florence did not enter my soul the way it did for you (who can explain chemistry) but I feel transported to a beloved place by your magical tale.

BTW, I have the same sound machine and it really does block out most street noise. I like the "surf" option best, although my cat goes crazy for the wind chimes~

Tiff, I have had a lot going on and haven't time to read much on Fodors for a few days. What a pleasure to come back to find this lovely report! I'm so wanting to go back to Italy, and you're making that worse!

Glad you enjoyed that Limoncello. I've been rationing the two bottles I brought back. Also so glad you enjoyed Luca, I was probably one of those who recommended him. Can't wait to hear the rest about Venice!

I've been looking forward to your report, Tiff, and enjoying every minute. Your Florence jaunts brought back many memories of our trip there.

I also laughed at your DH and the alarm at Bargello. I once did the same thing in a lovely French restaurant in St. Martin, except I shut off power to the entire place. Of course, I came out of the bathroom acting like I, too, wondered why the restaurant was plunged into darkness.

Now...onward to magical Venezia! Can't wait!

Tiff, is this the sound machine you're referring to:

http://tinyurl.com/gt6yc

Hi kopp ~ Yes, that is it. We LOVED it. On the plane I used it with earbuds, in the hotels we put away the buds and had it on for both of us. It has many nice features. It is small and lightweight. A good buy!

Hey Statia! I am glad my DH is not alone, dear. (Must say although I am getting ahead of myself that we both thought of you fondly as we approached the vaporetto landing.) You're such a doll.

Cin, cin SusanP, cin, cin!

mvor ~ Wasn't that a good purchase?!? Glad you like yours too.

gomiki ~ you are kind and I am humbled.

wanderlust5 ~ thank you for ALL of your generous comments, you have made it very fun for me. I appreciate it greatly.

LOL...I love it!!

I can picture your great escape! Moments you and your DH will certainly never forget, Tiff!

Dear Tiff, What a wonderful report. I love your writing and like Gomiki, I wish I could head over there right now!!!! Welcome back!

Tiff, I wouldn't travel now without it. I actually have the iPOD Compatible version and the speaker sounds pretty good. I was just in Rome and the apt. we rented didn't have a stereo so this was really great to have along...There's nothing like listening to Dean whilst sipping wine in Roma!

Kopp, here's the iPod Compatible version:

http://tinyurl.com/o828m

mvor,
that's pretty cool! I have a brand new MP3 thingie that I'm trying to figure out how to work, to get it all loaded up for my upcoming trip. So I'd just be able to plug this in and have music in my room? Guess I have to go to the mall tonight!!

Topping to bring Tiff's report back up to the top so other's can enjoy it!

Tiff dear, I can hardly wait for the next installment.

Thanks Mimi! I have been trying my best to get over to your Paris trip report! Soon, soon, I am excited to read of our your journey.

STW ~ Lol, you got that right!

LoveItaly ~ thanks for the top, sweetie!

We wake and this time when I open the interior massive doors on our gorgeous massive windows, I see Warmth does come to those who wait. I peek to the left as far as my eyes can turn and see the sunshine gleaming on the dome of the Duomo. It is bright and beautiful.

We begin breakfast and for the first time we are not the only guests dining on this magnificent feast. A lovely British couple beside us and I get the feeling they are in Florence on business. They appear to be journalists though I do not know this for certain. I can’t help but enjoy their accents in between our own words as DH and I visit over breakfast. Reality is here, it is time for us to leave my old friend. Venice right around the corner helps heal this wound.

As we settle up our bill, they are having problems with the credit card machine. The nice British gentleman overhears and gallantly steps in to rescue us. He requests that they run his card as well. We thank him and tell him he doesn’t have to do this and he says, “Oh, please, it’s just a credit card, let’s give it a run, shall we?” His card won’t go through either. He asks us where we are headed to and when we tell him he replies with a hearty “Brilliant!” God how I love enthusiastic people, do they know what a pleasure it is to be in their presence? Do they have a clue how intoxicating it is?

In gracious form, the staff decide to ‘let us go”. They will figure it out later, and call us if there is a problem. I give them our cell number and the number at Locanda Orseolo in Venice. Off we go.

For the first time, we don our sunglasses. The sun feels good on us as we say good-bye… for now.

As we arrive at the train station, everything flows. I have the print outs of our tickets that were purchased online previous to our departure. We watch the departure board and in minutes see which track our train will arrive on. We listen for a track change, just in case, until we see our train pull in. We move to the track, find our car, find our seats and are grateful for the small 22” inch suitcases we both possess. Old lessons learned well, pack light, pack light, pack light.

There is a nice Italian couple in our designated seats by the window, but not a big deal, all is good and the sun is out, DH and I just take the seats next to them. It is a lovely train ride. The green, rolling hills are simply gorgeous with the sunshine bouncing off them. The train is smooth and quite enjoyable. The seats large and comfy. I read my book. DH reads his paper. We are content.

We arrive at the station, and DH begins to sing, “SSSSaaaaannnnnta Luuuuuuucia, Santa Luuuuuuuuuuuuuucia” and this goes on for two full days even though I tell him through laughter we’re in Venice not Naples. Sometimes he sings Santa Maria and I just roll my eyes and smirk, I know he is testing me to see if I am paying attention. “Ok, Enrico, let’s find ourselves a water taxi.”

We step up to the sea and know we are entering another land.

The water taxi company that Locanda Orseolo (www.locandaorseolo.com) has recommended is Venezia Taxi. We step aboard and I just shake my head and smile with my DH, again I cannot believe we are here. The sun is shining so brightly that color is reflecting everywhere. Our vampire eyes from the last several days have not failed us, are adjusting well and we are pleased. Who can ask for anything more?

The little canals carry us through this wonderland to our Locanda. The color of the water, so blue and green all at the same time. The structures that surround us are breathtaking. Column upon column of windows everywhere. The gothic design. Going under our first footbridge, I lean over and give DH an innocent kiss on the cheek. I find it so easy to imagine we are in another century. Time has no meaning. We seem to arrive in a flash, but I now know it was much longer. My heart is beating with excitement. As we pull up to Locanda Orseolo, I look at the taxi driver and he nods. I knock quietly on the water taxi window to find Francesco and Bruno greeting us like close members of their family. “Ciao, Tiff” “Ciao, DH” Welcome to Venice, come in to your Locanda, come in.” We climb through this precious little door to a sight that is heavenly and so quaint it melts your heart. Gorgeous wood beams, Venetian red everywhere, Murano glass chandeliers and light fixtures, the stone casing the doorways, beautiful rich fabrics and thick lovely area rugs, lovely art, nothing is missed, but with all of this it is not what you notice first. The warmth in their smiles, and genuine welcoming in their eyes is far beyond any greeting that we have encountered. Bruno (who was recently blessed with a baby girl) has our bags out of the taxi and up to our rooms before we can even blink an eye. Everything you have read about Locanda Orseolo is true.

This is more than a business to them, this is a life choice, they are there in early morning and do not leave until nightfall. Matteo & Bruno were raised by the sea and grew up in their Mother and Father’s hotel. They paid attention. What they all provide is a home away from home, with caring and grace. We later meet Luigi who immediately wants us to refer to him by his nickname, Gigi. Next we are honored by Barbara’s presence. She greets us with a hug and kisses on each cheek. There is a special place for those that have such light in their eyes. She is adorable and you feel instantly like she is a long lost friend. They are friendly and helpful without being intrusive. A fine line. We wish them much success and much happiness, they are special people.

We climb the lovely staircase to Pierrot (room 25). As we enter, Bruno does not allow us to tip him, he literally backs away, and tells us it is his pleasure to assist, no tipping. Our room is beautiful. The yellow gold draperies and bedding are bright and cheerful, rich in texture. The wardrobe and desk are that of heavy gorgeous woods. The hardwood floors shiny and clean. The décor beautiful.

I float straight across the room to one of our windows and open it up. The chilly, crisp, Venetian air greets me though I do not feel cold. I love that there are no screens, and I adore the outside window shutters, no wonder why everyone is so happy here, they must get some serious sleep with those sturdy window shutters! Our room is positioned so that there is a canal below us and one straight in front of us, we are on a corner. What I see is dreamlike. The pink colors of the structures across from me. The street lamps that take me back to another land and remind me of my Florence, only here many are attached to the buildings for there are no streets. A beautiful footbridge to my left and one in front of me. I giggle as a tourist traveling past us in a gondola smiles up at me and waves saying, “Buon giorno, how good to see you today!”

We leave to have ourselves a walk, find nourishment, and greet Venezia. With a recommendation from our wonderful hosts for a light lunch, we head over to Osteria San Marco and are blessed with an amazing, hearty Barley Soup. It is fantastic and warms us well.

As I researched Venice, thread after thread, one common thing that everyone seemed to state was that you need to just walk and wander in Venice. How right you were. Walk, get lost, find your way again, press on, there are no clocks, there is no agenda, a little treasure awaits you at every turn, so go, enjoy, relax, bask in her glory. We had little use for our pop-out map, and the only time we did glance at it, it was to locate a restaurant that you recommended.

We begin our magical discovery. You feel whimsical, childlike, free. We wander over to San Marco. We are still so grateful for the sunshine and the warmth it provides. It is crisp and warm all at the same time. It is to us, perfect walking weather. We will need our sunglasses for the remainder of our journey.

We walk across (well as ‘across’ as I will allow, I have bird issues but try to pack them in the claustrophobia suitcase whenever possible) the square, and the sun hitting the façade of the cathedral is amazing. The gold sparkles off it like diamonds in water. We pass by the Doge’s Palace and I tell DH that we have the secret itineraries tour booked tomorrow.

Our slow “walk” has now become an easy stroll, it will stay at this pace for the next five days.

The afternoon passes by and when we glance at DH’s watch we cannot believe the time. Slightly we come out of our Venice Coma to realize we are hungry. We are now over by the Rialto bridge, but it is only about 6, so many recs, such as Alla Madonna are not open yet. We take a chance with the least intrusive restaurant by the bridge. They just smile and say hello as we pass, quite unlike many of the others that have a more hustle like manner. Terrazza Sommariva (Rialto – del Riva Vin 731) We sit outside with a lovely view of the water, heat lamps to keep us warm, I think of P_M. Dinner is surprisingly quite good for a spur of the moment chance and very reasonable. Our waiter very sweet.

We ‘stroll’ back to our hotel with the moonlight to guide us. It is simply enchanting. It is Venice.

Next installment:
New friends, old wine, and the second DH eye spies a gondola we are on one…

Thank you Tiff, I needed to read something uplifting this evening. Beautiful.

What a great way to wake up in the morning.

I so loved your wonderful descriptions of Florence which I adored.

But, I am even more in awe of your Venice descriptions as we will be in Venice for the first time in June. And, we are staying at Locanda Orseolo. I cannot wait to visit this magical city.

So, pretty please....more Venice

While I was reading your Florence chapters, I was really hoping that were going to be staying at Orseolo in Venice...so happy to see that you did. Orseolo is pure magic. As you say - everything you hear is true...but it still can't prepare you for experiencing it firsthand.

We have stayed in #15 twice, so I am familiar with your view (assuming you were one floor above). My first view out our window was also of a gondola passing by, and the gondolier tipped his hat at us. Those first moments at Orseolo will always stay with me.

Love your report.

Goodie!I am staying at the Locanda Orseolo in ten days-can't wait!

Wow!!
WHat a wonderful post, so full of life and fun, your post has made me smile for the first time in what has been a very tough emotional week for me. Thankyou Tiff, your a gem, always stay that way.

Tiff - if you are not already a travel writer, I wholeheartedly suggest you consider it as an occupation. Your writing is sublime. After reading your post, I have this unbelieveable urge to return to Italy (once again)...and Venice in particular. Thank you for a wonderful post. I wait...much like Oliver Twist holding his bowl and saying in a voice trembling with expectation, " More Please."

(donning flame-proof suit)

I never before had a huge interest in visiting Italy. It's on my list, but not high... however, now that I've read your reports, I'm delighted with the idea, and would love to go. Florence and Venice were the places I'd visit anyhow, and perhaps Milan... northern Italy rather than southern. Thank you for inspiring our next trip

I agree with those that say your writing is fantastic! Lyrical, poetic, yet informative and helpful.

(removing flame-proof suit)

The flame-proof suit was for those who will blast me for not caring about going to Italy

GreenDragon ~ doll, The more we pull over into Camp Italy, the better, lol, welcome! May I be the first to buy you a glass of good Italian vino!

Kamahinaohoku ~ Aloha! Thank you very much, I have always enjoyed your advice on our other favorite paradise.

Lucielou ~ I am honored, grazie. I hope your week gets better very soon!

MassageDiva ~ Enjoy, enjoy, enjoy, Locanda Orseolo is beyond exceptional! Also, I have a couple other good restaurant recs, so I will keep pounding away at my keyboard…

Hi beanweb24 ~ You are correct, I believe it is directly below 25, wasn’t that a phenomenal view? So glad you had the good fortune to enjoy LO twice! Oh the joy.

Fun4all4 ~ My first reply welcoming me home and making me laugh. I feel like you have been with me since the beginning, LOL. Thank you.

STW ~ and this too

I think the Italian Goverment should give you an award, for boosting tourism!

...I'd settle for free gelato...

Thanks, Mimi

I am a writer, and in fact the first to admit I am a writing snob, and your writing is so compelling. I am totally transfixed when I read your descriptions and the way you put things together. I was totally "in" Venice with you and "Enrico" (giggling) - this is such a fantastic report. You have all of our rapt attention.

Bravissima, Tiff. Mi piace moltissimo il sua storia!

Tiff, with my upcoming trip next week, I am thrilled to hear that you were able to eat outside (with the heat lamps.) I LOVE sitting outside, with all the great people-watching in the Italian cities. I assumed we would have to eat inside all week. Was it possible to sit outside in Florence as well -- did you notice places there with heat lamps?

I am in the midst of finalizing my itinerary with Luca, and may copy of couple of stops from yours -- Vicchiomaggio and Montefiorelle. I'd love to stop at Monte Oliveto Maggiore, but it won't be feasible with their closing times on Sunday.

Oh wanderlust, how you do make me laugh and warm my heart, thank you.

Amarena ~ Oh please do tell Luca we said hello, although he would not know us by "DH & Tiff" lol. But if you tell him 'the couple that was dropped off at Leo's rather than their palazzo' said hi, he will know...

We did see establishments with heating lamps in Florence, mainly near the squares. And it did not surprise me, because after all that lovely P_M said we would!
In Venice, by the Rialto, they have lamps and what I would describe as plastic coverings around some of their outdoor seating, the ones more off the water. But they also had tables out in the open that also had lamps. The plastic wrapping kind of flipped out DH (LOL) so we only went that route once. He too is haunted by our old pal Mr. Claustrophobia every now and again.

It was a little too "John-Travolta-boy-in-the-plastic-bubble" for him.

We wake from best night of sleep since our arrival in Italy. We believe that it only took about six days (ha) to adjust. We know, due to good reviews, that we are about to encounter the “Matteo” breakfast and like little kids get ready as fast as we can. We are greeted by a cheery, angelic Barbara and my Earl Grey and DH’s espresso are brought in a flash. (Every morning that follows she thoughtfully remembers the day before and graciously delivers ‘our usual’.) I patiently listen as Barbara asks if she can bring us omelets, chocolate crepes, or scrambled eggs, knowing FULL well that the crepes are a must because of the many Fodorites that have gone before me and reported back. She shows us the buffet and invites us to help ourselves while DH’s omelet and my crepes are prepared.

Now, it will be hard for me to discuss the exquisite charm of said crepes without going into withdrawal, but I adore you all and for that reason ALONE I will begin... The delicate texture is so thin that they melt in your mouth, but as this occurs, the rich, delicious chocolate followed by a cookie crunch is more pleasing than one can even hope for, DH sees the look on my face and he is all over that immediately and I, being the generous, loving spouse that I am, share. My only regret is that we didn’t have more mornings to share with Matteo and Barbara and the crepes. I think of that post that read, “I get to spend one whole week at Locanda Orseolo and say to myself, “you have no idea…”

I fall in love with every footbridge we pass over and somehow DH never tires of hearing me say, “Oh, look honey, look!” My camera is firing away in record speed and is in desperate need of a vacation itself.

We have reservations for the Secret Itineraries tour (011 39 041 520 9070) at the Doge’s Palace. There are several Americans with us on this tour that had been skiing and popped down to Venice for the day. We ask them how the skiing was and they said, “Great, fresh powder, though the legs are burning just a little bit.” Those Italian mountains, I can only imagine. We begin the tour and sadly it is difficult to hear our guide because of the large group and the outside sounds. However we are patient and it pays off. Once we are inside, into the real secret part, lol, the noise factor decreases tremendously and we can hear her fine. DH is getting into it. The whole jail business and Casanova, cells here, cells there, escape routes, he is getting that glossy “Armor & Sword look” he had at the Bargello and I figure as long as I keep him out of unauthorized restrooms we will be fine. We feel bad because there is one guy that is 6’6 and has not made clearance into many of the smaller areas, but he too is patient and it eventually opens up into rooms that have higher ceilings.

We enjoy the tour greatly and yes, would do it again, but for reasons probably obvious to you, but not to us at that moment, we are being drawn back to Venice’s outside charm like a powerful magnet. The only time you will see us inside again other than to eat or sleep is when we visit the Guggenheim and the quaint hall honoring Vivaldi.

As we cross back over the square we decide to follow our Florence walk plan and take a different path. The first thing DH sees is “our” gondola. Immediately he wants to place me on one and off we float. The sun is shining and the water is such an aquamarine blue that it looks like bed of rippling, baby blue Easter Eggs. I never expected the water to be this blue. Our gondolier is wonderful, and I ask him to take us through the little canals as well as the Grand and he agrees. I am blessed with some of our most enchanting pictures of Venice during this gondola ride. Being so low in the water you cannot help but take a good picture. As we float along we are about to travel under a footbridge when I glance up and at the same time, we see each other; the nice Italian couple from the train are crossing the footbridge. I smile at her and she smiles at me, as she yells “Ciao, Ciao” excitedly while at the same time grabbing her husband’s arm to show him “us”. He is clueless and we are all laughing. Finally he sees what she is pointing at and now all four of us are saying “Ciao, Ciao”.

The rest of the gondola ride is beautiful. The Grand Canal was like an out of body experience. Seeing the Rialto Bridge for the first time in daylight in a gondola transcended us through time. A Postcard perfect, Wish You Were Here moment.

If you find yourself questioning whether you should take a gondola ride or not, please do. And view it as though you have the eye’s of a child.

As we walk again we find ourselves at the doorstep of Harry’s Bar. This was the beauty of Venice, every time you turn a corner you find yourself saying, “Oh sayyyyy, I know THIS place, let’s go in!” And the spontaneous adventure continues. The interior of Harry’s Bar is fun and cozy and I imagine Hemingway to be there. We sit up at the bar and I tell DH we should order two Bellinis. “He looks at me, nods and without pause states, “Two Bellinis it is.” I whisper “That is what you do when you are at Harry’s” and wink at him. It is yummy and light and the perfect afternoon treat.

When we arrive back at our Locanda, we decide to get cleaned up for dinner and have a glass of wine in the sitting room. When we are there sipping a fine old wine that Matteo selected for us, two lovely gentleman are there typing away on their laptops. We later exchange pleasantries. As we walk to dinner, Marco Polo (C. Bissa S. Antonio, south of the Rialto and Campo San Bartholomew) we bump into the two of them along with one gent’s wife only to discover we are all heading for the same restaurant. They ask us to join them and we don’t want to intrude but when they insist we do willingly. S, D & B are delightful and we get along fantastically. The food is superb. We exchange travel stories and laugh and laugh. The stories lead to funny and sometimes somewhat embarrassing travel tales and when DH begins to tell of our visit to the Bargello, we are all in tears laughing. I am grateful that the hosts were wise enough to seat this motley crew in the back of their restaurant. It is fulfilling evening on every level, and new friends are made.

Next installment:
The little dish

Oh Tiff...what a wonderful report! I am planning what was a 'group' trips with about 9 coworkers, but has now (thankfully) dwindled to only 4 of us. We will be in Rome and Tuscany and plan to go to Venice for an overnight stay.

I have spent hours upon hours reading posts, have made pages of notes and printed reams of things, but your post has intrigued me the most! You are a beautiful writer, you have raised the 'post-writing' bar, and I doubt I will read a trip report as grand as yours!

Keep those installments coming, and please forgive my thievery as I make scribbles and 'notes-to-self' on things to see and do!

Dearest Pantelia ~ are you kidding, no forgiveness is necessary, the only reason this trip report exists is due to the fabulous information I received here and therefore was able to create a fun filled adventure for my DH and I.

We all here share one common bond... Our passionate, never ending obsession to visit new lands.

What good company I share!

Cut, paste, pass it along and toast the Fodorites during your journey as DH & I did.

By the way, I am grateful your large group has dwindled down to a Party of Four. I think you will have a much more enjoyable experience.

Tiff - what a delight this is! I cannot begin it without my vino as that puts me in just the right mood. I can pretend, can't I?

We have been to Venice several times and have never opted to take a gondola ride. They seem so....well, so touristy! But after your review, how can we resist?

I have not made a reservation for the "Secret Itineraries" tour yet. Guess I was thinking mid-March wouldn't be necessary. Do you think it wise to reserve ahead?

smooch!

Hi there kopp ~ a toast to you and your vino, hee!

I will say that while we were there, a very low season, our SI Tour was at full capacity. So if it is important to you, I would call ahead and book it.

I cannot wait until I get to read your report! Won't it be fun to look forward to doing something new (gondola) even though you have been there so many times before. I think that if you went at night it might have a less touristy feel to it, and if it was a moonlit night think of how breathtaking the light off the water would be. Just the thought of the quiet and peacefulness sends me back there. I loved the night time there.

Ah, the writing is still wonderful, and Venice sounds magic. Since I can only really afford to go in the off-off season I'm so pleased to hear that you enjoyed it in January! Are you dressed in long-johns and fleeces or more "regular" clothes?

Thanks thursdaysd and hello ~ We wore regular clothes with warm jackets, gloves and a scarf for me.

Layering is the key, along with a jacket this isn't too bulky but very warm. Stylish but very comfortable.

I had a range of three types of tops: turtlenecks, long sleeve, and a couple short sleeve shirts, and even in January if you can believe it I wore all three of the styles. Venice, where we thought it would be cooler, is when I wore the short sleeve tops.

Michael Starrs has shirts that I adore because they are warm without being bulky, you can find them at Nordstrom's, or online depending on where you live, and you can pack several without taking up a lot of room in your suitcase.

I think for winter travel a jacket that you really love is key. It must be warm and then if you get a lovely sunny day you can wear a lightweight top underneath. It is helpful if the jacket blocks wind.

As I have mentioned, we live in Minneapolis so we were prepared for cold weather. If you can believe it, my black faux fur I got from Anthropologie this year is warmer than any of my North Face down jackets, it is was bizarre. Plus, it was dressy enough that I felt stylish even with jeans. Additionally, I wore a warm scarf that I could tie up tight when needed.
I should stop now, ha. I could talk about the clothing FOREVER.

Let me know if you have any other questions, and go in that low season, doll. You will love it!


p.s. I should also add that many people do wear what I would call silkies (like cuddle-duds)under their slacks for added warmth. I think you will know if you need those or not based on where you live.

Tiff -

What a great report!!!! As others have said, you should write for a living. I loved the line.."I just shake my head and smile with DH, again I can't believe we are here" I know that feeling so well! Maybe you can help ghostwrite my next trip report LOL

I am soooo happy that you and DH had a great time. How did DH like all the amor and swords up in the attic of the Doges Palace?

How did the Tri-X work out for you? Looking foward to the next installment.

Tom

That should be 'armor and swords'

Tiff - hello and thanks so much for the info! I grew up in England but I live in N.C. so I'm out of practice for cold weather! I usually travel light - maybe 25 lbs in a backpack, but for a week+ in one place I can go heavier. I'll check into the Michael Starr's shirts - I'll be in Northern Greece the beginning of April and I'm thinking that may be chilly - for trips I'm usually buying Coolmax tops from Travelsmith to stay cool!

Looking forward to more of your lovely Venice - especially food...

I finally had a minute to catch up on this report. What a perfect way to start a rainy, cold Saturday!!

Love your writing, girlfriend!!

Hi OWJ, my friend ~ Sorry that it is rainy and cold there, but pleased this brought you warmth. Big hug for you.

Hi thursdaysd ~ Actually, two of our favorites restaurants are coming up in the next installment, shhhhhhhhh! Stay tuned, ha.

Hello to you TRSW ~ I knew I'd see your face here soon, ha. I don't have my Tri-X black and white back yet. The color is back, but B&W won't be until 3/3. I'll keep you posted. DH loved the armor and swords at Doge, funny how all the men kind of perked up during that segment, lol. If I recall, it was towards the end right???

Happy Saturday everyone and thanks again!

Hello again thursdaysd ~ I also wanted to mention that cashmere is another wonderful fabric that warms well without being bulky, and actually during this time of year you can find many on sale.

Ok, that is all, I will go back to my report like a good little girl.

Between reading this lovely report and cigales Rainy Paris report, I hardly have need to go to Europe
Two of the Best Trip Reports!!
Thank you Tiff, for sharing everything

Thank you Scarlett, it is my pleasure, all of you have made this fun!

Today we are still blessed with a large abundance of sunshine.

On our way, we wander by a little shop, it is on a corner down a small calle, there is a little dish in the window that stops me dead in my tracks. Now I have yet to speak of shopping. At this point, we have purchased a few special pieces of original art, but little else. We really have no desire to be inside ANYWHERE until I see my little dish. It is made of fine Vetro Artistico Murano glass. It has a matte finish, which I ADORE. The brilliant blue it possesses reminds me of the lagoon and the little, delicate flowers are happily smiling up at me saying, “Tiff, I must leave my blessed homeland and travel back to chilly Minneapolis with you, for it is my destiny!”
Alas, the little shop is closed, and the little dish must remain without it’s possible new owner. Anyway, I have this curse that if I like it, it is probably four million Euros.

The morning is spent at the Rialto Market. We are happily overwhelmed with the colors. The shiny reds of the peppercinis against the brown wood baskets. Stunning oranges. The greens, the yellows. The scene before us is a photographer’s dream. Even the wide spectrum of grays on the fish are unlike we have ever seen. It is such fun. This is the way it has been for centuries, this is the Rialto Fish Market, unchanged, why mess with perfection?

We decide in the midday sun to take the vaporetto over to the islands. We figure out with the assistance of Francesco which vaporetto to take, and once we are at our stop and viewing the signage, it is not as difficult as I had imagined. As we stand on the platform, we think of our dear Statia.

The plan is Murano, Burano and Torcello. It is breathtaking drifting across the lagoon. When we arrive at Murano, there are a few that join us, but they disperse rapidly. We find ourselves strolling independently as there is no one around us. Many businesses are closed but that is fine with us. We are just here for the experience. We really have no desire to take a glass factory tour and decide it is ok not to. Onward we travel, now to Burano.

Upon arrival, it is completely, completely deserted and feels very surreal. Now we really feel as if we went through a time warp because as we are the only ones here, it is a very unique experience. The colors of the homes are vibrant and remind us somewhat of the Victorians in San Francisco. Dependable Mother Nature is busy at work bleaching someone’s wash that is hanging nearby. We just never tire of the wandering and all the colors of Burano make our camera jump with joy.

Acknowledging our hunger, we take a chance at Al Raspo De Ua (Via Galuppi, 560 – phone 041 730095) If I could just have one slice of that pizza right now, just one little slice… DH’s Mussels Soup is so fantastic, he wants me to take a picture of it, LOL, and I do. It was presented in this huge terra cotta pottery bowl and is most definitely picture worthy. This little spot is among our top three dining experiences for this portion of the journey. As we are in the middle of our meal they are setting up for a large party. Three long tables with wine and bread, they bring out as much as they can prior to their guests arrival. We speculate as to who will join us, possibly hungry workers stopping for much needed refueling. Maybe an Italian family joyfully celebrating a special birthday. Only this once do our imaginations go unfulfilled, it is nothing quite that exciting, only a tour group, LOL.

We stroll and stroll on this small island, and by now the sun is in the beginning stages of it’s descent. It is getting more chilly and for the first time we are now starting to feel tired. We decide that possibly we should not proceed to Torcello and even though I am sad, I think it a good decision. I think of SusanEva & Eloise because I would have really liked to have seen Torcello and all the mosaics. SusanEva’s description was so beautiful. But this is all this day will allow and we travel back to Venice.

It is a relaxing, light dinner at Alla Madonna by the Rialto Bridge that warms us this evening. It is well known here in Fodorville and we agree that it is quite good.

This time as we crawl home, we try with all our might to find the little shop that is the current residence of my little dish. What the anticipation of my little Sophi,e as I am about to give her a treat, I wait and wait. DH is a love and although we are tired we purposely go out of our way because we think this route is the best chance of bumping into it yet again.

Glorious of glories, there it is, my little dish still there smiling at me. But the shop owner is gone again, and with the late hour this is the expected result. But at least we have found her! This time strong, definitive, mental notes are taken of our location, for tomorrow, our last full (gulp) day, we will be back.

We end the evening playing cards and DH beats me in Gin for the millionth time. Why I continue the suffering I will never know. Perhaps it is that one time to his ten, that I do slap those cards down in victorious triumph, that sustain me. Most likey it is that I just love to hear him laugh.

Next installment:
The Little Tavern That Could… And The Clock That Sped Away

Tiff, I'm loving your report and look forward ever so to the next installment. I do hope you managed to buy that dish. It sounds very much like one I bought in Venice years ago: matte, background deep turquoise, totally covered in tiny white flowers. Every time I look at it, it reminds me of happy days in Venice.

I'm sorry you missed Torcello, but it gives you a reason (as if you needed one...) to go back.

Oh Tiff, just finished getting all my income figures together for my accountant (2005 tax filing of course) and actually had a bit of a stiff neck.

Poured myself a glass of wine and read the next installment of your report. Stiff neck went ciao ciao. I mentally travelled with you, and I too hope you were able to buy the precious Venitian bowl..ah the suspense of that. And how wonderful to see TRSW(Tom) here on this thread..hi Tom!

All the fellows seem to love the armour and swords, my DH did. Too precious.

So look forward to your next installment dear Tiff. Except I know your report will soon end..could you and your DH plan another trip to Italy ASAP so we will have some more beautiful writing to read? Hugs!

Oh loveitaly, I know how tiff feels, I wanted a vase that I'm sure none of you would like, a giant snail shell that had three or four small snails crawling on it. but, alas, too expensive and also consoled myself because it would not fit into my carryon and too fragile for checkin, the way they toss those bags around.
Nighty night to all you nice fodorites.

Hello Mimi dear, guess what? An aunt of mine (raised in Australia) had a vase shaped like a snail with baby snails on it. I always loved that vase from the time I was a little girl. But I didn't receive it when she passed on..no doubt my cousin got rid of it as I never saw it again.

I know the feeling of wanting to buy something so bad and not being able to, the memory of the item stays with you forever.

Tiff, the only problem with a trip report like this- is the need you will have to go out and take another trip, so we can all read about that one too!
You really know how to write a charming story and make us all wish we were there too~

Scarlett ~ I am more than willing to get those bags packed STAT, hee. Thanks again, you are sweet.

Oh Mimi ~ I am sorry you couldn't get your snail shell vase. Maybe someday you will see something similar and closer to home!

LoveItaly ~ Anytime I can make a sore neck (or taxes) go far, far away it pleases me, thank you sweetheart.

Eloise ~ Ahhh, yes, there is always next time. Only during that journey we will go to Torcello first! Thanks for your kind words, I am so glad you are enjoying it. I am also pleased you got your little dish and it brings back happy memories.

tagging for reading later...I started reading but I am in a hurry and this deserves my full attention!

Tiff, my mind is all made up to go to Switzerland this summer and now you start making my mouth water for Italy...btw, I bet you talk to paintings and sculptures out loud...as I do.

Hi Marigross ~ Well when they speak to you, responding appears to be the most natural thing to do, right?!?

The little shop (Robe de Vero, San Marco, 4852 – 30124, phone 041 5204275) is completely in the opposite direction of where we are headed this morning but that does not stop us. We find it again without trouble. This time, a delightful Italian woman is smiling at me from behind the glass and there, on her spotless shelf, my little dish awaits patiently.

She speaks little English but understands what I desire. As I beam, she beams with pride and places the tiny dish in my hands. We discover that the amount of Euros needed are within our range of comfort and the transaction begins. She wraps it beautifully and it is carefully tucked away in a lovely royal blue bag with a shiny gold embossed sticker from beneath her counter. I love this entire process as much as I love the little dish.

I pretend to have grace and most of the time I can pull it off, but in truth I am the most clumsy person I know, lol, so DH and I think it best to stop at our Locanda, leaving the package there to wait for us for fear if we do not, it (or I with it) will end up in the Grand Canal.

Afterwards, we sit for a spell at an outdoor café in St. Mark’s Square enjoying coffee, hot tea, our newspaper and the scene before us. In winter, at an outdoor café, we know we are the privileged guests Mr. Sunshine. We have been blessed with it’s warmth during these cool days.

We stroll in the direction of water to take the traghetti across the Grand Canal to the Guggenheim. Slow down day, please slow down, you are going too fast. Who’s turn was it DH, to stop the clock, yours or mine?

The former residence of Peggy Guggenheim, Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, is a treasure and a wonderful collection of modern art. It is very nice in size, and you feel that you have ample time to explore both the interior and the gardens at ease. The views from the terrace off the Grand Canal are spectacular. We really enjoyed this gallery, and if you like modern art, do not miss it.

Our lunch was the most pleasant of surprises and absolutely scrumptious. Tavernetta San Maurizio (San Marco 2619 – phone 041 5285240) was the luckiest find of Venice, cucina speaking, that is – DH found this one, it was a “passerby-need to eat now moment”. What a true gift. I almost lost the business card for this one during the trip home, it was tucked into another receipt and when I spotted it and was so thrilled. I would not have remembered the name or it’s location because we were in ‘wander mode’, it would have saddened me greatly not to be able to tell you of this wonderful spot. The “Vegetable Risotto for Two” was the best we had in Italy, and the best I have had anywhere, I don’t know that I will ever have it’s equal. I could have died right then and there with a smile on my face. And the bread, oh the bread… they served a couple different kinds, make sure you try the Italian bread with the chewy crust. We created our favorite simple concoction for dipping (just your basic olive oil, fresh parmesan and finely ground black pepper mixture) Good God in heaven. I can say no more. (This precious little tavern gets our vote for Number One, of our top three favorite dining spots, for this portion of our journey.)

Our adventure next leads us to a hall honoring Vivaldi. Excited because we knew of it, and also because we are great admirers, we decide to enter. Admission is free of charge however there is a box for voluntary donations. His tomb is adorned with two beautiful angels and musical instruments. It is a very nice memorial. Very peaceful with his music playing in the background.

We reluctantly decide it is best now to go back to our room and get things ready for our early morning departure. Clothes are packed. Tipping envelopes with notes of thanks and euros are stuffed. Last pictures are taken from my favorite window. We feel happy but sad all at the same time.

Our last dinner tonight will be at Ristorante Masaniello (Campo San Stefano, 2801 – phone 041 5209003 website: www.venicemasaniello.it ) It is a very relaxing atmostphere. My Fusilli Primavera was outstanding and DH’s Baby Octopus Stew was delicious. (Among the top three of our favorites.) Acqua Pazza (it’s sister restaurant) was closed during the time we were there for holiday.

We say our good-byes to our gracious hosts at Locanda Orseolo, for we know they will not be there when we depart at 4:45 the next morning. I have tears in my eyes and we feel as though we are saying good-bye to family members rather than the owners of a locanda.

The next morning we wake, and our water taxi is perfectly on time. We crawl through the little water taxi door once more, only this time our euphoric smiles are nowhere to be found.

DH gives me a hug as we sit on the heated inside of our taxi. It is beautiful and serene. We are as quiet as the darkness outside as we float through the little canals until they give way to wider waters.

As we board the KLM cityhopper, I think of our LoveItaly for I know that she has been here before me. It is still very dark, the new day will soon bring a flurry of new visitors to bella Venezia.

I don’t know, could one say exactly what was their favorite? The small, cobblestone path of a walled medieval village, children chasing after pigeons, church bells greeting you as you wake from peaceful slumber, seeing your DH smile, visiting with David, enjoying the people of a country with so much respect for those that walked before them, every footbridge you cross or being able to share and relive it with friends on a travel website…

Italy is so very full of ambience and charm. Enchanted April in any month. It embraces you from the moment you arrive and you are forever grateful you had the opportunity to stay, if only for a while.

Tiff....bummer, it's over! I so enjoyed this..thank you so much!

....and I'm so glad you were able to purchase your lovely little dish!

Oh Tiff, the ending of your report brings tears to my eyes..to think that you thought of me while getting on the KLM CityHopper..I also know how you felt in the taxi as you left Venice..heartbreaking isn't it? But you two will return, we all do dear one.

And I too am so thrilled you were able to take "your" Venetian bowl home with you, it was obviously meant to be. I smiled when you said how the clerk put it in a royal blue bag with a gold embossed sticker. I truly believe part of the magic of buying anything in Italy is the way the Italians wrap up the items before they present it to you. Truly an art all of its own.

Thank you Tiff for taking so many of us with you and your dear husband on your journey in Italy. Your trip report is especially special, as you are.

Ah Tiff, truly Enchanted April and enchanted writing. Thank you for sharing your Italy. I especially loved the islands and the wandering times. I'm so glad you found your blue bowl! Is it sitting by your computer as you type, murmuring "remember Venice"?

Thanks for the Tavernetta San Maurizio - I adore risotto - enough that I even cook it on occasion. And thanks for the cashmere suggestion - I imagine long silk underwear and a cashmere sweater, and think the pairing deliciously decadent. Of course, I second (third, fourth...) the request for another trip!

Hi Tiff,
This is OWJ2, OWJ's DH. I was amazed by your post. When OWJ and I went to Italy, it was as if all my life I had been waiting to go to a special place, and now I am there. When you spoke of the sculptures leading up to "David", I felt the same. "The Birth of Venus", I was awestruck. And Venice, I was so happy to be there and so sad to leave. Your journey brought me back to to a place I can't wait to go see again. Thanks !!

Tiff no! I don't want it to be over Whilst reading your trip report I've actually experienced near tears of anticipation (is there such a thing?) for our May trip. Just 3 girlfriends in celebration of all turning 40 this year. Right now I'm working on our Venice segment (besides wandering aimlessly which I look forward to as well). If you have any suggestions in the Castello area (where we're staying) please share However, it doesn't seem like anything in Venice is too far away...

cigalechanta - The vase you mention sound quite clever and unique. I think I would become attached too

Tiff, Thank you so much for this beautiful trip report. Loved every minute of reading it as you must have loved every minute of this trip!

Hi OWJ2 ~ what an honor it is to have OWJ's DH here and thank you so very much for your compliments. Have to tell you since reading our trip report, my DH has taken to calling me DW, lol. Might want to throw that one past OWJ sometime for a giggle, hee.

gomiki ~ thank you!!

LoveItaly ~ Well of course I thought about you. I know the cityhopper is the route you take as you have mentioned it and even at that early hour (ha) you were first and foremost on my mind!

thursdaysd ~ It has been good to visit with you. And yes, if you are a loyal subject to risotto as I am, Tavernetta San Maurizio is a must. Don't forget the bread! p.s You are right, the little dish does murmur from time to time.


hipvirgochick ~ I am one year behind ya sweetie, next year will be my 40th. What a delightful celebration for you and your friends! I am sorry, I wish I had more recs for you, especially near and around Castello, but just keep searching... the Leo's rec I found only days before we left, so you never know when that good tip is about be to typed!

artlover ~ Mille grazie.

Tiff:

Thank you so very much for all of your posted information on your recent trip to Italy. I also am a Twin City resident and will be flying NW Airlines(hopefully there will not be a strike), to the Amsterdam airport. I will have a 3 hr (6am-9am) layover before flying to Bologna, & was curious as to what the Amsterdam airport would be like. It was also helpful to know that there is internet access there The info on seatguru was helpful as I'm again a "new" traveler. This will be my first trip in quite a few years. (First of many...I hope)

The info on Manny's Private Car Services and Goldwind is WONDERFUL! Thank you! I too have a very sweet schnoodle named Abby I will sadly be leaving behind. Venice is one of the destinations on my itinerary...so I am so grateful for your sharing your journey, information and experiences. I am SO very happy that you were able to buy your Vetro Artistico Murano blue dish!! I think it was meant to belong to you.

I will be meeting up in Bologna with my friend (an Italian resident) on April 8th to begin this 12 day adventure. In spite of the fact that they are a resident of beautiful Italia, it's nice to be somewhat familiar with a few things/places myself. I feel like I've been researching forever...and your sharing really has made me even MORE excited about this trip. (Is that even possible??? lol) I'm so happy that your trip with DH was everything you'd hoped for and more!! Please keep up the wonderful postings!!

Oh Tiff...you made me long to be back in magical Venezia. Sigh.... I wonder how Rome will compare for me in the next couple of weeks?

What a beautifully written report. Thanks for sharing your special time in Italy with us.

Tiff: What a report! DH and I are going to be in our favorite city, Florence and then onto our other favorite city, Venice in very Enchanted April. Thanks for bringing all of their wonders before my "mind's eye". You are a fabulous writer, and what you write is what I feel, thanks for expressing it all for me!

Could you please give me a bit of direction as to where Tavernetta Maurizio is in San Marco? I am a great fan of Risotto. Grazie.

Reading Tiff's description of the risotto made my mouth water. So I did a search and found this on VT:
Tavernetta San Maurizio (San Marco 2619) – Take the street that exits Campo San Maurizio to the east. Restaurant will be on left.

Hopefully Tiff has more definite directions....tap..tap..tap...my tummy's growling!

It's certainly on my A-list for next month!

Thank you so much, kopp. Like I said, had I not found their business card, all would have been lost. DH just pulled me in on our last day's stroll.

What I do know is that it is more west of Piazza San Marco vs. north. It it NOT between San Marco and the Rialto. If you were walking west of San Marco towards the Accademia Bridge, it is more in that direction, if that makes sense. You could always call too for more specific directions once you get there. Thanks again, kopp, for looking it up!

PeggyAnn ~ I will look forward to reading about your adventure with your DH! It looks like we have a lot in common about our passion for these two cities, thanks for you kind words.

Oh Statia, you are going to LOVE Rome. SO much history, SO much to see. And this special trip that you have planned will have so much meaning because of your family. Think of me when you are standing inside the Pantheon. My visit was a perfectly rainy day, seeing the rain tip toe in through the ceiling was wonderful. There was a talented gent playing a violin just outside, I hope he is there for you!

happytraveler2006 ~ Oh I so hope your travel plans are not affected even if they do strike, don't worry. We loved the Amsterdam airport, great terminal for a layover.

How great that you have your little Abby. It is sure hard to leave them, isn't it? A year ago, Sophie (at age 1) had to have surgery on both her back legs due to a genetic disorder called luxating patellas, so I was her nurse during those months. Lots of her on my lap, she just wanted to be near me. I planned our entire trip while she was on my lap, LOL. We always say now that Sophie's surgery only cost us the expense of the vet and a trip to Italy, ha.

That will be so much fun that you are actually visiting a friend in Bologna. Such an old city! Enjoy! I am so pleased that my report assisted you in your research and yes I agree, it will mean more to you to know a bit about the things you will see when you see them, it has always to me. Safe journey!

Tiff,

Thanks for such a wonderful trip report! You really do have a gift for writing. But you didn't say it you got to have lunch in tiny San Sano? I stayed there 4 nights on my second trip and just loved it!

Grazie!

tiff, pictures of this very special trip? or did I mis the post?

Tiff, this sounds like a fabulous trip with lots of memorable experiences.

My only regret about visiting Italy in winter is that I found that it was not terribly comfortable to walk after 9 PM (at least in Florence). Too cold and dark. In Venice and Rome, I did. Oh, and my other regret is not hearing the duelling orchestras, although of course there is lots of other music to be had. Did you take any late-night strolls during your trip?

Oh Mimi ~ Sorry, no pix on my computer, doll, I am a bit "digitally challenged" and more of an old fashioned photo album kind of girl. Either I'm not doing it right or I just prefer my 35mm, but I used my digital for a year and shelved it. I just love my 35mm and can't let go of it. The clarity, in my opinion, is no contest.

Hi Dayle ~ That was the "Luca guided day" and we did have lunch but my attention to detail does have it's limits, lol. Sadly I don't recall where we lunched, so I just kinda left that part out. Shhhhhhhh, maybe no one else will notice.

WillTravel ~ That is when the Limoncello comes in handy, lol. I fear we noticed the cold a little less during our late night strolls when we had a titch of it in us, hee.

I know what you mean about the dueling orchestras, they were missed. However I did have DH singing Sannnnnnnntttttta Luuuuuucccccia to me every five seconds. He is available for rental.

Tiff, I have recalled your story about the rain at the Pantheon and have secretly hoped we get to see the same beautiful scene, although I hope it doesn't rain the rest of the trip. Wouldn't that be rather miraculous?

Only two more weeks to go and I'm getting nervous and excited all at the same time. There are just so many more considerations traveling so far with my mother.

Thanks again for the lovely report.

Hi Tiff, What a gorgeous report! I was enchanted at the beginning but decided to wait to read the entire thing and then say thanks. I'll be re-reading for sure! I sigh for Italy all of the time-thanks for bringing back memories. My DH is not a modern art afficionado so his response to the Guggie was hilarious-especially the statue with the detachable you know what! Regards and brava for your report, Donna

Tiff - it was a delight to 'meet' you and share your trip. I hope to 'travel' with you again soon! Meanwhile, I'll be in Europe for for-real April (and May, and June), although not in Venice, alas. I hope to find a few enchanting corners even so.

thursdaysd ~ I hope we get little updates while you are there for your 3 month stay. It would be too painful to have to wait until you return in July! May every turned corner be an adventure.

donco ~ Thank you! (Laughed at your hubbie and the guggie comments, lol)

Statia ~ 2 more weeks! That time does go by fast, I can remember when you were still looking for accommodations. This will be a lovely trip. I cannot wait to hear all about it. Safe journey. (And take lots of notes, hee.)

Tiff-I took the KLM godawful early flight last year.It's the most bittersweet thing,to be taking this gorgeous early-morning ride to the airport,but away from la serenissima....(that's why I'm returning next week!)

Tiff-Would you mind sharing some insight into your approach to tipping at L.O? I understand they provide an uncommonly high level of service and I would appreciate some guidance here.

Hey massagediva ~ aren't you the one who wrote the post about "getting to spend a week at Locanda Orseolo" a while back or am I thinking of someone else? I completely thought of your post after my first delicious bit of crepes at Locanda. Isn't it funny when Fodorites pop into our minds?

If it is you and my mind is not totally gone, tell them the couple from Minneapolis said hi, hee.

Enjoy, I miss it already!

Yes,I am thatlucky person.Care to share some tipping insights?

Oh MD, we were posting at the same time.
They would not allow us to tip at Locanda. WOULD NOT. So I left thank you notes and Euros in envelopes for them as we departed.

Right,I've heard that. Did you have an individual envelope for each staffperson? How did you decide how much to give each person?

You know what, I take that back, the only one that did accept a tip was the nightwatch man. He assisted us with our bags as we were leaving, we tipped him and he did accept it, and we gave him the envelopes for the others. The chambermaid's envelope I left in the room for her.

We keep posting at the same time MD, sorry.

I did write their names on the envelopes, and again the chambermaids I left in the room.

I would just tip at the end whoever you would have tipped during your stay.

They are the best.

Thanks,Tiff. Good information.I'll be taking your restaurant recs. with me.

Hi Tiff,

I'm so glad that your little Sophie is so much better now. I had not heard of that genetic disorder before, but it sounds horrid! I'm sure she was/is happy that you were her devoted nurse.

Thank you for your assurances regarding the strike...time will tell. Are there any "must do/see items" at the Amsterdam airport? I'll keep you posted how it all turns out. Thanks again!

Ciao, Bella. Tiff, I just came in from a wonderful trip and was feeling a tad let down (and a little harried as there is much to do to make up for my absence). I decided just a peek at Fodors to see what's new while I was away can't hurt. To my delight I found your post. Oh dear, I read the whole thing...when I should have been working...and now I am going back and read it again. Welcome home and thank you for lifting my spirits and filling my heart. And hug Miss Sophie for me, I know she is glad to have you two home.

Yeah!!!!!!!!!! My cmcfong is back! I thought you might be out of town. I was even on FFR&R wondering where you were, hee. I hope you had a wonderful trip, what destination was it this time, dear friend?

Then this morning I said to my DH that I was starting to worry a bit, but I know how much you travel, so I just kept telling myself that you were on another adventure!

Do tell, I hope it was a delightful time. I bet your five baby dogs are happy that you are back as well! I am sorry that I lured you away from your work, lol, but you know Italy, she will do that to you!

Welcome home, we missed you!
Sophie and Tiff

p.s. I am so sorry dear happytraveler2006, I did not see that you had posted before cmcfong!

I can't say that there is any one time not to miss at the Amsterdam airport, hee, very cute question. It is just such a nice terminal to have a layover. Ours was about the same amount of time that yours is, 3 hours, and it went by quite rapidly there.

A nice perfume/makeup duty free shop, the office/internet center, many options for eating everywhere, especially the food court with fresh soups, etc. You will love it!

Do keep us updated, ok?
Safe journey!

Oh my goodness Tiff, I have fallen behind on my trip report reading! See what a little thing called work can do to a person. I have got to get my priorities in order, for goodness sake...lol!

Silly STW ~
Work =
Fodors =

Ciao, Tiff. How sweet of you to think of the pups. They were pleased to see me. Rocket Dog had class today and he was definitely showing the effects of a week without practice!
I am celebrating a Big OH birthday this year,so two of my dearest friends from high school and I decided to take advantage of a kind offer a friend . He owns a gorgeous house (actually it was two complete houses joined by a lovely patio/gazebo) in Man O'War Cay in the Abacos, Bahamas. We had full use of it for a week. Our weather was perfect. We had a special visit as only very old (er, "long time" sounds better) friends can do. I will post a short trip report soon.

Happy Birthday to you.
Happy Birthday to you.
Happy Birthday, dear loyal Fodorite Friend, Happy Birthday to YOU!

Oh, what a delighful celebration this sounds like, we (DH and I) can't wait to hear about some SUNSHINE to warm our cold selves here in Minnesota.

We adore visits with our old (errr, I mean "long time") friends very much!

We have similar long time friends and there is nothing that compares, it is a credit to you that you have such long time friends.
Happiest of Birthdays, sweetheart!

Tiff - do I detect a hint of Marlena de Blasi's influence in your trip report? I only just finished 1000 Days in Tuscany, and Days in Venice was before that. Since you're a Firenzephile, have you read "The Birth of Venus" by Sarah Dunant? A good one, if you haven't!

Thanks so much for sharing your trip with us.

One questions - the "secret passageway" tour at Palazzo Vecchio - is this the same tour that takes you through the passageway that runs over the Ponte Vecchio?

Hi ceb1222 ~ Thanks for reminding me, you know I never got to finish it, and ultimately never began ATDIT. In route was definitely when I had the time.

When you arrive, you are so so busy, and your senses are in overdrive because you are in the dreamlike place. By the time you are back in your room, you are so tired from walking all day that you fall fast asleep, lol.

One thing I did make sure of is that I at least jot down quickly, in outline form, where we were that day and what restaurants that we dined in and I am so glad that I did, because it was excellent to refer back to that now, five weeks later, when I began writing this trip report!

To answer your question, the "Secret Passageway Tour" that we took was within the Palazzo Vecchio. The palazzo is a good three blocks away from the Ponte Vecchio.

I was not aware that there was any such private tour at the Ponte Vecchio, but if there is I know we would have enjoyed it. DH & I loved that bridge, The view that those shop owners have from that bridge is amazing. And I loved the little doors to enter into the shops, so tiny, it was fantastic! I will look to see if I can find anything on this.

Thanks, Tiff. You started a very nice and informative thread.

Thank you RufusTFirefly, I appreciate it!

Tiff - I read in an issue of Conde Nast Traveler about a list of "extras" you can see/do on certain "dream trips". Apparently, there is a secret passageway, called the Vasari corridor, that runs above the shops of the Ponte Vecchio, linking the Pitti palace to the Uffizi (I guess if I had remembered that in the first place, I wouldn't have even asked you the question!). I've just looked it up, which is where I'm getting all this info...

As I recall from the Traveler article, you can reserve a special tour, I think through the Uffizi, to travel the secret passageway. I believe the tour costs a decent amount, but would be so interesting!

http://tinyurl.com/zsdz3

I think the Vasari Corridor tour you are referring to may be the same as you'll find on the URL above...? It doesn't appear to to expensive though.

K

Wow. Yeah, the price is very reasonable. I thought I remembered seeing it for $250 USD or something like that...

Aw, gee, Tiff. Loved the song! You are a sweetie.

Thanks Tiff for the info on the Amsterdam airport. I will keep you posted! Thanks for the good wishes!

Thanks for the good wishes, Tiff. I could maybe do trip reports on the road - I usually send them to an email list & post on my website, might even blog this trip, so I could do a fodors version - more on hotels & food than usual, I think? Only three weeks to go - if I can just finish hotel reservations, stop hassling with Western Union (I can send money over the net to Moldova but have to show up in person for Romania??), try out my new camera and get my leaky roof replaced I'll be all set....

Oh my thursdaysd, still a leaky roof to fix before you depart on your three month adventure... May you get all that you need to take care of accomplished and have a peaceful beginning to your journey. Just like to happytraveler, I will say keep in touch!

happytraveler2006 ~ Yes, please do keep us posted, I know we will all look forward to hearing more. This is what gets us through to our next trip, hee.

Tiff,

Just a fast note to let you know, (if you don't already know this), that it appears we're out of the woods on the possibility of a NW pilot strike. I like many others out there I'm sure, am VERY relieved! Thanks for the support!

Me too happytraveler. Although I haven't purchased tickets yet this year I sure didn't want to lose my FF miles.

Thanks happytraveler2006 ~ I have been following it but we were gone most of the weekend so I haven't heard anything in a day or so. You must be so relieved! I am happy for the travelers, and for the pilots if it is an agreement that they are content with, it is such a difficult spot for all.

Hi LI ~ I am right there with you, I think DH and I have the highest amount we have ever had right now, good to know we might not lose them!

Hi Tiff and Love Italy,

Losing all those wonderful FF miles would be heartbreaking for sure!! Sure am glad for all those that have them, that is not going to happen!!

Tiff - I hope you are still checking in. Do you mind if I ask what class room you booked for the Locanda Orseolo: the deluxe, superior or standard? Your room sounded lovely

I had just put it on my short list when I saw your post. It's now at the top!

If you don't check in, maybe someone else knows the answer as it seems to be a popular hotel. Besides, your thread needed topping - it is definitely worthy of a higher listing! Loved your report - a joy to read

We have stayed twice at Orseolo in the same room...don't think it was a junior suite, but it had a canal view and matches the description that Tiff provided.

"Our room" is #15, Pulcinella. You can ask for it by name!

Hi Venetian30 ~ I am sorry for the delay, I do still check the thread occasionally for any follow up questions but I have been otherwise detained recently, but I am back now!

We stayed in room 25, also known as "Pierrot". I believe it was initially described to me as "a large double superior canal view room".

The views were fantastic. A lovely king size bed, ottomon in fabric to match, desk and chair, large wardrobe, a small sitting area for one gorgeous hardwood floors. The location was perfect for us, very central yet quiet.

The hotel itself is lovely and rich in it's color and fabrics, but the real treat of Locanda Orseolo are your hosts. As I mentioned above you are treated truly as family and it is sincere. They love what they do, this is their dream and it is apparent throughout your entire stay. I miss it so much. Call for reservation early as they book up months in advance. Let me know what you find, I will check back here and have a lovely tme in bella Venice!

Hi beanweb!

topping for sdtravels...

Tiff: thank you for this report. It is very reassuring, I,too, am traveling off-season (November)so I am delighted to see that my concerns about off-season travel are ridiculous.

LoveItaly (I think) had referred me to this same thread shortly after I first stumbled ono Fodor's. I was not too skilled at navigaion and somehow did not find it. Glad I have it bookmarked now!

Olive_Oil

Hi Olive Oil ~ It is my pleasure, and thank you for your kind words.

I have experienced Italy in May and as you have read above, most recently in January. I can say with great certainty that when we return, if we have the choice, it will be during the off season. You feel as if you have slipped back in time, the atmosphere is completely intoxicating!

Enjoy, remember to wander. It will forever be a part of you. That is the gift.

I'll look forward to YOUR report, hee.
Tiff

Bookmarking.

Wonderful report so far, I've got a lot left to read.

Thanks for posting this!

Hi luveurop ~ Glad you are enjoying it, just let me know if you have any questions, I will check back.

I spent a good portion of last night reading all of Tiff's postings on her and DH's trip to Italy. Tiff, you are an amazingly wonderful writer. I felt like I was eating that chocolate crepe myself! I was so impressed with her stay at Locanda Orseolo that I immediately went to the web site to see if they could have us in September. Unfortunately, they are totally booked so that is out for this trip. My DH and I are going back to Venice in September. It is our 10th wedding anniversary and that is where we spent our honeymoon. We love Italy and have traveled there many times. This time I booked a room at the Flora. I have sent emails to them asking for a large, lovely room with view. Does anyone have specific room information on the Flora in terms of room numbers? I stayed there one night a number of years ago and had an absolutely huge, spacious room but I didn't write down the room number. Any help would be greatly appreciated. btw, this is my first time posting on this site. I so enjoyed everyone's comments and suggestions and have made lots of notes for our upcoming trip. Thanks!

Hi GaPch ~ Thank you for your lovely sentiments, it made me smile.

Yes, our dear Locanda Orseolo books quite up far in advance, I am sorry they did not have availability.

As far as the Flora goes, it is probable that you might not get a reply from anyone on this thread. However, you can always do a text search (just type "Flora hotel Venice" or the such into the text search box and see what comes of it. Or you could always start a post of your own, with a very specific title on Flora, etc.

I thank you again for your gracious post, and wish you a lovely anniversary in September, Tiff

Thank you for bringing this back to the top - I missed it first time around - what a magical trip report. What a wonderful antidote to some of the bickering posts I have read (and, hangs head in shame, contributed to) lately!

Hi wombat7 ~ Thanks! I have to say that I felt as inspired by Italy as by those who kindly posted on this thread. It takes a lot of time to type a trip report and everyone that posted here replied in such a kind mannger, it literally made me want to keep typing, lol!

We had such a joyous time in bella Italia, I cannot wait to go back, and if any of my words inspire someone else to discover this great country then that pleases me immensely.

Best wishes and thanks for posting, Tiff

This was a pleasure to read! Thanks for sharing.

Bookmarking
Enchanting!

Hi Tiff,

You certainly raised the stakes in trip reporting! I have just sepnt the last 2 hours of work time reading your report - I couldn't stop! But I must thank you - we are travelling to Italy this December/January. Being from the other side of the globe it is our summer holiday so the only time we can get enough time to travel overseas. I am so glad to hear that it is still magical. I have noted all your restaruant recommendations - I hope they are still good a year later.

Hi aussie ~ I am so thrilled that you were able to read a report that was during the time you will be in Italy. I was lucky enough to find several reports too, before we left, and the fact that all of them said that travel without so many tourists was so enjoyable definitely appealed to us.

Most of the restaurants I found here after extensive research and a couple others we found on our own, or from friends that had traveled before us, so they should still be good when you are there.

Best of luck to you for a pleasant journey, and thank you for your kind words!

samsmom1127 & npurpleh2 ~ Thanks for checking in!

Tiff,

I just stumbled onto this report in preperation of my first trip to Italy on September 29th.

Wow, truly terrific. I am so eager in anticipation to leave tomorrow. We are going to Rome, Florence and Venice.

Also somehow you managed to make going to Italy in the winter seem truly magical (and I am sure it was). I love the winter (being a Canadian girl) so you describing your visit during this time, made me realize that Italy at anytime in the year is gorgeous and worthwhile.

Thank you for sharing. I hope I can get to sleep tonight. I travel a lot, and I've been to many countries, but there is something about the magic of Europe, that gets me more excited than most other places.

I went to Costa Rica in the spring, and although it was fabulous, I didn't have that childlike excitement like I have right now. And it's all your fault, for stirring it all up when I still have 3 more weeks before I leave. Which means 21 nights of tossing and turning, anticipating the wonders of Italy!!

Hi Travelbug13 ~ Thank you very much, I am truly touched by your lovely and generous remarks.

My hope is that Italy sinks deep into your soul as it has for us.

Sit back, sip some vino, fall into peaceful slumber, for soon you will be in a splendid land!

Safe journey, and thank you again, Tiff

All I can say is, "WOW!!!" What a most fabulous travel essay (this was not one's usual trip report!).

Not ever having been to Italy, but with Venice on my list, I wish I was there now!!! Can't wait to get to Florence and Venice (and anywhere else time takes me!) after reading your most inspiring, romantic, detailed, and wonderful story. You are truly a gifted writer. Loved every sentence! Thanks for taking the time to entertain us all.

joy/luvparee

Tiff: A superb report. I just happened to find it, and it brings back every moment of Florence and Venice to me. That is a real gift. You should be doing travel writing. (take it from a travel writer. you are BETTER.)

Hi joy/luvparee & betseys ~ You are both very sweet. Thank you. I love Italy so much, I am glad you enjoyed our report. Best wishes to both of you.

And I enjoyed reading this lovely report again Tiff

Thank you, dear friend

Hi Tiff - Just reread this great report in anticipation on my upcoming return to Bella Italia (34 days and counting).

I was wondering, how did your Tri-X pictures turn out?

Tom

Oh yeah, TRSW, you are on your way AGAIN!!! How wonderful to read that you will soon be on your second adventure to Italy.

The pictures turned out nicely, but you can't take a bad picture in Italy, right??? DH and I especially liked the ones in Venice. Very mystical.

Thanks for the re-read. I am glad you enjoyed it. I sure enjoyed your trip report!

Where in Italy will you journey to this time?

Excited to hear all about it!
Take care.

Reading this for the first time on this chilly windy day has warmed me, but Tiff, I do hope you remembered to tip the pilot.

Hi Tiff,

This time around I have 3 nights each in Venice and Bologna followed with 6 nights in Florence. This is sandwiched in between starting the trip with 3 nights in Amsterdam and ending the trip with 5 nights in Paris.

I promise I will do a trip report and as always a link to my photos.

Tom

cigalechanta ~ Hi Mimi, thank you.

TRSW ~ Oh how delightful! That sounds like a wonderful trip. You really must try Tavernetta San Maurizio (San Marco 2619 – phone 041 5285240) while in Venice.

And in Florence, Leo's is a must! (Via Torta 7R – www.florencerestaurant.com open for lunch and dinner – closed Mondays – phone 055 210829)

DH and I pine away for these two places still almost on a weekly basis, LOL. Hidden treasures.

Soooooooo delicious! Have fun, looking forward to your report!

topping for twiz...

Thank you so much Tiff. You made me laugh and cry with this. Hubby and I are off to Italy for the first time this January and cannot wait.

Oh thank you, amandab.

You and your DH are going to have such a fabulous time. Six years ago I fell in love with Italy like no other destination I have ever experienced, and last winter being able to share her with my DH, well, it was more than I could have asked for, it was timeless.

Remember to layer your clothing. Florence is typically 5-10 degrees warmer than Venice during that time of year, but when we were there it was just the opposite, Venice was 10 degrees warmer and so sunny!

Wear a jacket that you absolutely love and won't tire of, something that is very comfortable and can kind of go dressy or casual, something you feel sassy in, hee.

I would be happy to answer any questions. Best wishes to you.

Arrivederci!

Thank you for this entertaining report, Tiff!

I enjoyed it thoroughly.

Now I'm looking forward to visiting Italy in 2007, whether in January or July. I can't wait!

Hi gabrieltraian ~ It is my pleasure, glad you enjoyed it.

I have been following your thread, please do keep us posted on which time of year you decide.

You are going to have a lovely time no matter what!
These are the easy decisions in life, no? What a delightful question to ponder.
Have fun!

Delightful question to ponder, indeed, Tiff.

Were there many people at the Uffizi? Would you have succeeded to visit without a reservation?

Oh completely. To sit and gaze with your husband, in the Botticelli room, with virtually no one with you was a gift beyond comprehension. My DH and I were in awe.

I almost couldn't leave!

Thank you, Tiff.

I asked this because we might decide at the last minute to visit Italy in January, when we may not have time to make reservations.

We just might go in January! We'll wait and see how we're gonna be with our finances.
I'll let you all know on my thread about this.

Oh please do keep us posted on your thread, gabrieltraian! We all appreciate updates.

Best wishes!

o i WISH i had time to read more tonight... bookmarking for later.

Thank you so much for the advice Tiff. We are not used to cold climates such as a European winter. We will layer our clothes. Bought DH a gortex jacket last weekend. It was ridiculously expensive so it had better do the job. I have a choice of 2 wool coats (black) - one knee length, the other mid calf length (both stylish) Which one would you suggest? I am favouring the knee length - just prefer this one. I will also take a rain coat (lined, knee length, not stylish looking - just practical) We have long johns, wool socks, boots, etc. DH has some lovely shetland wool jerseys and I have a few thin merino wool jerseys, which I can layer with other items, such as polar fleece jacket, thermal vests etc. Of course, we will also take scarves, hats and gloves. Do you think this is okay? Might also pack a small umbrella.
I can't believe that in 3 months time we will be in Venice !!!!!!
Tiff, do you think we will need to pre book visits to see the 'David', the Uffizi (haven't decided yet if we will visit this museum - is it really a definite 'must see'?),or the Vatican? I am a bit torn at the moment of whether to prebook or just turn up.
I'd be very grateful for your advice.
Amanda

Hi Amanda,

I would make reservations. You are not charged for the reservation at the Academia or Uffizi if you do not use them. It was not busy while we were there, but you never know when tour will come in, etc. It can't hurt.

I will cut and post the instructions and phone numbers that I followed from Ira. It is so fun to call and you can book both by using the same number. Right away ask for an English speaking operator.

Florence:
Uffizi and Academia Museum Reservations
The easiest and cheapest way is to call Florence 1016868 (dial around number) 011 (U.S. international access code) 39 (Italy's country code) then 055-294-883 8:30-18:30 M-F and 8:30-12:00 Sat. Florence time. You will get an English speaking operator and in 2-3 minutes YOU CAN RESERVE FOR BOTH. This is through the reservation service at the Uffizi and costs beyond the normal entry fee only about 3 euro for the service. This is MUCH cheaper than the commercial booking services.

You will not be charged for the reservations unless you use them.

In Venice:
Secret Itineraries tour of Doge’s palace Phone number is 011 39 041 520 9070. English-speaking operator.
You will not be charged for your tickets if you don't go on the tour.

Amanda, I think your list of clothing etc, is great. Just layer and you will be fine. Of the two coats you listed I would bring whichever one is more comfortable. I think the Gor-tex for your DH is great, and I know they are expensive, but it will break the wind and keep him warm. My DH wore a similar outerwear jacket the entire time. We saw many with this type of wear. The lightweight rain jacket for you is a great idea too, it won't take up much room and if you do get some warmer weather, you could wear that with a lightweight shirt underneath.

The main thing I can't stress enough is to be comfortable, wear things you love and feel good in. Wear one pair of shoes and pack one pair that you can alternate. You feet will swell on the flight over. I would bring shoes that are not tight and well broken in. If they are somewhat water resistant, that is even better, but you will always have an extra pair back at the room if they get soaked.

We did pack our mini Brookstone umbrella and did use it. It is little and clipped on to my DH's jacket with ease. Don't worry if you forget one though, you can purchase one anywhere.

It is such a romantic time of year to be in Italy. And you feel so much like you live there when it is not crowded. Again, I have been in May and last winter and I would do winter again in a second!

Do pop in for a limoncello or glass of vino when the mood strikes. Do bask in the glory. Sit, relax, observe. Try not to plan too much, be spontaneous, go with the moment.

I am so excited for you. You are going to enjoy this journey. I hope you fall in love with Italy.

My best wishes, I check often, so if you have any other questions please feel free to post - I love talking about Italy, LOL.

Take care, the next three months will FLY!

Hi Tiff, you are a mind of information! Thanks so much. Glad you approve of our travel wardrobe - it has been difficult deciding what we will/may need.
Thanks also for the comments on reservations. I was searching the Net on commercial sites and the prices quoted for prebooking were very expensive - alot more than the entrance fees themselves. I will make some reservations closer to the time with the phone numbers you have given me. At least then I won't need to worry about whether we will get in or not and I will plan our days around the bookings. Sounds sensible. I'm sure we will just love Italy - it is our first trip to Europe, both DH and I have just turned 40, so it's our birthday present - couldn't do much better than that could we.
I'm sure I'll chat to you again. Hope you are enjoying your weekend.
Take care, Amanda

ttt for monalua

Just stumbled upon your report because it was high up on the Europe forum list. I was just going to give it a glance but I was instantly pulled in and couldn't resist. Bravo!!! We were just in Venice in October as part of our honeymoon and I felt like I was there again while reading your report. If the boat ride back to the airport doesn't make your eyes well up, than you just didn't get Venice.

We had been to Venice once before. Our honeymoon was going to be Prague and Budapest but my fiancee knew that there was no way we couldn't go back to Venice, especially on our honeymoon. She suprised me with the news a couple of weeks before the trip. Excellent.

Your report reignited our love of Venice and the rest of our honeymoon. My trip report is up if you need a little hit of the drug called Venice.

Good day and happy holidays from Brooklyn.

Excellent, sgny, I will pull up your trip report. Not only to read of your adventures in Venice, but also because I have always been so drawn to Prague and am interested in your impressions.

What a fun surprise your now DW had in store for you! I love it. I have only been to Europe twice and both times it was to Italy. I start to plan trips to other countries, yet to be so close to my beloved Italy and not visit, well it's inconceivable, ha!

I am excited now to go and read your report. Thank you for your beautiful sentiments and happy holidays to you and your DW too, your first holiday season married, it is a special time.

Best wishes to you sgny - we hope to someday be skating in Central Park during this lovely time of year.

topping for julieann

Tiff, I'll add my thanks to your trip report! You may recall my daughter and I will be staying at the Laconda Orseola at the end of December. I assume you think the extra cost for a water taxi is worth it? I'll check with Bruno about the recommendation, just in case anything has changed. You mentioned envelopes with tips as you were leaving, could you elaborate on who all you left these for? thanks again!

BRR

Hi BRR,

Yes, of course, I remember, you must be getting so excited with all your planning! Let's see here, your questions...

Venezia Taxi is the water taxi company Locanda Orseolo considers reputable. Did I think it was worth it? Yes. However if someone was on a limited budget, I think the vaporetto would be fine, especially if you are traveling light. Bruno at LO provides very specific directions on which vaporetto to take and which stop to depart if you decide to go that route.

Also, I believe their website has detailed information:
www.locandaorseolo.com

Tipping... the staff at LO were very insistent about not accepting a tip in our presence. When we tried upon receiving services such as assistance with luggage, tips for restaurants, etc, they very politely refused. So at the end of our stay I left some sentiments in a note, along with Euros to show our appreciation. I left an envelope in our room for our maid. Provided one for the night watchman as he assited with bags as we left, and also left a letter with Euros for the owners and day staff. What can I say, by the time you leave, you feel as though you are saying good-bye to family. I have never left a letter when tipping in the past. These good people make you want to write the finest review possible.

You are going to have such a fabulous time. Please don't hesitate to ask if you have any further questions, ok?

Best wishes for a pleasant journey!

Thanks again, I am getting very excited, and your information is both a comfort and adding to the excitement! I'm so glad I discovered the fodorites, although I'm probably spending a little too much time here!
I can't believe I ever planned a trip before without it, so much great information.

Tiff:

I used your idea to have a "secret pocket" sewn into the inside of my coat. Worked great! Thank you.

Olive Oil

Secret pocket Tiff, I think I am going to have that done with a older but beautiful coat I own and if all goes well I will have that down with the new one I just purchased. Great idea!

BRR ~ Nahhhhhh! There is no such thing as "too much time spent on Fodor's" trust me, I know that which I speak of, ha.

Olive Oil ~ You sweetheart! Thank you for letting me know that the secret pocket worked. I am delighted it suited your needs and truly appreciate you sharing that with me. I have received so many good ideas on this website, it makes you happy to know someone used one of your own wacko concepts, lol. All of our little private idiosyncrasies, it is fun to share them amongst friends, isn't it?

Dearest LoveItaly ~ Honey, I have turned to you so many times for advice and wisdom, if I could I would come out there and sew that little secret pocket in your coat myself to repay you!

Safe travels all.

Oh Tiff, how I wish you could come out here! What fun that would be.

Question?? Did you have the pocket made big enough to hold your passport? And what type of material did you have used for the pocket? Thanks sweetie.

My tailor used a silk material similar to the lining of my coat. She used a velcro piece to close it that is on the inside of the pocket and not able to be seen. It was quite easy to reach inside an grab whatever was needed. One word of caution though, make sure not to use too big of a piece of velcro, because if the lining is a delicate fabric, it might tear. I have had mine for a year now, and it is pulling a bit. DG's is fine because his lining was a sturdy cotton. Perhaps a button, or zipper would be better to use as a closure? Or just be careful when pulling pocket open, I should love the security of the velcro.

Yes, dear friend, good thinking, we actually had out passports in mind when choosing the size of the pocket and fitted them big enough to hold if we so desired.

Cin, cin!

oops, that should be DH's not DG's (ha)

ok, I'm still lurking...I love the secret pocket idea!!! I am almost thinking of cutting up (!) my Rick Steve's silk moneybelt and sewing it inside my jacket. I have this ex-officio cardigan with a secret sleeve zipper, which was great for a mild weather trip, but won't be enough "cover" for a December/January trip.Rats, I just mailed my daughter her winter coat today, I should have sewn a secret pocket into it first!

Hi BRR, since you are 'still lurking' (lol) I wanted to share a link to one of my favorite Fodor's threads. The entire thread provides a great check off list on what you need to do before you travel, etc:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34648432

You won't forget a thing if you review that thread, ha!

Enjoy.

Thanks Tiff! I appreciate your instructions and think an inside pocket is a great idea. I know my DH had some blazers with inside pockets, his Italian tailor in SF did this for him. Sadly he is retired so I will have to see who I can find here or in SF that could do this without ruining my coats. Hugs!!

topping for ahammer

topping because it is my favorite trip report ever....

This is the second time I have read this, Tiff, and it is truly enchanting.

My favorite comment was from your time in the Duomo: "We step inside and my DH says out loud, “Wow.” His ‘wow’ actually echoes throughout her like a freight train and I have one of those private married giggles. His amazement is childlike and so very precious and I love him so much. "

My DH does similar things sometimes, and I have a 'private married giggle' to myself as well.

Thanks again for taking the time to write this report--almost a year ago!

Liz

I am humbled, thank you very much Liz.

Tiff, Just in case you check this thread again soon, I just want to thank you for your advice and I will keep re-reading this trip report to re-live my visit ito Venice! We absolutely did love the Laconda Orseola in Venice, and your description of the family there is so "on target". They were wonderful. The packing tips thread you pointed me to was great, I never did get around to sewing a pocket inside of my coat, I still love that idea. I probably won't get around to a trip report; the reports here are so entertaining and detailed and I don't think I'll find the time. Maybe the NEXT time I visit Italy! Keep warm, and again, thanks for helping make our trip extra special. Bonnie

Hi Bonnie

I am so happy that your trip to Italy was wonderful and that you enjoyed your stay in Venice at Locanda Orseolo. They are special people indeed.

Your sentiments about my trip report are so kind. Our journey was so enhanced due to trip reports from Fodor's.

One year ago today my DH and I were on a train from Florence to Venice (sigh!)

My best wishes to you, and if you ever get to type out a report, it doesn't have to be long. Restaurant highlights and hotel reviews are very valuable!

Take care, Tiff

topping in celebration of Tiff's upcoming Italia trip

Tiff, you're heading back? I am so jealous! I can't wait to read your future trip report

Safe Travels!

Liz

Tiffy, I'm so glad this came to the top again. I don't know what in the heck I was doing in Feb '06 that caused me to miss this, surely it wasn't very important. But that's OK, I have enjoyed my virtual tour of Italy tonight. This makes me want to go back.

And how very sweet of you to remember our little chat about the mushroom heaters!! You promised a chocolate bar to the first person to answer your question about outdoor seating in January, so of course I jumped at the chance. I didn't get the chocolate bar yet, but I made a new friend who is even sweeter than chocolate.

I promise not to miss your next Italian trip report.

Hi darlin' Tiff, I hope you still have that fabulous jacket!! I still still smiling regarding your fabulous news.

My excitement is utterly ridiculous. Think little kid on Christmas morning... and yes, dear friend, I still have the jacket, hee.

Liz (our sweet P_M knows this story, ha) This will be a delayed celebration of my (gulp, 40th) birthday this July.

After much research of here, there and everywhere for July - - DH came up with the brilliant (BRILLIANT) idea of delaying and celebrating next January in Italy. (Did I mention how brilliant my DH is????)

So it looks like I will remain 39 throughout 2007 and bring in the Big 4-0 in Rome!

Your DH is extra-super-brilliant!

Happy planning!!!

Congrats on your upcoming return to Italy and birthday celebration, and thanks again for your wonderful help, I will never forget it.

Tiff,

thanks so much for your report! We are thinking of going Rome/Venice January/Feb 2008. It was nice to hear that it is a magical place at that time of year. As you described some of your adventures in Venice, all I could think of was how much my children 10 &5 will love it!

Tiff, I had printed out this report a while ago but had never gotten around to read it until last weekend - WOW!!!

Bravissima

bookmarking

Thank you dear friends - I appreciate it.

p.s. jujubean, we love to travel in the off season. I don't know why it thrills us so but it does, so we go with that.


I believe everything is what you make of it, especially travel. Is the weather not as pleasing in the off season, perhaps, but we feel the benefits drastically out weigh any cons (or rain sprinkles, hee) you may encounter.

Happy, safe journey!

bkmkg
Can't wait to read! Thank you.

bkm

Tiff -

Thanks for such a vivd trip report. We are staying at Locando this May and I can't wait.

Jami

Hi Jami ~ You will LOVE Locanda Orseolo, they are wonderful people and will take very good care of you! Have a chocolate crepe for me, ok? I look forward to hearing all about your stay in beautiful Venice!

Thanks Tiff - I will have at least two - Just for you!

wow...what a fabulous report! LoveItaly thank you for calling it to my attention.. I sure do miss Tom ...anyone heard from him??

This makes me really WANT to go!!!! I was hemming and hawwing..for a variety of reasons but this is indeed an enchanting tale!