eigasuki

This trip had its genesis a few years ago when I first got into watching the Tour de France on TV. The racing was secondary, it was the beautiful panorama of French countryside that had me, and numerous others no doubt, vowing, “I’m going to do that one day”.

Well, last year I decided that “one day” was going to become “next year I’m really going to do it”. Unable to find any one with the time money or inclination to join me, I decided -nothing ventured nothing gained, I’ll do it myself. Planning commenced with much reading of trip reports, threads about France and scouring the net for information. Surprisingly, considering the numbers who obviously follow le Tour each year, it was very difficult to find information from others who’d done it.

I’m not really a huge cycling fan so I decided the tour wasn’t going to dominate my trip and as long as I caught a couple of stages and was in Paris for the finish, Id be happy. Little did I suspect what a momentous occasion that would be for the Aussies. Leave from work was arranged and a flight with Emirates was booked and all I had to do was wait until November when the TDF route was announced to plan my route.

Rick Steves has a three week whirlwind tour of France upon which I loosely based my trip, though in five weeks not three, and covering less territory. I agonised over whether to lease or rent a car and in the end, contrary to my original plan went with the rental as it was quite a bit cheaper even with the added costs of my “little incident” – details later. I booked a Renault Clio from Europcar, organised through http://www.driveaway.com.au/ though I was given a Fiat Punto.

So, with everything planned and booked as much as possible, and everything planned at home re work and house sitting, I was all ready to go. Last year my sister undertook a similar trip in May and almost had their flight plans disrupted by the Iceland volcano. But a volcano in Chile couldn’t affect flights between Perth and Paris could they?

rhon

I have to agree with you. We are big fans of the tour coverage on SBS. The panoramas of France are wonderful- the countryside, the chateaux, the churches in the towns and villages. We tune in to re-visit places and look at places we may get to visit in the future. For example, in 2010 we stayed for a week in Briancon and drove over the Col d'Izoard, so loved seeing it again in the coverage.

Looking forward to hearing more.

flygirl

Oh, this will be great! I was thinking of doing something similar one day - catch a number of stages on a 3+ week tour of France. My Mom and I saw the last two days of the Tour in 2009 and we're hooked.

eigasuki

Oh flygirl, your pics and trip report were very helpful in my planning.

One of the frustrations of planning was that the route isn't published until so close to the event. In November the start and finish towns are publicised and by then all those in the know have already booked out the accommodation. You have to guess how they will get from place to place.

Not knowing the area, I wasn't sure how easy it would be to get roadside. Having heard about campervans parking out for days, it sounded all a bit too hard and I thought I would have to wing it. I had lots of other things I wanted to see - it was also a "gardens" tour, and I didn't want to spend all my time waiting by the side of the road.

rhon; A few places on my itinerary were places I'd seen on TV on previous tours. And it turned out the tour visited some of the places that were on my itinerary before or after I did.

So, on your bikes...

<b>Pounding le Pavements de Paris</b>

I booked a hotel in the Latin Quarter because I was familiar with the area from my previous trip to Paris and I wasn’t a quick and easy trip in from the airport for a late evening arrival. I found the are to be quiet but with enough people around to feel quite safe, especially as it was light until about 11.00pm

Las time I was in Paris I ticked most of the must-do sights on my list so this time I was going to take my time I left the hotel with no particular plans but to follow my nose and see where I ended up. My nose suggested that the famed dogs of Paris aren't the only ones pissing on the car tyres. None the less, I meandered through my neighbourhood on the Rive Gauche until I reached the banks of the Seine. Already I had an inkling that the mere drawing of my camera from its bag has the effect of attracting hordes of people to gather between me and my intended photo - whole groups of Chinese tourists even. After a short stroll along the left bank, I crossed the river onto the Isle de la Cite, past the tourist groups gathered outside ST Chappelle and across the Pont Au Change onto the right bank. Incidentally, for all those concerned with what to wear in Paris, I couldn’t help but notice the majority were wearing jeans, sneakers, shorts and all manner of outfits. Others were wearing their national outfits - saris, African robes, Arabian robes, everything.

I wandered past the Tour St Jacques with its very pretty gardens - fuschias growing in direct sun - and onto the place Hotel de Ville where they are setting up a forest where there was an ice-rink last time I was here.

Shopping wasn't exactly my mission but the BHV department store was having a sale and I'd heard about its hardware section so in I went. In fact I was there about an hour, glad that transport issues curtailed any temptations. I did purchase a notebook as I had forgotten my travel diary.

My original intention was to visit the Centre George Pompidou but I had taken a wrong turn and thus headed into the Marais district. There is lots of interesting shopping here, small boutiques, designer stuff and funky gift shops. My historic/ educational visit for the morning was the Musee Carnavalet, which is dedicated to the history of Paris and its inhabitants in a wonderful old building or three. To quote the brochure " a wonderful collection of works of art, mementos and scale models, and reconstructed interiors provide an inspiring backdrop as visitors enjoy a rewarding stroll through the centuries." Marcel Proust's bedroom! Gorgeous gardens. Wonderful staircases. Recommended for visitors to Paris and best of all, it’s free.

http://carnavalet.paris.fr/

A need for lunch, back ache and jetlag etc meant that after a while I suffered from museum overload and went in search of sustenance. My efforts to find a deli and buy picnic supplies to enjoy in Place de Vosges failed, though many others had done just that. Many schoolchildren were playing on the play equipment and the lawns were covered with resting and lunching tourists. After I had rested back and legs and consumed my emergency muesli bar, the damp grass had dampened my clothes. On leaving I passed numerous places to buy baguettes et but settled on La Fontaine Sully, a cafe, where I had steak which mooed back at me, and pommes frites - very sustaining as required.

After leaving the cafe, I found numerous stores selling baguette, and various other comestibles suitable for al fresco dining, of course. The Marais, as well as being know for its trendy shopping, was once the Jewish ghetto and is still the Jewish area of Paris. A while back, I had seen the movie Sarah’s Key and it was sobering to realise that these events had taken place in these very streets. There were numerous plaques on buildings in memory of the occupants that had been deported – especially moving was an ecole maternelle. My destination for the afternoon was the Memorial de la Shoah, a museum dedicated to the deportation of the Jews during World War Two. There are walls engraved with the names of all who perished and there are so many of them. There is a library and multimedia research area and a permanent display, not to mention a collection of police files from the area. There is a special exhibit at the moment which is various clips and info from the Nuremberg Trials which are quite confronting. There's one guy who you see collapse during his hearing. Another guy passionately explained why they didn't resist.

This quote is on one wall;

"We put Eichmann's ashes in a jar. I was astounded to see how little they amounted to. And just then I remembered something I saw at Auschwitz: we had been brought before a huge pile of ashes. We knew what it was. This is when, as Eichmann's ashes where being poured out, I was able to imagine the many hundreds of thousands of people who had formed the pile of ashes I saw that day."

Another worthwhile site to visit in Paris. Once again free. They have pretty intense security - even to get out you have to press a button to get them to open the gate - twice.

I backtracked along Rue de Rivoli and onto my next destination, E Dehillerin, the famed cookware shop. Amazing. I don't think it's changed at all since Julia Child shopped there, unless it’s the tourists who come after seeing it in "Julie and Julia". They are certainly not in the business of exploiting the connection. The pricing is very old school- find the number of the item you want and look it up on a folder of inventory to find the price. Of course, transport issues have a way of controlling temptation but I did buy a couple of items – a silicon madeleine tray and a couple of bowl scrapers.

By now feet, legs and back were very tired. I had worn some sandals which were not up to pavement pounding. I headed for home but it wasn't that straightforward. I found myself near rue Montorgeuil, which I had recently read about, a very old market street with many cafes, boulangerie, patisserie, fromagerie, etc etc I had a lovely wander down the street, marvelling at the dogs <i>inside</i> the butchers shop. I returned past a wonderful children’s play area and then through Forum Les Halles, a huge shopping mall/ complex thing which just went on and on I thought I would never find my way out. Eventually I found an exit – amused to find a group of youths dancing to a boom box and admiring their own moves in the plate glass windows.

Back at the hotel, a short rest and change of shoes later, I treated myself to dinner at le Pre Verre, which is right opposite the hotel. Then, as it doesn't get dark until about ten, I walked along the Seine as did many others, enjoying the buskers, roller blade demos and people watching.

taconictraveler

unusual sounding trip! Though we are not bikers, we WILL be following you!

kerouac

I like the way you wander.

historytraveler

You explore Paris in much the same way I do complete with museum overload and sore feet. Haven't been to the Memorial de la Shoah but will now put it on my list. Enjoying your report.

eigasuki

Thanks folks. There's more to come

<b> It's Good To Be The King - Er Wait...</b>

The weather proving once again coolish and cloudy, but forecast to getter hotter over the next few days, it seemed if I were planning to go to Versailles, this would be the day. So after a leisurely breakfast, it was off to the station to catch the train to Versailles Rive Gauche Chateau de Versailles. Oh Japanese trains how I miss you with your cleanliness, orderly getting on and off, information boards, quiet passengers and lack of huge steps. Ah but then, you don't have accordion-playing buskers!

The train was not really all that crowded and was an interesting journey through seemingly affluent suburbia. Then we joined the throngs who'd already arrived, many by bus of course. Quite a wait in the queue to get in. It was Saturday, when there is the musical fountain show so you have to pay extra to enter the gardens. I bit disappointing, he music is just piped music and the fountains were only on an hour or so in the morning and again at 3.30. And because it was the first day of the fete spectacule ie a fireworks show, the gardens close at 5.30 and you have to pay again to get back in.

The gardens are quite something though. I thought to avoid the huge queue at the chateau by seeing the gardens first. The fountain 'show' of course finished about ten minutes after I got there. Off I went exploring the extensive network of avenues, the waterways with gondolas and rowboats and tiers of seating and people already settling in and claiming their spot for the fireworks that evening.

It's a long, long walk to the Grand Trianon and thence to the Petit Trianon and Marie Antoinette's little hamlet. These gardens are also extensive and by this time my feet and legs, already sore from the previous day, were really starting to hurt. I found it quite peaceful here - it seems to be by-passed by many and by the bus groups so it was very pleasant and I just loved Marie Antoinette's little village and farm. So picturesque, a rural idyll and you can imagine what an outlet it would have been for her to get away from the celebrity lifestyle of the big house.

Mid afternoon I hobbled back to the main house. Oh, lunch? A huge crowd at the kiosk in the crowds and also for the much-needed facilities. There was almost no line to get in to the chateau now, but once inside, the crowding was more obvious, exacerbated by a tour group whose guide liked to gather them in doorways while she explained the highlights of the next chamber. It's certainly very opulent and not at all my taste in decor. However I didn't think it was much more so than other palaces and castles I've seen, even those owned by less regal personages. After all that walking, I reckoned I deserved a coffee and pastry at Salon du The Angelina.

By now I was so weary I could hardly stand up straight, certainly too weary to consider hanging around for the night show and worrying about the crowds all cramming onto the last trains so I hobbled back to the station and back to Paris.

As I returned from the station there was activity ahead – a parade. “What’s going on? Can we go?” a small Amercian boy was asking his parents. At the risk of being an interfering busybody, I had to interrupt to inform them I suspected it was the Gay Pride march and they may wish to avoid it. I already knew the Gay Pride march was on that evening but hadn't realised it passed down Bvde St Germain - at the end of my street. What an experience! Not at all like the Sydney and Perth parades. It seemed a lot more political with fewer flamboyant costumes. A few floats crammed with beautiful young men (what a waste!) and many supporters following. Many of the floats were blowing ticker tape at the crowds and, what with the spectators drink cans, bottles and rubbish, the streets were an absolute mess. But no sooner had the parade passed, it was followed immediately by a veritable army of street sweepers who washed and vacuumed the roads and soon after it was like it had never been. All watched from my cafe table while consuming moules et frites.

And so to bed...

eigasuki

historytraveler, I hear you on the sore feet. After two days of walk, walk, walk, I decided that I would take it easy on Sunday and do more sitting down, inside stuff. Now let's see how that worked out!

After a leisurely breakfast, I headed to the station and purchased a two-day Paris Visite pass. Onto the train for a whole one stop to D'Orsay station, where I crossed the footbridge over the Seine to the Musee de l"Orangerie. Here are Monet's huge waterlillies paintings but also many others by Renoir, Cezanne, Matisse etc. No lines to get in and not many people so armed with an audio guide I sat and listened and viewed and took notes etc at my leisure. I liked that Cezanne can get away with “indifference to perspective” – for the rest of us, that’s called incompetence. I also loved that he claims “fruits like to have their portraits painted.” As for his portrait of Mme Cezanne- not flattering. I’d have made him rip it up. Wonder if she realised people would be viewing through the ages? As time passed, the crowds grew (why oh why must they take photos of the paintings- buy a print or calendar, people) and as I had had my fill of art I strolled through the Jardin des Tuilleries and enjoyed un glace. There can be no more pleasant space to while away a rather warm sunny Paris Sunday than the Tuilleries - certainly many shared my opinion.

Next I meandered up Rue Royale with its designer shops (closed as it's Sunday) to Saint Madeleine. Time for more sitting down in the cool of this historic church. Did you know Saint-Saens and Faure were organists here and at Chopins's funeral, it was the first time Mozart's Requiem was performed in Paris? Out into the heat of early afternoon and a promenade along Boulevard des Capucins past more designer shops. These included a designer cleaning equipment purveyor selling 30 euro brooms, buckets etc so your cleaning equipment doesn't lower the tone of your apartment.

My destination was the Opera de Paris Garnier. What an amazing building! So opulent, such fabulous marbles, chandeliers and such a lovely smell of beeswax. I spent a couple of hours there, including quite some time watching a rehearsal in the main auditorium. This meant it was dark and you couldn't see the gilt decor too well.

Fading fast, I realised it was way past lunchtime so I opted for the first available option, a Quick burger and fries. Well, at least it wasn't McDonalds.

Next to tick off a Paris must-do. Onto the Metro, two changes to the Arc de Triomph. BIT of a queue here but I climbed the 200+ stairs to the top - was able to take my time and it was just the right amount before fatigue and shortness of breath took hold. The view from here was certainly amazing as the avenues all radiate from this spot. It was very hot up there too. After walking down Champes Elysees as far as Louis Vuitton (Very crowded quite a few of whom were buying) I got to the "Can’t walk another step" stage and headed back to the hotel for rest time.

Refreshed, I set out for an evening cruise on the Seine, a Paris must-do, especially on a warm evening but I ended up crammed next to a young girl who I’m sure had ADHD and whose mother made no efforts to stop this girl jiggling and bumping me. My hairy eyeball had no effect at all. I then joined the throngs on the bridges waiting for the Eiffel tower to light up with its evening sparkle. Which didn't happen until 11! I was a bit nervous heading back to hotel but there were plenty of people around and I never felt threatened or unsafe.

Dinner? Well it seems I forgot about that – I had crepe somewhere and a few snacks back in the room. Memo to self- Must make time to eat

eigasuki

<b> I See Dead People</b>

This was the infamous Monday 27th June which, as others have noted in other trip reports, was horrendously hot. I’m making an escape from winter at home but this is ridiculous. SO humid. But I didn’t realise that as I set off for
the RER, a change to the Metro to Saint-Denis Basilica, resting place of the kings and queen of France. The church itself was pleasant enough with some lovely stained glass but the crypt with its recumbant statues was the place of interest. Trust Henry and Catherine of Medici to have a huge and lavish tomb as compared to others.


The area around the church wasn't that nice and not appealing in the heat so I got back on the Metro to Montparnasse,. Having been informed that a visit to the top of the tower was free, I was miffed to discover it is 10 euros . The day was very overcast -and I'd seen Paris from le Arc the previous day with much better visibility so I left that for another time.

After lunch at a great little health food café, I set off for the Cimiterie, resting place of a heap of famous people. No Maps said the stern notice at the entry but a large map gave the layout for those who’d neglected to print a copy from the website. Really it was a silly idea - much too hot for walking aimlessly for someone whose back and feet are still protesting. I did see the grave of Serge Gainsbourg - somewhat of a pilgrimage place with flowers and pics a la Jim Morrison at Pere Lachaise.

The Metro was unbearable hot and most passengers were dripping and many very red in the face and looking very distressed – I got off at the Trocadero and walked across to the Eiffel Tower. Even in the heat there was a long queue but lucky for them was in the shade of the Tower. Even the African souvenir vendors were somewhat desultory in their attempts and I saw many reclining in the nearby park - guess no-one was in a buying mood.
Armed soldiers were keeping an eye on everything in addition to a high police presence.

I found a shady spot in the Champ de Mars park and had a peaceful rest before attempting the walk to the Invalides and Napoleon's tomb. Guy had a pretty high opinion of himself if his sarcopgagus is to be taken as a measure.

I just had time for a rushed trip through the Musee d'Armee- it was about to close. I would have liked to have given it more time as I was headed for the Normandy beaches and some refreshing of my knowledge was in order.

I had dinner at a nearby cafe (must eat, must eat) and headed back for packing up and an early night . Here’s where I discover the tracks between Invalides and St Michel is closed necessitating a wait for a crowded bus. Not in my plans and so much for the straightforward trip to collect the rental car that I had planned for the next day. France here I come.

TDudette

Had to stop at

It's Good To Be The King - Er Wait...

Will come back to read more. Very enjoyable!

eigasuki

<b>On Your Bikes</b>

Ok so here it is. With much trepidation I set off to collect the car and head off for my big adventure. I’ve been heartened to read a few trip reports lately which have been frank about the trials of driving an unfamiliar car on unfamiliar roads (and a manual at that ) and dealing with a GPS with mind of its own. Not just me then.


I checked out of my hotel in Paris and schlepped my luggage to the RER C station right by the river. Yesterday there was disruptions on the train and the signs said the work continued. Now how was I getting to the Europcar depot on what was supposed to be a straightforward trip? Fortunately the signage was somewhat misleading and I was able to get there with only one easy change.

The Europcar place was easy to find (Thank you Google Earth) but there was a very long wait and it was 11.30 before I took possession of my little Fiat Punto -now called Felix and was on my way. (Felix and I never really got on and I discover it was Felix at fault – more later)

With just one stall I negotiated the Porte Maillot roundabout - there are lights giving you a chance to get into the road - and next I was heading down Grande Armee Very busy but just like any major thoroughfare and then I disappeared into a tunnel which went on and on and on. Just drive. Next the toll booth (manned and took cash so no problems there) and I was on the freeway and on and on and on.

Eventually I reached the turn off (Very soon after paying a second toll) and travelling along some very narrow roads to Vernon and thence to Giverny.

Monet’s garden was top of my must-do list and it didn’t disappoint.

Giverny was just exquisite despite the crowds - many school groups - and the awful humidity. It's cloudy so it would be nice to see it in sunshine and when the roses are at their best - they are looking a bit past their prime. I took my time and many, many photos and then visited the house. Monet had the most amazing collection of Japanese prints -they are on every wall!

I indulged in a folding umbrella to use as a parasol but was able to put it to use almost immediately. After a pleasant lunch at a very charming little cafe opposite the gardens, I went to explore the village of Giverny. The few drops of rain that had fallen occasionally turned into quite the shower.

I set Kevin (my GPS with newly acquired Europe maps) to work and after a trip around Vernon he got me back onto the motorway and off to Honfleur. Kevin had me turn off the freeway before I thought he should but we got to see some lovely little villages with charming beamed and thatched cottages, cows and sheep etc.

I found the Motel les Bleuets easily. As you come into town you can see the sign and the building itself from the road even though it is in the next road.

http://www.motel-les-bleuets.com/

I just had enough energy left to head into town and enjoy a seafood dinner at one of the cafes lining the old harbour. My Tour de France had really begun.

sap

I am enjoying this immensely, eigasuki. Nice details. Great commentary. You seem to have the same interests I do (except biking), but you saw different things. Now, I can enjoy them vicariously over coffee/wine and not have the reality of the sore feet and crowds.

I love how everybody is naming their temperamental GPS units. I wonder if it was bikerscott/jamikins who started this fun trend.

More, more, please.

kerouac

Yes, the end of June was quite hot but we paid for it with our chilly July and August before hitting the heat jackpot in September.

eigasuki

Thanks, sap.As I commented on your own trip report I could totally identify with some of your impressions and experiences - especially with driving, hire car and GPS hassles. I had different impressions of Pont de Gard and Vaison la Romaine.

Oddly, GPS Kevin Garmin(named after the former Australian PM, Kevin Rudd, eho so generously extended a financial stimulus payment to us to help stave off the GFC) doesn't have a male voice option. He's been "Kevin" since 2008.

kerouac, there were only a couple of days where the heat was unpleasant and hampered my plans and that was one of them. Most of the time it was hot, sure, but an air conditioned car was a welcome retreat. In fact, for the latter part of my trip I booked places with pools and seldom got to use them.

So, the driving part of the trip starts in earnest;

<b>A Norman(dy) Conquest </b>

Felix and I set off after a leisurely breakfast and into Honfleur. Perfect weather for sightseeing, a light breeze, cool enough for jeans and joggers, sunny enough for reasonable pictures. I walked around town admiring all the historic buildings with their designer and tourist shops and cafes, though found walking on the uneven cobblestones hard on my Paris-weary feet. Honfleur was just gorgeous though a less cynical personal than I might be tempted to use the words 'quaint' or 'cute' or even 'twee'. I loved it – the colour palette, the half timbered buildings, the flower-festooned fishing nets decorating houses, the flowers everywhere.

After a while I caught the little tourist train which was 6 euros well spent though the only words of the commentary I understood were 'a droit' and 'a gauche'. It rambled around some of the more hilly streets before heading up into the hills to Cote de Grace at d’Equemauville to visit Sainte Catherine’s, a lovely old church which is a pilgrimage site and has a great view. A great way to see the sites, including cows and ye olde cowsheds without having to drive myself (thus far have been too busy watching the road and changing gears to do much looking at the passing scenery) Then we travelled past many mansions which were the summer retreats of wealthy Parisians in times past, though they no doubt had a better view of the mouth of the Seine than that enjoyed by the present incumbents, who have lovely views of the industry and port of Le Havre. Also had great views of the Pont de Normandie. Should probably have put on my 'bridge crossings of the world' itinerary but missed that chance. C'est la vie.

Reunited with Felix, Kevin was set to action and we headed off down the coast through very charming countryside, though rather a winding narrow road, until I found myself in the midst of Deauville No doubt Kevin (GPS) didn’t realise how very much I did not want to go right through the very centre of Deauville etc, past all the holiday makers lunching at the cafes. Sure is a lovely looking town/resort but narrow streets and lots of traffic = pretty stressful. On down the coast past endless seaside resorts, not for the economy-minded I'm guessing.
One town seems to join the next as seems to happen though what I saw of the actual beaches didn't look that impressive.

Back on more major roads and suddenly I was in the midst of Caen - I somehow missed the signs for the peripherie (by pass ) and headed for Bayeux Unfortunately Kevin did not realise that the Hotel Churchill is located in a pedestrian street ( the hotel website didn't make that clear either ) so I spent sometime navigating the narrow crowded streets of Bayeux before finally finding the hotel and its cramped carpark. Phew.

Bayeux is all about the Tapisserie of course and that at least was easy to find, located as promised very near the hotel. The tapestry (which is really an embroidery) is very detailed and there's an interesting and included in the price audio commentary. Then there was a very interesting, for me, exhibition of a Japanese e-maki (ie scrolls) which had interesting comparisons with the tapestry in that it told a story in sequence in much the same way. Then there's a short video about the tapestry - a good example of a tourist facility, well organised and good explanations - in English even. I was there so long I started to be afraid of being locked in.

On leaving I made my next stop the cathedral and a little wander around downtown Bayeux. Then dinner at a little place near the hotel, where I had some local specialities - cider, pork with Pommeau etc. I wasn’t tempted by the “stomach fast guts in cream sauce “(ie tripe- maybe English menu isn’t always helpful.

So that was Wednesday - at least I think was Wednesday. One loses track so.

eigasuki

<b> Boys’ Day Out</b>

Knowing I had a busy day ahead, I got going a bit earlier than I have been thus far. Breakfast was not included in the room rate but when I saw the lovely breakfast room/conservatory and choices available I decided to fuel up for the day.

First stop was Arromanches but not before a few wrong turns resulting in me exploring more country lanes and tiny villages than was strictly necessary. Arromanches is where Port Winston was built, also known as the Mulberries and you can still see the concrete blocks on which the prefabricated harbour they built for D Day rested. Amazing that they towed all these platforms and portable wharves over from Britain and assembled them there, those that survived the crossing. A whole lot of old merchant ships formed a sort of outer protective 'harbour'.

There is a D Day museum there which gives an interesting account of the process and has models along with other displays of the Allied effort. For those of us who hadn’t read up on the whole D-Day story, it was very informative.

Next stop was the German bunkers at Longues sur Mer. They have a great outlook over the beaches - you can see for miles and it's eerie because there are fields of lupins and corn and wheat nearly ready for harvest, poppies and other flowers growing along the edges of the crops by the roadside, grazing cows, birds squawking above, a stone village with church spire in the background, so peaceful. At that time of the morning I was nearly alone in my wanderings and it was hard to imagine that it was once a battleground. On one of the bunkers, a group of British schoolchildren was posing for photos - what a great experience for students learning this way.

There’s a lot more to see and there’s a whole industry devoted to the D Day tourists. Lots of guys doing the rounds, often by motorbike, and the camper-van crowd are out in force. All the attractions have dedicated camper-van parking areas which are already well utilised.

A brief stopover for a snack at the seaport of Port-en-Bessin-Huppein and then onto Omaha Beach and the American cemetery. There's a visitors centre there with a large reflective pool overlooking the ocean and very "patriotic" displays and info. Some profiles of selected personnel and the iconic gun and helmet that I'm sure you've all seen. Some moving live action footage of actual battles in the area. Then you walk through a tunnel hearing the names of those buried there and you go out to the cemetery. What's most moving is the sheer extent of the graves. We've all seen pictures but it can't prepare you for the extent of the crosses and stars and to realise how young most of them were –each someone’s son, father, husband, brother etc.

It's immaculately maintained - at one part on the edge of the area, they were trimming the branches of a tree. There was a guy in a suit supervising the workers and they were placing the trimmings on sheets of tarpaulin placed on the lawn so as respect the graves (I assume).

I then walked down to the beach itself. So peaceful ; once again you could sense the contrast between as it is, and has been, except for those few fateful weeks. In the words of the soldiers quoted at the Arromanches museum "The ramp lowered and we descended into hell".

Along the road further and I stopped at another of the D Day landing museums. This one was real amateur time by comparison. Basically a large shed like a country town hall just stuffed with memorabilia of all sorts.. Outside, some of the actual landing boats and equipment .

Onward, this time to Pointe du Hoc and the Ranger monument. This was the most interesting place –it’s a headland where the Germans had another lot of batteries - Awesome views of the coast in both directions on top of a cliff and thought to be impregnable, However the Rangers climbed the cliffs and took possession, Unfortunately they didn't get the back up they needed and lives were lost. The ground is riddled with holes and there's a memorial to the Rangers. In fact the whole coastline has many memorials to various battalions.

Last stop for the day - and quite a lot further along was St Mere Eglise, the church where the parachutistcs were stuck on the church spire. In fact there's a parachute there still, as the town milks its claim to fame.

The day was marching on so I headed south on some fantastic roads through Saint Lo (scene of heavy fighting) Luckily the freeway bypasses it and I eventually reached Avranches, my home for the night. Of course Kevin had trouble finding the place - took me off the freeway prematurely and made me go right through the town, which like many is on the top of the hill and riddled with tiny streets which look like they should be one way but aren't and take off at crazy angles which Kevin can't quite seem to figure out.

Eventually we found the hotel and decided to just stay put and indulge in dinner there. The restaurant. is a lovely old stone room with gleaming brass and copper pots everywhere. I had the 25 euro menu – five courses including an amuse bouche . Definitely the best meal I had had thus far on my trip. Most of the clientele had dressed up for dinner and the restaurant is much fancier than the rooms.

http://www.hoteldelacroixdor.fr/

The hotel has a lovely flower filled courtyard where you could sit and relax. The Tour de France will pass very near it on Stage 6 Dinan to Lisieux - July 7. Seeing the notices advising the road closures was my first ‘contact’ with le Tour and was very exciting and now I was seeing cyclists riding the route - in fluoro vests and bike shorts and campervans with bikes on the back.

eigasuki

<b>In Which Kevin Disgraces Himself and is Given The Sack </b>

This was possibly the most stressful day of my trip. After planning for over a year, researching and collating, I had a vast number of resources saved on my home computer, But the weeks before my departure were busy at work and I got a case of tour-planning overload. Consequently, I hadn’t had a chance to print out all the documents and maps which I’d prepared. And something went wrong in transeferring the data to my memory stick and netbook. Result, things I knew I should know, but couldn’t remember or access. But that’s a problem for another time. The day started pleasantly enough.
I set off from Avranche. I set off quite early as I had a big day ahead. Down the long sweeping hill out of Avranches , following the route of the Tour de France , though the boys will go UP it.

I was at the Mont by 9 and already the crowd was building up. It’s one of those sights that impress from your first – “OMG there it is glimpse” along the road. The tide was well out and not due in until 6 in the evening – there are stern signs advising you - don't say you weren’t warned.

I spent a happy hour and a bit in the Abbey with audioguide and then walked along the ramparts before sitting down to grab something to eat before my long trek across country. My cappucchino arrived with mountain of cream soon enough but I waited and waited for my crepe. It seems when your coffee and bill arrive, you’re expected to lay down your money before you get the food All the while the bells were tolling and it was pleasant enough but they had a photographer there taking some pictures - for some publicity and they were fussing with getting all the umbrellas lined up etc. I think my crepe had sat forgotten on a bench for a while.

Eventually I got to "spent 50c" and I was on my way. Not before nearly making a stupid mistake– I nearly posted my postcard in a rubbish bin , realised just in time and as a concerned passer-by pointed out the error in my ways.

First stop to get petrol First, go through my check-list.- Remember which side fuel cap is on, remember to put diesel in (ah but they don't call it diesel). Oh how to unlock the fuel cap. Once again the kindness of strangers came to the fore as the poor girl attempting to get her own fuel got interrupted by some useless Aussie woman trying to operate the fully automated bowser.- Put credit card in, and fortunately it works. Answer a whole lot of questions.(Do I want a ticket? Yes, you do) Freak slightly at the 138 euros displayed on the screen before realising that was how much I was authorised to put in; did Get my ticket (ie a receipt) etc. All the while the cycle-laden campervan brigade en route to Brittany for the TDF start are queueing up behind. No pressure

So now I have petrol, one worry less. Tell Kevin my next destination, Fourgeres, and off we go. Well I'm a bit suspicious when we pass the sign heading to Fougere, and after sending me to the station car-park and other random directions I decide to override his choice, but no, he insists and the "recalculations lead me though a narrow country lane past an isolated farm and full circle back to Pontsoron. Oh he must want me to go by the main road I think,so I relent and we head onto the freeway and - you guessed it, north. After a while, and too late to do anything about it, as stuck on the autoroute, I’m back in Avranches! Seems I had never completed the request to get to Avranches the previous day. Must learn how to cancel instructions no onger needed.

Well its only about 30 kms but what a waste of time and resources, not to mention the strain on my nerves! And the driving was pleasant enough. I arrived in Fougere quite a bit later than I'd planned so I didn’t enter the Chateau but did the town walk. What a lovely place - all so historic and picturesque and flowers everywhere. Being me,did I go to the TI for information? No, I did the town walk in the wrong direction so had to go up a really steep path to the church and town centre on the top of the hill. Fougeres is a lovely place and really quiet compared to other places I've been. It seems to be overlooked in all the tourist guides and there were very few tourists in evidence. A bit sad really, lots of closed up shops all gone out of business and houses which seemed unoccupied. Go visit Fougere.

One of the things on my hit list is the tapestry in Angers . Could I make it? I decided it was just possible and headed off in that direction. A pretty straight run on well signposted roads, so it seemed it would be easy. Except for the roadworks, the fact that it was Friday and the start of holidays, for some etc. And rondepoint after rondepoint after rondepoint. The countryside gradually changed too, fewer flowers in the villages, a much more familar palette of colours. Very agricultural with wheat harvest in progress and fields of sunflowers replacing the lupins further west. Going through Laval was slow going past industrial areas with many slow trucks and the usual going through a city stop-start even though we were on the main arterial roads.

I made to Angers just before 5 and realised, I couldn’t remember where the tapestry actually was. On seeing the narrow streets crowded with buses and people and suspecting that the museum might close at 5 ( though many things are open later - Bayeux was open till 6.30) I decided, after all that, to give it a miss.

Well not much further to go and the autoroute would make it quick so onto the motorway and I'm speeding towards Tours. Easy, right? Until I get to the end of the toll-free section and , wouldn’t you know it, the machine won't accept my card. People are queueing behind – it’s peak hour of course.. Stress out. Press the help button and a torrent of French is no help Eventually an attendant comes out, tries my card without luck. My other card is buried deep in my suitcase in the boot. Should I try that or give him cash?- I profer my last 20 euro note rather than count out coins. He takes it and tells me to go to a parking area and sit and wait for my change. Eventually some woman comes over and starts talking at me. She speaks no English and seems to be asking me what the hell I'm doing there. Eventually I mime and write down the cost of the toll and 20 euros and the amount I'm waiting for She had my change all along.

By now I'm getting anxious that I wont get to the hotel by check in - Try to phone and get a recorded message in a loop which doesn't allow me to leave a message- the print out says between 4 and 6.30. I'm cutting it fine but no worries, I'll only be a little bit late. Not trusting Kevin any more, I take a wrong turn on the ring road around Tours which heads south and there's no signage that looks promising and no turn offs. I'm only about 30 kms from destination but how to get there. I end up in Loches, which looks to be a lovely place for another time but now? The road out of town towards Amboise is through the narrow streets that line most routes in and out of these towns from the days of horse and cart. I’m still having trouble with the gears and shy on the right side of the car- not anxious to scrape the car on the parked cars and stone walls which seem to jump out in front of me.

Eventually I make it to Amboise and of course, can’t find the street and have to relent and give Kevin another chance. I get there about 8, relieved to find, they still have my room and there wasn't anything to worry about. The manager (owner?) is really friendly and helpful and carries my luggage up to the second floor. A bit old and shabby but pleasant enough. Dinner is offered at La Breche but this night I walked to a pizza place for some pasta.,An early night would have been good but there was a rock concert on which didn't finish till about one o'clock. It seems there was a festival all weekend.

http://www.labreche-amboise.com/

I’ve become a fan of staying in places that offer an evening meal. For a solo traveller, it’s a great option after a long day of touring. Relax, have drink or two and no worries about getting home safely.

eigasuki

<b> Today I Don't Feel Like Doing Anything</b>

I’d spent a goodly part of the last three days in the car and the radio station I had been listening to, the only one I’ve found with good reception, seemed to have just a few songs on continuous loop - So Jet-lagged, Last Friday Night, something about Sound of the Fiesta, I Just Want to Make You Sweat and Bruno Mars’ “Today I Don’t Feel Like Doing Anything.” So that was my theme song.

I’d planned Amboise as a central location where I could have a car-free rest day if needed. And I needed it! I made a leisurely start, sorting out laundry, updating my blog and dealing with emails, repacking luggage , sorting photos etc. Nice and chilled About eleven I ambled into town and wandered around the streets thronged with tourists and the shops and stalls which cater for them. Then what do you know, lunch time and time to find a table at one of the many cafes around the base of the Chateau and enjoy a leisurely lunch (last two days have had fruit, snacks etc on the go.) It was ideal weather for it, sunny with light wind keeping temperatures comfortable in the shade of the umbrella.

After lunch I toured the chateau which I really enjoyed, taking my time and lots of photos, mainly of details in the carving on the fireplaces. I enjoyed the rooms sparsely decorated in medieval styles rather than the more ornate ones of latter eras. The views from the terraces are extensive of course but just as interesting is the opportunity to peek into people’s gardens and courtyards. The chateau itself has a pleasant garden area .

The chateau seems to have quite a lot of concrete and modern stone work so I don’t know how much of it is authentic. Closer inspection of some of the older style houses in town reveal that at least some of them are reproductions. There are also dwellings built into the rock of the hill on which the chateau was built.

After all that exertion, it was time for un glace and back to the hotel for a rest and to watch the Tour de France stage one on TV. It’s a hard life being a tourist. A bit of chillin on my bed , then dinner in the courtyard and back to the Chateau for the evening at “la Cour du Roy” the "Grand Spectacle Nocturne" son et lumiere. It didn't start till nearly 11 (when it finally gets dark.) and I might have given it a miss if I’d realised that. Parts were really great, others dragged a bit especially when you couldn't understand the commentary.

Presented by "the residents of Amboise" it featured everyone from 8 to 80, including horses, small not-very-good gymnasts, lots of dances, images projected on the wall etc. One place where the dance was a country dance, everyone in the crowd stomped along with some enthusiasm - obviously a favourite known to all. The show competed with the rock music which has pounded through the town day and night and another fireworks show somewhere else. Eventually we had our own fireworks and I walked back to the hotel, there to discover my key wouldn't turn! Breathe deep, try again. I finally got it to work and of course then some other guests arrived - carting sleeping children so lucky for them I was there to hold the heavy metal gate open. More rock music - all night at lower volume but the beat goes on......

TDudette

OK, I'm all caught up. Very enjoyable report. Googled Amboise and the castle pictures are formidable. It and the Bayeux Tapestry are still on my travel wish list.

Welcome to the annoyed at the GPS club!

eigasuki

Kevin had a workout today at home just for fun. The car I was in has built in GPS so we had dueling GPSs So funny as they were a couple of hundred metres out of sync.And they both wanted to go a different way to the route we always take.