DUBLIN: a "MUST-SEE" or a WASTE of time?

I liked Dublin, mainly because it's on the sunny side of Ireland. But also because of the connections with great literature - from the remarkable Book of Kells to James Joyce and Oscar Wilde - and my friend's friend, a famous Irish playwright. We had some wonderful food.

So Dublin means for me great literature, great conversation, good friends, and terrific food.

Your visit to any place to what you make it. Hope you will find Dublin a must-see also!

I live here so I think its great but its not everyones cup of tea. Dublin is a small city and very walkable. There is enough to keep you busy for 2 days and relax before you head home. What are your interests and what do you like to do? This will give us a better idea for suggestions for you.

S

I loved Dublin and can't really see how anyone could dislike it! There's plenty to keep you busy for 2 days and plenty of great restaurants. You can't go to Ireland and miss it!

Made my first trip to Ireland (11 days) about a month ago and spent only 2 days and nights in Dublin. I loved Dublin and plan to spend more time there next time. Great food, great great people, great pubs, great traditional Irish music, great parks.......I thought it was great!

Larry J

Dublin is great. There are some fine historical walking tours of the city that leave from the Trinity College gate, on Grafton St. I believe. Some tours cover general Irish history and others cover 1916 in particular.

Let me echo everyone else: I loved Dublin. Wonderful museums, great walking tours, lovely people, and just a really nice city.

I loved Dublin as well -- it's such a nice little city! It's bizarre seeing a downtown without skyscrapers, though --

I've been there both trips to Ireland, and will be going again next trip, but only for a couple days. There are LOTS of other places to see and things to do, even just in that area, other than the city. North to Newgrange or Trim, south to Glendalough or Dun Loughaire --

In answer to your posted question, Dublin is neither a 'must see' nor 'a waste of time'. I wouldn't, for example, drive all the way from the west coast to spend time there. But if it came logically at the end of a great two weeks of travelling in other parts of Ireland, why not?

We spent three days there, which in no way qualifies me as an expert on Dublin. As a tourist, however, we found some bits interesting (Book of Kells, St. Stephen's Green, Temple Bar area, etc.), but didn't leave with an overall impression of a fascinating city that we'd be yearning to return to.

Onerof the favorite sites my husband and I visited in Dublin was Kilmainham Jail. The jail was built by the occupying British and was in use from 1798 to 1920. Many historical Irish figures were imprisoned here, most notably the leader of the 1918 Easter Uprising. The jail really gives you a sense of Irish history and the hardships that the Irish people endured.

Thanks for the feedback on Dublin! WHERE did you Dublin-lovers stay in Dublin? Sometimes this can make a big difference.

EASYTRAVELER: Where did you go in Dublin and what did you do to celebrate Dublin's connections with great literature? I love writing and reading!

SIOBHANP: Great to hear from a local! Would love to hear a local's view of your favorite places in Dublin. I'll be travelling with biologist hubby and 2 young adult daughters. That makes 3 writers in the family and 2 avid readers. Our interests are Irish history, culture, music, and dance. I want to experience what's authentically Irish (not touristy). We also love interesting and unique shops and cool bookstores. Would enjoy pubs or restaurants where we might meet some locals. My Irish grandmother has passed on a love and deep curiosity regarding Ireland to me. Thanks for any input! Also, if you had to stay in a Dublin hotel, which neighborhood/hotel would you pick?!

LARRYJ: What were your favorite spots in Dublin to hear traditional Irish music? Your 2 favorite restaurants? Your fav park? Glad you enjoyed Dublin.

GREENDRAGON: A city without skyscrapers, YES! I love it already. (Skyscrapers make me feel claustrophobic.) Can you recommend a hotel in Dublin in a great neighborhood? You have been to Dublin twice, so what are your favorite memories (pub? restaurant? museum? Anything that stands out for you.) Thanks!

RICKMAV: Thanks for your opinion. Yes, Dublin fits logically into the itinerary, as it's most convenient for us to fly into Shannon and out of Dublin.

MNAPOLI: Interesting that you would mention Killmainham Gaol. I am drawn to visit it for the sense of history I think it will give us. did you by any chance visit the Book of Kells and the National Museum as well? If so, for you, how did they compare?

Please help me prioritize Dublin sites as we will only have 2 nights there which is 1 full day of touring. Here are some we'd like to see:

-Killmainham Gaol
-Book of Kells
-National Museum
-Dublin Writer's Museum
-traditional Irish music
-walk: historical area
-Grafton St. shops
-Temple bar area
-Number Twenty-Nine Georgian House

Any ideas of how to trim this list to a great do-able full day visit? (Spending 2 nights in dublin.) Thanks a million!

Melissa--
My friends and I were able to spend only one day in Dublin. We took the hop on/off bus tour, which we actually liked (there was an actual person narrating). We had a good overview of the city and could walk around when we wanted to. Don't miss the Book of Kells. It's amazing! Enjoy your trip!
b

Melissa:
Let me just tell you I returned from Ireland two days ago and I was in the same sort of situtation. Many people were telling me to skip Dublin and it was crowded, dirty and a waste I COULDN'T DISAGREE MORE!! We had a blast in Dublin and decided to stay a third night instead of the original two. However, the only reason we chose the third night was because we arrived late on the first day and didnt have much of a chance to see the city so it really was more like two full days. Personally, we did alot of shopping in St. Stephans Green and Temple Bar. But I would say the Book of Kells is a must!!! We also went to the National Museum and Guiness Factory which I also think is a must. I am not a big Guiness drinker myself but I thought the seven story factory with all the info was great! ENJOY DUBLIN.

Great responses, thanks so much!

BTEWALT: I want to take that hop-on, hop-off bus too. It's a bonus that the narrator is a real person.

SURVFAN: Did you like the St. Stephen's Green and Temple Bar areas better for shopping/strolling than Grafton St., if we have to choose? I'm glad you had a blast and didn't let the dire predictions stop you from seeing for yourself if you'd like it. ANY ADVICE on how to make the most out of Dublin? Am especially interested in a Dublin visit which leaves me feeling like, Hey, I couldn't have experienced this anywhere else...this is unique.

THANKS EVERYBODY for both the positive and negative comments! When I put both together, I really get a more realistic feel for Dublin and your experiences will help everybody reading this post!

Melissa,

I'm back from Ireland just yesterday after a 10 day trip. We covered Dingle, Kinsale, Cashel and Dublin (in Dublin 3 nights). Our plans took us in different directions, in the areas north and south of the City. We spent one day driving up from Cashel and stopping at Glendaloch along the way; spent a day going to New Grange and most of the third day doing a cliff walk from Greystone to Bray and eating in Dalky. That left us a half day to do the Jail, the Book of Kells, and Trinity College tour. The jail was the most interesting. I only had to wait about 10 minutes to get into see the book of kells. The library above that area was more interesting to me and if you are rushed for time or lines are long, I would skip the Book of Kells.
The stores close pretty early so we didn't get much shopping in, but did get to Grafton Street and the Temple Bar Inn. Music doesn't start till 9:30 and we were always too tired to get that far.

Your itinerary sounds pretty rigorous to me (much like the one I set up.) Mostly what I heard from my traveling companions (my sister, nephew and his girlfriend) was that we were on too much of a schedule. By the time, we got to Dublin, they were ready to just "chill". We were all exhausted.

That's probably more than you wanted to know. I did enjoy Dublin, but didn't get enough time. Next time I would make sure I do the hop on/hop off bus, be moe spontaneous and go back to top three the places that interested me most.

Melissa5,
I will be going on my 1st trip this October and am planning 3 nights in Dublin, 2 days of sightseeing and will let you know what happened.

Please forgive the interruption to your thread, I just gotta know....

SURVFAN: So...did you love it? Where did you end up staying in Dublin and Doolin? Did you get to Dingle? Very relieved to hear your thoughts on Dublin as I was feeling the same doubts about the time there. Thanks!

Answer to Melissa5:

The Temple Bar district provided all the traditional music I needed; as for restaurants I prefer to eat in Pubs so I can meet local people. I made friends with a great older guy (my age) who operates a horse and carriage service in town and met a really nice young 30 ish couple who invited me to Wales next year. For a great park you can't beat the beautiful St. Stephens Green park. I spend 3 months a year in France but now I must give Ireland two weeks each spring including the Connemarra, Dingle, Kenmare, Tralee and of course Dublin.

Larry J

Hi, Melissa!

For Oscar Wilde, I really enjoyed his statue in Merrion Square. The statue is kind of hidden behind trees and bushes from the busy streets. One side of the statue's face is smiling and the other side is sad. Near the statue were a couple of low stone pillars carved with some of his wonderful, pithy sayings: "A cynic is a man who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing." Great literary genius, but such a sad life.

James Joyce: there's a bust of him in St Stephen's Green.

My favorite James Joyce site was the Martello Tower at Sandycove. The Towers themselves have quite a history, having been built to defend Ireland against Napoleon. Joyce actually lived in a part of one tower with two other young men. You can visit the small room where all three of them were crammed. Downstairs is a Joyceana where you can buy copies of his books, etc. The area around the Tower is quite attractive, however, Sandycove may be too far for a one day visit to Dublin.

I highly, highly, highly recommend the hop on/hop off bus. Some of those bus drivers are hilarious.

I also highly, highly, highly recommend the Book of Kells. Try to get there early. I had the opposite impression, the library upstairs was just "OK" for me but the Book of Kells was an outstanding experience.

We stayed with our friends, so I can't recommend any hotels. Also our friends chose the restaurants, so I don't remember the names of the restaurants. I do remember one day, when we were on our own, we went into a Wagamama's and my overriding impression was "Oh, Aghhhh! Is THIS what some Europeans consider as Asian food? Oh,Arghhhh! Aghhhh!" Otherwise, the restaurants, big or small, were all great.

Have a great trip!

LARRYJ: Thanks for telling me about your favorite places in Dublin. I agree meeting the locals is an important part of travelling. Happy world travels. I just impulsively bought a book called "1001 Natural Wonders You Must See Before You Die." Gorgeous photos, great way to get ideas for more trips!

EASYTRAVELER: Thanks for an intriguing glimpse into the literary side of Dublin. I think we will start off our day with a morning visit to see the Book of Kells. I have to see where that hop-on, hop-off bus goes to, and where it doesn't go.

With only 1 full day I really need to prioritize sites! I'm trying to pick all of your brains so I can figure out what our priorities might be! We might get 1 full day and 1 half-day as well (2 nights).

We have to pre-plan because we each have different interests and that way everybody is assured of seeing something that interests them.

If it were up to me alone, we might spend the whole day seeing "literary" Dublin!

12 perfect days:

I loved Ireland and everything I saw. We did not make it out to Dingle as I was told by many to skip it because of the bank holiday crowds but other than that had a blast. We did b&b most the way except in Dublin ( Burlington Hotel) which was very nice and stayed one night in Killarney at the Great Southern Hotel. I really enjoyed Killarney, the national park, Ross Castel and the shopping there. Killarney was def a tourist area but I think worth it.

Melissa:

I prefered Temple Bar for shopping but whatever you decided to do dont get to stressed and have fun that is the important thing.

I really enjoyed the National Museum. Seeing the gold jewelry and pieces from far earlier times is fascinating. It makes sense to believe in the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow, when folks uncover these treasures. Also, walking through the University library and seeing the National Harp sticks in my mind.

SURFVAN: we won't have any trouble finding interesting things to do for 2 nights (1 full day) in Dublin. Sounds like you planned a great trip!

DANNA: I'd like to see the National Museum for insight into history/culture. How many hours did you spend there? Also, where is that harp you mentioned...is the University library at Trinity College? You mean the same library where they have the book of Kells? Thanks!

I think 2 nights in Dublin will be just right for us, long enough to see something but not long enough to get tired of the city.

Hearing everyone's views on Dublin is helping me figure out what we would enjoy or NOT enjoy there.

I second (third?) the suggestion for the hop-on, hop-off bus. My guide sang to us several times during the tour -- it was great!

I really enjoyed the trip through Phoenix Park, as well as just strolling downtown and people-watching. I also loved the shopping, and I'm NOT a big shop-a-holic.

My two times in Dublin didn't involve staying IN Dublin -- once I was in a B&B north of Dublin, and once in a B&B in Dun Loughaire, south of Dublin. I rented a car both times, and yes, I drove in Dublin. That was my first time driving on the left, too! I survived (and I was alone... no navigator).

The people are the best part. They are delightful, friendly, and musical, far more than Americans are. They truly do sing at the drop of a hat. Yes, there are kitschy areas of Dublin, but some of them still appeal to me, being a tourist.

One of the most peaceful moments was watching the sunrise on the beach at Dun Loughaire.

I think 2 nights is perfect. Enough to see the city but you also leave a good amount of time to see the explore the best parts of the country Sounds like a great itinerary. I'm jealous

Hi, Melissa!

The Dublin bus has its own website. Just google/yahoo "Dublin hop on bus" and you should be able to access the website. The buses are very frequent: about every 10 or 15 minutes. Beware, however, that they advertise the entire loop as being about an hour and half - well, NOT during peak traffic hours!

If you all have different interests, you might split up and each stop off where each one wishes. The loop covers all the major sightseeing locations. Meet up at night for dinner or back at the hotel.

Have a fine trip!

Yep, in Trinity College, above the Book of Kells. This just looks like a library you want to be able to climb up the ladders and poke about!

Everyone's answers are a real EYE-OPENER as I never expected so much interest in Dublin. Many thanks!

GREENDRAGON: I want a singing bus-driver too! Big cultural difference there. Can you imagine a bus driver or guide in the USA singing? How cool...I've heard some singing cooks in the USA, but they are usually foreign-born...Do we just stifle the songs out of people here in the USA?

Greendragon, which did you enjoy more, staying just north of Dublin or staying just south of Dublin? Do you recommend a particular B&B? Can you advise me on the following options:

I'm debating whether to stay in Dublin, within walking distance of some major sites, and near the hop-on, hop-off bus route...
OR AS AN ALTERNATIVE stay in Dun Laoghaire for 2 nights, take the DART into Dublin for the day, and also enjoy an evening of Irish song & dance near Dun Laoghaire held by "Comhaltas Ceoltoiri Eireann" at the Cuturlann na Eireann near the Seapoint DART stop (www.comhaltas.com). Ahhhhh! These Irish names are challenging!!!!!

By staying in Dun Laoghaire we'd probably see a bit less of Dublin though. Also we'd probably arrive later to the Book of Kells, and have to deal with more crowds.

EASYTRAVELER: Good to know the hop-on hop-off Dublin buses run so frequently, every 10 or 15 minutes. Very convenient.

DANNA: So that's 3 reasons to see Trinity College: the Book of Kells, the old library, and the national harp. Sounds good to me.

Thanks everyone!

Hi Melissa.

I love south Dublin, it's where I stay with friends when I visit. However, as you have only 2 days and a pretty full itinerary I would stay in the centre if I were you. You could always use the Dart to go to Dun Laoghaire and attend the song and dance evening.

I havn't read all of your posts but the National Museum in Dublin is actually 3 different Museums

Collins Barracks in Benburb Street - Arts, social and political History.

The Archaeological Museum in Kildare Street - Celtic Viking and Medieval Art.

The Natural History Museum in Merrion Street - stuffed animals

The Archaeological and natural History museums are close by but Collins Barracks is on the other side of the Liffy.

Helen

The suspense is terrible. I hope it will last.

The B&B I stayed at in Dun Loughaire was in one of those voucher books -- I didn't keep good notes on that (my first) trip to the UK, so I don't know which it was. It was clean and pleasant, but nothing spectacular.

I very much enjoyed the area of Dun Loughaire more than the area I was in north of Dublin. It is more laid back and gracious, IMHO -- I stayed near a fort on the coast.

Somwhere at home I have a photo of our singing tour-guide. here's the excerpt about him in my travelogue at www.greendragonartist.com/TDCireland.html :

Out of Trinity College, and onto the nearest bus stop for the on-again-off-again city tours. We got our all-day tickets, and did our first round of sightseeing. We passed the Guinness factory, Phoenix Park and Zoo, and of course the famous statue of Molly Malone. Our tour guide had a wicked sense of humour, even though you could tell most of his jokes were pre-written and standard for the guides. However, he also serenaded us with a selection of songs, including 'Molly Malone'. In addition to his wonderful singing, he told us of one of the nicknames of the famous statue: "The Tart with the Cart". He showed us the statues of two other ladies, with shopping bags on a nearby bench, called "The Hoors near the Sewers" or "The Hags with the Bags!".

He was great! Email me at greendragon@bellsouth.net and I'll send you his pic, so you can pick and choose him on your trip

Hi Melissa I have been away and just caught this.

Ok do try the hop on/off bus as it fits most things you want to see. for Music try the Musical Pub crawl at the Oliver St John Gogherty in Tewmple Bar or try O'Donoghues in Merrion Street. It gets crowded and they pub is a bit old but it can be fun.

There is a literary Pub crawl most evenings starting at the Duke Pub on Duke Street off Grafton Street. And the bigger book shops are Eason's on O'Connell Street or Kildare street has Hodges Fidgus and Waterstones opposite sides of the road from eachother.

The Chester Beatty Library behind Dublin Castle is my favourite place. It houses the largest collection of Asian Arts in Europe, has a Fantastic gift shop with all sorts of unusual items and the cafe has great food with a med/arabic belnd. I love the felafel and their coffee. I would put this on my list!

For accommodation I assume you will need 2 rooms...well there are a wealth of place but I would avaod Temple Bar due to noise factors but I need a price range from you as I could give you hundreds and many areas are nice to stay in. For example an adorable small hotel on Northumberland road is the Schoolhouse (It was once) or Jurys in Ballsbridge/Christchurch. Or blow the bank and stay at the fourseasons . Give me a guideline and I can help better.

There is a book shop on either S. Anne Street or Duke Street (Both off Grafton St) that sells old books and is interesting. They are helpful if you have anything specific you are looking for and helped my uncle find a book from his schooldays.

The park in Merrion Square where the statue of Wilde resides is wonderful and a little haven. Artists shpw their painting here at the weekends and there is some nice artwork on show...and some awful stuff too!

I've been to Dublin 2 times and are planning to go back for 3 days next May. Dublin I think is a must -- just don't try to drive it. It holds so many things to do and see. The energy there is great. I've seen different things both times I was there.

carkat

Hi there,

I stayed at the Morrison hotel which was very nice and central. I think we got a special deal from lastminute.com as otherwise I think it is a little pricey.
Kate

HELEN: I think you are right, I will stay in Dublin but try to take the Dart into Dun Laoghaire for an evening of song and dance. Since we only have 2 nights in Dublin that makes the most sense. (Though Dun Laughaire is VERY tempting to stay in...)

Helen, thanks for mentioning the National Museum is 3 museums and not all the same location...naturally, hubby will choose the Natural History museum, I will choose the social and political history museum, and daughters would probably prefer the Archaeological Museum. Have you seen all 3, and does anybody have a suggested amount of time to spend in each one? (I have been in museums that you can see in 1 or 2 hours and others which take all day...)

GREENDRAGON: Your Dublin singing tour guide sounds fun. I dived head-first into Irish geneology research and haven't had time to e-mail you yet (or Helen either!) Thanks for the great tips and also your enthusiasm is catching!

SIOBHANP: I appreciate your recommendations for Dublin musical pubs, and good bookstores are always #1 on my list. Yep, hard to drag me out, but hubby will manage. (But I will have to drag him out of the Natural History museum!)

SiobhanP, I'd love your B&B or hotel recommendations. Appreciate the tip on avoiding noisy Temple bar area hotels. You asked our price range. We will need 2 double rooms and are willing to spend up to 150 euros per night in Dublin ($180 USA dollars...eek!)

I prefer clean rooms, QUIET at night for sleeping, with some local character...if they are run by a friendly Irish family, even better. Prefer B&Bs with character but will accept a Dublin hotel if it has convenient location and is quiet.

Since my beloved Irish grandmother had a delightful brogue, which she never completely lost, I am partial to hearing the Irish speak, and would prefer to stay in a friendly Irish-family-run place where possible. Thanks for your recommendations!

B&B or hotel location convenient for visiting Trinity College in early morning would be great, either on foot or near hop-on, hop-off bus route.) Also Dublin B&B/hotel in convenient location to take DART to Dun Laoghaire for evening of song/dance would be ideal.

We enjoy hotels or B&Bs in interesting walkable neighborhoods.

Many thanks for all your help and any hotel/B&B recommendations for Dublin!

Hoping to spend LESS in B&Bs throughout the rest of Ireland though.

Try Trinity Lodge its a small hotel on S. Frederick street in a renovated townhouse. We get a business rate of 135.00 euro but see what they give you. Its in the city beside a nice italian cafe with Real italian food and close to the museums. Check out www.trinitylodge.ie Or Jurys christchurch for cheap and cheerful.

M5..Can't recommend " hop on/hop off" enough. Dublin is most interesting.Great Georgian buildings and the Book of Kells..Magnificant!!! You will return I caqn promise you as myu husband and I are goint to do Sept.4 on our way to Paris from chicago. the most economical fare to Paree was Aer Lingus through Dublin. How could we turn that down?? Do not miss Newgrange burial site and Trim castle either. My maternal grandfather came from county Antrim..It was like going home. Have a great time.

Hi M.5 Another thought..We rented a car through Dan Dooley. Had a terrible time with it due to an immoblizer but exchanged it with no fuss at all in Belfast after driving from Dublin. The staff was great...Check them out..

I have had better experiemces with Dan dooley than hertz in Dublin. I would reccommend them.

Looks like you've gotten good advice on
Dublin so far, Melissa, and I like your list. You've covered what we enjoyed several years ago, such as Writer's Museum, Book of Kells, National Museum, Kilmainham, etc. Patriots Pub nice across from the Gaol. And of course the trad Irish music such as in Temple Bar area...actually Temple Bar itself along with Fizsimmons and Oliver St. John Hogarty.

In Dublin we did lots of walking and we are seniors. Stayed at the Charles Stewart Guesthouse (there a lots of such B&Bs) on O'Connell St. across from Gate Theatre. Which reminds me that we took in two stage plays, one there and the other of course at the Abbey. And if you are on north O'Connell you will of course stop in to see the murals in the post office. Would also mention Evensong at Christ Church and Dubliana display there. Would also say skip the Guinness tour though liking dark ales.

BTW, Dublin friends, is it true that Bewleys on Grafton is no longer in business?

So a yes to Dublin along with Cashel and Newgrange and Glendalough and the lovely West in Ireland.

Ozarksbill
walongman@yahoo.com

I'd like to know about Bewley's too....
is it gone? And, if so, what is in its place?
Shadow

It looks the same but no lonbger does tea an breakfast. It was modestly renovated (nice chandeliers now) and is now a cafe bar deli (the original is on georges street in an old Bewleys. He kept the style and food element as people were worried a clothing store or Starbucks would buy it and I think they wanted to keep it Irish owned. In the front is atill coffee and scones when you walk in but limited seating and upstairs in the front is a seafood restaurnt called Mackrel that has been getting good reviews. It was the best compromise to keep the building open for business and seems to be working well. I ate in the Cafe Bar Deli section this past Sunday. Nice salads and pizza/pasta. Simple stuff that fills!

Many thanks to all of you for advice on Dublin. I think I've spent more time planning Dublin than any other part of our trip!

We are definitely spending 2 nights in Dublin at the end of our 15-night trip to Ireland.

Now I'm trying to select a B&B or small hotel or guesthouse in Dublin, which allows a QUIET sleep at night, and which has some Irish character, and a good Irish breakfast would be a bonus. These are my choices, has anybody stayed at any of these:

Molesworth Court Suites, Dublin
(Schoolhouse Lane, great central location)
www.molesworthcourt.ie
Problem: doesn't have 24-hour front desk.

Trinity College Campus, Dublin
800 student rooms available to tourists in the summer! good prices.
www.tcd.ie/accom
Practical, but sounds basic.

Balcamp Hutchinson, Dublin
(in the Dublin suburb of Balgriffin)
Sounds nice but problem: 20 minute bus ride to the heart of Dublin.

Kilronan House
comfty-sounding Quiet guesthouse, a 5-minute walk from St. Stephen's green.
Problem: Toilets may not be in room; but showers are in room, if I understand correctly. Good breakfast.

Number 31, Dublin
(Leeson Close, Lower Leeson St.)
Quiet, yet a short walk from St. Stephen's Green. Problem: Guest reviews of this one are so mixed, ranging from wonderful to terrible.

Harrington Hall
Harcourt St.; family-owned Georgian residence, refurbished. Steps from St. Stephens' green.

Well, any comments would be most appreciated! Those are the accomodations which interest me the most, after researching in fodors, frommers, and rick Steves guidebooks, and after checking out www.tripadvisor.com They all seem to be in the price range between USA $80 and under $200, I think.

I will probably post this same question about accomodations separately as well.

Many thanks for your help on planning Dublin!

M5: I have reservations for Kilronan House for Oct. 17-20 so I can let you know what I think. We are 3 ladies staying in Dublin for 4 nights-we'll have 2 1/2 days in Dublin and we are thinking of taking the train to Belfast for one day coming back to Dublin.
Then, its on to Co. Roscommom where I'll be visiting with my mom who lives there. We'll come back to Dublin for one more night and I am about to make a reservation for that night at Beechwood House in Malahide so we'll be closer to the airport.
At Kilronan House we will have a triple room and I sure hope the bathroom is in the room!! Maybe I should email them to be sure? The pict. on their website looks like the bathroom is ensuite. (But, I know pics can be deceiving)

I am trying to put together an itinerary for us in Dublin too and have spent lots of time gathering info. Now, its time to kinda get an idea of what to do on which days and what we can fit in.

This is my 9th trip to Ireland and have been to Dublin several times but am particularily looking forward to it this time as I think we'll be able to get a better feel for the city-not so rushed as I have been in the past.

I live in a small town in the Mojave Desert of California so I LOVE cities...stores, shopping, restaurants, people coming and going, I love it...so different from where I live. However, my town is very inexpensive (for California)and Dublin is not cheap...our room at Kilronan is costing us 65 euros each...not much each but for 3 that is alot-195 a night.....I'd say the bathroom better be in the room!
Shadow

Shadow, enjoyed reading about your plans. From what I can understand, reading the trip reports of others, Kilronan House sounds very enticing...but in some rooms, the shower is in your room but the toilet is outside of your room. One person had to go up some stairs to the toilet. I think you should write and ask exactly where are your toilet and your shower. Just write a nice polite letter. When I make reservations I always ask for specifics (though I wouldn't have thought of asking where the toilet is unless I had read the guest comments of others..,.)

I would love to hear how you like Kilronan when you return! Write me at melo@san.rr.com if you can, and put "Kilronan House" or "Dublin hotel" in the subject line. (that's how I screen my e-mail for junk mail.)

Have a great visit! This will be our first trip.

Melissa5: I will let you know! Hopefully you will fall in love with Ireland as I have....I was 16 on my first visit....I went with my dad who had not been back in 17 years when we made that trip...it turned out to be the only trip I made with him...he was even surprised how much I loved it...

Ireland was a bit different then, so I am glad I got to see it the way it was.... that has given me so much more understanding of the Irish people. Of course, both my parents came from there.


I was already in love with all things Irish then but I came back enthralled with Ireland. Soon I was taking Irish Step Dancing and competing, maps of Ireland went on my walls, I kept in touch with my new friends in Ireland....
(I have those friends 'til this day), I even went out of my way to listen to "The Irish Hour" on the radio (an hour radio show mostly listened to by older people who missed their home country)-I even listened to it if I was on a date!
Sorry, I am being long winded.....don't want to bore anyone....but, just wanting to say that Ireland is special and that your daughters may just fall in love with it as I did.....
Shadow

While walking about Dublin, go for a stroll across the Ha'Penney Bridge. From the North Side, glance to your left at the small, open "park". Go for a stoll there if at all possible. It's called Croppie's Acre and if the thought of visiting Kilmainham moves you, communing with the residents that surely haunt the Acre willrock your world. Do a google search to learn about the history of the place. Many locals don't even know as much about it as they should.

Shadow, I fell in love with Ireland as a small girl, listening to my Irish grandmother...And I haven't even been there yet! I'm really enjoying planning our first family trip for summer 2006.

I wish my youngest daughter (now 18) was as enthusiastic about Ireland as you are. My older daughter, 19, is eager to go and has committed to it, but my younger daughter says she doesn't want to go because she'll miss her boyfriend too much! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh! I think this is a bit short-sighted...as our family trip is only 2 weeks, and next summer she will have a long summer between college years, 3 entire months of it! We're still working on persuading her...

I think step-dancing looks fun and energetic, and I'd wish I'd learned it when I was younger with more energy and better knees! Good for you! And please tell me, how does one find the "Irish Hour" on the radio? Is it still available? I'd like to listen in.

ITALLIAN_CHAUFFEUR: You have intrigued me about Croppie's Acre. I'll see what I can find out about that. (One can never learn enough about Ireland...)

Thanks.

Melissa5-just so you know...that was a long time ago that I made my first trip...this will be my 9th and I still have places yet to see!
Italian Chauffer-its fun to read the posts of other Ireland lovers...thanks for the info. on Croppies Acres...I will check into that....
Shadow

I used to live beside the Croppy Acre (there is a pub nearby with the same name) It is not something I would go out of my way to see. It is a field with I think Plaques in the ground and its set aside as a memorial to the uprising of 1798. It has always been locked and no public avccess whne I lived beside it. It is in front of the Collins Barricks Museum.

I was just wondering....does this have something to do with the old song "The Croppy Boy?" (I think that was the title)

Shadow

I emailed Kilronan House to ask if our triple room had an ensuite bathroom....I figured it did because they show a virtual tour of a triple room on the website...but, if they have more triples maybe one would not have an ensuite...anyway, our triple does have an ensuite bathroom with toilet, etc.
So, all is well!!
Shadow

Shadow, yay, I'm happy for you...I hope your enjoy Kilronan house AND your ensuite toilet! Post a review on Kilronan for us when you return, please.

I'm having a hard time choosing a Dublin hotel because it seems that a lot of them in city centre are affected by noise at night from night-clubers returning late to their hotels. It's hard to tell where I could actually have a quiet sleep at night.

Happy Irish travels!

Shadow,

Don't worry about being long winded about Ireland to Melissa - she is a complete sweetie and is more than willing to put up with my ramblings... and go on and on about Ireland to her ALL THE TIME!! LoL.

M,

Glad to hear that your trip is shaping up. Keep working on that daughter! Rent some Irish films from Netflicks if you have to, get her a book (I'll loan you a few of mine) and tell her that "Absence Makes The Heart Grow Fonder" - it's so very true!

Wendy

Wendy, I'm so excited, my younger daughter has agreed to come to Ireland too! I had to agree to buy her all the phone cards to call her boyfriend that she needs.

So now, with both daughters in my day-dreams of Dublin, things are looking better than ever!

Wendy, do you have a suggestion for either a specific B&B/hotel, or an area or street, which would be a good location to stay in Dublin? I'd prefer to be able to walk to Trinity college and St. Stephen's green, and to good restaurants, and at the same time to be able to get a quiet sleep at night...this is looking difficult in Dublin, with all the night-clubs, beer gardens, and pubs! Any suggestions?

Thanks!

With apologies to Siohban P (we've got to stop meeting like this - I don't normally feel the need to apologize to anyone as much as I seem to have with you), Croppie's Acre is really more a state of mind. The actual grounds are very low key and unimpressive visually, but it is the intangibles that touch me most.
During the time of the 1798 Rebellion, the Acre was unreclaimed swamp land that drained off into the Liffy. What is now Collins Barracks was an English Garrison. Many Rebels were brought there to the Garrison and publicly executed. Afterwards, their bodies were dumped, unceremoniously, into the adjacent marshland that served as the barracks garbage heap. Among the most notable victims were Matthew Tone (younger brother of Wolfe Tone) and his comrade in arms, Bartholomew Teeling (hero of the Battle of Collooney). Both were commisioned officers in the 1,000 man French Expeditionary Army that General Jean Arable Humbert landed at Killalla, Co. Mayo and stormed through Ballina, Castlebar and most of Connaught, before finally succumbing at the Battle of Ballinamunck, in Co. Leitrim to the 10,000 British troops, under the command of Lord Cornwallis and the Butcher of Vinegar Hill, General Lake.
Despite the British assurrances given at the time of surrender, of fair and honorable treatment of his men, Tone and Teeling were singled out as "traiterous Englishmen".

Their's are just two of the Ghosts that haunt the unassuming Acre. So small a space could never really contain such men as they. Their spirit echoes through out Dublin, just as it lives through all of Ireland.
I AM a bit of a History buff and, no doubt, a bit of an old-fashioned romantic, I suppose. There really isn't much to see in Croppie's Acre, but each time that I am in Dublin, that fact doesn't stop me from looking.

Wow Italian_Chauffer You have the best info. Never apoligise to me you always have great info. I only know my tiny bit of the croppy acre from the web even though I walked by it every day for 3 years! I personally like the Collins Barricks Museum and my other half gets a kick out of going back to visit it ashe was in the FCA (Kinda like the reserves here in Ireland) when he was 18. He remembers marching in the large square when you enter the Barricks. The openend up a new section last year that just had glass cases of items they did not show or had no room to show and it was really interesting. Lots of Asian artefacts that I never knew the had in the collection.

My all time favourite place is the Chester Beatty Library Museum behind Dublin Castle. It's in the building that was the former oficer barricks and houses the largest collection of Asian art in europe. Chester Beatty was a real renaissance man and collected a lot of important book, artefacts etc on asia. He donated the collection to the People of Ireland when he died. I met someone outside who was over from Japan studying some of the scrolls and writing a book about it in Japan. Food is excellent in the cafe as well.

M,

I would stick with Siobhan's or katy's suggestions as they are Dubliners and have the best first hand sort of knowledge. My in-laws live too close to Dublin for us to spend any overnights in the city itself so I have little "been there, done that" kind of info.

My parents did stay at the FitzWilliam hotel (rooms not facing the street were more quiet but less scenic) for a few nights and they really enjoyed being that close to down town & St Stephen's Green. That was back in 2001 but I can ask if they recall any sleeping/noise issues. (Step mother is a very light sleeper...)

Glad to hear that both girls are going! The family will have a lovely time.

Wendy

Cannot say any more than other postings - hop on/off bus is great. The Paramount Hotel is at the very end of Temple Bar and is very quiet and a wonderful hotel. This summer their specials were 100 euros per room - not per person and includes a full Irish breakfast. Awesome hotel. web site: http://www.paramounthotel.ie/index.htm Also stayed at Temple Bar Hotel which is in the middle of Temple Bar but didn't find it noisy at all although their rates are a little higher than Paramount . Great music and food in the pubs - never had a bad meal anywhere ! People are amazing there - the Irish have to be the friendliest ever ! Enjoy !

I wonder where all the poeple are that don't like Dublin, because it is a pretty popular refrain. I like it more everytime I go there and am ny no means an expert on the city. Just as an aside, we stayed at the Pembroke townhouse in Balsbridge at the suggestion of Siobhan (to stay in the area) and someone else specifically suggesting Pembroke and it was very nice. It's a healthy walk to the city center but the area is very quiet and comfortable.

Bill

Polite Questions. How old are you? Educational level? Mother tongue? Economic strata? Race? Mobile-self, assisted or wheel chair? Religion? Local origins? Pubs or museums? Introverts or extroverts?

Italian_Chauffer, wow, you know a lot of Dublin history. How many times have you been to Dublin? What's the secret to enjoying repeat visits to Dublin? I thought I had already done a lot of research on Ireland, but it looks like I've barely dabbled in Irish history! Thanks for your interesting replies.

SIOBHAN P: Thanks for the suggestions. The trick now is to decide what I need to include or miss, with only 2 nights in Dublin! Just a glimpse...I'm thinking it will be a challenge to see the National Museum (Archaeology etc), the Natural History museum (for hubby), and the Kilmainham Gaol, plus checking out Grafton St., Merrion Square, St. Stephen's Green areas...

WAFFLE18, very handy to have inlaws close to Dublin! So, what are your 2 favorite Dublin sites or experiences?

FLBRONC: I will look into the Paramount Hotel, thanks. Sounds like you enjoyed Dublin.

WOJAZZ3, yeah, where are the people who don't like Dublin? Maybe they don't feel stronly enough to read down this far. (If you look at discussions of Venice, Italy you will get passionate opinions on both sides...) I have developed my own theory about visiting cities. When you visit the countryside or the seaside, you can sort of mosey around without a lot of planning and it could works okay. But in the city it's better to plan more carefully, otherwise you could find yourself staying in an inconvenient part of town, and finding transportation and directions to be a frustrating tangle that might ruin your day. Plus city often means crowds, and if you plan ahead, you can often arrive at a site at a less crowded time.

Bill (WOJAZZ3), yours is another vote for the Pembroke townhouse in Ballsbridge, so I will look into that one more carefully. What's your secret, as you say you like Dublin better every time you go?

GSTEED: Age: old enough. Educational level: eternal student of life. Mother tongue: guess; Economic strata: yes; Race: earthling; Mobile: phone; Religion: Universal; Local origins: tomatoes; Pubs or museums: depends; Introverts or extroverts: definitely.

I've only been to Dublin three times, never for more than two days. We have family AND friends (and really, aren't they basically the same)in east and West Cork, Killarney and around Kildare. What little I know about Dublin (and Dublin history) is generally periphrial to my main interest. I've done a LOT of research on the Rebellion of 1798 (but mostly, the French 'Invasion' in Mayo) and the Famine (Mayo, again, but also West Cork).
In Feb of 2002, I walked the cold, muddy and wet road through Ballinamunck, in a driving rain. My wife and the other four traveling companions waited patiently and slightly bemused in the warm, dry van. I guess they didn't get it either., but they didn't object to the detour, either. There is NO PLACE in Ireland that I could say wasn't worth a visit, but time restraints always force you into making choices. I haven't seen 1/3 of Dublin, ANY of the North (including Donegal) and far too little of Wicklow and Wexford.
Best 30 Euro I ever spent in Dublin? A taxi ride from the airport back to Ballsbridge, after dropping off the rental car. Got caught in traffic that made the trip last nearly an hour, and had the best damn time talking with the driver about his children and mine, world politics, the Celtic Tiger and the way that life has treated us.
My tip for enjoying your visit? Take time to interact with the people you meet.

Italian_Chauffeur, I like your recipe for having "the best damn time". See, that's why I like to have 3 nights in one place if possible...to slow down and chat to interesting local people; in Italy, for example, I loved having time to return to the same gelato shop to practice my Italian with the cashier who was a local. Because Ireland has a lot of interesting small towns, it's more tempting or even necessary to have some 1 and 2-night stops, even though I prefer 3-night stops.

Nice chatting with you! Say, are you really an Italian chauffeur?

Yes and no. There is an old thread lurking about the archives called "HOW DID YOU CHOSE YOUR SCREEN NAME?", or something similar. If you 'click on' my screen name and search down you can probably find it. My entry will be highlighted in grey.

Mellissa5:

Some time ago we had email exchanges and I referenced my Trip Report Oct.'04, which you said you were printing out. As I note you are still seeking a hotel in Dublin, just thought I'd put in a reminder re the Mercer Hotel (www.mercerhotel.ie/).

It is centrally located, yet on a quiet side street. It's small (I think 44 rooms), was comfortable, clean, and a very friendly staff. Breakfast was included in room rate, and I found a very good discount rate on one of the Dublin hotel sites (sorry, don't recall which one).

I made the reservation many months ahead, and then worried that all would be ok. Re-contacted the hotel by email,as our travel date came near, and indeed all was well.

We arrived via cab at about 6:30am in the morning from the airport, were welcomed, our luggage was stored, we were offered breakfast at no charge, and relaxed in their dining area and then the little lounge they have (with Sky TV). Then took a walk over to St.Stephen's Green and about the area. When we returned, by then someone had checked out and a room soon was prepared for us. We were able to unpack, rest, and then get on with the day! Excellent!

Melissa5: Because you asked:


Author: Itallian_Chauffer
Date: 07/24/2004, 08:45 pm
Because I've grown MUCH TOO DEPENDANT upon SPELLCHECK, but you get the intent.
In Oct of '98, my wife gave me an ultimatum/ deadline -- we had to go to Ireland before her next birthday (OCT).
Both of her father's parents had been born and raised in Ireland, yet no one in her family (including her father)had ever been.
So, in April of 99, my wife, her brother, her sister (and her partner)and my father-in-law (aged 80) and I took off for an 8 day trip. All the planning, all the driving, route planning and accommodation selection was done by me. I had been so anal about the research that I printed out maps of, to/from the airports, lists and locations of attractions, historical data, etc. etc. My 'guidebook' ran about 100 pages and whenever one of the group would ask about ANYTHING, I would tell them "It's in the book", and then quote the pertinent information. They started kidding me about being the 'Irish Tour Guide' and I would say, "No, I'm the Itallian (which I am) Chauffeur!" The name didn't really stick until our last day in Ireland. We were checking into a B&B in Bunnratty and the owner asked me which room would be for which person (Like most men, I'm not allowed to make that call, it's ALWAYS up to my wife). Feeling a little silly, I replied, "You'll have to ask them, I'M JUST THE CAUFFEUR". Nonplussed, the owner nodded and replied, "So you will be back in the morning to pick them up?"
"No," was my reply. Then I pointed to my wife (then of 28 years) and said, "I'm sleeping with her."

Ever since, I've been the Itallian Chauffeur.


SiobhanP: I see from that same thread, that your real name is Patricia. It is a lovely name (one you share, with my lovely -- and long-suffering -- wife). We are currently planning to celebrate our 35th Anniversary next April, in much the same manner as we celebrated our 30th -- together, in Ireland ...

Italian_Chauffeur, what a great story! I'm sure you'll bring a smile to anyone reading how you got your name, unless they are actually rolling on the floor laughing, and by the way, I read that laughter is incredibly good for you and boosts the immune system. Thanks for sharing the story! Love Italy by the way, fantastic family trip summer 2004.

Hubby and I just got away for a romantic weekend to Big Bear Lake where I got away from planning our getaway to Ireland for a whole weekend! (Okay, not completely, I stowed a new book on B&Bs in Ireland in my luggage.) When we were stuck in a traffic jam on the way up to big bear I pulled out the book and was reading to hubby about a unique Irish B&B which really intrigued me..when oopsie...LOL...hubby and I realized that...umm...it didn't actually exist and was the author's joke on us! If you can never have enough guidebooks (yep, I have Fodors too) check out Alastair Sawday's "Special Places To Stay, Ireland", brand new in 2005. There's a photo for every B&B listed.

Suelh, thanks very much for your info on the Mercer. It's not due to lack of info that I don't have the Dublin hotel picked out yet...You see, I am just an obsessive-information-collector, and as Italian Chauffeur mentioned, nothing short of a novel's worth of travel info pages printed out will satisfy me. While some people might consider this excessive work, I consider it great fun, because while I'm "obsessing" about which hotel to stay in, I learn so much about a place, the people, the customs, the food, the music, the atmosphere...I told hubby that when I take my "real" first trip to a new country, it feels almost like coming home, because of all the research.

Actually it feels like I am researching a book, then I write the book, then, presto, I get to actually step into the book, and it's real! Yes, that's what travelling and travel-planning feels like to me.

Thank you all for indulging me. I have learned so much from you.

Right now I have 2 nights in Dublin scheduled for the end of our trip, and 2 nights in Trim scheduled for the middle of our trip to see Newgrange and Trim Castle. I was thinking about re-arranging things maybe and having 4 nights in 1 hotel as a base for seeing Dublin, Newgrange, and Trim. But not sure about that yet. At any rate I think October is a good month for getting the airfare and B&Bs squared away for June 2005 so can't dilly-dally much longer!

Again, since I was asked,
Information about Croppies Acre:

From the web-site: http://homepage.eircom.net/~eirenua/aug98/saoirse4.htm

“In a four-month period over the summer of 1798 the brutality and savagery of the English forces, including Irishmen in the service of the Crown, had cut down almost 30,000 people, more than died in all the years of the French Revolution.
Here, between the Royal Barracks and the River Liffey large holes were excavated and into them were thrown the bodies of the insurgents of Dublin city and county and the neighbouring counties of Kildare, Meath and Wicklow.

Robert Emmet wrote of this Croppies’ Acre:

‘No rising column marks the spot
Where many a victim lies
But oh! The blood which here has streamed
To heaven for justice cries.

Unconsecrated in this ground
Unblest by holy hands
No bell tolls its solemn sound
No monument here stands.

But here the patriot’s tears are shed
The poor man’s blessing given
These consecrate the virtuous dead
These waft their fame to heaven.’

Five years after these mass graves were opened and closed, Robert Emmet himself was hanged in Thomas Street, where our parade assembled today. We do not know where Emmet’s body lies but his memory is safe in the minds of the Irish people.
We do not know how many croppies are buried here. It was certainly hundreds, and possibly a thousand or more. Matthew Tone, Theobald’s younger brother and Bartholomew Teeling of Lisburn, Co Antrim are probably among them.”

Also, for Shadow:

From an Orange Order song from the time of the 1798 Rebellion:

“O Croppies, ye’d better be quiet and still,
Ye shan’t have your liberty, do what ye will,
As long as salt water is found in the deep
Our foot on the neck of the Croppy we’ll keep.

Down, down, Croppies lie down . . .”

Melissa5, thanks for starting this thread. Seems that we will be in Malaga Spain next summer and the quickest, least expensive flights from JFK is via Dublin (go figure)on Aer Lingus. WE now have decided to spend two nights there. We booked the Westin Dublin which appears to be in a central location. Also, there are a number of walking tours of various interests that depart from Trinity College which sound interesting.

Thanks everyone for this terrific thread!!
We just booked a week in Dublin...in Feburary....yes...we love cold & damp & melancholy!!
Last May we spent a month in Ireland & stayed in the country the entire trip...we booked into Belcamp-Hutchinson, near the airport...so we never came into Dublin.
So I decided we needed to return to savor Dublin...thank you for the wonderful information!!
ITALIAN_CHAUFFER.....what wonderfu stories...ie your moniker....and Croppies Acre. I can't wait to spend time with the troups!!
Many thanks!!

I'm quite late weighing in here... but I vote it as a must see! Fantastic city - and I'm not a 'city' person.

Daytrip to Malahide castle well worthwhile (best meal was at the # restaurant... 31? 21? 12? Not a big town, you can find it!). Great city to wander in, and be certain to do a 'pub' night, you'll meet great people since the Irish are very friendly.

Here's a link to my (pathetic) trip report from 2003... http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34464811

Enjoy, all of you! Travelphile

(Bailey, we must talk about Dublin on email!)

Travephile....that would be great!!
Here's my e-mail:
BaileyZimmerman@aol.com

Itallian_Chauffeur: OH, what vivid, passionate and tragic poetry... I sure find it inspiring (especially since I plan to be a poet when I grow up, which should be soon, since I am almost 50.) That Orange Order song from 1798 sure doesn't beat about the bush, does it? "Our foot on the neck of the Croppy we'll keep. Down, down, Croppies lie down..."

Please, Itallian Chauffeur, tell me, why are the people called "Croppies"? Thank you for bringing a bit of Irish history alive for us, sad though it is. Have you published a book? You certainly should.

ROGFAM: Enjoy your 2 nights in Dublin on the way to Spain!

BAILEY: Savor your cold, damp, and melancholy Dublin with a hot cup of tea (whiskey?) Hope you tell us all about it when you return.

TRAVELPHILE: It's never too late to cast your vote. And since I'm not usually a city person either (but I love Rome and San Francisco) I am now curious to dip into your trip report...

The traditional hair style of the late 1700's was long. The French Jacobites began to 'crop' their hair short, as a political statement, and the fashion spread. The English applied the term derogitarily, to all rebels and

In my youth, I did some writing for magazines (business publications, mostly), but other than my sojourns on this board, any serious writing I do is for family and a small group of friends. I have compiled two volumes of a planned trilogy called SPOKES IN THE WHEEL, in which I have fictionally inserted my wife's anscestors into key Irish history events (kind of an Irish FORREST GUMP approach).
Book One: MEN OF HONOR dealt with the Rebellion of 1798, specifically, the French Incursion into Connaught.
Book Two: HARD ROAD , based in Belmullet, Co. Mayo, the 50 years between the Rebellion and the Great Famine.
Book Three, as yet unwritten and untitled will be based in Millstreet, Co. Cork, and span the next 50 years (1848-1850), ending with my wife's grandfather leaving Ireland for the US in 1898.
I give copies to the family at Christmas. They seem to like them.

The title comes from a Ciaran Wynne tune, "A Mother's Song", from his CD titled NO WAY HOME.

"THIS IS NOT A LOVE SONG,
THIS IS HOW I FEEL.
BUT I KNOW I MUST BE STRONG,
I'M JUST A SPOKE IN THE WHEEL."

Now, THAT is Art.

Bob

Bob, that's not fair. If your books aren't in the bookstore how can I read them? You're an excellent writer and you have an incredible mind that collects facts like a magnet attracts metal.

Thank you for clearing up the mystery about croppies. Haircuts...who would have thought it...

Did you know that Tolkien's Lord of the Rings was originally a bed-time story written for his son? It was his friend C.S. Lewis who told him he really should have it published. And I'm so glad he did as it has to be the most wonderful book I've ever read. (Actually the series of 3 books was intended to be one long book by Tolkien, but the publisher thought it was too long...)

Well getting off the subject! Can you recommend a couple books that would be good to read about Ireland before I go? There are so many I don't know where to start, besides my travel books.

How do you self-publish your books and give them to family? I want to self-publish a book on our Irish family history and give copies to family. But I'm technologically behind and not sure what software I need, etc. How do you do it? (It was someone on fodors who taught me how to copy and paste recently! No kidding!) Though I can remember just about every B&B and hotel in Ireland, I forget how to do technical/mechanical things unless I do them every single day... If I wasn't on fodors so much, I'd forget how to get back, I'm sure!

Have an interesting day.

No current plans to seriously attempt publication. It's enough to have done it.

There is a local printer/copy place that does 'perfect binding' (when the cover is wrapped around the copy and glued all along the spline). I print one copy, two pages to a side, four to a sheet (it's an option in Microsoft Office), and take it to the shop with cover art, etc., and they put it all together for me. Twenty-five copies runs about $500 or so depending on the number of pages - mine averaged about 375, in 12 point font -- with an approximate size of 6 inches by 9 (a large paperback). I have the pages printed on heavy stock and the covers are legal size (to allow for the spine)glossy photo paper utilizing a black and white photo, with lettering overlay.

So, cost per copy is around $18 - $20, an amount not unreasonable for Christmas gifts. It would be a lot cheaper, if my wife wasn't one of nine children!

I will put together a list of books for you - my collection runs over 100 titles on hand. Do you prefer fiction or non-fiction? Some of my library is made up of books that can only be aquired in Ireland, but most were purchased here in the US from a variety of sources.
Are you interested in Irish History in general, or do you just wish to know about specific events or periods (for example, The Famine)?

It was while returning from Ireland, in April of 2001, my wife's constant questioning about what her ancestors must have been like haunting the back of my mind, that I first envisioned the idea for SPOKES IN THE WHEEL. I was hurtling along at 35,000 feet, listening to NO WAY HOME and reading Liam O'Donnell's THE DAYS OF THE SERVANT BOY, a first person recollection of the hiring fairs of the '20s and '30s, where farm laborers were herded together, poked and prodded to be determined if the were worthy enough to be hired for the following year for the princely sum of between 18 and 50 pounds (dependant upon age and experience). This is a book I will heartily recommend, but it is also one you will only find in Ireland.
I'll try to put a short list together in a day or two and post it back here.

Bob

Bob, I usually read fiction except when preparing for trips...I read non-fiction if it's written in a very engaging, fascinating style and is pertaining to places I'm travelling to.

I am interested in Ireland from about 1860 to 1917 especially. I am interested in understanding what forces came together to make my Irish grandmother the fascinating person she was...she was a natural-born oral story-teller, and she never told you it was a story, she just started telling the tale like it was true. Of course it was, I believed it! This trait was inherited by one of her daughters, my aunt, and the line betwen Aunt's reality and story-telling always blended in a delightful way. I'm afraid the story-telling skipped my Dad entirely and I inherited his share.

So if you have any books to recommend which would include anything about Irish story-telling that would be great.

I also like to understand the social, economic, political forces which contributed so much hardship to the Irish people and challenged them. And I'd like to understand what drove entire families to emigrate to America, often leaving behind children, cousins, parents, etc.

I'd also like to understand why the Irish love Ireland so much, that even when forced to emigrate, they retained a love of Ireland which I have seen tends to get passed onto their children and grandchildren.

Well, does that help, as far as recommending books for me? Thanks very much Bob!

Melissa5:

A short list, to get you started:

THE BACK OF BEYOND -- James Charles Roy

THE GREAT HUNGER -- Cecil Woodham-Smith

THE GREAT SHAME -- Thomas Kineally

OF IRISH WAYS -- Mary Murray Delaney

THE NEW DUBLINERS -- edited by Oona Frawley

IT'S A LONG WAY FROM PENNEY APPLES -- Bill Cullen

The last two were purchased in Ireland and may not be available stateside. These are all non-fiction, except THE NEW DUBLINERS which is a collection of short stories by contemporary Irish authors emulating the spirit of the original, in contemporary settings, for the most part. It was released this Bloomsday past. I ordered it from a book store in Killarney and had it shipped to me, since it wasn't yet released.

Bob

As to story telling, June is when the Listowel Writer's Workshop takes place. They usually incorporate a session on story telling and another on music.

Do a weg-search on Peig Sayers, perhaps one of Ireland's most famous.

Bob

Bob, thanks for the list of books. Oh, oh, I want to go to the Listowel Writer's Workshop in Ireland! However, probably doesn't mesh well with the rest of the family's vacation needs!

But I'm curious so I'm going to look into it anyway. My 2 daughters write as well.

topping for Bailey! I know she would love to see this thread...

whoops, guess she will see the updates.

Seems like an odd question. How could Dublin be a waste of time for heaven's sake! Go! Then you'll know next time whether it's a waste of time.

I enjoyed Trinity College and the Book of Kells. Also St. Stephen's Green. The hop-on, hop-off bus tour was a good way to get around to everything and get a little explanation with it. Skip the Guinness tour. The beer is fabulous, but the tour is definitely NOT worth the $$.

kelleyf, : "Dublin: a Must-See or a Waste of time?" Actually it's an excellent question, designed to invite lots of responses, which is exactly what it did. Notice the 85 responses. Lots of good info and opinions on Dublin on this post, generously shared, which helped me, and will help anyone considering a visit to Dublin.

Writing a question for fodors is like writing a newspaper headline. If the headline doesn't catch your attention, nobody will read the newspaper story, and in this case, nobody will answer the question.

I designed the question to draw lots of responses from people who have been to Dublin, and to invite them to share their experiences, whether positive or negative. This kind of question gets a nice balance of responses.

Melissa,

This is just my personal opinion. If you are flying into and out of Shannon then Dublin is a waste of time. I have found that the West and Southwest (I'm including Donegal) are the best places to visit. But then again I tend to want to avoid cities, crowds, and traffic. However, even if I did want to visit a city in Ireland personally I'd take Galway over Dublin any day.

But it sounds like you're flying out of Dublin so spending your last two nights there is not a bad plan. I'm sure you'll have a blast.

Mark

One of the features of Dublin is that it is a vibrant theatrical city.On-line booking facilities are available for the National Concert Hall at www.nch.ie and for the Abbey Theatre at www.abbeytheatre.ie .Both of these are state subsidised and the prices are reasonable. See www.entertainment.ie for other ideas.

Thanks for the history of Croppie's Acre...how fascinating! I have heard that it was in Ireland that the English perfected their harsh Colonial rule tactics. Also appreciated book suggestions...I have a few I've enjoyed, too.

The last post does remind me of our pleasure being in Dublin a few years back... including two theatre productions. One was a marvelous bit of Irish history, "Translations," at The Abbey about the British attempts to remake western Ireland. The other was a perplexing one man show at The Gate, "Krupp's Last Tape," but made special because it starred John Hurt.
Sadly just learned of the death of my close friend, one-half of a couple with whom we toured Ireland. Dave was the one who explained what the play at The Gate was all about.

And agreeing with Kim80505, skip the Guinness tour. Settle for a pint in some pub. I'd much rather take in Kilmainham Gaol on that side of the city, another exposure to history of the rebellious Irish people.

ozarksbill

If you like reading (and like historical stuff) I would recommend reading Princes of Ireland, by Edward Rutherford. It gives a history of Dublin, in novel style, throughout it's existence, from pre-Roman times to now. It helps a lot with the various places, the people in history, the events, etc., to attach them to a novel (at least, for me!)

Greendragon, I loved that book.

Me, too -- it gave a great history on the area, the country, and the people, without ever leaving the confines of the city. It was so cool to find out how things got their names -- neighborhoods, buildings, streets, etc.

Italian_Chauffeur, I did get the wonderful book you e-mailed me by the way, and I peeked at it and plan to enjoy it as soon as I have completed the frenzied task of booking our accomodations, which I am almost finished with! Thanks very much!

I have really enjoyed chatting about Dublin with you all and feel like I have had a first trip to Dublin already. In fact I have finished planning our itinerary and have decided to save a Dublin visit for our second trip to Ireland, because we are seeing Belfast on this visit (because my grandmother grew up there before emigrating to America), and I would rather do one big city per trip. I think after everything you all have shared Dublin deserves at least 2 full days, which means a 3-night stay in Dublin. So we aren't going to Dublin on this trip, but we are going to include not only Belfast, but also all the way up to Giant's Causeway and the Coast of Antrim, and that way on our second trip to Ireland, everything I want to see will be Dublin plus places south of Dublin, making the second trip geographically easier to plan.

You might be hearing from a very nice lady who has been on www.IralandYes.com planning her family's first trip to Ireland, and they are going to Dublin. She might pop in here with some questions, I told her you all were great.

This is all printed out and saved in my paper files, which I keep eternally for current and future trips.

Oopsie, typo above. I meant www.IrelandYes.com. I typed it wrong above. That's Michelle Erdvig's web-site on Ireland, my second home. I love you all here on fodors, and I also love IrelandYes, where people talk about only Ireland 24 hours a day on the forum. What could be more pleasant?

And now, you see, why I said that you would need to make some difficult choices. Ah, well, now you'll HAVE to plan a RETURN trip.

And here, I was begining to think you didn't care for my little fable! Let me know IF/WHEN you would like to have the SECOND...

Bob

Bob, today I gave away my copy of Year of the French because I have the little booklet you sent me. I've been selling property, buying, packing to relocate and feel I don't have the time to enjoy it. It's coming with me. Thanks, Melissa, for letting me butt in. I'm going to the Seattle area and already thinking that is another 6 hours to get to Ireland. I'll be looking for your trip report, Melissa. My Best, Joan

Italian_Chauffeur, sorry I didn't mention sooner that am I really looking forward to reading your book, and had skimmed it for a delightful preview! I have just been using my spare time to polish up my itinerary and get all my accomodations booked, and then I will be able to relax and enjoy reading about Ireland. I have one last accomodations decision to make...where to stay in or near Belfast for 2 nights.

I will probably be wanting you to send your second fable as well, as I will need something to occupy my curious mind and keep it out of trouble. Boy did I get into trouble last night. I chanced upon a brief discussion on tripadvisor about safety and Belfast. It was from September 2005.

I then felt compelled, it being the middle of the night, to look up news stories on Belfast from September 2005. Yikes! Scared myself silly. I am now petrified. The troubles aren't over in Northern Ireland and unfortunately the Orangemen were not happy to be told they can't march down certain streets which are now mostly Catholic, and considered this an infringement on their rights, from what I can gather. Apparently, from what I gather from reading news stories in various papers, riots broke out in September 2005. You can look up news reports on www.nuzhound.com. Some people were injured. There were roadblocks. Violence spread to outlying towns like Bangor. Bus service was temporarily haulted to certain areas like to Bangor and Newtownards. "A 20-month old boy in Belfast suffered a fractured skull when gangs beset his family's car", this from a Washington Post story by Kevin Sullivan, dated Tuesday, September 13, 2005. There are a series of articles on nuzhound, the ones I read were dated around September 11, 12, 13, from the Washington Post, the BBC News, the Irish News, etc.

Needless to say I was quite dismayed and unable to sleep. I don't want to take my family into trouble, and need to settle on a b&b in a town where I feel we will all be peaceful and safe. Nobody can predict the future but I need to get some sleep at night!

I know this post is on Dublin but you are so full of knowledge and friendly and wise, and you know a lot of history, I just couldn't resist sharing this with you, Iallian_Chauffeur. Honestly I don't want to see Belfast badly enough to suffer sleepless nights over possible further problems similiar to the above.

I didn't see this news in September 2005, at that time I was helping my last baby prepare to move away to college (her school started late in September) and wasn't watching the news.

Interesting about my local paper, I looked in the Sunday paper and didn't see, on a quick skim, any news on Ireland anywhere.

Anyway as my grandmother was from Lurgan and Belfast areas, I was planning to spend 2 nights in either Belfast, Hillsborough or Dromore (little towns south of Belfast) or at Edenvale, a nice guesthouse near Newtownards.

As you can guess from my posts I am a bit obsessive and the best plan is for me to focus my obsessions on something positive, otherwise they will focus on something negative... Since you are a history buff maybe you understand obsession with details!

I guess I need to chat with some locals to figure out which village to stay in, which doesn't get riots, so that I can sleep and have something to look forward to, and besides I have my family to think about. Perhaps Hillsborough would be a good choice, there's a nice place called Fortwilliam where we can stay in the countryside near Hillsborough south of Belfast. Then, when we arrive, I can find out whether or not it's a good day to drive into Belfast for the day. Ahhhhh! Help. Thanks for listening, always, Itallian_Chauffeur.

Joan, I am glad you will read my trip report, and I hope I won't have any riots to report!

Melissa5,
I feel your pain and understand your concern, but ...
Here's my (admittedly)simplified take on your delemna:
While 'Marching Season' invariably stirs up much of the old hatreds and passion (on both sides), you should bear in mind that THAT IS THE INTENT AND PURPOSE. Outside of the traditional enclaves of Falls Church and Fishkill Road in Belfast (neither locale likely to draw an abundance of tourists)Belfast is no more dangerous, or unsettled than any number of cities through out the world. Doubtless, it is better AND safer than a goodly number. I once read two interesting facts about the 'Troubles':
NO TOURIST HAS EVER BEEN KILLED, during all those crazy years of bombings, riots and retalliation!
If you add up ALL of the death attributed to the above-mentioned events, since the '60's, it is still LESS than the number of murders that typically occurr in the city of San Francisco. Just as you would not go for a midnight stroll through Needle Park, you wouldn't want to frequent the parts of Belfast likely to experience the behaviour that you have read about.
You should trust Helen (Cambe). I doubt she would recommend any place she felt was unsafe or risky. Would you never go to Southern California, because of the incidence of "drive-by's" in South Central?
Now, only YOU can decide how important visiting your Grandmother's home is to you, but from what you have written on these forum pages, I have to believe that failing to do so would strip much of the joy from your visit.
Hope this helps,

Bob

Bob, southern California is indeed dangerous, and it's not because of the drive-by's...it's just the freeway traffic! (I live here as you may know.) I recommend nobody come here because of our earthquakes, which have killed me off many times over, and besides we have too many tourists.

I did hear that mysterious fact that no tourist has ever been killed in the Troubles, but wonder if it's a myth. What about the bombs? Easy for an innocent bystander to be in the wrong place at the wrong time. (Not to imply that only the tourists are innocent, most of the fine citizens of the Republic of Ireland are innocent as well!)

Most likely it is safer to be in Belfast than it was to be a tourist on September 11th in New York... Somehow I find that reasoning of little comfort, but thanks for giving it a shot, Bob! At least somebody is listening.

Yes, I do trust Helen (cambe). Isn't she great? Sometimes when I ask people questions I already know the answer but I trust them more than I do me!

I spoke to my hubby. We are a good pair because he believes nothing bad can ever happen to us while I believe if there is trouble anywhere it will find me. Put us together and you get a balanced viewpoint. Anyway hubby and I agree that the best solution, just to keep my peace of mind and still get to enjoy the trip, is to choose a guesthouse in the countryside, but close enough for a day-trip into Belfast. Then we we get there, as long as there isn't any bad news coming out of Belfast, we will drive into the city to see the Botanic Gardens and neighborhood where my gradmother grew up.

I am also looking forward to seeing the Ulster Folk and Transport Museum, as I love places which are re-creations of historical places. Plus they actually took some real historical buildings and moved them there.

Sounds like a very reasonable compromise. I tend to fall into the sme category as your husband, at least when it comes to Ireland.
I think the 'no tourist' thing is legit. Most of those bombs were targeted at specific groups, either Orange OR Green, set in areas where they worked and lived, NOT '9-11' style acts of random violence.
Also, bear in mind that British tourists make up the single largest group, percentage-wise, of all foreign tourists in Ireland. Who'd a thunk! I guess it's because Ireland is so conveniently close, familiar-yet-different and relatively cheap, as a destination.
Bob

Melissa..you need to stop obsessing about everything or it will ruin your plans. You will probably not be near the streets or villages umless you put yourself there and they have no interest in hurting tourists they are too busy verbally abusing eachother. I consider it between themselves and not for me to interfere as this has been going on for years. As for noise no normal person owning a B&B would rent a room out in Marching season when they know people will be marching their street. You are not on their radar as they will know you are tourists. Go and enjoy

P.S. The Orangemen are planning on Marching in Dublin in March...freedom of speech what can you do but make sure nothing happens and stay away from giving them publicity. Both sides do very wrong things So I stay out of it.

SiobhanP, you give good advice. We will both stay out of it. I agree that bad deeds all over the world get far too much publicity. That's why I don't read the daily papers any more. All they do is sensationalize the bad deeds. I know when something important is going on because everybody is talking about it. Then I look at the news. The TV repeats the same bad news over and over all day if you watch it. Why can't we have all our good deeds on the news?

Sorry to hear you will have to put up with free speech in Dublin now. Totally kidding! I'm American, we believe in free speech. Anyway I hope all is well in Dublin.

Sorry can't stop obsessing, that is the nature of obsession, it's a compulsion, but don't worry, I will have a great trip. I always have a great trip, even after obsession about malaria, disease, mosquitoes (that was Costa Rica) or pick-pockets (that was Italy)...I just re-direct my obsessions into more harmless pursuits. Watch out, budman taught me how to use emoticons.

I am all for Free Speech and they have a right to March it just will give others an excuse to cause problems in a highly populated shopping area and I worry that some of the locals in the area could be hurt but the stupidity of those against the March. I myself walk this area daily and its a heavily populated urban area. The city is the playground for many kids living in the flats nearby and they would often be in these areas on the weekends and I hate to think of them getting hurt. I won't go any more into it as its an impossible situation even for me to understand unless you grew up in the north and I hope we have moved on from both sides intimidating eachother. Avoid the busies towns that will have Marches as they tend to be traditional routes in smaller towns. Belfast will be fine.

Hi Melissa,

I have answered you fears on your other thread.

Glad to here that you are going to the Ulster Folk & transport museum as I think you will like it. Do be careful though, many of the houses are staffed by unpaid volunteers in period costume. They are passionate about their subject and can talk too much (particularly if it is a cold day and all the turf fires in the houses are lit). This will eat into you time. Do forgive me if I am wrong but I think Melissa you like to talk and when some of them start telling you the history and the myths it is difficult to get away!!

Helen

Helen, you are funny, yes I like to talk, but my worst problem is I am a great listener, and I can easily imagine myself getting "caught" listening to one of those volunteers going on and on! But since I have a high interest in learning more about how folks lived long ago in Ulster, it is more likely I will be having a fascinating conversation with the volunteer next to the peat fire and my family will grow weary of the conversation and run off and leave me ! In fact, that is how I will get away, I will tell my hubby in advance to leave me, and then I will say to the volunteer, "Oh my, have to go and catch up with hubby!"

Helen, since they are volunteers, are we supposed to tip them? It is confusing in a new country to figure out the tipping customs. Here in the USA I know the customs. If you come here you will find almost anybody who sells food or drinks has a tip jar on the counter. However in spite of this fact, it is perfectly acceptable not to tip for fast-food counters or buying coffee, and to tip only for good service at a sit-down restauraunt.

So I gather I will be in the folk portion of the museum for about 8 hours, while my hubby moves on to the transport museum, and goes back to the hotel for a nap?!

SiobhanP, I hope your Dublin will stay lively and be safe, and especially hope the innocents will keep well away from any possible trouble if they can. I will pray for Dublin, and I hope Dublin prays for us too, because we need it. (All that praying keeps me out of trouble!)

Melissa5, It's been awhile since I have posted. My sister and I will be in Ireland around the same time as you. We are starting out in Dublin and staying at the Fitzwilliam. It came highly recommended by a consultant at Rick Steves. So I will check it out so you will know for your second trip. I am still working on two of my Great Grandfathers Irish birthplaces. I know it was in County Cork just not sure where. I have got until July to find out. I am like you I love the planning. You should see my notebook!

hester, our trip will be for 2 weeks in the middle of July. When is yours?

I have been fascinated with all I've learned about Dublin and will look forward to reading your trip report on it. Definitely plan to see Dublin on my second trip to Ireland, when I want to spend 3 nights in Dublin near city centre.

If you love the trip planning then you probably feel as I do, the more great travel talk sites you find, the better. My 2 favorites for Ireland are fodors.com and www.IrelandYes.com . They are different and equally great. Well okay there's a third one www.tripadvisor.com travel forums but the only problem with that one is there are so many posts that there are pages of new posts just for today, and yesterday, so past posts from a week ago or more fall way down very fast! So you either get answered right away or you sink forever... IrelandYes.com is Michelle Erdvig's site.

Saw a gorgeous photo of the Book of Kells today in greendragon's trip report. What are you planning to see in Dublin?

Under absolutely NO circumstances should you ever tip a volunteer. It's extraordinarily ill-mannered even to hint at it, since you're putting them in a position they didn't ask to be put into.

If you feel exceptionaly pleased with something a volunteer guide has done, there will almost always be a contributions box for the general purposes of the organisation concerned.

In the very unusual event of there not being such a box, the poor box at the local church of your choice is, in Ireland, an acceptable alternative.

Melissa5, We are flying out of Seattle on July 10 into London then to Dublin, 11,12 Dublin, 13 Cashel or Kilkenny, 14,15, Kinsale, 16, Kenmare, 17,18, Dingle, 19,20, Doolin, 21,22, Dublin, 23,London. 24 to Seattle, then on to home about a 2 1/2 hour drive from Seattle to eastern Washington. My sister goes home the other way to the Vancouver/Portland area.

We are spending a lot of time in Dublin. My sister really wants to see Dublin and everything in the surrounding area. Which is ok with me. We travel together really well, because we both do what is important to each other. I have put together in my notebook each town and places to eat, sights to see along the way and sights in the towns. Also all the great fodors ideas.

I also like the travel websites, I didn't know about Irelandyes.com but you can bet I will sure look into it asap. I also like travel books. I think I have bought and my kids gave me for Christmas every travel book on Ireland there is. They know how excited I am about going. I love my genealogy and we are especially proud of our Irish Coughlin/McCormick/Coulahan heritage.

That's wonderful you are going as a family. My husband is not big on traveling out of the country. He will, but he knows I have a good time with my sister. My daughter (15) usually goes but we didn't invite her this time. Just a sister thing. My daughter and I go to New York every August to go school clothes shopping and to shows so I don't feel to bad for her!

I have been really busy the last few months but I have enjoyed catching up reading all your posts and the replies, everyone here has such good information. It is really appreciated!

hester, I think it's great you and your sister can travel together. Enjoy Dublin and surroundings. Looks like our paths don't cross on any days, we will always be in different places in Ireland.

I like travel books too and have also started a collection of those big picture books, coffee table size, which I usually find onsale. I have some for Ireland, and also one on castles of the world, plus hubby just gave me a beautiful book on palaces of the world. Also have one for Scotland, one of my future trips I hope.

Hubby is going to help me shop for a nice antique bookcase since I'm running out of space. We decided the price of new furniture is so high, and the quality not so great, we would rather have an antique with some character. (Plus I said someday we'll have grandchildren and an antique is already broken in!)

I added a post to your Westport thread that you might want to look at, or just use the link below. You will have to drive right by the place mentioned enroute from Dingle to the Shannon Ferry at Tarbert. Might be worth a stop.

www.kerrywritersmuseum.com


Bob

Bob, you are great, thanks for all the gems. Driving right by the Kerry writer's museum without stopping in would be like driving by a rare plant and not letting hubby stop. I will remind him of this!

Topping this for a traveller currently debating whether to see Dublin or not. Good luck with your decision!

Brining this back up to the top for all the NEW questions about Dublin.

Bob

Itallian_Chauffeur: Here I am, 4 years later...planning my second trip to Ireland! And I'm delighted to have your advice about Dublin! Yes I think you are right...fate has chosen to have me include a Dublin visit for the first time in our September 2011 trip to Ireland!

This old post might confuse people. I will definitely post a new question. But I can't sit in my chair too long as I have to go ice my bursitis of the hip. Three cheers for Dublin!