Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

Driving Trip Basque Country and/or Aquitaine Pls Advise

Search

Driving Trip Basque Country and/or Aquitaine Pls Advise

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old May 2nd, 2015, 10:27 PM
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Driving Trip Basque Country and/or Aquitaine Pls Advise

I'm planning a driving trip through Basque country with my mother some time in June. I'd like some advice on beautiful scenic drives or good places to stay. The trip will be about 10 days, more or less. I'm open to the itinerary so it would be great to have some planning advice from someone who's driven through the area.

As of now I'm planning to drive into San Sebastian probably from Madrid. Then from San Sebastian to cross over to Biarritz into France. From here on out I'm not sure what to see next. I could stick around the area, or otherwise could try driving as far as the Dordogne valley; attracted to it obviously because of the food, the nice scenery, the nice drive through the hills. Or otherwise veering off east-southeast to head for Pau and that area. Any advice?

Is the drive from Biarritz to Dordogne very beautiful, or it plain? Would it be better to stick just to the Spanish side and drive to Oviedo instead? I haven't been to any of these areas and would much appreciate advice of someone who's driven these routes. I'm looking for a scenic drive, pretty cities and good food. Something off the beaten path is better than something very touristy, as long as it is beautiful.

Also does anyone know if crossing from San Sebastian to the French side...is it very mountainous, is it a steep drive into the Pyrenees? My mother doesn't like such a drive.
guyanantigua is offline  
Old May 2nd, 2015, 11:01 PM
  #2  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Excellent drive along the coastal road (N 634) from San Sebastian towards Bilbao. Goes through charming small towns and villages such as Zarautz, Getaria, Zumaia, Deba, Mutriku (BI 2405), Ondarroa and Lekeitio, before you turn inland (BI 2238) towards the historic capital Guernica (ref Picasso's painting).

Fabulous food in all of the region, but Getaria is something special. Several top restaurants down in the small harbour area, and it goes like this: http://www.thepauperedchef.com/2007/...-in-getar.html

I can also recommend the drive from San Sebastian inland to the old university town Oñati and the close by Arantzazu sanctuary: http://www.euskoguide.com/places-bas...tzazu-tourism/

Stop for a meal at Zelai Zabal: http://www.zelaizabal.com/
http://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/restau...aa30-12375/en/
kimhe is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 08:17 AM
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks kimhe! That sounds quite nice. What about Oviedo then, would you recommend a trip rather in that direction?
guyanantigua is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 09:23 AM
  #4  
 
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
So many things to see in the Basque Country and you want to go all the way to Oviedo? I don´t think it makes sense. In France you´re missing St Jean de Luz and Bayonne, Espelette, Ainhoa, St Jean de Pied de Port...You´re also missing the wonderful Rioja wine region (Laguardia, Labastida, Elciego...), as well as Vitoria. Santander, in Cantabria, is also well worth a visit. And Oviedo, in Asturias, is of course beautiful, but it may be a bit too far for a one day drive (about 3 hours).
mikelg is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 09:26 AM
  #5  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
You might be interested in my trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-june-2011.cfm
Michael is online now  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 10:15 AM
  #6  
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 18,036
Received 22 Likes on 4 Posts
The small villages in the foothills above St-Jean de Luz are very picturesque, charming. Ainhoa, Sarè, Espellette, Ascain.
HappyTrvlr is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 11:30 AM
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks guys! I will definitely make more time to visit the French side then and the villages recommended...heard about St Jean de Luz before. Rioja sounds interesting too.

Michael, how is the drive from French Basque country to Bordeaux? Did you take the main highway and what does it look like? Scenic drive?
guyanantigua is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 04:26 PM
  #8  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It's the Landes, it's flat. We generally avoid the main highways when driving in France.
Michael is online now  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 06:38 PM
  #9  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 8,827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you are still thinking of driving from San Sebastián-Donostia into the Pays Basque, then I would take the N-121-A from Hondarribia to Vera-Bera (Navarra) and take the old smugglers route that will take you to Sare in the Pays Basque. The drive doesn't take very long and you avoid the toll booths at the old border crossing.
Robert2533 is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 07:08 PM
  #10  
 
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,148
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Espellette has the best chocolate with chili. We still talk about it.
tidy is offline  
Old May 3rd, 2015, 11:08 PM
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Robert that sounds like a fun drive...but let me ask, is the road very steep, winding in the mountains? I'm not on my own and my mother doesn't enjoy "dangerous"-looking or -feeling drives. Would appreciate some advice on this problem in general in Basque country...I want to see interesting places but would like in general to avoid difficult "mountain roads."

Perigord isn't too far away, says just a few hours by car. I will try to follow some of your pointers. Is Perigord Vert the nicest part?
guyanantigua is offline  
Old May 4th, 2015, 04:17 AM
  #12  
 
Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 2,552
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
If you are renting a car in Spain then you should drop it off before you cross over into France. Drop the car off in Spain, take a train across the border and then rent another car in France. There are usually large drop off fees if you rent a car in one country and drop it off in another. Use www.autoeurope.com for car rental info.

I think whether you spend all your time in the Basque region or go to the Dordogne is a personal decision and one that only you can make. I've never driven in Spain but I've driven around both the Basque region and the Dordogne and both areas are full of beautiful drives and scenic/interesting places to visit.

In regards to finding scenic drives and interesting places to visit I usually plan all my vacations in France by just using the Michelin map and tourist office websites. Here is my standard advice about how to use Michelin maps to explore and find interesting and scenic drives and how that can be complimented by looking at tourist office websites, which will have info about what to see and do in any region/city/town/village as well as info about where to find accommodation and restaurants/gastronomy:

Get your hands on the Michelin maps. You want the ones of the scale 1:200,000 (regional maps) or 1:150,000 (departmental maps, more detailed, cover slightly less area) for whatever regions you visit. A nice feature of the 1:150,000 maps is they show the starred attractions in the corresponding Michelin Green guidebooks. The Michelin maps have icons for all kinds of historically/touristically interesting things such as châteaux, ruins, churches, abbeys, scenic view points, caves, Roman sites, megaliths, designated scenic roads and many other things.

Usually when I'm exploring various regions in France I just look at the map and I am able to plan interesting and scenic drives just reading the map. For instance, I usually look for a designated scenic road, which are highlighted in green, and I especially look for towns with the historic church and/or château icon. With the departmental maps also look for towns/sites/attractions that have been give one or more Michelin stars. I also try to make sure the route goes through as many small villages as possible. Usually putting all these things together I find interesting and scenic drives without even knowing where I am going and with no assistance from a guide book. Often these places are never mentioned in guidebooks and remain completely unknown to many tourists.

You can buy the Michelin maps from their website and here is a link to the page that shows you the 1:200,000 scale maps of France (Regional maps):
http://tinyurl.com/4bt96ev

And here is a link to the page that shows you the 1:150,000 scale maps of France (Départementale maps):
http://tinyurl.com/6mt4n64

You could also buy them here but then you can't do research beforehand. The maps can be bought in many places such as bookstores, news stands, magazine stores, larger supermarkets, department stores, hypermarkets and in the full service rest areas on the autoroutes, just to name a few. If you're going to be traveling all over France you may find it easier to buy the Michelin Atlas, which covers all of France.

You need good guidebooks for whatever region in France in which you will be traveling. I like The Michelin Green Guides. If you need restaurant info then get The Michelin Red Guides, which cover restaurants.

And speaking of Michelin, you can go to the website viamichelin.com and get info on drive times and distances, toll and fuel costs and suggested routes (i.e. scenic routes). The drive times given do not consider stops (fuel, food, bathrooms) nor do they consider bad weather and bad traffic. I find the drive times very accurate when these factors are accounted for. The time estimates can break down when you are driving in congested urban areas, like in or near Paris, due to the unpredictability of heavy traffic or traffic jams. They can also be affected on peak travel days, specifically on autoroutes leading to/from popular destinations.

You can acquaint yourself with rules of the road in France and road signs and such and this website will give you some useful tips:

http://www.nickbooth.id.au/Tips/FrenchDrive.htm

Here is some other general advice for you. You can google the tourist office websites for any region, département, city, town or village you may want to visit. France is divided into 22 regions and each of these regions is divided into departments, a total of 95 departments (including Corsica). You will find loads of info on these websites including hotel/accommodation and restaurant info as well as what to see and do in the area. Occasionally the websites have English versions. In doing a google search enter the words "office de tourisme" followed by the name of your region, département, city, town or village and this will bring that place to the top of your search.
FrenchMystiqueTours is offline  
Old May 4th, 2015, 05:17 AM
  #13  
 
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<is the road very steep, winding in the mountains?>

This is the start of the Pyrenees, but this part of it, so close to the coast, is in general quite soft and hilly. I'm not either fond of "airy" drives, but have never had any problems in this Basque part of the Pyrenees. Further in is another story...
kimhe is offline  
Old May 4th, 2015, 05:54 AM
  #14  
 
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 260
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
We found driving along the coast in the Basque country in Spain (i.e. San Sebastian to Bilbao) to be easy and beautiful. We did a reverse trip a couple of years ago (started in the Dordogne, worked down to San Sebastian). There was a LOT of traffic along the coast in France, especially in St. Jean de Luz where the parking was also very challenging. The scenery is lovely but know that it will take you a long time to drive through the coastal towns and I second the recommendation to get into the hillside a bit (Espelette, Ainhoa, etc). Be sure to bring back some Piment d'Espelette!

We used the highway between the Dordogne and the French Basque country and it was not particularly scenic. (At that point we were actually in Bordeaux). I am sure there are prettier ways to get there.

We absolutely love the Dordogne. It is peaceful, beautiful and filled with quaint villages and terrific food.
lynnalan is offline  
Old May 4th, 2015, 06:20 AM
  #15  
 
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 849
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Please try to avoid the highways. Lynallen is absolutely correct about that. The N21 goes from the heart of the Pyrenees north through Auch and Agen into the heart of the Dordogne. It does carry some truck traffic, but, if you can travel on weekends, only refrigerator trucks are allowed, and the traffic is lighter.
Jeff801 is offline  
Old May 4th, 2015, 08:08 AM
  #16  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,982
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The trip report I referred to ends on the way to the Dordogne. You might find it useful in locating interesting small towns going from Basque country to the Dordogne.
Michael is online now  
Old May 4th, 2015, 08:36 AM
  #17  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 8,827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The drive along the old smugglers route, the NA-4410 to the D-406, as kimhe says, is an easy one though the countryside.

The road will take you past "Le Musée du Gâteau Basque", great if you want to stop and watch a demonstration of how to make a proper Gâteau Basque. The chef is a friend of a friend and speaks English.
Robert2533 is offline  
Old May 4th, 2015, 04:09 PM
  #18  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks again to all! This is very useful...I will have to plan it over the next few days. I will avoid highways and try to hit the interesting inland villages in Basque country on both sides...
guyanantigua is offline  
Old May 5th, 2015, 01:42 PM
  #19  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Does anyone know any interesting festivals, religious or otherwise, happening in the area in late May/early to mid June? Would not like to miss anything rare and well-hidden...
guyanantigua is offline  
Old May 5th, 2015, 03:54 PM
  #20  
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 8,827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
The Day of Rosé Wine Festival, San Martín de Unx (Navarra), takes place on 6 June.

The Festival of the Day of the Cherry takes place on 14 June this year in Milagro (Navarra).

The Pilgrimage to La Trinidad, outside of Lumbier (Navarra), takes place on 15 June, the Day of the Holy Trinity.

The Roman Festival of Andelos, in Mendigorría (Navarra), takes place on 27 and 28 June.

Rendez-vous aux jardins en France takes place the weekend of 5-7 June throughout most of France.

Fêtes de la Saint-Jean à Saint-Jean-de-Luz takes place 18 to 22 June to celebrate the arrival of summer (http://www.stjeandeluz-paysbasque.co...tes_stjean.php).

The "Océanes à Biarritz" festival takes place from 20 to 28 June, again, to celebrate the arrival of summer (www.biarritz-evenement.fr/les-oceanes/).

There is a Jazz Festival in Oloron from 25 June to 5 July (www.jazzoloron.com/fr_FR/).
Robert2533 is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -