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Douro valley, by train, boat? Lunch spot recommendations?

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I have been planning to take a day from Porto to have lunch along the Douro river wine country. I originally thought I would either go by train or boat, but now am having second thoughts (certainly about the boat trip). I would like a nice lunch with good traditional food and wine (and thus, don't want to drive), but am now worrying that all the towns that are easy to reach without a car so much cater to tourists that my chances of getting a good meal are next to nil. Am I wrong?

Any guidance would be welcome, although I don't want to take a professional guided tour. I'm not set on the idea of going to the Douro area. It looks lovely in pictures, but my main interest in traveling is experiencing a different culture, and would prefer not spend my time in places where foreign tourism is dominating.

This trip would be in Sept/Oct, on a weekday (which might help cut down on tourist traffic). I have been to Portugal once before and was very taken with its unique culture, its hospitable people and the variety of its food and wine, so I would like to expand on those experiences, rather than check off a tourist box. On the other hand, if it makes for a dreamy easy day trip from Porto and you know of a good unspoiled traditional restaurant, I'm all ears.

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