easygoer

Dordogne, Languedoc & Gorges, Casltes, Rivers and Caves Itinerary

Hi all, I have been working on an itinerary and hotels for our first trip to this region of France this fall. Because of all of your help, our plans have changed since our original post, so I thought best to start a new more current post.

Stu D. has so kindly come up with a detail itinerary for 17 nights to see the most of the area. Thanks Stu so much!

Here’s the link to our original post to see Stu’s detailed itinerary for anyone interested.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...m#last-comment

Couple of thoughts on our end….

This itinerary leaves out our original plans to stay in the Montpellier area. I did post our last itinerary below for reference. This is fine because this gives us a reason to come back.

We’re more of a 4 base for 3 - 5 days travelers. We enjoy driving long day trips and returning back to our hotel. We’re not use to packing up after two nights, but will do the 2 night stays if the region calls for making the loop more enjoyable. Your thoughts?

We like to stay in small and large towns (Toulouse would be the large town on this trip) to be able to walk to restaurants. We’re not adverse to inns or B&B’s outside of a town, so long as we can drive short distances at night, into town for restaurants. We like options on where to eat and not be limited to eating all meals at a B&B or a Chateau. A few nights is fine, it the food is good. We also prefer to avoid business type hotels and love hotels or B&B‘s with charm (who doesn‘t).

Any advise on where to stay in these regions and if we could tighten up the over-nights to less bases would be appreciated.

New Itinerary

Thursday - Fly into Toulouse/Rent Car Drive to Albi

Albi - 2 nights (Thursday & Friday) Hotel/B&B?

Rocamadour Area - 2 nights Stu recommends Domaine de la Rhue (Saturday & Sunday)

Sarlat - 5 nights (Monday - Friday) Hotel/B&B?

Figeac - 2 nights (Saturday & Sunday) Hotel/B&B?

Estaing or Espalion or St Eulalie - 2 nights (Monday & Tuesday) Hotel/B&B?

Gorges de Tarn - 2 nights Stu recommends Chateau de la Caze in La Malene (Wednesday & Thursday)

Toulouse - 2 nights - Visit Carcassonne on the way (Friday & Saturday) Hotel/B&B?

Sunday Flight back from Toulouse

Here’s our old itinerary for reference from my old post.

Old Itinerary

Toulouse - 4 nights or more?
Carcassonne - Day Trip or 1 night only
Montpellier - 4 nights (or a smaller base for the Languedoc)
Sarlat Base for Dordogne - 5 nights
Toulouse for flight out - 1 night

Thanks everyone!

TPAYT

Stu always gives good advice. Here's my TR from the area. It might give a bit of help on some of the places you are planning to visit.

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-and-paris.cfm

We really loved our stay in Toulouse right on Capitol Sq.---so many restaurants etc.

We rented an apt. in Sarlat but this place was in a great location and looked wonderful.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Rev...Aquitaine.html

easygoer

TPAYT - Hi! Your's was the first trip report we read. Great review. Love the picture of your bedroom and the people eating outside your window. How European. Like you, planning a trip is almost as fun as going. I'm way behind and usually have every done and book by March for a September visit. Thanks for sharing.

StuDudley

We stay in Gites - usually 2 weeks at a time, so I don't have many hotel or B&B recommendations.

However, in Toulouse we've stayed at the Mermoz twice and Le President once. Both are within walking distance of the train station where you can return the car. The Mermoz is slightly nicer.

Just picking from the Michelin Red Guide and considering ease of access by car, parking, and access to the town/city:

Albi
Either the Host St Antoine www.hotel-saint-antoine-albi.com or Chiffre www.hotelchiffre.com

Both close to the underground car park and on the "other" side of the road that divides the medieval city (easier driving in/out).

Sarlat - there are hundreds of recs on Fodors

Figeac
Le Pont d'Or www.hotelpontdor.com easy access by car and a short walk across the Cele river to town.

Espalion/Estaing
Espalion Hotel de France www.hoteldefrance12.fr We dined here and also at the nicer Le Mejane restaurant.
Estaing Le Manoir de la Fabregues just 3 K outside of town www.manoirattitude.com . We dined at l'Auberge St Fleuret in Estaing (which is also a hotel) but would not recommend the hotel. The restaurant was excellent.

Stu Dudley

easygoer

Stu, I should take you with us with all the help you've given us.

Quick question to all, how crazy would it be if we winged some of the two day areas and not book reservations in advance? We've never, ever done this in all of our dozen plus trips to Europe. Our trip will be mid-September. I'm just concerned since we're not familiar with the area, that we might wanted to stay longer or shorter in an area. I'm I crazy?

StuDudley

Always book the first place (Albi) and the last place (Toulouse). I would also book Sarlat, since it is quite popular and you may have trouble finding a place that can accommodate you for 5 nights. It might be OK to wing the in-between. However, Domaine de la Rhue is very popular. We haven't "winged it" since about '05 for 6 nights in the Alps and got the last available room when we rolled into Bonneval sur Arc at 3pm. Several days later, we hit a firefighter's convention in Annecy and had to call about 5 places before we found a room. This was in mid June.

>>Stu, I should take you with us with all the help you've given us.<<

We'll be north of you in the Loire Chateaux area.

Stu Dudley

easygoer

Easygoer again,

I was thinking about our up-coming trip. I loved Stu’s itinerary, but am wondering if it’s too condensed to the area. The days may be very similar, although different areas, driving winding, beautiful roads to scenic areas and small villages. Don’t get me wrong I love that. But, as mentioned, we like variety in our travel.

The Mediterranean Sea is calling to us. How can we fit in a few days in or around Montpellier? Our friends suggested a visit to Aigues Mortes which looks interesting for a day trip. St Cirq suggested eating seafood in Bouzigues, which looks amazing! We’d love to include some interesting seaside towns.

Since this is our first trip to the area should have a broader itinerary? We still will follow Stu’s suggestions but maybe leave out one of the 2 day villages in the middle since they are only 2 hours apart. Which one though? Perhaps we only spend 4 nights in Sarlat. Plus, we could add a few extra nights to the trip if needed. Right now we have 17 nights. In on a Thursday and out on a Sunday.

OK - Fly into Toulouse/Rent Car Drive to Albi

OK - Albi - 2 nights

Rocamadour Area - 2 nights Stu recommends Domaine de la Rhue ??? Do We Skip And Go Straight To Sarlat???

Sarlat - 5 nights ????Do We Only Stay 4 Nights???

??? Of The Next Three Areas Can We Skip One???

Figeac - 2 nights
Estaing or Espalion or St Eulalie - 2 nights
Gorges de Tarn - 2 nights Stu recommends Chateau de la Caze in La Malene

Would Like to Add Days (3 nights maybe) to Visit the Montpellier Area in or out of town

OK - Toulouse - 2 nights - Visit Carcassonne on the way (maybe stay over-night)

I really appreciated everyone's help. This is a work in progress. Thank you.

StuDudley

If you can add days - do that.

The Med around Aighes Mortes and Montpellier doesn't get a lot of "hits" here on Fodors. We've spend over 150 weeks traveling in France, and I've never encountered any guide book or suggestions by others to spend much (or any) time in this region of the Med. It seems to me to be a "mass vacation" area for the French (and other European) families. There is a major nudist resort there - but I'll assume that doesn't interest you. As I mentioned before, Aighes Mortes is OK - but Albi, Sarlat, and Figeac are more intersting, IMO. Aighes Mortes can get a little touristy.

Montpellier is somewhat similar to Avignon, Aix, and Arles (you mentioned visiting Provence on a prior trip). It's somewhat similar to Toulouse too - but we MUCH prefer Toulouse. It doesn't make much sense to me to visit Montpellier and then head directly to Toulouse if you are looking for variety. Also, be careful where you'll be on Sundays.

If you want the Med and can add some days, I would spend them around Collioure & Ceret (see my Languedoc itinerary for details). The Costa Brava from Collioure well into Spain is spectacular.

There's a lot of interesting stuff around Rocamadour. Staying near there will save some back & forth driving time (vs visiting them from Sarlat).

Stu Dudley

easygoer

Thanks again Stu for clarifying. We tend to enjoy being around the Mediterranean because of seafood and quaint fishing villages. That is of the reasons we really enjoyed Sicily. I totally understand the cement jungles, as we saw them in the south of Spain and avoided.

We've been up the Spanish coast as far as Figures, staying in S'Agaro and loved it. If we did add the French coastal area, could we skip one of the 2 night stays in the middle and change Sarlat to 4 nights? I don't want my hubbie getting burned out driving windy roads for 2 weeks. Your thoughts are great. Almost ready to book plane tickets!! Yippy!

StuDudley

If you skip Rocamadour and reduce Sarlat to 4 nights (3 1/2 days) - that isn't enough time in the Dordogne area, IMO. I sure wouldn't trade that time for time near Aigues Mortes, Sete, or Cap d'Agde. Do you know of any "quaint fishing villages" in this Aigues Mortes/Sete region???? I don't - but I've never been "moved" to seek out quaint fishing villages in this area, and no tour book or travel forum post has persuaded me to do so - perhaps because there hasn't been any. Maybe do a more specific post on Fodors or elsewhere about quaint fishing villages near Montpellier.

Also, if you skip one of the 2-nighters between the Dordogne and Toulouse - but still plan to cover the same route - that seems like more driving per day to me - on winding roads. The last stop on that Languedoc itinerary (Gorges du Tarn) is the most interesting, IMO, so I would not shorten the itinerary I suggested if you decide to explore this region.

Have you explored the Costa Brava from Banyuls in France to Cadaques in Spain when you stayed in S'Agaro? This coastal area is very interesting & scenic.

If this was my trip, I would add three days at the end - so:

Friday leave the Gorges do Tarn for Collioure instead of Carcassonne & Toulouse. Visit sites around Collioure.

Saturday - More stuff around Collioure & Ceret (see my Languedoc itinerary)

Sunday - Costa Brava - Banyuls to Cadaques.

Monday - drive up to Carcassonne & spend 3 hrs, then on to Toulouse

Tues - Toulouse

Wed - Home.

Stu Dudley

StCirq

The area right around Rocamadour, and Rocamadour itself, does little for me. I'd happily skip right by it and go straight to Sarlat, and happily spend more time around Aigues-Mortes and the Camargue with the extra days.

With 2 nights in Albi, you really need to take advantage of all the countless lovely little towns in that neck of the woods: Castelnau-de-Montmiral, Revel, Puylaurens, Cordes-sur-Ciel, St-Antonin-Noble-Val, la Salvétat, the lake in St-Férréol...endless places to explore. Also don't miss Rodez and Villefranche-de-Rouergue on your way to Figeac.

From Figeac, don't miss Conques. Try to get to St-Céré on the way from Figeac to Sarlat - especially if Jean Lurçat's tapestries are on display.

Other places of interest to the east of Toulouse to consider visiting include Lamalou-les-Bains, St-Guilhem-le-Desert, and Olargues.

On the Med, Sète is an interesting town, the last surviving true French fishing village on the Med - a bit gritty, but very lively, and miles of sandy beaches (which aren't typical on the Med). I already mentioned Bouziques - best fresh seafood on the beach ever (though Sète has that, too). The drive from Sète down to Collioure should be lovely that time of year. From Collioure, be sure to visit the next town over, Port-Vendres. When we get tired of the crowds and high prices in Collioure in summer, we just skip over to Port-Vendres for a quieter vibe and seafood at half the price.

Been to the Costa Brava few times, and though it's pretty and an interesting change from France, quite honestly I never get very far down it until I decide to turn around and go back to France.

easygoer

Hi Stu,

We are total newbie's to this area and France too, pretty much. That's why your help has been so valuable. We'll stick with the plan you outlined.

I'm excited now. Last question (for now). We'll need Michelin Map numbers 329 and 337 right? TY!

StuDudley

Plus 338.

What these maps don't include is Carcassonne. However, you don't really need a map for that drive. 338 will get you on the Autoroute from the Gorges du Tarn south - then it's all autoroute to Toulouse. Carcassonne is a "no brainer" off this autoroute. If you have a general France map - you could use that for the Tarn, Carcassonne, Toulouse drive.

Only about 2/3 of Toulouse is on the 338 map - so print something from ViaMichelin or Google to get you from the airport (not on 338 map) on to the bypass to Albi (on the 338 map). Also, how to get to the car return place at the train station in Toulouse (on 338 map but not enough detail). Maybe the car rental place at the TLS airport will have a Toulouse map. I use the Michelin Red Guide for in/out of cities - but that's perhaps too heavy/bulky for most people to drag around France.

Stu Dudley

easygoer

Stu, you are an amazing source of information with a heart! We owe you a bottle of champagne. I promise to post a trip report. I may have a few more questions, but time to start booking.

Thanks to all Fodorites who helped pull this vacation together.

best regards,

easygoer

easygoer

Hi StCirq,

I just saw your post. I have a bad habit of jumping to last post and didn't scroll up. Thanks so much. I know you have a home in the area so your input is so valuable. You're comment on Bouziques made us dream of the sea.

Our friend's family who lives in the area, suggested Aigues-Mortes and the Camargue at the very start of our planning. We're still fine tuning and may add more days. Plus we have only done Provence west of St Remy and haven't done Nimes and Pont du Gard area since there was terrible flooding in 2002 when we were there.

Thanks for mentioning all the towns near Albi. Perhaps Albi deserves an extra day since we will be jet-lagged.

All in all, we have realized that this area of France is more than worthy of more time. When we toured Northern Spain, we split it into two - 2 week trips and still never made it to the Pyrenees. Thanks again.

StCirq

You're welcome. I think Stu's itinerary advice is invaluable for many people, but as someone who actually "lives" in the area for weeks/months at a time, and doesn't need to follow an itinerary any day of the week other than to go explore somewhere, I have a very different perspective. I don't need itineraries. I wander around at will, sampling at leisure what's the best on offer everywhere. I just wanted to give you a sampling of the endless wonderful places to visit in the area. Many of the places Stu mentions on his itineraries are indeed worthy destinations; others, IMO, only so-so. But it's all subjective, and much depends on whether you want to be tied to a moment-by-moment itinerary or not. To me, the whole area is so laid back by its innate character that even the word "itinerary" is almost not necessary. Just go and enjoy!

StuDudley

>> but as someone who actually "lives" in the area for weeks/months at a time<<

We "live" in France two months every year also. We've stayed in over 55 different gites & apts for typically 2 weeks at a time, in different regions of France. We've stayed in several gites multiple times in the Dordogne & Provence. We'll often spend a few days at the start and/or end of a trip in hotels & B&Bs too. All total, we've spent around 150 weeks vacationing in France.

Stu Dudley

Pvoyageuse

"and miles of sandy beaches (which aren't typical on the Med)."
From Le Grau du Roi down to Collioure (200 km+) the coast is nothing but sandy beaches.
(I actually live in the area).

StCirq

Yes, but the Riviera beaches that are by far more popular with visitors are typically rocky/pebbly.

StuDudley

Juan les Pins, Cannes, and Pampalonne (famous St Tropez beach) are all sandy. I think Antibes is sandy too - but we've never "beached" there.

Stu Dudley