OReilly

I am planning my itinerary for a short trip to the Dordogne next week. I would welcome any comments you have on the following itinerary. Am I doing too much or too little each day? Is there anything I am missing out on that I MUST see? Does the itinerary make sense, or should I rearrange things?

Wednesday: Drive from Beugency to Domme (4hours). Visit Sarlat on the way.
Thursday: Drive along the Dordogne (La Roque, Castleaud, Chateau Milandes, Baynac et Cazanac, St. Cyprien, Limeuil)
Friday: Grotte du Pech Merle, Cahors, St. Cirq Lapopie
Saturday: Rocamadour, St. Cere, Figeac
Sunday: Laseaux II, Prehistoric Museum, Bourges and the to Paris.

I would appreciate any input you can provide.

Many thanks in advance.

Regards ? Ger

Underhill

St.-Cirq, are you there?

wren

to the top for st. cirq!!

travginny

Topping for St.Cirq

Underhill

St-Cirq has replied to another question and so is around somewhere. ???

klondike

Well, while waiting for StCirq I'll offer my two cents worth...

It's not that it can't be done, it's just I don't think you will get much of an "in depth" experience doing that many towns each day. I definitely would count on drive time taking quite a bit longer than what viamichelin and other navigational aids tell you (winding, narrower roads, traffic etc).

Lastly, Sunday's drive to Paris can be done (I used to drive Brest-Paris in a day before the nice authoroutes) but I think it will be a looooong and if you're visiting Lascaux before getting on the road. That means no early start-you'll be racing through the country, unable to stop and enjoy things as you come upon areas of interest. I'd take a closer look at Sunday's drive especially if you need to be in top form the next day.

A lot boils down to different styles...I prefer to see less and see it better. And I feel pretty assured of visiting again. You'll see what works for you. Bon Voyage! and let us know how it works out.

dugi_otok

Building on klondikes recommendations. Try this rearrangement.Be prepared to skip something.

WED- Leave Beugency very early
Sarlat Morning Market Overnight in Montignac ( La Roseraie-dinner there.)

THUR- Take earliest English tour of Lascaux II
Le Eyzies (short stop)
St. Cyprien (short stop)
Beynac (tour castle)
Castlenaud (tour castle)
Overnight Domme( Hotel Esplanade)

FRI- Les Milandes-
TourAnything you missed on Thursday
La Roque
Canoe ?
Rocamador- over rated for tourists, under rated for pilgrims ( Be a pilgrim)
Overnight Domaine de la Rue, Mme Jooris recommended dinner at Hotel Les Vielles Tours

SAT- Grotte due Pech ( make a reservation ahead)
Cahors ( Market day)
St. Cirq Lapopie( overnight)

SUN- Figeau
Bourges
Paris

dugi_otok

Some added info. Lascaux II is a highlite.It is truly amazing and the English tour provides info you really need. We arrived at the Tourist office about 20 minutes after it opened and the 1st English tour was sold out ( we were there in May). So it took up the whole morning. That is why I recommend the night before nearby. In addition the La Roseraie is a good place to stay ( big beautiful 19th -century townhouse, comfortable rooms, nice garden for outdoor breakfast, young owner who provides gourmet cuisine at reasonable prices ( see Foders Hotels and Country Inns of Character and Charm in France at my favorate library-Barnes & Noble). You might get shut out using your itinerary and not be able to see Lascaux II.

The castles, fortresses at Beynac and Castlenaud require some uphill hoofing. Guide books say no English tours, but they were available when we were there. These fortresses were more interesting than the guide books led us to believe.

Les Milandes is closed noon to 2 PM. If you are nearby at other than this time on Thurs you could visit then. There is a lot of Josephine Baker stuff inside, but if you don't know about her, rent the made for TV film on video about her life before the trip. Amazing woman, another site that exceeded expectations.

The Esplanade and Domme is a good place to spend the night, great views, great rooms( ask for a viewroom), great cuisine, great service with a friendly staff. The hotel is at the top of the one way road into Domme, don't miss tit or you will be heading down and will have to make another lap though Domme.

As you meander down the country roads on your trip you will see terrific scenery around every turn. So take it slow and enjoy.

There are fields for parking at the low end of Rocamadour or a parking lot at the top( you take an elevator down), take your pick. There are less crowds early or late.

Another site recommended to me was Gouffre de Padirac, facinating caves but no cave art. We could not fit it in to our schedule.

StCirq

Hi, Ger:

Don't know how I missed this, so thanks for all the topping.

This really isn't a "Dordogne itinerary." The only day you're spending in the Dordogne is Thursday (well, ok, Wednesday afternoon). The rest of your destinations are outside the Dordogne and farther than I would venture to get a taste of the Dordogne.....BUT it's your trip.

Some specific suggestions:

1.Go to Font-de-Gaume instead of Lascaux. It will involve a little less driving, and it's original, not a replica. That's not to say that Lascaux II isn't amazing - it is, but Font-de-Gaume is better.

2. Visit the Musée National de Préhistoire only if you are really interested in pre-history.

3. I wouldn't put either Les Milandes or Limeuil on a one-day-see-it-all list (unless Josephine Baker or elbow bridges hold particular fascination). Probably wouldn't put St-Cyprien on it, either. I WOULD put Monpazier on that list, and maybe the abbey at Cadouin, and since I just can't imagine visiting the Dordogne without going to a market, I'd have to add the Thursday market in Lalinde as well. Also, though I'd drive up and see both Castelnaud and Beynac, I wouldn't take tours of both in such a packed day. I'd choose Castelnaud over Beynac because I love the movie that explains how to sack a castle, but they're both good.

4. It's hard to say without knowing where you'll be staying whether or not Saturday works or not. It's slow driving in those parts, and I should think if you're going to head over to Rocamadour you'd also want to see Collonges-la-Rouge, maybe Martel, and definitely the Gouffre de Padirac. But that would be an impossibly long day with everything else you've got planned.

5. Getting back to Paris, if you're driving, is pretty much an all-day affair.I don't think you'll manage to do much of anything else on that day except stop along the way, unless you start at the crack of dawn, in which case you won't make a visit to Lascaux.

Have you read "From Here You Can't See Paris?" If so, or maybe even if not, you may want to think about lunch or dinner at La Récré in Les Arques, just outside Cahors. But then, La Balandre in the Hotel Terminus right in Cahors is really hard to beat for fabulous local food.

leuk

Yikes, you must really like driving! It takes longer than you think to go from Point A to B. Some great cave painting and caves can be found in Grotte de Cougnac. THere were only 3 of us on the tour and it's much less congested than Laseaux II. Plus, it's original.It's 30 km south of Sarlat.
If you go to Rocamadour, you should see
Gouffre de Padirac, which is in the same general direction. Forget Milandes.
Castlelaud is great but once you've seen one castle, well... you've seen them all.
If the weather is good, we highly recommend canoing down the Dordogne.
Canoes can be rented in Cenac. It's an easy trip and beautiful. It was one of the highlights of our trip. Cahors is quite a distance so why not relax and see Sarlat. It's a pretty town and if you like walnuts, foie gras and duck, you'll be in heaven.
While in Domme, La Flambe is a good restaurant. Prices are reasonable and the food is good. Don't plan to do anything between noon and 2 pm except eat, because all the tourist places are closed.
The Dordogne region is lovely. We rented a house there for a week last Sept and just scratched the surface.
The scenary is divine so bring lots of film.

OReilly

Hello all

I am in the Hotel L'Esplanade in Domme, seated at the window of my room, which has a spectacular view of the valley, drinking a glass of Cahors. AHHH - the wonders of technology

Thank you all for taking the time to correct my insane itinerary. The drive from the highway to Domme has convinced me that my original plans are ambitious, to say the least! I have downloaded your suggestions and will now plan a more sensible visit.

Domme is divine. It is pouring out of the heavens here - the weather has followed me all the way from the Loire. I am quite at home - this is true Irish weather.

I'll return later after I have read your posts.

With best regards .... Ger

Josh

Ger,
Please submit a quick (or long) review of L'Esplanade and of Domme. We're considering it as a base for a few days in October.

While I'm not really looking for nightlife, I'd like to base in a town offering a few good dining options. Michelin Red lists zero restaurants in Domme. Will you please describe the town?

Thank for your help,
j.

Scarlett

Hi Ger, Wish I were there~
Have fun!

Lexma90

We stayed at l'Esplanade during a trip to the Dordogne in May, 2002. Our room was in a separate building about a block from the main hotel. A little bit worn, but very spacious and we didn't mind the walk. The main building is on the edge of the hill/cliff on which Domme is located. The tables outside are good for drinks and soaking up the view. The staff was very pleasant and helpful.

The restaurant at l'Esplanade is very good; it either currently or formerly has/had a Michelin star. We enjoyed ourselves immensely and it was the only meal during our trip where I actually got my fill of foie gras! We didn't eat at any other restaurants in Domme during our stay; we drove to various well-recommended restaurants nearby. The restaurant overlooks the Dordogne valley.

Domme is a bastide (walled) town, very small and cute, and quite touristy. One reason I might not choose l'Esplanade again to stay is that the drive up and down to and from Domme each day, along the narrow - but picturesque - streets was a bit of a chore. La Belle Etoile, in la Roque Gageac, is a hotel I would consider. The location was pretty and convenient, right alongside the river (albeit with the road in between the river and the hotel), though as we didn't stay there I can't tell you anything about what the inside is like.

Dave

StCirq originally posted:

"1.Go to Font-de-Gaume instead of Lascaux. It will involve a little less driving, and it's original, not a replica. That's not to say that Lascaux II isn't amazing - it is, but Font-de-Gaume is better"

As is almost always the case, I agree completely with her statement, and found our visit to Font-de-Gaume to be one of the ABSOLUTE highlights of our trip last year. However, make CERTAIN that you have tickets in advance.

They only take a few groups of 20 persons through the caves/day. It was explained that the CO2 breathed out could cause the paintings to "dissapear". I found it a bit challenging on my limited French to make reservations thru the phone number, but had a professor friend make the resv for us and it worked out fine.

Just remember that there'll be NO way to "attach" yourself to a sold out session.

Best wishes for a great trip!! Dave

MelJ

Just want to say "Hi" to Ger and hoping the weather is lovely for you!

OReilly

Hello all:

I am back at the hotel after a fantastic day. Why oh why has it taken me so long to visit the Dordogne

I started early and explored Domme as the market traders were setting up. There were almost no tourists in the town at all. I am so glad I decided to stay here. Admittedly, as Lexma90 points out, the drive up through thee town is steep, but after Cord sur Ciel I gained my merit badge in driving through hill towns. I would caution drivers that don?t normally drive standard that they may find it a little onerous. Josh, I have lots of photos which I will upload on my return and you can see this lovely town for yourself.

I then visited La Roque-Geac, Baynac, Castelaud, Monpazier and Cadouin ? each one a jewel. The weather is very overcast with intermittent rain, so my shots of the countryside did not turn out too well. I have taken over 200 photos today!

I have revised my schedule as follows:

Fri:: Les Eyzies (Font de Gaume), the museum and Sarlat
Sat: Pech Merle, St Cirq, Cahors
Sun: Set out early, drive to Bourges, spend a few hours, drive to Paris

Thanks for all you advice and good wishes.

Best regards ? Ger

Michael

In case you do not know it already, you might want to see the house of Jacques Coeur in Bourges. If interested in pottery, the village of la Borne between Bourges and Sancerre is a village of potters.

StCirq

Josh: There are some eating establishments in Domme other than the Esplanade, but nothing terribly appealing. But nearby in Vitrac and Sarlat there are more choices.

If you want a town that has several good restaurants, I'd check out Le Bugue. There's Les Trois As, l'Aubrevoir, Le Cygne, Les Fontenilles, as well as a few cafés, tea rooms, an Asian restaurant, an Italian restaurant, and a few others. It's a great little market town, too.

La_Tour_de_Cause

Greetings to all. I'm new to this site, having just stumbled across it yesterday while Googling "Font de Gaume" for a visiting friend. I'm looking out my window into the grey mists of the Céou River valley, just 2 km upstream from Castelnaud on the Dordogne, and I'd like to wish a hearty "Bienvenue" to O'Reilly.
Sounds like you're on the right track now. Font de Gaume is an absolute "must-see," even for those who think they have no interest in prehistoric cave art, or archaeology.
Personally, I'd skip Rocamadour, but some people seem to think it's fabulous. But the incredible number of gift shops selling plastic swords, etc., puts me off. I have the same problem with Carcassonne.

Visits to the chateaux of Castelnaud and Beynac are best in the kind of grey, gloomy weather we're having today. Really brings out the medieval character. The craggy profile of Beynac's silhouette against a grey sky is magnificent. Save canoeing and randonnées for the balmy days of summer. Come back again in sunnier times and enjoy it all.
Oh, and a new discovery for me...the village of Paunat, west of Le Bugue. There's an abbey there, and in the adjacent building is a fine new restaurant managed by a charming, handsome and talented young man who also happens to speak excellent English. We spent three blissful hours there last Sunday, languishing like lizards on the terrace and enjoying our Sunday repast. Nice wine list, reasonable prices, well-prepared food, lovely setting. Of course, it was a sunny day.
I'll check in more often, now that I've discovered all you fellow Perigord-lovers. Have a wonderful visit, OReilly. And come back again!