Dordogne and Loire Valley

Old Aug 24th, 2016, 07:57 AM
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Dordogne and Loire Valley

I am just starting to research a 2 week trip to the Dordogne and Loire Valley that would take place in September 2017. Is there a reason to see one area before the other? If I go to the Loire Valley first I would fly into Paris and take the train there. If I go to the Dordogne first I am not sure which airport would be best to fly into. I plan on basing myself in Sarlat. Either way we will rent a car. Any thoughts?
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 08:08 AM
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I would fly into Toulouse first, perhaps stay 2 nights, rent a car, and then visit the Dordogne/Sarlat. Then drive to the Loire, visit, drive to St Pierre des Corps (Tours), return the car, then off to Paris by train. We left the Loire for Paris from Blois 2 years ago - but returning the car was a little more complicated in Blois.

We're heading to Toulouse this afternoon from SFO.

When we return in a month, e-mail me at [email protected] & ask for my 20+ page itinerary for the Dordogne. I've sent my various itineraries to over 5,000 people on Fodors.

Stu Dudley
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 08:21 AM
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There is no really good reason to see one before the other, except perhaps the weather might be a tad bit warmer in the Loire than in the Dordogne in September and starting north and moving south might have some tiny weather benefits. Probably not enough to be concerned about. Well, come to think of it, you might want to visit Aliénor d'Aquitaine and Richard Coeur de Lion at Fontevraud before heading into Aquitaine.

The Michelin Green Guides to the Loire and the Périgord and Lot are the best guides you can use for research. Michelin maps as well.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 10:44 AM
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Stu - thanks for your advice and kind offer. Have a great trip!

StCirq - I will definitely obtain the Michelin guides and maps.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 11:34 AM
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Land in Paris, rent a car to see the Loire valley and the Dordogne. On the way to the Loire valley, see Chartres. If you use local roads to get to the Dordogne, stop by St. Savin, about 20 km. east of Poitiers to visit the abbaye and especially its church.

These sets might give you some ideas:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...401029366/show

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...575935008/show

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...276890499/show
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 11:38 AM
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I forgot: drop the car off in Brive-la-Gaillarde and take the train back to Paris. Purchased the tickets three months in advance (non-exchangeable, non-refundable) and you should get a big fare reduction.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 12:28 PM
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Yes buy train tickets like Michale says far in advance to nab neat discounts - www.voyages-sncf.com or www.capitaintrain.com - same trains same fares on both. check on how fast the train is too - you want a TGV connection - the old conventional line goes to Paris too (Austerlitz instead of TGVs to Montparnasse)but is much slower and usually cheaper.

Play around if fares from say Limoges or Perigeux are cheaper go from there to Paris. Check www.seat61.com for good advice on these discounts - for general train info I always also say to check out www.ricksteves.com; www.budgeteuropetravel.com - for things like first vs 2nd class, etc.

I suggest starting in the Loire Valley because even a tiny bit of better weather there is nice and it can IME of staying in the area off and on for years in September get cool and rainy in the Loire (or may be nice and sunny) whereas Dordogne will dependably be better weatherwise.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 12:39 PM
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Agree with Pal, but the website is either www.capitainetrain.com or www.captaintrain.com
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 12:41 PM
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Michael thanks for your suggestions

PalenQ I appreciate all the information. I will certainly check out all those websites.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 01:21 PM
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the old conventional line goes to Paris too (Austerlitz instead of TGVs to Montparnasse)but is much slower and usually cheaper.

Paris to Brive is four hours, Paris to Bordeaux on the TGV is four hours.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 01:28 PM
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Bordeaux is much farther from Paris than Brive but I guess 4 hours is less than I thought and with that train even a regular fare may not be that much- actually Michale to take a TGV link from Brive would be an hour longer than the normal train route to Austerlitz- I mistook TGVs serving Brive directly.

But Libourne - very close to the heart of the Dordogne and farther from Paris than Brive has TGVs that take just a tad over 3 hours. But if plans are to drive north as far as Brive then from there yes IC trains are the best. Sorry for the mistake.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 01:42 PM
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>

No, it's just under 3 hours now. Libourne is about 15 minutes less. Brive to Paris is 4 hours normally, but it's a closer drive from the Sarlat area than Bordeaux.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 01:48 PM
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but it's a closer drive from the Sarlat area than Bordeaux.

and definitely easier when leaving the Dordogne.

Let split the difference: current SNCF information on the web gives a TGV leaving Paris at 14:06 and arriving in Bordeaux at 17:36.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 02:14 PM
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About half the direct Bordeaux to Paris TGVs take 3 h 15 or 3 h 17 mins and the other half about 3:45. (From www.bahn.de/en - the Wunderbar and easy to use German Rail site for schedules of all European trains.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 02:23 PM
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In 2012, we visited both the Dordogne and Loire Valley. Check out Chapters Three through 12...lots of photos and ideas for your trip. Have fun.

http://travelswithmaitaitom.com/france-2012/

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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 02:37 PM
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The Loire castles are neat but besides that IME of being in the Loire many many times it can't compare in physical beauty or having neat ancient cities like the Dordogne has (plus many other neat things like caves).
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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You guys are right. The fastest trains (TVG) from Paris to Bordeaux are about 3 hours 15 minutes. I thought it was faster - I fell asleep on the last train there and it seemed like I was in Paris in a heartbeat. Still, I'd drive to Brive from Sarlat to take the train back to Paris instead of wending my way back to Bordeaux. Or I'd take the pokey train from Périgueux to Limoges and then on to Paris. Slow but cheap and really good scenery and an experience.

I have made innumerable trips to the Loire Valley (8 or so when I was a tour guide and probably 5 or so after that). The history is rich, some of the cities like Saumur and Angers and Tours have a lot to offer, there are some wonderful small villages like Chinon, but the coutryside just lacks the appeal of so much of the rest of France, IMO. I could never say I don't like going there, but I wouldn't rank it high on scenic value.
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 06:39 PM
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maitaitom, I actually already read your trip report. It was as entertaining and loaded with useful information as all your reports are. I took lots of notes!
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Old Aug 24th, 2016, 08:20 PM
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I would put the Dordogne after the Loire simply because I enjoyed it more -- but that's an individual thing, and hard to know in advance if both areas call to you equally.

Enjoy!
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Old Aug 25th, 2016, 12:07 PM
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but the coutryside just lacks the appeal of so much of the rest of France, IMO. I could never say I don't like going there, but I wouldn't rank it high on scenic value.>

My take exactly after biking and driving around the Loire many times. rather boring scenery actually- if it did not have all those castles it would be as well known as the neighboring Sologne, a much prettier area.
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