Discoveries in Hamburg and Munich

It's been about a month since I returned from four nights in Hamburg and five in Munich. Both cities are beautiful, each in it's own way, but equally delightful.

Hamburg: I could feel the economy in high gear in Hamburg. From the swank shops near Neuer Wall (Hermes - oo la la - you have to go there just to look at the China) to the continuous traffic at the port, the place oozes mercantile power. It's actually pretty difficult to get a photo in any area of Hafencity without a building crane looming above the canals. I loved it. It rained a bit, was windy a bit, cold a bit, sunny a bit and very walkable. Public transport is easy and cheap but I still haven't figured out how to orient myself once I emerge from the metro (for another forum).

Hotel: We stayed at the Grand Elysee on Rothembaumchausee, for 209 Euros and were very satisfied. Our room was comfortable and clean, you get all the mod cons, two restaurants, a grand lobby, a helpful friendly staff. It was a short walk to Binnenalster and the Planten un Blomen park. I'd definately stay there again.

Restaurants: We ate at Fischmarket with friends and thought the food was OK, the ambience marred by the fact that all the patrons were other tourists (for me, never a good sign), and the service was dreadful. After ordering wine and a starter, a plate with various selections of Sushi starters, our waitress insisted that the one starter wouldn't be enough for us. There ensued a bit of a back and forth about that but she was insistent so we all figured the portions must be miniscule. Therefore we ordered a second array of the traditional starters. When the starters arrived, we realized we should have stuck to our guns because each starter plate was a meal in itself! Oh well, not to worry. Our waitress then brought our wine (we ordered two bottles, one red another white) to our table ALREADY OPENED!! I've never seen that anywhere in the world. Not only that but she brought the WRONG wine. The red was correct but the second bottle was also a red, not the white my husband ordered. He told her that and she argued AGAIN. Oh no, she was adamant that we ordered the one she brought and that was the one she insisted we accept. We should have sent both back and demanded unopened bottles, but regardless, this time my husband let her have it, she sulkingly brought the white wine we ordered (I don't remember if it was also open). My husband demanded another wait person who was wonderful and the rest of the evening went well. We were very embarrassed because our friends were OUR guests. Unlike just about everyone else on the planet, I won't go back.

A traditional German restaurant we loved was Brodersen on Rothenbaumchaussee. Our concierge suggested this place which was on a residential street close to our hotel. What a delightful experience we had. The place is cozy and fills up with a mix of locals and tourists. We ate schnitzel and potato soup and potato salad and it was great. The staff are just plain happy. Yes, really happy. Our waitress laughed, joked and oh, how I wish we had taken our friends there! The food was inexpensive - about 15 euro for a dinner plate - and the wine was just what we ordered I'd definitely return.

We had a quick, cheap, good meal at Ponti on Gansemarkt. We were caught in a downpour and took refuge there. The place was packed with all sorts of people and fit the bill at the time. I'd return for a good cheap meal.

Stadbaekerei in Gansemarkt had out of this world pastries but be warned, the lines can be long.

To be continued...

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jahlie on Nov 9, 09 at 03:25 PM

Hamburg continued - The Kunsthalle was fabulous and it took up most of one day. I love museums, and always linger over all that beauty in one place. St. Petrikirche and Jokobikirche were lovely and not as ornate as many other churches I've visited in Europe. I was amazed at the rebuilding effort since WWII, which has created a dynamic cityscape with old next to new next to rebuilt. I could be wrong, but I felt the heart of the city is the port. It's massive and active and people are strolling everywhere.

We traveled to Munich on the ICE, which was fast, comfortable, and quiet. I bought the tickets a couple of months before leaving and got a special deal. Two first class tickets with assigned seats for 125 Euro. Second class is just fine, but this was a good deal.

Gotta go and will continue Munich when I get the chance...
hsv on Nov 10, 09 at 02:12 PM

Sorry to hear about the bad dining experience, which I hope did not ruin it for you. Normally service was where Fischmarkt really excelled in my experience - either something went terribly wrong there (which it almost seems, as apparently the second waiter was better), or their standards have slipped (and I don't remember it being overrun with tourists either). Thanks for the heads up - I'll take a look at it the next time I am in town. Hope the rest was good enough to compensate.
mariam47 on Nov 11, 09 at 11:38 AM

Great trip report. My husband and I visited Munich in May and would love to read about your experiences.
annetti on Nov 13, 09 at 10:26 PM

Thanks for your report, especially interested in what you had to say about Hamburg, since we have a trip planned there this summer. Is public transport in Hamburg by zones? Do you remember what it cost to ride the trams? Thanks very much.
hsv on Nov 14, 09 at 03:08 AM

- http://www.hvv.de/en/index.php?

- It is by zones (called "Ring").

- There are no trams (anymore and yet as a demented coalition resolution has led to the redevelopment and planned re-introcdction of certain tram lines that will waste precious space for cars, but that is of no concern for you), but a wide choice of
- S-Bahn trains (above ground trains in general, portions are underground).
- U-Bahn trains (the supposed equivalent to a subway, but actually large portions of it are above ground, too.)
- Buses.
- Ferries on the river Elbe (Alster boats not incl).

-Costs are marginal.

- A single trip will cost between EUR 1.30 (a few bus stops in the inner center only) and EUR 7.20 (but that would take you some 60 km outside the city). In most cases single fare will be EUR 2.70.

- A daypass for use after 09.00 h a.m. is EUR 5.30 (so it pays off with a return trip to one destination already) if you stay within the city and its closer suburbs.

- A day pass for up to 5 travelling together is EUR 8.95 for use after 09.00 h a.m. if coinfined to almost all of the city and its closer suburbs.

- A 3-day pass will set you back EUR 15.60.

- A Hamburg Card will cost you EUR 8.50 for a day and EUR 18.90 for 3 days and entitles you and up to 3 kids 6 - 14 years to free travel and discounts at sights, restaurants etc.
http://www.hamburg-tourism.de/en/search-booking/hamburg-card-co/hamburg-card/

- Kids under 6 years have free travel, over 14 pay full fare. In between there are reduced fares.
annetti on Nov 14, 09 at 03:41 PM

hsv: Thanks very much for such a comprehensive reply. I wonder if you know if there is a weekly or monthly pass available. We'll be in Hamburg for five weeks. Thanks again. I will have to check out some of your websites that you so thoughtfully provided.
annetti on Nov 14, 09 at 04:50 PM

hsv: There is a very reasonable monthly and weekly pass offered. Thanks for the website.

gruezi on Nov 15, 09 at 02:18 AM

Looking forward to hearing about Munich...

Thanks for the report on Hamburg!

gruezi

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