Did anyone else find Rome a horror?

I'm already realizing my title will bring serious criticisms... I was all fired up when I wrote it and didn't change it as I rationalized! I am sure I will hear about it

I don't think your message header is badly chosen, nor badly worded? It's provocative - - and I am going to agree with you - - at least a little bit.

It's one of the reasons that I so often throw out caveats as to how much time to plan for rome, whether to put it first thing off a plane, and use the expression "Rome is very, VERY intense".

I have had the experience of my wife's aunt and uncle almost not enjoy themselves with their first two days in Rome (we had two more days at the end of an eight day trip, and they liked it much better once they let Italy get in their bolood a bit more).

The problem is expectations - - yours failed to match your reality for a certain portion of your Rome experience - - and theirs did too.

It's not a city to be enjoyed by all, on one visit.

And now, after five times there, it's a place I want to go back to, more than ever.

It's a perfectly good thread, and I hope it generates plenty of contrasting opinions.

Best wishes,

Rex
rbmd@usa.net

I loved it. I was expecting to dislike it, but just the reverse. I liked, to use Rex's term, the intensity of it. I loved the vim and vigor, the old and the new.
I can't wait to get back there.

I was in Rome in September. I loved it so much I'm going back next week. However, I'm a big city person. I live and work in Chicago so I didn't find Rome overly intense. I like the pace. I'm one of the rare people that didn't like Venice though. Different strokes.

I too hope we can generate some discussion...

I had wanted to love it and didn't think I had alloted enough time to such a grand city, but I ended up being glad we only had 3 days. I know our hotel being out of the way was part of it - the only bad one of hte trip, Hotel Oxford, billed as 'near the Spanish steps', a very relative term I assure you!.

What I am wondering if there is a better time of year? When is the best time to be in Rome?

I find Rome large and hectic and very very noisy. As a New Yorker on the first visit I couldn't wait to get back to the "peace and quiet" of my home town. I think that the metro system leaves a lot to be desired (stops too few, and too widely spaced). I am a dedicated walker while traveling, but I found myself taking many more taxis in Rome than I usually do on average on my trips, because some distances bwtween sights were quite long, the long walks took too much time (and weren't all that interesting in some cases), the metro wasn't as convenient, and the buses seemed slow.

BUT: the historical sites are amazing, the churches literally awesome and almost countless, the art breathtaking, the food excellent, the juxtaposition of the ancient right next door to the new, unique. And there is a local energy that makes me smile.

I absolutely agree with Rex that it is a city that may be hard to appreciate in just two or three days. I know that's all the time that some people have, and I hope that they can like Rome in spite of the shortness of time, but I suspect that for some, enjoyment may be inversely proportion to the number of days. I luckily had almost six days on my first visit, and I had put Rome off while having already visited other places in Italy on previous trips.

I can't wait to go back again.

I enjoy Rome in the "off-season"...winter. I came back at the end of last month & am headed back there at the end of this month. But I'm the type of person who has a kind of a difficult time relaxing in somewhat traditional ways, like going to a beach; I've always needed a lot of intellectual stimulation, and Rome has a more than ample supply for me.

"per ogni uccello, suo nido e bello"
(each bird finds his/her own nest beautiful)

BC

I was there in Sept of 2001 with a tour group and only spent 2 days there...I cannot wait to get back....it was the hightlight of my trip throughout Western Europe. The history, the sights, the food...I cannot wait to get back there this May with my husband!

Jamie

I meant to respond to the previous question
I most often do my European traveling
in late Sept- early October. Rome has been among those trips.

from the lowlife albanian cab driver trying to rob us, to the gypsies swarming us at the train station, rome is definetly
a place that that would take getting used to, escpecially if you expect quaint. same goes for florence, nothing laid back about either of them.

I actually love the fact that this vibrant, modern city has grown up around bits of ruins here and there - for me, those contrasts are part of what makes it exciting.

I find Rome fascinating, but somewhat exhausting. For this reason, I prefer to start my trip in Rome while I am excited and motivated to push on and see things, then move on to a different city where I can slow my pace a bit.

You're correct that public transportation is not all that good, and things are fairly spread out. Just crossing the street at some locations can be a bit of a challenge, and it can be physically tiring to walk everywhere, especially if it's at all hot and/or humid (which can certainly be the case.)

There are other Italian cities I love more, but Rome is filled with so many worthwhile things to see and do that I'll definitely be returning on future trips.

Hi. I had low expectations the first time I visited. It was only a several hour visit at the end of a short vacation in Tuscany. My second trip was only for two nights, so I am still a novice.
I was surprised that I liked it as well as I did. BUT. I think it is a misconception to tell everyone that you can walk everywhere very easily. This is a comment I have heard more than once.
For example, it is a pretty good hike from the Borghese gardens to the Campo de Fiori. And the walk from the Coliseum to the Vatican is a hefty hike. Something that someone may not be prepared for since the general advice makes Rome seem like everything is very close together.
The traffic on those streets can be horrendous. And we had difficulty finding our way at times from point A to B given that some of the streets curve. And we could not seem to get the hang of the bus system. We also felt that taxis were expensive.
Also, Rome can be horrible when the weather is very warm. So, the end of June may not be a good time.
I say. Different strokes and all that.
I must say I liked it more than my husband.
You are certainly allowed a negative opinion.

I have to admit, I was a little daunted by Rome on my first day there. I had been warned though by years of looking at National Geographic magazines, especially the famous timed photo of traffic rushing around the Colusium.
After I got over my jet lag, had a good night's sleep I was ready to take on Roma! It was exciting, exhilarting and mentally stimulating as Book Chick mentions.

I live in So. Calif. where we dont have a central city any more, so I really like to be able to walk out of the hotel in right into the thick of the action. But I also like to balance my trips to Italy with days of leisure in Tuscany, Umbria or Campania.

Did not expect to like Rome but ended up loving it. Going back in September. We found it very easy to walk to all the sights if you are staying in a central location. The bus system also works fairly well once you get the hang of it. Taxis were expensive but no more than other large cities. Rome is a great place to just walk and walk - every turn of the corner brings a new surprise. A great blend of new and ancient. Plenty of cafes to relax and unwind if the pace gets too hectic. Piazza Navona is an especially great place to chill out with a cocktail, just watching all the people walk by.

BC, so beautifully put!

"per ogni uccello, suo nido e bello"
(each bird finds his/her own nest beautiful)

I was in Rome for five nights the end of January - I had been there for 3 days on a three-city Italy trip 6 years ago. So this time I did not go back to the Vatican, the Borghese Museum, Coliseum and concentrated on "lesser" sites (actually did a few of the same things Bookchick mentioned in her recent posting) plus a trip to Ostia Antica and the hop-off hop-on Archeobus. Despite some chilly rainy weather and a pickpocket attempt in Termini, I thought Rome was great and hope to go back and see the myriad of things I haven't got to yet. I live in NYC and can't really see Rome described as commerical like NYC. Possibly you might try again off season.

I had to read and respond to this thread just because it has to do with Rome. I LOVED Rome! My husband and I went for our first time last year. I have to agree with Dori. We weren't taken over with Venice like so many people are. Glad to see we're not the only ones with those feelings about Venice.

We went last year at the end of April. We had great weather. We loved the food, people, art, history...everything! We are from Los Angeles so maybe we can appreciate big cities better. We landed in Rome and stayed 6 days before going to Venice. We can't wait to go back! Hopefully in 2004 we'll make it to Rome again.

Part of it may be that we didn't "over plan" our trip. Yes we read guide books (and took many of them with us), but we didn't have every minute planned out. Also, we got a personal guide for the Vatican and the Coliseum which really made them come to life for us.

KAMG
I'm sorry you were let down regarding Rome. It just did not meet your expectations. We went with the expectations of gyspy children robbing us and the dirt of a big city. Instead we experienced positive surprises on every street corner. All of the history mixed with today's world was just a marvel for us. It's the history that took us in and makes us want to go back.

My first visit to Rome was in 1969 when I was eight years old. I spent three days there with my parents, hating every second. I whined about not wanting to see any more "old bricks". Well, over thirty visits to Italy later, I long to walk around those old bricks every moment that I'm away. Rome grows on you if you are fortunate enough to be able to spend enough time there and immerse yourself in "dolce far niente"--the sweetness of doing nothing. Two years ago, my husband and I brought our two little daughters to Italy (Venice Florence and Rome). I am very happy that they were far more open minded travelers than I was on my first visit and are anxiously awaiting our return to Rome next month. Rome and only Rome for nine days-bliss.

I think Roma is the most elegant city in the world. I love the proud, arrogant nature of Romans. Roma is 2,700 years old; it stops for no one. My favorite visions of Roma are Fellini's "Nights of Cabiria," and de Sica's "The Bicycle Thief." To understand the nature of Roma, I think you should watch both of these films.

You are all re-affirming my original suspicions - that we were crazy! When we came home and people asked us about our trip I hated telling people that we had a bad time in Rome. I felt terribly guilty for it and am glad to hear all your wonderful stories/memories. I'm convinced that I DO need to go back and that I could enjoy Rome.

As I try now, I can't come up with a single favorite memory. I am realizing that perhaps it was not as bad as I had let myself believe. A few favorites were; coming up to Trevi Fountain at night - wow, much grander than I had expected, seeing the shine on Pieta, realizing my neck hurt from the Sistine chapel, seeing the maze of Taxis on strike at the Vatican...

Thanks.

Well, I will say that Rome for us was a bit of a challenge, and at least on our first visit we didn't plan as well as we should have to take full advantage of all Rome has to offer. For starters we didn't plan enough time there, and it seemed like everything we wanted to see was closed when we wanted to see it... I think it had more to do with our expectations, and lack of planning then anything else. By contrast I loved every other city I visited in Italy, Milan, Florence and Venice.. so I would be willing to give Rome another chance, only arrive more prepared, Rome is definatly not one of those "easy" cities, it's challenging and hectic, loud and lively... but not easy.. I would love to go back... the trouble is convincing my husband... *sigh..

I studied Latin in High School and ever since I wanted to see Rome.I went in the Spring and was not disappointed.I saw the Coliseum,The Roman Forum,The Pantheon,St. Peters,top class art everywhere I went-sculpture and paintings that thrilled me.To me Rome is a magic place.In my mind I travelled back through the centuries and enjoyed seeing so much of an ancient civilisation.The traffic I hardly noticed but the beauty of Rome is still in my mind and I enjoy thinking about it.

KAMG:
I for one agree with you. My wife and I have turned to blaming ourself but really Iam glad we went but I don't see a return trip in the future. My standard rely is how can anyone not appreciate the sights and art of Rome. Go, but Rome is unlike Paris or London (IMO).

I've been to Rome twice. First time in 1977 on a European tour of capital cities. Second time Jan of 1999. Love Italy but Rome is just not my city. Cant' really explain why. I love the monuments and the food but somehow just didn't warm up to the city. I got around just fine and had no problems - except my first trip when a guy followed me all over the Vatican - I finally lost him by jumping on a bus. I liked Florence better, loved Venice, next trip will be Florence/Siena and San Gim.

KAMG, I loved Rome which we saw as part of tour for 2 days and went back at end of tour for 3 days on our own. We did no public transportation which I think adds some unpleasantness to any trip. Our last 3 days we stayed at the Hotel Trevi and walked to the sites close enough to not wear us out. We stopped at some restaurants for lunch and dinner and made a day of it. Plus we didn't worry about if we happened to get lost and miss something.
I work with people that go to Myrtle Beach every year and think it is wonderful. I went once and would only go back if it was all free. Different Strokes!

KAMG:
I haven't been to Rome yet__my first trip will be this May! BUT, I could totally identify with your post.
When I was in my twenties my in-laws went to Italy and brought back a coffee -table book of Rome. It was the first time I realized the ruins were right in the middle of a modern city, and I, too, reacted very strongly. (and negatively) Since all pictures I had previously seen had excluded the modern city, I thought, like you, that ancient Rome was a seperate entity.
Now, however, I have had years to integrate this knowledge into my thinking. From an intial reaction of strong dissappointment, I am now appreciative of this juxtaposition. Rome's architecture displays a continuum of human history.
But, like you, if I had first learned this while actually there, I think I would just have felt my initial shock and dissappointment. It's a big mental leap from an image of silent, deserted ruins, to finding out that they're smack in the center of a loud, busy city.
Leslie

Not my favorite city or country. The groping, touching that I encounted does not appeal to me.

As I used to say to my kindergarten students " can't you please keep your hands to yourself".

Not only did I not find Rome to be a horror, but, after two visits there two years in a row, it has now edged out Paris as my favorite large European city.

No one *has* to love -- or even like -- Rome, but now that I've been there and have fallen in love with it, I find it interesting when people loathe it, and I'm sorry to hear that you found it to be a disappointment.

Re: "I had just expected wonderful mysterious remains of an ancient civilization and beautiful architecture, set somewhat off away from modern city life,..."

I'm curious why you expected the remains of past Roman civilizations to be set somewhat off away from modern Roman life. To me, one of the things that makes Rome so fascinating is how these remains are often integrated into modern city life. For just one example, I love the way the Pantheon looms, spectacularly, over the the beehive of activity in the Piazza della Rotonda.

We first visited Rome 2 years ago as part of a Mediterranean cruise so we only had a whirlwind one day tour that covered the Coliseum, the Forum and St. Peter's ( with even a stop for lunch ) and now we are planning to return on our own this May for a 10 day trip that will start in Rome and continue to Florence and Venice. I can't wait to go back and spend three days in Rome. Walking through the Coliseum and realizing just how ancient it was sent chills down my spine even though it is in the middle of such a busy place. There is so much more we want to see this trip like the Spanish Steps and all the fountains, the Piazza Navonna, etc.I'm getting excited just thinking about it. True, it is a large bustling city but I found it to have much more charm than any U.S. city and it is because of all that history.

Sorry you had that experience.

Personally, I found Rome incredible, more so than Florence. Vibrant city life, romantic scenes abound, great museums, parks, walks, restaurants. Wonderful little districts and fantastic ruins, especially the Pantheon, Palpatine, the Forum!

I love Rome! Just love it.

I was in Rome 2 summers ago. It was my second visit - I had also gone as part of a tour in my high school band. The first time I went was in March. Under the shelter of a tour bus and a large group - I fell in love with Rome. The weather was great, the sights were amazing and I loved wandering around, taking in the sights, smells and sounds of the city.
The second time I was in Rome - in July - it was a bad experience. It was hot, the traffic seemed life-threatening and and I was in a bad situation with 2 taxi cab drivers who tried to either take money or drive around for a long time for more fare. I still think Rome is a great city, but for me, I think I would want a more structured environment where I could wander, but still have some support for getting around, etc.
Plus, I wouldn't go back in July - too hot, too crowded and too much ROME!

In 1996 we made our first trip to Italy. We had planned, but I'm not much of a "big city" person, so didn't expect I would ever go back. Years before we had been to northern Europe and I had enjoyed the experience, but wouldn't repeat it. I found I LOVED Rome. We will be going on our 6th trip to the city in April. I don't know how you can't be captivated.

No, we had a great time in Rome a couple of years ago--in June. We didn't encounter long lines anywhere, maybe because we are early risers and went to the most popular sights in the morning. Traffic didn't bother us as we walked most places.

Maybe it helped that our hotel was out of the way a bit--in Parioli. Perhaps this let us relax at the end of the day--we just walked through the residential neighborhoods in the area each evening until we found a restaurant that looked interesting, and we were usually the only tourists (as far as we could tell).

We enjoyed Rome a lot and would go back any time.

We didn't have the same experience in Florence--hated the city with its traffic and pollution and crowds, though we enjoyed the art. And our hotel was right in the middle of the action.

I'm sure part of the reason I loved both of my visits to Rome was the fact that they were both in the spring -- one in late March and the other in mid-April -- when the weather was nearly perfect (for me.) I can't imagine ever going during one of the hot summer months.

Rome is one of the most colorful city in the world!!My little grandaughter was only seven when she came with me to Europe( since then she is my travel companion and we go there every year, she is 11 years old nowand she is looking to go to her Beloved Rome). Anyway the little girl fell in love with the city, every day was an adventure for her, she wanted to visit even the smallest churches. Her favourite place was Trevi Fountain,luckily our hotel was near by, because we stopped at the fountain 3 , 4 times a day. Before we left Rome she told me that despite that she was not born here, she felt that she was a Roman and her hearth was here. The magic ,the beauty, the charm of the city worked wonder on a little girl immagination.

kismetchimera...you have a wondrous grandchild ! The first time I visited Rome was on a month long trip to Italy...I never left..all the other places paled , I did not want to leave. Another trip I decided I must see more , so I did but I wanted Rome.

The modern and the ancient side by side and co-exsisting , the tempo , the people, Rome is the cradle of civilzation.and everyone should feel their place and their home there.

Re: "Rome is the cradle of civilzation..."

Ah...so THAT explains all the Roman babes.

This is a very interesting thread for me to read tonight, since I am leaving tomorrow on a trip that will take me to Rome for five days. Glad to see that KAMG modified the "horror" thing in the course of the responses. I am curious to see whether I love Rome or not. At least I think I know what to expect.

KAMG - We too were not fond of Rome on our first trip to Europe. In fact on that trip which also included Germany, Switzerland, Paris and London we liked everything but Italy. That was in 1984, we have since been back to Europe twice and are planning our 3rd trip. The reason I did not like Italy is many and for also for some of the reasons we find people say they do not like France. Rude people including waiters, ticket takers who try to cheat you out of money, italian tour instructors who seem less informed than Americans, terrible traffic including trying to make 4 lanes out of 3, tunnels you could get affixiated in, telling you where to park, then a scam that tows the car away. I did not even enjoy the food, I think it was too hectic.
That said, we did enjoy the Vatican and related areas. I really never wanted to go back to Italy but broke down in 1999 and went to Venice (absolutely adored it!) Of course there are no cars there!
This trip we are venturing to the Lake Como. I do think part of my problem in 1984 was that I had not done the planning for Rome or most of Italy, my cousin had. I did Paris and London. So I suspect down the road we will give it another shot but not this fall. I can honestly say in all our trips which now include Belgium, Amsterdam, Prague, Budapest, Germany, Austria and a lot of France, I have never really been disappointed in anything except for possibly a day or two because of weather. And I do believe it is due to planning and setting realistic expectations.

My first trip, I hated it. The second, I loved it. Maybe because we gave ourselves several days to acclimatize before attempting this busy city.

So many things factor into our reaction to a place. Your reaction is no less authentic than a positive one - but do give the Eternal City another chance.

I didn't find Rome a horror, but I was not expecting so much traffic careening all around me. But I like the vitality of big cities, and once I got over my initial disorientation, I enjoyed being there.

No, you're not crazy for disliking Rome and you shouldn't feel guilty for feeling that way. Travel is a subjective experience, and your impressions are just as valid as those who think Rome is fabulous.

I applaud your open-mindedness and your willingness to give Rome a second look. However, don't be surprised if you don't like it the second time around either. No matter how highly it is touted, maybe Rome just isn't your cup of tea.

Filthiest place I've ever been to...Even more disgusting than Mexico City.

The first time I went to Rome in 9/01 I was totally overwhelmed - the first day to the point of almost being in tears - having come from Lake Como and Venice. By the time we left on the 3rd day, I loved it. So much so I returned last Sept. by myself for 5 days. I am in love with Roma. BTW I live in a very small town.

I was in Rome last June and had a completely opposite reaction. I loved Rome, much more than I thought because I usually don't like cities. I thought the sites would be away from the city, and actually was very intrigued that the sites were in the middle of the city being enjoyed by all in passing. We drove into the city and parked our car for the few days. I found central Rome rather pleasant to walk around in once I learned to give an "eye" to drivers as I crossed the street. When we left,we drove eastward, and found the suburbs rather dirty. I was completely overwhelmed by the size of the Forum, expecting it to be a very small site.

Re: Zeus' comment: "Filthiest place I've ever been to...Even more disgusting than Mexico City."

Different impressions of the same place always fascinate me and, since, in two post-Jubilee year visits, I found Rome no more "filthy" than any other large European city, I'm interested that others here say they found it so "filthy" or "dirty."

I had read that Rome was cleaned up a lot in preparation for the Jublilee year (2000), so maybe that accounts for some of the differences in perception. But people probably also have widely differing definitions of what makes a city (or, for that matter, a hotel) "filthy" or "clean."

I didnt find it dirty at all. In fact, I was surprised byhow clean it was! I was also fascinated by the fact that I could come out of the subway and literally walk into the colloseum...amazing. I wish I lived ina city where I could go to work every morning and walk by the Trevi fountain...just amazing!

All the different opinions about Rome have been very interesting to me. I lived there for a year as a teenager (in 1950!). I loved it then, and it was definitely not the hectic city you all are talking about. I loved wandering around Rome, but, as a young, blond, American girl, the Italian men made me very nervous! I haven't been back, but maybe I should, although I'm afraid I'll be disappointed. I'll definitely be disappointed not to get all that attention!

I've been to Rome three times, on trips that ranged from 3 days to more than a week. It never became a favorite of mine, although I'm a devoted Italophile. I appreciate Rome, but I don't like it. I'm awed by the layers of history you can trample over just walking from one place to another; the Colosseum and Capitol Hill and all the Roman ruins are absolutely awe-inspiring, especially as they are right there! in the midst of a modern city.
But as a city, it's not attractive. There's too much chaos and dirt and mingling of centuries of architecture without any thought of how it all might look nice together. And it's noisy and the public transportation system is woefully inadequate and it does take forever to navigate the place on foot (and I'm a major-league walker!). I can't quibble about the food - Italian food is awesome anywhere in Italy, including in Rome. Oh, and the Vatican Museums - sorry, but they make me fume. All that money, all those treasures, all that wealth, packed into miles of museum, and people are still starving in the countries from which much of it came. I can only shake my head in wonder, and sadness. The Sistine Chapel is incredible, but once you've traversed the 54 rooms that precede it, you already have a bad taste in your mouth for the holdings of the Catholic Church - at least I do - and it diminishes the final BANG!
Rome is not for sissies. It's neither orderly nor easy. As I said up front, I appreciate it, but I don't like it.

As a part of many trips to Italy, we have been to Rome six times over the last 11 years, for anywhere from 2 to 6
days. Each time we find it more
amazing and wondorous.
Give it a chance, get off the beaten tourist track for a while. A great little book is "Rome Secrets"
Sorry for your bad experience, it is truly our favorite city in the world.
Goethe describes it best;

"As in Rome there is, apart from the Romans, a population of statues, so apart from this real world there is a world of illusion, almost more potent, in which most men live."
- Goethe

Rome is my least favorite place in my favorite country.

I've been to Rome only twice, once the summer ater I graduated from high school and once when I was 25, also in the summer, since I was a teacher. Since then I've been to Italy about 6 more times. I love Italy; it's my favorite country to visit, I enjoy the people, and I know and love the language. I'm tremendously interested in the things that make Rome a great attraction: the art, history, etc. Yet, while it was a wonderful experience walking in the forum, seeing the Sistine Chapel, seeing the artwork in the churches, etc., I just found Rome unpleasant and couldn't warm up to it. It is my least favorite place in the whole country. I found it frightening and tiring to walk the streets, found too many of the people (taxi drivers, desk clerk) dishonest or rude or unpleasantly aggressive, hated the way modern trash was strewn around ancient sites and Roman ruins seemed to be treated with disrespect.

Maybe I will feel differently if I visit Rome again now, as a middle aged woman in the dead of winter, instead of as a 25 year old in July. I will try again one of these days.

My first trip to Italy, Rome was at the bottom of the priority list. I thought it was just a big, crowded, polluted city - like southern California where I lived.

So, only planned 2 days in Rome in March, the week before Easter. It was busy, but not bad. I LOVED, LOVED, LOVED Roma! I was blown away by the milleniums of history, architecture and art. I loved the bustle, even though I was sick as a dog. We only took one bus, and one taxi ride, the rest of the time was walking. We walked for about 12 hours straight. I've never been so exahused....but I LOVED it and can't wait to go back for a whole week just in Rome!

Buon viaggio!

I visited Rome five years ago for a weekend from Tuscany. I didnt like it at all (although my husband did). I didnt like walking the streets at night. However...............My husband and I visited Rome a year ago - the second two weeks in August - when a lot of Italians are on holiday. I absolutely loved every minute of it and was sorry when 2 weeks were over.
We stayed in the Colonna Palace hotel, right in the centre of the historic centre and was only 5 or 10 minutes walk from all the main sites - it was a great hotel and no traffic because it faces the parliament buildings and guarded on all sides by police. However we wandered Rome at night until well after 11pm and felt safe. I think the city has been cleaned up considerably for the Jubilee in 2000. We just took our time and wandered, taking in the atmosphere - never once took a taxi (and we are middle aged)!!! We took the subway once when we went to Ostica Antica (the Roman Port) - what a place!!! I hope I will be back in Rome some day!!!

I have been to Rome twice,
both times in june/july
once with my family(10 days)
and once on my own (4 days)
this year we will be ending up our 3rd trip with 5 days in rome.
I LOVE it.
I knew I would enjoy it, but I did not expect to fall so in love with it.
I have lived in a very rural area for the past 30+ yrs, and generally dislike cities.
Rome to me is magic,
the noise, the smell, the garbage on the streets, all of that is just part of something so special I can not really articulate it.
these things are irrelevent in my mind.

I think a person will either
love Rome wildly
or dislike it intensely.

But, a person always must keep in mind,
this is a real city,
with a working population just like anywhere else in the world.
It is not a romantic Universal- MGM like theme park.
but, to each his/her own .

KAMG, I hope you did find someplace on your trip that you did love.
If not, keep looking.
Italy and eupope in general must be filled with wonderful places ,
and with luck,
you and your husband will find that special place that draws you back again and again.

Rome is very crowded in tourist season and the traffic is horrible. And although we were expecting to be irritated by these aspects, we ended up really liking the city as the monuments, fountains, food, etc. made up for the crowds and traffic.

It is hard to please everyone, and some people manage to find something to criticize not matter where they are going!!What do you expect KAMG? Regarding the Coliseum having all that traffic!!!! You means to tell me that before going to Rome you never saw a picture or some news about it !!It is hard to believe it!!!!Sorry to tell you that You sure missed the magic that is Rome.

KAMG-

Ok-here goes- Rome is not at the top of my list of Italian cities to visit--
I compared it to NYC with WORSE traffic. While I love NYC, the traffic in ROME, the gypsies and the pollution ALL got to me...along with the people on Vespas doing purse snatchings....

The good part was the hotel was terrific and in spite of all of the above , we did have a good time.....

We were not there for a long period of time ( 3 days) while we were on a whirlwind of Italy--to Rome,Venice and Florence....

That being said, we have returned to Florence 3 times and 2 times to Venice...I guess I need to await tons more stamina to "do ROME".....

IT is not for the faint of heart....

We started a three week trip in Rome. Frankly I was not crazy about it. I continue to think it might not have been the place to recover from jet lag after a 14 hour flight..that being said..I found it to be crowded,not easy to navigate and overwhelming..we ended up for a week two weeks later in Venice..now that was a city to visit. Many people love Rome..I think I might try it again but on another part of an Italy trip and not for more than two or three days.

I have been to Rome 6 or 7 times. I both liked it and hated it. I do not plan on returning. I don't get the same pleasant feelings I get as in Paris or London or anywhere in Spain (despite some similar problems in Madrid and Barcelona).

I one of those few who ADORES Rome and is so-so on Venice. I've been to Rome in October (great time for all of Italy) and in April. I love the intensity of the city.

What an interesting thread! I am going to Rome (with the 11 year old, who might hate the "old bricks" as someone said). Seems like Rome requires some getting used to. I recently returned from India, and New Delhi is crazy (dirty, beggars, pickpokets, and such). Is Rome "better"/"worse"/the same as Asian on intensity scale? please calm (or confirm) my fears!!!
Many thanks!

Tess, you are right. The best time to visit Rome is in October. Less crowded and a bit of different mood. After having visited Rome in all seasons, I can't say that it is my favorite city. I enjoy it while there, I always want to return to it, but for some strange reason I have never been regretful when leaving it. One of those things!

Then again... I have been to Venice in Spring, Summer and Winter. My favorite has always been winter. Rainy, miserable days but the city is fascinatingly gloomy. It is just a matter of personal taste.

Interesting comments, StCirq. Although I happen to love Rome, I like the way you put it, "I appreciate Rome, but I don't like it." and I got a real kick out of your comment "Rome is not for sissies."

While I can understand what I think you mean by Rome is not an "attractive" city, attractiveness is, of course, in the eye of the beekeeper...er, I mean beeholder. One of the things that makes Rome very attractive to me is its wonderful urban planning, especially the streets, and corresponding vistas, laid out by (as I recall) Pope Sixtus. (In fact the University of Washington School or Architecture and Urban Planning has a program where students study in Rome for a few months, for precisely this reason, because there's a lot to be learned from Rome.) One of my favorite parts of Rome is the "trident", the three streets that radiate southward from the Piazza del Popolo, with the Via del Corso in the center being flanked by those two almost-twin churches.

My primary aesthetic complaint with Rome has to do with the Tiber. Although there are some sections where plane trees gorgeously hang over the embankment walls, making for a wonderful stroll (and great photos), Rome has -- unlike Paris -- essentially turned its back on its river, although I seem to recall reading something recently to the effect that Rome is going to try to change this in the near future.

In 1997 we spent our first 3 days (of a 27 day trip) in Rome. We arrvied at 6:30pm and we able to witness the crazy traffic...making 6 lanes out of 4. We were scared to even cross the street, but we learned quickly. Our intro was that the cab driver charged us double the fare, and took us to the wrong hotel. Once we got our "Rome legs", we loved it. We had a woman who owned a pizzera chase us down the street to return our bag with money, camera etc in it. My philosophy is "don't try to do Rome, let Rome do you". You really need to go with the flow and remain flexuble. We are returning to Italy in June and will stay there 4 days. But, we all like different things, thank goodness. I wouldn't feel bad for not enjoying it!

Although I didn't like the "old bricks" when I was eight, my seven and four year olds loved them from the first moment. So Rome doesn't always take getting used to. For some, like my husband and daughters and so many more, it's love at first sight. For your eleven year old I recommend getting the Fodor's book "Around Rome with Kids". It provides many ideas on things to see and do in Rome that are interesting for kids. As for Asia, the large cities I have visited (Hong Kong and Singapore)are much more intense than Rome.

Grinisa,
Thanks for reply. Does anyone know whether we should expect huge crowds in Rome at the end of March? When booking this vacation I was hoping that we'd be able to avoid them but you never know...
Feedback is appreciated!

I don't think you will have too many problems with crowds at the end of March. Many spring breaks are already over then and many others don't begin until Easter. Many people will be going to Rome for a pilgrimage at Easter time so won't be traveling at the end of March.

Count me in as another one who just doesn't 'get' Rome! I absolutely loved, cherished & adored everywhere else I visited in my favourite country (Florence, San Gimiagno, lake Como, Venice (which I had anticipated not enjoying!), Verona, Assisi & Sorrento) but Rome just left me strangely cold. I guess its not quite as 'user-friendly' as my favouite big cities (NYC & Paris) & to me it just didn't invoke the same joy when wandering around exploring the streets, galleries, shops, parks etc.
I will go back one day to see if there was just something I missed last time...

When we were planning our trip to Italy I was up for passing on Rome and heading to the North. The last two vacations in large cities proved to me more of hassel than they were worth. But I was convinced we needed to go. I then hated to leave. It is beautiful city that needs to be experianced. Get of the tourist path, find the local and enjoy.

I find the title of this thread to be very distasteful. Since many Italians and residents of Rome visit here, it would have been more tasteful to ask if others found Rome different than they pictured etc. Also, you claim to have done research but exected the Coliseum to be set "somewhat off away from modern city life". Where did you do this research? Please post so the rest of us don't do our research there. Your insensitivity is inexcusable, typical of our tourists who go over there seeing Europe as a giant disneyland.
Let's see I'm guessing a house in a subdivision with lots of trips to the Olive Garden.

I think you romanticized just a bit by thinking regular life would just pass Rome by!

I truly loved it and the biggest surprise that I got was seeing the palm trees as we entered the city. I guess I just never realized how tropical it is! We went in the middle of June at the height of the tourist season. I loved that too. Hot weather, good wine, tiny sandwiches, olives and friendly people.

What is not to love!?

Along with Capo, I agree that Rome has completely neglected to take advantage of its situation as a city on a river. I have never seen a major European city so completely ignore its river focus. It's really amazing, as Europe has for so long been known for its river culture. Yet Rome has completely neglected the Tiber. It's actually an ugly experience to cross over it, as the banks are muddy and dirty and unkempt. Whereas, in most European cities with a large river, there would be embankments and cafes and life along the river. This and the really mediocre public transport system and the traffic and the noise and the dirt make Rome a challenge to visitors. I'll go back, I'm sure, because Rome always has something new to show off (like the Pantheon, which in three visits has always been closed for me), and it's an undisputed European capital, but I still say it's not an easy place to love.
Oh, and the recent appearance of those Gladiators all decked out at the Colloseum waiting to have their pictures taken - sorry, but that kind of made me sick, like the "maids" in Alsatian dress at the fountains in the villages along the wine routes in Alsace. We all know that most people appear in Europe without a terribly deep appreciation of the history of the place they're visiting, and that's a kind of sad fact in and of itself, but to play upon that and assume that all that the visitor wants is a Disney-type photo or moment is really grotesque and insulting - to Americans in particular.

Sadly though, I bet Americans and Japanese are lined up 10 deep to get their pictures taken with the gladiators.

Rome is my favorite city in the world, and I hadn't expected to like it, much less fall in love with it. I wonder if our feelings about a place, good or bad, sometimes just turn on something small that sets us off one way or the other.

When my sister and I arrived in Rome, after checking into our hotel, we took our guidebooks to a nearby sidewalk cafe to plan our agenda, and the charming waiter deposited our capucinos in front of us with a flourish, the top of the drink decorated with a heart-shaped sprinkling of chocolate bits. We howled and were pushovers for whatever else Rome might offer.

Setting off on foot in the direction of the coloseum, about a mile away, I looked down at a manhole cover and saw etched in it "SPQR" - the "Senate and the People of Rome," and I remembered all those images I'd seen of Roman soldiers under that banner. I was awe struck and remained that way until I left the city, reluctantly.

No!

US

As many of the above posts reflect, it depends on your expectations and frame of reference.

We met my husband's parents there 2 years ago as part of a 2 week vacation in Italy. It was in October, so not in the height of the tourist season.

We live in Shanghai, the world's 5th largest city with 20 million people.

His parents live in Portland, Oregon, population around 1 million (I think).

They got ahead of us one block, and my husband and I turned to each other and said: "This is just great - it's so nice to be able to walk down the street hand in hand instead of single file, so few people around you can really relax, the traffic's not too bad, etc."

We caught up with his parents at the corner, and they said: "You know, we were just saying that Rome is great, but there are just TOO many people and traffic and it's not relaxing!"

I travel a lot. Rome and New York are my favorite cities.

StCirq, I can't recall where I read this but, before heading to Rome for my first trip, I'd read that the Tiber used to flood Rome all the time and that when Rome finally got around to building the embankments to prevent flooding (apparently taking their cue from the embankments the Parisians built on the Seine), it "turned its back on the Tiber", as the writer put it. If that's the case, it would help to explain Rome's lack of focus on the Tiber and would almost seem to be more out of a sense of "spite" than neglect.

The thing that really strikes me about the Tiber is not only that there's not a lot of cafes, etc. along the river, but that the river itself -- especially compared to the Seine -- is almost lifeless. In two visits to Rome, I think I've seen one kayaker and one barge on the Tiber.

What I like about the Tiber are some of the bridges across it (although, once again, comparing it to the Seine, there's no bridge as wonderful as the Pont des Arts footbridge); the plane trees which hang gorgeously their branches over the embankments in some places; and Tiber Island. On my trip last spring, my girlfriend and I spent a lovely sunny afternoon just playing on Tiber Island before heading over to Trastevere. Besides, one of the Tiber Island bridges has a small, and very worn, statue called "Quattro Capi"...how can I not love that?

Sorry to hear you've never had the opportunity to see the inside of the Pantheon. Hope you visit Rome again and are able to see it then.

My boyfriend and I were in Rome for 4 days this last December, and we really enjoyed it. It is intense, but we were very centrally located (around the corner from the Pantheon), it wasn't crowded at all, and the weather was mild and pleasant. There were times that it felt like we had the city and sites to ourselves.
We found so many amazing things to see, and it seems there is always a new surprise around every corner. I tried to really spread things out in our schedule and leave lots of time for wandering, and I think that helped. We didn't do much with public transportation, because we enjoy walking and are used to long daily walks. Personally, I found Rome to be much more "walkable" than I had expected. We also took the occasional taxi...which I thought was a blast considering that traffic.
I know it wasn't love at first sight for me with Rome, like with some other places I've been...but every day we were there it grew on me. Rome is such a wondrous city, with the old and new intertwined. Can't wait to go back!!
KAMG - try it again in the low season. You might have a little more rain (or maybe not, we didn't), but I think it will make a big difference, not having to fight with big crowds everywhere.

We were in Rome 20 years ago and did not really enjoy it. Since we stayed just on the other side of the train station we found we were always going to sights and never got a good feel for it.

This past May we decided to stay for a few days (the real focus was Sorrento area) not expecting to like it.

We stayed near the Fountain of Trevi and the Pantheon. We really enjoyed the visit and would definitely spend a few days there again. By staying in the middle of things we found that walking Rome appeared easier. It felt as though Rome had gotten smaller.

We spend most of our time is spent outdoors walking around seeing the sights. We don't spend much time in museums (Vatican was the only one). Maybe that's why we definitely didn't find it too intense.

Had a great time.

Like I said before, I found Rome to be the dirtiest city in Europe. What really bummed me out was all the grafitti - as bad as NYC or Chicago. I used to think the Europeans were above that. I still found the city extremely interesting, but it's not in my Top Ten places I want to return to. That being said, I can't wait to return to see the countryside of Italy again - THAT exceeded my expectations.

Quote: "the recent appearance of those Gladiators.... all decked out at the Colloseum waiting to have their pictures taken - ...kind of made me sick, like the "maids" in Alsatian dress at the fountains in the villages along the wine routes in Alsace. We all know that most people appear in Europe without a terribly deep appreciation of the history of the place they're visiting, and that's a kind of sad fact in and of itself, but to play upon that and assume that all that the visitor wants is a Disney-type photo or moment is really grotesque and insulting - to Americans in particular."

St. Cirq, surely the entertainment provided by the original gladiators was what really qualified as grotesque!! Were the audiences who went to see people fight each other, sometimes to the death, more sophisticated than those who merely want a "Disney-style moment"?

Come, let us rejoice that the modern day gladiators have beaten their swords into ploughshares, or should that be cameras..... : - ) And not take Europe seriously ALL the time....

I have read through this thread with interest. I was going to reply until I came to St. Cirq's first posting. St. Cirq, you summed up my feelings exactly and more eloquently, especially about the Vatican, which simultaneously repels and fascinates me.

KAMG, I don't think you should feel guilty about your opinion. The mark of an a traveler is the ability to discern. I have been to Rome many times, and I continue ambivalent and conflicting opinions about it.

As St. Cirq said, it's not for sissies.

I just had a flashback from 1979. I remember that street in front of the coliseum. Everybody wanted to run me over!

Last year I went to Dublin thinking its a quint wee town. Holy cow. Those people must get bonus points for running over people!

I loved Rome & never felt like it was a let down. In fact, I felt it was a bit Americanized, compared to Sicily & the Amalfi Coast. The only let down for me was that most people spoke english, the prices went way up & were comparable to the US, & the people were not as friendly as in Southern Italy. Other than that, I found Rome absolutely beautiful (including all the tourist places)& I want to go back to see the things i missed.

I was in Rome many years ago, so probably can not compare it to today, but I absoultly fell in love with it. We did spend 10 days there and took a few day trips. I would love to go back and some day I will, but in the meantime there are so many places that I have not been to yet. But to each their own. I don't care for Paris although I've been there several times.
Rome is one of my favorite cities in Europe, but it is large and noisy.

LOVE ROME.
EVERY YEAR I INCLUDE IT IN MY TRAVEL AT LEAST FOR 2 DAYS(AND I ALWAYS GO TO EUROPE IN SUMMER)

Roma is the capital of Italy, and as a capital city, it should be expected to be a large, bustling metropolis. I know, you would like to think that the ancient ruins have been left in an idyllic tranquil state, but that is not the case and the city has just about swallowed them all up. But despite the hustle and bustle, traffice, scooters, and noise, I really enjoyed Roma ( as do many others). Each city has a different feel and the same measure can't be used for all of them (Firenze is remarkably different and far more "intimate" in feel) but that is what makes each place unique. Perhaps you could return during the Spring or Fall when the crowds aren't there in droves. You might have a better experience then.

SantaChiara, I share your feelings, and those of StCirq, about the Vatican. It repels and fascinates me too and, while visiting it, I found myself wondering what Jesus would think about the vast riches in the Vatican.

Also, as I recall reading, the cost of building st. Peter's -- as gorgeous and impressive at it is -- was at least partly responsible for sparking the Reformation.

As a former Catholic school girl, I am probably the least likely person on this board to defend the Vatican, but I'm going to leap in. Much of the artwork in the Vatican was actually in private homes or gardens. Sometimes (not always) the Vatican acquired privately-owned artwork by means that were less than moral & ethical. Having said that, the collection now owned by the Vatican actually offers greater access to the public to see works of art that would otherwise be privately-owned masterpieces. I have some friends who are affluent and have exquisite taste in art, but none of them own anything done by Michaelangelo or Raphael or Bottacelli.

BC

We just came back yesterday from an 8 day trip to Rome, Florence and Venice.
I loved every minute of it. In Rome my concern was the pickpocketing everyone mentions, and walking everywhere. We loved it, we had our 2 year old daugther with us and we walked and pushed the stroller and manage the traffic, to make a story short we survived Rome and all the beautifull things it has to offer, if you look pass the traffic and the crossing of the streets you will love it too. My only dissapointment: couldn't the tall dark and handsome boys everyone talks about... but that's another story....

I was right about what I had recalled reading, about the building of St. Peter's being at least partly -- or indirectly -- responsible for sparking the Reformation.

The website below, "St. Peter's Basilica", says: "[Donato] Bramante's work was so expensive that he continually asked the cardinals for money. The cardinals, in turn, sold indulgences, which eventually led to the Protestant Reformation, and a boatload of religious dissidents who settled America."

http://www.letsgo.com/ROMA/04-Sights-344

Our trip to Italy (Rome, Positano & Naples) last summer was my very first taste of Europe. Maybe because I'm a native newyorker I didn't really mind all the traffic and hustle bustle, but I absolutely adore Rome and I can't wait to go back. I loved how the old and new came together to create such a marvelous city. A coworker that was there 6 mos. before I was told me it was ugly, dirty and full of pick-pocketers. Sure the streets weren't presteen, but I think that adds to the charm of the place; also everyone we encountered was very friendly (even the 80 yr. old man who sold us their incredible fruit each morning and put up with my bad italian). Rome isn't a shrine, and we need to love it for what it is not for what we want it to be.

Re: "and we need to love it for what it is not for what we want it to be."

Great line, Ceylon! As true for people as it is for cities.

Rome---- sigh.
After living in Europe for the past three years and doing intense travelling, I can say in all honesty that Rome was my favorite. It's not so much the sights, but the entire Rome experience. The best parts were strolling down the sidewalk with the sun on your back, eating a gelato, just having seen something fascinating.

I went towards the end of October, and it was perfect in every way. 70 degrees and not too hot.

Some feel they have not truly lived until they have seen Rome, and I for one totally agree.

The only horror I experienced anywhere near Rome was driving on the GRA (Grande Raccordo Autostrada) at rush hour in the morning. I was returning to Rome with a rental car from 4 nights in Tuscany. Drove into Rome on the A1 and turned onto the GRA with plans to take it all the way around Rome to the airport. Mind you I had the car for four full days driving all over Tuscany, including Pisa, Florence, Siena, Assisi, etc. Nothing anybody could tell me could prepare me for the nightmare that is the GRA. It is like a 100,000 car parking lot emptying out all at the same time into a single exit. I made it all the way to Fiumicino with out a scratch!

My wife and I actually cried at the airport not wanting our trip to end, especially the 5 glorious, problem-free days we spent in Rome.

I completely loved Rome (and the rest of Italy I saw). Rome is intense but I don't think it seemed as intense to us because we spent the first part of our trip in Naples. We loved Naples and Rome was actually a calmer atmosphere compared to Naples.

I did feel Rome was a harder city to orient myself to as far as directions and getting around but once we conquered that we loved it.

Maybe give it another try now that you know what to expect. You will probably love it and if not, the rest of Italy awaits just a short train ride away.

My wife and I were also in Rome the last week of June. We loved it. we arrived at the Termini and found out that the cabs were on strike that day. We took subway to our area and walked around til we found our place. Not much of a hassle. We walked all over the city. Felt safe as could be. Went to St. Peter's on June 29th for an outdoor Papal Mass in honor of St Peter. We enjoyed every minute of our stay in Rome.

Dear KAMG,
We went to Italy for our 20th anniversary last May. We spent two days in Rome on our arrival and two days before our departure. Thanks to this site, I did extensive planning about where to stay and what to see, etc...I don't think we had too high expectations of Rome. As someone put it, we tried to take her on her own terms. It turned out that we loved Rome. The noise, the smell, the LIFE, the food. We went to restaurants recommended to us by the concierges of our hotels(Hotel Due Torre, and Del Senato)and were not disappointed. I don't know if May is very crowded. There were crowds, of course, it's a big city, but we were prepared for bigger ones. There's a certain feel to Rome that appealed to us. We live in a fairly small town, but have lived in Philadelphia and Honolulu, so the traffic and crowds didn't daunt me the way I thought they would. I hope you have an opportunity to see Rome again.
We were glad to go back for the two days and wished we had more time. Maybe one day, but I hope I don't have to wait for another 20 years!

Okay, well what are people expecting exactly? Rome is a modern city just like Paris or London. When you go to a city like that ESPECIALLY during tourist season then that's what you get. Go during the off-season and you'll probably run into slightly smaller crowds and perhaps it will be less overwhelming.

I guess I have been very surprised by the reaction that people have had to Rome. It is my favorite city in the world, and it is my favorite for many of the reasons that people have listed as why they hate it.

I love its extremes. I love the fact that it is a modern city yet it does not ignore its past by compartmentalizing it and putting all its treasures in museums. I love the fact that the Colosseum and the Forum are not removed from the city, they are part of it. It is a city that lives in its past and its future at the same time.

I love the intense energy of the place. It feels like real people live there, unlike Florence which strikes me as a museum.

I find that I don't like places when I feel rushed. And if I spend enough time in a place, my perception can change considerably as the days go on. We spent a week in Rome - and that much too little. I can't imagine spending 1, 2 or 3 days in Rome. It would have felt quite overwhelming and I probably would have left with a negative impression.

Many, many years ago, when I was young (and that was a long time ago!),I spent several months in Rome as a student.

It was crowded, noisy, the traffic was horrendous, etc. etc. But...
living there I learnt that Rome is a big city with places that I loved and places that I disliked and even places which left me totally indifferent.

I would visit one church a day, big or little, and some of the tiny chapels are among my fondest memories of Rome. They were so quiet, so calming, and so much of what Catholicism is to the average Roman. The grandeur and lavishness of the Vatican seemed like a totally different city (which it is!).

I rode the metro and loved it, rode the buses and was indifferent to the bouncing around, but the buses were convenient.

I loved the lobby of the central library where all the books were, at that time, cataloged on cards so yellow with age that the words on some of the cards had faded away. I disliked having to hand my selection of books to a man behind a teller window and then having to wait sometimes up to two hours for him to return with my selections. By then the library was ready to close - for the afternoon siesta! But, if there was time, I would carry my treasury of books to the huge reading room and just pretend to read - my eyes were fixed mostly on the gorgeous room itself and on the other inhabitants. The books could not be taken out of the library, they were to be read in the library and then returned - I loved the respect that the Italians showed their books, the same respect as for the monumental amount of art and architecture which surrounded us.

I would spend the afternoon siesta time at a nearby cafe and read or write or just watch life go by. The waiters never drove me away or were rude to me.

THEN

Easter came and the entire city changed. Hordes of tourists appeared. Strikes started (do the Italians know how to time things or what?). The leisurely pace disappeared like icebergs meeting heat. The traffic, the noise, the dust, all increased exponentially. Garbage piled up. The metro workers went on strike, so the metro stopped running. The bus drivers went on strike, so the buses stopped running. My friendly waiters seemed so harassed and no longer smiled as they dashed around the tables.

The summer tourist season had arrived.

As my friend who lives in Paris recently wrote to me in June: "The tourists have arrived - sigh!" She didn't need to say anything more.

Morale of this story: go to Rome or Paris or London or Budapest during the off season. Particularly Rome, when the weather will be kinder.

Hated it. Dirty and crowded and I walked my legs off (agree with whoever criticized the Metro). And I live in NYC. But I didn't when I visited, so maybe that was a problem. I want to go back to Rome when a) I have more money (we stayed near the train station and were dirt poor -- no taxis, no good restaurants, no shopping) b) I can go with my husband (went with some college friends who dragged me to Planet Hollywood) and c) I'm not at the end of an exhausting trip (a week in Italy, we had already done Venice and Florence)

dawnRainbows expressed it wonderfully!It is a living breathing city!It is not Disney!

Our first trip to Italy was for 3 weeks ..the plan was Rome for a few days then off to somewhere else...we never made it . The city captivated us. Have been back many times and have ventured further but Rome keeps calling us back. The pace of the city..while fast at some times allows quiet moments

I need a Rome fix!

Rome can be a let-down because it is a huge city. I remember the first time I experienced it years ago and it was not at all like I had imagined it to be. But I have come to love it for its nuances, pockets of charm, out of way places, etc. In addition, there are a lot of wonderful day trips to take in and around Rome that make it a great place to stay. I will be there next month - can't wait!

I wasnt horrified. I am going again in 2 months. I cant wait to go to the Trevi at night.

This is a really interesting thread to read through. I am, however, amazed that some despise such a city. So many comments were made that the sites were so close to major roadways (i.e., coliseum, etc.). What I wonder, is did you expect the Italians to move these historical sites outside the city into one nice neat place, like Epcot Center where you can walk and walk without traffic or dirt? Americans are so used to the little history that we have being protected or set back away from cities that they don't realize that these other cities (outside the US) have been building these cities for centuries and centuries. I believe they did not have planning commissions on what would best suit tourists at the time.

I agree with one post that said that everyone's tastes and expectations are different. For some travelers, a limited service hotel is just like a five star and for others, they will find something to complain about at a five star hotel.

If you want to have a nice time on a vacation, you will make it that way.

Best hotel with view of the Vatican and city is the Rome Cavalieri Hilton. Highly recommend it for views, service, rooms, etc. They have free shuttle service to the center of town on the half hour in a new air conditioned mini bus.

Love this thread--it's a discussion not a discourse.

KAMG, Rome was to us the best example of expections=success or lack thereof.

It was our second city experience in Italy. Our first was a week in Florence, which was indeed shocking to us as people who tended to spend that very same week in Paris. We were so overwhelmed by the noise in Florence (yes, the quiet city)that it took until the end of the week for us to become accustomed to it.

Does this mean we didn't like/love Florence. No, not at all. It just took us a looonnng time to grasp it. Perhaps it was our expectations.

Speaking of expectations, we had
heard over and over again that Rome was worse.

Well, we steeled ourselve for aural onslaught, and to us (probably because of our pre-trip anxiety psyche), Rome was quieter. We had a hotel by the Pantheon, we kept our windows open, and we slept. Somehow, I heard the bells of the churches and not the motorcycles this time.

Again, we are persons who walk the streets of Paris and weep because we have to leave in two days. Well, my youngest was 10 and we walked the streets of Rome one hour before leaving before our flight and just sobbed.

I think your post KAMG has wonderful validity. Travel is about experience. If every city were the same to every person, why try anything new! It would then be, "Haven't been there, but why do that."

I loved Rome....liked Florence better!!
The sights, the food, the place and even people-watching was fantastic.

And, now that we are on the subject, found Paris disappointing... high expectations, perhaps. I found the South of France esp. Provence much more enjoyable.

Cheers

After 14 days in Italy, we spent 4 days in Rome. I was shocked at how much I loved it. To me it had everything that all of the other towns we visited had. I do believe the location of your hotel is critical. I would rather have a plainer hotel in the big middle of things rather than a nicer place, farther away. Do give Rome another chance. I was not crazy about Venice until our last day there. We roamed away from the tourist areas, and I found the Venice so many people talk about. I will definitely give it another chance.

Diane

KAMG:
Could you tell me more about Hotel Oxford? My husband and I were thinking of booking rooms there, based on one friends recommendation. How far is it from the major sites? What were the rooms like and how was the service? Please advise..

KAMG, I guess you and I, along with a few others form the small minority that did not particularly like Rome.

Let me hasten to add that I love Roman history and civilization--I even took Latin for 3 years in high school and had a minor in Latin in college. However, I did not like the agressive panhandlers and dishonest waiters and cabbies he had to deal with.

Of all the Italian cities we saw, Rome was our least favorite. I loved Bologna, Florence and what little I saw, Sorrento.

I like to think that I am open to all sorts of experiences, having travelled and lived in different parts of the U.S., travelled to Canada, and England before going to Italy. My response to Rome was, more so what than Florence. At least downtown Florence and BLQ were cute, but Rome is just a big city with the Vatican, St. Peter's and a few cute sections around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, and a bunch of rocks around the Forum.

Lil

lilley--you just can't predict how a place will strike you. I don't like Florence at all, and I love Rome. I guess it's a matter of each individual's background, life experience, and personality coupled with the particular things that happen in a particular place when they happen to be there.

Agree with Rufus. Different strokes for different folks so to speak. But I must say the word "cute" never came to mind to describe any part of Rome. And "lots of rocks" to describe the Roman Forum?

I remember being horrified by a comment a fellow passenger made on a Mexican cruise we took years ago. She asked which place we visited when in port. I replied we had gone to Tulum. She looked rather disapproving and said she had chosen Cancun, because after all Tulum was just a pile of rocks. I suppose I had the same reaction to Lilley's comment.

I am one of those who just did love Rome. Italy overall I adored. Rome.... I don't think I have to go back.

My biggest disappointment was the Vatican Museum. I felt like I was CRUSHED with the masses. There was no way to step back and look at the art and the prattle of hundreds of tour guides was a bit much! I loved the Sistene Ceiling, but everything was just a blur. I then went to Florence and saw how the MUCH smaller Uffizi handles the crowds. My verdict was that the Vatican is more into getting my money then ensuring a pleasant exprience.

I would go back, but... I don't have to go back.

I did find the bus system easy to use. I used the subway until a particularlly difficult ride with a man who wanted me to know just how much he liked me. (Details are not suitable for public print LOL!)

I am glad this thread was resurrected, my first trip to Italy (Rome, Florence, and Venice) in June (with my husband) is approaching (fast, but not fast enough!). While I certainly know and knew that everyone has a different reaction to each travel destination, this thread has emphasized the visceral reactions that people can have. Yes, I knew that Rome is a modern, living, breathing city that also happens to have truly ancient structures and sites, etc., but getting so many people's impressions has painted a vivid picture for me, in a way that so many guidebooks have not and really cannot. Thank you, all!

Looking forward to getting my own impression, as well as my husband's, and comparing those with those I've read here.

Attention 2058...
My husband and I stayed at the Hotel Oxford in March of 2002. It is a charming small hotel in more of a residentiall area away from the hustle and bustle found around the tourist sites. It has a cozy bar area and a small restaurant with a fixed price menu where we enjoyed two dinners after busy days of sightseeing. It is air conditioned and has satellite tv and internet and fax service. The facility had been recently remodeled, it was clean and nicely decorated. We found the staff to be friendly and very helpful in answering our questions. There are metro stations about eight blocks distance near the Museo Nationale and the Palace Barberini Galleria Nationale. We found that we could walk down the Via XX Settembre safely late at night as there are govenment buildings along this avenue with small block houses and armed guards providing our own private security force so to speak as we returned from the historic area.

Giovanna, I described the Roman Forum as "just a pile of rocks" because that's how it struck me, considering how the Italian (or Roman) government kind of left everything as they were. I remember seeing a painting of the Roman Forum in the 17th or 18th century, with cattle grazing amidst the ruins. I got an impression that the Roman Forum was treated like an open air park, unlike the Imperial Forum, where you have to pay to go in to see.

In contrast, I didn't get that feeling from Pompeii, but that might be because it's an archaeological site.

Lil

I wouldn't describe it as a horror by any means, but we both decided we liked Paris better than Rome. Rome seemed noisier to us. It seemed more crowded and dirtier. We ran into more (sorry) urine and doggy do than I've ever seen anyplace.

The churches in Rome are beautiful to some tastes but they didn't appeal to us. We love the light airy gothic churches with the gorgeous stained glass that we are used to in Paris.

We missed the Impressionist art although we were impressed (no pun intended) by much of the art we saw in Rome.

Major disappointment to me was the Roman "piazzas." I was expecting green areas and trees to go with the fountains. I was horrified to discover many of the piazzas were basically parking lots during the day . . . with a lovely fountain at one or both ends. It never occurred to me that a piazza would be paved and not have greenery AND be a parking lot.

The food was all right. Certainly the pasta was excellent. It seemed more expensive than Paris and there didn't seem to be the choice we've come to expect.

On the bright side, we found ourselves wandering into some churches not on the beaten tourist track and thinking them lovely. We took a day trip out the Appian Way and were enchanted. One has to be thrilled by the Roman ruins, and the people were very friendly, although certainly no more friendly than in Paris.

We will go back, I'm sure, but I suspect we'll always prefer Paris. We like the architecture and art better in Paris, but had to admit Rome was more compact and we walked every place. We planned to take public transportation but didn't find it necessary. Rome is a great walking city . . . but I'd rather walk in Paris.

To each his own. We're all different and we all like different things. I know many here prefer Rome and I appreciate that and can even see why, but it really wasn't my cup of tea.

Hi!

I'm so sorry you had a bad experience in Rome. I had the exact opposite experience. We just got back from a trip to Vienna, Munich, Florence and Rome and I honestly was expecting the least from Rome. I was happily shocked to find that I liked Rome the best! My husband and I love visiting ancient sites, and for that you can't beat Rome. I liked Rome so much more than Florence, which I thought was cramped and conjested. Maybe its because I visited Rome during off-peak season, but I thought the city was charming and we are already planning a trip back!

I went to Rome last May - end of May actually and it was perfect in terms of crowds and weather. We had only 3 days and walked so much everywhere that I was exhausted but Rome holds a special place for all the reasons mentioned in the other posts - esp the old next to the new, the night life....the history. I've always been fascinated with roman history and to see some of the monuments and imagine life as it must have been is thrilling. Also having watched a Roman Holiday and then actually going to Rome stirred something in me again....3 days was too less. My parents are going in a month for only 2.5 days and I hope they manage to like it!!!!

I find this question very interesting because I think this type of thing really depends on the person and what they like and dislike.

We almost didn't go to Rome during our trip a year ago because my husband had been there (25 years ago) and didn't like it at all. I told him we HAD to go because I had to see Rome whether he thought I was going to like it or not.

Well, turns out my husband must have been in a bad mood way back when (or, his hair was a little too long then ) because this time, he and I both loved it and can't wait to go back.

We didn't think Rome was hectic at all. Busy yes, hectic no. But, you must consider that we vacation often in southeast Asia, Hong Kong, Bangkok, etc. which are very loud and colorful places where life is moving at a crazy clip. So to us, Rome didn't have a frenetic feel.

This is certainly one of those very individual preferences to which there is not one right answer. There is only the right answer for YOU.

No. I LOVE Rome.

I found Rome to be wonderful the first time, and the second time and the third time ..... .

I think JeanneB may be looking for a discussion like this with the very different subjective reactions people have to Rome.

Kathy. one of my favorite quote is:
"To every Bird his nest is beautiful."
You know what it is!
Everyone should find the city, village that gives them pleasure or stimulation or peace. What is great for you is true but not for another. So we must find our own way and that is really what travel is.

I'm sorry you didn't like Rome, but you know what they say about one man's trash being another man's treasure. We all have our favorites, and Rome just wasn't one of yours. There's nothing wrong in that, though I do know how disappointing it is to go somewhere that you expect to like, and it doesn't measure up. Especially when everyone else loves it.

I happen to have loved Rome, but was of a neutral feeling about Sorrento (equal good/bad there for me) and I downright disliked Orvieto. So there you go. You're not the only one to go against the flow opinion-wise!

"At least downtown Florence and BLQ were cute, but Rome is just a big city with the Vatican, St. Peter's and a few cute sections around Piazza Navona and the Pantheon, and a bunch of rocks around the Forum."

What a humorous posting. May I suggest the Venetian Hotel in Las Vegas for your next trip? It is clean and the "gondolieri" are cute and well behaved.

The only "problem" with Rome is the crush of tourists. Other than that, it is a magnificent city, BUT, not a place for "sissies" as someone said.

This thread intrigues me because, I love France and other posters will say avoid, Gordes, Les Baux, Roussillon. Shoot, they are beautiful places not to be missed, and we are all tourists. So never let any place in Italy be not overlooked,, never regret where you were, and had the chance to see.

"Never regret where you are". I agree. Looking back on places after the event, there are some I feel less enthusiastic about than others. But I never failed to enjoy a place when i was there.

However, having said that, our preconceptions can mislead us. I can relate to KAMG's sentiments because a similar thing happened on my first trip to Paris. We had only a day there, and we trained in from Chartres. Crammed a lot into the day, but was disappointed at the general look and mood of the place. Not the chic, romantic city we had expected.

On two subsequent visits we had 4 days there one time and 3 days the next. We had time to relax in the Latin Quater, explore less touristy bits and even some outlying bits around the edges. Now I can't get enough of the place. I'd go back again any time. I guess there's a message in there somewhere.

I absolutely love Rome. Although, it was hard to absorb my first day there being jet-lagged. I will be returning there for six weeks in early 2005. Venice, I could take or leave.

I was just reading this trip report and it sounds like a lot of the somewhat disappointed travelers here:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/justinlocke/rome.htm

I'm glad to read all of these reports, because it sets more realistic expectations for my upcoming trip to Rome.

WillTravel, try not to get too discouraged about your upcoming trip! To each their own I guess...I absolutely loved Rome! We were there in March and are already going back in December. I found the city to be fascinating. On the other hand, I didn't really care for Florence, which seems to be a favorite of most Italian visitors. To me, Florence felt much more congested than Rome.

I'm not sure when the person who wrote that trip report went to Rome, but it shouldn't be as crowded if you are going soon. Crowds can certainly put a damper on things. I think the reason we may have liked it so much was because there were very few tourists there in early March so it wasn't too crowded at all. I have a feeling that I may have felt a bit different about Rome had we visited it in July or August instead.

I hope you have a wonderful trip, and I hope you write a trip report when you return!

Tracy

Sorry, that was supposed to be "most Italy visitors".

Tracy, thanks for the encouragement. I'll be there January 4-9. Based on hotel sites, it is high season from Christmas to January 6, so maybe I'll see both high and low seasons on my trip.

I too would urge you not to allow the reactions of others to influence your experience of Rome.

I do not deny that there are two very different schools of thought: those who love Florence and those who love Rome. (There may be a few who love both, but they will not love them equally.)

Personally, I belong to the "school of Rome." Rome is vital, vibrant, full of things to do and see. Florence is also full of things to do and see, but I find it more congested, more provincial and -- except for the Renaissance art, if you are "madly, truly, deeply" in love with it -- more boring.

This is an interesting post based on similar reactions I had the first time I went to Rome, but I do hope that you are able to take a second trip there. My second trip in Rome, I fell in love with it, after being pretty disappointed the first time.

WillTravel, be open to the idea that Rome is a big city, that it is going to have traffic and crowds and is going to already be "discovered." But there are so many ways to get off-the-beaten-path in Rome, and in January it was. at least for me, a warm spot in the middle of a chilly country.

Rome brings on all sorts of different reactions--hatred of the big city, the crowds, the noise, but at the same time a love of those little alleyways near the Pantheon, the neighborhood vibe of Trastevere, Campo dei Fiori in the early evening. Just walking along the Angel Bridge at night, with St. Peter's cupola in the distance all lit up is breathtaking.

Consider reading this book: H.V. Morton's A Traveler in Rome.

Definitely go back, KAMG. It will surprise you the second time--you will notice that there are small streets steering you away from the Colosseum up to a panoramic lookout of the whole city. You'll discover Trastevere, you'll learn a little bit more about the history every time. It's a layer upon layer city. The fact that there is a modern six lane traffic circle winding around that ancient colosseum is part of Rome's beauty. Where else has time continued with such a fervor?

Eloise: Your comments about Florence vs. Rome are interesting. I actually fell in love first with Florence, then with Rome. But it is a different kind of love--very different aspects of Italy. Rome seems more real--like life actually continues.

This is fun - cause KAMG is me! I haven't been on the board in a long time (basically since Dublin planning in late 04) and I start planning an 05 trip to Italy and see this post! I have checked it a few times in the last year and a half, but was overjoyed to see it on the recent list tonight!

You see, DH and I are taking my grandparents (not old biddies, early 60's, fun, and in energetic, will be wonderful travel partners!) to Italy next year and are deciding whether to skip Rome or not. I feel like it would be a disservice to them to skip it, on what may be there only chance to go to Italy. BUT they are not city people, so while there are many wonderful things to see in Rome, our travels may be better suited to a place 'less intense' (while I'm not such a regular on the board, I love Rex's wit, and he nailed it on this one, as did Capo)

While I want to go back someday, we are doing Tuscay & Venice and could happily fill the rest of the time in the Lakes. With perhaps a coastal trip for 2 days (San Remini? Did CT last time, and loved it)

After reading my posts, and all the responses, I'm struggling! I want to give Rome another chance, and can fly into there and out of Venice, but don't want to do it on just a brief 3 days again.

We were hot, exhausted, and overwhelmed there, but what I remember NOW, looking back, is that Rome at night is marvelous! One of my most talked about memories from our honeymoon was having way too much wine, and then almost crying over a horse I wanted to feed an apple to in P. Navona (sounds ridiculous to me too, I grew up w/ horses and was sad for that one to be a city horse, lol)

We bought two wonderful paintings that night (before all the wine), had a great dinner, and just had a great night. Another night near Trevi fountain also wonderful, and can't remember the third night.

So I'm torn. Don't want to arrive there jetlagged and have only 3 days, but I am not willing to give it more time on a 12 day trip. I also won't give up Venice as my last stop, and Rome doesnt' fit anywhere but at the beginning. So... My thought is to let flight prices decide when they are published at the end of this month. If we can fit Rome in cheaper, we go, if not, we stay more Northern. Convince me otherwise if you have the best 3 day itinerary and convenient location to stay in!

I'll keep you all posted. Please know that my feelings from this post still stand, that I'm willing to give it another try, but am cautious about that try as well! KAMG

Have to apologize for the spelling in that last post - sorry!

That one poster got me, so I can't resist... While I live on the outskirts of a small NY city - not in some bigtime fashionable one - I'm not the surburban queen that one terrible poster described me as(63 acres of farm fields behind my house), and I certainly don't willingly eat at the Olive Garden!

Sigh, to stoop to that level...

I love Rome, even more than Venica and Florence. But I enjoy Milan and Naples too so perhaps what I enjoy is not the same as other travelers.
I do have one real strong thought.
It has been my experience that people that do not like Rome do not like it because; they do not like big chaotic cities, they are there for too short of a time, usually with jet lag. They try to do too much in to short of a time.
They go to Rome when it is hot and humid and full of tourist.
Had a family member that waited all his life to go to Rome. He loves big cities so that was not a problem. But he and family (6 of them) went in August. They had 3 weeks vacation and first did London, than Paris, that Turin, than Venice, than Florence (by this time Florence was hot and humid, teenagers were complaining about everything, entire family exhausted from trying to see to many places in to short of a time). Soooo, the last stop was Rome. Think they were there 3 to 4 days. Air so bad could hardly breath.
Italians that could had fled the city (as the always do), tourist everywhere.
So for them Rome was "awful". They now, a few years later, realize that it was not Rome. It was their situation. They will try to return in cooler climate, give themselves more time etc.
Anyway, their situation has seem to me the reason most travellers do not like Rome.

My husband and I went to Rome a few years back in July. Due to the time of year it was hot and smelly - but I cannot hold that against the city.

I loved the architecture, I loved to contrast of the ancient and the new, I loved the Vatican, the Forum etc.

But all that said when we left I said, ok done Rome, never have to come back.

But now we are looking to take our kids to italy for the first time. I feel that we cannot take them to Italy without taking them to Rome, so Rome here we come again.

This time we will be going in the spring not the summer so hopefully cooler weather. And my younger son is so looking forward to the ancient sites that I cannot wait to see it again through his eyes.

But for me - since we left venice last time I could not wait to get back there, and that is the first stop on our next trip and I am SO EXCITED to go baack to Venice!

As my trip gets closer I will have many many questions to ask, but for now I am taking notes from others.

Donna

How about some suggested guidelines for those of us taking someone to Rome who'll be seeing it for the first time. For example: the trick might be to keep to certain of the prettier areas, to limit the amount of time in the more congested areas, etc. Which un-intimidating or quietly romantic neighborhoods would you recommend for lodging, restaurants? Which of the major tourist sites will be most certainly overwhelming (e.g., sounds like we should be prepared to find the Coliseum hectic)?

>... I certainly don't willingly eat at the Olive Garden!

Sigh, to stoop to that level... <

For some of us, small town in rural Georgia, An Olive Garden is a step up.

(addressing the original post...)
I LOVE that the Colosseo is in the middle of a main traffic route !
Could such amazing history be any more integrated with the people that live there now ?!!?!?
One of my best memories is being on the back of my boyfriends motorino after Roma won a match against Hamburg.... we were on the Colosseo road and the traffic came to a complete standstill in utter chaos, horns blasting, people hanging out of cars, waving flags, chanting and carrying on ! Very hard not to get caught up in the passion of the moment. A glimpse of the past perhaps !
I think Rome is a city you have to live in, even for a little while, to really appreciate how incredible it is and how unique and wonderful the people are. Che bella Roma !

I visited Rome 28 years ago and am returning with a friend in November to visit the Tuscany area and will end up in Rome for a few days. I loved everything about Rome then and am curious to see my reaction to it all these years later. I have such great memories of that first trip - I'm looking forward to experiencing the grandeur of Rome again!

To the poster who was wondering about quiet/calm places to see in Rome: great idea.

I have never been to Rome in July/August, have never stayed on a busy street (always renting apartments in Trastevere or by Campo di Fiori, one hotel experience at del Senato). And I have always, always loved Rome.

I suspect I would love it anyway, as I have been interested in art history and history (Roman in particular, but also the history of Catholicism and Protestantism) all my adult life. And I don't mind cities! I'll take a little grit or grafitti in a quiet courtyard over a perfectly painted street with four lanes of trafffic any day.

I like the area around Piazza Farnese, the furniture/artisan shops and streets between Piazza Navona and Campo di Fiori (I have poor memory for directions: is this correct), the tiny Jewish Ghetto, some areas of Trastevere, some residential areas by the Vatican.

I try to avoid Via Veneto, the Spanish Steps, busy streets by Termini. Basically I never stay on a thoroughfare. Though if I did, I'd simply make an attempt to seek out a nearby cafe/bar/restaurant/piazza with a more tranquil "vibe" to hang out in.

I think it's likely, though, that I'm missing lots of other quiet/calm areas that are still central to the sights. Would love to hear suggestions for more.

cfc,
It depends on who you are taking. I, for example, live for chaos! I love quiet, beautiful countrysides and busy, hectic cities. Somehow, calm, quiet 'cities', don't quite do it for me.

Love the hurly-burly myself to a degree and big lover of antiquities, but let's just say we're going with people who are light sleepers, easily put off by a degree of urban grundge, will willingly trudge around sights by day but their sense of adventure goes down with the sun.

Maybe you can start feeding these people wine in the early evening until they pass out?

Never stayed there, but perhaps someone has a suggestion somewhere near the Vatican for hotel?

I like wandering around the Forum and Palatine Hill for peace and quiet over the Coloseum. (Though I wouldn't miss the Coloseum. Maybe do that briefly first, then relax in Forum and later...another day? Palatine.)

Borghese Gardens (and the Galleria). Have only been there on a sunny winter's day: very relaxing.

Help!!! I am now more confused than ever!!! After reading this thread, I now do not know if I should be spending an entire week in Rome. I am leaving for Italy next week, and I am planning to stay one week in Florence, and one week in Rome. From the messages posted here, I think that one week is too much time for me in Rome. I have been to Venice, Cortina d'ampezzo and Sardegna, and I like the feel of a somewhat "smaller" city. Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe I should tour the Tuscan countryside instead of doing Rome for 7 days? Any HELP would be greatly appreciated!!!!!

lawyer630 - don't panic - my wife and I recently had two very enjoyable weeks in Rome and felt very much at home in doing so. However, if Tuscany calls, we also had a lovely week staying in an apartment just outside San Gimiginano. In fact, we wouldn't have missed either, so much did we enjoy them. My view is: if you really want to see Rome, go for it. if you're luke-warm, don't risk it! How's that for sitting-on-the-fence-advice?

Hi Lawyer,

Rome is not near the top of my must see list, however, I would venture that there are more posts from people who have loved a week in Rome than not.

Mid Oct is not the best time to visit Tuscany, but you could revisit Venice for 4 days and spend the other 3 in Siena and vicinity.

What are your airline arrangements?

lswyer630:

My wife and I just returned from five nights in Rome ... fist visit ... I had some of your concerns ... we LOVED it! Don't sweat it ... terrific city!

Lawyer630: It seems to me that one thing that has emerged quite consistently from the postings in this thread is that it was those who spent three days or so in Rome who felt most overwhelmed and that it was those who gave Rome more time who were more able to adapt to the rhythm of the city and to enjoy what it had to offer.

My suggestion would be either to skip Rome entirely (if you genuinely dislike large cities) or to give it the week you had planned. Stay in the historic centre (Piazza Navona / Pantheon / Campo de Fiori area), from where you can walk to almost any point of interest -- with the possible exception of the Vatican in one direction and the Forum /at one end and the Forum at the other -- you enjoy

Sorry -- hit the wrong key...!

To continue: the Vatican in one direction and the Forum / Colosseum in the other -- and where you can return to enjoy the narrow streets full of rose and amber-coloured buildings, the small trattorias, the cafés.

If you don't have to rush, rush, rush to see and do whatever things might be on your list, you will not find the pace of Rome as relentless, you will be able to sit back and enjoy "dolce far niente," as someone has already said ("the sweetness of doing nothing"), and you will come away impressed by the richness of Rome rather than overwhelmed by it.

First I would like to thank all who replied so quickly to me message. I guess I am a little panic striken.
IRA, I knew that you would come through for me!!! As for Tuscany in October, why not? I do not think that it is their rainy season just yet....is it? As for my airline tickets, I am also flying out of Florence, but I can change it at any time with no penalty. Should I just stay in Florence and take day trips? I also have some friends in Rome. MAybe I should tell them to come visit me in Florence instead of me going to Rome. Ira, as you can tell I am in panic mode...I am leaving next Thursday...Help!!!! Also, do you suggest a taxi or a limo or the train from Florence airport to my hotel in downtown Florence, The Hotel Continentale?

I hate to *ever* disagree with Eloise (who I consider my Rome expert!), but we stayed one block from Campo Fiori and we thought it was an easy walk to the Vatican and a moderate walk even to the Forum.

The area Eloise suggests is the PERFECT location to stay in Rome. We followed her advice and were delighted with the location!

Hi lawyer,

First: breathe deeply: sit down and have a glass of wine. You are going to the land of "il dolce far niente".

>As for Tuscany in October, why not? I do not think that it is their rainy season just yet....is it?<

It's not so much that it is the start of the rainy season, but that Tuscany will be brown, not green.

Check the forecast for Florence and Siena at www.weather.com.

> As for my airline tickets, I am also flying out of Florence, but I can change it at any time with no penalty.<

>Should I just stay in Florence and take day trips? I also have some friends in Rome. MAybe I should tell them to come visit me in Florence instead of me going to Rome.

I would stick with a week in Rome and a week in Florence, especially since you have friends in Rome.

If you find the city getting to be too much for you, take the train to Ostia Antica and visit the ruins and go on to Lido di Ostia and look at the Tyhrrenian Sea.

You can also take the train to Orvieto for a day.

>...do you suggest a taxi or a limo or the train from Florence airport to my hotel in downtown Florence, The Hotel Continentale? <

A cab will be 10-15E.

Enjoy your visit, and remember that in Florence only tourists eat gelato from a cone. The natives use a cup.

We just back from 3 weeks in Italy, starting with 6 days in Rome. I was prepared for pickpockets and horror stories based on things I had read, but found Rome to be delightful n every way. Yes, it is intense, but if you pace yourself and plan things well, it is wonderful. We did two very good things. We booked semi-private tours of Ancient Rome and the Vatican with Scala Reale. There were only 6 people on each of these tours and they had planned it so that we didn't have to wait in line for anything. We began the Ancient Rome tour from the entrance to the Palatine hill and we walked right into the Coliseum because we already had our tickets. At the Vatican, we started our tour at 2:30 and there were no lines. Yes it was crowded in the Sistine Chapel, but not overwhelming except for the beauty. We did take taxis more often than we had planned, but it was only to be able to see more things quickly. We took the metro and bus to Villa d'Este and loved being in the Country for a morning. We found a great new hotel 20 meters from Piazza Navona that we loved. We opened our window every morning to a view of the dome of St. Agnes of Agone church. I am glad that we visited Rome first because we were then ready for a little down time along the Amalfi Coast. Our last night in Rome we went to Travestere to a quaint little Roman restaurant called Da Lucia and wandered into a piazza where there was a live theater performance. It was beautiful, magical, and truly a wonderful way to end our trip to Rome. I will definitely go back again. Six days were not nearly enough! Then on to Florence afterwards which was also fabulous but very intense. Then to Lucca and Sienna and finishing in Venice. I am still dreaming of Italy! I am already planning my next trip.

Hi Sandy,

>We found a great new hotel 20 meters from Piazza Navona that we loved. <

Mind sharing the name?

Hey Ira,

First and foremost, thank you, thank you thank you!!!!

I will stick to your advice, and drink a glass of wine (or two, or three)...
As for Florence v. Rome, I will take your advice and do the split. I will also make sure to eat gelato from a cup. On a more serious note, I read your train posting a while ago, but I do not recall that when I do buy a train ticket from Florence to Rome, do I need to specify a time, or just the day? Which train do you suggest from Florence to Rome? Ira, thank you once again for all of your help. I wait for your reply.....

Hi Lawyer,

If you are sure of when you will be taking the train from Florence to Rome, you can buy your ticket at www.trenitalia.com/en.

Use the ticketless option and bring your email confirmation with you. The ES* train is all reserved seating, so that confirmation is your ticket.

You can also buy your ticket in Florence at the train station or from any TA (small fee from a TA).

If you opt for a less expensive ticket on the IC, you have an open ticket, good for any train, any day. However, it would be a good idea to purchase a seat reservation a few days before you want to travel.

I think our like or dislike for any particular city is just felt on an emotional level...like falling in love..well you ARE falling in love..or not..with the place you are visiting. Rome is just fascinating and the way the ruins are integrated into everyday life is amazing. You're walking down the street in a modern city and all of a sudden you are walking under a 2,000 year old aquaduct or right there before your eyes looms the colosseum...it's just a big "wow"!!!! I really wish I had more time to spend there...only had three days...but having said that...at the same time Rome just didn't "grab" me. I felt really drawn to London, Paris, and Venice..don't always know why..that's just the way it was. I think that if anyone has the opportunity to spend some time in Rome and chooses NOT to go there, is nuts. Go, and you'll be glad you did, and who knows, a whole new "love affair" might begin for you.

I have found it's so very easy to simply walk into a travel agency in Rome and buy your train tickets.

For some reason I've always found the trenitalia web site a little confusing. I like just going into an office and dealing with someone face to face. On the other hand, I've always been a little flexible with my schedule (not with dates, but time of day).

I did not expect to like Rome a great deal, and certainly not as much as Florence. Well, it turned out to be the opposite for me! My first impression of Rome was that it was completely overwhelming. I couldn't figure out where I was on a map because there were no street signs (I quickly learned that street names are on plaques on corner buildings). I was ready to throw in the towel and hole up in the hotel for two days until I left for Florence. But once I reached peace with the fact that there is NO WAY to pretend you're not a tourist because you have to be absolutely glued to a map as the streets change name every block and are tiny and narrow, I *loved* it. I'm a city girl, so maybe that has something to do with it. Love the bustle and the tons of people on the streets. Loved the triumph of figuring out how to use the buses. I loved seeing the juxtaposition of ancient and modern, and that you can't walk a few blocks without stumbling on a church you can pop into for some amazing art. Visiting the ruins of the Forum was one of the most incredible experiences of my life.

On the other hand, I didn't really love Florence as I had expected to. I think the fact that the city center is so compact (v. Rome) makes it much more touristy and less like a real working city.

Lawyer, I wouldn't skip it, don't leave yourself always wondering if you are a lover of Rome!

My greatest piece of advice, and the one I will follow for my 2005 trip, is location, location, location. We stayed at Hotel Oxford, billed as 'near' the Spanish Steps. I would not define it as near any of the sights you aim to see on a short trip to Rome. Some have mentioned they liked being out that far bc it felt more tranquil. For us having 3 days, it felt like a hassle to be out so far the entire time. Next trip we'll go with Eloise's suggestion and stay in the 'historic' center. I think that could greatly alter my view. And ppl here are right, we're not big city people, so all aspects of being a tourist in one are a bit more bothersome to me than to some others.

I think crefloors nailed it for me though, you just have an emotional feel for a city, and Rome just wasn't it for me. Venice however... ahhhh.

Happy Travels to Lawyer, who I believe leaves in 2 days!

While I agree with crefloors about the whole love affair thing, I think Rome is a little bit different. It is such a large city, and has so many layers, that it can strike you from one part (for example, the ancient history aspects) and not on another level at all (for example, the religious level). I think it is amazing for this fact: that you can fall in love with your own favorite aspects of Rome and almost be unaware of others. Florence, for one, isn't like this nearly as much, and Venice almost not at all.

In Italy, Rome is the center of everything--history, art, religion, politics. It took me a while to realize this--that even if one layer doesn't interest me, another might. You can fall in love with the different levels of Rome, one, or two, or all of them. It doesn't just have different neighborhoods with different feelings, but it is actually a mix of completely different cities. It has been so many places! I think that is why it appeals to me--the levels and layers just keep growing. It really is a unique city.

Lawyer630:

While I have never disagreed with Ira before, I have to say that I do not think you would want to visit Venice in mid-October. We just got back from there and they already have the platforms out (they were not out when we arrived but were out three days into our stay anticipating the rising water and the rains have now set in a bit. Also, my friends have been discouraged from visiting there at this time of year by their respective travel agents. We were in Tuscany, too, and do think that you would be fine visiting at least the area around San Gimignano, Siena (like Ira said) and the Chianti region. Our friends are also going to the Amalfi Coast, which I know nothing about, so you might want to check that out but I have heard that it can at times be foggy. If you do not want to spend a full seven days in Rome, you can do some day trips out - like Orvieto. Anyway, I just got back from Rome and upon first reflection, felt like OK - glad I saw it but now I'm done. We loved the city, the feeling of excitement, the architecture but... the people were so indifferent and at times, rude. This happened from concierges to waiters to sales people in stores, etc. The only consistent nice Romans we encountered were the taxi drivers. Now I am sure everyone has their own personal experiences, and these just happen to be ours, but I am not sorry I went and actually feel that someday I would like to return but maybe for another 3-4 days, not seven. Whatever, you decide, enjoy!

HI,

I AM GOING TO ROME FOR TWO DAYS.

PLEASE ADVISE ME ON HOW MUCH TO TAKE.

I JUST WANT TO SIGHT SEE.

During a 4 night trip to Rome a few weeks ago i did not find Rome a horror. I was not nearly as charmed/enchanted by Rome as many others are. (Like a few others I didnt much care for Venice.)

I would like to go back and perhaps then i will put rome at the beginning of my trip rather than the very end. I would especially love to go back and basically spend a day at the Vatican Museum by itself.

the sights of Rome were outstanding. i loved the history and the great art museums. would have loved to have had time to explore the catacombs and pompeii. I must say that a museum card would certainly have been a very nice thing.

I must say, however, that by the time i left Rome i found myself craving order...there was just too much chaos for my taste. Paris remains my favorite city

I have been to Rome a dozen times and enjoyed each and every visit.

Rome is a big, busy city and therefore somewhat chaotic. It is also exciting, romantic and amazing. I find the architecture beautiful and the remnants of the Roman empire and what came after, combined with the modern city conveniences, to be a wonderful blend of the old and new.

So, for me, Rome holds pleasure, not horror.

Perceptions are a funny thing.

Loved Rome, not thrilled with Florence. Perhaps I didn't spend enough time in Florence though, just a few hours.

I found Rome to be light years ahead of NYC as far as cleanliness. On the other hand, Florence to me was almost as dirty.

I view the Coliseum as a let down, but everything else in Rome exceeded my EXPECTATIONS.

How long were you in Rome for?

I have to echo PLMN's sentiments. The coliseum was great for me but other than that, I agree word for word.

I loved, loved, loved Rome more than Venice or Florence or Siena or Sorrento or even London.

Yes, absolutely. Rome is just dreadful. Piazza San Pietro? Its an old dump. Foro Romano? Nothing but a bunch of old stones strewn about.
The espresso? Oh, phooey!
I guess I haven't learned any lessons after a dozen visits. Nor will I learn any for the next dozen.

Oh Platzman, LOL!!! Well just keep taking dozens of trips to Rome and maybe you can find something horrible?

In the meantime, what fun you will have.

Point of interest. Today I had a grandson visit me. He was an exchange student when he was a Sr. in HS for one year in Italy. His only experience of Rome was in the summer when his parents arrived and they traveled for three weeks in August. I tried to tell them, Rome in Italy is not good, but it was the only time they could go.

So at the end of the three weeks, for three days they were in Rome. Plus their stupid TA had them take a train all the way to London to fly home (his parents had flown from westcoast of US to London to start their trip). So during this hot, humid, tourist overloaded three days in Rome part the whole family was exhausted, hot, miserable and dreading the train ride back to London and than the flight back to USA.
And grandson did NOT like Rome. But loved Italy and also spoke fluent Italian.

A couple of years has passed since than. And today he asked me if he and I could go together in 2006, possibly Feb. to Italy together on an open jaw flight. Fly into Rome and home from Venice.

He realizes now that Rome is beautiful, fantastic, earthy, sophisticated and beyond all description. He said it was just the circumstances of this three miserable days there that made him feel at the time he found Rome horrible (his word not mine). I smiled to myself remembering this thread.

So sure some will never like or love Rome. But IMHO for those that have been there and were not happy may I suggest that you try Rome again, in a better situation.

Hello everyone!!! I want to thank all of you for the input on Rome, I just got back 3 weeks ago from Italy. I flew into Florence, and fell in love with the city!!!! However, I had to go to Rome to visit friends, and I was planning on spliting up my trip, half Florence half Rome. Well, as soon as I stepped onto the train platform in Rome, I wanted to turn around and go back to Florence!!! Rome is exremely overwhelming, and I was determined that it would be my first and last trip to the city!!! I saw absolutely everything in two days, and went back to Florence to finish my vacation. For anyone traveling to Florence, there are so many things to do in the city, and also take as many day trips as you can. I am planning on going back in March 2005!!! Any questions, feel free to post them!!!!

Well as a Priest I knew use to say "thank goodness we all don't like the same place or that place would sure be overcroweded". As Florence is!

Hummmm, you stepped out onto the train station platform in Rome and got your first impression of Rome.

And you saw absolutely everything in Rome in two days!!!!

I have nothing more to add.

To LoveItaly...I agree we you.."thank goodness we all don't like the same place or that place would sure be overcrowded". However, Florence was not as overcrowded as people think.

Our first trip to Rome was in 1971. We drove in from Germany where I was in the Army. The USO got us a great hotel near the Vatican. The first night we decided to "explore" the town by car...our 1969 VW Beetle. I got stuck in a traffic jam in a small square that was so bad I thought my wife and I would have to abandon the car and walk back to the hotel. There were cars everywhere! Coming and going and honking and not moving! We worked ourselves out of that and never touched our car again...until we left town.

RULE 1: Never drive in Rome!

Rome then was crowded, but different. You could walk up to the Pieta in the Vatican as the madman had not attacked it yet. Now they have it behind glass and far away.

This was summer, but the crowds were not as bad. Not as many people were able to go to Europe in 71 versud now. We returned to Rome in 1998 and it was much more crowded and hectic.

Will we go back? Yes. There are things to see in Rome that make it worth the trip and the crowds. We do not find it a horror....just an over popular town that will always be that way. You gotta do Rome at least one time...and hopefully more than once. There is no other city like Rome.

RULE #2: Read rule #1

TravelDa...,
there is an old Roman song called VECCHIA ROMA,the lyrics are:
Son Ricordi di un tempo bello che non c'e piu ..These are remembrance of a beautiful time that is forever gone..

I remember my beautiful city like it used to be..

Keeping this thread going... I just returned from Europe a few weeks ago and I spent the first 3 days in Rome. I absolutely loved Rome... the amazing historical sights... the great food... the vibrant street life. My only regret is why did I wait 41 years to go...

May I humbly suggest (ducking my head as stones are being thrown at me) that those who do not like or love Rome not visit there so that those of us who do will not have so many tourist to contend with?

A favorite AA member of a friend of mine who'se been sober for years was a Hells Angels-looking type whose scruffy appearance masked a lot of wisdom. He used to say, "Thank God we don't all like the same things. If we were, where would we park all the Harleys?"

Exactly Mary_Fran!! LOL

Well, for the ones who did not like or love Rome, why would they go back anyway?

Perhaps because they have an inferiority complex , they want to be in the spotlights,and complainings about a famous city or about the people in a certain country, gave them a five minutes fame in this forum .

I used to dislike Rome alot after visiting there two times. Just two weeks ago I came back from being in Rome for 12 days and loved it. I am going back again soon. If you are there for 1-3 days it sucks because it takes that long to get into the swing of things. Spend a little bit more time there and you'll really enjoy it

I found Rome overwhelming! I thought that the amount of of people trying to scam my stepfather was alarming. There I learned that Italian men especially those in Rome, court agressively. Even a little shopkeeper tried to cheat me out of some change. I felt like I really had to be on the ball. It was exhausting!
I threw a coin into the Trevi Fountain. You know that they say it will mean you'll come back soon. I was there again a month later and my experience was GrEaT! Knowing what to expect was half the battle. (My travel partner was a woman also in her early twenties and we weren't preyed on like my stepfather.) I love Rome now. But no where near as much as Paris! =)

Loved Rome, our favorite city in Italy. But our 4 days in Rome were very carefully planned, with centrally located hotel near the Pantheon (Hotel Nazionale a Montecitorio on Piazza Montecitorio)...step out the door and there's the Pantheon right around the corner. Also planned what sites we could walk to (plenty), and we had a private licensed tour guide for a 4-hour guided walking tour of ancient rome right from the doorstep of our hotel on our first morning in Rome!

Also planned transportation, schedule to visit sites at least crowded times, etc. The only thing we needed public trnsportation for was the bus to visit the Vatican Museums and St. Peter's. Everything else we visited was within walking distance, making for a relaxing trip.

So if you haven't taken your trip yet and you are reading this, to get the most out of Rome, stay in a hotel where you can walk to most of your sites. Minimize the amount of public transportaton needed. I recommend staying near the Pantheon.

KAMG, did I just read your 2003 trip report for Ireland, where your bus got stuck in the snow, or do I have you confused with someone else?

We left our last day in Rome unplanned as by then we figured we'd enjoy a spontaneous day and we did.

KAMG, sorry you didn't enjoy Rome. I have a confession too...I hated Florence! When we left Florence I breathed a big sigh of relief. I'm pretty sure we were in Florence during the most crowded 3 days of the entire year!

Melissa - I am the same person (KAMG/Travelphile) who's Dublin report you read.

For our upcoming trip(9 days!) We did decide to leave out Rome. The furthest south we will be is Siena - and we have a wonderful 16 days planned! Thanks for the tips and enjoy Dublin - laid back, didn't seem to be anything overwhelming there

I'm going to Rome the first few days in Nov, but will only be there for two days at the end of a 2-week trip to Tuscany. The first and only time I was in Rome I really didn't like it at all. It was also after a wonderful and relaxing trip to Capri, and of course the differences between the two places were pretty drastic! I thought Rome was way too hectic, dirty and there were street peddlers everywhere trying to sell things like ugly leather vests (lol) and yelling in your face...but, by the last day I was starting to like it more, of course by that time we had to go home! I am hoping that I'll like it better this time around that I know what to expect at least! I'm trying to keep an open mind and give Roma another chance! But I agree, I think you have to be there more than a day or two to get a feel for the city.

Often when I don't experience the same thrill in a place like Rome that others do, I find it is for one of several reasons:

1. I didn't spend enough time.
2. I went with the wrong person (hated Venice with my daughter, loved it with my husband).
3. I had a single bad experience and blew it out of proportion.
4. I was in a bad mood.

I get very frustrated when I don't like a place that I believe I should like. So I go back until I do. Most places take no more than a second trip - Rome included. Didn't love it the first time - adored it the second.

Then again, I suppose there are those places we won't all adore. I just haven't found one yet.

I visited Rome ( and the Vatican ) for 2 days in February, 2003. I was there during Ash Wednesday. Now that I plan my own trips, I normally spend at least 10 days in a city, but the trip to Italy was planned by someone else, so unfortunately, to my mind, we just blew through it. My first impression was that Rome is dirty, and it reminds me of how I imagine a third world city south of the border would appear. I wouldn't call it filthy, but it IS dirty. The Center 1 hotel close to the train station was a horror, but I won't go into that. My most pleasant memories are of the people we dealt with, in shops, trattorias, restaurants, tourist areas, etc. When I asked directions, or ordered food in Italian, almost everyone was nice and helpful, and even tried to help me along in Italian. I guess because we were two guys sightseeing together, we had no problem with any taxi drivers or pickpockets, although 3 females in our large 12 person group did maintain that they had been cheated. I even managed to take a photo of Pope John Paul in St.Peter's cathedral after the Ash Wednesday service. I've read that the reason the underground is not very extensive in Rome is because of all the artifacts and archaeological sites that appear every time digging gets under way. This explanation makes sense. I plan to go again to Rome, but the next time I'll do it right, and spend at least 10 days there so I can see more things and get a better feel for the city.

Eurovoyages -- Athens had the same excuse for not digging more subways...but the 2004 Olympics changed the need. What they did was unearth all sorts of goodies as they dug along, and put them in display cases in the subway waiting areas.

I think Rome would be wise to do the same, and their city would be that much less dirty from all the pollution associated with the excess cars, scooters and buses on the surface.

Jules

Reminded me of disneyland when i was there in June this year.

But hey it's Rome, a big crazy european city with some of the most amazing things exisiting on the planet.

Had a great time the day we visited the spanish steps with an Italian Beatles band recreating the Apple rooftop concert. Magic

I'll be goin back as there is still lots more to see.

Trip

This thread was started in 2003. The other thread isn't canvassing enough views?

Sorry, KAMG, but I don't really understand why you seem to be so upset about supposed "dirty flags" (there are very few flags in Rome to begin with) when you are gazing at the Colosseum, the Pantheon and the Roman Forum. You said you did a lot of research for your trip. Did you never realize that Rome is a city of over 3 million people? How did you expect that a visit to Rome would have transported you from modern city life? Part of the fun of Rome is the juxtoposition of the ancient and the modern. I have lived here for years and have never noticed that the city is more commercial than NY or that the Italians are such an unhappy people (far from it!) I can understand if it had not been your favorite city or if you didn't plan on coming back, but you seem to have decided to hate it for utterly trivial reasons and to have completely missed its unique beauty.

Romana

KAMG wrote this in March, 2003. Trip 2006 has resurrected a dead and buried thread. KAMG may also be well & truly dead & buried as far I know.

As of now, Rome is my next European destination, but the thing I hear repeatedly is about the crime. Both of my closest friends who have been to Rome were robbed and neither lacks travel savvy. And now I read about dishonest cab drivers. Any caveats to quell my fears?

My sister and I just returned from 8 days in Rome. The city is beautiful, but the sad part was all the garbage everywhere. The graffiti is destroying/has destroyed just about every single mile of the city. The Tiber river was really bad. How could the Vatican, with all it's power and money not help bring back the beauty that once was. I am Catholic, and so dissappointed the church let the city get this bad. I loved Rome.

A couple observations:
-Crime is no more prevalent in Rome than most any large city. Things like armed robberies and other violent crimes are probably much less per person than in most US cities.
There are scam artists that try to sucker tourists out of their money.
The "flower distributors" at the Spanish steps is just one example.This is true of most tourist spots.

Where Rome has an obvious problem is in pickpockets/bag snatchers.
I have traveled to Rome 5 times for about 30 days. I'll return this Oct. for another week. Last time my wife almost had her wallet lifted from her purse and twice I caught someone trying to lift mine.
These were the only circumstances that we have personally faced.
Our experiences were on public transport and that's probably where most of these crimes take place.
Take the advice of many threads here and protect yourself.
-graffiti
I know that it's there,but in all honesty I really don't "notice" it. There's so much else to see.
-"Garbage everywhere"
Rome is much cleaner than the 70's.
I've never been to Rome in August,possibly garbage is a bigger problem then. I know that it's the heaviest time for civl service workers (garbage collectors, street sweepers ,etc) vacations.
-Tiber's been dirty for a looooong time. Read some history books about it 100's of years ago.
-"I am Catholic, and so dissappointed the church let the city get this bad. I loved Rome."

I agree with your love of Rome,but you might be more at peace about this if you read some history of the church and how long that it has been since they have the power (or even money for that sake) that you seem to think they have.

Why would the Vatican be able to do anything about the alleged problems in Rome? You are talking about two separate entities. Would the UN attempt to involve themselves in the problems of New York City?

Indylady lives!!
Didn't you start a thread that said Rome, a big disapointment? and now you are saying you loved Rome? Have you been back to thread?

I am having a difficult time imagining how graffiti could have either destroyed, or be in the process of destroying, every inch of ANY city! Next thing you know someone will want to know about ordering a toga to wander around in.

I was warned about how horrible Rome was before I went...I LOVED it! It was my favorite city in Italy. I had a great time there, never got tired of seeing the sites, and thought it more than lived up to my historical/archeological/architectural expectations. It was just an incredible city. I spent five days there and could have easily spent five more and then probably another five after that. It struck me as the kind of place of which I could never grow tired. I agree that it is a very fast paced city, which did bother me for the first day or so. By the time I left, though, that was one of my favorite things about it. Perhaps the difference in opinion is at least partially because I went with relatively low expecations based on what I had been told. When I found the opposite to be true, I was pleasantly surprised.

I related to this subject. I had my wallet and passport lifted out of my hand by two guys on a Vespa my first night in Rome. I traveled around Italy and returned two weeks later and was accosted by a gang of Gypsy kids. This time I fought back and recovered.

I have worked in NYC and feel comfortable in the middle of Times Square at midnight. Rome needs to crack down on petty crime if it wants to continue to attract tourists.

I love Italy, but it has lots of other beautiful and safe cities to enjoy without feeling uneasy.