Degas Rome Walk: Southern Churches
Jan 7th, 2006, 06:15 AM
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Degas Rome Walk: Southern Churches
Check this one out and give me some feedback. Looking for other places to see and things to do enroute, and suggestions on where to eat and drink.
I think there is a department store near San Giovanni Laterano and also parts of the old city wall. I may be dreaming, but think I also caught a bus close by and went out to the catacombs one time.
Degas Rome Walks: Southern Churches
This looks to be a long walk, but doable since you stop frequently and sit inside the churches admiring the interiors.
Remember most churches close at 12 or 1 pm for a few hours and then reopen at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. You could do first three in the morning, have lunch, and then see San Giovanni Laterano and the remainder later in the afternoon.
Start: SAN PIETRO VINCOLI
NOTE: You can reach San Pietro in Vincoli through a dark archway on Via Cavour which has only a few steps. That's the way to go. Another way is large amount of stairs off Via degli Annibaldi.
Contains chains (vincoli) that bound St. Peter during his incarceration in Mamertine Prison (next to Santi Luca e Martina basilica at the Forum). The chains were eventually taken to Costantinpole. During the 5th century, Empress Eudoxia put one of the chains in a church in Constantinpole and gave the other one to her daughter, Eudoxia, in Rome. Her daughter gave her chain to Pope Leo I, who built St. Pietro in Vincoli to house it. Many years later, the second chain was brought back to Rome where it miraculously linked with the other already there. They are enshrined in a beautiful tabernacle on the altar. Best known for Michelangelo's breathtaking Moses. This marble tomb facade is breathtaking. Also, check out the picture frame on the opposite wall in front of the High Altar that has skeletons holding up the frame.
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/spvinc.html
WALK SOUTH THROUGH THE DOMUS AUREA GREEN AREA TO VIA DI GIOVANNI IN LATERANO, THEN SOUTHEAST TO
CHURCH OF SAN CLEMENTE
This 11C church's 12C apse mosaic with its Tree of Life motif, the chapel just to the right of the entrance frescoed in the 15C by early Florentine master Masolino, and the massive 6C marble schola cantorum taking up much of the nave. Head downstairs and see Rome's layer effect at work, exploring down one level the church's earlier incarnation (4C), down two levels the remains of a pagan temple to Mithras and an AD 1C house, and down three levels a street and buildings from Rome's 2nd Century BC and even view water from an aqueduct that still runs through here.
roma.katolsk.no/clemente.htm
www.initaly.com/regions/l...emente.htm
NOTE: Ulderico is a small trattoria across the street from San Clemente,and is frequented by locals from the neighborhood. But they do have a menu in English. They make an especially good bucatini amatriciana, stewed veal and peas, fritto misto del mare and be sure to try the roast potatoes.
OPPOSITE SAN CLEMENTE, WALK A SHORT WAYS DOWN VIA DEI QUERCETTI TO
CHURCH OF SANTI QUATTRO CORONATI (AND CLOISTER).
This used to be the bastion of the pope's residence, the Lateran Palace. It is named for the four Christian soldiers who refused to worship a pagan god. It was built in the 4C and rebuilt after the invasion of the Normans in 1084. You can get special permission to visit the beautiful cloister, which was built c. 1220, one of the earliest of its kind.
View the Chapel of St. Barbara, which has remnants of medieval frescoes. The Chapel of St. Sylvester, which has frescoes of 1246 depicting the conversion of Constantine to Christianity. The story goes that Constantine was stricken by the plague (leprosy) and was told in order to be cured he must bathe in children's blood. Refusing to do so, he was supposedly visited by St. Peter & St. Paul in a dream, who told him to find Pope Sylvester I (who reigned 314-35), who cured him and baptized him. It also has a wonderful Carolingian bell tower.
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/coronati.html
roma.katolsk.no/quattrocoronati.htm
www.initaly.com/regions/l...h/4cor.htm
WALK BACK TO VIA DI GIOVANNI IN LATERANO, TURN RIGHT AND WALK EAST TO
BASILICA OF SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO (AND CLOISTER)
This is the Cathedral of Rome, the most important church after St. Peter’s. The first church was built in 314, when the Emperor Constantine gave the land to the Pope. The current building complex is made up of the Church, the Baptistery, Palazzo Lateranense, the Scala Santa and the Hospital of San Giovanni.
The current Holy Door was designed and installed for the last pilgrimage year, 2000, the Jubileum, and is quite impressive. Inside, huge statues of the Apostles (six on each side) are in niches along the sides of the nave. The 12C fresco located in this Basilica, which had originally been attributed to Giotto, was likely the work of his students. The High Altar is absolutely breathtaking. Along the outside of the church is a loggia where the Pope gives his blessing that is exposed to the elements with beautiful ceiling frescoes.
The interior is from the 17C by Borromini and the grand facade is by Alessandro Galilei of 1735. The Papal Altar in this church was originally reserved for the Pope and only he could celebrate mass from this pulpit. However, it is now used freely by other clergy to dispense the Holy Sacraments. The Papal Throne in the apse is reserved only for the Pope; in fact, he must take his seat there to become Pope officially. The Gothic baldacchino dates from the 14C. The domed octagonal baptistry dates from Constantine's time (432 AD) and is well worth viewing.
roma.katolsk.no/giovannilaterano.htm
SCALA SANCTA AND SANCTA SANCTORUM (Sacred Steps), Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, 14. 630a-1150a, 330p-645p (Oct-Mar 3p-645p) daily.
Located across the piazza from S. Giovanni in Laterano, in a building that houses two surviving parts of the old Lateran Palace. One is the pope's private chapel (Sancta Sanctorum) and the other is the Holy Staircase (Scala Santa).
The 28 steps, said to be those that Christ ascended in Pontius Pilate's house during his trial, were brought from Jerusalem by St. Helena in approximately 325 A.D. When the Lateran Palace was destroyed in the late 16th century, Pope Sixtus V had the steps moved to their present site. No foot may touch the holy steps, so they are covered by wooden boards. They may be climbed but only on your knees, a penance that is performed especially on Good Friday. However, both the left and right side of the sacred steps are staircases you can go up to see the chapels above. Other highlights of this building include the sculpture, Ecce Homo, by Giosue Meli in 1874.
The Scala Santa lead to the Chapel of St. Lawrence, or Sancta Sanctorum, built by Pope Nicholas III in 1278. This chapel contains many important relics, the most precious being an image of Jesus -- the Acheiropoeton, or "picture painted without hands", said to be the work of St. Luke, assisted by an angel. The image was taken on procession in medieval times to ward off plagues.
The church was included in the pilgrims' itinerary of Roman churches, and later became a Jubilee basilica. St Philip Neri included it in his list of seven churches that should be visited by pilgrims.
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/steps.htm
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/nail.htm
MUSEO STORICO DEL VATICANO.
THEN WALK TO VIALE CARLO FELICE AND HEAD EAST PARALLEL TO A STRETCH OF THE AURELIAN WALLS TO PIAZZA DI SANTA CROCE IN GERUSALEMME
CHURCH OF SANTA CROCE IN GERUSALEMME AND RELICS OF THE CROSS
It was consecrated in about 325, in an older building that was rebuilt to house the Passion Relics brought to Rome by St Helena. The floor was packed with soil from the Holy Land. It was at first known as the Basilica of Helena or Basilica Sessoriana (after the imperial palace that the site belonged to), but the official name was Hierusalem. The present name was given to it in the Middle Ages
The façade is from the 18th century, in the Baroque style. If you walk around the church, it is still possible to see the original Roman masonry in some places. you can also see the ruins of a medieval cloister adjacent to the church.
roma.katolsk.no/crocegeru...images.htm
roma.katolsk.no/crocegerusalemme.htm
FINISH
WALK TO PORTA SAN GIOVANNI AND TAKE THE METRO BACK
I think there is a department store near San Giovanni Laterano and also parts of the old city wall. I may be dreaming, but think I also caught a bus close by and went out to the catacombs one time.
Degas Rome Walks: Southern Churches
This looks to be a long walk, but doable since you stop frequently and sit inside the churches admiring the interiors.
Remember most churches close at 12 or 1 pm for a few hours and then reopen at 3 or 4 in the afternoon. You could do first three in the morning, have lunch, and then see San Giovanni Laterano and the remainder later in the afternoon.
Start: SAN PIETRO VINCOLI
NOTE: You can reach San Pietro in Vincoli through a dark archway on Via Cavour which has only a few steps. That's the way to go. Another way is large amount of stairs off Via degli Annibaldi.
Contains chains (vincoli) that bound St. Peter during his incarceration in Mamertine Prison (next to Santi Luca e Martina basilica at the Forum). The chains were eventually taken to Costantinpole. During the 5th century, Empress Eudoxia put one of the chains in a church in Constantinpole and gave the other one to her daughter, Eudoxia, in Rome. Her daughter gave her chain to Pope Leo I, who built St. Pietro in Vincoli to house it. Many years later, the second chain was brought back to Rome where it miraculously linked with the other already there. They are enshrined in a beautiful tabernacle on the altar. Best known for Michelangelo's breathtaking Moses. This marble tomb facade is breathtaking. Also, check out the picture frame on the opposite wall in front of the High Altar that has skeletons holding up the frame.
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/spvinc.html
WALK SOUTH THROUGH THE DOMUS AUREA GREEN AREA TO VIA DI GIOVANNI IN LATERANO, THEN SOUTHEAST TO
CHURCH OF SAN CLEMENTE
This 11C church's 12C apse mosaic with its Tree of Life motif, the chapel just to the right of the entrance frescoed in the 15C by early Florentine master Masolino, and the massive 6C marble schola cantorum taking up much of the nave. Head downstairs and see Rome's layer effect at work, exploring down one level the church's earlier incarnation (4C), down two levels the remains of a pagan temple to Mithras and an AD 1C house, and down three levels a street and buildings from Rome's 2nd Century BC and even view water from an aqueduct that still runs through here.
roma.katolsk.no/clemente.htm
www.initaly.com/regions/l...emente.htm
NOTE: Ulderico is a small trattoria across the street from San Clemente,and is frequented by locals from the neighborhood. But they do have a menu in English. They make an especially good bucatini amatriciana, stewed veal and peas, fritto misto del mare and be sure to try the roast potatoes.
OPPOSITE SAN CLEMENTE, WALK A SHORT WAYS DOWN VIA DEI QUERCETTI TO
CHURCH OF SANTI QUATTRO CORONATI (AND CLOISTER).
This used to be the bastion of the pope's residence, the Lateran Palace. It is named for the four Christian soldiers who refused to worship a pagan god. It was built in the 4C and rebuilt after the invasion of the Normans in 1084. You can get special permission to visit the beautiful cloister, which was built c. 1220, one of the earliest of its kind.
View the Chapel of St. Barbara, which has remnants of medieval frescoes. The Chapel of St. Sylvester, which has frescoes of 1246 depicting the conversion of Constantine to Christianity. The story goes that Constantine was stricken by the plague (leprosy) and was told in order to be cured he must bathe in children's blood. Refusing to do so, he was supposedly visited by St. Peter & St. Paul in a dream, who told him to find Pope Sylvester I (who reigned 314-35), who cured him and baptized him. It also has a wonderful Carolingian bell tower.
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/coronati.html
roma.katolsk.no/quattrocoronati.htm
www.initaly.com/regions/l...h/4cor.htm
WALK BACK TO VIA DI GIOVANNI IN LATERANO, TURN RIGHT AND WALK EAST TO
BASILICA OF SAN GIOVANNI IN LATERANO (AND CLOISTER)
This is the Cathedral of Rome, the most important church after St. Peter’s. The first church was built in 314, when the Emperor Constantine gave the land to the Pope. The current building complex is made up of the Church, the Baptistery, Palazzo Lateranense, the Scala Santa and the Hospital of San Giovanni.
The current Holy Door was designed and installed for the last pilgrimage year, 2000, the Jubileum, and is quite impressive. Inside, huge statues of the Apostles (six on each side) are in niches along the sides of the nave. The 12C fresco located in this Basilica, which had originally been attributed to Giotto, was likely the work of his students. The High Altar is absolutely breathtaking. Along the outside of the church is a loggia where the Pope gives his blessing that is exposed to the elements with beautiful ceiling frescoes.
The interior is from the 17C by Borromini and the grand facade is by Alessandro Galilei of 1735. The Papal Altar in this church was originally reserved for the Pope and only he could celebrate mass from this pulpit. However, it is now used freely by other clergy to dispense the Holy Sacraments. The Papal Throne in the apse is reserved only for the Pope; in fact, he must take his seat there to become Pope officially. The Gothic baldacchino dates from the 14C. The domed octagonal baptistry dates from Constantine's time (432 AD) and is well worth viewing.
roma.katolsk.no/giovannilaterano.htm
SCALA SANCTA AND SANCTA SANCTORUM (Sacred Steps), Piazza di San Giovanni in Laterano, 14. 630a-1150a, 330p-645p (Oct-Mar 3p-645p) daily.
Located across the piazza from S. Giovanni in Laterano, in a building that houses two surviving parts of the old Lateran Palace. One is the pope's private chapel (Sancta Sanctorum) and the other is the Holy Staircase (Scala Santa).
The 28 steps, said to be those that Christ ascended in Pontius Pilate's house during his trial, were brought from Jerusalem by St. Helena in approximately 325 A.D. When the Lateran Palace was destroyed in the late 16th century, Pope Sixtus V had the steps moved to their present site. No foot may touch the holy steps, so they are covered by wooden boards. They may be climbed but only on your knees, a penance that is performed especially on Good Friday. However, both the left and right side of the sacred steps are staircases you can go up to see the chapels above. Other highlights of this building include the sculpture, Ecce Homo, by Giosue Meli in 1874.
The Scala Santa lead to the Chapel of St. Lawrence, or Sancta Sanctorum, built by Pope Nicholas III in 1278. This chapel contains many important relics, the most precious being an image of Jesus -- the Acheiropoeton, or "picture painted without hands", said to be the work of St. Luke, assisted by an angel. The image was taken on procession in medieval times to ward off plagues.
The church was included in the pilgrims' itinerary of Roman churches, and later became a Jubilee basilica. St Philip Neri included it in his list of seven churches that should be visited by pilgrims.
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/steps.htm
www.stuardtclarkesrome.com/nail.htm
MUSEO STORICO DEL VATICANO.
THEN WALK TO VIALE CARLO FELICE AND HEAD EAST PARALLEL TO A STRETCH OF THE AURELIAN WALLS TO PIAZZA DI SANTA CROCE IN GERUSALEMME
CHURCH OF SANTA CROCE IN GERUSALEMME AND RELICS OF THE CROSS
It was consecrated in about 325, in an older building that was rebuilt to house the Passion Relics brought to Rome by St Helena. The floor was packed with soil from the Holy Land. It was at first known as the Basilica of Helena or Basilica Sessoriana (after the imperial palace that the site belonged to), but the official name was Hierusalem. The present name was given to it in the Middle Ages
The façade is from the 18th century, in the Baroque style. If you walk around the church, it is still possible to see the original Roman masonry in some places. you can also see the ruins of a medieval cloister adjacent to the church.
roma.katolsk.no/crocegeru...images.htm
roma.katolsk.no/crocegerusalemme.htm
FINISH
WALK TO PORTA SAN GIOVANNI AND TAKE THE METRO BACK
Jan 7th, 2006, 07:21 AM
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I love your post. A walk from church to church to church sounds enchanting.
Now I must say that I've only been to Rome once in the 70's and have never been tempted to return (so shoot me). However, if anything can lure me back, it would be the Cavallina Angel in Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. Have you been there? or is it on your list for a future walk? J.
Now I must say that I've only been to Rome once in the 70's and have never been tempted to return (so shoot me). However, if anything can lure me back, it would be the Cavallina Angel in Santa Cecilia in Trastevere. Have you been there? or is it on your list for a future walk? J.
Jan 7th, 2006, 10:45 AM
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Jan 7th, 2006, 11:37 AM
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If I remember correctly we took the bus to the catacombs fromt the street near the metro station. Check on a Michelin map that has bus route numbers.
Also if one isn't able or inclined to do the walk, the 118 bus (looks like half a bus) goes right past or very near San Pietro and San Clemente.
Also if one isn't able or inclined to do the walk, the 118 bus (looks like half a bus) goes right past or very near San Pietro and San Clemente.
Jan 7th, 2006, 08:17 PM
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Hi Degas,
Great walk.
We did this in the opposite direction (San Giovanni in Laterano back to the forum, with a stop near the coliseum for a picnic on a park bench in Colle Oppio.
When we reached the forum, we stopped to visit the Carcere Mamertinium, well worth the visit and easy to miss if you're not looking for it. Maybe you'll include it on one of your other walks?
I would emphasize the bapistry of San Giovanni. It is a beautiful and peaceful place with (heavily restored) but impressive mosaics. Would be a shame to have walked all the way there and to miss it.
Thanks for the detailed descriptions!
Great walk.
We did this in the opposite direction (San Giovanni in Laterano back to the forum, with a stop near the coliseum for a picnic on a park bench in Colle Oppio.
When we reached the forum, we stopped to visit the Carcere Mamertinium, well worth the visit and easy to miss if you're not looking for it. Maybe you'll include it on one of your other walks?
I would emphasize the bapistry of San Giovanni. It is a beautiful and peaceful place with (heavily restored) but impressive mosaics. Would be a shame to have walked all the way there and to miss it.
Thanks for the detailed descriptions!
Jan 7th, 2006, 09:02 PM
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Great post!
I've done a very similar walk.
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme has the richest collection of relics from the Passion, including, among others, pieces from the True Cross, one of its nails, a fragment of the INRI, thorns from the crown, and a piece of the sponge that was held up to Him.
The area all around St John Lateran has a multitude of tavola caldas and small restaurants frequented by locals. You need not walk for more than a few blocks in any direction to get away from the tourist hordes.
The big problem with Rome is... so many churches...so little time.
I've done a very similar walk.
Santa Croce in Gerusalemme has the richest collection of relics from the Passion, including, among others, pieces from the True Cross, one of its nails, a fragment of the INRI, thorns from the crown, and a piece of the sponge that was held up to Him.
The area all around St John Lateran has a multitude of tavola caldas and small restaurants frequented by locals. You need not walk for more than a few blocks in any direction to get away from the tourist hordes.
The big problem with Rome is... so many churches...so little time.
Jan 7th, 2006, 09:29 PM
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A great book on Roman Churches is called something like
A Catholic's Guide to Rome: Discovering the Soul of the Eternal City by Frank Korn. I bought it at Borders, and found it easily just now on Amazon.
Don't be put off by the title if you are not Catholic. It's just that he focuses more on the history of the churches, than their artistic merit. (He focuses less on the Renaissance churches than on the ancient ones.) It did not feel real preachy to me although he obviously has reverence/affection for these old buildings. He focuses more on the ancient ones, and will discuss, this is where Saint Dominic lived (Santa Sabina, I think), etc. Also a really nice section on what the old St. Peter's would have looked like.
One church I discovered from this book was Santa Prassede near St. Maria Maggiore and I would have liked to also visited Santa Pudenziana. The author explains how both saints were friends with St. Peter and their father hosted Peter at his home.
A Catholic's Guide to Rome: Discovering the Soul of the Eternal City by Frank Korn. I bought it at Borders, and found it easily just now on Amazon.
Don't be put off by the title if you are not Catholic. It's just that he focuses more on the history of the churches, than their artistic merit. (He focuses less on the Renaissance churches than on the ancient ones.) It did not feel real preachy to me although he obviously has reverence/affection for these old buildings. He focuses more on the ancient ones, and will discuss, this is where Saint Dominic lived (Santa Sabina, I think), etc. Also a really nice section on what the old St. Peter's would have looked like.
One church I discovered from this book was Santa Prassede near St. Maria Maggiore and I would have liked to also visited Santa Pudenziana. The author explains how both saints were friends with St. Peter and their father hosted Peter at his home.
Jan 8th, 2006, 02:32 PM
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Hi degas, I've been following both of your Rome walks. They are very good and alot easier to follow than juggling a map and a guidebook while walking 
.
Re: The Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano.
It's the 218 bus which takes you directly to the Catacombs of St. Domitilla. From there it's a 10min walk to the Catacombs of St. Calixtus and then another 10min walk to the Catacombs of San Sebastiano.
Or go to the S. Giovanni Metro Station and follow these directions.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34591548
And if I could add this about the S. Giovanni in Laterano Church.
This five-aisled Church will gave you an idea of what the older ruined Basilicas (esp the Basilica Julia) in the Roman Forum were once like.
The large (5.9m) bronze doors which serve as the main entrance to the Church were originally the front doors of the Curia Julia (the Senate bldg in the Roman Forum).
They were removed and installed here in 1660 by Pope Alexander VII using the architect Borromini.
When the doors were being fitted to the Church a coin of Domitian (81-96AD) was found deep within the door. The Curia had been restored by Domitian after a fire. Most sources claim these doors were from the Diocletian rebuild after the 283AD fire but this coin seems to disprove that IMO. Perhaps these *are* the original 29BC doors that have just been restored after each fire? If not, they at least seem to date back to Domitian?
By Law these doors were always open when the Senate was in session.
The Eqyptian oblisk in the church's piazza was brought to Rome in 357AD by Constantine's son Constantius II. The oblisk was erected in the middle of the spina of the Circus Maximus. It was found in 1587 and placed here in 1588, it's the tallest oblisk in existance today.
Regards, Walter
.Re: The Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano.
It's the 218 bus which takes you directly to the Catacombs of St. Domitilla. From there it's a 10min walk to the Catacombs of St. Calixtus and then another 10min walk to the Catacombs of San Sebastiano.
Or go to the S. Giovanni Metro Station and follow these directions.
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34591548
And if I could add this about the S. Giovanni in Laterano Church.
This five-aisled Church will gave you an idea of what the older ruined Basilicas (esp the Basilica Julia) in the Roman Forum were once like.
The large (5.9m) bronze doors which serve as the main entrance to the Church were originally the front doors of the Curia Julia (the Senate bldg in the Roman Forum).
They were removed and installed here in 1660 by Pope Alexander VII using the architect Borromini.
When the doors were being fitted to the Church a coin of Domitian (81-96AD) was found deep within the door. The Curia had been restored by Domitian after a fire. Most sources claim these doors were from the Diocletian rebuild after the 283AD fire but this coin seems to disprove that IMO. Perhaps these *are* the original 29BC doors that have just been restored after each fire? If not, they at least seem to date back to Domitian?
By Law these doors were always open when the Senate was in session.
The Eqyptian oblisk in the church's piazza was brought to Rome in 357AD by Constantine's son Constantius II. The oblisk was erected in the middle of the spina of the Circus Maximus. It was found in 1587 and placed here in 1588, it's the tallest oblisk in existance today.
Regards, Walter
Jan 8th, 2006, 02:50 PM
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The cloister of San Giovanni in Laterano should not be missed (from the last chapel at the end of the left aisle).
Its twin columns and frieze with mosaics in the Cosmati style are - or should I say, were - a jewel.
Between the time that I first saw them, in 1966, and when I saw them again, in 2002, more than half of the mosaic stones had been pried out by tourists as "souvenirs."
"Quod non fecunt barbari, fecunt turisti" (freely adapted from the saying about the Barberini).
"What the barbarians did not do, the tourists did."
Its twin columns and frieze with mosaics in the Cosmati style are - or should I say, were - a jewel.
Between the time that I first saw them, in 1966, and when I saw them again, in 2002, more than half of the mosaic stones had been pried out by tourists as "souvenirs."
"Quod non fecunt barbari, fecunt turisti" (freely adapted from the saying about the Barberini).
"What the barbarians did not do, the tourists did."
