I think a couple of hours is plenty for touring the Mesquita. We went on a Sunday and the area around the Mesquita was very crowded. I was terrified that all of a sudden these people were going to flee the restaurants and mob the ticketbox, so I stood in front of it for some time before it opened. Turns out the crowd was locals enjoying Sunday in Cordoba and had no interest in the Mesquita. I felt really stupid for wasting time ensuring my place at the head of a nonexistent line. I don't have to warn you to have lunch reservations! We didn't make train reservations in advance.

Do post your restaurant list. All my recommendations all too old to be useful. Time to go back to Seville.

I found Cordoba to have many other neat old chruches and monasteries, abbeys, etc - explore the warren of narrow lanes around the old mosque and the eastern part of town as well. Plan to spend the whole day there and still not have enough time to see and do all you want.

I had a railpass so just had to pay the supplement on AVE high-speed trains - I believe there are also local trains with pretty much a flat fare - AVE trains can have sizeable discounts for booking even a day in advance I believe if seats in that fare category remain. But you should always be able to get on trains if that is a worry.

Maybe check these superb sites for more on Spanish AVE and other trains - www.renfe.com - official Spanish Railways sites with all the prices - and www.seat61.com; www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com - may have better current info on those trains.

Trains take only 45 minutes each way and there seem to only be high-speed trains on the route with 'Global fares' meaning a fare structure of varying pricing so the earlier you book you can get one of the limited in number discounted tickets.

I suppose there are also many buses between the two cities that should be much cheaper but slower than the up to nearly 200 mph trains blowing between them.

So even in Spain buy your tickets a day or so ahead if possible or www.renfe.com is worth a try to do your own booking but many folks have tons of problems with that site actually working for them.

Thanks, Pq! I did check the schedules and there is a tremendous variation in the pricing between the various trains. I found one slow train for about 12 euro, and one of the AVEs for more than 50 euro. Both fares are one way. Given that the trip is so short, I would not mind taking the slowest train, which takes about 75 minutes or so. Unfortunately, I cannot book RENFE trains in advance from home, but will buy my tickets as soon as I arrive in Sevilla, which is 4 days before my planned trip to Cordoba.

Marija:

Here is the preliminary list for Seville; it appears that tapas are the way to go, instead of sit-down dinners, so most of these are for tapas and, therefore, cannot be booked in advance:



Azotea

Az-Zait

Zelai

Becerrita

Casablanca

PuraTasca

Vineria San Telmo (open Sunday dinner)

Enrique Becerra (had a good meal here years ago; will try thir tapas this time)

JayLu (seafood restaurant)

Salvador Rojo

Possible: Gastromium and Abantal, both for full meals, not tapas and therefore, I probably will not have time to try

I am going to Cordoba for the day from Seville and was able to book my tickets on Renfe today. The trip will take 44 minutes compared to almost 2 hours by bus! I live in the states and was in total disbelief that I actually purchased them since I had been unable to do this previously. YAY!

Eks, thanks for the list. We will be in Sevilla for 3 nights, one being a Sunday. Was curious if most places are closed Sunday (are they?) so look like Vineria is our choice. Is that tapas or a dinner? What time are tapas taken? is that usually your dinner then?
Argmom, are we now able to book on renfe as i also live in the states? i need to book a train from Madrid to Sevilla and back but thought i could not do from the states...

Unfortunately, I cannot book RENFE trains in advance from home, but will buy my tickets as soon as I arrive in Sevilla, which is 4 days before my planned trip to Cordoba.>

I think if taking the slow train there are little or no savings buying ahead - to me the only reason to do so as these tickets will always IMe be available on the day of travel. For that difference in price I'd take the slow train as well.

plambers: I had tried (in vain) to book tickets from Mardrid to Seville about 2-3 weeks ago. I attempted at least 15 times over the course of a few days trying every tip I read about. Finally, I skyped with my daughter (who is in Spain) and she was able to do it from her computer (using the same american credit card!) Then, on Monday I tried and on the very first time, I was able to book tickets from Seville round trip to Cordoba for the day. The cost difference is quite substantial when buying multiple tickets not to mention 1/2 the time saved over a bus trip. I'm not sure what the difference was but I did it! GoOD LUCK. (I did use the spanish page without translation)

You can make reservations at Vineria San Telmo. Ate there twice in the 3 days I was in Sevilla (asked the hotel concierge to make the reservations).

Im jealous! Enjoy

You can check their menu here: http://www.vineriasantelmo.com/index.php/en/our-tapas

Tapas bars:

Las Golondrinas in Triana, amazing

Avoid Bar Giralda like the plague, it's digusting and vile.

Have you seen this blog?
http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

The author lives in Sevilla. Have a great time!

Thanks, I've been consulting that blog for weeks now and found it very informative.


We are in Sevilla now and all I can say is that the tapas here deserve their exalted reputation.
Combine that with the warm welcome from everyone we meet, and we are over the top!

Thanks, I've been consulting that blog for weeks now and found it very informative.


We are in Sevilla now and all I can say is that the tapas here deserve their exalted reputation.
Combine that with the warm welcome from everyone we meet, and we are over the top!

Great--have fun and eat well! Please do a report (I know you will). I am thinking about Andalusia for this Christmas or the next.

Eks - go to ristorante San Marco. A former old Arab bathhouse in Santa Cruz. Beautiful white stone and guitar music. If you get a starter be sure to get one to share as the portions are huge.
The bullring tour is very interesting.
Lucky you. We loved Sevilla.

So far it seems as if all we are doing is rolling from one eating spot to the next! Not only is the food incredibly inventive and well-executed, but I cannot remember encountering such value with regard to quality and price. Last night we ate ourselves under the table during a multi-course, sit-down dinner for less than 40 euro for both of us. (only one drink apiece) The restaurant, one of several that I would highly recommend, is the miniscule PuraTasca, in Triana. Lovely staff, too.

I should have mentioned above that, alas, it is now Sunday late morning and the appropriate trains to Cordoba have long departed. Perhaps if this apartment were not so gorgeous and cozy, not to mention perfectly located, we would have more motivation to get ourselves out and about early in the morning! The Mesquita will have to wait until the next visit, since we have lunch reservations here in Sevilla in a few hours.

My highest recommendation:



http://www.vrbo.com/282848

Pastora Galván dances at Casa de la Memória tonight. Voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics.

Often a second performance at 22.30 when she's on.

Have some excellent days!

Thanks, Kimhe.

We are leaving just now for the walk from "our" apartment to the theatre!

I bought the tickets two days ago.

Very excited! This has been an enchanting visit so far, despite some rainy weather the first few days.

EK, am starting to plan my meals for Sevilla next May-we are there Fri-Monday. Please send your comments on meals asap! thanks

I'm jealous yet happy for you. Where is your apt. and how did you find it? Do tell! I'd like to rent an apt. for my next trip.

I cannot say enough about this duplex apartment. We had high expectations, given the reviews, and these were surpassed. The location is perfect and it was totally quiet. Every last detail, from the hand-embroidered cotton sheets to the kitchen equipped with a battery of cookware (glass-topped induction stove) and utensils and tableware of high quality, to the upstairs master suite witih spacious bathroom, piped in music and candles in place, and both glass-enclosed shower and jacuzzi tub, two terraces... I could go on and on. It was not inexpensive, but I thought the value was excellent. There is wireless and a number of English-language tv channels. Note that it is on the first floor, so there are steps to walk, and no elevator.


http://sevilla.spain-select.com/en_US/rent-apartments/casa-de-la-moneda


Plambers: Sevilla is a fantastic, and very reasonable eating city. I will definitely write up a report once I get the time. But the good thing is that you do not need to plan as much as in other cities, as the tapas bars are the place to go..this is the first city I've visited in a long while where I had no advance reservations for restaurants. It is also one of the least expensive eating cities I've been to in while. I will give full details, but keep in mind that there are the traditional eating places, and there are the newer "gastro tascas," run by young chefs, many out of the big-name restaurant sin Spain and elsewhere. You have to dig a bit to find the latter, but when you do.....wow!

Hello: We will be in Seville this year and I am thinking of renting from Spain Select. The apartment we are looking at is the San Jose III on Calle San Jose. Can you tell me about your experience with the company? Are the pictures and description of the apt. accurate? I am hesitant because I cannot find any reviews on Trip Advisor, Flipkey etc. I have had mixed experiences in the past with other companies that have the ability to make anything look good on the internet so I rely heavily on reviews. thank you

hi ek - that apartment looks great and i agree entirely about the tapas - definitely the way to go.

have you found your way up to the el rinconcillo yet?

http://www.elrinconcillo.es/

very old-fashioned but excellent tapas and sherry. we stayed just round the corner and loved it here, but there are several other tapas bars in the same area. a nice area for a tapas crawl.

hope your trip continues to be such a blast!

Hi Ann! Or should I say, Buon Giorno, Ann? Buenos Dias, Ann? All those things!

I'm back home in NYC now...we rode out the big storm in style in that apartment in Sevilla! We never did make it to el Rinconcillo--will have to put it o the list for next time-- but we did find incredible food in Sevilla. A lot has changed o the food front since my last stay there in 2003. But the city remains glorious. Inch for inch, this must be one of the most beautiful cities in the world..don't you agree?

I will write up a short report here soon....where are you off to next?

looking forward to your report.

we already have plans for Barcelona( again)in the spring and Seville in the fall.

But the city remains glorious. Inch for inch, this must be one of the most beautiful cities in the world..don't you agree?>>

2nd that, eck. we were lucky enough to be there in late september when there is a season of religious parades which was very interesting. what with that and the endless tapas tours we did [and the lovely Alcazar] we had a blast.

I'll look out for your trip report.

Looking forward to your report, eks. Please, don't delay!

Ekscrunchy, I guess you missed my reply! here it is again:

We will be in Seville this year and I am thinking of renting from Spain Select. The apartment we are looking at is the San Jose III on Calle San Jose. Can you tell me about your experience with the company? Are the pictures and description of the apt. accurate? I am hesitant because I cannot find any reviews on Trip Advisor, Flipkey etc. I have had mixed experiences in the past with other companies that have the ability to make anything look good on the internet so I rely heavily on reviews. thank you

Mike I am sorry I have not responded sooner.

I rented two apartments from Spain Select on this last trip: One in Madrid (Anunciacion) and one in Sevilla (Casa de la Moneda). While the Sevilla apartment was far and away the nicer of the two properties (and the more expensive), and while it was the owner of the apartment rather than an agency rep who greeted us in Sevilla, I would not hesitate to use Spain Select in the future. I felt that the photos of the two properties were accurate.

In the Madrid apartment, here were several very minor issues like mising light bulbs, and these were remedied almost immedately by the agency rep. The booking process is most professional and efficient, and they acept credit cards with no extra charge, which is unusual in my limited experience. Our security deposit was refunded just a day or two after checkout. And the agency allowed us to check in earlier than the stated time, at both apartments.

So yes, a thumbs up for Spain Select.

The apartment you are considering looks really lovely and I would not hesitate to book. The location is good, too.

I'm currently planning my own Spain adventure and am very eagerly awaiting your trip report. Welcome home and happy writing

EK, Sevilla is the first rung of our trip and then we are off to Madrid for 4 nights. So would you suggest that we stick to tapas for our Sevilla trip (no sit downs?) That seems fine to me. I am dying to hear about the gastro tapas places that you recommend.
It will be lovely not to reserve months in advance like we do in Paris!!

P: Yes, stick to the more casual bars, where you will have a choice of tapas, raciones, or half raciones. I would not plan on any sit down dinners. Most of these modern tapas bars, in fact all of the ones we ate at, have a few tables. The policies differ as to whether or not they take reservations and whether or not you can order tapas if you reserve a table. (Some demand that you stick to raciones if you book ahead and occupy the table, and we wanted to sample as many dishes as possible, so liked the tapas size).

If you do not mind sitting at the counter, and you do not mind arriving at opening time (which ranges from 7:30pm (very rare; Enrique Becerra, a good traditional place, is one that opens at that time) to 9pm) you will be almost assured of a space at the counter, and you might even score a table without having reserved in advance and therfore will not be confined to the larger dishes on the menu. We found that the crowds did not start pouring in until at least a half hour to an hour after opening time. . (If that is all not clear, let me know)

We made two reservations after arriving in the city (one for Saturday diner and one for Sunday lunch; I was concerned abut getting places at the counter) but even then, not totaly necessary if you follow the caveats above.

One more thing: Prices are very moderate in Sevilla. Hard to believe, but I do not think we ever paid more than 40e or so for both of us dinner. Granted, these were mostly tapas dinners, and we did not drink much, but even so, we ate and ate until we could not eat anymore. And then we went for pastries!

I promise that I will give you all the information far, far in advance of your own departure.. I ate at almost all of the places I listed above, and we returned twice to three of them. I will be very busy for the next two weeks or so (we are driving down south, to Florida) but after that, will write up a report. And I am happy to answer any and all questions before that time, so ask away!!