ekscrunchy

I am thinking of making this trip on a Sunday, later this month.

Should I plan to buy the train tickets a few days ahead of time, or can I buy them on the morning of departure?

I would like to leave Sevilla in the morning, walk around Cordoba for a couple of hours, then have an early lunch (thinking of El Churrasco, but would love other suggestions for places) and arrive at the Mesquita sometime close to their 2pm opening time.

How long should I allow to tour the Mesquita? Do you recommend hiring a guide?
Any other ideas for the day in Cordoba? What time should I plan on departing Sevilla, if I plan to take one of the fast trains?



Also: Please feel free to offer any suggestions on favorite tapas bars or restaurants in Sevilla. (I already have a list, and will post it if anyone is interested..)

Marija

I think a couple of hours is plenty for touring the Mesquita. We went on a Sunday and the area around the Mesquita was very crowded. I was terrified that all of a sudden these people were going to flee the restaurants and mob the ticketbox, so I stood in front of it for some time before it opened. Turns out the crowd was locals enjoying Sunday in Cordoba and had no interest in the Mesquita. I felt really stupid for wasting time ensuring my place at the head of a nonexistent line. I don't have to warn you to have lunch reservations! We didn't make train reservations in advance.

Do post your restaurant list. All my recommendations all too old to be useful. Time to go back to Seville.

PalenQ

I found Cordoba to have many other neat old chruches and monasteries, abbeys, etc - explore the warren of narrow lanes around the old mosque and the eastern part of town as well. Plan to spend the whole day there and still not have enough time to see and do all you want.

I had a railpass so just had to pay the supplement on AVE high-speed trains - I believe there are also local trains with pretty much a flat fare - AVE trains can have sizeable discounts for booking even a day in advance I believe if seats in that fare category remain. But you should always be able to get on trains if that is a worry.

Maybe check these superb sites for more on Spanish AVE and other trains - www.renfe.com - official Spanish Railways sites with all the prices - and www.seat61.com; www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com - may have better current info on those trains.

PalenQ

Trains take only 45 minutes each way and there seem to only be high-speed trains on the route with 'Global fares' meaning a fare structure of varying pricing so the earlier you book you can get one of the limited in number discounted tickets.

I suppose there are also many buses between the two cities that should be much cheaper but slower than the up to nearly 200 mph trains blowing between them.

So even in Spain buy your tickets a day or so ahead if possible or www.renfe.com is worth a try to do your own booking but many folks have tons of problems with that site actually working for them.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, Pq! I did check the schedules and there is a tremendous variation in the pricing between the various trains. I found one slow train for about 12 euro, and one of the AVEs for more than 50 euro. Both fares are one way. Given that the trip is so short, I would not mind taking the slowest train, which takes about 75 minutes or so. Unfortunately, I cannot book RENFE trains in advance from home, but will buy my tickets as soon as I arrive in Sevilla, which is 4 days before my planned trip to Cordoba.

Marija:

Here is the preliminary list for Seville; it appears that tapas are the way to go, instead of sit-down dinners, so most of these are for tapas and, therefore, cannot be booked in advance:



Azotea

Az-Zait

Zelai

Becerrita

Casablanca

PuraTasca

Vineria San Telmo (open Sunday dinner)

Enrique Becerra (had a good meal here years ago; will try thir tapas this time)

JayLu (seafood restaurant)

Salvador Rojo

Possible: Gastromium and Abantal, both for full meals, not tapas and therefore, I probably will not have time to try

argmom

I am going to Cordoba for the day from Seville and was able to book my tickets on Renfe today. The trip will take 44 minutes compared to almost 2 hours by bus! I live in the states and was in total disbelief that I actually purchased them since I had been unable to do this previously. YAY!

plambers

Eks, thanks for the list. We will be in Sevilla for 3 nights, one being a Sunday. Was curious if most places are closed Sunday (are they?) so look like Vineria is our choice. Is that tapas or a dinner? What time are tapas taken? is that usually your dinner then?
Argmom, are we now able to book on renfe as i also live in the states? i need to book a train from Madrid to Sevilla and back but thought i could not do from the states...

PalenQ

Unfortunately, I cannot book RENFE trains in advance from home, but will buy my tickets as soon as I arrive in Sevilla, which is 4 days before my planned trip to Cordoba.>

I think if taking the slow train there are little or no savings buying ahead - to me the only reason to do so as these tickets will always IMe be available on the day of travel. For that difference in price I'd take the slow train as well.

argmom

plambers: I had tried (in vain) to book tickets from Mardrid to Seville about 2-3 weeks ago. I attempted at least 15 times over the course of a few days trying every tip I read about. Finally, I skyped with my daughter (who is in Spain) and she was able to do it from her computer (using the same american credit card!) Then, on Monday I tried and on the very first time, I was able to book tickets from Seville round trip to Cordoba for the day. The cost difference is quite substantial when buying multiple tickets not to mention 1/2 the time saved over a bus trip. I'm not sure what the difference was but I did it! GoOD LUCK. (I did use the spanish page without translation)

jomagpie

You can make reservations at Vineria San Telmo. Ate there twice in the 3 days I was in Sevilla (asked the hotel concierge to make the reservations).

Im jealous! Enjoy

jomagpie

You can check their menu here: http://www.vineriasantelmo.com/index.php/en/our-tapas

pgriffin

Tapas bars:

Las Golondrinas in Triana, amazing

Avoid Bar Giralda like the plague, it's digusting and vile.

rialtogrl

Have you seen this blog?
http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/

The author lives in Sevilla. Have a great time!

ekscrunchy

Thanks, I've been consulting that blog for weeks now and found it very informative.


We are in Sevilla now and all I can say is that the tapas here deserve their exalted reputation.
Combine that with the warm welcome from everyone we meet, and we are over the top!

ekscrunchy

Thanks, I've been consulting that blog for weeks now and found it very informative.


We are in Sevilla now and all I can say is that the tapas here deserve their exalted reputation.
Combine that with the warm welcome from everyone we meet, and we are over the top!

Leely2

Great--have fun and eat well! Please do a report (I know you will). I am thinking about Andalusia for this Christmas or the next.

Micheline

Eks - go to ristorante San Marco. A former old Arab bathhouse in Santa Cruz. Beautiful white stone and guitar music. If you get a starter be sure to get one to share as the portions are huge.
The bullring tour is very interesting.
Lucky you. We loved Sevilla.

ekscrunchy

So far it seems as if all we are doing is rolling from one eating spot to the next! Not only is the food incredibly inventive and well-executed, but I cannot remember encountering such value with regard to quality and price. Last night we ate ourselves under the table during a multi-course, sit-down dinner for less than 40 euro for both of us. (only one drink apiece) The restaurant, one of several that I would highly recommend, is the miniscule PuraTasca, in Triana. Lovely staff, too.

ekscrunchy

I should have mentioned above that, alas, it is now Sunday late morning and the appropriate trains to Cordoba have long departed. Perhaps if this apartment were not so gorgeous and cozy, not to mention perfectly located, we would have more motivation to get ourselves out and about early in the morning! The Mesquita will have to wait until the next visit, since we have lunch reservations here in Sevilla in a few hours.

My highest recommendation:



http://www.vrbo.com/282848

kimhe

Pastora Galván dances at Casa de la Memória tonight. Voted best female flamenco dancer 2010 by Spanish critics.

Often a second performance at 22.30 when she's on.

Have some excellent days!