My mother and I are headed to Scotland together at the end of July. (Probably a bit of a stupid time of year, but it's the only time I can go.) Our in-country transportation is a sticking point, as I used to work as a bus tour guide and I'm NOT interested in sitting on a coach on my vacation. I'll feel like I'm working, and I just like more privacy and flexibility.
However, apparently there's a little discord at home over the issue of whether Mom and I will kill ourselves driving on the 'wrong' side of winding Highland roads.
So, to those of you who know Scotland, what advice? I'm a confident enough driver and my Mom's a road warrior, at least on this side of the pond. Are there tips and tricks? Places we should be sure to stay away from? Or should we cave in and go with the herd? What about alternatives (trains, or even doing some cycling)?
Thanks for any help in quelling family strife!
- Quicksilver -
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Dad thinks Mom & daughter will kill themselves driving in Scotland. Is he right?
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Well it's your life
We did it 7 years ago - two weeks in Scotland, including Edinburgh, St. Andrews, Aberdeen, Inverness and all points in between.
Once I got over the terror of starting out sitting on the "wrong" side of the car, driving on the "wrong" side of the road, going through my first rotary (I lost count of how many times before I finally figured which exit to take), it was smooth sailing. But do take care - in my opinion the Scots drive like madmen, passing on hills and curves, their major highways not quite as expansive as US interstates, some roads VERY narrow. Also when driving in the Highlands on small roads, look out for the sheep (you may not see any people but you will see sheep).
Have fun - you can do it!
KC
Depending on where you are, there might not be a "wrong side". A lot of the windingest Highlands roads are single-track. When two vehicles meet, you both kind of edge over the side as you pass at 1 mph, or whoever's closest to one backs up to a turnout (usually very frequent). It's not a big deal, as no one is going very fast, unless a coach comes along.<br>
On more regular roads, just pay attention when you turn to turn into the correct lane, i.e. nearside lane turning left, not right. And watch the left edge of your lane; your natural tendency is going to be to crawl up the curb, as your body is situated in a different place with respect to the lane. Not terribly difficult once you get the hang of it, though the roundabouts can be a bit stressful (there's one every fifty feet, it seems).<br>
It's easy as pie. However, my wife won't let me do it anymore! Something about the constant swearing....
I remember well my first day driving in the UK. Being on the 'wrong' side of the road, I kept hitting bushes on the passenger's side. My passenger spent hours flinching as I made my way from LHR to Cornwall. After the first day it was less of a problem.
Try not to make any 'instinct' moves as you always have to remember which side you're driving on and that a right turn can be deadly, if you're not thinking.
The good news is that the further north you go in Scotland, the less traffic there is.
It took me a while to figure out what the sign "no undertaking" meant, it's still pretty funny.
You may bruise your ego now and then, but I would say go for it.
Try Scone Castle, a fun, small castle that is the origin of Boot Hill.
It reminds me of the time my (then) 19 year old girlfriend went to Europe for the summer and I made her take salt tablets, just in case.
Go for it and tell 'Dad' that it will be all right, just like riding a bicycle.
Rastaguytoday, what does "the origin of Boot Hill" mean?
It will definitely help if there are the two of you paying close attention at first -- one to drive and the other to navigate. If you are a good driver at home there's no reason to think you can't manage. I wouldn't, however try to drive right after landing as I think jet lag would make the situation much worse.
Have a great trip!
I loved Scone Palace.
Remember to orient yourself in the middle of the road - just like when you are driving on the right side of the road.
Teach your mom - the passenger - to have a code word for when you are getting too close to her side of the road, which will be your tendency. If she can yell "bushes" or something like that to give you a signal it is much better than the uncontrolled shriek or OH NO or the sharply inhaled breath that you will get otherwise.
Anyway, the Brits all manage this and you can too. Nobody counts the number of times yo go around the roundabouts.
tell your Dad he is being a wuss! Driving in Scotland is a piece of cake compared to many places in the States EVEN being on the "wrong" side of the road.
The only two main issues:
1) don't drive on your first day. Jet lag can be a REAL peril. So maybe spend the first couple of days in Edinburgh w/o a car (no one needs/wants a car in the city). Then pick up a car after you are well rested and you'll have no worries.
2) if you are going to any of the major cities (Edinburgh, Glasgow, Aberdeen) it is easier to get around by public transport so plan accordingly.
Otherwise - the traffic is generally light, the drivers are very polite, and the roads are in good repair. Have a great time and your Dad will be a jealous so and so when you get back home.
(I am from California and MUCH prefer driving in Scotland to most of the highways in CA)
My husband & I drove in Scotland during a 2 week vacation there several years ago - including in Edinburgh at Festival time. I found crossing streets on foot more disconcerting than driving on the opposite side of the road. (Just a reminder: when you are crossing the road - LOOK RIGHT!)
However, the 'B' roads are mainly small one-lane roads and even the 'A' roads in the country can be much more narrow than any roads I have ever seen in the US. And because of the many, many stone walls that are right up against the road - no shoulders at all - they seem even smaller.
Take your time and drive at the speed you are comfortable with. Don't worry the Scots will pass you if you aren't going fast enough. Once we got over the shock of feeling like we were going to hit every bush on the side of the road, we had a great time driving. If you are confident, go for it!!
~Lisa
quicksilver, the only place I was glad NOT to drive on our trip to Scotland was Edinburgh (and I felt the same way when we went to Ireland several years ago -- I was happy not to drive in Dublin but everywhere else was OK). We used a park-and-ride to avoid the city traffic. All the advice here is good, I think. I would add one thing -- even on the two-lane roads there seem to be lots of places to pull over and let someone pass -- keep your eyes open for those places and let the locals blaze past you. (And they will.) Also, be prepared that, in some places, the driver might not be able to appreciate the scenery while you're moving. Have a great trip!
A point that many people fail to make about turning right is that traffic coming from your left and turning into the road you are leaving will cross in front of you, not pass down your left side.
There are fewer single track roads with passing places than there used to be.
If you are driving fairly slowly, then you might find yourself at the head of a procession.
If you notice that you are holding people up, then just nip into a passing place and let them go by.
Several touristy places in Scotland actually have large notices in several languages at the exits warning you to keep left.
Since Brits on the whole manage to negotiate the US, coping not only with being on the wrong side of the road, and the wrong side of the car but also with having no gear stick, and traffic lights in weird places, I see no reason why an American can't cope with driving in the UK.
Don't forget that things have different names over here. We told an American child to "stay on the pavement", and he immediately stepped into the road.
I am British, but have successfully driven a 32 foot American RV, complete with towed car, for many miles through the mountain states. There were a few white faces and sweaty palms at times, however.
"I want to die like my father, peacefully in his sleep, not screaming in terror like his passengers."
Rental cars in Europe tend to be more manual than automatic. Just make sure all drivers are comfortable with stick shifts. Get a good map (or direction via AA or RAC websites), familiarise yourself with British motoring vocabulary (eg roundabout as opposed to rotary) and the price of petrol (it's per litre, not per gallon).
Roads will be narrow, so don't expect you can cover 60miles an hour. It can be as slow as 30-40 miles per hour once you're off dual-carriage ways.
I'm sorry, but you can't be a good driver if you were raised in the US. It's just too easy. It's like trying to become a good golfer on a minature golf course.
I've never been to Scotland but I can tell you that I still talk about my driving "experience" in Ireland. I give the Irish credit, they are great drivers. Curved roads less than the width of my driveway! I pulled in the ditch a lot.
I'll give you two pieces of advice. Learn to swear-ALOT. If you don't your head may explode. Also, put the hubcaps
in your trunk before you start driving.
During the first day you'll hit a lot of curbs and those hubcaps just take off into the fields like frisbees.
We drove many miles throughout Scotland and DH always gets a manual. We found driving in Scotland easier than England or Ireland and experienced no traffic until we reached Edinburgh where we dropped the car at the airport and even at that point it was quite easy. We found the single track roads to be lightly traveled and drivers courteous. Have a great trip.
I thought driving on the opposite side of the road was going to be the hard part, but it was a piece of cake. I had a hard time determining how close I was to the side of the road or curb on the left side. Maybe its just me.
"I'm sorry, but you can't be a good driver if you were raised in the US."
Dan, please get real or at least speak for yourself (LOL).
I do agree, however, that the hardest part might be to keep track of/judge where the left front bumper is although after driving in the UK several times I've found it much easier to do than at first.
I assume there will be one of the dreaded and feared roundabouts somewhere on this route; shouold we even bring that aspect of things up?
I honestly don't think they are nearly as bad as some here have made out.
I had no problems with roundabouts. I just went where the guy in front of me went. Eventually I found someone who was going the same place as me.
Actually the hardest roundabout I've ever encountered is outside Albany, NY.
My husband and I wish roundabouts would be implemented around here - we find them such a good idea. Sure, the first few will be interesting for you, but once you get the hang of them they really are efficient. The trickiest one we found in Scotland was a quadruple one (four one right after the other). But if all else fails, drive around it a few times until you are certain of the direction in which you should go.
It's been mentioned before, but this is a good explanation of how to use a roundabout There's a video and diagram
http://www.2pass.co.uk/roundabout.htm
That website also has a video showing you to cope with single track roads
http://www.2pass.co.uk/singletrackroads.htm
I've never seen a "no undertaking" sign.
Overtaking, on the other hand, means "passing" in yank.
And yes, that would be a good thing to understand. Preferably before you get behind the wheel.
To add my two cents, drving on the left side isn't too hard with the steering wheel on the right. I would, however, get an automatic transmission, just to reduce the variables. AT is certainly available in Britain but do reserve ahead. You might also consider GPS navigation, either in the car or a portable unit.
The hardest part is the narrow roads with no shoulders. Driving requires more attention than we Americans are used to; those stone walls, curbs and hedges are unforgiving.
Oh, and if you can start out on a freeway, it does make for an easier adjustment.
Finally you could do a nice trip by train, up to Inverness, down to Skye (with the last leg by bus or taxi), then return by ferry from Skye to Mallaig and the West Highland Line to Fort William and Glasgow.
Just want to add that the West Highland Line, especially the part from Fort William to Mallaig, is a famously scenic route. You can also drive this; it's called the Road to the Isles.
I have to do it the otherway around and drive in France on the wrong side down little roads with sheep.
Stick shift may be a problem but you can order automatic gear box.
I follow three principles
1) when you start off from the side of the road shout out which side you intend to drive on. If you get it wrong your mother can stop you (also for a few days after return to US
2) On roundabouts ask your passanger to point at the exist you need to take
3) When you come off the round about say which side you intend to stay on....
Finally watch out for tiredness and have a geat trip. I would hate to scotland in a bus
quicksilver, you have received some good advice, and I suppose you feel more confident about telling your dad that you will be fine.
Just a thought: if he proves to be right, at least you won't be there to hear him say that he told you so.
hi, QS,
what a great idea. I'm sure you'll have a great time, and improve your driving!
as a veteran of driving our UK car in France etc., you are already at an advantage as you will have a car that is the "right way round" - so long as the driver is in the middle of the road, not at the side, you can't go wrong.
usually, starting off in the morning is trouble free- it's when you've stopped during the day and then start off again, that problems generally occur. our kids had a song "always drive on the right hand side of the road" sung to the tune of "always look on the bright side of life", which helped!
regards, ann
OK, maybe we've just been lucky, but we've never had any problem getting an automatic transmission to drive in England or Scotland. Maybe it's because we needed a car for 4 adults and accompanying luggage (and one of the passengers is pretty tall), so we've always asked for a mid-size car.
Or maybe it's because I've always requested one specifically because the driver won't drive a manual shift.
These are very helpful responses--thank you, everyone. I'm now forming a counterproposal to the dreaded bus:

- Train, Glasgow --> Oban. HIRE CAR in Oban.
- Car, Oban --> Skye --> Inverness over the course of 3.5-4 days. DROP CAR in Inverness.
- Train, Inverness --> Edinburgh.
- Train, Edinburgh --> Glasgow.
Does that keep us mostly to not-so-busy roads? (I'll be fine dodging the sheep; we're rural folk ourselves...)
Thanks!
- Quicksilver -
whether that itinerary makes sense we need to know -- are you staying over in Glasgow, flying in and renting a car straight away, or going to Glasgow just to get the train to Oban?
If you are rested up I see no earthly reason to take a train to Oban to collect your car. GLA is not in the city but well to the west of Glasgow proper and right on the main road up along Loch Lomond and then over to Oban.
But in any case, w/ just 3 or 4 days I'd probably skip. I'd drive GLA > Loch Lomond > Glencoe > Skye > Plockton > Inverness > train to Edinburgh. Staying 2 nights on Skye and one night w/i maybe 20 miles of Inverness.
Sorry for the lack of itinerary details. The first day will be in Greenock, because the family apparently has roots there. I'm sure it would make more sense to go to Greenock by car and then just keep going, but I'm thinking of a day trip by train, instead. Clearly this is more about family compromise than optimal travel planning.
I guess my question, in short, is: is there a notable difference in the level of traffic when you get north of Oban?
If so, this detail will help me mollify my poor Dad. (He's usually more relaxed than this, but I hear that some friend-of-a-friend has been telling him Scottish driving horror stories. They sound exaggerated to me.)
Thanks again, everyone.
Wow, it's like I'm a newbie all over again. Posted while I was still editing.
Last message was supposed to mention that we're flying in to Glasgow. Original plan would have been all by car (Day 1 Glasgow --> Greenock --> Dunoon, Day 2 Dunoon --> For William, then the following days in the Highlands, Inverness, and Edinburgh.) Cheers!
fnarf999,
Boot Hill (Moot Hill) goes back to the days of Scottish kings (from what I remember of my visit there).
Scone Palace is where the Scottish Kings were crowned. There was a special coronation stone underneath the coronation chair. That stone is now used by the Kings / Queens of England and sent to Westminster for a coronation.
Each of the local lords kept dirt from their own lands in their boots when they went to Scone Palace. To show allegiance to the King, each lord would empty his boot at Scone Palace. There now is a mound named after the soil deposited there, hence Boot Hill.
Jansi has got it exactly right. Don't try to drive when jetlagged and tired. Traffic in Scotland is a lot better than in England.
If you normally drive an automatic, don't try to drive a car with gears - not a good idea.
Carolena
Oops - I dropped part of my post. Should have been ". . . , w/ just 3 or 4 days I'd probably skip Oban"
W/ your new info - Greenock is quite close to GLA. So I'd pick up the car on arrival and drive just as far as Greenock. Spend the night in that area and do a bit of "ancester hunting" and get over the jet lag.
Then the next day (well rested by then) head across Erskine Bridge, up the west shore of Loch Lomond, through Glencoe and on to Skye. You could break that journey somewhere between Glencoe and Glenfinnan but it really isn't necessary. I'd press on to Skye. It will be daylight until quite late so you would have all day to get to Skye.
2 nights on Skye, then over the bridge at Kyle, through Plockton and wend your way towards I'ness. The the next day - drop the car and take the train to Edinburgh.
My sister and I have driven several times in England, Ireland, and Scotland. You will be fine. Stay alert and take your time. Put your mother in charge of the map reading. North of Oban is certainly more quiet, and driving from Glasgow to Oban is fine. You will love the freedom having your own car gives you. Driving in a foreign country is part of the adventure of travelling and since you do not sound like a reckless person I advise you to stick to your instinct and drive! You and your mom will have a great trip!
Having read all your helpful responses and done some more research, I think I've better grasped two separate issues:
#1: Easy terrain, but high traffic (We'll make a point of avoiding Edinburgh-area traffic, I think.)
#2: Low traffic, but challenging terrain.
I'd appreciate any additional, location-specific input on this second point.
For example, I have read that driving from Kishorn to the Applecross Peninsula via the Bealach na Ba is not for faint of heart--so, gorgeous views notwithstanding, I think we'd opt for the coastal route here.
Any similar tips on 'tricky spots' would be appreciated!
(I hope to spend most of our time in the Highlands/Skye, and I imagine that's where the terrain issue tends to arise.)
Thanks again, everyone.
Hi - I went to Scotland to visit my son last March. He was in college at Dalkeith at the time. I took a friend from work along with me as hubby couldn't go. I rented a car and told myself every night for 3 months that I could drive on the left hand side of the road until I believed it. We got to the airport and was upgraded to a brand new Mercedes! (automatic,I didn't want to mess with a stick - plus a navigation system which was a lifesaver alo) All I could think of was how horrible this new car was going to look after i hit every bush and mailbox in Scotland. After getting off the plane I did drive to Dalkeith and the castle where my son was staying, but then the next 2 days we rode the bus and toured Edinbough. Then we headed north to the highlands. We went to Plocton, over the bridge to Skye and all over Skye - mostly in the rain. I never had any problems whatsoever with the driving. I didn't see any terrain in Skye that was daunting - just absolutely breaktaking and gorgeous. It is important to have the person on the left hand side of the car help to navigate at first. My son was a big help although a couple of time he did yell in fright! I didn't like the round-abouts because I never could decide which spoke I was supposed to shoot out from! My husband kept calling my son every night and asking how my driving was. He was very surprised that I didn't kill us all - but when I returned the car to the airport, there was not one mark on it! Have fun - Patti
Everyone here seems to have given lots of great advice and I'm sure you'll have a wonderful time there! I would only add a few more little tidbits.
). His for me was "You might want to move over a bit...", said in a very laid-back voice (he's much calmer than I am, LOL! So I became our official driver while he navigated).
1. When driving the single-track country roads with the turnouts, the person who is planning to yield to the other car flashes their headlights briefly to alert the other person that it's OK for them to proceed. Then the person who goes first gives a little wave to the person who yielded to them as they go on by. Once we noticed the tradition and got the hang of it it was kinda fun! Sometimes if you time it right both of you will arrive at the turnout area simultaneously and just sort of sidle on by without anyone actually having to stop.
2. It may seem stupid to mention this, but don't use those passing turnouts as a convenient place to park while you take a scenic hike. Unless you really want people like me cursing you under their breath and taking your name in vain (ha, ha) because you're in the way when they want to pull over...
3. If there aren't any nearby turnouts and you have to use the shoulder (if there is one) to pass the car going the other way, go really slow and be careful that it's not a hidden ditch. We got stuck in one of those once, but the guy driving the tractor that we were passing by (as well as the guy in the car behind us) immediately helped us out of the ditch.
4. Drive the smallest car you feel comfortable driving -- not only do they get better mileage but they're easier to navigate (I'm used to driving an SUV back home but did just great in our tiny little car over there).
5. My code phrase for when my DH got too close to walls, bushes, etc. was a very strident "CLOSE! CLOSE!" (said with that hint of panic in my voice
I'm sure you'll do just fine and get used to it after the first day, I know we did -- even though we had a stick shift.
the person who is planning to yield to the other car flashes their headlights briefly to alert the other person that it's OK for them to proceed
Some do, but we should mention that the Highway Code does not approve and advises that the use of flashing should be restricted to warning other drivers of your presence.
The approved method is to use your left trafficator to indicate your intention, then to pull into the passing bay if it is on the left side of the road or to stop opposite it if it is on the right side of the road.
Definitely drive an automatic.
I've driven over 200.000Km with stick shift in continental Europe in my life, so I'm used to narrow roads and all, but in the UK I would only drive automatic.
In fact, I had enough trouble trying not to hit the bushes on the passenger side to worry about shifting gear with the "wrong" hand. Stay focused and think.
My 2 cents - get an automatic (one less thing to think about) and get a relatively "small car" and you will be fine. I have driven in England, Scotland and Ireland with no problems - although I definitely avoid the big cities as much as possible - drive in to the B & B and then take transit. If you are a confident driver, you shuld be fine. I found the drivers courteous for the most part. They drive quickly, but that's okay. Stay in the slow lane on the major roads and let them pass as they want. And study up on the rules of the roundabouts - there's a system! The only other part I had to think about was in towns where I was turning at intersections - I needed to remind myself which lane I was turning into.
Have fun - I love driving in the UK!
Alison
I appreciate that it's diff'rent strokes for diff'rent folks, but I think this is all overcomplicating it.
So long as you're not too tired you will drive easily anywhere you would drive at home. I hardly ever take a car into Edinburgh these days, not because it's hard to drive in, but because it's impossible to park in.
I love your first idea of going across to Dunoon and up through Cowal. But then, I love ferries.
hi ,quicksiver,
apropos the flashing lights and thanking the other driver by giving a quick wave, this is definitely not approved by the highawy Code, but everyone does it. In fact, here in Cornwall we are even more polite, and it is convention for the give-wayee to return the wave to the give-wayer. so we can always spot the emmets.
On the motorway, flashing lights behing you mean "get out of the way, I'm going faster than you."
on ordinary roads when used by other drivers coming towards you in a non-pulling in situation, it usually means "there's an obstruction ahead, look-out".
hope that's clear!!!
regards, ann
Quicksilver, I drove 1,600 miles all over England and Scotland with four other people in the car (including my sister who kept having hot flashes and demanding I turn on the air conditioner when the rest of us were just fine, thank you very much!)when we were there two years ago, and it was a piece of cake after the first day. Heed the previous warnings about having someone navigate, especially when approaching roundabouts. There are usually very detailed signs before the roundabout telling you which route to take, and although I was scared the first time or two, now I think they are super-efficient! We rented an automatic and it wasn't that much more expensive than a manual and I had no problem reserving one. Also, as mentioned before, be very cautious about how much you drive on the first day. I got a fair amount of sleep on the plane and only had 90 miles to drive, but couldn't manage more than about an hour before I had to stop and rest.
Relax and enjoy yourself! I'm counting the days until our next trip to Scotland - I can hardly wait!
Hi, again, quicksilver,
as a brit I never quite understand what the fuss is about roundabouts, but there's no disgrace in going round again if you miss the right exit - I did just that last weekend when driving in Gloucester, where I'd never been before, and no small children stood at the side of the road and laughed at me!
just relax - you'll be fine.
regards and good luck, ann
At the nearest roundabout to home it can be quicker to go round 'twice'. The right lane is right turn only and the left lane clogs - it's quicker to use the right lane and make 1.5 laps if going straight ahead.
My husband and I loved driving in Scotland. The two phrases that we used were
"The passenger is on the curb" which always got us on the correct side of the road without having to remember rights and lefts and
"Edge alert" which is our version of the 'bushes' or 'close, close'.
You and your mum will be fine - I found that because that because everyone has to concentrate a bit more on windy narrow roads, everybody does, rather then having their minds wander on wide straight north american roads!
hi, wasleys,
mind if I ask where this prime example of british road planning is? so i know to avoid it!
here in Cornwall we have an outbreak of double roundabouts - requiring the driver to look in at least 2 directions at once!
as with your local roundabout, Ok if you're a local, not so funny for teh tourists [of which we of course have very few!]
regards, ann
ann,
Scunthorpe. The system worked fine with two lanes on the ahead exit until some idiot put a cycle lane in which means there is only room for one lane now, so the right lane was marked for right turn only. This, of course, is not enforceable so many idiots take the right lane and bore straight ahead to push in.
A lot of cyclists dislike the lane since it gets debris in it beacuse the roads aren't swept and the lack of vehicles in the cycle lane doesn't help to keep it clear. Anyway half the local cyclists don't give a damn about the law and cycle on the footway.
Michael
It's been 20 years sinceI (the mother) met my daughter(doing her Junior year abroad in London) rented a car in Inverness. It was a stick shift and I hadn't driven same since I learned to drive in an army jeep (about 30 years younger). She was impressed that I got out of the parking lot! I must admit that after years of no shifting, I had to actually put my feet on the pedals to remember the clutch. After that, we were on our way and we covered the British Isles completly in the car. I will warn you that Scotland is very dark when it's dark and some of the roads aren't as wide as the alley behind my house...you get used to it. There are a lot more M and A roads, but the"yellow line"roads are filled with wonderful surprises. Take heart and have a fabuous time. What a beautiful country! We did use London as a base for train trips to York, Bath, and 1066 ountry. J