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Old Jun 21st, 2009, 10:57 AM
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Czech Republic: Day trip Cesky Krumlov

Has anyone any experience to share regarding day tours between Prague and Cesky Krumlov? Looks like it is 10 hours tho half of that is on the bus; castle tour and lunch included. Prices range from ~ $80 USD to ~ $115 USD for what appears to be the same deals. We're going at the end of August '09. Any insights would be appreciated - Kathleen.
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Old Jun 21st, 2009, 01:39 PM
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It takes about 3 hours to get from CK from Prague. This means you will spend 6 hours on the bus and about 4 hours actually in CK.

CK is very beautiful, but you won't have too much time to see it in 4 hours.

You could skip lunch and, whilst the other are eating, wander around on your own. The lunch is usually horrid anyway.

Thin, who has been to Cesky Krumlov
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Old Jun 22nd, 2009, 11:49 AM
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Thank you for this sensible advice. What's your suggestion re how much time to allot? Is a guide recommended, or can the same info be more or less garnered from the tourist office brochures? Talking to one person who's been there, seems like viewing the castle, old town area and river walk are the highlights. I know there's a good beer hall there, too. What is your thinking?

The train is almost $100 and likewise takes 6 hours, plus the schedule is not great. The bus has more options, is cheaper (something like $18 USD I think), and is a bit quicker.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2009, 04:54 PM
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Can you possibly stay overnight? We are renting a car and staying in CK for 2 nights in August. Seems like a lot of traveling for one day.
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Old Jun 22nd, 2009, 07:51 PM
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I am pretty sure the castle tour is lead by a guide; you don't just wander around on your own.

You should visit the castle and the baroque theatre.

I also advise renting a car and staying overnight.

If you decide not to go to CK because of time restraints, have you thought about visiting Terezin instead. I think it is only about an hour, if I remember correctly, from Prague.

Sylvia Whittman Tours is highly recommended for Jewish Prague.

Thin
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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 03:59 AM
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we did by ourselves...we loathe tours..and even more so after we did the peterhof bus tour in st petes...rush rush rush
we caught the early train from the main station in prague...around 620am one sunday very very cheaply...about 12 aud each!!!!!
we were in cesky by 10am
had a wander...some morning tea ...some afternoon tea...saw the castle took a million photos
and caught the train back at 3pm ..there was another one we couldve got at 5pm but we saw plenty
we got in around 730 and it was of course still light so we had some more time in prague..it was an absolute highlight and absolutely doable
the train conductor comes on and makes sure everyone knows when to stay on and when to get off and it is a pleasant enough journey through fields and some soviet block looking towns...babbling brooks and more trees than we have in our whole country lol
do it
definitely
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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 08:35 AM
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Lanejohan.....I have a question about the train to Cesky Krumlov.Does it go directly from Prague to CK, or do you need to change trains at some point en route?
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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 08:48 AM
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Rent a car and spend the night. From my trip last June:

"The Czech roads were great and, especially for a Southern Californian, the traffic was non-existent. In exactly two hours and twenty minutes (from Prague) we were driving over the bridge and parking in front of our home for the evening, the Hotel Konvice.

When I booked Hotel Konvice, the only space available was an apartment/suite with two bedrooms on the top floor. I had decided that since we would only be six days into the trip by the time we arrived, the four of us would still be on speaking terms, so I took a chance on it.

When we got up to the room, there was one large bedroom and one small bedroom. The larger room was appointed nicely and had a big bed with down comforters.

The smaller room contained two single beds. Kim and Mary volunteered to be Rob and Laura Petrie for the evening and sleep in the single beds.

Our balcony looked out onto the Krumlovský Zámek (Krumlov Castle). The bathroom was new and large, even by U.S. standards. It had a shower with a separate tub, and much to Tracy’s pleasure, fluffy towels. It would be our best bathroom of the trip, for what that is worth.

After depositing the luggage, we parked the car on the other side of town, but CK being a pretty small place, the walk back to the hotel was only about ten minutes. That walk confirmed what has been stated by so many; Cesky Krumlov is, to quote my friend Kim, “felony cute.”

The weather gods shone down upon us again this day, so we searched for a lunch spot outside and found a place by the name of U Dwau Marii. By coincidence (or perhaps fate), in English it translates to “At the Two Marys”!

“Wow, how about that Kim, now you have three Marys?” I said. I don’t believe he answered.

We sat at an outdoor table along the riverbank looking up at the castle. You could not draw up a better scenario than what we were experiencing…and it would just keep getting better.

Our waiter, decked out in peasant attire, explained some of the more interesting dishes on the menu, and we were about ready to embark on our first of what was to be two great Cesky Krumlov meals. Our lunch would be a feast that featured traditional, Bohemian cuisine that was popular during the middle ages. Since we are all middle aged, we felt this would be perfect.

Every dish was tasty from Kim’s trout to Mary and Tracy’s chicken with tarragon potatoes.

Since the beginning of our trip, we had marked down “Wow” dishes, and I was the lucky recipient this time. I ordered the “Old Bohemian Feast.” As I watched the ducks swimming on the river and people canoeing under beautiful, blue skies, I devoured roasted chicken with a millet and ham casserole. I really wanted to try the Žahour (sweet dumplings in a blueberry sauce), but my stomach said “no.”

We shed some of those calories on our walk up to the castle, which was turned over to the state in 1949. It was in beautiful condition, as were the four of us by now from all of our walking in Prague.

As we headed into the castle area, down in the moat surrounding it was a sight that might enthrall some, but to me, was a sad sight. There, on a very warm day, were Katrina, Maria and Kov, the castle brown bears, munching on some unidentifiable foodstuff. They have been there since 1986, which must be tough for them to bear.

The only method to tour the castle is with a guide (about $17 each), so we bought our tickets and wandered the grounds for a while before it started.

The tour lasts an hour, and, unfortunately, ours was lead by a young woman who came straight out of the movie “Invasion of The Body Snatchers.” There was no emotion as she stated the facts about the castle and warned us not to touch anything. She constantly reminded us that if we took pictures we would be turned into huge pods (ok, I made the last part up). Her voice never changed pitch for the entire hour.

In her defense, as it turned out, this was the only English she knew, because when someone asked her a question, she could only shrug her shoulders. Granted, she knows a lot more English than we know Czech, however I would think at a tourist sight like this, the castle could do a little better job in hiring.

As we walked through the castle, there were ominous signs for the future of Katrina, Maria and Kov. In many of the rooms, the floors were partially covered by bearskin rugs. I wanted to warn the three bears on the way out, but figured they didn’t understand English.

After the tour, Tracy said, “Hey, they have gardens here, too.” I had created a monster.

Tracy, Kim and Mary hiked up to the gardens, and after taking some photos for about ten minutes, I hiked up to meet them. They were nowhere to be found. Six days into the trip, and they were already trying to ditch me. It turned out they had just left the gardens by another exit, so the team was still intact.

I was the only fool to climb the 162 steps to the top of the tower (about $2). The last three flights were a little more precarious than I like, but I lived to tell the tale.

For the rest of the afternoon, we just walked around Cesky Krumlov. Had we had just a little more time, it would have been fun to canoe, raft or kayak on the river that weaves itself throughout CK.

Because of a post I had read on Fodor’s before we left, when we got to the main square I searched for a Chinese restaurant; not because I wanted to dine there, but because nearby was a set of stairs that I wanted to explore.

Sure enough, as I walked closer, there was the sign for Pivna KataKomby, and the door was ajar. I told Tracy that I would be right back and started to descend the dark, spiral staircase that lead to, well I didn’t know where I was headed.

At the bottom of the staircase there in front of me was another world. There was a beautiful bar with tables in one room and then I entered another room, and another, and another, all in a surreal, cave-like setting (the bears would have loved it). In the back, there was a large wood-burning pit where the restaurant’s grilled specialties are cooked.

As I neared the staircase to go back up, I heard a voice from above (no, not that one, it was Tracy). “Tom, are you ok?” she asked.

I told her I was more than ‘ok’ and that I had found the spot where I wanted to have dinner.

On the walk back to the hotel, we stopped by the Church of St. Vitus.

We decided on an early dinner, so Tracy and I made our way back to Pivni KataKomby a little before 7 p.m., with Kim and Mary joining us a short time later. We were seated next to the dumbwaiter, which for some might be vexing, but for us afforded the opportunity to get a closer glimpse of how a place like this functions.

Our two waitresses spoke no English, which just gave a more authentic feel to the restaurant. The grill was fired up in the back, and we were fired up to try some of the unique menu items.

Now, we are no foodies by any stretch, but as the evening progressed, we all realized we had stumbled upon something very special.

We shared an appetizer of crispy, fried bacon and onions that was delicious. It contained fried chunks of pork with white onions (al dente), seasoned with lots of black pepper. It was served with gherkins and salad.

I had ordered goulash soup, but it didn’t come, so it was on to the main courses, and every dish was plated so nicely that Kim took pictures of each culinary delight (you’ll have to wait for the blog to see them) before we started eating. As spectacular as they looked, they were even more terrific to consume.

I had the grilled skewer of chicken, pork and beef with fresh peppers and salad.

Mary had the specialty of the house, which was called a “Krumburger.” It was a huge hamburger patty that lay on a bed of fresh cole slaw. She also had a side dish of a baked potato with herbed crème fraîche.

Tracy ordered a pork tenderloin served “English-style.’ It came with asparagus, artichokes and peppers.

Kim’s grilled lemon chicken on a bed of arugula, peppers, tomato relish and grilled garlic bread was good, but his side dish, “gratin au potatoes,” garnered the evening’s “Wow” award.

These potatoes were absolutely amazing, and we all know because we all tried them. We figured there had to be about 50 thin layers of potatoes, with a touch of garlic and Parmesan cheese. It had a golden, crunchy top.

After we finished, I said, “Thank God they forgot the goulash soup. I can’t eat another thing.” As if on cue, our waitresses showed up with, you guessed it, my goulash soup. Being the consummate guest and a glutton for punishment (not to mention just a plain, old glutton), I ate all the soup and some of the rye bread, too.

All that food including five beers, one glass of red wine, two Campari, plus two bottles of 2005 Modry vino from Portugal (no driving tonight kids), came to 2,316 Kč., or about $150 plus tip.

As we ended our meal, two couples from Canada who were on a two-month holiday (and we thought we were slackers) stopped by the table and we chatted for quite some time. There was an easier exit than the way we had entered, which was fortunate due to our expanded waistlines.

When we wandered Horní Street (just doesn’t sound right, does it?), we heard a band blaring from the terrace of the Hotel Ruze. “Let’s check it out,” Mary said.

It seemed there was a wedding reception going on with free food and free booze for any interloper who stumbled in from out on the street. I looked at Kim. Kim looked at me, and we decided not to partake of the free goodies. Maturity does have its downside.

We could hear the band just as well from the bar located a short distance from the Ruze, so we made our way to the patio overlooking the river, and there were those friendly Canucks again.

As you could tell by our dinner choices, one more cocktail was more than enough for all in our group. Back at the hotel, we opened the door to our balcony and there was a stunning view of the Cesky Castle, a perfect ending to what was a perfectly great day."

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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 08:57 AM
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thanks for all the great info! pp
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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 08:59 AM
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I took one of those bus tours to CK and enjoyed it very much. We had more than four hours there (probably 5-6), and it didn't take 3 hrs to get there, as I recall--maybe 2.5. However, those bus tours cover about 11 hours total from departure to return. So if you leave around 9 am, you get back around 7-8 pm. I thought the price was very reasonable and it made it a lot easier than doing all that on your own. Also, the guide was superb and included some things just outside CK which we wouldn't have seen otherwise (to be honest, don't remember the name, but it was some nice church). We were on our own for several hours anyway on the tour I took, there wasn't any included lunch. You could eat lunch, of course, if you wanted in the free time frame, wherever you wishes. We had a special guide of the castle on the one I took, you don't just wander around, regardless.

No train goes directly from Prague to CK, you have to go through Ceske Budejovice. CK is extremely small and the train station isn't even near the main town area. I wouldn't even take the train from CB to CK, it's too slow, the bus is quicker and the bus station is closer to the town center, I believe. Doing it on your own is just a lot more complicated and time-consuming than a tour, I think, and you probably have less time available due to that. On those bus tours, you don't have to leave at the crack of dawn, either. I actually found it relaxing to take the bus tour and view the countryside that way, and it was pretty easy.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 09:05 AM
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I just returned from Prague and hired a private guide through Private-Prague-Guide.com. They come recommended by Fodor editor Doug Stallings (http://www.fodors.com/news/story_1152.html )and we were very, very happy with our customized private tour.

Here is a link to the tour they offer to where you are thinking of going:

http://www.private-prague-guide.com/...cesky-krumlov/

Best in your travels.
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Old Jun 23rd, 2009, 09:09 PM
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I am so thrilled by the range of replies I have received - thank you to all of you! I now feel as informed as one person could be without actually having visited some place. Unfortunately we have only one day for an out 'n' back and cannot overnight. Kwoo, I agree with you it is lots of kms in one day. Looks like we can depart Prague ~ 7 AM via bus and have many hours there, tho (per Christina but anti Johann) we should still consider the tour...but I think the bus makes too much sense since it gives us flexibility and is cheapest. Camille, the transport you described is beyond our price range - but so many thanks for responding! Tom, thank you for your delightful traveltour and we will definately look for the restaurant at the end of the universe, whoops, the restaurant Pivna KataKomby. Happy trails, pards.
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Old Jun 24th, 2009, 04:32 AM
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Maitaitom,
Even though I am not the original poster, I really enjoyed reading your post and have printed it out for our trip to Cesky Krumlov in August. The two restaurants you described sound right up our alley so that is where we will go for lunch & dinner.
Thanks!
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Old Jun 24th, 2009, 06:33 AM
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Maitai, I, too, had trout in CK and it was absolutely HORRID. ROFL!!

Thin
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Old Jun 24th, 2009, 04:08 PM
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Now you can see Cesky Krunlov in pictures from my blog.

http://travelswithmaitaitom.typepad.com/travels/

On some of the pics, if they open up and blog disappears, just hit backspace and the blog reappears at the point of the photo. there is a picture of us at Pivna KataKomby and our lovely wait staff.

H))
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Old Jun 24th, 2009, 04:12 PM
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We used Mike’s Chauffeur services to get back and forth from Prague to CK. I can't remember our driver's name, but he was delightful and took us on a couple detours on the way back. As I recall it wasn't cheap, somewhere around $200 or $250 USD, but we didn't have to rent a car and drive and it was very relaxing.
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Old Jun 25th, 2009, 03:04 PM
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Hi Maitaitom,
I read part of your trip report so far and love it. I have several questions.

We are booked on a flight from Boston to Heathrow on American Airlines & we only have 1 1/2 hours to connect to our flight to Prague. We land in Terminal 3 and fly out of terminal 5, like you did. When booking the reservations, I wanted a flight that gave us a 4 hour lay-over but the price went up considerably as I was ready to book. So I chose a later flight that had very good fares; but before I booked the flight, I called AA because I was concerned about the 1 1/2 lay-over time. They assured me it is a legal connection & we have enough time to transfer to terminal 5. Why did you take the bus instead of the train to terminal 5? How long was the walk from your landing gate to the bus? Did you get the bus at Heathrow Central? When you arrived at Terminal 5, how long did it take you to walk to your departing gate?

Also, we are driving to Cesky Krumlov. Was it easy driving out of Prague? How many nights did you stay in CK? We are staying 2 nights. I am debating about whether we should stop at the Karljstein castle along the way. When we are in CK, we want to see the castle, of course, stroll around the city, have lunch & dinner. We might want to cayak or canoe on the Vlatava River. Are there also bike paths in CK? Is one whole day enough to do all this (probably not) or should we spend 2 whole days in CK & skip Karljstein?

Thanks for all your help!
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Old Jun 27th, 2009, 02:52 PM
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We booked a bus tour through Cedok. It was done in both English and French. The trip down was about 3 hours as promised, but the country side was interesting to watch go by because I had never seen it before.

There are pros and cons to a bus tour. We had guided service. The lunch was very good, certainly far from horrid in my opinion.

We got to see the castle, walked around some, had some time our own before heading back to Prague.

Did we get our money's worth. I think so.

On the other hand, I can see well the arguments to spend the night there. A friend of mine did just that and he felt like he has spent his time wisely.

I made one big mistake on our Prague tour. I did not allow enough time. I don't move with the same speed and stamina I did when I was 70, so an extra day or even two extra days, would have been much better for us.
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Old Jun 27th, 2009, 03:11 PM
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Hi Kwoo, That's tight, but we were able to able to get from Terminal 3 to Terminal 5 in less than an hour, but you syill have to go through Customs and then make it to the gate, which (depending on the Customs line) could make that a pretty dicey situation. It can be done, but I think you are going to have to have luck on your side.

We asked someone official looking when we arrived, and they directed us to the busses after our flight. I think it only took us 10 or 15 minutes to get to the bus. It left shortly after we got on and took about ten minutes to get to Terminal 5.

Once inside Terminal Five, after getting through customs, the walks to the gates are anywhere from a ten to 20 minute walk, if memory serves me correctly (I killed a lot of brain cells on that trip, so the times might not be spot on, but they are close).

Thanks to Lady Garmin, getting out of Prague was easy, and the drive to Cesky was about 2 hours and 15 minutes if I remember correctly. We wished we would have had another day to kayak or canoe on the river. CK is beautiful. Hopefully you won't get our tour guide who had just escapaed from the Giant Pod.

I did not see anyone biking, but that doesn't mean there are not places to do it around there. The two restaurants we ate at in CK were terrific. Lunch along the river at the Two Mary's and then of course, Pivna KataKomby for a very fun dinner experience.

Good luck! Where else are you going?

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Old Jun 27th, 2009, 03:34 PM
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Kwoo - actually, if you're doing a T3->T5 transfer at Heathrow, you don't go through immigration OR customs. It's only security check you go through when you arrive at T5. The reason why it's a bus instead of the train, is because you stay AIRSIDE the entire time. The Bus connects T3 airside with T5 airside. To take the train, you have to enter landside which you DO NOT WANT.

When you arrive at T3, follow "Flight Connections" sign for T5. You get on a bus, get to T5, then go through security. For more detailed info and instructions, go to BAA Heathrow website and there's an entire section dedicated to Flight Connections.

Christina - do you remember the company name of that tour you took?
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