Walter

I will be staying by the Naples Centrale Train Station (March02-3rd visit) so I'll have easy access to the metro & buses.<BR> The connection info to & between these sites from my guidebooks is leaving me frazzled. I have choices of the metro, SEPSA buses and 2 local commuter trains (Cumana & Circumflegrea). Plus getting to the actual sites from the stations or bus stops. Any 1st hand transportation info?<BR> I was thinking of going to the furthest site 1st (Cumae) for 9am opening. Then too Baia and finally to Pozzuoli. In Pozzuoli I'll want to visit the Solfatara Crater (taxi,bus,walk?) and the Amphitheatre plus any other outdoor ruins if I have time & daylight. Also any info on the sites esp must-sees, often overlooked, not listed, tidbits, etc? TIA Regards, Walter

GAC

I am familiar with this area, as I toured it two years ago by public transportation. It is really a bit too much to see all of it in one day, but this is how you might approach the itinerary:<BR><BR>1. Take an early morning Circumflegrea train to Cuma (note that only a couple of trains go all the way to Cuma from Naples; most stop at Licata). You would need to take the metro from the Stazione Centrale in Naples to the Montesanto Station and then walk to the Circumflegrea Station (note that these two stations are about 100 yards apart). I have the timetables and can post them on Monday. From the desolate and dilapidated Cuma station, you will need to walk about 1.5 kilometres to the entrance to the site. I don't recommend that you cut through the bushes as a shortcut. From the train station, you can see the top of the Cuma Acropolis, from where there is a beautiful terrace with splendid views of the coastline.<BR><BR>2. After touring Cuma and the Sibyl's cave (which will be the high point of the entire trip), walk 500 yards to the restaurant at the main road and catch a local bus to Bacoli (hourly service, ask locally for schedules).<BR><BR>3. In Bacoli, visit the Piscina Mirabile and the Cento Camerelle, both fascinating relics from the Roman era. The local gatekeeper will open the sites for you.<BR><BR>4. From Bacoli, take the local bus back to Baia, and visit the archeological museum and site.<BR><BR>5. From Baia, take the local bus to Pozzuoli. Visit the Roman Amphitheatre, the Tempio di Serapide, and the Solfatara crater.<BR><BR>6. Return to Naples via Bus 152 or by the Metropolitana.<BR><BR>P.S.: You don't need to stay overnight at the Stazione Centrale in Naples to do this trip. Why not stay in the much more cheerful Santa Lucia area or around Piazza Municipio? You can walk from either area to the Montesanto Station. Bus 152 passes along Via Partenope where you can board or alight.<BR>

GAC

A correction to my previous posting, point No. 1:<BR><BR>Most Circumflegrea trains from Naples terminate at Licola (NOT Licata). The one departing Montesanto Station at 8:43 a.m. goes to Cuma (arrival 9:23 a.m.). The distance from the station to the site entrance may be more than 1.5 kms (perhaps double). The guidebook of the Touring Club Italiano on Naples and Vicinity has a detailed map of Cuma with precise distances and directions. Beware of unchained dogs along the way.<BR><BR>For more complete transportation schedules, consult: www.campaniatrasporti.it

Walter

GAC: Thanks, *exactly* the kind of detailed info I was looking for. I think you're right, too much for 1 day (I'm still in the early planning stages). I'll just concentrate on the sites/museums in and around Cumae & Baia. I'll be in Naples for 5 days and will visit Pozzuoli early one morning. Do you know if the Circumflegrea or buses are covered by a Naples Metro/Bus Pass? I'm going to try and buy that guidebook (TCI-Naples) before I leave, if not perhaps in Rome or Naples. I definitely need a more detailed map of these areas & sites.<BR> You don't think that the Piazza Garibaldi/Train Station area is cheerful). I've stayed there twice (Cavour & Palace) and like the being close to the Metro, buses, CS & FS trains for getting around. But yes, this area is *far* from being cheerful. That website is a big help and also the unchained dogs info. I'm very good with animals esp dogs but I'll take some meats from b'fast, just to stay on their good side). Thanks-Again Regards, Walter

GAC

To answer your specific question, I don't believe that the Naples Bus Ticket is good for the Metropolitana Railway to Pozzuoli, nor for the Ferrovia Cumana or Circumflegrea. This is because these destinations are outside of the City of Naples. When I took the Metropolitana to Pozzuoli (the Ferrovia Cumana was on strike that morning), I paid 3,000 Lire one way (rather than the standard 1,500 Lire bus fare). Another caveat: around the Metropolitana Station in Pozzuoli, I searched in vain at half a dozen cafes and newspaper outlets to purchase a SEPSA bus ticket for Baia. Everyone had "run out of tickets" and were directing me in circles. I finally was able to purchase them in Bacoli. So, you may want to purchase either a round trip ticket, or multiple one way tickets before you set out for your trip (at least if you travel on SEPSA). Also, the Cumana Rail Station at Baia has been closed for several years, and I don't know whether it has yet reopened. In addition to the TCI Guides (which are now also available in English), I also highly recommend the Blue Guide to Southern Italy, which has 180 pages dedicated to Naples and its environs. You can borrow it from the library or purchase it for $24.95. I'm certain that you'll absolutely enjoy this journey to the Campi Flegrei.

Walter

GAC: Thanks Again! I have the Blue Guides for all of Italy, I think they're great also. I went to the book store today and picked-up "The Heritage Guide-Naples" which is put out by the TCI, which I assume is their English version? I think with that and the Blue Guide and your directions I should be all set at the sites. Also "Streetwise" are my favorite maps and I purchased one for Naples, which I had never seen before. Regards, Walter

GAC

Walter: you are correct. The Heritage Guide is the English translation of the TCI Regional Guides (I also own it). TCI has an even more detailed guide of Naples and Vicinity (red cover), but only in Italian. It is like a super Blue Guide. I agree that Streetwise maps are pretty good. By the way, I would be curious to know whether you have a preference as between the Hotels Cavour and Palace in Piazza Garibaldi. Is one clearly better or is it a toss of the coin?

Walter

GAC: Palace Hotel: It was OK but nothing to brag about. Decent buffet b'fast in a cheery dining room. An old hotel, the room I had (maybe a single) was rather drab & worn. A functional but cheap tin shower stall, no tub. In was off-season & midweek (saving money?): The hallway was so dark I had to use my lighter to find my room number. The room could have been cleaner at check-in, dusted, an empty beer bottle on the balcony and a puddle of water on the bathroom floor. To me these things weren't that troublesome but to someone else they might be. Bottom line, it's a practical hotel but not a romantic hotel. I'll probably stay there again in March. Mainly for the closeness of transportation and I loved the view from the top/front rooms which is Mt. Vesuvius and the sunrise. The view is mainly why I'm not looking for another hotel around the Piazza. Regards, Walter <BR>

Walter

GAC: Cavour Hotel: Never again, if I hadn't prepaid it thru a TA I would have left that 1st night. Unfriendly desk staff and it broke my heart to have to tip them but I had left my backpack in storage there after check-out. The room was large with high ceilings but very dimly lit which made it very gloomly, I kept waiting for a ghost to materialize across the room. The bathroom was large, well lit with a tub & shower but you couldn't drink the water (posted on mirror as non-potable). &lt;See post below&gt; But I will try the water at the Palace again, perhaps that was just a fluke? The room had no heat and it was cold at night (Feb). They a (high) wall mounted modern electric remote controlled heater and fan. With the fan louvers you could make it blow up&down, left&right or both at the same time. The only draw-back was they had disconnected the heating elements to save money. I complained to the front desk the next morning, when I returned late that day they said it was working fine but it wasn't so another cold night. Their restaurant was listed in the Michelin guides (1fork?) but I didn't enjoy or finish the food and I'm not a fussy eater. Regards, Walter<BR>Author: Walter ([email protected])<BR>Date: 07/17/2000, 07:53 pm<BR>Message: gb: I agree with you about Naples. In '98 I stayed at the 3* Cavour Hotel on Piazza Garibaldi (train station). I arrived ~noon brushed my teeth and went exploring, later than day I was shaving after brushing my teeth again and noticed a sticker on the mirror (far upper corner) that said "aqua non-potable?". I was so *happy* the hotel staff forgot to mention that at check-in! Well the next day I had to break-out the Immodium and catch-up on my reading in the reading room. In '99 I stayed at 3* Palace Hotel 50M away from the Cavour Hotel and had the *same* problem (Added: I will say it wasn't as bad as at the Cavour). In 10 European countries and living in Greece for 2yrs with no problems, Naples is the only place I will never again drink the water. <BR>

PseudoPreRegistrationUser

Mark

Dear Walter, Just to fill you in on a few changes, a zoning system has been introduced in public transport here in Naples. This basically means that if you want to go to Cumae from P. Garibaldi, you can choose virtually any means of transport + and transport company, and you get a ticket (probably about 1.50 euros) which is a go-as-you-please pass for about 120 minutes.. You'll also be able to get a day pass taking you all round that zone. I don't have the literature to hand at the moment, and I'm not sure whether there's been a slight "ritocco" to the fares with the arrival of the Euro. Second, the Cumana line has been closed recently from near Pozzuoli onwards (though the Circumflegrea is still open), which basically means that round the Baia area you'll probably be travelling by bus. Of course, the line may have opened up by the time you get there. Undoubtedly you'll want to see the "new" museum in Baia Castle.. it's really quite spectacular.. and what a setting.<BR><BR> Personally, I've never done the walk up from Cuma station, and will be interested to hear how you find it. <BR><BR><BR><BR>

Walter

Mark: Thanks for that info! I did a search and found a site that explains these new tickets. http://www.nsa.naples.navy.mil/fsc/T...giranapoli.htm It seems that the daypass I would need is the "Biglietto Giornaliero-Fascia 1 & 2", it covers the area and the different modes of transport. Although it isn't valid until after 10AM-weekdays. I will just use a "Biglietto Orario-90min" for the Metro & Circumflegrea leg to Cuma and validate the daypass on the 1st bus I take after Cuma. GAC said you can see the Acropolis behind the train station. And looking at my map & scale, it seems that you must walk around the site (180deg) to get to the entrance from the station. Both directions (clockwise & counter-clockwise) are around the same distance (~2.2km). It just seems too me that the counterCW direction offers more minor ruins along it's path. <BR> &lt;More Questions&gt; I probably won't actually get on-site at the Cuma ruins until ~1000. With the shorter Winter visiting hours and connections, I wonder if I will have time for Bacoli? If not does the bus go to Baia from Cuma? Or will I have to make a connection? (Bacoli?) <BR>TIA Regards, Walter<BR>

Mark

Walter, personally I would forget Bacoli if you really want to do all in one day. I'm told they're is a direct bus connection from Cuma to the old station in Baia (just below the archaeological) which used to be the transport hub for the whole area. <BR><BR>I skimmed through your Cavour vs. Palace debate. With neither of them being in an exactly up-market location in Naples, you could always opt for an "agriturismo" (Il Casolare) just by the castle in Baia. It'll undoubtedly cost you less and you'll get a good night's sleep, though the main risk there is overeating.....<BR><BR>Thanks by the way for checking out the Biglietto Giornaliero - so you'll still probably need a one-way 110/120-min Fascia 2 ticket.

t

t

GAC

In 1999, I took the local bus from Bacoli directly to Cuma (no change of vehicle). It passed right by the abandoned Cumana Train Station in Baia (it will also stop there). On the return from Cuma, I took the bus direct to Pozzuoli. In Bacoli proper, I found the Piscina Mirabile to be truly extraordinary and breathtaking, quite unique in Italy (I am told that the only comparable site is the one in Istanbul which was filmed in the movie "From Russia With Love"). The Cento Camerelle were also interesting, but much less so than the former. If you are very interested in Roman ruins and architecture, I would definitely not skip the Piscina Mirabile. However, as I mentioned earlier, it is really too much to do everything in one day, relying upon public transportation. Were it my trip, I would do Cuma and Bacoli one day, and Baia and Pozzuoli another day.