Croatia is amazing

Nancy, welcome back! I hope you write a trip report. There are several people here off to Croatia in the upcoming months, myself included, although unfortunately I don't leave until November. I'm so excited, and would love to hear all about your trip!

Tracy

Did you get by with English, or are you fluent in a language that they spoke? What about the food?...familiar or "exotic"?

Nancy-would be very interested in your trip report. It does seem that there are a lot of people going to Croatia. I would be very interested in looking at this destination as a possible trip down the road.

I would be glad to write up a trip report. in quick answer to your questions - - it's gorgeous, it's clean, it's friendly, you can eat great food for not a lot of money (mostly pasta, seafood, GREAT panini-type sandwiches, individual slices of pizza, great green salads - - very Italian and Greek influenced foods)

We learned as much Croatian as we could prior to the trip (bought a great CD/book combo) but would not have needed to - - English is mandatory learning in the schools, all the 30 and unders watch all the American movies, and everybody spoke either some or a LOT of English. No language problems anywhere.

nancy,

write a report NOW!!

We are off in 23 days and counting.....

LOL - - okay, I'll get on it.

Nancy:

I will be there in Oct. so I am anxiously awaiting a report also. What about using the currency. Was it easy to get the hang of it. I'm thinking of knowing how much to take out of the ATM's. Is there a quick conversion that you can use to remember.

YES! Report please! we leave in 4 weeks!

MY TRIP REPORT:

we just returned from spending 11 days in Croatia - - started out in Zagreb for 1.5 days, then rented a car and headed to the coast. This country is beautiful - - maybe the most beautiful we have seen (and we've seen beautiful countries). it is friendly, people speak English (I don't expect them to, but what a bonus!), the food is great and very affordable (pastas, salads, pizza, panini, cheeses, great inexpensive wine, great locally made beer and incredible pastries everywhere - - the Croatians know their desserts!)

I wish we would have had an extra day in Zagreb - - it is a great city, rich in history, and has some great shops, caffes and neighborhoods. We stayed at the Westin, but only because we had free nights there (frequent traveling points). it is a wonderful hotel, great location, with free internet access in their business center. We did NOT need a car in Zagreb - - it's a 10-minute cab ride (and about $20) from the airport to downtown. Parts of Zagreb are only 100 years old, other parts are 800 years old. the Croatian National Theatre in the center of town is gorgeous (my great grandfather's bronze bust is in there!) and there is a great art gallery right across the square from it. The Old Town section of Zagreb, up on the hillside, is lovely - - incredible alley ways and homes and buildings.

we also took an afternoon trip to a town called Samobor, about 45 minutes outside of Zagreb. it is lovely, and worth the trip. there are lots of great caffes with outdoor seating, and a gorgeous old church and monestary.

On the third day of our trip, we rented a car (that is the expensive part! rental cars aren't cheap in Croatia!) and drove the brand new highway from Zagreb to Trogir -- which took about 3.5 hours. it is a great highway, and prior to it opening, this was a 6 or 7 hour trip. We went down to Trogir, because a friend of ours who lives in Zagreb said that Sibenic (just north of Trogir) is at about the point in the coastline where the scenery becomes gorgeous. She said that everything above there is "kind of boring, and not the kind of coastline you see when you "google" pictures of the Dalmatian coast." So, we didn't go straight across, we followed her lead and went down to Sibenic/Trogir.

Trogir is enchanting. We stayed on the Island of Ciovo, in an apartment high up on the hill, overlooking the city. we loved this spot, though it's not for everyone, because it's a walk up a very steep hill to the house. However, once there, the view and the hospitality of Miranda are worth it. You can google trogironline/smoljic or Apartment Smoljic Trogir to find it. Otherwise, you can find something closer in. the farmer's market at Trogir is great, the restaurants are wonderful (all built into ruins of buildings or in fabulous old buildings) the harborfront caffes are great. it's a very clean and very beautiful spot, worthy of two days.

We then drove down to Split to catch the ferry to the Island of Hvar. We bought our ferry tickets and put the car in line for the ferry, about 2.5 hours ahead of departure (they let you start lining them up that early) We then wandered around Split, which is a town I would not have much interest to spend too much time in - - it's over-built with ugly modern (1980's?) high rises, but Diocletian's Palace is a must see, and an easy walk from the ferry terminal. The old part of Split, right beside the palace, is great. So, park the car and wander for a couple of hours, then head to Hvar!

the ferry brought us to Hvar, and just a stone's throw from Stari Grad, where we spent two nights at a 550-yr old house that normally we might share with others, but it was still the off-season so we had the whole place to ourselves. it was central in the little village of Stari Grad, and spotlessly clean - - Apartment Sandulov (you can google it easily) Stari Grad is lovely, quiet, rich with history. It has just enough restaurants and shops to keep you interested for three or four days. Don't miss Petar Hektorovic's home - - ask the locals which door to knock on to go in... You can google this site and have a look, it's very well photographed. We also drove to Hvar City, on the other side of the island. the drive across the mountains is something else. 2 lane roads and high, high up on the spine of the mtn range, and often no guard rails. it's not for the squeemish, but oh so worth the views (driver must not look! don't take eyes off road!). Hvar City is gorgeous - - go up to the fortress above the city for spectacular views of the city, the harbor and the surrounding islands. Sit in a caffe in the huge open area and take it all in, and roam the alley ways and shops. Walk the boardwalk all the way around the harbor.

we then headed back to Stari Grad, but this time taking the western road - - not nearly as scary as the other road. And good thing the days are long, because you do not want to be driving that road at dark -- no way. However, on the way home, the less scary road also offered spectacular views of harbors along the way, especially at Sv. Nedjelija, right before we cut over and back to Stari Grad. Another great little town right near Stari Grad is Vrboska, and it offers some great beaches. (all the beaches in Croatia are either soft gravel or rocks - - you won't find many sand beaches)

the next day we left Stari Grad for the southern end of Hvar Island, to catch the ferry at Sucuraj to head back to the mainland. The drive from Stari Grad to Sucuraj was gorgeous - -up high, overlooking turquoise bays, and for the first time seeing the incredible scale of the mountains coming down to the sea on the mainland.

we again put our car in the line at the ferry terminal, and went to a local caffe for a great local beer (on a hot day you must have a Karlovacko!). The trip over to the mainland was only about 25 minutes and landed us at Drvenik - - a lovely coastal spot. Along the coast on the way southward is Gradac - - a town I would stay in on a future trip. Beautiful.

we then drove along the coast to Ston, where we spent the night in Mali Ston (our intention was to go see the Peljesac Peninsula, and these two towns are right at the front of the Peninsula) Ston must be seen to appreciate the engineering feat of the fortress walls (google that and have a look) it's most incredible. here you will also find salt ponds that have been harvested since Roman times. But, Ston is a place to only spend a couple of hours - - not too much going on there.

The Peljesac Peninsula (wine region!) is gorgeous, and you must stop and see two incredible little towns I hope to spend more time visiting in the future - - Zuljana and Trstenik - - WOW. Lovely, both located on turquoise water, and hardly any tourists. We drove all the way down the peninsula to Orebic, but it wasn't much to see -- it's not a very interesting city, beyond that it is the ferry terminal to go over to Korcula, which apparently is gorgeous.

we then drove back up the Peninsula and back to the mainland and headed toward Dubrovnik, where we spent the last 3 days, visiting the walled city and wandering around. I would say, personally, that 3 days in Dubrovnik is too long. 2 is plenty. When we arrived in Dubrovnik, we returned our car, because it's such a walking city, and we were staying right outside the walls of the old city, but thinking back, we wish we would have kept the car for one extra day to drive beyond Dubrovnik and see the coastline. If you go to Dubrovnik, you must walk the wall -- the views are amazing - - although again, the heights will freak some people out (it did me! but it was always worth it) The walled city is amazing and rich with history. It's also full of shops and restaurants and caffes. If you are looking for accomodations in Dubrovnik, we cannot say enough about the two fabulous people we rented from there. Sergius and his wife, Suada, were SO wonderful and offered great accomodations. Sergius runs a travel agency, and their property was great. See www.magiclinetours.com of Croatia, and that is his company. We then flew via Croatian airlines from Dubrovnik to Zagreb, spent one last night in Zagreb, and out the next day - - to Paris for three days, which was quite a culture shock (and shock to the wallet!) after the laid back, friendly and wonderful trip to Croatia.

finally: 1) everybody spoke English, and many spoke it fluently. 2) if you love gelato, you'll love Croatia - - we live in Seattle, where there is a coffee shop on every corner, and the Croatians have a gelato stand on every corner! 3) it's clean, and the air is so fresh! 4) the sea really is the color you see in the brochures!

for my husband and I, it's not IF we'll go back, it's WHEN.

currency was easy to use and cash machines were everywhere. we had no problems at all. there are also internet cafes everywhere - - that was never a problem either. and cheap (I thought) $1.50 US for 15 minutes. We went to Paris after this, and I couldn't find an internet cafe, had t use the one in the hotel, and I'm still fighting Swissom-eurospot who charged me 30 EUROS for 87 minutes on the computer, when I was only on for 17.

internet in Croatia is friendly and easy - - in France? bleeecccchhh !!

Wonderful report Nancy!
You could run the Tourist Board for the country.
It is now on my list!

Thanks for your report. Now I really can't wait. I'm from North of Seattle and hitting Paris "before" Dubrovnik, so sounds like that's the way to go. Again, any problem with converting the currency and figuring out how much to take out of ATM's. Is there an easy way of remembering the conversion. I am not great with heights, but I really want to walk the walls. Are there sides to the walk, or are you literally walking along the top of the wall with no rails or anything. That might freak me out.

Thank you so very much for your wonderful report Nancy! We leave for Croatia in 1 more day!!! and your report makes us even more excited to see Croatia. You saw places we will only drive by, so it sounds like a return trip is in order. We were so proud of Croatia in the World Cup today against Brazil. They really played well, although losing 1-0. We will enjoy another match in Croatia, with the local crowd soon!

Thanks again for writing your report so soon after returning.

Hi Barb - - no there are sides to the walls and there are handrails in some spots. it's kind of scary, but well worth it at the top! (if they'd let us post a photo on here, I would)

as far as currency conversion goes, we did this -- the exchange rate was 5.5 kunas to the dollar (I think), so we just said "if something is 100 kunas, it's roughly $20" Then we rounded up, because we knew it was really about $22 or so. not exact, but it worked.

Nancy! I can't believe you drove from Zag to Trog without stopping at the purely enchanting Plitvice Lakes!!! Right off the highway a few kms...wow.
I'm so sorry you missed that wonder!
Stu T.

oh, and Barb - - yes, Paris first, then Croatia. I didn't enjoy ending my trip in Paris (the museums are great, but otherwise, you can have it!) I would have rather left Croatia with it as my last holiday memory. And Air France sucks, so leaving Croatia on Croatian Airlines (which we found to be great) would have been better too - - off to some European city to connect to our Delta flight home!

Nancy:

Thanks that helps re the Kuna and if there are sides to the wall walk, I should be fine. Is casual dress the norm? After Paris, can I relax a little in that department?

tower -- my cousin in Zag told us about them and pointed them out on the map, but when we were on the freeway, we never saw the exit to them. missed it.

casual dress is absolutely fine in both Paris and Croatia. You're on vacation and you're a tourist. shorts, capris were everywhere. Even some of the cathedrals have signs that say "no food, no animals, no flash photos, no shorts", but they never tossed anybody out. They would have lost half of their visitors if they did.

Nancy: After 5 days in Dubrovnik, I am taking the bus up to Trogir for one night and then flying from Split to Rome for 9 days. I love Rome, and I know I will be able to relax there and have some days of just sitting in a piazza reading and people watching. Thanks again for the great report and information.

Hi Barb

If it were me (and maybe it's too late), I would split Dubrovnik and Trogir - - do 2 or 3 days in Dub and then 2 days in Trogir. I don't honestly know what you will do in Dub for 5 days. But maybe you'll have lots to tell when you get back.

Now that I am hearing such great things about Trogir I'm thinking I should have split it up, but apts and hotel are booked. I plan on doing day trips from Dubrovnik to Montenegro, Cavat and some of the islands, so I am only really spending one full day in Dubrovnik. If I catch an early bus to Trogir (4 hrs) I want to spend the rest of that day in Trogir. My plane does not leave Split until 5:30 p.m. so I thought I would spend some time in Split that day before I leave, especially want to see Diocletian's Palace. Will I have enough time to do this and get back to my hotel for transfer to the airport?

That is leaving Split the following day at 5:30 p.m.

Nancy,

Thanks a mil...

We are doing almost exactly the same itinerary in 23 days from now, ending in Paris, but I've been there a zillion times and have friends there and we LOVE Paris. It's always nice for us in Paris as we have done all the touristy things years ago and we now go to just take in some new things and relax.

We will also be driving from Zagreb to Split, saving Trogir on the return from Hvar. We will not spend overnight in Zagreb, but head out after lunch and start driving. We are actually starting the trip in Slovenia, so we go to Zagreb by train and get our car there to drive down. we are only keeping the car to drive down the coast and then dropping it off once we hit Dubrovnik. We are staying longer in Dubrovnik as i just want to relax at our fab hotel, Grand Villa Argentina! Then its off to Hvar after Dubrovnik and then to Trogir, just overnight to catch our plane early to Paris.

Sounds like you had a wonderful time. Any specific restaurants you enjoyed along the way?

Barb - - yes, if you arrive in Trogir by early afternoon and then have it and a full evening in Trogir, that will be great (it's all gorgeous at night) and then the next morning too, you should be able to see quite a bit of Trogir (including the farmer's market - - it's a green market, and the Croatians make brandy and wine in any bottle they can find - - I have a great shot of a row of bottles -- Jack Daniels, plastic litre pop bottles, etc. full of wine for sale!)

Diocletian's Palace will be about 3 hours to thoroughly wander through.

RESTAURANTS: We loved "Pharia" in Stari Grad on Hvar. Atmosphere, service and food were great. We also loved cafe Kristian in Trogir (if you like pasta and garlic!) We also had a great lunch in Trstenik, at one of the only two restaurants. this one was a waterfront spot but I can't tell you the name.

We ate at Kapetonova Kuca in Mali Ston, (part of hotel Ostrea) which is considered by most to be the best restaurant in Croatia - - we had their signature black risotto (squid ink and some would not find it to look appetizing) and great grilled fish. Pricey but very good. This dinner was our trip splurge.

wine is cheap, and good, and plentiful with dinners.

tripgirl -- I must say that I'd be interested to see your Paris. Having spent three days there (loved the Orsay, loved the Latin Quarter, but hated MontMartre - filthy - and was luke warm on the other tourist sites), I feel about Paris like I do about Las Vegas - - it's there, and I guess everybody should see it once! However, they have a lot of the world's great treasures, and if I want to see them, I'll have to go back there someday and hit more museums. I just think the "greatest city in the world" and "so romantic" is great marketing. It's like Bush's "if you say something often enough, people believe it" I loved my husband's line as we ran out of the MontMartre area "I can't believe I have to go down into the subway to get the smell of pee out of my nose" LOL.

Nancy...

Great trip report. I will be in Croatia in September and really looking forward to it, especially after reading your report.

Question for you:

I will be picking up my rental car in downtown Zagreb and driving to Split (on a Tuesday morning) and I was wondering if it is very difficult negotiating the drive out of downtown Zagreb to the A-1 Highway?

Thanks again for posting such a wonderfully helpful report!

LCI,

Also want to know the answer to this as we are doing the exact same drive.

Hope you ( we) get an answer!!!!!

nancy,

I know that Paris is not everyones cup of tea, no worries, we all have our likes and dislikes.

for me paris is just one of those great big cities I like to be in, but then again, I love cities. But more and more actually, islands and smaller cities are becoming appealing!

To each is own, right?

So glad the rest of your trip was a joy!

Post more stuff.......

Trip Girl...may I suggest if you haven't already booked the Argentina , investigate the Villa Dubrovnik, a few hundred yards further up the hill... a very special hotel...we stayed there last spring (after staying at the Argentina twice in the 80's) and it is indescribable....in my opinion, much nicer than the Arg. Here is the web page..breathtaking views of the old town and decorated in whites, blues and greens. It's own boat to take you to the Old Town and a bathing platform.

It has made our own Top Ten list of hotels of character and charm around the world. Rates should be around 220-250e's

http://www.villa-dubrovnik.hr/

Stu T.



Stu T.

trip girl and Low Country Islander - - we left Zagreb at about 4:00 in the afternoon, and it took a good deal of time to work our way through the traffic to get out of Zagreb and on our way, on the highway. I would say it was about 30 minutes of heavy traffic before we busted loose and were on our way. I suppose that the time of day we left had a lot to do with that? However, once we were out on the freeway, there were few cars and we clipped right along. Do obey the speed limits though, because my cousin in Zagreb says the police love to tag foreigners. Having said that, we never SAW a police car. (there is very little crime in Croatia, that I can see)

oh - - how could I forget? THE COFFEE!!! the coffee in Croatia is wonderful. it's Turkish coffee and it's so good. I don't even drink coffee (I'm a tea fan) and I loved it. It's hilarious, because we live in Seattle - - Coffee Central - - and we realize how BAD the coffee here is compared to that fabulous Croatian brew... coffee with milk - - yummy thick heavy espresso with frothy milk. yum.....

Wonderful trip report on beautiful Croatia. We should ALL see it one day...it's on my list for sure and it's always fun doing the research.More and more travelers seem to be headed that way. Glad to know it was easy with a car, as that is the way we almost always travel.

Am sorry about your feelings of Paris,,,and you are entitled to those feelings. I just think you don't fully understand the French people AND France. They are unique and it takes longer than three days in Paris to judge that city. Some people enjoy the countryside in FRance better than Paris...but Paris has a place in a a lot of peoples' hearts!

We all like some places better than others........but I try not to be a snob about anyplace! There is always somegood in every place one visits....

But you REALLY did have a beautiful and thorough visit to Croatia and your posting will be very helpful to those planning to visit there.

mari5 - - about 6 years ago we spent 3 days in Rouen and on the Normandy Coast, and loved it. Paris just didn't do it for us. (she says respectfully)
Nancy

Nancy - glad to hear about Apartment Sandulov - I'm staying there this September. Sounds like you had a great trip. I'm visiting Trogir also. Once Croatia gets in your soul it's hard not to go back every year. Thanks for the trip report.

Stu,

Villa Agrentina is all booked, we have a very very nice room all booked, but thanks for the suggestion. I looked at Villa Dubrovnik and got other opinions and I am going to stick with GVA instead.

But thanks!!

Nancy,
I thought at first that when you wrote "Croatia is amazing", you were referring to the World Cup Match today! Croatia played Brazil - and lost!!!!!!!

YIPPEE SKIPPEE!

Thanks for the great TR Nancy! In a way I almost hate hearing about how great Croatia is, we have two weeks in Sept and are doing one week in C, and then the second week in the Amalfi Coast area of Italy. Oh Lordy - maybe I should have just done the whole two weeks in Croatia!! Well, too late now! By the way , we fly from Zagreb to Dubrovnik on Air Croatia for less than $75 for the two of us combined - in case there is is any one who wants that option. We rent the car as soon as we get to Dubrovnik.

My next big thing is going to try to read the ferry schedules for get our car off Hvar and to Split. I have a block about it and am having serious trouble.

Also - thanks for the info on driving the roads on Hvar. That is really the ONLY thing I am worried about. We are going to do it even though it is scary. I am not a nervous nellie normally and hubster is a fantastic drive but still......sounds like they are HIGH!

Happy Cheesehead (where are you from? Canada? or Wisconsin?)

anyway, the roads at the top of the mountains are very high on Hvar, and if we make that trip again, my husband is threatening to have me tranquilized first. I guess it was when the giant friggin' tourist busses would come around the corner of a cliff, and then tell us to back up so they could get by.....and we'd have to back up on those roads.... Or maybe that wasn't the worst part....I have kind of blocked it out. You'll just have to give it a try and see what you think...being in the passenger's seat on the way up to the top is scary (you are on the same side as the abrupt road edge) My husband and I just kept saying "how the heck did they build these roads in the first place?" When there are turn-offs, the views are spectacular. when there aren't turn-offs, you'll wish you were wearing Depends....

oops - - I mean "turn OUTS"

I think you know what I was trying to say.

Nancy, thank you so much for posting your trip report! Croatia sounds fabulous, and every time I read a report I get more excited about our upcoming trip. I wish we didn't have to wait until November!

How was the driving? Hubby is quite nervous about driving in Croatia, although I told him that we drove through London, and that was beyond crazy, and surely Croatia has to be better than that!

Unfortunately we only have a week for Croatia. Right now our itinerary is 3 nights Dubrovnik, 1 night in Mostar (Bosnia) and 3 nights in Trogir before we fly to London for a night. I'm trying to decide to Mostar is worth a night, but we will be driving there on the way to Trogir so I think it will make for too long of a day if we don't stay. We are planning on visiting Ston on the way to Mostar, so I'm glad you mentioned it!

Thanks again!
Tracy

"When there are turn-offs, the views are spectacular. when there aren't turn-offs, you'll wish you were wearing Depends...."

OMG - LOL!

Ok - maybe I can ferry over from that little town near Korcula - Orbic?? I will look into it. We have been on some pretty crazy roads but this sounds like it might be even over our threshold of acceptable.

that mountain road along the spine of the mountains in Hvar can be a bit nerve wracking - but those views are to - err - well - to die for.

LOWCOUNTRYISLANDER & TRIPGIRL, when you pick up your rental car in central Zagreb, head towards south of the city - Novi Zagreb. Follow the signs for Karlovac, Maribor, Ljubljana. On your way you will pass "Mercatone", a large retail complex. As soon as you're on the 2 lane road for Split, you'll be fine, can't get lost any more. Keep driving till you reach the motorway, collect your toll ticket and hit the accelerator

Thank you Teddybear!

I always get a little flustered trying to get out of an unfamiliar downtown area. Lucky for me my travel partner will be driving and I will be doing the navigation...your directions will help!

What a great report! I am one of the many who will be going to Croatia later this year - in September to be exact. I will be on a tour, but am planning on spending 5 additional days in Dubrovnik in order to make various day trips. I'm planning on going to Korcula, Mostar, Kotor and Cavcat. I will be staying within the walls and also outside. The tour takes me to Split, Hvar, Trogir, Plitvice Lakes, Zagreb and on to Ljubljana and Lake Bled. We will be staying on there an extra day and then to Trieste for 2 days before going home. I have been reading everyone's comments on this site and absolutely cannot wait to go. And we love gelato so we should be in heaven!!!

Okay, Nancy,it's my turn....
Amazing report & questions galore.
1)Unfortunately, our car ferry to
Stari Grad from Split leaves at 7 AM.
How long is the drive to the ferry
from Trogir & what time should we
realistically get into line
(Sept.23)?
2)I thought that there's a tunnel road
connecting Stari Grad to Hvar. The
description of riding on the spine
brings me back to my memories of
Crete's numerous memorial boxes along
the treacherous roads.Although we're
taking the car onto Hvar to see as
much as we can that's necessary,what
route do you recommend that's not as
terrifying (I'm too young for
Depends)?
3)Getting to Ciovo,is the exit from
the highway at Trogir clearly
marked? How long was your walk to
Trogir from Ciovo? Is the farmers'
market opened daily?
4)From Orebic to Dubrovnik,how long
is the drive,considering a stop to
see the Ston walls?
5)We're also returning the car in
Dubrovnik.We're now wondering if
we should keep it another day.To
take it to Montenegro? to Mljet?
What's your suggestion as we're
in Dub for 4 nights?
Thanks loads.Looking forward to your reply.

Syl - there are two main ways between Stari Grad and Hvar. The old road goes along the spine of the mountains. The new road involves a tunnel and going along the southern coast of the island - it's a more modern (wider) road than the mountain road.

Add a few comments about Croatia. We loved Split and there is a wonderful charming hotel that has a lovely location. It's the Park. They were gracious beyond words and breakfast or drinks on their terrace is memorable. Get a room with a view. Three days in Trogir sounds like two too many.... Get a private guide in Split. It's an amazing city. Also, if you can get to Upper Ston on the Pellajc Peninsula, there's an extraordinary restaurant. Don't remember its name, but it is the only one. The town on Ston, at the end of a deep inlet is lovely and was once very, very rich because it had salt. If you can take a ferry for the day from Dubrovnik to Shippan Luka, do it. It's lovely. Tiny little town, beautiful inlet, wonderful simple fish restaurant just by the tiny town (with a couple of medieval buildings. Walk from town to the interior of the island. It's gorgeous with tiny farms, vineyards, beautiful little farm houses.

Croatia is just fabulous.

Nancy,
Absolutely great trip report! We’ll be in Croatia in Sept

From Stari Grad to Hvar – how do you know new vs. old road? Are they marked in English? We’ll get in Stari Grad in the evening, we need to take the ‘safer’ road.

You mentioned that you missed the exit for Plitvice Lakes – does anyone know what road we need to take from Zagreb for the Lakes? Is the exit name ‘Plitivice’ or something else?

When leaving Hvar island, the original thought was to take the ferry back to Split then drive the coast to Dubrovnik (maybe a day trip from Dubrovnik to Peljesac Peninsula – we would probably need to rent a car for the day, since we drop off the car when we arrive in Dubrovnik). Now, after reading your report, I have second thoughts…your way via Sucuraj sounds great, too. What do you think? How long was the drive from Stari Grad to Sucuraj? Some people on this board advice against that drive…road too narrow, no railings, etc. Would you recommend it? Any details and/or other thoughts on these 2 options would be appreciated.
Thanks

I noticed someone, Nancy maybe, said Air France sucks. We are flying it in September. Can you PLEASE tell me why you think that? I would rather get on the plane forewarned so I can deal with whatever they do or don't do. We flew them about 8 yrs. ago and it was good. What happened? Thanks.

xyz:

There should be an exit toward Plitvice Lakes National Park, (Plitviczka Jezera)about 140 kms. south of Zagreb. Get a good map of Croatia at Barnes and Noble or Borders.

Stu T.

Drat! I was going to try to take the Korkula - Stari Grad ferry to avoid the Sucaraj - Hvar town drive, but it does not run on the one day I need it. Double Drat!!

Ok, so it is back to the choice of the more difficult drive across Hvar or driving all the way up to Split and taking that ferry over. I think we will white knuckle it unless the weather and or visibility is poor that day.

I will report on it if we survive.

just a heads up - Footprint just released their updated Croatia guide, 3rd edition. Of all the Croatian guide books I have - I like their's best. Nelles - second. DK Eyewitness - third. For illos - Knopfs, beautifully done.

CartaPisana,

In your opinion, what makes the Footprint Croatia guide better? I've purchased and read the Brandt Croatia guide and thought it is ok, but I am looking for another guide to supplement it for cross-referencing things. I was contemplating getting the Footprint guide, and now hearing your recommendation I'm thinking that's the way to go.

Any information you can share is much appreciated!

Thanks!

LCI - Footprint usually contains out-of-the-way places that I've not see listed in other guide books. Their restaurant listing invariably includes places not found on the standard tourist program.

Thanks CP!

Sounds like the type of guide I am looking for!

Thanks Nancy for the report. I am also interested in Croatia. My only experience with a former Eastern European country is Prague, which is amazingly pretty. However, there was some crime targeted at tourists (lots of pickpocketing in the subway) and many dishonest merchants cheated tourists (eg. our hotel decided to raise the rate upon our arrival though we made a reservation with a stated rate and had a printout of that with us). Was this the case?

Hey barkinpark.. here's my 2cents.. spent 1week+ in Croatia earlier this month.. never once felt taken advantage of/ cheated/ nervous / unsafe. No dishonest merchants. Most everyone seemed very gracious and pleased to host the tourists. Happy travels to you!

zwho..........Air France is fine. There are "quirks" with every airline, and judgement often depends on an unusual or "off" experience. This could happen anytime, with anyone.
Air FRance has good food, they are as comfortable as any airline,
(occasionally they schedule too tight a connection ,etc. also,, We boarded once, sat a hour, they found something wrong with the plane, all got off, had to put us up overnight in a hotel (which was handle too efficiently. Charles de Gaulle airport is not the most efficient etc.......however I would fly Air France again in a heartbeat. Nothing major wrong as far as I can see, or they wouldn't stay in business.
I wouldn't worry one bit about your flight in Sept. Going to beautiful, interesting France is the main draw...and even if you are passing through I'm sure you will be fine.

re: reply to "zwho"...

oops! error: "hotel" which was".....SHOULD have read "put us up in Hotel,which was NOT handled too efficiently!

(but of course we survived and did fine!)

I agree--Croatia is terrific !
Here are photos to prove it.
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/showgallery.php?cat=3882

Bob,
Where is the “Above Dubrovnik” picture taken from? It looks like you were there on a hazy day, but it’s a great picture anyway!
Thanks

Lovely photo gallery Bob. Korcula looks beautiful!

It was hazy and we were on the highway above town heading south towards the airport.

Perhaps I missed it, but how did you get to Croatia? We are looking to go from Paris and cannot determine the best city to fly in to. I also understand Americans need visas and must register with the police dept within 24 hours of entering--maybe this is when arriving by car vs. air?
thanks

Nancy, great report! My husband and I have just returned from Croatia after an amazing 16 day trip. We loved it and I will post a report! The people, the food the scenery were all incredible! We spent the first week with a car (Zagreb to Istria, dropping off at Split) and the remainder ferry hopping and checking out the islands and then Dubrovnik.
Will write a report soon!

tachiebluebird - - I know nothing about having to register with the police....?????? we rented a car, but....? And yes, obviously, you need a passport. who doesn't these days?

Trying to think of all the questions to answer:

Yes, there are two roads on the island of Hvar to use to get back and forth. One on the "spine" of the island, with the amazing yet scary road, and the other, with the tunnel.

if you are leaving Split at 7 am in late September, you should be at the ferry terminal by 6:00 am. It takes about 30 minutes tops to drive from Trogir to Split.

The island of Ciovo is connected to Trogir by a little bridge. It's a two minute walk across the bridge.

Driving in Croatia is a breeze - - right side of the car, right side of the road for most of us (we've driven in UK and that's much more stressful in terms of having to be on your game every minute) the new highway from Zagreb to the coast is fabulous.

Yes, I'd keep your car an extra day in Dubrovnik, because 4 days there is too long. Get out and see the surroundings!

I disagree that 2.5 days is too long in Trogir. and yes, the market goes every morning. it was the best market of all of the coastal towns. (Zagreb's market is great, too)

the drive from Orebic to Dubrovnik is about...2 hours, if you stop and shoot photos.

The drive from Stari Grad to Sucaraj was about 1.5 hours, stopping to take photos (it's a lovely drive!)

CarolP mentions a restaurant - - and it may be Kapetanova Kuca - - in Mali Ston - - considered by many to be the finest restaurant in Croatia. Famous for their black risotto (squid ink). we ate there. it was our one splurg. it was very, very good (about $100 US for dinner and wine) I took a photo of my black risotto, and yes, it kind of looks like somebody ate a big bowl of risotto, a bunch of shellfish, and a whole giant bag of Nibs, then threw up, but it tasted GREAT.

also CarolP mentions a few other great places, but if you're having trouble fnding them, her spelling of the peninsula is a bit off -- the peninsula is called Peljesac. That's where you'll be wanting to look on the map.

Re: driving on the road from Stari Grad to Sucaraj - - you are on the inside lane on that trip - - not on the scary side where the steep drops are. It was uneventful!

We had no concerns at all about crime. The people were friendly, the hosts of each and every apt we rented were TRUSTING (no deposits required, one place said "if you are happy with your stay, just leave the money in the mail slot with the key when you leave", it is SO clean - - like someone vaccuums the streets every day, etc. it was GREAT. Just be a common sense tourist, and do the right things - - keep your valuables out of sight in the car, lock your apt doors, etc., etc. All will be well.

We got to Croatia via Paris - - flew in and out of Zagreb on Air France. Did I mention they suck? oh yes, maybe I did. Especially after being on KLM from the US to Amsterdam for the first leg - - KLM is exceptional.

Air France - - took it on two legs - - to and from Zagreb. Planes were hot, didn't smell so great, and on one flight (from Zagreb to Paris) they told us at the terminal as they loaded us on the plane "if you have to go to the bathroom, go now, the bathrooms on the plane are both out of order". Someone said "how can you fly it with all of us in that condition?" She said in her French accent - - "oh, it's only two hours, everyone will be just fine - - we do this a lot" Jeeezus!! So, then they loaded us on the plane and we sat on the runway for an hour, THEN took off. We then got to DeGaulle (I hate that place) and when you get off of your plane, they have to BUS you to the terminal, which takes 10 minutes or so, and I can tell you that everybody on that bus looked like they were going to cry - - and all got to the terminal and went running for the bathroooms. (many were shaking their heads and saying "never again".) Air France is not great. But hey, they saved a lot of money on that flight, because NOBODY was accepting their offer of beverages! LOL

Hi Nancy - lets go back to that road from Sucaraj to Stari Grad. We will be coming the OTHER, scary way. What time of day did you do it, and how many cars did you meet on that road? If it is not a busy road maybe we can just take our half from the middle Would you tell someone driving from Sucaraj to Stari Grad to NOT do that drive? Was the road in decent shape?

Are you going to be posting your pictures anywhere? I would love to see them!

Happy Cheesehead -- I'm not sure I know how to post my pictures somewhere....if I figure it out...
okay - - TO Stari Grad FROM Sucaraj - - gotcha....

then now and again you will be on the scary side of the road - - but we probably saw...8 or 10 cars on the drive. there are blind corners though, so only hog the middle when you have lots of clearance ahead. We found that the best way to handle it was to just slow down and let the locals be the maniacs. if they wanted to pass or do whatever, let them do it. you'll never see them again, and if you hack them off because you chose to stop or slow down to let them by, then so be it!

Nancy - can you talk a little more about the place you stayed in Dubrovnik? I'm going early next month and am having a difficult time finding reasonably priced places in the city center. Thanks!

Gorgeous photos, Bob! I'll lay off on asking you for a more detailed trip report, because those pictures do indeed say 1000 words! However, I don't think your new (motionless) friend can hold a candle to Susan!

BC

Hey BC, Do not miss the current report from Ms_Go entitled " 14 Days in sunny Provence------" Good stuff !

Thanks, Bob! She's a great writer, I will definitely check out this report!

BC

RebecCain - - re: Dubrovnik accomodation. We stayed in "Apartment Magic" - - which is just outside the walls of the old city (so more quiet to sleep - - the walled city is very noisy) and the view from there - - both our room and the patio - - is spectacular. Also, the hosts could not have been more wonderful - - Sergius and Suada. Just google (I think) Magic Line Tours and look for Apartment Magic, or even just google "Apartment Magic Dubrovnik" We loved it and would stay there again.

Lolo do NOT miss gelato in "Millennium" in Zagreb ' it s in Bogoviceva street, just off the main square.

"Vincek" is THE place for gelatto and all sort of sweet treats in Zagreb.

it's been a long time since I posted to this thread. I hope everyone loved their trip to Croatia as much as I did. I've since been back -- went back alone for 10 days in May 2007 (hubby couldn't go, but I wanted to spend a week in Zagreb, visiting with my relatives and exploring my roots) so I flew in to Split, stayed in Trogir for 2 nights and three days just to rest up and remember how much I love Trogir, then flew on to Zagreb for a week. It was wonderful. We are headed to Tuscany for a week this Sept, then on to Istria for a week (the only part we haven't seen), meeting up with my cousins during that week. YAY ! I just love Croatia.

What was the price of the car?

Next week we are leaving for Zagreb where we will rent a car and drive to Rovinj and then continue down to Dubrovnik.
Questions about rental cars.... Any suggestions on who to use to book car? Pick up at Zagreb airport? Also, should we purchase the "rental insurance". I read in the Rick Steve's croatia guide that it is recommended.
Thanks and this forum is terrific!!!!

Hi my daughter is plannig to do Croatia on her own, is this a good idea, if not could you recommend a suitable travel group, she is 23. Thanks in advance