Croatia and Slovenia by public transport - can it be done?
Jan 25th, 2012, 02:27 PM
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Croatia and Slovenia by public transport - can it be done?
My husband and I are planning a trip to Croatia and Slovenia, 12 nights in toto. We are 'older' and would prefer not to drive. We are unlikely to have the opportunity to return.
Itinerary is almost finalised:
Fly in to Dubrovnik - 3 n
Korcula (by bus from Dub) - 2n
Ferry to Split (arr 8.30am) for morning (Diocletian Palace)
Split - Trogir (30 mins by bus) - 2 n
Trogir to Plitvice NP (1n) via Zadar for a few hours hopefully
Half afternoon and half next morning at Plitvice.
Plitvice to Bled (2n) via Ljubljana (also for a few hours)
Bled to Kranjska Gora (2n) to walk in the Julian Alps
KG to Ljubljana airport - evening departure to Helsinki.
We want to see as much of the Dalmation coast as poss hence travelling to Plitvice via Zadar.
We could stay one night in Trogir, then one in Zadar rather than 2 in Trogir, but we're hoping to avoid "one night stands" wherever possible.
The main questions:
1.Can this be done without hiring a car and also without spending twice as long on a bus as driving would take? I think this applies mainly to the Zadar-Plitvice leg and esp to the Plitvice-Ljubljana leg? I am having great difficulty finding a satisfactory way of travelling for these two bits. We'd prefer not to go to Zagreb (mainly to save time).
2. Do we have sufficient time to see Zadar enroute to Plitvice and then have enough time left to do Plitvice justice and still make it to Bled (via Ljubljana)the next day.
3. Should we spend 1 night each in Trogir and Zadar rather than 2 nights in Trogir, so that we reach Plitvice earlier?
4. Can luggage be stored safely at bus stations in Split and Zadar?
Thank you.
Itinerary is almost finalised:
Fly in to Dubrovnik - 3 n
Korcula (by bus from Dub) - 2n
Ferry to Split (arr 8.30am) for morning (Diocletian Palace)
Split - Trogir (30 mins by bus) - 2 n
Trogir to Plitvice NP (1n) via Zadar for a few hours hopefully
Half afternoon and half next morning at Plitvice.
Plitvice to Bled (2n) via Ljubljana (also for a few hours)
Bled to Kranjska Gora (2n) to walk in the Julian Alps
KG to Ljubljana airport - evening departure to Helsinki.
We want to see as much of the Dalmation coast as poss hence travelling to Plitvice via Zadar.
We could stay one night in Trogir, then one in Zadar rather than 2 in Trogir, but we're hoping to avoid "one night stands" wherever possible.
The main questions:
1.Can this be done without hiring a car and also without spending twice as long on a bus as driving would take? I think this applies mainly to the Zadar-Plitvice leg and esp to the Plitvice-Ljubljana leg? I am having great difficulty finding a satisfactory way of travelling for these two bits. We'd prefer not to go to Zagreb (mainly to save time).
2. Do we have sufficient time to see Zadar enroute to Plitvice and then have enough time left to do Plitvice justice and still make it to Bled (via Ljubljana)the next day.
3. Should we spend 1 night each in Trogir and Zadar rather than 2 nights in Trogir, so that we reach Plitvice earlier?
4. Can luggage be stored safely at bus stations in Split and Zadar?
Thank you.
Jan 25th, 2012, 05:16 PM
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> Can this be done without hiring a car and also without spending twice as long on a bus as driving would take? I think this applies mainly to the Zadar-Plitvice leg and esp to the Plitvice-Ljubljana leg? I am having great difficulty finding a satisfactory way of travelling for these two bits. We'd prefer not to go to Zagreb (mainly to save time).
Its been a few years since I did my research, but I think you are correct - this is the tough part! At least a few years ago, all indications were that it is EASY to get by bus TO Plitvice Lakes, but some information I read at that time - and I make no claims about its validity - said that getting FROM Plitvice Lakes to just about anywhere by bus was very difficult.
Have you considered renting a car for just (say) the 2 days it would take to get to and then from Plitvice Lakes? If you do that, you'll probably find it best to return the car somewhere in Croatia (Zagreb is the obvious, but not only, choice) from which you can take public transportation to Ljubljana, rather than face large fees for pick-up/drop-off in different countries.
The Plitvice Lakes are truly lovely, so I hope you find a way to see them!
> Do we have sufficient time to see Zadar enroute to Plitvice and then have enough time left to do Plitvice justice and still make it to Bled (via Ljubljana)the next day.
You might need more time than you think for Zadar - sites are more spread out than they seemed on the maps I studied, and since the main sites are in a pedestrian-only peninsula, you also need time to get to/from the bus station to the peninsula. It depends on what you want to see and experience, of course, but even if you limit yourself to just a few of your highest priorities, I think you'll need at least 3 or 4 hours to scratch the surface. I had most of a day, and could easily have used more time there.
The Plitvice Lakes can be visited in a variety of time frames; as I recall the park police have a "standard" set of 2, 4, 6, and 8 hour plans and they will work with you to tailor something to your interests. I think most people want at least 4 hours. I believe I spent 6 or 7 hours and would have enjoyed more.
I thought Ljubljana thoroughly charming and worthy of a day.
So, your plans for the stretch from Trogir to Lake Bled are more rushed than I would have wanted.
> Should we spend 1 night each in Trogir and Zadar rather than 2 nights in Trogir, so that we reach Plitvice earlier?
I found 1 night sufficient for Trogir - I think you can see most of Trogir's wonderful sites in about 1/2 day. But I also spent a night in Split, where a very long, very full day left me wishing I had more time to spend there.
I was glad I had a night in Zadar.
I also spent only 1 night in charming Korcula, and saw everything I wanted to see there in that time.
I didn't visit Kranjska Gora, so can't comment on your time there.
> Can luggage be stored safely at bus stations in Split and Zadar?
I didn't try leaving anything at the bus station in Zadar, but had no problem storing a suitcase at Split's bus station. Do check the hours, though, to make sure it'll be open when you need it.
Whatever you decide, you will see some amazing places. Hope that helps!
Its been a few years since I did my research, but I think you are correct - this is the tough part! At least a few years ago, all indications were that it is EASY to get by bus TO Plitvice Lakes, but some information I read at that time - and I make no claims about its validity - said that getting FROM Plitvice Lakes to just about anywhere by bus was very difficult.
Have you considered renting a car for just (say) the 2 days it would take to get to and then from Plitvice Lakes? If you do that, you'll probably find it best to return the car somewhere in Croatia (Zagreb is the obvious, but not only, choice) from which you can take public transportation to Ljubljana, rather than face large fees for pick-up/drop-off in different countries.
The Plitvice Lakes are truly lovely, so I hope you find a way to see them!
> Do we have sufficient time to see Zadar enroute to Plitvice and then have enough time left to do Plitvice justice and still make it to Bled (via Ljubljana)the next day.
You might need more time than you think for Zadar - sites are more spread out than they seemed on the maps I studied, and since the main sites are in a pedestrian-only peninsula, you also need time to get to/from the bus station to the peninsula. It depends on what you want to see and experience, of course, but even if you limit yourself to just a few of your highest priorities, I think you'll need at least 3 or 4 hours to scratch the surface. I had most of a day, and could easily have used more time there.
The Plitvice Lakes can be visited in a variety of time frames; as I recall the park police have a "standard" set of 2, 4, 6, and 8 hour plans and they will work with you to tailor something to your interests. I think most people want at least 4 hours. I believe I spent 6 or 7 hours and would have enjoyed more.
I thought Ljubljana thoroughly charming and worthy of a day.
So, your plans for the stretch from Trogir to Lake Bled are more rushed than I would have wanted.
> Should we spend 1 night each in Trogir and Zadar rather than 2 nights in Trogir, so that we reach Plitvice earlier?
I found 1 night sufficient for Trogir - I think you can see most of Trogir's wonderful sites in about 1/2 day. But I also spent a night in Split, where a very long, very full day left me wishing I had more time to spend there.
I was glad I had a night in Zadar.
I also spent only 1 night in charming Korcula, and saw everything I wanted to see there in that time.
I didn't visit Kranjska Gora, so can't comment on your time there.
> Can luggage be stored safely at bus stations in Split and Zadar?
I didn't try leaving anything at the bus station in Zadar, but had no problem storing a suitcase at Split's bus station. Do check the hours, though, to make sure it'll be open when you need it.
Whatever you decide, you will see some amazing places. Hope that helps!
Jan 25th, 2012, 11:02 PM
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Thanks kja.
We have, of course, seriously considered renting a car - in fact that was the original plan until my husband informed me he didn't feel comfortable about it. It's 10 years since we've driven a manual on the 'wrong' side of the road, and in addition I've read some of the roads in this area are steep hairpin bends in obviously unfamiliar surroundings. Have you driven there? (and are you 70?!) or did you somehow manage it with public transport?
The main purpose in going to Zadar was more to do with seeing a little more of the beautiful Dalmatian coast than seeing Zadar itself (although it does sound like a fascinating place). Perhaps we could sacrifice Zadar and just stay on the bus and continue on to Plitvice (which still leaves the problem of getting from Plitvice to Slovenia - I too have read many tales of the difficulty of doing this - don't think it's changed in the last few years!)
I had planned to have ~ 3 hours in Plitvice the first afternoon and a further 4-5 hours the following morning.
Re Korcula - we arrive late afternoon on a bus we can't book until we're in Dubrovnik(!) and leave on the 6am ferry (which I think we also can't book) for Split, hence the need for 2 nights. There's also my dislike of one nighters....
We can spend as much time as necessary in Split as it's only 1/2 an hour to Trogir - again just trying to stay in one place for at least 2 nights.
Your luggage storage comment very reassuring, thank you.
Yes, it will be wonderful - really looking forward to it if I could just sort out the niggly bits!
We have, of course, seriously considered renting a car - in fact that was the original plan until my husband informed me he didn't feel comfortable about it. It's 10 years since we've driven a manual on the 'wrong' side of the road, and in addition I've read some of the roads in this area are steep hairpin bends in obviously unfamiliar surroundings. Have you driven there? (and are you 70?!) or did you somehow manage it with public transport?
The main purpose in going to Zadar was more to do with seeing a little more of the beautiful Dalmatian coast than seeing Zadar itself (although it does sound like a fascinating place). Perhaps we could sacrifice Zadar and just stay on the bus and continue on to Plitvice (which still leaves the problem of getting from Plitvice to Slovenia - I too have read many tales of the difficulty of doing this - don't think it's changed in the last few years!)
I had planned to have ~ 3 hours in Plitvice the first afternoon and a further 4-5 hours the following morning.
Re Korcula - we arrive late afternoon on a bus we can't book until we're in Dubrovnik(!) and leave on the 6am ferry (which I think we also can't book) for Split, hence the need for 2 nights. There's also my dislike of one nighters....
We can spend as much time as necessary in Split as it's only 1/2 an hour to Trogir - again just trying to stay in one place for at least 2 nights.
Your luggage storage comment very reassuring, thank you.
Yes, it will be wonderful - really looking forward to it if I could just sort out the niggly bits!
Jan 26th, 2012, 07:54 AM
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I suggest you spend two nights in Split with a day trip to Trogir. We did that and were glad we did it that way. We took a boat both ways from Split to Trogir which was enjoyable. In Split we never went into the modern city but found plenty to do in the old section along the water. Trogir was nice but I felt Split was more interesting and we felt we had enough time in Trogir with just the middle of one day there.
We only did Dubrovnik, Korcula, Split and Trogir on our trip two years ago - we're going back next summer for Ljubljana and Bled and Rovinj. Here is my trip report (Croatia part is about halfway down) http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rful-weeks.cfm
We only did Dubrovnik, Korcula, Split and Trogir on our trip two years ago - we're going back next summer for Ljubljana and Bled and Rovinj. Here is my trip report (Croatia part is about halfway down) http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...rful-weeks.cfm
Jan 26th, 2012, 08:54 AM
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You'll have to go to Zagreb after Plitvice to transfer to Ljubljana, so I think you might as well try to work in a night there. Eliminating Zadar would be the choice for me.
I spent an afternoon in Zadar many years ago, but I do recall a long walk from the bus station to town. There is certainly a bus that I was probably too impatient to figure out.
The Croatia portion can absolutely be done without a car, but I do not know Slovenia. Alternatively, you could look into some hiking in the Paklenica area north of Zadar, but that would mean skipping Slovenia except for Ljubljana, which is easily reached from Zagreb.
Too many choices, I know!
I spent an afternoon in Zadar many years ago, but I do recall a long walk from the bus station to town. There is certainly a bus that I was probably too impatient to figure out.
The Croatia portion can absolutely be done without a car, but I do not know Slovenia. Alternatively, you could look into some hiking in the Paklenica area north of Zadar, but that would mean skipping Slovenia except for Ljubljana, which is easily reached from Zagreb.
Too many choices, I know!
Jan 26th, 2012, 05:36 PM
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> The main purpose in going to Zadar was more to do with seeing a little more of the beautiful Dalmatian coast than seeing Zadar itself (although it does sound like a fascinating place). Perhaps we could sacrifice Zadar
I thought Zadar had the least interesting coast of any of the places I visited. If you want a bit more of the Dalmatian coast than you will otherwise see, Sibenik offers some stunning vistas. Or, as you say, heading to the Plitvice Lakes from Split might make most sense.
Your 2-night stays in Korcula and Trogir make perfect sense in context! BTW, if the timing works for you, I recommend catching a performance of the moresca in Korcula. I thought it a fascinating and impressive display of choreographed strength and finesse.
> We'd prefer not to go to Zagreb (mainly to save time).
As yorkshire points out, a stop in Zagreb might actually make most sense. And for what it's worth, I thoroughly enjoyed close to 3 days there and thought it a much underrated city. But then, I enjoy museums - of which it has many - and that isn't everyone's preference.
P.S. If you haven't yet looked at Isabel's photos, do! She has an incredible eye.
I thought Zadar had the least interesting coast of any of the places I visited. If you want a bit more of the Dalmatian coast than you will otherwise see, Sibenik offers some stunning vistas. Or, as you say, heading to the Plitvice Lakes from Split might make most sense.
Your 2-night stays in Korcula and Trogir make perfect sense in context! BTW, if the timing works for you, I recommend catching a performance of the moresca in Korcula. I thought it a fascinating and impressive display of choreographed strength and finesse.
> We'd prefer not to go to Zagreb (mainly to save time).
As yorkshire points out, a stop in Zagreb might actually make most sense. And for what it's worth, I thoroughly enjoyed close to 3 days there and thought it a much underrated city. But then, I enjoy museums - of which it has many - and that isn't everyone's preference.
P.S. If you haven't yet looked at Isabel's photos, do! She has an incredible eye.
Jan 28th, 2012, 06:16 PM
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Thank you all.
Isabel - amazing photos!
Little Vicky - where do I find info re 8+ buses daily from Plitvice please? I've read quite widely and nowhere have I read this, but I'd love to know!
OK, so we've decided to ditch Zadar. Sibenik looks like it's close enough to maybe do in a short trip from Trogir/Split (still leaning to Trogir, despite above!). Love the idea of taking ferry from Split to Trogir as alternative to bus - thanks.
There's no question of omitting Slovenia - walking in the Julian Alps is one of the main reasons for going to this area!
So, we shall travel from Split to Plitvice Lakes - perhaps the bus goes through sibenik? - and then take one of 8+ buses to Zagreb then train to Slovenia. Easy!
And now I'm going to check out the moresca - I'm intrigued.
Isabel - amazing photos!
Little Vicky - where do I find info re 8+ buses daily from Plitvice please? I've read quite widely and nowhere have I read this, but I'd love to know!
OK, so we've decided to ditch Zadar. Sibenik looks like it's close enough to maybe do in a short trip from Trogir/Split (still leaning to Trogir, despite above!). Love the idea of taking ferry from Split to Trogir as alternative to bus - thanks.
There's no question of omitting Slovenia - walking in the Julian Alps is one of the main reasons for going to this area!
So, we shall travel from Split to Plitvice Lakes - perhaps the bus goes through sibenik? - and then take one of 8+ buses to Zagreb then train to Slovenia. Easy!
And now I'm going to check out the moresca - I'm intrigued.
Jan 28th, 2012, 10:12 PM
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> Sibenik looks like it's close enough to maybe do in a short trip from Trogir/Split
It's about 2 hours from Split to Sibenik. Do you have a guide book that provides information about options for going from place to place, along with times? I thought the Rough Guide most useful (and accurate).
It's about 2 hours from Split to Sibenik. Do you have a guide book that provides information about options for going from place to place, along with times? I thought the Rough Guide most useful (and accurate).
Jan 29th, 2012, 12:43 AM
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Ah. I guess if it's 2 hours might have to hope the bus from Trogir/Split to Plitvice goes via Sibenik and we can see it through the window! (It looked a lot closer than Zadar but obviously not) A friend suggested the rough guide also - I shall get one!
Seems the moresca is performed on Fridays and we'll be there on a Friday! Straight from the bus to the sword dance...we're not usually that lucky.
Seems the moresca is performed on Fridays and we'll be there on a Friday! Straight from the bus to the sword dance...we're not usually that lucky.
Jan 29th, 2012, 12:28 PM
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Bus timetable, www.akz.hr
Jan 31st, 2012, 10:46 PM
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Thank you Little Vicky.
You're absolutely right (of course!) - there are certainly 8 buses on the timetable. I guess my reservations are based on many many reviews commenting on the unreliability of the buses re turning up at all, never mind on time....
You're absolutely right (of course!) - there are certainly 8 buses on the timetable. I guess my reservations are based on many many reviews commenting on the unreliability of the buses re turning up at all, never mind on time....
