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Crete : what to see in 17 Days?

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We arrive in Heraklion for Easter early May and would like to see the worthwhile sights on our 17 day visit. We'll rent a car and our interests are beautiful places of course, but not resorts - rather small hotels and pensions, family tavernas, interesting ruins, food and wine. A bit elderly for strenuous hikes, lying on beaches all day and partying late at night.
Advice welcome on great drives, small towns, ports and places to stay,eat and enjoy.

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