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Crete- anyone done the Eastern end lately?

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We'll be travelling in Crete in mid September and thought to tour the area from Sitia around to Matala before heading for Chania and surrounds. We've allocated 10 days roughly and would appreciate some advice on what to see and do , stay and eat, if someone has been there lately?. We like studios and tavernas and cooking for ourselves sometimes, great scenery and ruins and a glass of wine on a nice balcony in the evening .....not so happy in tourist crowds

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