Wonderful Mimi!!
I can just see you, floating through the streets of Paris.I am so happy you had such a good time, more please?
It IS good to have you back

Hi Mimi!!
Welcome back and happy you had a nice trip When did your luggage arrive?

at the Le Louis 1X. where I had one of two bad meals, but the huge fire that was burning was comforting after a long walk in a cold rainy day.
Too many wine bars to list where I would stop. Favorite meals were at La Guirlande de Julie on Valentine's day.
They were closed all of Feb before that day. This is on the Place des Vosgnes so after the lunch I dropped in on André Bissonnet on the Pas de la Mule who specializes in old instruments. He's a charming man I was anxious to meet after reading a New York Times article about him a few years ago. He was pleased to hear that and he sat down and played an old small cello that was attached to a keyboard and he sang to me. What a wonderful Valentine's day for me!!.
Other dinners: "Le Coude Fou" "Restaurant Tresor," "7Lezards"
food not worth it but pay for great jazz downstairs.
Favorite meals were at Le Dome du Marais, Au Pied de Cochon, Gaya, and an almost 4 hour lunch at "a La Tour de Montlhery" communal tables with two couples. One who took the train from Normandy because they love the food and are friends with our waiter's parents and the other who lived nearby. We discussed Bush, Cheney and BHT with lots of laughs.
Angelina's I had hot chocolate and a mont blanc.
Berthillon was closed but I stopped at many a café for a scoop.
amusing(to me) a salesman at E. Dehillerin put his name on a card and telephone number and asked me to phone him. Sure made me feel young!
When I went to Montmartre to see the Jean Marais sculpture of the man who walked through walls, I was impressed with the Abysses Metro stop. Never did I think I would like some Graffiti. Railings walls a riot of colors.
My Metro mishaps: I was so absorbed in trying to translate the French poetry written in haiku form and posted at the head of some cars, that I missed my stop. Another time, I sat up a bit to straighten out my coat so it wouldn't wrinkle too much after coming in from the rain but forgot the seat springs back up and fell flat on my antipasto!! and the worst incident was when I was on the last stop and didn't know it. Alone on an empty train. In a few minutes a driver came by and saw me. Smiling as if it's happened before, he told me to stay put, we were going back to the previous stop.
I went to revisit the parcs I like to see how they looked off season. I was surprised to see many people at them on these cold, raw days. The Monceau had an amazing amount of joggers.
On what to wear: Everyone but a few wore boots of all kinds, a large majority wore what I call the dough boy coat or jacket. Those quilted puffy things in colors black browns, some reds and Khakis. Many fur coats lots of fur trimmed jackets and wool coats, many belted. Scarfs, ornate or fur.
Jewelry lots of spidery designs of stones and pearls but also twine of silk or leather for simple silver neck pieces and bracelets. The latter in Hermés to inexpensive shops. Clothes were too frilly for me in all the shops and the few simple things were beyond my price level. "I love Paris in springtime, I love Paris in the Fall. I love Paris when it drizzzles..." sung in B FLAT!

Welcome back Mimi We've missed you! I knew you would have an amazing time. Please tell us more.

On one day friends drove up from the Loire and that night treated me to dinner at "Le Petit Prince," a place I know that many of you love. K.andW. are always great company and that always enhances the meal like a good bottle of wine
I stayed 15 wonderful days in the Marais and on my street I loved stopping in a wine bar/bookstore called "La Belle Hortense." nice jazz playing in the background. I'm sure I left out alot but didn't take many notes as I was on the go especially the second wek when a pharmacist gave me something to eas my pain. I became a dervish and walked miles. I hope you enjoyed this report.

Cigale,

Welcome home! Please tell a little more about your meal at Guirlande de Julie...it is on our list for dinner and would love to hear your details...thanks!

Thanks you lovely Ladies. Gormiki, I wrote a seperate thread on the museums and art exhibitions so it wouldn't be too tiring to type.
Scarlett, I saw a dog that looked like Tate.
Aggie, my luggage was in my room when I returned from that long singalong

Cherie, I adore reading these! Please keep them coming!

Kiss-kiss,
BC

Thanks Kathy, wished I could have stayed longer to see:
Musée le Petit Palais on the Av. Winston Churchhill in the 8th that reopened after five years but the lines were so long to see the paintings and film.
And at the Musée de la Publicitee on rue du Rivoli was a photographic show by Jean Larviere who is a wonderful fashion photographer who did many of the spectaculat publicity campaignes for Vuitton, Nina Ricci and others.
And the one I really missed getting to is the Couvent des Cordeliers in the 6th where they are now showing "La femme au Portraits" All photos of one of my favorite actresses, Isabell Huppert as photgraphed by so many greats like Cartier- Bresson , Doisneau, Lartique, Avedon and Newton, and many more.

Lovely trip report, mimi. You totally engaged me. Glad you had such a wonderful time.

Loved your report; sounds as though you had a perfectly wonderful time and surely "did it all! How fortunate you are to have so many friends in Paris.
Welcome back!

Welcome home, Mimi. Jackie O sends her ruff-ruff regards. Were there many women walking around with bright pink purses? (inside joke)

Oh how I wish I had been at Hermes with you so I could shoplift.

Where was your best meal? What was your best wine? Did you go to Colette to shop? Was everyone wearing the Balenciaga coat trimmed in fur? Please....please........I am dying to know.

Cheers,
John G.

traviata, there was a special for Valentine's Day.
Feuiffeté d'oeufs brouilles, creme de ciboulette ou terrine de canard aux pistaches. I chose the duck terrine.

filet de daurade a la planche, jus au ginembre, risotto madras ou
salmis de pintadeau, gnocchis de chatiaigne.
I chose the daurade as I prefer fish.

and the choice for dessert was a mille feuille au chocolat over the parfait glacé a la framboise which I ordered with a moscato d'asti.
I had a bottle of Bourgogne Aligoté with the dinner and a suze as an aperif.

Mimi,

So glad to hear that you had a good time despite your trepidations before the trip! It's great that you had so many friends to spend time with--that puts a different spin on a trip, I think. I'm very happy to have you back.

Balenciaga, Colette was disappointing, not much merchandise.
Fur trim everywhere.
Great dog shops. Saw mostly yorkies and white dogs that looked like my departed Misha(Lhaso)
My favorite meal was a toss between Dome de Marais and Gaya.

Mimi, what an absolutely charming report - I truly felt as if I had just a tiny flavour of what sounds like a marvellous trip!

Mimi,

No WONDER it was a favorite meal..and in that setting too...just reading about it makes me yearn to be there.....I am tasting it all vicariously... thanks for sharing...

thanks Kavey, I left out alot that wouldn't interest most, like one day feeling like a dog after getting caught in heavy rain, I stepped into a hairdresser and got a trim.

Thanks Mimi..lovely BUSY trip...you sure got your money's worth I'd say!

I keep meaning to get my hair cut when on holiday sometime - I don't know why I find the idea appealing - I just do.

I'm not one to look after my hair - because it's long and straight I can be awfully lazy about it and I don't get it cut more than once every few months...

And yet I think I'd like to get it cut abroad - somewhere I couldn't speak a word and just left it in the hairdresser's hands...

But then I chicken out!

Mimi -

So glad your trip worked out well and that you enjoyed Le Dôme du Marais. Thanks so much for the report details!

Mimi, welcome home!
It sounds like a fabulous and very busy trip- - thanks for your wonderful report!

Yes, when did your baggage catch up? Your writing style is soooo lovely-really enjoyed your report!

Mimi, do tell all about the haircut!
Did you give the pup that looked like Pup a pet? Paris always makes me want to have him with me, they know how to treat a dog
I don't want you to stop, more details.. So glad that friends came to visit, and that you made new ones But then, that is easy for you

Donco, It was in my room when I returned that night after the singalong. Another couple staying at my hotel who checked in the next day got their misplaced luggage, a day later.

Mimi,

I have just re-read your posts yet again...Paris is my favorite city in the world and just when I think it can't get any more wonderful, you make me realize that it can...having friends waiting for you to share that amazing city...taking time to eat and drink with you...walking with you.. cooking for you..that is the best gift. We find ourselves returning over and over to the same hotel, the same patisserie, the same shops because we know the people there and they are friendly faces for us, as close to "friends" as we will have in Paris.... but you, on the other hand, visit and return to open and eager arms....How do you ever find your way back home?????

Mimi, I thought you told me that you were going to Paris alone?! Sounds like you were busy with people the whole time. Glad you had a great time. Can't wait for our trip next month-Provence & Paris.

I'm glad that you had a nice visit to Paris! It was so good to read about this installment of your trip. It gives me some good ideas! Thank you!

AGM, I did go alone. These were all friends I met on line long ago except for Chris. I also forgot to finish my report because of Dinner stop and a friend stopping by. The second night before I left, I finally met the shrimp56 and Judy, the starspinner and their flight was late and they had to check into a rented apartment so by the time they arrived at my hotel, the restos were closed but we did have a great lunch at the Au Bouruignon du Marais or was it the Le Rouge Gorge? A Very attractive and confortable spot that had a better confit canard than another place. The oysters were very good. We hit a few boutiques before we parted. We especially liked the Aspicbasilic on the rue Tiron that had alot of original articles. I bought a snail that is a pin as well as an objrct'D'Art. The other two, I think still suffering from jet lag bought some attractive pottery pieces. Another place I liked was where M.andS. suggested on our walks was the Montorgueil market, the remains of the old Les Halles. We stopped at the famous oldest bakery where legend has it the macaron was born and at the Caldo Freddo for paninis. This appears to be the new trendy neighborhood.
My last dinner was at the "Petit Bofinger."(across a street from the original Bofinger. I had a wonderful dinner of Oysters and Daurade and there was a poster on the wall I admired and it was given to me. Today J. took it and the Sempé one (that also was given to me when I bought the book) to be framed. My walls do talk!!!

Welcome home, cigalechanta! I am so enjoying your report. Glad you had a lovely time.

Johanna

Welcome home, Mimi! Un Piano sur le Trottoir was a great choice. I had lamb and while it was not wonderful, the presentation and entree and dessert made up for it. The music was entertaining. The singer did not speak any English but sang in English quite well. Definitely a fun evening! Chris

Chris I was hoping you'd call and we could do another fun night. Your daughter looked lovely in her new skirt.
Your friend was a fun addition. All so personable. Thanks for an enjoyable evening.

Dear Mimi:

As always, I loved your trip report. I was in Paris a couple of weeks before.

I had intended to visit Chanel for my lippie, but ran out of time. I still have this dream of walking into the shop, a size four, rich enough to buy the collection. Not in THIS lifetime

Hugs Ger

Cigale woderful report!

Please do tell, did you like the Caron de Beaumarchais?

yes but my room was tiny, no windows but the day staff, Alain the owner and Philip and a young woman were very helpful, When I asked what stop on the metro their directions were right on.
Umbrellas if you wanted to avoid the rain on your head. The breakfasts are not free but very good. O.J. Café au lait (my choice) a small jar of Pate, a slice of cheese, a croissant, a piece of baguette and pain de chocolat. Dailt Herald Tribune sand figaro, For me it was the location. After the pharmacist gave me a better pill for my pain, I was a dervish and could walk to the Louvre, the Rodin, The Nissen de C., the Palais Royale. I forgot to add on my report, I loved wandering around the antique/collectable shops of Village St. Paul and the arcade Louvres. You never can see it all.

I so wanted to get together again, but it seemed like time flew by too quickly and before I knew it, we were home. (Of course, if we had NOT gone to Paris during the sales, we probably could have had more time). It seems like every store we walked past called "Stacy....Stacy....come in and spend money"..and she did!

Hi Mimi!

I LOVED reading about your trip to Paris! I felt completely transported....

Am looking so forward to my first trip in June, where I will plan to buy a lipstick in Chanel (great idea!) and visit the Longchamp store (didn't know the stuff is so much cheaper there!!)

Also considering Bofinger for dinner one night. What do you think??

Thanks again for a lovely report!
Dina

Mimi, I'm reading this in Paris and I am amazed at the things you squeezed into your time in Paris. So sorry we couldn't arrange to meet in Paris and I hope that we can meet somewhere less logistically challenging when I get back home.

It's so nice to have you back, Mimi. I am loving your report(s) and looking forward to hearing more about your adventure. You certainly have me missing Paris.

Thanks you kind ladies.
Dina, I like Bofinger and it's smaller version across the street,Le Petit Bofinger less expensive but just as good.
At Bofinger as I was being escorted upstairs, my host suddenly asked if I preferred to sit under the beautiful glass dome which I did.
At both places I had a suze as my appertif Brouilly for my wine, Daurade (alacarte) at Le Petit and Bar at Bofinger, desert was a sorbet sitting on a fruit salad.

Hi, Mimi.

What a start:

"But the sun in her heart."

And it just rolls on from there...Your writing style (dervish?) almost moves us in and out of your experiences with you. Very engaging! Thanks for bringing back a bit of Paris for me. I'm going bonefishing with my daughter in the Bahamas next month, but part of me will be tilted toward France, particularly after reading your lovely report! I really appreciate your passion for Paris! Are there any restaurants in Boston that transport you back a bit? We go often to Brasserie Joe and have taken the occasional plunge at L'Escalier, which really is as close to really fine French dining that I've found in our fair city...

letour

Mimi,
If you don't mind, what is the price difference of the 2 and do you need reservations?
Should we reserve a table "under the dome"?
Thanks,
Dina

letour, you should try Petit Robert in Kenmore Square for excellent bistro food.

Merci bien, AGM!

I had my hotel book for me but going early one can usually get a seat. I didn't have reservations at Gaya. Remember ala Cart is always expensive. The menu of the day which usually gives a choice of two includes an entre(what we call appetizer) the main dish called Plat and dessert. Usually runs to 25- 29€

Hi Cigale -

Loved the report! You certainly do get around!!!

I and six of my friends (60th birthday celebrations!) will be in Paris in late June (can't wait!!!). After reading this site addictively, I'm going to be doing some major shopping in the pharmnacies and wondered the name of what the pharmacist gave you for your pain that made you "whirl dervishly." I'm afraid that all the walking is going to put my back in a state of shock and will need something more than Advil to keep up the pace. Of course, we're all interested in every detail, including the haircut!
Joy

joy, I'm 72 and ended up walking miles by the second week I bought ten packages to take home. It's what is blended with the ibrupufin that makes it effective. It is called "intralgis"
it says compris ibroféne 200 mg. He told me to take two every six hours. There is 30 to the red box!

Letour we love Hamersly's Bistro, Oleander in the beautful garden in summer, especially. Troquet, Icarus, Dali's. We don't eat out that much except to try a new place or for a special occassion. Though we liked
Petit Robert, we found it too tight.
Everytime the waiter had to pass he was forced to hit my chair.

Hi again, Mimi.
I never really got around to going to Maison Robert, but I would like to try Petit Robert une fois.

Hope that your back is well on the mend! I introduced the game of squash to my 10 year-old son over the weekend (I hadn't played in about twenty-five years) and I could use a tetch of your potion about now!

Bien Venue!

What a lovely thing to read on a very gray day in Tennessee. Thank you so much for writing it. I love Paris too and can never get enough of it. And I share your gratitude to french pharmacists. I also brought home an armload of meds that I am hoarding till my next trip.

Sharon -- what other meds have you picked up in Paris that you love? I'm laughing at myself writing this because this is the first time I'm thinking about purchasing meds in Paris rather than fun stuff!! However, I've heard such great things about their meds that I want to get the right stuff!

Am I getting this wrong but you had no window at the Caron du Beaumarchais? We were supposed to stay there this summer but there was a mix up and we stayed at Axial Beaubourg (was just OK). We walked by the Beaumarchais and it looked lovely.

If France what we call a courtyard is not the same peaceful spot in back.
It's an airshaft! My one window opened into the shaft disquised as a little garden in the lobby where there was a fire going on those cold, raw, rainy days.

I found Fervex which is a great cold medicine. Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the cough medicine with codeine in it cause I used it all up when I was there. The others are all in my bathroom at home. What I usually did was go in and describe my symptoms and just trusted that what they gave me would work and it did. I think I remember my friend who is a pharmacist being amazed that you could buy Tylenol with codeine just off the shelf.

just as I'm not a very good writer it goes for my photos. I lost three rolls because of my camera jamming and people walking in front as I clicked. They seem to come out of nowhere. I hope this link works otherwise email me.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePhotos.jsp?&collid=691285293303&page=1&sort_order=0

Cigalechanta - you remind me so much of my Auntie Annie who had the same passion for travel as you do. She didn't start traveling until she was in her midfifties. From that point on she took one big trip a year either to Europe, South America, etc.

Cigale -- can't seem to get into the website to see the pics. Also, do I have to be a member to see them? Merci!

Cigale, thank you for a great report about "our" favourite city. I can't wait to see the photos! We're staying in an apartment above Le Fous d'en Face in June so we'll be sure to have a glass of wine in your honor.

Welcome back cigalechanta! You certainly had a very busy trip. Your shopping experience sounds devine!

Welcome back, Mimi! I enjoyed reading your report. Sounds as if you had a great time in Paris!

Thanks my friends.
Mvor, you'll love the area, and "en face is fun. the singalong is Saturday and maybe another night.
Observations: I always thought French children wre well behaved, anyway, this French speaking couple with three tots paid no attention to them as they raced about chasing eachother and bumping into people and screeching. I sat on a tuffed seating area until they were way ahead of me so that I could enjoy my favorite exhibit, Dora Marr at the Picasso Musée. Another couple had a child who was spread eagled on the door way between exhibits and not until a few French people said something to him did he pick that child up.
I saw alot of tourists on corners looking at maps or the plan and never asking directions. I asked all the time and one Orthodox man showed me on the map at a bus stop where I should walk.
A french man asked me for the way to the Nisson de Camondo where I had visited and left and was around the corner from it, but WAS I HAPPY, to help a Frenchman because so many had helped me. And neither of us spoke well in eachothers language!

Welcome home, Cigale.

Isn't the Nissim de Comondo just fabulous? I went on my last trip and was so happy that I had.

What are your favorite museums in Paris?

Hi,irego, it's not the museum as much as what is showing. For me as I said, the Picasso for th Dora Marr exhibit. Any I'm not into gilded homes and Chateaux. After seing a few it is like eating too much cake for me but I love the old architecture and bas reliefs and peeling walls, old tile or lime floors, the old kitchens. that some are the size of my whole condo

luvparee try this:

http://www.kodakgallery.com/SendPhotosTo.jsp?&collid=691285293303

If it doesn't work, email me at hotmail.
thanks for reading my report to you and all.

Mimi,
I can't get that link to work, either, and I'm dying to see your pictures. Can you try again?

Shoot! send me your email and I can do it from there.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=bvgzv4f.8tkley2f&x=1&y=5cxk6q
>
try this...hopefully

In re-reading I see you had a Mont Blanc at Angelina, my favorite! Did you find Angelina to be much changed since taken over by new owners? When I was there last May, it was being renovated, but still open. I hope they didn't change too much; loved its faded grande dame ambiance!

Mimi...some of the best all around rainy day photos of Paris I have ever seen. Bravo...glad it turned out fun for you!
Stu T.

I love, love, love your photos. They are inspiring and moving.

I seem to recognize your friend, M. Is he "famous"?

Mimi,
That link works! Great pictures- thanks for being persistent!
Your pictures make me miss Paris so much!
But I'll be there again in May- hooray!

Yes, count me in as another, missing Paris!
They are beautiful photos, Mimi! Even the rain looked good

Great pictures!

and thanks for the info cigale.

Yes, Irego! Have a wonderful time on your trip.
Marcy, I may be seeing you.
Scarlett, lost some photos due to jamming of my camera so lost the Tate lookalike.

Mimi,

Your reports are always top notch. You exude joie de vivre and new travelers should tune in to what such a nice, knowledgeable person has to say about many travel sites.

I agree with you about the restaurant Dome du Marais. Did you get a chance to visit Le Pamphlet in the Marais?

I wish you many, many more years of happy travel.

Anthony

Thank you, Anthony, I had cancelled reservations because I thought I might have to cancel the trip as I was hardly able to walk. But-I made up for lost time
Hello from Alain and Philip.
Marianna, thanks for your encouagement.

OH, love those photos. I feel like I am right there, how beautiful!! And your report, love the personal touches.

Cigalechanta - I too loved looking at your Paris photos. Thank you for sharing with us.

Nice words from two posters I admire who are always nice and give great trip reports. I remember having the cam on in Italy but always at the wrong time to see my fodorites

Hey ciggie, what a great time you had but no museums? I'm off to France in a few days to visit an ailing relative.

The William Klein - a photographic exibit at the Centre Pompidou. Alas, Georges was closed.

Missions Etrangéries de Paris at the rue du Bac. A very interesting display of paintings, photos, and, weapons used to kill the chineese missionaries jésuite in the sixteen hundreds and a follow-up to the 20th siecle.

The Willy Ronis exhibit at the Hotel de Ville was my favorite photography exhibition.

The Mussée Cernuschi in the Parc Monceau was a favorite visit. This ia a hotel particulat that houses the Asiatic collection of Henry Cernushi and he bequeathed to the city of Paris. One of the Buddhas was of special interest to me. It was donated by Rene Vivian whose birth name was Pauline Tarn. She was a poet/writer and lover of Nathalie Barney known as the Amazon and close friend of the French writer colette who described this buddha in Tarn's home that had a collection of curiosites.

The Pierre Bonnard oevre at thr Musé d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris on the Ave. du President Wilson in the 16th was beautiful. I liked his dining and country scenes and would have preferred less of the same subject, a women in her tub and at her toilette.

A photographer, kind of kinky, named Christer Strmholm at the Jeu de Paume at the Hotel de Sully.

The Rodin: Sculpture in Space- Rodin, Brancusi and Giacometti.

The Maison Européenne de la Photographie in the 4th. This was my least favorite photo and film exhibit. All about young boys along with dummies posed as part of the scenario.

Mussée Carnavalet- I liked the foyer with all the wrought iron signs and other curiosities.

The Musée Nissim de Camondo-while I appreciate the history of this place, it was like eating too much cake!

The Musée Maillol had a wonderful show of the works of Picasso, Bacon, Basquiat, de Chirico .

I end with my two favorites: Sempé at the galerie Martine Gossieaux in the 7th. He still has the magic at age 90. I bought a book of his animal cartoons that were a special edition of 500 that were never shown before.


Back to the Rodin for the opening of the Picasso/Dora Marr exhibition. Marr is an underrated painre/photographer. This was my favorite. There are photos of Picasso painting Gernica that she snapped.
There are paintings of Dora like the weeping woman series. They were together 7 years. Suggestd reading with many of the photos shown at this exhibit is a book I have bought several Years ago, "Picasso's Weeping Woman--The life and art of Dora Marr.

William klein also produced that 60s cult film "Who are you Polly Magoo."
I know you have seen it, Balenciaga.

cigalechanta,
What a wonderful trip you had, and I enjoyed reading about it so much! I felt as if I was walking along with you, especially after looking at your photos. Thanks so much for those! I love the Jean Marais sculpture of the man walking through the wall... great photo!

Sandy

Thanks Sandy, it's called Passe-Muraille and is at the Place Marcel Ayme who is th author of The Man who walked through walls. I was surprised to see I was the only tourist there but it was mobbed, s usual above at the
Sacre-Coeur and the Metro Abbesses stop is a sight to behold with th incredible graffiti.

Mimi - I'm so glad you survived our little "send off" the night before you left for Paris. Great trip report!

Thanks Lara, I didn't sleep on the plane but saw Gerard Depardieu's new film, "Olé" and "Pride and Prejudice"
and another film, a British one, the title escapes me.
Luckily, I had no hangover!!!!
It was good to see you. I didn't do indy's complete 20 stops but close

The third film was "Seperate Lies" Rupert Everett, Emily Watson and Tom Wilkinson.

>>Thanks Sandy, it's called Passe-Muraille and is at the Place Marcel Ayme who is th author of The Man who walked through walls. >>

Hi cigalechanta,
My husband and I went on a walking tour of Montmartre, and we saw the sculpture of the Man who walked through walls and heard the story. Your photo brought back good memories of Paris It seems to me that the sculpture was right nearby the very picturesque Place Emile Goudeau where the Timhotel is located. The day that we saw it, there was a young woman, sitting on a bench in the place, playing the accordian. Such a nice memory...

Sandy

And it was made by the legendary actor Jean Marais!!! The story has been made into two films and a failed musical
On another forum there's a young man who wants to give tours of where movies were filmed. What a great idea, n'est pas?

Hi Mimi ~ I'm here, I'm here and I am loving your report!

...Billy Holiday singing in the background, how heavenly.

...And I was drooling over your Chanel experience.

Ok, I am going back to read more now, thank you doll!

Thanks Tiff, all the comments are like extending my trip.

I'm glad you had a good time, and I think it's wonderful that you were able to enjoy time with so many friends on this "solo" trip.

Thanks Carol, most were People I met on line and some I saw in person for the first time. The Yorkie was the breed I saw the most. Most Paris apartments are small so you don't see many big dogs. Lots of wonderful pet shops (and prices that soar)

Mimi, unless I missed it in your report, I'm wondering what happened to your thoughts of trying L'Ami Louis?

Sue, I had cancelled all the reservations when I thought I would not be going and once there, some places were complet or closed(school holidays)

letour,
We go to Brasserie Joe in Chicago, and I think I read somewhere that the two Brasserie Joe restaurants -- the one in Chicago and the one in Boston -- are connected We love the one in Chicago, and when I'm there, I feel like we're in Paris!

Sandy

The plateau of th fruit de Mer....miam!

The plateau of th fruit de Mer....miam!
LetourI also went for dinner when Ptricia Wells was thwe host. They served dishes using her reciopes and a book signing. Once before I went to a lunch at the MFA where she was for her updated Food Lovers guide to Paris.

>And it was made by the legendary actor Jean Marais!!! The story has been made into two films and a failed musical>

cigalechanta,
I didn't know that it was made into films! I'll have to look for it.

>On another forum there's a young man who wants to give tours of where movies were filmed. What a great idea, n'est pas? >>

I think it's a very good idea When we went to New York, we tried to find some of the places that were in You've Got Mail. We enjoyed those places, which we'd never even thought about visiting, had it not been for the movie.

Sandy

Mimi, I love that you stayed at the Hôtel Caron de Beaumarchais, a place I’ve always wanted to stay in but never quite had the money for. I hope you loved it. My, my pâté for breakfast – now THAT’S French!!

Your singalong at Le Fous d'en Face sounds wonderful & cozy.

Did you like Bofinger? I love that place! Got photos this time but never managed to get back to have dinner.

A couple from NYC, M. & S. and I also had dinner at Chartier one night as it was just around the corner from one of the hotels I stayed in, Hôtel Chopin. I loved the décor and the oeufs dur (like deviled eggs) but the pork I had was okay. However, the service was excellent, something I wasn’t expecting! Aren’t M. & S. wonderful people? So funny & erudite.

What a lovely Chanel experience! Bowing inside the temple – lol!

I popped by le Reminet, too, for dinner as you’d mentioned it was a favorite but it was closed for a few weeks. Apparently, mid-February is a time when a lot of shops close or a mid-winter 2-week holiday. I saw that Berthillon & Amorino’s on the Île St-Louis was closed along with La Charlotte en l’isle, one of Scarlett’s favorites, and a few of the shops were closed on that island, too.

Funny that you stopped by Brasserie de L'Isle Saint-Louis as I ate at the place catercorner to it, Le Flore en l’Île. And I ate at Au Pied de Cochon for my Valentine’s Day dinner where they gave all the ladies roses as we left the restaurant. Nice experience.

La Tour de Montlhery (aka Chez Denise) – I’ve wanted to try that place, what was it like & what did you eat?

Ha ha – Angélina’s chocolat chaud & Mont Blanc is one of my favorite cominations in Paris! Unfortunately, I didn’t get back there this trip. Glad you enjoyed it.

You had asked me if I liked the graffiti at Abbesses station but I never saw it. I stayed in Montmartre for 8 nights and only got out at Anvers station. Once I moved to other hotels I didn’t return to Montmartre. M. & I were supposed to tromp around there late at night my last night but because we got out of Le Train Bleu well past midnight that was an impossibility.

Didn’t go to Parc Monceau but I saw joggers all over the place, something I’d never noticed before in Paris.

I concur with your fashion review as I saw the same things, especially COWBOY BOOTS everywhere! I took a bunch of photos while at the Place de la Bastille because I know Fodorites are curious as to what people are wearing in Paris.

I love your trip report, Mimi – full of effervescence & grace & I loved looking at the photos that goes along with it! I especially love your “Man Walking through Walls” photo – never got a chance to see that but I read the story a few years ago. Pretty cool.

WOW, Mary, I just saw your photos they are terrific!
You ask what I ate at Au pied de cochon, started the usual way, my apertif of suze, 6 briny succulent oysters followed by dos of bar, mushrooms and sliced eggplant on the side, a sorbet and a calvados.
had the longest lunch and most fun at La Tour de Montlhery. What generous portions!!!
I had Dos de cabillard with roti creme d'ail, an aside of cabbage laces with lardons and a boiled potato. My wine was white something like Feuily?

Dome de Marais. I sat under the white glass dome.
My first dish was the lovliest presention. The colors made me think of Provence. Crevettes gambas de pleine mer aux herbes thai.
King prawns with creme thai herb sauce.
the yellow shade of the rice where the the giant prawns in their saffrony color sat and entwined with the green of parsley.

Echine de cochon nor de bigare au citron de sicile was a cutlet of black pig from the pyrenees with lemon from sicily.

dessert choice was: brise de manerine salad d'orang gateau Nantais-orange maltaisin salad with mousse served with Nantes specialty cake.

I loved my sword fish at Gaya, but not the decor and ambiance, the other two I would return one day if ever I can.


I had reserved the Guirlande for Valentin's day and had their special that was 25€.
The Choice was a feuffeté d'oeufs broullés, creme de ciboulette
ou
terrine de canard aux pistaches (my choice)

La plat: filet de daurade a la plancha, jus au gingembre, riotto Madras
ou
Salmis de pinadeau, gnochis de chataigne( my choice was the fish-daurade)

dessert choices Parfait glace a la framboise
ou
mille feuille au chocolate(i had the mille feuille)
as usually I had an apertif of suze and a muscato d'asti to sip with dessert.
I always order the least expensive bottle of wine in order to eat well and in this case it was a Bourgogne Aligote 2003... belated Valentine's greetings to you

They gave me a copy of the menu otherwise I wouldn't remember


Sharing food with another human being is an intimate act that should not be indulged in lightly....MFK Fisher

OK, jetlagged and indeed happy to be home, but reading your menu Mimi makes me want to return tomorrow.

OK, now you'll have to explain what Suze is. Is that a pastis? Or something else? Thank you so much for sharing your food memories with me. You must have had a blast in Paris!

M. & I talked about you. We said you have the most amazing memory for finite detail. Your MFK Fisher quote just proves it.

Nikki, after what I went through at customs on my way back I decided that next time I leave the country I might as well not come back. I wish we could all go back to Paris.

Hi Mary, Suze is a gention based apertif, if you don't like Campari, you won't like Suze and visa versa. That and my Pastis51 (a brand) are not imported here.
It seems like I was always busy with someone but most days like all those museums and lunches, I was alone but loving it.
Everyene at Paris had their baggage
messed up when customs went through it.
Glad I had no holes in my socks!

I also like Suze, but then I also like other bitter aperitifs like Campari, Aperol, and Cynar.

This time I decided to try something new and picked up a bottle of Gloss de Suze at the Monoprix. It's advertised as being flavored with cherry and ginger. I was expecting something along the lines of Suze with some cherry and ginger notes, but in fact it's much sweeter, with a very strong cherry flavor. To be blunt, it tasted a lot like cherry cough syrup, and not particularly good cherry cough syrup at that. Truly bleah.

Fortunately I picked up some Pimm's, a type of pastis I'd not yet tried, and some Calvados to bring home, so all was not lost.

No, my mishap occurred when I came into the Covington airport! Good lord!! Have never tried Campari so I don't know - I should try it once. I did do pastis this trip, though, and liked that a lot.

The question, Mimi, is whether there were still no holes in your socks after the security guy finished going through them.

Pimms is not a pastis but an English drink that was very popular here often served with a slice of cucumber. A refreshing summer drink.

Nikki, Welcome home!!!

therese, here's an introduction for you to Pimms.

http://www.viewlondon.co.uk/drink_feat_pimms.asp

"Pimms is not a pastis but an English drink that was very popular here often served with a slice of cucumber. A refreshing summer drink."

Yes, I know. My sentence could have been read in more than one way. What I meant was that I'd purchased Pimm's (which I can get here in Atlanta, but I felt like having some while I was in Paris, and a darn good thing as the Gloss de Suze turned out to be so icky) in addition to a type of pastis that I'd not had before (I'll look at the label later today). And of course the Calvados.

Therese, next time look for Farigoule, a thyme flavered digestif from Provence.

Farigoule sounds very cool. I have a long history of trying (and dragging home) all sorts of odd beverages. The pastis this time is Plantanis. My favorite bit is the warning on the back: "Le Pastis se trouble au froid."

One of the more interesting things I tried for the first time this visit at a creperie near rue Montorgueil, was something called chouchen, a drink made of fermented honey and water. Sweet, pleasant.

Mimi, my new favorite mussels dish is flavored with Pastis
Speaking of Pastis, how did the little Pup react when you came home?

That's one Pastis I haven't bought-yet!
In the Dordogne, we like to drink Fenalon,
and pineau des charentes from the cognac region
In the Loire they make an Eau de nvie de coings (quinces),
In th French alps, I bought Genepy, an herb that grows wild there,
Lillet from Bordeaux
And the Camargue makes an herbal drink.
That's part of the fun, trying the local drins and cheeses.

Hi Scarlett, he greeted me on the stairs but otherwise not too attentive, he's daddy's little pissant
Yes, mussels with Pastis is the way to go!!! and also sauces for our fish with have the added drink. I have been trying for years to buy fennel stalks to cook fish over as they do in Provence. I googled hours and can't find any. I have no sun in back to grow and dry them. Years ago William Sonoma had a Provence promotion of their products and they sold packages of dried herbs from there including the fennel. I bought alot of them but no longer can find them.

This is an unusual trip report with so much information that is worthwhile.
I'll keep an eye open for dried fennel fo you.

Mimi, find a Whole Foods, they sell huge stalks of fennel.

Personal problems aborted my trip. So sorry to have missed you but at least I have your report. Rainy days I hope, did not give you too much discomfort.

This is for K.
Angelina's was a disappointment because now it was all Americans there, a family with children drinking cokes!
and other disapponting things. The women waitresses were very slow and we were few at tables. But the hot chocolate and mont blanc were still, yummy

Cigale - we are having a chilly rainy day and I am sending the Yankee out to buy a bottle of some nice French apperitif..blame it on Mimi LOL

Lol,scarlett, it's freezing here and J. bought me some pineau des charentes, a favorite of mine.
When I do adopt a cat, it will be named either Pineau or Suze.

That's sad to hear that Angelina has changed so much. I loved its faded elegance, waiters, etc.

Thanks for the wonderful trip report and the beautiful photos, Cigalechanta. Now I am dying to try Farigoule. I had not heard of it before but I love the idea of a thyme flavoured liqueur.

Faux, I foiund a site that sells it. I just emailed them to see if they ship to Ma.
Scarlett, I use fresh fennel in my cooking. I need the dried stalks that look almost like bamboo.
Fashions observed;
gold purses,
black tights that stop at the ankle,
a man in a black wide-brimmed hat with a striped ribbon band in the colors of the French flag,
A woman with a leopard print suitcase,
Berets back in style(thanks goodness, I've 1/2 dozzen in many colors),
alot of camoflage print clothes,
most sighted, puffy quilted jackets and coats,
every kind of boot imaginable,
I found clothes shopping boring because the gypsy look was still everywhere.
too much glitter, ruffles, and doodads,
Handbags with too much hardwear which will date them fast.
Less smokers sighted since my last visit,

Cigalechanta, I wonder if your distributor ships to Australia? If not, I will certainly seek it out in Paris when I am there in October. I am becoming convinced (ie convincing myself) that it must be good for you, being herb based and all. I think we all should bring some home as a tonic, like the one my grandmother used to make with whisky, egg, lemon juice, sugar - you just took one tablespoon at night, then another, and another...

tagging to read on the weekend

faux, I have never bought it on line, only in Provence but here is that site to order.

http://www.internetwines.com/rws18451.html

An added fashion observation.
I was surprised to see many ponchos.

For those who emailed me anout Edith Piaf's cat. This was a going conversation on slowtrav where I said I was going to the curiosity shop that had Edith Piaf's cat (stuffed) in the window. I wanted to go to this shop and ask why it wasn't in the Piaf museum or Derolle's. It's been photographed by M. and by a few people I found when I googled. It looked pathetic! I found the shop in the Marais. It no longer existed. There were sheets draped in the window and you could see construction being done inside. Ironically before I left Boston, my recent issue of France magazine had a cartoon of a Frenchman, wearing a scarf and carrying a bagette as he peered in the Marais window where a cat sits with a sign that reads Le Chat a edith Piaf and the cat is saying Je regrette eating that last little sparrow.

Poor kitty, look at this, ciggie.
Aren't you glad you didn't find it.

http://www.ballofdirt.com/media/539/7247/46898.html

Oh how pitiful!
Yes, better to just imagine what the poor cat looked like..Dear Piaf is lucky no one decided to do that with her

Yikes, that IS awful!!!I was surprised to see so many fat cats in Paris.

Especially because I brought a friend's daughter the book, "Why French Cats don't get fat." A small whimsical take-off on Guiliano's book.

cigalechanta, I'd like to visit Longchamp in Paris week after next. Could you please tell me where it is located? Merci.

irego, it's located at 404 rue St Honoré but there is also a good selection at the BHV on the rue de Rivoli by the Hotel de Ville, especially in the nylon line.

Many thanks. I've been waiting for this!

Hi iregeo,
and Mimi
I bought my first Longchamp bag in the Galleries Lafayette but after that, I liked shopping in the Boutique Longchamp on rue de Vieux-Colombier..it is just off of rue Cherche Midi and rue de Grenelle in the 6th..
But I still get bags at GF too

I wanted to go to the main___ store on St Honore because is are the best looking.
A dod not miss is the new Guirlain at 68 ave des Champs-Elysées, this photo doesn't do it justice, the huge chandelier and hanging glass curtain is stunning designed by Andre Putman.
http://www.guerlain.com/index.asp?page=gbasp/boutiques/&logo=1

I just got around to reading your journal, and it made me homesick for Paris. Many thanks for an intersting journal of your trip.

That is truly praise-coming from you.
You warmed the cockles of this woman's heart.
your fan, mimi

Ladies, if I may, other than location, what is the difference between the two Longchamp boutiques you mention?

Because the St Honoré is the "Mother" store it has a larger selection and it is more elegant. That holds for all the other boutiques, the off springs are often smaller.

Cigale --

The salesman at E. Dehillerin who asked you to call him -- was it Emile? He's such a flirt! Franck is cool, too, but a bit more gruff.

I just returned from my first visit to Paris, and I loved it. Dehillerin was one of my favorite "discoveries" while I was there. I also discovered that my French isn't as bad as I thought, even though it seems to get better the more wine I drink. Go figure.

Thank you for a great trip report!

http://www.carondebeaumarchais.com/

Odd that Customs was actually looking inside luggage--I've yet to see that happen. They must have been after somethign in particular.

Thankyou for a marvellous trip report. If only they were all like this! If you chose 5 absolute "musts" from your Paris visit what would they be? Or is that too hard a question.

I think a Must would be to go on the next trip WITH cigale

hi, I was watching the Acadamy awards and was disappointed the two stars of Brokeback mountain were not acknowledged'
Jean, they had sniff dogs in Boston at my luggage pickup. One was so cute I wanted to dognap him.
Downunder, that's a difficult question because we all have a different value system, be it art, music, restos and money.
My highlight was the Dora Marr exhibit being a big fan and only now seeing her work in reality but have been to the Rodin before that show.
I always stayed other times at the Hotel L'Abbaye on rue de Cassette in the 6th but it has became too expensive for me but I wish I could stay again but was happy in the Marais, so easy to get everywhere and a friendly neighborhood. In my younger days, I stayed once at the Hotel des Nations and the hotel St Severign(sp) and my first was the France et Choisel that is now gussied up as the hotel Costes.
I love the Bois, you could spend two days there and not see everything.
Restaurants, gardens, zoo, a restaurant on an island, puppet shows,
There is so much in Paris, a feast for the eyes, the belly, the mind.

The store mimi mentions that we stopped at after our delicious lunch was http://www.aspicbasilic.com/

We did eat at Au Bourguignon du Marais and I concur that the food was EXCELLENT! You may see a picture of mimi's oysters here: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=71rkkun.61epd2bb&x=1&y=6rqrlu

My trip report is here: http://tinyurl.com/lvdmh

It was a delight to meet mimi!

thanks Sally for topping this. That oyster photo is nothing next to the rest of her photos!
But I must make a correction that was pointed out to me by Al on BPParis.

What the Cigale Saw:

The William Klein - a photographic exibit at the Centre Pompidou. Alas,
Georges was closed.

Missions Etrangéries de Paris at the rue du Bac. A very interesting
display
of paintings, photos, and, weapons used to kill the chineese
missionaries
jésuite in the sixteen hundreds and a follow-up to the 20th siecle.

The Willy Ronis exhibit at the Hotel de Ville was my favorite
photography
exhibition.

The Mussée Cernuschi in the Parc Monceau was a favorite visit. This ia
a
hotel particulat that houses the Asiatic collection of Henry Cernushi
and he
bequeathed to the city of Paris. One of the Buddhas was of special
interest
to me. It was donated by Rene Vivian whose birth name was Pauline Tarn.
She
was a poet/writer and lover of Nathalie Barney known as the Amazon and
close
friend of the French writer colette who described this buddha in Tarn's
home
that had a collection of curiosites.

The Pierre Bonnard oevre at thr Musé d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris
on
the Ave. du President Wilson in the 16th was beautiful. I liked his
dining
and country scenes and would have preferred less of the same subject, a
women in her tub and at her toilette.

A photographer, kind of kinky, named Christer Strmholm at the Jeu de
Paume
at the Hotel de Sully.

The Rodin: Sculpture in Space- Rodin, Brancusi and Giacometti.

The Maison Européenne de la Photographie in the 4th. This was my least
favorite photo and film exhibit. All about young boys along with
dummies
posed as part of the scenario.

Mussée Carnavalet- I liked the foyer with all the wrought iron signs
and
other curiosities.

The Musée Nissim de Camondo-while I appreciate the history of this
place, it
was like eating too much cake!

The Musée Maillol had a wonderful show of the works of Picasso, Bacon,
Basquiat, de Chirico .

I end with my two favorites: Sempé at the galerie Martine Gossieaux in
the
7th. He still has the magic at age 90. I bought a book of his animal
cartoons that were a special edition of 500 that were never shown
before.

Back to the Rodin for the opening of the Picasso/Dora Marr exhibition.
Marr
is an underrated painre/photographer. This was my favorite. There are
photos
of Picasso painting Guernica that she snapped.

There are paintings of Dora like the weeping woman series. They were
together 7 years. Suggested reading with many of the photos shown at
this
exhibit is a book I have bought several Years ago, "Picasso's Weeping
Woman--The life and art of Dora Marr.



What the Cigale Saw:

The William Klein - a photographic exibit at the Centre Pompidou. Alas,
Georges was closed.

Missions Etrangéries de Paris at the rue du Bac. A very interesting
display
of paintings, photos, and, weapons used to kill the chineese
missionaries
jésuite in the sixteen hundreds and a follow-up to the 20th siecle.

The Willy Ronis exhibit at the Hotel de Ville was my favorite
photography
exhibition.

The Mussée Cernuschi in the Parc Monceau was a favorite visit. This ia
a
hotel particulat that houses the Asiatic collection of Henry Cernushi
and he
bequeathed to the city of Paris. One of the Buddhas was of special
interest
to me. It was donated by Rene Vivian whose birth name was Pauline Tarn.
She
was a poet/writer and lover of Nathalie Barney known as the Amazon and
close
friend of the French writer colette who described this buddha in Tarn's
home
that had a collection of curiosites.

The Pierre Bonnard oevre at thr Musé d'Art moderne de la Ville de Paris
on
the Ave. du President Wilson in the 16th was beautiful. I liked his
dining
and country scenes and would have preferred less of the same subject, a
women in her tub and at her toilette.

A photographer, kind of kinky, named Christer Strmholm at the Jeu de
Paume
at the Hotel de Sully.

The Rodin: Sculpture in Space- Rodin, Brancusi and Giacometti.

The Maison Européenne de la Photographie in the 4th. This was my least
favorite photo and film exhibit. All about young boys along with
dummies
posed as part of the scenario.

Mussée Carnavalet- I liked the foyer with all the wrought iron signs
and
other curiosities.

The Musée Nissim de Camondo-while I appreciate the history of this
place, it
was like eating too much cake!

The Musée Maillol had a wonderful show of the works of Picasso, Bacon,
Basquiat, de Chirico .

I end with my two favorites: Sempé at the galerie Martine Gossieaux in
the
7th. He still has the magic at age 90. I bought a book of his animal
cartoons that were a special edition of 500 that were never shown
before.

Back to the PICASSO for the opening of the Picasso/Dora Marr exhibition.
Marr
is an underrated painre/photographer. This was my favorite. There are
photos
of Picasso painting Guernica that she snapped.

There are paintings of Dora like the weeping woman series. They were
together 7 years. Suggested reading with many of the photos shown at
this
exhibit is a book I have bought several Years ago, "Picasso's Weeping
Woman--The life and art of Dora Marr.

I mistakenly had put Rodin for the Marr exhibit It is still going on at the PICASSSO!! It's mostly Picasso but Marr has photographed him many times and her paintings are very good. Picasso painted a series of paintings of Marr called the Weeping woman. He tended to distort the women he painted more and more once there was the break-up.

Mimi, it is amazing how much you saw and did in the time you were there!

Linda, ROFL yes !! I checked the card it was Emile, the ROGUE!!!!!
Scarlett I thought I wrote about my search for Edith Piaf's cat.
I came across photos on line where it was displayed in a curiosity shop and tracked down the location, after a long walk I arrived to see the shop empty with construction going on inside.
I wanted to ask why they had possession of it rather than Deyrolle or the Edith Piaf Museum. Later M. said he has a photo of the cat and it's pathetic looking. There was a cartoon in France magazine showing that Marais shop. Shows a sign reading Le Chat d'Edith Piaf and the cat is saying to himself, Je Regrette eating that last little sparrow as a man carring a baguette peers into the window.

LOL, Mimi!
I love the title to this trip report

and the contents too !

Hi Lois, I'm having trouble reading airmails and will have for a few days so answering you here. I have no list of Marais hotels only what I brought that you can read above.
The tour de monthery (chez Denise),
au pied de cachon are in the 1st but not far from the Marais.
others I did not get to due to time/money/lack of reservations were,
mon vielle ami,
le pamflet,
les vapeurs,
robert and louise(beware, turkish toilet),
Ma Bougogne,
Le Tremoline,
Le Bar a Huites,
L'Ambroise,
baracane,
l'ourcine
you can google the locations.

That was an engaging report and happy to see you are doing well. I lost your email. If you still have mine, I have a question.

Hi, I'm at hotmail but don't email me til the end of the week when my eyesight is back completely. J. is helping me be here with my addiction.

topping for Lois, I lost your email but addd some more restaurants here and maybe others will post here some that they know in the Marais that I didn't list.

I wish I remembered the name of the place on the corner in the Marais where we had the most wonderful lunch. Salmon sandwiches..I try to copy them here at home but it just isn't the same

I will go through my lists and add to Mimis if you like..

Anyone else?

Mimi - Did you have eye surgery or find your glasses?

Hi, Thank you for the great trip report. I'm leaving for a Paris next Tuesday and can hardly wait. Am curious about bring medication back from France. You mentioned that you bought several boxes. Are there any limits, do you declare it at customs? Thanks again for the wonderful report.

I brought back a total of twelve boxes and no one asked and had them in my carry-on.

Thanks for the report Mimi!

Hey, David, I've missed you, off on another trip?

Hi Kay, no , I couldn't see for several days due to an infection. I was so scared but fine now.

Poor baby, sorry to hear that but you are strong and now I want to know what is special about the Marais.

Yes, Mimi, describe in your own special way, the charms of the Marais..I will enjoy that too..I love the Marais and can never really put it into words

Th Marais, I'll start with the name it means swamp. You can google the history and about the half-timbered houses that most write about and the oldest public square, Place des Vognes. This is an electic area with a Jewish/gay/artistic community. A place where you can be yourself, a place where you are never over or under dressed, a place where the main dress is old jeans worn with a top and scarf or trendy outfits.
So much to see in such a varied array from the synagogue agudath hakehilot to the picasso musée. So many museums and galleries to keep you occupied, so many upscale boutiques, clothes, gifts, curiosities to burn a huge hole in your pocket. For those whose eyes are bigger than their wallets, there are trendy boutiques and department stores. There's the Village St Paul to feast the eyes on antiques as well as at the arcade de Louvre. You are in the historic heart of Paris, charming small hotels or huge like the beautiful over 200 rooms Jardin de Marais. Restaurants for all budgets.
You'll find classic beauty along with quirky charm everywhere. You are in walking distance to the Sorbonne, The Seine, the Louvre and Notre Dame.
Pick up a copy of Jazz Hot or Jazz Magazine and find out who is playing at one of the Marais spots, Let the smell of Falafel on the rue des Rosiers draw you. Notice how crowded the second hand clothing stores are because, these young folks need their money to pay the rent in this all embracing neighborhood.
You never feel alone here. Stop for tea, or coffee at the many shops or linger over a glass of wine in the bookstore bar., spend the night at one of the many sing-along restaurant/bars.
Meet people at the happy hours or one of the bookstores, above all be happy-you are in Paris and in its heartbeat-The Marais.

Ahh, Mimi, you put it so well. Yes, you put it perfectly and made me wish I were there lol..which is not so hard to do anyway!
Yes, the Marais is so atmospheric, even with the many tourists , you can feel the history there..I never grow tired of visiting and getting lost in the small back streets, I never remember their names, I never remember the names of the shops, it seems they just appear at the time and that is that!
Thank you, Mimi..your knowledge and love of Paris is a great asset to these forums.

Happy I stopped by. What a neat description, cool cig.

That IS a beautiful desciption. Now, I need to go to Paris tomorrow.

Aw, Laartista, you've made me blush.
Thanks Scarlett, tonda, and all.

Hey I was just re-reading too and had missed the photo link first time around. The thing about rainy days-they suck for your shoes but make for awesome sky. Especially the shot with the Monmontre duomo in the background. Great pix.

laartista, on your very funny trip report, you mentioned Filene's bridal sale. Are you in Boston too?

LOl, I am still picturing the Filenes Basement melee we used to see on the news in NYC..

I think laartista knows when I say it's the Boston's "running of the Bulls."

cig. check your email.

Huh? There's nothing??? Is this a joke?

Holy Christmas, I sent it to the wrong person. My face is red. Check again.

Hi Cigalechanta, I was sorry to read about your present problem with your eyes and hope they are better soon. Thank goodness it did not affect your Paris trip.

Thanks Faux, I'm about fine. I have friends here who are much younger who have much more serious problems but I appreciate the emails my friends here have sent. When you get up there in years like me, these annoying little problems that attack you make you fear the party will be over.especially when loved ones are gone and no children or parents so let's appreciate life and good friends and keep on travelling

A beautiful thoughtful reply Cigalechanta. I am glad you are on the mend.

Cig, could you post the url to your hotel. Thanks.

Mimi,
Lovely and in light of sad news from friends who lose loved ones, something to remember

coco, here is my hotel:
http://www.carondebeaumarchais.com/

Scarlett and I have a friend Bookchick, one of everyone's favorite posters, who lost her mom yesterday.
Kathy, we all send our love and know we are here for you.

So sorry for your friend.

On a brighter note thanks for the hotel link I'm staying there next time.

That's great Laatisa, thanks for your fun thread that was so sunny and funny.
topping for those friends of Kathy.

Mimi, are your planning the Provence trip now ?

Hi yes, I'm going to Provence for on week starting August 20 and the second week is still in the works but one night is in Albi. J. wants to go back there but this time we are staying in a Chambre D'Hote. Finances tighter
And Our last night in Normandy .

Don't you also go to Poitiers?

Yes, I will be staying again there(outside of Poitiers)
Please, everyone, don't top this thread unless it's for Kathy, there are too many other trip reports that need attention and I also feel fodors should have a seperate forum for trip reports.

Cigale I am sorry to top the post but I do agree it would be nice if Fodors had a trip report forum. The only problem is that reports like yours would possibly get overlooked and that would be a great loss. Have you been to the Dordogne already? I love Beynac and la Roque Gageac and Domme if your are making your way from the south to Normandie and have not been there already.

good morning faux, yes I have been to the Dordogne several times not my favorite area, though it is beautiful, My stop in Normandy is the night before departure (where we always stay near Giverny and an easy drive to CDG)
It's raining here. I hope you have a wonderful weekend.

There is much good information here , not to mention it is a charming trip report.
Until Fodors does make a Trip Report section, we might as well all get a chance to read the good ones, like this!
So it is a rainy day in Boston for Cigale too?

topping for Degas

bookmarking

I'm glad this got topped, since I'd skipped it the first time by. I'm going to have to copy it for future reference. Your hotel looks wonderful. Is La Tartine in the Marais?
If I briefly could come to the defense of the US pharmaceutical industry (something I've never done before), the "intralgis" active ingredients are Ibuprofen 200 mg, same as what you could buy anywhere here. No need to buzz over to Paris JUST for that.

Stoke, it's what it is combined with that makes it effective. The 200 is the same as the Ib. here I know. Since I have been using the intralgis there is an improvement and my doctor agrees.
La Tartine is a few blocks around the corner from the hotel on the rue de Rivoli.

I brought some Intralgis gel home and my wife says it works great. From my understanding when used in this fashion the ibuprofen affect is localized and so more effective? I bought it at the pharmacy on Rue Monge for 5 euros.

I use the tablets you take two as need in six hours intervals.

Another reason to go back.

There are thirty in a box. The first place charged 5+ € but the druggist in the Marais charged much less.

I did not believe you, but after my sister brought some back, I know it worked for me.

Sorry for not thanking you. This is the first day that I have been chipper in a long time.

Has anyone else tried this? Sorry, cig, for turning this into a forum for us who are in pain.

topping for opaldog.

Sorry I didn't see the Marais thread til now but sorry for not answering your emails of where to dine in that area, besides above, here's a list.

Marais Restaurants (3RD, 4TH)
AMBASSADE D'AUVERGNE (L ')-A rustic setting and hearty cuisine from the Auvergne region: lentil salad, pork stew with cabbage and carrots. Daily L&D. €€ (AE, JCB, MC, V) 22 rue Grenier St-Lazare (3rd), 01.42.72.31.22. Rambuteau

AMBROISIE (L')-In a beautiful17th-century mansion on the Place des Vosges, media shy three-star chef Bernard Pacaud is renowned for splendid renditions of deceptively simple dishes such as lotister ravioli with truffles or langoustine feuif/antine with sesame and curry. Fabulous foie gras. Avoid the tiny back room. Tue-Sat L&D. €€€€€ (AE, MC, V) 9 pi des Vosges (4th), 01.42.78.51.45. Shaul

AMI LOUIS (L ')-A classic 1920s bistro known for its huge portions of foie gras and roast chicken and its exorbitant prices. People tend to love it or hate it, and well-heeled tourists tiook weeks in advance. Wed-Sun L&D. €€€€ (AE, DC, MC, V) 32 rue du Vertbois (3rd), 01.48.87.77.48. Arts et Metiers F3

BASCOU (AU)-A cheerful tiistro with a jovial proprietor and good Basque cuisine: red peppers stuffed with codfish puree, piperade (pepper and onion omelette), axoa (veal stew with tiacon and pimentos). Try the red lrouleguy wine. Mon-Fri L&D, €€ (AE, MC, V) 38 rue Reaumur (3rd), 01.42.72.69.25. Arts et Metiers

BENOIT -A classic 1912 bistro with 21st-century prices, and a favorite of affluent tourists for its traditional French cuisine: cassoulet, beef in Beaujolais, iced souffle with Grand Marnier. Try to avoid the back room. Daily L&D. €€€€ (AE only) 20 rue St-Martin (4th), 01.42.72.25.76. Chatelet

BOFINGER-A landmark tirasserie with a sensational Belle Epoque decor. Keep it simple here: steak tartare, oysters and big seafood platters. Non-smoking section. Daily L&D until 1 am. €€ (Cards: all) 5-7 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.87.82. Bastille

CHEZ OMAR-(North African) A lively fashion-world restaurant serving classic Algerian food: couscous, grilled meats and spicy sausages. Tue-Fri L&D, Sat & Mon D only.€€ (AE, MC, V) 47 rue de Bretagne (3rd), 01.42.72.36.26. Setiastien-Frolssart

GEORGES-Trendy restaurant atop the Pompidou Center, with standard world cuisine (crispy duck, swordfish with coriander), a space-age decor and a spectacular view. Wed-Man L&D until 2 am. €€€ (Cards: all) Centre Pompidou, level 6. Place Pompidou (4th), 01.44.78.47.99. Ramtiuteau

MON VIEIL AMI-A small restaurant run by Antoine Westermann, chef of the three-star Buereheisel in Strastiourg. On the reasonably-priced menu: foie gras pate en croute, breast of veal en cocotte both crispy and confit. Wed-Sun L&D, Tue D only. €€ (Cards: all) 69 rue St- Louis-en-I'lie (4th), 01.40.46.01.35. Hotel de Ville/ Pont Marie

MURANO-Fashion restaurants are rarely about food, but the contemporary French cuisine In this sleek new hot spot is excellent. Lounge music, eye-candy service and a chic crowd, but it comes at a fairly high price. Daily L&D. €€/€€€ (Cards: all) Murano Urtian Resort, 13 blvd du Temple (3rd), 01.42.71.20.00.
Filles du Calvaire

ORANGERIE (L ')-A pretty, small restaurant run by actor Jean-Claude Brialy. The fixed-price €65 menu never changes-green bean salad with foie gras, rack of lamb, floating island. Tourists and foreigners may get short shrift. Daily D only until 12:30 am. €€€ (Cards: MC, V) 28 rue St-Louis-en-I'lie (4th), 01.46.33.93.98. Pont Marie

PETIT BOFINGER-One of several small annexes of the brasserie Bofinger, which serve simple French fare at moderate prices. Daily L&D to midnight. €€ (Cards: all) 6 rue de la Bastille (4th), 01.42.72.05.23. Bastille

VIEUX BISTROT (LE)-A classic, expensive bistro near Notre Dame serving solid French food: frogs' legs, beef bourguignon, tarte Tatin flamed with Calvados. Extensive, expensive wine list. Daily L&D. €€€ (MC, V) 14 rue du Cloitre-Notre-Dame (4th), 01.43.54.18. 95. Cite

YACHTS DE PARIS-A three-hour dinner cruise on the Seine aboard the yacht Excellence. One-star chef Gerard Besson oversees the classic cuisine. Nightly departure at 8:30 pm, reservations required. €€€€€ (AE, MC, V) Henri IV, facing 10 bis quai Henri IV (4th), 01.44.54.14.70. Sully-Morland

Others on my list;
Le Pamflet,
Les Vapeurs,
L'ourcine,
Le Tremoline,
Le Bar a Huitres,
Baracane,
Ambroise,
Happy Easter or Bunny day for you.

topping, because this is too interesting and informative not to.

I'd love to have a printout and just follow in cig's footsteps. What a treasure!

cigale was certainly a delight to meet!

Topping for Saul.
(hi cig)

Got it, thanks a lot.

A reminder to some on why Cigalechanta is special here on these boards.

Thank you Scarlett, although I read Mimi's report the first time it was posted I am going to read it again. Truly a charming and informative trip report from a very lovely lady.

Topping for my friend, Jon.

mimi--Thank you for topping this. We are headed back in June and this is just what I needed!

ttt

Sorry to top an old report, but I just have to say how charming and helpful it is! My 15 y.o. daughter and I are planning a trip in March '08, and Caron de Beaumarchais is our frontrunner hotel choice, so this information is especially helpful. Merci!

I am SO glad you topped it because I missed the whole report when it was posted last year.
Maybe I was busy working, working, so I can go on my 2008 trip! Cigalechanta's advice on my 2005 trip was "spot on" as the Brits would say.

topping for d.

Mimi, thank you for mentioning the intralgis, I'm very interested and may get my mom some to help with her walking pain...

So, any pharmacy, you say...

mc, I hope it helps her. This was salvation for my knee but I have thre forms of arthritis . One has deformed my feet and fingers so that when I type I miss out on some letters or hit the wrong one. I'm also only a one handed typist due to a an injury at birth on my other arm, so tell your mom, to hang in, it's not so bad and not to tak lots of meds, you becme immune. I only take it when in pain that prevents me from smiling

Dear cigalechanta,

You are such a dear! This report was absolutely mesmerizing. I felt as if I were transported back in time, leaving the rush-rush of citylife. Your writing is so expressive and captivating. Thank you!

My husband and I are planning a return trip to Paris and environs for several weeks next March. Oh, the waiting will be difficult now after reading your report.

Mimi ~
As I've been frequenting the forums just the past few months, I only saw this thread today - and how much it says about you. Now when I read your posts, I'll have a very paricular lady in mind.

I truly enjoyed your report, for all its turns, detours and discoveries.

And the very first post got a genuine laugh out of me:
" I had hoped to lunch at "Taverne Henry1V" but it was closed til the 31st of February."

Can't help but wonder if that's a slip or an example of some kind of gallic humor ...

At any rate, how great it is to have a report from cold, damp February still resonate on a beautiful day in June.

An epilogue,
I made this visit to Paris alone because my husband doesn't like big cities. I had spent the last year taking care of my dog that I loved so much. He was blind and had dog' Alzheimer's (canine cognitive syndrome) and died
I was so down so when an online Friend (beatchick) called and said go to Paris, I found myself saying yes even though, I was scheduled to go to France in August/Sept. Well, fate does take control. After I retiurned, we adopted a new dog from a shelter, a mini poodle I named Pastis, he was devoted to me the first weeks but-my husband was diagnosed with a rare cancer, France trip had to be cancelled. After 21 days my Jerry was home and from that day on Pastis has NEVER left his side. I now live at Broke-Bark Mountai. The good news is, we can return to France in September.

Fantastic.

Mimi, your tales of meeting friends had a nice ring for me.

I visited Paris with a loosley formed group about 10 years ago, over a Thanksgiving (a perfect time to go). Five of us arrived on the same flight from NYC, but only 3 went to the same hotel, the one couple preferring to go a little upscale for the trip. (Turned out they created their daughter in that room, so it was money well invested!)

The first night we joined other friends who were leaving soon for Belgium, and had a great dinner together. Next day, another couple and one more single arrived to join the band. By the weekend we also had met up with a Parisian acquaintance. It was so much fun to have a range of companions - someone to tour bars in the Marais with, someone to hit Clingancourt with on Sunday morning - and best of all, someone to keep company with whomever you were growing tired of! Just like life.

You're my kind of brave traveler - I know you two will enjoy your trip in September as much as any you've ever taken.
Tom

What part of France are you planning to go to in September? I'll look forward to reading about it.

We also put our dog to sleep in October then ended up with a new puppy in December.

Topping for those travelling to Paris, like moi.

Thingorjus

thanks thinny for topping this.
tomas, We never made it to Provence last year. My husband died the week before Christmas.

Just found this thread...great read!!! Thank you!

(bookmarking for future enjoyment)

Bookmarking.

Cigalechanta, Your lovely TR popped up as I looked for Paris/Provence inspiration. Going in Sept. for 2 weeks and am armed with wonderful info for Paris thanks to you.

Please accept my condolences in the loss of your DH.

Unasked for advice to all, do as much as you can now-don't put off travel. Life is shoooorrrrttt. Allons-y!

To cigalechanta----I am so sorry to hear that your husband died. I knew that he had been sick, but when I saw no further information, I assumed he had recovered. Please accept my condolences.

What a great review! really enjoyed it.
We are heading to Paris Sept.8th to 17th. Usually go for 2-3 wks. and train it to another part of France, but because of the weak $ we're limiting it to just Paris for 10 days.
Thanks for some good ideas. Last year our luggage was also misplaced, and we spent 3 wks. with just our carry-ons. Washer-dryer in our apartment was a big help. Now this year we will take just carry-ons. It was nice not having so much "stuff".

Mimi, did you dine at Gaya because it is next door to Deyrolle?

Thin

Bookmarking for my trip in October.

No, I dined there because it had recently opened to great reviews.

Thank you, Mimi for the photos of Deyrolle. My email is acting screwy so I didn't email you back.

Thin

What a great trip report! Bookmarking for our trip next year. Thanks!

topping fot lola

almost 2 years later...
i found this as i was researching paris info for my upcoming trip in april.
what a wonderful find.
cig, love your style of writing.
so sorry about dh.
i hope 2008 was a better year for you with pastis.