Choosing a base in Tuscany for a return visit...

Hi

My wife and I stayed outside Castellina in Chianti when we went there last summer. Here is my trip report with pictures and links: http://gardkarlsen.com/tuscany_italy_travelogue.htm Maybe you can find some useful information there

Regards
Gard
http://gardkarlsen.com - trip reports and pictures

Take a look at the map here: http://www.big-italy-map.co.uk/map-of-toscana-map.htm.
As for an idea of the scale, Grosseto-Siena is some 80 km. I find this a maximum one way distance for a day trip.

The San-Gimignano-Siena-Volterra triangle is a very good option.
May will not be that crowded, occassionnaly on some long weekends. If you really want to play sure, some closer to Massa Marittima.

There is also the Pistoia-Montecatine-Lucca region which is beautiful.

The San G option is a good one.

With the other option, I suggest an all-Umbris itinerary. Base in Spello instead of Cortona and day trip to Assisi and the numerous scenic towns in that area.

Hi H,

I had the same thought as Tuck, Umbria based in Spello. Palazzo Bocci is wonderful, the views from Spello gorgeous, lots of flowers. It's such a tiny town and quite untouristed. Il Mulino is an excellent restaurant across from the Palazzo Bocci. Easy short drives to Assisi, Montefalco, Bevegna.

I dropped my car at the Foligno train station to continue on to Rome. Very easy.

Thanks for everyone's input thus far. There are some interesting ideas here... definitely itineraries I hadn't considered.

I'm also relieved to hear that May won't bring swarms of people into the San Gim area should we end up there.

If anyone else has other ideas or comments on these (or other) possibilities, I'd love to hear them.

Thanks!

hlocke1,

This is a bit of a thread hijack, but I am trying to decide on a Tuscany base for about 4 nights in early April, and I'd love to hear about your Montalcino experience.

We are probably deciding among Siena, Montalcino, Montepulciano, Pienza, or Lucca. It will be my wife, 15 year-old daughter and me. Generally we're hoping to find a town where we can easily experience some local culture, but not too big or small. Also would like to easily be able to get to Florence and other hilltowns (we'll have a car).

Thanks, Ken.

Hi kencot --

I felt like Montalcino was just right when it came to size, crowds, and things to do. We had plenty of dining options and could easily walk around in the evening to relax.

Montepulciano are Siena are bigger in comparison (especially Siena). Pienza, on the other hand, felt tinier than Montalcino to me. From our base in Montalcino, we were able to easily visit all of these spots by car in an hour and a half or less. Based on what you've said here, I would suggest either staying there, or trying Montepulciano (for a slightly larger option that isn't overwhelming).

Good luck!

Looking forward to hearing more thoughts on my original post... =)

> Also would like to easily be able to get to Florence <

We spent a week in Montalcino and took a day trip bby car to Florence. It took us about 2 hours. We parked at Piazzale Michelangelo and walked into town.

As a general answer, Tuscany and Umbria in May won't be too crowded (how's that for an unhelpful, subjective answer!), though towns like San Gimignano and Siena tend to have more visitors than other places, regardless of the time of year.

The last several times we've visited San G., it's been in early October, and while the town would be busy in the main areas during the day with tour groups, in the evening it would very much empty out (and in the early mornings, before the tour groups arrived).

On your two ideas, the San G. area is beautiful too, though you might find it a little TOO similar to the areas you've already visited, if you want to experience something a little different (but just as wonderful).

Cortona is either on the edge of Umbria, or actually IN Umbria (can't remember, and too lazy to check). In any event, it's closer to many beautiful locations in Umbria. So if you stay in Cortona, you may want to focus more on Umbria - Assisi, Montefalco, Spello, Bevagna, Gubbio are some possibilities.

We haven't ever stayed overnight in Montalcino, so I can't compare any of those locations specifically to Montalcino in terms of a place to stay, and whether you'll have the same sense of intimacy. San G. is more like Montalcino in terms of the number of stores and restaurants, if that's part of what you're looking for. As I recall, Cortona is a little smaller, and has fewer stores and restaurants, but is a fun town as well. It depends on how days/nights you'll spend in your chosen destination.

I have to agree with Gard (I swear he follows my footsteps)! The La Torre Antica Trattoria is a fabulous place to eat. We stayed in Valiagli which had a spectacular view of the valley. There are Etruscan sites in the area which are interesting and stimulate your imagination.
Another great area is around Lago Trasimeno. You are near the Highway and connections to several towns which you want to visit and revisit are easy to get to. Cetona is a very small town with a fabulous Ristorante Sobborgo. http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/mare_cetona.htm

I actually found a site that shows the restaurant!http://www.officinadelgusto.it/download/DeliziartiCetona.pdf
Amazing!

Lexma -- Thank you for your input. It's very, very helpful!

John -- Thanks for sending along the restaurant link--looks like you dug up a magazine before it went to print! I certainly can imagine following our stomachs after reading your recommendations.

Any other input? I'd love to hear more thoughts! Are there any other small towns around the San Gim area that we could visit? Should we consider staying in Volterra instead if we head to this area? Thanks!!!

I was my impression that most of the small towns are jewels in the rough. I stayed at a villa in Palazone (which isn't on any map I've seen). My sister booked it so I can't help. The bakery (actually in a Feed store), butcher etc. had no signs, just doorways! Is this a three week trip? If so, I like your plan. Cortona would only be a day trip for me. Do check out Citta della Pieve. I only spent a short time there on the way back from Assisi and my impression was that it smelled like money! Very artsy town. cittadellapieve.org

Now there's a Bakery in Deruta that has the coldest beer in Umbria! LOL!
I went wild with the pasteries for dinner that evening. Oh my God...I want to go back. If you visit Montalcino again, forget the Entocea's and go up the street to the Coop. Good selection of wines also...they have Truffle Salsa which will make your day..garuanteed!

Hi hlocke1. Sounds like you have been to some wonderful places in Tuscany. I was there last summer, late July/early August. My daughter was in a voice program in Greve-in Chianti, which is a lovely town about 45 mimn to 1 hour south of Florence. I visited Cortona as well as Lake Trasimeno and Castiglione del Lago and I think it would be fun to take the drive around the lake, possibly even stay overnight at the hotel that is on the island. I started reading something about this in Frances Mays' book Bella Tuscany, which is a wonderful resource for delightful places in Tuscany. I was in San Gimignano in August and it was really crowded, much like Siena. Wanted to go to Volterra but got started too late in the day to make it there and back to Greve. Much further than I thought. I'm headed back this summer and would like to plan an overnight trip around Lago Trasimeno. Would love to hear what you decide to do. Are you flying into Florence? Buon viaggio!

On your question about Volterra, that location may be too far out of the way for easy day trip to many other destinations. I do really like Volterra, though. In comparison to San G., I find the buildings, etc., more austere. Fewer tourists - relatively speaking - but still a lot during the day. There's a very good Etruscan museum in Volterra, and great ruins of a Roman amphitheatre on the north end of town. Sadly, not enough tourists walk up there to visit it, which happily makes for a better experience for those of us who do!

We've stayed in San G. several times, and we've enjoyed visiting the following small cities and small towns: Certaldo, Vinci, Monteriggioni, Siena, Volterra, Colle di Valle d'Elsa (though this town has never clicked with me); and probably others too. On our last trip, we wanted to visit some new places. We made a nice drive down to Casole d'Elsa, a charming, non-touristy small town to the south; another nearby smaller town that's worth a stop and a walk around is Radicondoli. That town is also the home of a well-known restaurant, La Pergola (it was closed the day we were there).

We also spent the morning taking a walk/hike to a ruined village, just outside San G., called Castelvecchio. You pick up the trail (there are signs) just outside the hamlet of San Donato.

Our favorite restaurant in San G. is Ristorante Dorando, a member of the Slow Food movement, which serves modern twists on traditional cuisine. We also enjoy La Terrazza, which is in Hotel la Cisterna, also very good, and if you're eating while it's light, has fantastic views over the countryside. (If you stay at la Cisterna, you get those views for breakfast, too!)

http://www.ristorantedorando.it/eng/chi.html
Tears are streaming down my cheeks as I look over the menu Lex!

Hi again, everyone --

John -- Thank you again for all of your comments. The links and details are very helpful and I will certainly file them away.

kk -- We are actually starting this trip in Venice and ending it in Lake Como (flying out of Milan). It sounds like you had a nice trip to Greve and I think we might try to consider heading through that area for a bit. Good luck as you continue to plan your upcoming trip!

Lexma -- I am feeling more settled about our original plan to go to San Gim thanks to your input. The list of small towns your provided will be a great starting point as I dive further into my research... thanks again!!!

http://www.borgoilpoggiaccio.it/ristorante_en.htm

Have to thank Lex too for this one. I'm taking a friend to Italy and am compiling some different options, and like you am returning to towns and locals I like which have good road access. Gard's google map is a winner and I'll be making good use of that. I used it on my recent trip to Spain for a month and it was invaluable.

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Dorando is great. And in addition, it's an appealing interior and a relaxing ambiance. Because it's on a little back street, even for a touristy town like San G., it's not overrun.

To make you drool again, another restaurant we loved is La Chiusa, located in Montefollonico (it's a hotel/inn too). Unfortunately, it's pretty far from San Gimignano, but if you're in the area, it's wonderful as well.

Oh goodness! I'm now getting a bit eager to start making my "must eat" lists.

Thanks again!

We have been to the Tuscany area a few times and go with Untours. We stay in and around Montalcino. A lovely little town Buonconvento has a quiet atmosphere and some lovely places to stay. Be sure and attend the markets in the local hill towns.

cayman

Seveal years ago, we stayed at Volpaia, a hamlet a few miles south of Panzano. There is easy access to Florence and a good base from which to tour Tuscany. The accomodations were apartments. The scenery and surrounding countryside were beautiful and you could see Radda across the valley perched on a hilltop.

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