Can you help me plan two weeks in September, please?
Apr 16th, 2012, 06:07 PM
#1
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Can you help me plan two weeks in September, please?
We are making our first trip to Ireland this September, flying in and out of Dublin due to points availability. Our plan is to pick up a car, head out, and leave 2 or 3 nights for Dublin at the end. I would really appreciate any help with planning, as I'm a bit overwhelmed with all the possibilities. We have 15 days, including the morning we arrive.
We're interested in ruins, history, amazing scenery, some hiking and/or cycling, pretty villages, charming people, and romantic castles. We have absolutely no desire to see the countryside whizzing by from the car window, preferring to while away an afternoon or two or three at a pub or cafe.
Since this is our first trip to Ireland, we'd like to see as many of the "money shots" as possible while enjoying an easy pace. I've identified as a preliminary list Cliffs of Moher, Burren, Dingle, Ring of Kerry, Cashel, Glendalough, Connemara, Killarney, possibly Arran. No interest in Blarney or Limerick.
We prefer to spend 2 or more nights in a base, rather than moving every morning. This is where I'm really stumped - where to stay (Kenmare sounds charming) and how long in each place.
Also, for $200 I can change our tickets to add another couple of days if we're seriously short of time. Of course, then I might have to add Belfast and Carrickfergus, which I'd love to see.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
We're interested in ruins, history, amazing scenery, some hiking and/or cycling, pretty villages, charming people, and romantic castles. We have absolutely no desire to see the countryside whizzing by from the car window, preferring to while away an afternoon or two or three at a pub or cafe.
Since this is our first trip to Ireland, we'd like to see as many of the "money shots" as possible while enjoying an easy pace. I've identified as a preliminary list Cliffs of Moher, Burren, Dingle, Ring of Kerry, Cashel, Glendalough, Connemara, Killarney, possibly Arran. No interest in Blarney or Limerick.
We prefer to spend 2 or more nights in a base, rather than moving every morning. This is where I'm really stumped - where to stay (Kenmare sounds charming) and how long in each place.
Also, for $200 I can change our tickets to add another couple of days if we're seriously short of time. Of course, then I might have to add Belfast and Carrickfergus, which I'd love to see.
Any help or advice would be much appreciated.
Apr 17th, 2012, 01:49 AM
#2
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Add the 2 nights.
Land Dublin and Go North for the start. Then Galway as a base for Connemara, Arans and Burren/Cliffs. Use Killarney as a base for Dingle and the rest of Kerry, or drive Dingle on the way to Kenmare. Then past Cashel on the way to Kilkenny for Glendalough on the way to Dublin.
I suppose with the length of time you have and as you are seeing a good bit of the other 99.6% of the Island you can spend a couple of nights on the 0.4% that is Dingle.
Land Dublin and Go North for the start. Then Galway as a base for Connemara, Arans and Burren/Cliffs. Use Killarney as a base for Dingle and the rest of Kerry, or drive Dingle on the way to Kenmare. Then past Cashel on the way to Kilkenny for Glendalough on the way to Dublin.
I suppose with the length of time you have and as you are seeing a good bit of the other 99.6% of the Island you can spend a couple of nights on the 0.4% that is Dingle.
Apr 17th, 2012, 04:45 AM
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Your preliminary list is very similar to the path we followed on our recent trip. My trip report (in progress) is a few topics down at the moment. We had 14 days including travel days to/from Dublin. Our itinerary was Cashel(2 nights), Dingle (2 nights), Killarney (3 nights), and Galway (5 nights).
Tony2phones has a good route, and I agree Galway was the perfect base for visiting the Cliffs, Connemara, and Inis Mor. Cashel was a good first stop for us coming off an overnight flight, but if you're only interested in visiting the Rock I wouldn't plan to spend much time there.
Yes, Dingle is only a small proportion of Ireland, but, personally, I fell in love with it. Some of that may be circumstantial as we had perfect weather for exploring Slea Head and happened upon a really great trad session one night. In fact, I enjoyed Slea Head drive more than Ring of Kerry, but you can do your own research there- many different opinions! I also enjoyed the Gap of Dunloe tour more than ROK from Killarney as well, if it is something you might be interested in.
As we had similar ideas to yours, I'll also add- while we rarely felt rushed, our itinerary was pretty full. We tried to keep our 'relocation' days unscheduled (which mostly worked out), which was great, but our activities definitely took most of our time. That was fine for us, but you mention whiling away some afternoons, so keep that in mind when you're planning. I also agree with you to try and have more than one night in a location- packing up and moving around too much would get tiring fast.
Tony2phones has a good route, and I agree Galway was the perfect base for visiting the Cliffs, Connemara, and Inis Mor. Cashel was a good first stop for us coming off an overnight flight, but if you're only interested in visiting the Rock I wouldn't plan to spend much time there.
Yes, Dingle is only a small proportion of Ireland, but, personally, I fell in love with it. Some of that may be circumstantial as we had perfect weather for exploring Slea Head and happened upon a really great trad session one night. In fact, I enjoyed Slea Head drive more than Ring of Kerry, but you can do your own research there- many different opinions! I also enjoyed the Gap of Dunloe tour more than ROK from Killarney as well, if it is something you might be interested in.
As we had similar ideas to yours, I'll also add- while we rarely felt rushed, our itinerary was pretty full. We tried to keep our 'relocation' days unscheduled (which mostly worked out), which was great, but our activities definitely took most of our time. That was fine for us, but you mention whiling away some afternoons, so keep that in mind when you're planning. I also agree with you to try and have more than one night in a location- packing up and moving around too much would get tiring fast.
Apr 17th, 2012, 12:59 PM
#4
Original Poster
Thanks to both of you for your replies.
Tony, I'm not clear on what your last paragraph re Dingle means?
Could you flesh out a little for me how many nights you would suggest for Galway.
Megan, I've enjoyed reading your trip report and comments - lots of really good information.
Is it realistic to see Killarney, RoK, Dingle from one base,(if so where) or better to stay in the Dingle area for 2 or 3 nights and spend another 2 or 3 in or near Killarney, possibly Kenmare. While I understand the distances aren't that considerable as the crow flies, I'm unclear how it all actually practically works, given the roads and traffic. I'm leaning towards two locations in addition to Galway, given the roads and doubling back aspect of staying in just one place.
I have heard many, many wonderful things about Dingle, in fact many people seem to prefer it to RoK.
How does this sound as a rough first draft:
Belfast 1
Galway 5
Dingle 3
Killarney, RoK, 3
Kilkenny 1
Dublin 3
If we're there 15 nights I'll likely drop Belfast, if we stay the extra 2, perhaps add another night to Northern Ireland.
Too much moving around?
Tony, I'm not clear on what your last paragraph re Dingle means?
Could you flesh out a little for me how many nights you would suggest for Galway.
Megan, I've enjoyed reading your trip report and comments - lots of really good information.
Is it realistic to see Killarney, RoK, Dingle from one base,(if so where) or better to stay in the Dingle area for 2 or 3 nights and spend another 2 or 3 in or near Killarney, possibly Kenmare. While I understand the distances aren't that considerable as the crow flies, I'm unclear how it all actually practically works, given the roads and traffic. I'm leaning towards two locations in addition to Galway, given the roads and doubling back aspect of staying in just one place.
I have heard many, many wonderful things about Dingle, in fact many people seem to prefer it to RoK.
How does this sound as a rough first draft:
Belfast 1
Galway 5
Dingle 3
Killarney, RoK, 3
Kilkenny 1
Dublin 3
If we're there 15 nights I'll likely drop Belfast, if we stay the extra 2, perhaps add another night to Northern Ireland.
Too much moving around?
Apr 17th, 2012, 03:10 PM
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I have a slight problem with Dingle..Yes some of the scenery is quite good but it draws tourists like a jam trap draws hornets. If Rick Steves was not such a big fan of the place he would probably describe the peninsular rather cruelly as Ireland does Disney. A phrase he uses for a perfectly reasonable place he doesn't like.
I would definitely leave a couple of days in the north.
Galway is a great place as a base for The Aran;s Connemara, and the Burren but 4 nights is enough.
Dingle deserves one or two nights
I would then use Kenmare for 3 nights to cover the Ring of Kerry and the Cork peninsula's
Then its a case of how you get back to Dublin, Either via the Coast or cross country,
I would have a couple of nights in Kilkenny calling at Cashel on the way then on by Glendalough.
Any extra days could be added to any base,
I would definitely leave a couple of days in the north.
Galway is a great place as a base for The Aran;s Connemara, and the Burren but 4 nights is enough.
Dingle deserves one or two nights
I would then use Kenmare for 3 nights to cover the Ring of Kerry and the Cork peninsula's
Then its a case of how you get back to Dublin, Either via the Coast or cross country,
I would have a couple of nights in Kilkenny calling at Cashel on the way then on by Glendalough.
Any extra days could be added to any base,
Apr 17th, 2012, 03:26 PM
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Tony2phones wrote: "I have a slight problem with Dingle."
Just to give you another point of view: this Irish native doesn't. But I have the advantage of being Irish, and knowing how Irish people function. That means that my Dingle differs from that which is experienced by the majority of visitors (not all of them: some visitors "get it").
But whether you get it or not, the scenery is magnificient. The first sight of the Blasket Islands as you come round Slea Head is magic (unless the clouds are down, when you might see nothing).
Just to give you another point of view: this Irish native doesn't. But I have the advantage of being Irish, and knowing how Irish people function. That means that my Dingle differs from that which is experienced by the majority of visitors (not all of them: some visitors "get it").
But whether you get it or not, the scenery is magnificient. The first sight of the Blasket Islands as you come round Slea Head is magic (unless the clouds are down, when you might see nothing).
Apr 17th, 2012, 05:31 PM
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Padraig, I'm curious what one has to feel/experience to 'get it'. I don't want to turn the thread into a Dingle controversy though! As for Rick Steves, all I know from him is the name. We did run into some tourists at a couple of our B&Bs who said "We're following Rick Steves" or "You must follow Rick Steves to have found this place", lol. Nah, I did my own research and consulted many different sources, thanks. I digress...
sugar: I would recommend staying in Dingle. Killarney is a realistic base, but I would estimate 1-2hrs to reach the peninsula, then a solid afternoon touring Slea Head. We really took our time there and devoted most of the day. I wouldn't want to then make the drive back, but that's me.
I can't really comment on the north as I didn't even research it, but otherwise your rough draft looks ok. 3 days in Killarney was a minimum for me- I would have liked more, actually, specifically to explore the National Park more. Again, it comes back to what you wish to accomplish. You don't want to have too rigid a schedule planned out, but do think about what you might want to do/see, how long you may need to do/see it, travel time, etc. And, yes, driving time was hard to predict for us too. That's why I tried to leave our relocation days relatively open, and for big drive days like Slea Head or ROK we devoted a whole day.
sugar: I would recommend staying in Dingle. Killarney is a realistic base, but I would estimate 1-2hrs to reach the peninsula, then a solid afternoon touring Slea Head. We really took our time there and devoted most of the day. I wouldn't want to then make the drive back, but that's me.
I can't really comment on the north as I didn't even research it, but otherwise your rough draft looks ok. 3 days in Killarney was a minimum for me- I would have liked more, actually, specifically to explore the National Park more. Again, it comes back to what you wish to accomplish. You don't want to have too rigid a schedule planned out, but do think about what you might want to do/see, how long you may need to do/see it, travel time, etc. And, yes, driving time was hard to predict for us too. That's why I tried to leave our relocation days relatively open, and for big drive days like Slea Head or ROK we devoted a whole day.
Apr 18th, 2012, 03:50 AM
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Megan, I'd like to be able to answer your question in a helpful way, but it's a tall order.
I can generally tune in pretty well with other Irish people, and they will regard me as "one of us" rather than as "one of them". That's the result of a lifetime's experience, not an art that I have mastered.
People vary. Some Irish people can not tune in with the ease that I generally can. That's no reflection on them; it's just part of the rich variety of human life. On the other hand, I have also seen some non-Irish people find the wavelength (and it looks to me as if some people posting here have managed it, but I'm not naming names for fear of giving offence).
It has little to do with being a good person, or being nice. A B&B owner might remark to me "Those American/Italian/French people are really lovely" but I'll be the one drinking tea in her kitchen (I much prefer coffee, but the presumption that I share her liking for tea is part of of the package of identifying with one another).
When I travel outside Ireland, I'm an outsider.
I can generally tune in pretty well with other Irish people, and they will regard me as "one of us" rather than as "one of them". That's the result of a lifetime's experience, not an art that I have mastered.
People vary. Some Irish people can not tune in with the ease that I generally can. That's no reflection on them; it's just part of the rich variety of human life. On the other hand, I have also seen some non-Irish people find the wavelength (and it looks to me as if some people posting here have managed it, but I'm not naming names for fear of giving offence).
It has little to do with being a good person, or being nice. A B&B owner might remark to me "Those American/Italian/French people are really lovely" but I'll be the one drinking tea in her kitchen (I much prefer coffee, but the presumption that I share her liking for tea is part of of the package of identifying with one another).
When I travel outside Ireland, I'm an outsider.
Apr 18th, 2012, 05:05 AM
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Megan..no problem with your response at all.
I don't want to get into the Dingle thing. My views are well known on other forum's. (I have though heard rumours that pages 185-206 of McCartys Bar are to be translated into Irish so no one can read them
)
I don't want to get into the Dingle thing. My views are well known on other forum's. (I have though heard rumours that pages 185-206 of McCartys Bar are to be translated into Irish so no one can read them
)
Apr 18th, 2012, 08:19 AM
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Padraig, that makes perfect sense. I just wondered if you were referring to anything specific about the location, or how one travels in general. I found it very easy to 'adapt' to Irish culture, and not just because I'm already a tea drinker! I just felt very at ease. Though no doubt I said or did things that labeled me 'outsider' as well. Very interesting discussion, though I hope I haven't derailed the original post too much!
Apr 18th, 2012, 10:57 AM
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We had 8 days and therefore limited ourselves to Killarney, Dingle and Galway. Photos and blog if that helps (sounds like you have a good idea already):
http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/ireland.html
http://ukfrey.blogspot.co.uk/2011/08/ireland.html
Apr 18th, 2012, 11:21 AM
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Here is a thought. We stayed at a fantastic cottage west of Shannon near the little village of Ballyhahill. The cottage is way beyond better than the description and pictures. It is an absolute bargain, one of the best I've ever found.
http://www.hazelcottageireland.com/
Anyway, what really made it work is that it is very centrally located to drive to many of the major locations throughout SW Ireland. The ferry across the Shannon is close, you can easily do the Cliffs, Enis, Dingle, Kerry, etc. while keeping a great central location.
dave
http://www.hazelcottageireland.com/
Anyway, what really made it work is that it is very centrally located to drive to many of the major locations throughout SW Ireland. The ferry across the Shannon is close, you can easily do the Cliffs, Enis, Dingle, Kerry, etc. while keeping a great central location.
dave
Apr 18th, 2012, 12:36 PM
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Hello Sugarmaple
I see you have already got alot of great advise and I hope you have a wonderful time in Ireland. I would agree that the west coast of Ireland has the most to offer, from heritage to senery. Dingle is a great place, Kenmare equally good.
My speciality of course is North Clare and Doolin which I believe would be a great place for you to base yourself. You have some of the best pubs in Ireland with live music and atmosphere every night of the week, namely O'Connors, McGanns and McDermots.
Doolin is a small village that has alot to offer. For instance you can walk up to the Cliffs of Moher (they only start 250meters from our door step.) You can take boat trips over to the Aran Islands (Inishear is about 25minutes) or a cruise under the Cliffs of Moher.
Go to Doolin Cave with the largest stalacticte in Europe,or visit Aillwee Cave and their birds or prey. Explore the Burren, take a Heritage walk of which there are many, and discover the many Castles, Ring Forts and Methalic tombs such as the Dolmen that outdate the Pyramids by a 1000 years.
And if you are into food, you have some great restuarants, farmers markets and food producers such as Burren Smoke Salmon, Kilshanny Cheese, Clare Jam company to name only a few.
Galway is an 1 1/2 hour drive, Limerick 1 hour. Bunratty Castle and Folk Park 45minutes.
And if you are into activities and the outdoors you are spoilt for choice with professional providers from Sea Kayaking along the most beautiful coastline, Learning to Surf in Lahinch, Horse riding through the Burren, Some of the best Bouldering in Ireland overlooking Galway bay. Or take it more leisurly with Fishing, Hiking, Biking.
Hope you have a wonderful holiday.
Anthony Moloney
Doolin Hostel
I see you have already got alot of great advise and I hope you have a wonderful time in Ireland. I would agree that the west coast of Ireland has the most to offer, from heritage to senery. Dingle is a great place, Kenmare equally good.
My speciality of course is North Clare and Doolin which I believe would be a great place for you to base yourself. You have some of the best pubs in Ireland with live music and atmosphere every night of the week, namely O'Connors, McGanns and McDermots.
Doolin is a small village that has alot to offer. For instance you can walk up to the Cliffs of Moher (they only start 250meters from our door step.) You can take boat trips over to the Aran Islands (Inishear is about 25minutes) or a cruise under the Cliffs of Moher.
Go to Doolin Cave with the largest stalacticte in Europe,or visit Aillwee Cave and their birds or prey. Explore the Burren, take a Heritage walk of which there are many, and discover the many Castles, Ring Forts and Methalic tombs such as the Dolmen that outdate the Pyramids by a 1000 years.
And if you are into food, you have some great restuarants, farmers markets and food producers such as Burren Smoke Salmon, Kilshanny Cheese, Clare Jam company to name only a few.
Galway is an 1 1/2 hour drive, Limerick 1 hour. Bunratty Castle and Folk Park 45minutes.
And if you are into activities and the outdoors you are spoilt for choice with professional providers from Sea Kayaking along the most beautiful coastline, Learning to Surf in Lahinch, Horse riding through the Burren, Some of the best Bouldering in Ireland overlooking Galway bay. Or take it more leisurly with Fishing, Hiking, Biking.
Hope you have a wonderful holiday.
Anthony Moloney
Doolin Hostel
