Sounds like this will be a good one. Great start. Looking forward to the rest. I sympathize with the problems of finding decent Yurga cuisine these days. Sometimes you just can't go home again.

Great start--give us more !

Looking forward to this!

a cliffhanger already?

In and out of London

It was at the airport en route to London that we unexpectedly faced the first of many difficult gastronomic decisions-- to eat dinner before boarding the plane or on board. As we stared at each other, paralyzed with indecision, since there is a good case to be made for both strategies, I timidly enquired whether we could do both. Problem solved. We didn't quite stick to our agreement to just snack a tiny bit in the lounge and had to modify it to "don't eat too much. " After two ample dinners each, and accompanying spirits, sleep came easily.

Our flight arrived into London a little early and we headed off for the arrivals lounge to have some breakfast. We briefly discussed taking showers but decided that we would defer them until we arrived at our B&B near Derby. After all London is a big city and we'd just get dusty all over again by the time we arrived in Derby. Our first destination was the St. Pancras train station, from where we would catch a train.

Before leaving I had reserved train tickets to Derby on the East Midland trains:
http://www.eastmidlandstrains.co.uk/
I was amazed at the big difference in cost between advance booking a ticket on a particular train for a given day or booking an anytime ticket good for a month. Even with advance booking the more flexible ticket was more than twice as expensive. The difference in cost was large enough for us to select an outbound train on the day of our arrival into London and take the chance that we'd have to scrap the ticket if we were delayed and would have to buy a much more expensive one. Derby is only a little over an hour from St. Pancras but the train fare is quite expensive. An anytime second class roundtrip ticket would have been 140 pounds for two, while we paid 70 pounds for a first class specific-train ticket for two.

Before leaving I wisely consulted the Tube schedule on http://www.tfl.gov.uk and noted that work was planned between Heathrow and Kings Cross that morning and we'd have to take a free shuttle bus to Acton Town and catch the Tube there. Since we were traveling only with carryon bags the transfers were not much a problem, especially since it was Saturday morning and there was plenty of room. At Acton Town we made a quick stop for some espresso at the corner diner, since Bruce was complaining of a headache which I attributed to not enough coffee in the system. Although the coffee was poor, it was a strong enough placebo to cure Bruce.

At St. Pancras we had no trouble retrieving our reserved train tickets from a machine. The problem was in figuring out what the seven tickets corresponded to. Once we sorted out that some were reservations, some tickets, and one receipt, we were ready to board, although our conservatively selected train didn't leave for another three hours. But we had a plan-- the British Library is across the street from St. Pancras. I knew there was luggage storage at the train station but I didn't realize it costs eight pounds a bag. That seemed a ridiculous amount to pay for someone to tend our well-behaved bags. We decided that they could accompany us to the British Library since there's bag storage there as well and it's free to visitors. The only disadvantage to this strategy was the security check at the door. My checker settled on just a quick peek in my purse. Bruce had to unlock his bag but it wasn't searched.

The British Library is a worthy destination for an hour or two, even for people with no immediate scholarly aspirations. We amused ourselves by checking out the special exhibit on maps, the permanent collection, the book stacks, and of course, both cafes. Fortunately we remembered to retrieve our luggage from the lockers and returned to the mega-mall at St. Pancras for a light lunch at Le Pain Quotidien. That took care of the remaining time before departure to Derby.

(I'll skip our three-night stay visiting friends. The tourist highlights were: spending a day on a canal boat, seeing Joseph Wright's "The Philosopher and the Orrery" in the Derby art gallery, and visiting the cathedral and Samuel Johnson's house and museum in Lichfield. http://www.samueljohnsonbirthplace.org.uk )

Hadn't heard from you in some time -- glad you're back!

Me, too!

Thanks for the encouragment. Julie and eks--thanks for all the great info you posted on Piedmont. I made great use of it, although I did feel guility, like a kid copying "the brain's" homework.

Back to London

Our return train trip from Derby went smoothly. From the Kings Cross stop we caught the Victoria line to Victoria station and walked over to our hotel, the Park Plaza Victoria http://www.parkplaza.com. Since we were only spending two nights in London and had to catch an early flight from Gatwick bound for Naples I wanted a hotel close to Victoria Station from where the Gatwick Express leaves.

I had started checking prices for London hotels shortly after we bought the plane tickets. Prices seemed much higher than for previous trips so I kept delaying booking a hotel, anticipating the last minute price drop which never came. Despite attempts at priceline and a variety of last-minute sites that people here recommended I couldn't find a well priced decent centrally located 4* hotel. I even looked at well-located and -reviewed B&Bs but they were full. The news that London was preparing not only for our arrival but the Pope's as well, made me realize that I was out of luck trying to find a deal. We ended up booking the Park Plaza on its website since none of the discount sites had lower prices. It turned out to be a clean, well-operated chain hotel with free Wi-Fi in the lobby but much too expensive for what it delivered. That's London.

Quite out of character, Bruce had researched various possibilities and made dinner reservations at About Thyme, not far from our hotel http://www.aboutthyme.co.uk. It was an excellent choice. To accompany our wine we had octopus, piquillo peppers with smoked paprika and red pepper sauce, and the special of roast pig. The food and service were great and the prices were reasonable for London. On the way back from dinner we picked up some mineral water and headed back to the hotel, albeit initially in the wrong direction.

Our overpriced hotel reservations didn't include breakfast so we went across the street to Pret a Manger where we made a breakfast of muffins and egg sandwiches. London was getting ready for the Pope, who had been visiting the Queen in Scotland, and the papers were full of negative stories. It didn't help that one of the cardinals was quoted as saying that stepping off the plane at LHR was like entering a third-world country...

Bruce was determined to continue his visitation of Joseph Wright (of Derby) paintings so we set off for the National Gallery to admire his An Experiment on a Bird in the Air Pump. (Historians of science have their quirks... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/An_Experiment_on_a_Bird_in_the_Air_Pump ) Of course we had to revisit another old favorite, Holbein's The Ambassadors, as well. I was very impressed by how well the staff knew their holdings. Without consulting her computer the woman at the information desk was able to tell us exactly where to find the paintings of interest.

After leaving the National Gallery, a leisurely stroll through Covent Gardens led us to the Palm Court Brasserie where we stopped for a light, but expensive, lunch of wine, oysters and brie. We don't buy into the "light lunch" propaganda but today we knew we would have an early dinner at North Sea after our visit to the British Museum. (We're not early dinner fans either, but since North Sea is in the vicinity of the British Museum it was geographically prudent to go to dinner after the museum instead of retracing our steps back to the hotel and then heading out again.) Numerous visits to the British Museum haven't diminished our enthusiasm so we spent a good part of the afternoon visiting old favorites and poking around to see the fate of the scientific instruments that had been on display previously.

I wanted to buy a good guide book to Turin, one of our upcoming stops, so between the Museum and dinner we unsuccessfully searched local book stores. My theory that the guidebook selection would be better in London than in the USA because London is closer to Turin was firmly disproved. Several bookstores yielded the same slim guide. They didn't even carry the Cadogan guide which was traveling with us and no doubt eager to finally actually be in Piedmont.

Who knows where the "best" fish and chips are dished out in London but we've grown fond of North Sea and enjoy their haddock and chips dinners http://www.northseafishrestaurant.co.uk. After debating whether we should get one large fish platter and split it or get two regular ones, we ordered individual platters with a bottle of Chardonnay. Once again they delivered a tasty meal for two. (No doubt part of our loyalty to North Sea can be attributed to our ability to find it easily on return visits.)

Since we had to catch an early flight to Naples we decided to take the Tube back to the hotel. Well, maybe we would walk just a little. Just a little turned into all of the way back to the hotel on foot. Turns out that three miles, especially if you can stop off at a pub on the way back, isn't really that long, although our feet were beginning to rebel. This wasn't going to be much of a vacation for feet and stomaches.

Early the next morning we walked over to Victoria Station, bought our tickets for the Gatwick Express, took it to Gatwick, and sat down in the B.A. lounge to wait for our delayed flight to Naples to depart. Unlike Heathrow there wasn't a hot breakfast available. But breakfast didn't matter--we were on our way to Naples to witness the regularly scheduled miracle of St. Gennaro.

When we were in England in the '70s, we lived on steak and kidney pies, pork pies, chocolate bars, and cheap wine (starving students). I loved the pies and made them often after we returned home. On recent transits through London, I'm sad to say the pies aren't like they once were -- pre-made crusts with tasteless filling. I'm wondering if Mad Cow has restricted the use of kidneys since they're so close to the spinal column -- or is it the case that You Can't Go Home Again??

Why Naples?

I’d like to write that we went to Naples because we’ve always dreamt of seeing the Archaeological Museum, or because we seek out obscure artistic treasures, or because we needed to witness a miracle, but that would be a lie. We headed to Naples because it was the major Italian city that we hadn't yet been to. Twice on our way to the Amalfi coast we caught a glimpse of the mayhem on roads surrounding Naples but we were much too timid to even consider plunging into the city.

Despite its elegant seaside location with Vesuvius standing guard or, perhaps, ready to attack, Naples is hardly a beacon for tourists. The light always shines on garbage, camorristas, pickpockets and pizzas, with an occasional wave to “hidden treasures”. Since we didn’t have a vision for what to do or see in Naples we had no idea how long to stay. The first plan was to book a couple of nights somewhere in Naples and then to stay longer if we liked it or head down the Amalfi coast or to Capri if we didn’t. The disadvantage was that if we did want to stay longer we might be booted out of our hotel and forced to relocate. It also made it too easy to flee if our initial take on the city was negative. We finally decided to just book a week and give Naples a fair chance. We’ve survived, and enjoyed, Delhi so we were confident that we could deal with anything Naples would fling our way...

Settling into Naples

I read enough scary stuff about Naples that I even wore a money belt for arrival. (The thread about pick pocketing by seniors gave me pause.) In hopes of avoiding all the petty criminals we paid 20E for a prearranged airport pickup, something we seldom do. The Naples airport was a disappointment--clean, modern and, except for baggage pickup, no more chaotic than most airports we've passed through. Even though we were an hour late our driver was waiting to take us to our B&B.

I dismissed the idea of renting an apartment in Naples since we didn't want to take turns staying up all night and protecting our meager assets from the marauding bands of thieves or take the chance that, in our absence, our apartment would be annexed as a garbage dump. The owner of our local Neapolitan pizzeria, aptly named Spaccanapoli (it's the pizzeria that's Spaccanapoli, not the pizzaiolo) trained in Naples so we decided to seek his advice. Before heading out I checked the website and found his blog describing his last visit to Naples and the B&B he considers home when in Naples.

We never did make it to the pizzeria for an in person discussion but settled for the online recommendation and booked a week at the B&B Donna Regina: http://www.discovernaples.net . Including breakfast the rate was 85E per night. (Would you believe that at checkout the credit card machine was temporarily not working?) We're not B&B fans and had never stayed in one in Europe but the fuzzy notion of having a local show us the ropes was appealing. In retrospect I think we would have done just as well on our own in an apartment.

The Donna Regina is on the fourth floor of what was once a convent and now is apartments, a school, an art gallery and who knows what else. Much is made of the scruffy entrance but since we knew not to expect elegantly clad doormen it wasn't an issue. The small elevator, which always worked while we were there, deposits you a few steps from the door of the B&B. The apartment, which has five or so rooms for guests, belongs to a family of artists and their work is on display and available for purchase. The common areas (which I never saw being used by guests) are beautifully decorated and large but the entire apartment, except for the kitchen, is quite dark.

The son of the owners welcomed us, showed us our room (the red room) and then invited us back into the living room for an overview of Naples. He inspected my purse and deemed it unfit for the streets of Naples since the strap was too short to go across the chest. Besides jacking up the fear factor, it meant that I had to get a new purse since I wasn't going anywhere without all my essentials and cramming them into Bruce's pockets didn't strike me as a particularly wise alternative. The other directive was to carry only the amount of money needed for that day.

The host quickly marked the location of some restaurants on a rather poor map and mentioned some of the highlights of the city. If I hadn't done some homework on restaurants I don't think I could have deciphered what he was writing and I certainly wouldn't have been able to remember his commentary. After that we were left on our own, although the host was available to answer questions or make suggestions if asked. (I won't hold it against him that twice he recommended places that were closed that day. We ignored his advice not to make reservations but just go early.) On the second day we enquired about Wi-Fi and were given a password. I don't know why this is a "secret" feature.

Breakfast was served in the beautiful kitchen at 8:30 and never varied: a small omelet to be shared by however many guests there were, bruschetta, cornetti, bread and spreads, coffee, tea and juice. We particularly liked the tomato bruschetta and probably ate more than our share at the first breakfast where no one else showed up at opening time. From then on a small plate with four pieces was placed by our plates!

Our room was comfortable and clean, although my vision of unpacking was quickly shattered since there was only a small armoire without any shelves. We had to continue living out of our suitcases. The bathroom was reasonably large with a stand alone curtained shower. Some of the rooms have bathrooms in the hall or on a different level so we made sure to indicate when booking that we wanted an attached bathroom on the same level. The room featured killer iron bed ornaments which repeatedly attacked us until we figured out how to rig the decorative bed pillows on them for protection. Of course every morning before leaving we had to remember to undecorate the posts so the cleaning person wouldn't think us barbarians. In September we didn't need air conditioning but slept with open windows. There's a surprising amount of street noise but you can totally shut it out if you close the windows.

According to google directions, which don't take into account the number of fellow walkers, the B&B is located 4 minutes from the Duomo. The Archaeological Museum is 15 minute, Piazza Plebiscito is close to an hour walk. As a pedestrian, you don't move fast on the sidewalks of Naples--it's a different story on the streets where cars and motorcycles are accountable only to their very forgiving collective conscience. Although we walked almost everywhere, taking a taxi only for the airport and one restaurant, a more central location would have been kinder to our feet.

Love it. We're heading to Naples this winter for a week -- our first time visit, too. Keep it coming!

Great report, thanks!

We also stayed at the Donna Regina about five years ago, but just for three nights (not long enough for us in Naples).

Is the pizzeria Spaccanapoli you mentioned the one in Chicago? I've been meaning to go there for a long time, but we never seem to get up to that area. Someday...

Looking forward to more.

Really enjoying your report. Thanks!

Fantastic writing!

To the terrors of Naples we can now add dastardly metal bed ornaments and bruschetta snatchers that work in pairs!

Thanks for reading. Ms_go, Spaccanapoli is the pizzeria in Ravenswood: http://spaccanapolipizzeria.com Give it a try.
eks--we are terrors wherever we land...

Surviving on the streets of Naples--Day 1

With four massive keys safely stowed away and money belt securely fastened, we’re ready to escape our cocoon and venture on foot into the streets of Naples. Our first mission is to buy a disposable purse that will voluntarily remain in Naples after we‘ve gone, since there’s no space for extra purses when you‘re traveling with carryon only for five weeks. The B&B is very close to Via Duomo, on which perches not only the Duomo itself but also many shops and businesses. The very first store with an inexpensive purse with a long strap gets my 6E and I now have a purse I’ll be happy to leave behind. (We’re poor shoppers...) Next up is buying a SIM card. This time we’re not so lucky since, for unknown reasons, my newly unlocked dual band cell phone chokes on the card. The clerk diagnoses it as “Not unlocked for Europe, ” whatever that means. We don’t see any other phone stores around so we decide to admit defeat and try again tomorrow.

After a stop at the B&B to load up my new purse, we set out again, this time for dinner. (A quick glimpse in the mirror reminds me that buying the first purse you see may not always be a good strategy. What was I thinking?!) Although we have firm plans to sample as many pizzas as we can, and I even have a list and map of pizzerias crammed into my new purse, we decide to postpone our first visit to a dedicated pizzeria and instead have a leisurely dinner sitting outdoors.

We head down via dei Tribunali toward Piazza Dante, stopping en route at Friggitoria Di Matteo to pick up 5 pieces of frittura (fried goodies, 1E) for the walk. Naples is littered with all types of eating establishments, among them friggitoria which are just places that fry stuff--anything from tripe to zucchini and zeppole. You stand in line at a window, order and pay, and then eat your purchases, usually from a brown bag, as you walk. Bruce didn’t think it particularly wise to start eating street food on the way to dinner but I recognized the name and got into line. We both enjoyed the little fried vegetables.

Via dei Tribunali, the main east west street from ancient times (decumanus maximus), is home to many acclaimed pizzerias and soon we were in front of Sorbillo 32, currently one of the most popular establishments. The sign on the door proclaimed that due to some insults and disagreements with civic authorities Sorbillo would be closed. As we were reading the notice potential customers were arriving and leaving, despondent at their poor timing. Our hope was that it would reopen at some point during our stay. In fact, it was bustling when we walked by it after dinner. I guess some insults are quickly forgotten when there's dough at stake.

Since our plane was delayed and we hadn't had a proper lunch, our dinner reservations at Ristorante e Pizzeria Bellini were at the unfashionably early hour of 8. We arrived even earlier so we sat down outside at Intra Moenia on the lovely Piazza Bellini for a drink. Intra Moenia considers itself a literary cafe and even has its own publishing house. Inside there are small rooms, some of which have books for sale. It’s a pleasant place to sit and watch activities on the square.

Ristorante e Pizzeria Bellini http://www.ilbelliniristorante.it
was at one time a Slow Food selection, although I don’t know its current status since my copy of the book is undoubtedly a collector's edition by now. We ordered a pizza capricciosa, linguini with seafood cooked in a bag, and fish soup. The pizza was OK, not memorable by any means. The other two dishes were good but also not noteworthy. Given the early hour most customers were tourists but locals appeared as the evening progressed. Since we weren’t impressed by the offerings we decided to quit after these first courses. Of course we didn’t really quit, we just figured we should finish off the meal elsewhere. Winding our way back on Via dei Tribunali we stopped for espresso and our first real pastry, baba au rhum, at Pasticceria Mazzaro , (Via dei Tribunali 359; ; www.pasticceriamazzaro.it ) Both were excellent. Bruce pronounced the espresso one of the best he's ever had. Since we were staying in Naples for a week it made sense to stock our own after dinner drinks, so we returned to the Donna Regina accompanied by amaro and limoncello.

Very enjoyable. I loved your remarks about security. We were warned from as far away as Palermo of the pickpockets we wound encounter in the Naples train station! After we secreted all that we owned, we found more police there than anything else there!

Amazing Italy, eh?

You've had me hooked from the first sentence. Onward!

t

"would" not "wound"-oops

Taste of Naples--Day 2

Breakfast at the Donna Regina starts at 8:30 so we make sure we're there when the doors open. Why take the chance that somebody else will devour all the good stuff while you're sleeping or showering? In our best Italian we chirp out a greeting to the cheerful hostess and sit down at the beckoning table: bruschetta with beautiful tomatoes, a small omelet, cornetti and breads. Perhaps we can be excused, since it was our first time at a foreign B&B, for not politely inquiring how many ways this spread was to be divided. After all no one else was there. Bruce was about to cut the omelet into two (unequal) pieces for us but I suggested that we forget the eggs and go straight for the bruschetta. So we did, making a reasonable dent in the platter. Only after our tardy breakfast mates arrived did we realize that the petite omelet was for everyone to share and that the plate of bruschetta was also communal property. Fortunately the hostess/cook had some more bruschetta ingredients and, with a mildly threatening glance our way, added them to the platter. On subsequent mornings we smugly watched as newcomers lunged for the entire omelet. We weren't able to display our good manners by taking only our fair share of bruschetta since each morning four (small) pieces, which we politely shared with each other, were set out for us.

We didn't have a clear plan for the day (see first sentence!). To be blunt we didn't have any plan other than buying a SIM card that wouldn't give our phone indigestion and just poking around a new city. Since we were staying a week we hoped we didn't need an hour by hour schedule to hit the highlights.

The first stop was the Duomo di Napoli since I was anxious to admire it before the onset of the San Gennaro festivities when it might become too crowded for leisurely exploration. (San Gennaro is the patron saint of Naples and twice a year his coagulated blood miraculously liquifies. Careful planning (not) ensured that we would be in Naples on his feast day, September 19th, when the odds were strongly in favor of a miracle.) The main attraction of the interior of the Duomo is the Chapel of the Treasure of St. Gennaro, which contains notable frescoes and altar paintings.

I was anxious to head down Spaccanapoli, literally Naples- splitter, the long east west street that, frequently changing names, cuts Naples in two, but we didn't turn on it since it wasn't a likely destination for mundane items like SIM cards. That's where you go shopping for items like crèches. Not soon enough we found a phone store and pulled out the uncooperative phone. For a mere 10E and a copy of our passport, we bought a SIM card which would take an hour to spring to life.

The question now was: Where are we? Whenever I've gotten us really lost and it looks like a long walk to anywhere we want to be, I assure Bruce that I know of a good place for food or wine right in this very neighborhood. This time, since I could vaguely make out water on our left, I proclaim that Gran Cafe Gambrinus, (www.caffegambrinus.com ) a choice destination for good espresso and pastries, must be near.

Less than an hour later, after numerous plaintive "Dove e Piazza Plebiscito, per favore?" we were sitting at the edge of Piazza Plebiscito, in Piazza Trieste e Trento, drinking a Caffe Gambrinus and savoring wonderful non-sfogliatelle pastries. Caffe Gambrinus, the drink, is said to be a shot of espresso, a teaspoon of cacao powder, milk foam, whipping cream, and chocolate sprinkles on top. Even Bruce who doesn't like his espresso diluted with anything, including sugar, enjoyed the drink and the break from walking. Caffe Gambrinus is definitely a worthy detour, although lower priced drinks and excellent pastries are everywhere.

We were eating non-sfogliatelle pastries at Caffe Gambrinus because the acclaimed Sfogliatelle Mary was within reach at the Toledo street entrance of Galleria Umbertus in whose shadow we were (almost) sitting. More than an hour had passed since our SIM purchase so before settling the bill we gave the phone another try. Nothing.

A visit to Sfogliatelle Mary's, or Naples for that matter, is not for the abstemious--all of the pastries beckon. We settled on one each of the crispy sfogliatelle (ricce) and the softer version (frolle). The frolle, which we've not had before, quickly became our favorite. Galeria Umberto I is fashioned after the Galeria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan and shares the characteristic of being eerily deserted, though it has a couple of phone stores, which we visited in vain hopes of buying an inexpensive simple phone to match our SIM card.

Since we were not far from the waterfront our next destination was Castel dell'Ovo, named after the legendary magical egg inserted in its foundation. A small fishing village (Borgo Marinari) around the eastern wall of the castle is known for its marina and restaurants. Unfortunately, the route we took to the waterfront was unnecessarily long and not particularly scenic, skirting a park and highway. On the waterfront opposite Castel dell' Ovo are several of the most expensive hotels in Naples. Although they have a great view of the sea, for my taste they're too far removed from the bustling street life of Naples.

All that fresh sea air and we're hungry again. Since this wasn't a "planned" stop, I was uncertain where to eat. I was carrying loads of info, pages from
Plotkin's newly revised book, http://www.amazon.com/Italy-Gourmet-Traveler-Fred-Plotkin/dp/190686831X/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1288912528&sr=1-1#_

Carla Capalbo's Guide to Eating in Naples and Campania http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/1873429711/ref=pd_rvi_gw_2?%5Fencoding=UTF8&v=glance&n=283155

The Cadogan Guide to the Bay of Naples and Southern Italy,
http://www.amazon.com/Naples-Southern-Country-Regional-Guides/dp/1860113494/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1288912679&sr=1-2

just to name a few.

While I researched options Bruce was getting hungrier and more impatient. Plotkin recommended the dining room of one of the hotels across the street but we wanted to stay outside and plopped ourselves at a seafront table at Zi' Teresa at Borgo Marinaro 1. The next dilemma was how much to eat and drink since we wanted to make sure we were hungry for dinner and could also fit in a food and eat stop while making our way back to the B&B. Our order was a meager half bottle of wine, grilled sardines and a caprese, all of which were excellent.

After lunch we faced a long almost 4 mile walk back. (Fortunately at the time we didn't know it was 4 miles!) On the way we stopped at Bar Mexico for both hot and cold espresso, bought a cheap cell phone for 29E, and got hungry enough to stop at La Stanza del Gusto (http://www.lastanzadelgusto.com ) for a cheese and salumi tray, washed down with glasses of Aglianico. The selections on the tray were excellent and we enjoyed sitting outside watching kids play soccer. We wanted to return here to explore the interesting dinner menu but each time we returned it was closed, defying the hours posted on the door and website.

Dinner was at Sorbillo, Via dei Tribunali 32 . The address is critical since there are lesser Sorbillos on Via dei Tribunali which attempt to capitalize on the reputation of the Gino Sorbillo. We weren't the only ones lining up for pizza on a Friday night. The wait was estimated at half an hour but was really more like an hour and a half. You give the hostess your name and then you wait outside straining to hear your name above all the racket. Pizzerias are among the few places in Naples that prize efficiency. Immediately upon taking our small table at the door we were presented menus and quickly placed our order: sparkling water, a bottle of the house Falanghina, and buffalina and diavola pizzas. Although we usually order our pizzas sequentially so they're as hot as can be when we eat them, it didn't seem prudent to attempt this special request. Both pizzas were excellent, with the buffalina having the slight edge. In a little over half an hour we were done and out of there. In Napoli you don't linger in a crowded pizzeria. On our walk back we noticed potted plants being placed in front of the Duomo. Preparations were underway for the upcoming miracle.

You are my kind of traveler, Marija!

The Archaeological Museum and Pizzeria di Matteo: Naples Day 3

After breakfast we headed out to the Archaeological Museum, with a stop for espresso en route. After trying various entrances and being turned away because we were neither handicapped nor a group, we made our way to the ticket counter where disappointment awaited: the exhibit of mosaics from Pompeii was closed as was the Gabinetto Segreto, the erotic art collection from Pompeii:http://museoarcheologiconazionale.campaniabeniculturali.it/thematic-paths/in-museum/P_RA12
Although we tried, we couldn't find out if the closure was for that day or a longer period of time-- segreto descibes well the hours and exhibits of many Italian museums. We were fortunate that the entire museum wasn't closed for our week long stay.

After contentedly wandering around the museum for several hours we rejoined the throngs on the streets. Even though the streets were packed shoulder to shoulder on this sunny Saturday we felt perfectly relaxed and safe, no one showed the slightest interest in our pockets or my new purse. Fear was building that we would leave Naples without having a good story of how we cleverly thwarted thugs and pick pocketers...

Our destination was the famous Pasticceria Scaturchio (Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 19) where we were confident we could sneak in an espresso and pastry before lunch. Our route on Spaccanapoli crossed the Piazza Gesu Novo where we succumbed to a cold coffee concoction on the pretext that sitting we could better appreciate the facade of the Chiesa del Gesù and the boisterous students from the nearby university who were milling around grabbing shots of espresso and entering, but never leaving, a secret locked door.

By dallying over the drinks we missed our chance to see a wedding and the inside of the Chiesa di Santa Chiara which was across just across the piazza. As we (at a suitable distance) joined the photographers taking photos of the wedding party outside, the custodians locked the church, never to unlock it when we were passing by.

It wasn't difficult to find the Pasticceria Scaturchio on the lovely Piazza San Domenico but it too was inexplicably closed, keeping those same segreto hours. The large outdoor seating area was empty and the doors locked. We would just have to head to lunch without sampling their sfogliatelle.

Our B&B host recommended Al 53 on Piazza Dante 53 for lunch and we enjoyed our meal of caprese, linguini with vongole and pacchieri with seafood while sitting on the piazza. In Naples, unlike other large Italian cities, you don't have to worry about "tourist-trap" restaurants, since there don't seem to be many identifiable tourists.

Dinner tonight was to be at Pizzeria di Matteo ( http://www.pizzeriadimatteo.it ). Continuing our habit of looking for pastries before meals we headed over to Piazza San Domenico Maggiore to see if Pasticceria Scaturchio had opened but it had not. (At least once a day we passed by the shop and it was never open. ) To assuage our disappointment we turned to wine, taking a seat at the Gran Caffè Aragonese (http://www.grancaffearagonese.it) on the same square. Spirited entertainment was provided by the local urchins playing soccer. (The locals at the next table warned me not to wear my gold watch on the street. Since my watch is gold only in color I hadn't give that much thought. For the rest of our stay in Naples I kept the not-gold gold watch inside my purse.)

After last night's wait at Pizzeria Sorbillo we were expecting a crowd at di Matteo --but just not this large. The sensible strategy would have been to go elsewhere but sensible and Naples just don't go together. Bruce elbowed his way in and came out clutching a number. We stand close to the door where the number-caller appears since we don't want to chance missing our number. In less than an hour we're standing at the entrance waving our just called number. Not so quick. Turns out those numbers were for placing to-go orders. Very unsympathetically we're returned to the street with our name now on the bottom of the eat- in list.

So we wait for another hour, still wedged in front of the door so we can hear the names being called. We're ready to pounce on anything that sounds similar to the easy name we've given but we hear nothing that could possibly be us. As the crowd thins I'm able to work my way in to see where we are on the list. Brusquely I'm told that we've missed our call. At least they decide to seat us now. Two and a half hours after arriving we finally place our order for a funghi e salsicce con panna and a margarita with mozzarella di buffalo. They're good. After all this is Naples.

Well after midnight we walk back to our room, past the Duomo which is surrounded by numerous candy stands, police cars and onlookers. Tomorrow's the day for the miracle...

Reading with much interest and we always appreciate the inclusion of websites.

Hope to read that you can get back to the Pompeii stuff at the museum! After first being appalled at the lack of lining up for things, DH and I quickly learned to push in. This came in handy when taking a loaded bus on Friday afternoon!

Enjoying this very much.

I've been enjoying your TR so far - wish I'd been able to spend more time in Napoli! Ah, the espresso (and the pizza and the pastries...). I loved that there were all sorts of local brands of coffee!

FWIW, the Gabinetto Segreto was closed when we were there in early May of this year. Now that you mention it, I don't remember seeing the mosaics either - so maybe that was closed too? According to my Fodor's guide, the Gabinetto Segreto has "only become fully accessible [since] 2000". Hmm...

Waiting with baited breath for your section on Piedmont and fascinated that you have been to Zielona Gora too. - The company I worked for before moving to Italy has a big facility there and I have spent many a day and night in that location, actually not too bad if you have friends and know where to go, but I'm happy to be in Italy

Thanks for reading!
eks--we travel very differently. My travel companion will skip lunch only in a dire emergency!
ggreen--I'm relieved to know that the mosaics and Gabinetto Segreto were closed when you were there. I regretted not going back and trying again. Now my conscience is at ease!
Sampaguita--where were you when I was looking for info on the hotspots of Zielona Gora?! A miracle, a near disaster, and then we're in Piedmont.

Marija, we were there at the same time as you so it is fun to read your report. We were also very disappointed that the mosaics at the archaeological museum were closed. I guess the San Gennaro miracle is coming up.

La Festa di San Gennaro --Naples Day 4

No need for an alarm clock to wake us today. Through our open window we hear shouts and car horns that are much more intense than other mornings. Since it's our first Sunday in Naples we don't know whether this is anything unusual or just the late night crowd returning home. Although we're right around the corner from the cathedral, despite our most acrobatic efforts on the small balcony we can't actually see what's happening on Via del Duomo, the most likely source of the commotion.

Today is September 19th, the feast of San Gennaro, the patron saint of Naples, and we're eager to participate in the celebration and, of course, witness the regularly scheduled miracle of his centuries-old coagulated blood liquefying. Unfortunately we're not at all sure of what this participation involves, except for gorging on candy and nuts from the numerous stands laden with colorful sweets that have sprung up near the Duomo. The guidebooks are irritatingly silent about details, warning only of huge crowds and possible long waits until the miracle occurs. They are quick to point out, however, that if the miracle doesn't occur we should abandon Naples ASAP, since terrible events (erupting volcanoes and the like) are expected.

At breakfast I jokingly ask the host what time we should expect the miracle and he deservedly laughs off my question, telling us that no one knows but fireworks will announce the event. For lack of a better plan we set off towards the cathedral, expecting that the throng will be so huge that we won't get anywhere near it. But we should at least be able to observe the pick pocketers at work. Wrong. Only a couple of hundred people are gathered outside the cathedral, although a much larger number are inside attending High Mass. What should we do? The prospect of standing on the steps all day, even in anticipation of a miracle, doesn't really appeal, especially since the locals seem to have dismissed it as a good option. Characteristically Bruce proposed espresso, equally predictably I propose we try to jam ourselves into the church.

Our quandary is immediately resolved when an English-speaking Italian tells us that the miracle has already occurred and that the archbishop of Naples will soon bring the reliquary with the free-flowing blood outside so that we too can see it. Sure enough, in a couple of minutes the archbishop and his entourage emerge from the cathedral, displaying the now liquefied "blood" in a transparent ring which he rotates so that you can see that the red liquid inside it flows freely. Fireworks explode, the small crowd screams in gratitude and awe, the cardinal prays, blesses us and goes back inside the cathedral.

Since the people who were at the Mass are still in the cathedral we decide to join them. Once again we're surprised that it's not difficult to get inside and watch the closing ceremonies. There's not much left of the service and soon the cathedral empties as well. We later learn that conveniently the miracle almost always takes place during High Mass. If we had known this we would have attended the Mass and witnessed the events leading up to the it. Upon our return home I was asked if we had seen the procession that takes place before Mass. Maybe that's the commotion we heard. That's another event we unknowingly missed.

(As an aside, the Vatican does not consider the liquefaction of San Gennaro's blood an authenticated miracle. Even poor San Gennaro himself was in danger of being ousted as a saint during the great purge of saints but managed to survive, perhaps with a little help from the camorra.)

Now what? We were planning to spend the day hovering near the cathedral waiting for the miracle and it's over before 11! If the stands around the church were selling food instead of candy, that would be a reason for staying in the area, but no such luck. Espresso is always the fallback so we set out in search not only of espresso but also of pastries and a pleasant place to sit down. Since it's still early on Sunday many places, including the elusive Pasticceria Scaturchio, are closed. Our destination is then via Toledo, home of many cafes, but a failed shortcut takes us through a dismal area without food or drinks of any kind, if you can image that in Naples. When we reconnected with via Toledo the first place we saw was L.u.i.s.e., via Toledo 266, a cafe and take-out, with lots of nice seating outside. Bruce refuses to walk further, though I assure him that better places wait round the proverbial corner. The pastries and espresso are unexpectedly fine and we enjoy sitting in the sunlight watching the throngs of pedestrians on via Toledo, wondering why they seem oblivious to today's miracle.

The beautiful weather determines our next destination-- the waterfront park of Villa Comunale. We take a scenic route through ritzy Chiaia, surprised by all the elegant designer shops on our path. Several hours vanish quickly as we observe the bucolic activities in the park. And then we have to confront the inevitable: Where's lunch? Since it was Sunday many places on my list were closed. After suitable debate we agree to walk to Mergellina and see if we can squeeze in somewhere for some serious food and wine. We bypass Chalet Ciro despite its great location on the waterfront, since it serves primarily gelato and pastries, and continue on to Ciro a Mergellina http://www.ciroamergellina.it. Our timing is exemplary since the lunch crowd of beautiful and handsome Neopolitans and their children is thinning and there's a vacant table awaiting us. I know this isn't the best place for seafood in Mergellina but it was exactly what we need after our 6 mile hike. Besides the bottle of wine we feasted on octopus salad, fried sea creatures and linguini with seafood. The waiter was mildly annoying and gestured for a tip when we were leaving but we didn't care since we were well fed and rested and also had had the opportunity to observe the very chic locals who undoubtedly don't venture into our part of town.

We passed on espresso with lunch since I assured Bruce that we could take the nearby funicular to upper Mergellina and sip espresso while enjoying great views of the bay. It took a while to figure out where to buy tickets (a machine on the street) but the ride up was quick. Since we didn't know where to get off we just stayed onboard until the top, reasoning that views must improve with distance. This was not a good idea. There's nothing up there-- not a cafe, not a bar, and to add to this injustice, no views, since buildings obstruct everything. After a wander we located the funicular again and returned to our starting point.

Emboldened by our first success with public transportation , and wanting to protect Naples' streets from unnecessary wear and tear, we took the Metro back to piazza Cavour. Upon surfacing from the Metro we're engulfed by the huge crowds around the Duomo who are eating luridly colored sweets and pacing the streets. We bypass the treats which don't even tempt us and return to the quiet of our B&B for a rest before dinner.

A late and large lunch made a light dinner strangely appealing and, since we would be climbing Vesuvius the next morning, it was just as well not to haul extra weight with us. Our host recommended La Stanza del Gusto and that seemed like a good choice since we enjoyed it on our previous visit. The walk to Piazza Bellini took longer since the crowds hadn't dispersed but we persevered, only to find La Stanza del Gusto shut tight. We started walking, hoping we'd find an open pizzeria somewhere, but gave up shortly, since we were no longer in top walking form. We returned to Intra Moenia, one of the cafes on Piazza Bellini, hoping that we could cobble together a dinner there. We did and it wasn't very good. Perhaps the best cooks are off on the feast of San Gennaro. Despite the deficient dinner, we left confident we've stashed away enough calories to propel us to the top of Vesuvius tomorrow.

Marija, I'm so glad you wrote about the San Gennaro festival - and relieved, too, that we didn't miss all that much by not seeing it. Living in NYC, the annual San Gennaro Festival is a big deal in Little Italy, so we were naturally curious what it's like in its native city. As for my experience in Naples, we ended up spending way more time than we'd anticipated in the cathedral! At first we were only going to peek in - given the NYC connection - but ended up exploring all the nooks and crannies. The crypt was fascinating, as was a closed-off room with portraits of all the bishops(?) on the ceiling...

rialtogrl--Please feel free to add your impressions here. How did you like your apartment in Naples? What did you do?

ggreen--The San Gennaro festival was disappointing. Perhaps we missed interesting events (and food) on streets in other parts of town.

Stranded on Vesuvius---Naples Day 5

The plan for today was clear, unless the weather wasn't--Vesuvius and Herculaneum. Since we still hadn't seen any crime, I was looking forward to finally experiencing the dangers of Piazza Garibaldi and the notorious Napoli Centrale train station. In preparation, I left my purse behind and just tucked the essentials into a money pouch and my well protected pockets. The route from the Metro to the Circumvesuviana was well marked through the clean, modern railway station with shops lining the corridors. Seeing Hudson News was a bit jarring. Buying a roundtrip ticket was easy, though we did check with locals before boarding the train to make sure it was going our way.

Vesuvius was to be our first stop since climbing to the top would be easier before it got hot and our batteries began to discharge. As far as I can tell there's only one way to get from the Ercolano-Scavi stop to the beginning of the Vesuvius climb without a car and that's to buy a ticket for the 10 passenger van that departs from a small building to the left of the train station. The bus won't go until it's full but that wasn't a problem for us, since many people were waiting to get onboard. (Our ticket included both the van ride and admission to the park.)

The ride was about half an hour up a windy road with great views of the bay and Naples. Before we got out the driver told us to be back in an hour and fifteen minutes. Obviously the bus company wants to do as many round trips as possible each day so the proposed climb time is short. I had read about this and asked the driver (in English) if we could take the next bus down if we weren't back in time for our scheduled departure. He agreed.

The admission fee entitles you to a walking stick which, unlike our jackets, is an excellent accessory. You tip the giver upon its return, a good strategy since if you don't make it down you don't need to unnecessarily deplete your estate. Along the path there are a couple of refreshment and souvenir shops and some benches for enjoying the view or catching your breath.

How long does it take to get to the very top? I read estimates that ranged from 20 minutes to an hour and a half. At a leisurely pace we took a little less than two hours roundtrip with only photo and brief rest stops. Bruce was determined to go to the very end of the path, until he reached the Do Not Enter sign, so that's what we did, although I think we could have quit a good 10 minutes earlier and not missed much, except for the Do Not Enter sign. We didn't pay attention to time since any of the returning vans would take us.

After returning our walking sticks we walked over to a white van which looked like the kind that had brought us up to ask what time he was going down. The driver screamed at us as if we were toddlers who ran out into oncoming traffic! No we could not take just any bus down we had to take the very same bus that brought us up and had left without us with our two empty seats. His position was clear and oft repeated, very loudly: "This is your problem, not mine."

I left Bruce to absorb the Italio-English abuse while I went to evaluate other options. The tour vans from other companies in the parking lot were reserved only for their clients. No public buses. Not a taxi in sight. Our phone was back at the B&B so we couldn't ask their advice or attempt to summon a taxi. The walk down is very long...

Oh noo, how can you leave us hanging?! What a story.

I'm loving this report. Hudson News in Naples? oy.

Marija, a cliff nanger in more ways than one!! Can't wait for the next installment...

NanBug, we were so astounded by the Hudson News, I just had to take a picture:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/10019873@N07/5157792461/


I had not been to Naples in over 20 years, the last time as a backpack-toting college student. Not a shred of the old station -- with its high ceilings, worn marble and aroma of danger -- remains. Quite a shock for me to see, but we were both grateful at the efficiency and clear wayfinding of the modern incarnation!

Funny, ggreen! We're heading to Naples in January, can't wait.

just found this, and I'm left hanging off the cliff - how long, Marija, how long?

great report which brings back memories of the one and only time we went to Naples, over 30 years ago, on a day trip from Sorrento. it was an exciting and slightly frightening place to an 18 year old, but we lived to tell the tale.

your worries about your personal safety also remind me of the story told by a young Italian of my acquaintance, who was once caught in a traffic jam in Naples, and with his companions was trying to work out on the map where they were as they were completely lost. it turns out that italians who do not hail from Naples [he happens to be from Rome], also share our fears of the natives, and his concern increased as the driver in the car next to them got out of his car and walked round to his side. in trepidation he wound down the window to see what the cabby wanted. "where were they going"? Fearfully he replied with their destination. "Follow me" said the other driver, and when the traffic started up again, he led them safely out of Naples.

They are not all villans!

annhig, now you've reminded me of my first experience with Naples... over 20 years ago, coming out of the old Centrale at dusk and trying to find the way to our pensione. We'd had enough sense to have the pensione in Rome call ahead and book a room for us, and we knew to get a taxi and not take flack from anyone who might accost us. (I was traveling with a redhead and a blonde -- I'm a brunette -- and we'd already gotten enough reactions that we were all both wary and confident by this point, if that makes any sense. Haha, being 19!)

We got a cab on the first try and off we went. But then the guy dropped us in a piazza somewhere with a vague gesture where our lodging was supposed to be. At every turn, we'd pull out the Let's Go with the listing, surrounded by animated old ladies gesticulating and arguing in Italian, none of which we understood. Suddenly, two rotund men on a Vespa pulled up, asked in English where we wanted to go, and assured us they would get us there. The blonde and I didn't want to risk it, but the redhead pointed out that we weren't much better off staying where we were, and off we went, away from the lighted piazza, what felt like a long, long way away, then down a narrow dark street with what I swore were cavernous pits (auto body shops) and leering men -- to be deposited politely at the door of the pensione!

The last chapter of the story was that the two men wanted to take us out the next night. When they came by, we tried hiding in our room but eventually were persuaded to join them. The three of us squeezed into the backseat of a VW Jetta and the two of them up front, speeding up to the highest point in the city, convinced that now we really were going to die. But my, what a view of the bay and the sparkling lights that ring it. The men were total gentlemen who just wanted us to see another part of their city -- and probably to dispel some stereotypes along the way!

Oh no! Cliffhanger indeed!

Marija - we walked - a LOT - just like you. And ate a lot of pizza of course, were disappointed by the archaeological museum but loved the Capidomonte museum, went to the free MTV concert in Piazza Plebiscito, went to Herculaneum one day...

I wish I would have had 6 weeks not 6 days. But, one day I will go back and for longer.

My friend went to the San Gennaro mass but I did not go because I don't like large crowds in enclosed spaces. But she reported the same as you did - there were just not that many people there.

Look forward to reading more, and seeing how you got yourselves out of this scrape!

Great stuff!!

We were there for San Gennaro last year and actually saw the liquified blood, or something liquified and dark red in glass that was held up by the priest. It was quite a scene and all of the local ladies kept pushing me forward, elbowing others out of the way to make room for me beside the priest thinking, I guess, that the foreigner had come all this way to see the miracle...

ARe you still on the mountain? Must be getting chilly by now!

LOL ekscrunchy!

What goes up must come down--Naples Day 5 (continued)

Having a Plan B is always good when you travel. Before we set off on a trip I practice my responses to possible problems: the karate chop to delicate parts, the piercing scream of Fire in the local language, the call to the embassy. Too bad I didn't have a Plan B in place for this situation.

Bruce was sitting on a concrete slab in the parking lot, probably thinking about the lunch we were missing. Before I had a chance to present my desperate let's-just-hitchhike proposal , he reported that the irate driver told him to sit there and await further instruction. Since I wasn't constrained to sit, I approached the driver in hopes of extracting more details. Still furious, the driver conceded that he would take us down but we would not have seats. That was the best offer on hand but "no seats" can mean anything from sitting on a handsome Italian's lap to being tied to the roof. The outcome was somewhere in between--we came down from Vesuvius sitting on the floor of the bus behind the last row of seats, giggling all the way. The driver, however, was still enraged. When he finally released us he ordered us to go inside to "headquarters" to apologize. Without the slightest hesitation, or look back, we bolted.

Our next stop was Herculaneum, an easy 15 minute walk from the train station. Despite being hungry and alternately annoyed and amused by the morning's outing, we wandered the streets of Herculaneum for several hours, marveling at how well preserved it is compared to Pompeii. But Herculaneum is still not without danger. As we approached the edge of the old city, where it meet the new city above, children were hurling substantial rocks at the tourists below. We took that as a sign to leave.

There are taxis circling between the train station and Herculaneum so for 5E we returned to the train station by taxi, minimizing our chance of encountering rock throwing urchins or livid bus drivers. The return to Naples was uneventful, our train didn't even make any stops along the way.

Our attention now turned to food, since we hadn't eaten since breakfast. The nearest restaurant on my list was Mimi alla Ferrovia, (http://www.mimiallaferrovia.com) , somewhere on Piazza Garibaldi, and supposedly open all afternoon. I didn't have my books or notes so I didn't have an exact address and my attempt to locate it by walking around Piazza Garibaldi was a failure. I looked for the tourist information at the train station but couldn't find that either. Hungrily we transferred to the Metro, hoping that we'd find food as we walked between the Metro stop and our B&B but that wasn't the case either. We settled for some unremarkable pastry and coffee on via Duomo.

Dinner was at Hosteria Toledo (www.hosteriatoledo.it), another Slow Food selection. In our weakened state walking was not an option so we hailed our first taxi in Naples. Although we had an exact address and even a map, the driver had a difficult time locating the restaurant which is tucked on a small street in the Spanish quarter. He stopped several times to ask for directions. Of course we didn't mind since it gave us a chance to see the area in the safety of a taxi and without relying on our feet.

At Hosteria Toledo we were seated on the second floor in what appeared to be the English speaking section. This was the only place in Naples where we encountered predominantly tourists, perhaps because the restaurant is conveniently located to several hotels. (The notable exception was a stereotypical camorrista who arrived late and embedded himself among the innocent tourists, hiding next to a solidly built refrigerator.) The food, including a sfizietto Toledo, an assortment of fried items, and a porcini pasta, was very good. Exhausted from the day's adventures I neglected to note all that we ate, though I do know it included a bottle of wine.

So... you ate at Hosteria Toledo on that Monday night? So did we! Were you at the table closest to the stairs?

We liked it very much... even though it was touristy, and the woman serving us was a little distant, the food was awesome. That is so funny we were there in the same room on the same night.

Yes, rialtogrl! We were at the table closest to the stairs. Which table were you at? I think the table behind us said their hotel recommended it and I know you were in an apartment, so that couldn't have been you, and you weren't that odd guy eating alone, so you were either across the aisle from us or the camorrista. Do you know who I mean? Or did he come after you left? He sat behind you on the other side of the refrigerator.

It was me and my friend Colleen... I think you were drinking white wine? Don't ask me why I remember this. We were across from you on the side of the fridge closest to the stairs. So yes, across the aisle. I don't remember the camorrista... at one point the server sat at the table next to us to add up some checks. I think.

We had some of the salt and pepper calamari then pasta... and we were drinking red wine.

Do you think we can consider it a Fodor's GTG even if we didn't know it was taking place?

LOL! I can't even imagine, sitting in the same restaurant at the same time, how cool!!

...Maybe we Fodorites should come up with some discreet way of identifying ourselves -- kind of like how Canadians often will put a small pin of their flag on their backpack or purse strap. (I have a bright orange Fodor's tote I was given at a GTG, but IMO that's waaay too obvious a thing to be carting around, especially to a nice dinner.) Imagine the GTG opportunities!!

"Do you think we can consider it a Fodor's GTG even if we didn't know it was taking place?"

Absolutely

So little time, so much of Naples yet to see---Day 6

Although we'd been in Naples for five days, we hadn't made much of a dent in our "to see and to eat" list, though we did make a point of stopping in at churches as we passed them and were fortunate to find Monte de Pieta open on Saturday. With only two days remaining, we had lots of ground to cover. Our first stop was to be Pio Monte della Miserecordia church to see Caravaggio's Seven Acts of Mercy. We knew it was right around the corner from the Duomo on via Tribunali, and we had an exact address, but we just couldn't locate it, despite asking locals. Thwarted we decided to move on and return after we got more information.

Before moving on to the second destination, the acclaimed Capella Sansevero, we made a quick espresso stop at Bar Nilo (Via San Biagio del Librai 129), one of Bruce's favorites. We weren't surprised to find Scaturchio on Piazza San Domenico Maggiore still closed so we substituted the excellent gelato from nearby Scimmia. (Scimmia seems to have locations other than the main one on Piazza Carita.)

Capella Sansevero (http://www.museosansevero.it ) is easy to find and well marked-- too bad today it's closed on Tuesdays. We'll have to return tomorrow. One of the perils of a longer stay is the tendency to delay too long visiting places that you routinely pass. Next stop: Vomero. The funicular to Vomero is surrounded by many shops, a market and an open branch of Scaturchio. Although I'm ready to pounce on a sfogliatelle, Bruce reminds me that we're heading to lunch at Osteria Donna Teresa, so I agree to defer a stop until our way back.

We take the funicular all the way to the end and start our search for Osteria Donna Teresa at Via Kerbaker 58, which is about a 10 minute walk from the funicular station if you keep going straight when you exit, instead of following signs for Castel Sant' Elmo or Certosa di San Martino. Since we were unable to visit both the Caravaggio and the Capella Sansevero and found the Osteria reasonably quickly, it was almost too early for lunch. The Osteria doesn't take reservations and appeared to be filling up so we decide to just go ahead and have lunch at an unfashionable hour. With our luck today they may close it for a private party while we're debating when the right time is to enter.

There are only 8 tables in the tiny room and turnover is quick--definitely not a place to linger. The fixed price menu is around 12E and includes an appetizer, pasta, a fish/meat dish, vegetables and dessert, as well as a quartino of house wine. There were two choices for each of the courses and we had one of each. Bruce ordered the red wine, I ordered the white, thinking that inexpensive white is sometimes better than inexpensive red, but I was very wrong. For the first, and only, time this trip, I didn't finish my wine. As expected, the food was simple but well prepared and we enjoyed watching all the activity. The main draw here is seeing vestiges of "old" Naples and sampling traditional home cooking.

From the Hosteria we walked to Castel Sant' Elmo which was clearly listed in both Cadogan and Fodor's 2007 as open on Tuesday. Not open--chiuso. The closing day must have changed since the two books were printed. (Note to self: In Italy, always stop at Tourist Information and get current hours and closings, especially for places that don't have websites.) With trepidation we continued walking to the Certosa di San Martino, around the corner from Sant' Elmo and surprisingly found it open. (My understanding is that one ticket covers both Castel Sant' Elmo and the Certosa.)

The views of Naples and the Bay are stunning outside the Certosa and we lingered quite long before actually going inside. It seemed almost a shame to wreck our perfect record of misses for the day. What's inside? The monastery contains a magnificent Capella del Tesoro as well as a museum with holdings that range from precious art to mega-sized creches. The Certosa is one of those places you wander not knowing what's going to pop up next. It was a delightful conclusion to the series of failures.

At ground level we pause at Scaturchio but they're out of sfogliatelle frolle, so I settle for some other pastry which isn't exceptional, despite all that built up anticipation, or maybe because of it. On the way back to the B&B we stop again at La Stanza del Gusto hoping for a snack but we're again told that they are closed, despite the sign proclaiming that they're open. So we sit at one of the cafes on Piazza Bellini, drink wine, and marvel at how unsuccessful we've been today.

Dinner is pizza at Da Michele, http://www.damichele.net , a short walk from the B&B through a rougher neighborhood. Once again we give our names and wait in the throng. We're lucky and the wait is only a half hour or so. The choices are limited: pizza marina, pizza margherita and beer, no wine. We order one of each. While the pizza cooks we stare at the posters of Julia Roberts in "Mangia, Prega ,Ama " with the heading "Con La Nostra Pizza" emblazoned on them, since the pizza scene was filmed at Da Michele. I find the pizzas too soupy, Bruce marvels at the crust. This is probably our least favorite pizza, from the serious pizzerias. We pass Pizzeria Trianon, one of the places on my pizzeria list, on our way back and strangely it's almost empty.

We have lots to see tomorrow to make up for today.

Hope you were able to see everything you wanted. What an amazing hoot that another Fodorite was in the same resto.

"they are closed, despite the sign proclaiming that they're open"-This is one of the things my DH and I loved about this country. Italy, thy name is quirkiness!

Ah, Marija I was about to be jealous that you were able to view the Caravaggio. But it seems you had the same bad luck as us as regards whether or not things are chiuso. (For us, it didn't help that we weren't paying very much attention to the timings *before* heading out for the day...) I hope to hear you made it into Pio Monte della Miserecordia the next day!

Oh, and did I mention that Scaturchio was also closed the day we tried to go there? I'm beginning to get déjà vu - even though our trips were months apart!

We ate at Trianon and it is fabulous... wine on the menu, but when I asked for it got a firm NO VINO. Most of the seating is upstairs so maybe that is why it looked empty... they have a nice, big dining room. Next time.

If looking for a definitive take on opening times and days, it's almost always best to telephone the place directly.... and hope you get someone who can tell you!

However you'll find lots of Naples "what's on" information - and the answers to a host of "How do I..." questions - in the 'Qui Napoli' magazine, which the tourism people bring out every two months.

Mostly it's in bilingual English/Italian, and a PDF version is available by clicking on the word "download" here....
http://www.inaples.it/eng/quinapoli.htm

Trust you'll find it as useful as I do!
Peter

PS: Apologies for breaking the flow - more please...

That's a great resource, Brit. Thanks for including it here. And thanks for telling us where the people were at Trianon, rialtogrl. Since it doesn't serve wine I'll have to toss it off my list. One more day in Naples.

Keep it coming, Marija, I'm all ears!

Departure leads to desperation---Naples Day 7

I didn't have to actually consult my list of 30 recommended restaurants, 23 awesome pizzerias, 9 incredible friggitorias , not to mention all the gelaterias, pasticcerias and cafes to realize that there's no way we can sample even a little bite from each of them before we leave tomorrow, especially with the leftovers from yesterday-- a still unseen Caravaggio and Capella Sansevero--that need attention.

Google showed us an image of the elusive octagonal Pio Monte della Miserecordia where Caravaggio's Seven Acts of Mercy rests. Yesterday we had walked too far down via Tribunali in search of it, since we hadn't seen the side door entrance which is the only access to the church. Admission to the church and painting is free. You have to pay to see the museum. We were alone in the chapel, except for one other couple.

The next stop was Capella Sansevero, definitely a high point of our visit to Naples. The Veiled Christ sculpture is astounding. Don't miss it. Besides the chapel at ground level there are some anatomical displays down the staircase from the chapel. We rewarded our efficiency with early morning espresso and pastries at the Gran Caffè Aragonese which is round the corner from Sansevero. (The neighboring Scaturchio was still closed.)

I wanted a little Pulcinello to remind us of Naples so I made my way to Via San Gregorio Armeno (click on my name to see what it is and what I bought), while Bruce sampled some gelato. Since we were only in week two of a five week trip with carry-ons, I was severely restricted in what I could reasonably buy.

We had also not been to Museo di Capodimonte, Naples' major art museum in a beautiful spot overlooking the city. It was clear that the Museum should be our next destination but we succumbed to the siren song of a leisurely Neapolitan lunch. Our before-lunch sfogliatelle was to be at Pintauro, http://www.pintauro.it, a noted pastry shop. Unbelievably they were out of sfogliatelle. Nearby we spotted Ciro a Santa Brigida, recommended by both Plotkin and Capalbo http://www.ciroasantabrigida.com/il-ristorante , so we eagerly entered, afraid that if we lingered too long looking for other lunch possibilities, places might run out of food or seating.

We were happy with our window seats on the little enclosed second floor. Although there was a special lunch menu we decided to order a la carte: mozzarella di bufala, octopus, pasta, and, of course, wine. The food was well prepared and we enjoyed watching the activities on the street from our perch.

Our last dinner had to be pizza but we weren't sure where to go. The host at the B&B recommended the Ischiana pizza at Il Figlio Del Presidente on nearby via Duomo 181-183. Too bad it was closed. Since we still had to organize ourselves for an early morning departure, we headed to the nearest pizzeria, probably belonging to the same family --Pizzeria Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente, where Bill Clinton ate before embracing low cholesterol foods http://www.ilpizzaiolodelpresidente.it . The place looked deserted but that's because everyone was in the large basement. We were a little disappointed that we were going to finish our exploration of pizzerias in an ordinary pizzeria that's not the recipient of lavish praise. Fortunately, that wasn't the case--to our untrained palates, the pizzas here were as good as those we had at the more highly acclaimed places.

Since we had to leave at 7 in the morning for the airport we pre-ordered a taxi the day before. The next morning, it arrived at the appointed time and for 20E we were back at the clean and modern airport to wait for our Air Italy flight to Turin, sad to be leaving Naples, a most fascinating city.

I'll continue with Piedmont on a separate thread.

Hi, Marija --

Curious to know what your impresssions were of the Capodimonte Museum...

And, out of all the pizza joints you sampled, what was your favorite?

Thanks!

Nanbug--we never did make it to the Capodimonte Museum. We had a leisurely lunch instead and wandered around Naples. Sorbillo and di Matteo both have excellent pizzas, as did Il Pizzaiolo del Presidente. I agree with those who say Da Michele's pizza is very soupy.

Have a great time in Naples. I'll be waiting to read your report and thanks for reading mine!

Thanks for the info! Looking forward to hearing about the rest of your adventures...

I enjoyed reading about your time in Naples. It was nice that you could see it at a little more relaxed pace. We had to rush with just under three days.

So, how does the pizza at Spaccanapoli stack up to, say, Sorbillo (which I really liked)?

ms_go, Spaccanapoli's owner studied the art of pizza making at di Matteo. His crusts aren't as fine as Sorbillo's but overall the pizza is quite good, especially if you stick to the basic bufalina and margherita. I'm not too fond of the pizzas with lots of toppings.

http://www.spaccanapolipizzeria.com

I definitely recommend a trip into the city to try some. Let me know when you're coming.

Thanks, Marija. It's been on my destination list ever since we visited Naples five years ago. We live about 40 miles west and, sadly, don't get into the city very often anymore (I worked in Chicago for 15 years and miss it--well, not the commuting in/out part). We will get there one of these days!

We are coming in next Sunday night (5th) for a concert at the Vic, which isn't too far way. Weather and other factors permitting, this might be an option--otherwise, it will be next year I'll post here later in the week if it looks like that's possible.

Loving your report! Far too few of the Italy reports here have a "Seventh Day in Naples" entry. or even a "Fifth.." Or a "Third ...".
Looking forward to the rest of your trip.

Marija- Just found this while researching for an upcoming trip to Naples. THANK YOU! Like you, I always try to travel well armed with more restaurant choices than I need. You've added to my arsenal.

To Marija-- I'm happy you got out of Naples alive and in one piece! You didn't get mugged or assaulted! I AM PISSED at all those crums that belittle Naples. I have gone there every year for the past twenty, and I have NEVER been in a dangerous situation. Those crybabies that knock Naples probably have not ever been there. The people of Naples are the most generous and outgoing people on earth. I'm glad that you had so many adventures there. As I said, I go there every year, and every year I find something new. For my part, there are only three cities on earth where I would live-- Naples, Paris and New York, in that order. Incidentally, if I had to live in Naples, I would love to live near Piazza Amadeo.

Mariji,
I'm so glad I happened upon your TR. I'm going to Naples solo in May for 3 nights. I'm staying in the Chiaia area. I've made note of the pizzeria's you mentioned and the pasticceria's as well. It sounds like we both have a sweet tooth. Do you have any photos to share?
Judy

Great report. We'll be in Naples in Sept and on San gennaro Day. Actually glad to read it didn't disrupt the city.

We'll be there in September too. Great report. I can't wait for the pastries and the pizza!