Brief Notes on Trip to Dordogne/Lot and Barcelona

Background of this trip:
We knew that a trip to France and Spain less than three months after returning from three weeks in Indonesia was a bit piggy; not so easy on our work lives or our treasury but itches, as it were, must be scratched!

So we planned to sleep cheap and eat very well. Mission accomplished. So much has been written about the Dordogne and Lot valleys on this board that I’ll just note places we stayed and liked or didn’t, ditto for activities and dining and limit the narrative trip report. Many, many thanks to all who responded to my questions and special thanks to Stu Dudley and St. Cirq for your expert advice.

We flew LAX-Paris-Bordeaux on Sept. 10th and overnighted at Hotel Majestic in Bordeaux (119E including parking). Very basic small room by even European standards (3 star) and staff were far from welcoming. Upside was attached garage and very convenient for walking the city. The restaurant the hotel recommended, Belle Epoque, was pal mal but I've had much better meals in Bordeaux.

En route to St Cyprien the next day we had lunch in St. Emilion; the weather was sunny, about 82-84 degrees and the town was not overrun with tourists (compared to two previous visits).

Le Chevrefeuille B & B in the tiny hamlet of Pechboutier, 3 miles from St. Cyprien was our lodging for the following two nights. The Bread Room (65E) was full of character. Our private patio looked out on a large open lawn. The owners work very hard to keep everything running smoothly. Breakfast and dinner under the ivy covered terrace was lovely. The Sunday market in St Cyprien was small and orderly. It takes no more than an hour for a thorough tour. IMO it lacked the eye jollies of the small markets in Provence.

Font de Gaume was a highlight in this area. I was much more moved by this cave than I expected to be. The knowledge and enthusiasm of the English speaking guide added a great deal. Getting tickets can be a challenge, since only 12 people are allowed per tour and only two English tours a day in mid September. Sara our B & B hostess was kind enough to get tickets for us in advance. You can contact F de G via email bernadette.seixas@monuments-nationaux.fr and purchase direct, no exchanges.
After F de G DH and I enjoyed a very tasty lunch in Les Eyzies at Hotellerie du Passeur; lovely view of the river from the terrace. The Museum of Pre History just up the road was done brilliantly and a pleasure to visit.

We stayed in Sarlat four nights at Les Cordeliers, run by Brits Amanda and Chris Johnson. Our room, #2, was huge and well appointed, a screaming bargain at 69E/night.

We had outstanding dining experiences while in Sarlat area
at Le Metarie and Auberge La Plume d’Oie. (laplumedeoie@wanadee.fr)
Both are small places (seating maybe 40) with old world charm, sophistication and great hospitality. Both were world class dining experiences. There was a posting that Mark Walker of Le Plume d’Oie was ill. He is physically healthy and his food is divine. But he is sick at heart and grieving the tragic death (in July) of his wife, of 28 years, Hiddy. He'd be pleased to hear from those who know him.

A third dinner at Les Delices de Lauralice (Place Beauvau; phone 05 53 30 29 00) was quite a find. We stumbled upon it as we were grazing for a “light” dinner. Again a tiny place, excellent food and service. Preparations less nuanced that the two above and offerings more the standard Perigord fare (duck, duck, duck), but still very fine food, wine and ambience.

Le Presidial, which I expected to be our premier dinner was a disappointment. Not a large or creative menu, brusk, indifferent service and too big a venue to feel the personality of the chef in the dishes.

Favorite Sarlat activities:
Strolling around town, hanging out in cafes and parks
the Saturday market
a picnic in the rain in Cenac at river’s edge. We’d planned to have our picnic on a two
hour canoe trip but the sprinkles became showers intermittently, so canoe cancelled. the feudal castle at Beynac
the falconry show at Chateau des Milandes
getting lost on one lane roads amid stunning scenery

I didn’t enoy
Lascaux II. Way, way too crowded to “feel” the place and the power of its history (pre-history actually).
Buying a new tire for our rental car; a huge metal implement tore the tire to shreds. We
called EuropeCar and they affirmed that the tire problem was ours.