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Bordeaux & nearby - farms, markets, specialty shops

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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 06:25 PM
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Bordeaux & nearby - farms, markets, specialty shops

I'll be in Bordeaux with family from Dec 26-Jan 2nd. My husband & I are traveling with our 4 year old son. We'll have a car.

My son is a good traveler (& a great eater) & we'd like to take some leisurely trips to local farms (animal farms or food-related farms like dairy, olive oil, jams, honey, etc.) open to the public, markets or spots that sell specialty local artisanal items or food.

Of course, I realize there's a chance they might be closed around the holidays, but I'd like suggestions none the less.

We'd love any suggestions!!!!
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Old Jul 13th, 2010, 06:37 PM
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I doubt you'll find anything like that open at that time of year. They're closed for the season, or if not, certainly closed to be with their families for the holidays. There are regular markets IN Bordeaux, of course, as in any city in France.

It's not a region for olive oil or honey. It's not even about farms. It's all about wine.

If you do end up in the Périgord, the markets there are fantastic, especially in Sarlat and Le Bugue and St-Cyprien. You can find honey there, as well as all kinds of local artisanal products like candied walnuts and other walnut products, including walnut wine, foie gras, confitures of all kinds, especially fig, flavored vinegars, goat cheeses like cabécou, etc., etc.
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Old Jul 21st, 2010, 09:56 AM
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StCirq - thanks for the tip on the Perigord...I'm gathering some information on the area and will certainly make a day trip.

Other than wine/vineyards (which we will explore if open), is there anything else in the area - maybe a specialty shop or market or any type of establishment we shouldn't miss (food, textiles, crafts, etc)?
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Old Jul 21st, 2010, 11:56 AM
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Which area are you speaking of? Bordeaux or the Perigord?

If you're talking about the Perigord, there's a walnut mill in Ste-Nathalene, outside Sarlat, that's very interesting and might be open at that time of year (or not). The markets run year-round. Sarlat: little market Wednesday, big one Saturday. St-Cyprien: Sunday. Le Bugue: little market Saturday, big one Tuesday. Montignac: Friday. Lalinde: Thursday. There are lots of other smaller ones. There's a store outside Le Bugue on the road to Le Buisson called Julien de Sauvignac that has an exceptional collection of local (and other) wines and liqueurs, plus things like the local chocolate-dusted walnuts.

There are specialty shops all over Sarlat - chocolate shops, soap and sundries shops, clothing stores, some of which will be open, but not many. Same for Le Bugue and most other reasonably sized towns. Basically, stores that are selling things that locals need all year long will be open, and ones that are purely for tourists will be closed.

In Bordeaux, your best bet is to head to the rue Ste-Catherine, in the center of town, the pedestrian-only shopping area. Some specialty shops, including lots of wine shops, will be open.

You could visit St-Emilion, too (as a day trip from Bordeaux or on your way to the Dordogne); I'm fairly sure at least some of the wine and macarron stores will be open.

If you visit any of the castles in the Dordogne, there are likely to be stores selling local specialty items open during the castle opening hours.

And don't forget that the local supermarkets are treasure troves of local specialties. We often go to the supermarket on rainy days just to wander the aisles and seek out new food experiences. Same thing for local hardware stores.
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Old Jul 21st, 2010, 12:40 PM
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Thanks again - you are incredible! I'm having a hard time finding anything more than 2 paragraphs on each of these towns in my travel books. The info you've given me is invaluable! I totally agree with your comment on grocery stores - my husband & I did it in Italy & brought back some great things. Never tried a hardware store - I'm curious...what have you found there?
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Old Jul 21st, 2010, 01:38 PM
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Well, mostly I go to hardware stores for practical reasons connected with the latest disaster at my house. But they often have interesting cookware, garden ornaments, candles, pillows, placemats and tablecloths, and other household items.

Oh, and pharmacies, too, forgot about those - great sources for soaps and beauty products, and of course they're open all year long.

You might want to get the Michelin Green Guide to the area, or the Cadogan Guide. Both will have lots of details. You can also visit the Tourist Office websites for any town.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2010, 11:51 AM
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I don't want to be too pessimistic, but you probably underestimate how many things will be closed in the country - certainly in the Perigord - at that time of year. There will be food markets, and since people will be preparing for New Year's Eve (le Jour de l'An) they will have great selections. Then everything dies. Markets that were busy and booming will be virtually deserted. New Year's Day is a holiday and everything will be closed, other than bakeries and butchers providing goodies for lunch. Lots of shops in Sarlat will be closed, as it's not really a big tourist time.

The walnut mill in Ste Nathalene is open on Fridays, but I would have my doubts about 31 Dec, the only Friday you appear to be here.

It's a beautiful place with great food, but it really is the country once the tourists go home, and lots of things close. We once drove from St Cyprien to Sarlat trying to find a restaurant open in November, with virtually no luck. So you need to do some preparation beforehand, perhaps with Michelin green guides.
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Old Jul 22nd, 2010, 02:19 PM
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StCirq - Thanks for explaining about the hardware stores. You're absolutely right about that --- I'll be sure to check them out. I agree about the pharmacies - I found some great stuff at grocery stores & pharmacies around Paris & Italy a few years ago (some nice souvenirs that were less expensive than those sold at tourist shops). Thanks again.

Carlux - I completely agree with you --- I'm sure most things will be closed. But since we'll be staying with family at a house, this will be the more restful & leisurely part of our trip to France. We're arriving in Bordeaux on 12/26 & staying for 7 nights & then traveling by train to Paris on 1/2 for 4 nights. I was just hoping that during our 7 night stay in Bordeaux we could take 2-3 day trips to other towns for a few hours and that maybe there would be some shops open along the way. More than likely on the 12/31 we wouldn't venture out, instead we'll stay at my father-in-law's & have dinner & celebrate.

I will definitely check out the Michelin green guides...thank you both for the wonderful the tip!
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