Bookends Visit to Paris: Trip Deux – How do You Say “Insane” in French?
Jul 24th, 2008, 09:22 PM
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Bookends Visit to Paris: Trip Deux – How do You Say “Insane” in French?
“Débile.” That was certainly the reaction of friends and family when they found out my intention to coordinate my trip plans to meet up with my ex-husband with our kids in Paris for the beginning of their European vacation. Since he was paying their way, I didn’t mind taking advantage of being a part of their first visit to Paris even if it meant hanging out with “him” for part of the time. My current husband must be commended for agreeing to go along with the plan, as long as we didn’t stay in the same hotel, as my ex- had suggested! My husband did extract promises for many ways for me to make it up to him, which is never a problem in Paris!
I got a good deal (100E) on a standard room at Hotel Sully St. Germain in the Fifth, down the hill from the Pantheon on rue des Ecoles. Very convenient location and friendly staff, but our room was unmanageably small with a horrible shower and uncomfortable bed. I needed to save money and cheaped out on the accommodations I’m afraid – lesson learned.
The first day we all met up was Bastille Day; it was sunny and hot. We were all very excited about seeing the parade, but as is typical for a big group, we couldn’t get on the road until later than planned. By the time we arrived, the parade route along the Champs d’Elysees was mobbed, ten deep to the curb. The two men, both at 6-2, could see just fine, but the rest of us just glimpsed the military vehicles – pretty boring. Then the flyovers started with the tri-color smoke trailing Mirage jets booming close overhead – very impressive! We could all see that! Wave after wave of different aircraft followed, in remarkable formation, with helicopter squadrons too. The side streets were lined with tanks and other vehicles, with friendly, and very fashionably dressed military members helping children to climb on top and get their pictures taken.
For the rest of the day, the ex- took the kids (a daughter age 11, and a son age 12, BTW) on a forced march up to Montmatre and even climbing the Arc de Triomphe, despite my pleas to have a rest before the late-night fireworks. While he and his sister went off to a concert, my husband and I took the kids around 9:00 pm to try to find a place to view the show. Without any better advice on where to go, I took a guess that a good vantage point might be Trocadero. What we found there was that the balcony between the buildings was blocked off and we had to stand in a tree-filled square. It was an uncomfortable hour before the show started, standing in the growing crowd, trying to jockey for position. The fireworks were spectacular, but somewhat obscured by the buildings and the trees for us.
Then the real fun began, trying to get back to the hotel near the Pantheon! The Metro stops were open, but just totally jammed with people, queuing up for blocks to get in. We literally fought our way through the crowds going in every which way to try to make our way somewhat in the direction we needed to go. There was one point when we were going down a huge stairway where more people were going up than down. I was terrified of losing the children and we all held hands tightly. We found the Metro line we needed and kept walking and walking from one stop to another to see if there was any hope of getting onto the platform. At about 1:00 am, we sat down, exhausted, to get something to drink at a cafe and right there finally found a stop with a manageable number of people. We got on a train in about 20 minutes and finally made it back to the hotel right about 2:00 am. I have to say, my kids were such troopers throughout this ordeal. They understood there wasn't anything we could do about it and they didn't complain - my feet were aching terribly and I just wanted to sit down and cry! It was certainly a memorable experience – I’ll remember not to do that again!
Once recovered from Bastille Day, the kids went off and did their thing with their dad while hubby and I did some other sightseeing. We had an unplanned, unexpectedly exciting visit to the Jeu de Paume to see the Richard Avedon photo exhibit when the Rodin Museum had too long a wait to get in. You can’t take your eyes off the compelling collection of photos of celebrities and everyday people, shot in his sparse and sometimes unflattering style. Don’t miss it if you’re in Paris during its run!
We had some good meals, most notably at La Petite Perigourdine on Rue des Ecoles near our hotel where we relived our Dordogne food experience with a great meal of pork cutlets with risotto and steak au poivre, with a great wine selection. Then on our last night together, our group of six went to Les Degres de Notre Dame, near the river in the 5th, where they have a menu with both classic French dishes and Moroccan specialties, which I had been craving. My daughter and I had a great couscous with chicken and lamb, a huge serving with stewed vegetables and those traditional golden raisins to add on top. Lovely evening on their terrace, with a very amusing waiter and many bottles of wine to celebrate a successful trip – at least everyone got along well!
After two weeks away from home, even I was ready to return. Despite the few disappointments, the trip was phenomenal and well worth the money and effort. We kissed the kids (and maybe even the ex-) as they departed on the rest of their trip. We splurged on a taxi ride to Charles de Gaulle where the driver saved us from a huge traffic jam by taking another route (65E – worth every centime) and bid farewell for now to Paris.
I got a good deal (100E) on a standard room at Hotel Sully St. Germain in the Fifth, down the hill from the Pantheon on rue des Ecoles. Very convenient location and friendly staff, but our room was unmanageably small with a horrible shower and uncomfortable bed. I needed to save money and cheaped out on the accommodations I’m afraid – lesson learned.
The first day we all met up was Bastille Day; it was sunny and hot. We were all very excited about seeing the parade, but as is typical for a big group, we couldn’t get on the road until later than planned. By the time we arrived, the parade route along the Champs d’Elysees was mobbed, ten deep to the curb. The two men, both at 6-2, could see just fine, but the rest of us just glimpsed the military vehicles – pretty boring. Then the flyovers started with the tri-color smoke trailing Mirage jets booming close overhead – very impressive! We could all see that! Wave after wave of different aircraft followed, in remarkable formation, with helicopter squadrons too. The side streets were lined with tanks and other vehicles, with friendly, and very fashionably dressed military members helping children to climb on top and get their pictures taken.
For the rest of the day, the ex- took the kids (a daughter age 11, and a son age 12, BTW) on a forced march up to Montmatre and even climbing the Arc de Triomphe, despite my pleas to have a rest before the late-night fireworks. While he and his sister went off to a concert, my husband and I took the kids around 9:00 pm to try to find a place to view the show. Without any better advice on where to go, I took a guess that a good vantage point might be Trocadero. What we found there was that the balcony between the buildings was blocked off and we had to stand in a tree-filled square. It was an uncomfortable hour before the show started, standing in the growing crowd, trying to jockey for position. The fireworks were spectacular, but somewhat obscured by the buildings and the trees for us.
Then the real fun began, trying to get back to the hotel near the Pantheon! The Metro stops were open, but just totally jammed with people, queuing up for blocks to get in. We literally fought our way through the crowds going in every which way to try to make our way somewhat in the direction we needed to go. There was one point when we were going down a huge stairway where more people were going up than down. I was terrified of losing the children and we all held hands tightly. We found the Metro line we needed and kept walking and walking from one stop to another to see if there was any hope of getting onto the platform. At about 1:00 am, we sat down, exhausted, to get something to drink at a cafe and right there finally found a stop with a manageable number of people. We got on a train in about 20 minutes and finally made it back to the hotel right about 2:00 am. I have to say, my kids were such troopers throughout this ordeal. They understood there wasn't anything we could do about it and they didn't complain - my feet were aching terribly and I just wanted to sit down and cry! It was certainly a memorable experience – I’ll remember not to do that again!
Once recovered from Bastille Day, the kids went off and did their thing with their dad while hubby and I did some other sightseeing. We had an unplanned, unexpectedly exciting visit to the Jeu de Paume to see the Richard Avedon photo exhibit when the Rodin Museum had too long a wait to get in. You can’t take your eyes off the compelling collection of photos of celebrities and everyday people, shot in his sparse and sometimes unflattering style. Don’t miss it if you’re in Paris during its run!
We had some good meals, most notably at La Petite Perigourdine on Rue des Ecoles near our hotel where we relived our Dordogne food experience with a great meal of pork cutlets with risotto and steak au poivre, with a great wine selection. Then on our last night together, our group of six went to Les Degres de Notre Dame, near the river in the 5th, where they have a menu with both classic French dishes and Moroccan specialties, which I had been craving. My daughter and I had a great couscous with chicken and lamb, a huge serving with stewed vegetables and those traditional golden raisins to add on top. Lovely evening on their terrace, with a very amusing waiter and many bottles of wine to celebrate a successful trip – at least everyone got along well!
After two weeks away from home, even I was ready to return. Despite the few disappointments, the trip was phenomenal and well worth the money and effort. We kissed the kids (and maybe even the ex-) as they departed on the rest of their trip. We splurged on a taxi ride to Charles de Gaulle where the driver saved us from a huge traffic jam by taking another route (65E – worth every centime) and bid farewell for now to Paris.
Jul 25th, 2008, 07:25 AM
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"where we relived our Dordogne food experience with a great meal of pork cutlets with risotto and steak au poivre,"
You must've had some really odd culinary experiences in the Dordogne.........
But thanks for the report - sounds like you're a really good sport.
You must've had some really odd culinary experiences in the Dordogne.........
But thanks for the report - sounds like you're a really good sport.
Jul 25th, 2008, 08:02 PM
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Great to know that you keep good relations with your ex. Many people when divorced become enemies, and I think that hurts the kids.
If you loved someone at some time, there can be no way you can entirely hate everything about that person at another time. I'm glad you found some common ground with your husband and allowed your children to get a great experience.
If you loved someone at some time, there can be no way you can entirely hate everything about that person at another time. I'm glad you found some common ground with your husband and allowed your children to get a great experience.
Jul 25th, 2008, 08:47 PM
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I too salute you and your husband and your exhusband tekwriter. What a fabulous gift you gave your children from your first marriage.
You three adults gave your two precious children a gift no amount of money could buy. Your trip report is hopefully an insperation to other families. As cmenoni said "bless all of you".
You three adults gave your two precious children a gift no amount of money could buy. Your trip report is hopefully an insperation to other families. As cmenoni said "bless all of you".
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