Bologna: A one week itinerary

Another food shop to visit; they are celebrated for bread/pastry:

http://www.paoloatti.com/


Among the most famous stuffed pasta (tortelline, tortellone, etc) makers in the city are the women of Le Sfogline, 7/b Via Belvedere.

You are in an enviable position since you will have your own kitchen!

More on food:


http://www.departures.com/articles/italy-food-lovers-bologna




Sounds like a fantastic trip!

One comment: Can I join you?

It sounds like a lovely trip, well scheduled.I have visited all these place (aside from the food tour) and think you have balanced the time well.

ahhh...2 of my favorite NYC posters have replied!

EK...thanks for the links, I will check them out.

Ellenem...thanks, I'm trying not to cram too much in, (we want to savor the experience!) but it's so hard when I keep reading about this great city and all it has to offer!

The one glitch I see in your plan is that Sunday is not a good day for church touring, at least not in the mornings. Bologna has a number of outstanding and unusual museums and sights that aren't churches -- the Pinocoteca, the Morandi Museum, the anatomical theater -- you might find something at the opera house that appeals to you. Anyway, you'd need to check opening hours for the alternates, but I urge you -- if you are at all interested in Italian painting in the slightest bit -- not to skip the Pinocoteca. It's a truly enjoyable museum and a real eye opener (at least it was for me!) But if you hate museums, skip it!

It is worth stopping by the tourist office and to help ferret out the many small treasures of Bologna -- like the recently restored oratorio of St Cecilia, or the memorial to the WW2 resistance fighters -- that the standard guidebooks don't talk about, but are really right under your nose. The trip up San Luca is rewarding, but more so if you walk either up or down or both -- but none of that is advisable if you have back or any skeletal issues.

Some people go all the way to Ravenna and fail to walk the extra 50 steps to enter the mosaic-encrusted mausoleum of Galla Placidia in the backyard of the church of San Vitale. Don't make that mistake! Be sure to go inside:

http://www.sacred-destinations.com/italy/ravenna-galla-placidia

I spent five nights of my honeymoon in Bologna many moons ago and did much as you suggest. We'd already stopped in Verona for a few nights so didn't day trip from there. We did do a day trip to Ravenna, which I enjoyed so much and that I returned for a two night stay years later. We also did a day trip to Ferrara. We spent the rest of the time seeing the sights of Bologna and a very easy pace, and even spent an afternoon making the 3.5 km porticoed climb to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca.

zeppole...

Thanks for the reminder about Sundays and touring churches, we certainly do want to see some of the museums, so I will make sure to check the opening hours before making any final decisions, so as not to be disappointed.

I've been reading the walk to San Luca can be a bit of a "hike". I may decide to do that on my own while mom does something else...I usually can't pass up a good view, although in November I understand the weather may not be the best, I'm prepared for fog and rain. Thank you for the information about Ravenna...I will be sure not to miss the mausoleum of Galla Placidia.

One question for anyone who may know...

after viewing the link EK posted to Paolo & Atti I'm wondering if we will be too early for panetonne. We'll be there November 12-20. My gut is saying that it may be too early to buy one. I found a fantastic panetonne last year from a bakery near San Francisco and had it shipped to me for Christmas...it arrived several days before the holiday and it was so good it never made it to Christmas day!

I think you can take a bus to the Sanctuary and then walk down.

You can take a bus up. A taxi ride won't break the bank. But I didn't realize you were traveling with your mother, and even assuming she is fit as a fiddle, if you are unused to long walks down stairs, it is a lot of skeletal impact. The reason to go up is not the view, but the over-the-top decor of the shrine, and to enjoy the walk. I suggest you skip it.

There is always something to eat in Bologna. There are many cakes more special to Emilia-Romagna than panetonne as I recall. Try them instead!

http://taste-of-italy.blogspot.com/2010/01/pastry-shops-in-bologna.html

Bookmarking to help with my Bologna trip research (also November). Really good info about San Luca and Ravenna, two activities I've penciled in, as well. Thanks!

But by the end of your stay, you should already find some panettone! Btw, I second zeppole's Galla Placidia advice: among all the gorgeous mosaiques in Ravenna, these are the very best IMO.

On my day trip to Ravenna from Bologna, we were able to see most of the sights that were included in the tourist pass available at the time . . . San Vitale and Galla Placidia, Neonian and Arian Baptisteries, Sant' Apollinaire Nuovo, the Archbishop's palace and chapel. My do-not-miss is to take the frequent local bus (#4 or 44) about 5 km from Ravenna to Sant' Apollinaire in Classe, which I found stunningly beautiful.

Franco...thank you, good to know we may see some panettone while we are there! Of course, I love any kind of cake or pastry, so I am sure I will be sampling all the city has to offer!

ellenem...

Seems like I was posting when you were. Back in the early 80's I went to Italy for the first time with a group from school. My mom also happened to be a chaperone on that trip and it was one of those "If It's Tuesday It Must Be Belgium" student bus tours. One of our stops was in Ravenna to see the mosaics...looking back now and knowing what I know I am positive it was Sant' Apollinarire because it we were not in the center of a city. Part of the reason for including Ravenna in this trip was because my mom remembered how incredible those mosaics were...I on the other hand, being a teenager, gave a cursory glance at the church and wondered about elsewhere.

I've read about the combination ticket available for purchase in Ravenna for the churches and plan to buy that and see as many as we can in the time we are there.

Another thing I've noticed on my visits to it seems as if the bus tours all come through in the morning. In the afternoon we found most places gloriously empty compared to the morning. Since you will be visiting in November, days will be shorter so you may not have this problem, but you will certainly have shorter daylight hours.

I clearly remember visiting San Vitale that first time. When we went outside to visit the mausoleum of Galla Placida, we were confronted with a school group of about 40 teenagers all trying to cram through the very small door at the same time, their three teachers standing to the side having a smoke and paying no attention to the craziness. We retreated to San Vitale and waited for the group to leave. 20 minutes later, we had the mausoleum to ourselves. It was a truly inspirational moment--my traveling companion found the solution to a design problem at work in the ceiling mosaics.

I messed up this thought. Let me try again:

Since you will be visiting in November, there will be less tourists so you may not have this problem, but you will certainly have shorter daylight hours.

ellenem...

I totally got your thought the first time. You are right, our daylight hours will be short, but we will just have to deal with it. We decided to go in November for 2 reasons...lower airfare and maximizing our vacation time from work. We will be away for 2 weeks (we go to Rome for 6 nights after Bologna) and with 3 paid holidays during that time frame in November for us, we will only need to be out for 9 work days...there's always a method to our madness!

I have visited Italy many times in November so I totally understand (and agree with) your viewpoint.

if ellenem is coming, I'm coming too.

actually, I have Bologna shortlisted as a place to do an italian language course, possibly in November. my main dliemma is trying to decide whether to go for one week or two.

by the sound of it, two weeks [with the course as well] would be a minimum.

ann...

I vote for 2 weeks!

I have a co-worker who has done a language course in Bologna, I believe she did a 2 week course and she loved it and Bologna! I believe besides the university, there are a good number of language schools to choose from.

If you decide to go in November post back, it would be great if we could coordinate meeting.

Hi LCI,

that's encouraging. i know when i looked at language schools last year, bologna was towards the top of my list, if not right at the top.

if i go ahead, I'll be in touch!

regards, ann

Ann...

In case you're interested...my co-worker went to Cultura Italiana language school. It's located on Via Castiglione, 4. Here is the link to their website:

www.culturaitaliana.it

mille grazie, LCI.

i have a friend who went on a course in Arezzo - i wonder if it was this one?

Hi Lowcountry -

your itinerary sounds great. Nice and relaxed.

Bologna is a town for pre-eminent people-watching and food shopping. Could spend days doing it. The area around the university is very nice for strolling and taking in the student culture. Also don't forget the Due Torri.

The only thing I might add to the trip is an opportunity to actually explore Parma and Modena - not sure if you are as part of your food experience trip. Most of the food production facilities are on the ouitskirts of these two towns. They are worth a visit if you have the time.

Enjoy!

drdd...

Thanks for the advice on Parma & Modena, will certainly take that into account. The apartment we are renting is not far from the Due Torri, so that is definitely on my list of sites to see!

Hi Low,
I just bumped into a website that I think might interest you if you haven't already discovered it for yourself. Info on Bologna.

http://www.worldfoodieguide.com/index.php/restaurant-reviews-new/italy/
Enjoy. Julie

Julie..

Thanks for the link. I hadn't seen that blog before.

Not sure if it is in your budget but if you could stay overnight in Ravenna (leaving your stuff in your Bologna apartment) I think it would be well worth it. We went for a day trip as well and wished we had more time.

There are a lot of interesting sites in Bologna. Don't miss the museums at the University or the beautiful churches. Good clothes shopping too (although hard after all that eating).

Other than that, I think your trip looks great. I am excited the trip is getting close. I remember you mentioning in the winter that you were planning a trip.

Thanks for purchasing my book. I think it will be useful to you. I would suggest you book a table at Hostaria Giusti in Modena for lunch one day. They are not open every day and fill up, so act now. Ravenna and Verona are great destinations too. Here is an article that might be of interest: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destinations/europe/italy/7758749/Bologna-Italy-My-kind-of-town.html My book will also give you many ideas not only about Bologna but other towns too. Ciao, Fred

Sally...

Thanks for the tips. Right now we are still planning to day trip to Ravenna, but that could change!

Fred...

Thanks for posting here and thanks for the link to your article. I have your book on my dining room table just waiting for me to dig into it!

I second Hosteria Giusti in Modena - they have a web site now so that you can contact them for reservations. Only 4 tables. It was a fantastic experience, one we still talk about.

Here's an excerpt from my trip report:

Long before we arrived, I had asked the concierge at the Orologio to make reservations for us at the famed Osteria Giusti in Modena. When we checked in however, the concierge reported that contact with Giusti had never been established; the hotel’s phone calls and fax had not been acknowledged. This restaurant has been hyped by Mario Batali, and there is a food cult aura around it, but we wanted to give it a go anyway.

Armed with the name of another restaurant as back up, we stopped at vicolo del Squallore 46, on a narrow alleyway to check it out. A sign outside said “al completo” but I opened the door to see three of four tables vacant. The owner (who we learned later was Nano Morandi’s son) came out and I started to explain that we tried to make reservations. But after just three or four words, he gestured to a table, saying “Si. Si. Sit. Sit. Welcome.” So we quickly sat before he changed his mind! He never even asked my name.

A pretty little yellow room with only four tables. Beautiful china, glassware and linens. The wine list was very nice with many famous names and labels. We asked for a recommendation. He suggested Lambrusco of course, the favorite wine of Emilia-Romagna! I was taken aback given that behind my chair was a display of Chateau Petrus bottles dating back to 1967. Now I actually like Lambrusco but we felt the occasion needed something more. He had just the thing. He opened a bottle and poured, and it was delicious. He handed us the bottle. It was a 1999 Barbera d’Asti. His own Giusti label bottled by Coppo.

The lunch was exquisite, hype or not!
Antipasti:
Gnoccho fritto- five airy puffs of dough, each topped with a small slice of cured meat. I recognize salame, proscuitto and lardo.
Fried minestrone fritters topped with a drizzle of aceto balsamico.

Primi:
We each have a half portion of the amazing tortellini in brodo – the pasta is stuffed with a mix of veal, mortadella, proscuitto, parmigiano. The capon broth is clear and rich.

Secondi:
Cotechino fritto – slices of cotechino sausage dusted with flour and grated cheese, sauteed, and topped with a savory zabaglione
A trancio of pork, slow braised in white wine and herbs, served at room temperature with an agrodolce jam of red onions. It sounds so simple but it was a heavenly combination of flavors.

Dolci:
Two half slices of a thin crostata of amarena cherries. We finish off with our usual caffe macchiato.

Cost: 127 euros.

We asked about the wine and the owner shows us into his underground cellar across the alley – Gaja, Pio Cesare, brunellos of all sorts. Hundred of bottles. We bought a bottle of his Barbera as a momento to be enjoyed at home. We then asked about aceto balsamico and he showed us into his shop which usually wasn’t open again until 3:30. We bought an expensive bottle of aged vinegar and a less expensive bottle for salad dressings. Cost of balsamic and bottle of wine: 149 euros.

What an experience! Try to snag a table if you visit Modena. Only open for lunch.

drbb...

Wow...my mouth is watering reading your description of lunch! Thanks for sharing.

Be sure and attend one of the church services. We didn't understand much of the language(did understand a bit about love and John 3:16), but the music was wonderful and it was a very meaningful service.
We are very fond of dogs and there was a man sitting next to me with an adorable Jack Russell terrier. When we stood the dog stood, sat when we sat and was much better behaved than many others in the service. I so wanted to take a picture, but didn't feel that was very respectful in church. Another thing very different for us was watching the parents stroll their babies up and down the side aisles all during the service. Happy travels!!

lovely stories, drbb, and violetduck.

now to work out how i get myself to Bologna for longer than a week! thinking 1 week's language course and a few days either side...flying into Milan...train to..parma, stay 2 nights, then onto bologna, stay a week, then back to Modena, stay 2 nights, home via milan.

now that's a plan!

to sleep, perchance to dream...

ann...

That sounds like a plan to me!

This all sounds so wonderful. I was in Bologna for several days - maybe 5? - with my daughter two years ago in February and we loved it. We loved, and still often talk about, the tour of the balsamic house. It was just the two of us - we booked it online ourselves. I loved, and often think about, the Morandi Museum.

We did the hike up to the church through the porticos and really enjoyed it. Got back to town just in time for a big lunch. If you go up there, perhaps you could take a cab most of the way and then walk the last bit? That would give you the best of the experience as it's truly unique. It was faster going down, more so for my daughter. The knees...

We had lunch after our balsamic tour at Giusti in Modena and it was special. I ordered the famed Cotechino Fritto, my daughter had a lamb or veal shank and we both liked hers better.

We did a day trip to Ravenna, on a Sunday, and that was also a special day.

I could spend a lot more time in Bologna. Might not fit onto the airplane afterwards but it would be fantastic.

OK...

After hearing & reading a bit more about Modena in general and Hosteria Giusti in particular(we do enjoy a good meal!)I'm leaning towards doing a day trip to Modena instead of Verona. Decisions Decisions!

Now I'm thinking just focus the whole week on the Emilia Romagna region and plan to go to Verona on another visit.

LOI, I know it was a long time ago, [before we produced any offspring to accompany us to Italy, and they are now 22 & 19!] DH and I spent a morning in Verona. Perhaps it was because we'd just left Venice and were finding our first morning in our hire car a little trying, perhaps we were a little too hot [it was July], perhaps we were just teasy and missing Venice.

whatever the cause, we were distinctly underwhelmed by Verona.

i'd go for Modena, IIWY. as it's a day trip, you can always change your mind when you're there.

I am thrilled to report I have a confirmed lunch reservation at Hosteria Giusti in Modena for my November trip!

I emailed the hosteria via their website at the beginning of August. I received a lovely reply just the other day apologizing for having taken so long to reply, but they were closed the month of August (I should have known that!)

They confirmed the day I requested...I know, some may think I'm crazy to be excited over a lunch reservation, but I am really looking forward to this place!

Thanks to all for your input! Now the wait is killing me!

Hi Low Country,
Your plans sound great. FYI, if you are in town the second Sunday of the month, there is an antiques market on Santo Stefano, not that far from where you are staying.

Have not done so yet, but all my colleagues here echo Ravenna as a must do. As you probably know already, I liked Ferrara a lot and Modena is high on my list. Happy to share local rerstaurant discoveries since you won't be here for another couple of months. Each day I am loving Bologna more and more (make sure to see the frecoes on Via Farini). It is a terrific walking city and the people are great too.

Kathy

Kathy...

Thanks, it would be great to get any local restaurant discoveries!

Just emailed Jean (on another post) that I was disappointed in lunch today at Caminetto d' Or which gets good reviews.....I liked other places better....will post more as I keep eating!!
Kathy

Thanks Kathy!

Wondering if you are back from bologna trip and any upcoming trip reports on the horizon?

Planning a trip to bologna Rome and puglia as I am laid up with my new knee!

Very interested in the apartment rental in bologna. Preliminary searching isn't finding much that attracts us.

Thank you.

Cindyjo...

I will be leaving in about 3 weeks for my Bologna/Rome trip. I do plan to do a trip report upon my return. Look for something in early/mid December.

Thank you. I always enjoy your reports and look forward to this next one in particular!