bfrac & friends–a parade float in Roma/an angel in Orvieto on the first day

We're all waiting for the next installment, please!

Cant wait to hear about Orvieto, one place i cant wait to see.

Thanks Yvonne and KN,

Finally departure day arrives and the fun begins…

Departure day October 15: I’m packed and ready with one bag to check and a carry on. Checked luggage has plenty of room to bring stuff home. I’m trying to hold it together about leaving Giacomo and the cats; out the door with a little bit of nervousness and holding back tears. Get to PHL early but P and I have vouchers for the US Airways lounge and we get to hang out there in comfy chairs and relative peace and calm. The voucher entitles you to bring a guest so B can hang out with us. We wouldn’t have abandoned her to waiting at the gate.

The flight is uncomfortable and uneventful. We all have aisle seats a little spread out so we aren’t really close enough to converse. Watch movies, nap a little and at 8:20am we land in Roma! The sun is shining and it is a gorgeous day.

Thanks to a printout from www.slowtrav.com we have concise directions through the airport to the car rental office; the only glitch was the elevator wasn’t working so we had to go up the escalator with the luggage. We have rented an Alfa Romeo 159 wagon. It is a super cool looking car. We rented through www.kemwell.com and they included a free Garmin Nuvi which they shipped to P before we left home.

Load the car, P is programming the Garmin for our destination in Orvieto and I pull out my directions and maps. I navigate and B drives. All is well until we get to the exit for the A1 and the Alfa’s engine starts to hesitate a bit. Uh oh, B and I look at each other and say nothing. It continues and then the engine light comes on. Messages start flashing in Italian. We had not thought about needing to study auto mechanics in Italian language until this moment. The fuel gauge starts spinning back and forth from full to empty like Linda Blair’s head in the exorcist.

We pull over at the first service area. The gas attendant shakes his head no, he can’t help but if we go to the first exit which is Settibagni, there is a dealership there that can help us. Ok, off we go; B coaxes it along. No Alfa dealer, everything but Alfa. No help, so we go back to another service station we see. They can’t help either. The car is possessed and that fuel gauge is starting to scare me.

Now the fun really begins. P and I armed with separate cell phones start calling Europcar to try to get some help. Obviously we can’t drive the car without risking blowing the engine and we don’t want our first purchase in Italy to be an Alfa Romeo 159. I can’t tell you how many times we each told our story to a Europcar representative, only to have our calls disconnected when they transferred us to whoever is supposed to help us. By now it is noon. Finally, I am put through to someone in Milan who says he will send a tow truck for us in 40 minutes. We are to go with the driver to the garage and then I am to call him back and he will have located another car for us, then we will have to call a taxi to go get the new car, wherever that may be. 1) I am not happy about the calling him back scenario. 2) The number he gives me appears to be missing a numeral. When I repeat it back to him he assures me it is the correct number. Not to worry. Yeah right.

Forty minutes later to our surprise the rollback truck arrives. The driver is such a gentleman and we are relieved that at least we will be on the move again.

Next B and P are on a parade float…

bfrac,

Gages spinning like Linda Blair's head are NOT a good thing. I'm so sorry you had trouble, but at least you had friends along to hlep.

I can't wait to hear the rest. My neighbors went on an artists tour to Italy last year. I wonder if it was the same company?

The number he gives me appears to be missing a numeral. When I repeat it back to him he assures me it is the correct number. Not to worry. Yeah right.>>

this happens to you as well? I'll have to tell DH - he always says it's me.

looking forward to the happy ending!

Dayle, I don't know what would have happened if we weren't together working it out. I kept thinking to myself, thank God I'm not alone.

ann, It did happen to me and it was not a correct number even though the agent assured me it was valid.

B and P are on a parade float…

While we wait, we endlessly discuss our possibilities of how to get another car, how to get someone on the phone again to help us, which office we might go to, etc. I really want to avoid driving in Rome on a Friday afternoon during rush hour. Giacomo and I returned a rental car in Rome in 2006 and it wasn’t as easy as we thought it would be. We thought we had clear directions to the rental office on Via Cipro but we took one exit too soon off the A90 (toward stadio, this comes back to haunt to me 3 years later). Anyway, I digress.

The truck arrives and we all jump out because we’re so excited something is at least happening now. The driver is looking at the three of us and P and B elect me as spokesperson. He hops in the Alfa and moves it behind his truck and starts doing chain stuff. I say, “We are going with you, yes?” “Si, signora.” Then he looks at P and B, and asks me if they will please get in the car so he can load it onto the rollback. This is my first laugh of the day, I just can’t help it. They are going to ride in the car, on the rollback! I see the trip report starting to take shape.

P and B have by now figured out what is going to happen and start laughing. “Yaay, it will be just like riding on a parade float!” and out comes the camera. We’re punchy at this point. P photos them ascending onto the truck and the ride down the highway, all the while they are perfecting their queenly waves at the folks staring at them.

Meanwhile in the front of the truck I ask the driver where we are going – you guessed it, into Rome. Funny thing, we take the exit for stadio and I see the exact place with the porchetta wagon where Giacomo and I had stopped to reassess our position three years earlier. But the biggest difference is that this driver knew where he was going and I actually saw the stadio this time.

We arrive at the garage, which is closed for siesta, so the driver hangs with us since he can’t leave the car until someone shows up. He is so sweet, he even offers to take us for coffee at the bar on the corner. P and I start the phone calling again to find out where to go for our next car. No luck. That number the agent gave me did not work and we were back to square one, having to explain what was going on and getting disconnected time after time. We are debating going back to the airport or to a local office to try and get a car when a nice man starts talking to the tow truck driver and offers to talk to the Europcar people for us. One more time P makes the call and hands the phone to him. Lots of loud, rapid fire Italian of which the best we can make out is that we are three women, left on the street with our bags and no car and someone must get us a car now. Success! He hands the phone back to P and she is told by a nice lady that she will call a local office and arrange a car for us. She will call right back. Oh no, not again, but she does and has a car for us not too far away. Hugs to the tow truck driver and our telephone liaison. A taxi is called and we are off. Hmmm, we’re on Via Cipro, I’ve been here before. BTW, the taxi driver is absolutely gorgeous.

Europcar agents pay for the taxi and once again we are standing in the street with our bags. The first guy comes out with keys to a Fiat Punto and sees all the bags and goes back to find another car. It appears and all we can do is laugh. It is a Fiat Qubo in the ugliest shade of green you have ever seen. I mean you can see this green from space.
And we’re off, with B at the wheel, in the midst of Friday afternoon rush hour traffic in Rome.

Next, our angel in Orvieto and, yes, it is still the first day…

Oh, gosh, what fantastic memories you have made, already!!

I'm loving your trip report so far! I would have been absolutely exhausted on your first day.

bfrac,
This is priceless!! It is always a GOOD thing to have a gorgeous taxi driver. I had a gorgeous and helpful taxi driver in Naples... Does make the day a bit better, si?

Unfortunate about the shade of green! Look at this this way - easier to find in the parking lot!

Oh it was very easy to find in a parking lot! If you Google Fiat Qubo, it comes up with the green ones. People were actually looking at the car and laughing.

We were so tired and hungry, it was beyond imagining. We were just fueled by adrenaline at this point in the day. Luckily I had packed a baggy of almonds in my carry on and this is what we ate that day.

That taxi driver... when we arrived at the Europcar office I handled unloading the luggage with him and asked him how much for the fare and he answered dodici and he must have thought I was illiterate because I couldn't help but stare. Luckily one of the agents appeared and paid him.

I quite like that jaunty green!!

It was a very reliable car and it worked out well for us since Artist in Italy was on an estate with hilly white roads. It certainly gave us something to talk about and remember.

Enjoying your report . . . and waiting to hear if you actually ever arrive at your destination!

bfrac...just found your report...bookmarking to read and follow!

"I’m so happy I should be twins. "

A wonderful thought! The site for the art week looks very inviting. Great prices also. So sorry about your car probs but color being the theme, perhaps the green one was meant to be...

I'm lovin' the trip details...blow by blow and I'm enjoying the way you write.
Will continue to read as you continue to write.

bfrac...

What a first day! But at least you had a handsome taxi driver!

Love your writing style...looking forward to more of your adventure!

Thanks everyone, I appreciate the comments. I will write some more this afternoon after I get some work done.

OK I was curious enough so I googled it. I laughed! Bright, yes, but it could have been much, much worse! Just think about all the lovely descriptive words used to describe some shades of green......insert little sick- faced icon.

Dayle, trust me, everyone laughed. It really kept us entertained all week. But I will always remember that car with fondness and good memories.

Yes, it is still October 16, day one…

One thing I forgot to mention on the previous post was that Giacomo had asked me to call him and let him know we arrived and were safe and sound. Well, I hadn’t called because he would have been worried sick if he knew what was going on. So while I’m riding in the tow truck my phone rings. It’s Giacomo. “You’re never going to believe where I am… in a tow truck.” I was right, he was worried and called Professoressa and just about anyone that would talk to him to get him through the day. I promised I would call back when we arrived at our hotel. I think P had emailed her husband and B’s husband was waiting to hear from one of the others.

So we’re off, happy to be driving again and in control. Little do we know there is one more hurdle to overcome.

P is reprogramming Garmin, B is creeping along in traffic while building up her left calf and thigh muscles on the clutch and I’m reading maps. It takes at least an hour or more to get out of Rome and onto the A90 again. Finally, we are back on the A1 and happily blow by the exit for Settibagni. New territory ahead!

B admits exhaustion and I volunteer to drive, so we stop at the Autogrill for something to drink and to switch drivers. When we park to go in I’m worrying about our luggage being in view and someone breaking into the car. P says, “No one will think we have anything worth stealing because they will know we have no taste just by looking at this ugly car.” Very true.

Back on the road and we exit for Orvieto in no time at all. I have my Viamichelin directions to drive up into town and the hotel said once we get into town to follow the signs for the hotel, and we have the Garmin programmed with the address of the Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini; sounds simple. Up into the hills we go.

My cell phone rings, B answers it; it is P’s husband calling to see what is going on. P’s phone is not working, will call back soon, she promises.

It soon becomes apparent that Garmin does not like Orvieto. I am trying to follow Garmin’s directions and we do not see any signs for our hotel. Garmin takes us into a parking lot for some kind of official looking building. I retrace our steps and go back to the lot by the funicular and we still don’t see any signs for the hotel.

Garmin is recalculating and we start off again. Turn left in 300 yards – there is no left turn. Recalculating – turn left in 200 yards – there is no left turn. We are doing our best to read the signs and finally see one sign for the hotel. Our car will not fit down that street. It is getting dark. Recalculating.

My cell phone rings and B answers; it’s Giacomo still worried because he hasn’t heard from me. B tells him we are in Orvieto but not at hotel yet, will call soon… promise. He calls Professoressa again with an update.

Recalculating! She’s getting testy. Please drive the highlighted route! There is no highlighted route. I see a restaurant parking lot and stop. I’m done. We can walk from here. Okay, I’ll call the hotel and ask them to come get us. Actually, I beg. He (Jude) is so nice and patient, but only two people are on staff and he can’t leave. He tries to tell me how to get to the hotel from where we are, it is just a couple of turns, but I’m shutting down at this point. I see an angel in the form of a young man walking across the parking lot and ask him for help. He probably thinks I’m crazy but agrees and gets directions from Jude on the phone and tries to tell me.

I say, “What is your name?” “Nikky.” “Nikky, can you drive us there?” Of course he will because he will never be rid of us unless he does, and I seriously doubt he wants us for his dates that night. I hand him the keys and climb into the back with B and sit/lay across the coats, cameras, etc. P is riding up front and finds out our Nikky is really Russian, living and working in Orvieto.

In about 3 minutes our angel Nikky delivers us to the front door of the Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini www.hotelpiccolomini.com . We all hug and kiss Nikky and give him a tip for being so kind to three exhausted and stressed ladies. Jude is waiting for us and we are finally at our home for the night.

Jude quickly assesses the situation and makes us a reservation immediately at Le Grotte del Funaro. A good meal and bottle of Sagrantino di Montefalco fix all that went wrong today and we are quite giddy that we finally made it. Dinner consisted of three appetizers which none of us remember because we devoured them so quickly, B had the assorted meat dinner, P had Chianina steak in a red wine sauce and I had wild boar with roasted potatoes. Two bottles of water and I can’t recall if we had dessert or coffee. Total was €87.

Short walk back to hotel and bed.

Day two, pizza and wine for breakfast

bfrac! If only I had known you were going to Orvieto and staying at Palazzo Piccolomini - I could have told you exactly where to park and how to get to the hotel.

We stayed there 3 nights quite a few years ago, but believe me, it's definitely in the permanent memory banks!

Can't to hear how you liked the hotel and town!

Glad to read that you finally made it to the Piccolomini. I've stayed there two different times while visiting Orvieto! Waiting for more of your report.

Dayle, did you drive to the hotel? That is what they told us to do and then they took the car away which we were only too happy to let them do. Please tell me what you did so I can note it for next time. I definitely want to go back there with Giacomo.

Simpson, we liked the Piccolomini very much. Did you drive too? More report tomorrow.

I wish you'd warned us we needed sunglasses to view the Qubo. I can imagine the laughing now that I've seen it!

The Qubo was efficient, exceptionally comfortable in the back seat, but bright....yet fun.

Bfrac, it is sooooo much fun to relive these experiences and you capture them so well. In Orvieto, it was like our GPS was having a melt down....just like us!

The photos we have of us on the tow truck bed are priceless....it certainly must be illegal to ride on a tow truck in Italy...but we did, nevertheless.

It is funny how none of us remember what we ate for appies at Le Grotte...we usually take a photo of every dish! Just goes to show how tired we were...having been awake and alert for almost 40 hours!!!!!

So many Rome trip reports, so little time!

Looking forward to reading this tonight...

~M

Buon giornio Bfrac!

Bookmarking to later read about your amazing adventure....

bfrac,

We parked at the parking structure beneath town. We didn't know where the hotel was, so called them and they came and picked us up. We got the easy way, I admit! However, the hotel let us know that we could take the underground acensori (SP?) - escalators!!! They go right from the parking structure and up multiple escalators and come right out just a fews steps from the Palazzo Piccolomini. We went up and down several times over the 3 days were were there, doing day trips out. We travel light and our rollers easily fit on the acensori, just like at the airport.

So, drivers to Orvieto take note.

Funny, I was thinking the same thing about riding in the car on top of the tow truck! Never in the US, what with lawyers, insurance and rules. Only in Italy!

What a fantastic adventure so far.

We loved the escalators from the parking lot in Orvieto. They went on and on and on and.....

~Myra

Myra, we didn't see them since we drove into town but I'm sure next time I will opt to use them. Thanks for reading. Will update soon.

We have renamed our gps thing "Go Back" because that's often what it says to us!

Orvieto hotel looks wonderful.

Glad you finally arrived and with a story to tell.

TD, I know what you mean about the gps. I still rely on my maps more than it, but in some cases I liked it.

Having just had my first experience with a GPS in the mountains of NC, I've decided I will rely on my own excellent sense of direction and map reading abilities (and gut instinct) in Europe!

Dayle, good plan.

Although I have to say that on our last day our driver in Rome relied on one and it worked great in Rome. I was very impressed.

Dayle, thanks for that info about where you parked. I will definitely note it for the next time. I am hoping to take Giacomo to Orvieto next trip, especially since we didn't get to spend as much time there as we had hoped.

Day two, what time is it? pizza and wine for breakfast

By the way, we did call our husbands before we went to dinner the night before to assure them that we were in our hotel and safe and happy. We called Professoressa too, to assure her we were fine and to thank her for giving support to Giacomo. She said once he told her we were lost in Orvieto, she knew we would be okay because it isn’t that big and we could walk if we had to.

Hotel Palazzo Piccolomini is a gem and we just loved it. We had the triple room, which consisted of one bedroom with two beds and then a few steps down was another room like a little cave or monks cell with a single bed. Also, a very nice bathroom with shower and all the nice amenities you could want, even slippers.

So, Saturday, October 17 dawns and we miss the dawn. We miss breakfast too. I awake to hear P and B discussing what the time might be and we realize it is 10:38 am. Darn, we missed breakfast. How did that happen? And we were going to miss the 11:00 am underground tour, too, but after yesterday I guess we deserved a good sleep. So while I am showering B goes in search of a bancomat and comes back to tell me she found a store named after me! We all set off to explore Orvieto and take pictures of me under the sign of Laboratorio Artigiana di Betta. Unfortunately, it was closed and I couldn’t buy anything.

P and B had been in Orvieto about a year and a half ago so they knew their way around. We wandered the streets just enjoying being there, taking lots of photos, on the lookout for breakfast and found L’Antica Piazetta. It looked as good as any so we went in and ordered a pizza each (two margharitas and a white) and a carafe of the house red which tasted like vinegar but improved the longer we sat there; it sure wasn’t Sagrantino. This is truly the breakfast of champions, the heck with Wheaties. The waiter wasn’t much fun but the owner started making the rounds and serving and he was much more personable. We also had a panna cotta, tiramisu, and the house crème caramel that were all excellent. I don’t have the receipt for this one because we paid cash.

Onward we go to the Duomo. What can I say, it is spectacular and one of my dreams come true. To see the beauty of the Duomo against the bluest of skies is breathtaking. I can’t believe the detail of the stonework and mosaics on the outside and inside my jaw drops. I love the contrast of the black and white stone and the timber roof is unlike any other cathedral I have been in. Photographs can’t begin to capture it; it is something that must be experienced and burned into your soul.

We meet up in the Cappella del Corporale and find P sitting and crying. “Oh dear P, what is wrong?” “It is so beautiful” she replies, “I can’t believe I didn’t come inside last time.” And I will let P chime in and finish the rest of the story if she so chooses.

We continue on beyond the Duomo to a scenic overlook and then I go back to the Duomo to just sit a bit on the steps and savor the moment because our time here is so short. P and B catch up and all too soon we have to go back to the hotel and check out for the next stage of our journey.

Jude brings the green car back and exiting Orvieto is easy as pie. The street right next to the hotel has a sign for the A1 and we are on the main road in minutes and down the hill we go. We are to meet our host for the next week by 4:30-5:00 in Moiano, a little town outside of Chiusi, but in Umbria. He advised us to get there before dark and it was good advice.

When we arrive in Moiano we call Julian and tell him we are at the Total gas station, he can’t miss us. Of course, he is laughing as he pulls up next to the Qubo. We follow him through town and onto the white roads, up and down, and turning and I wonder if I will ever be able to find my way in and out of here, certainly never in the dark.

We arrive at his charming country house and are greeted by Tufo, the truffle hound. Our apartment is beyond our expectations. We have two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a huge living room and eat in kitchen. You can see it on their website www.artistinitaly.com; it is the apartment with the brick arch. Our view is of the hills covered with olive trees and Chiusi in the distance.

Dinner is served in the studio and we arrive for drinks and to meet the rest of the group. We actually couldn’t have picked a better group to be with. Two women, Jo and El were friends traveling together from New York City and the other woman was Ja from Lewes, De. So we are all from the same region and relatively close in age; it promises to be a great week.

Amanda, Julian’s wife is a fantastic cook and tonight serves us bruschetta with three different toppings, rocket, pasta with pesto sauce and gelato for dessert. Included every night is limitless red wine which Julian said is a local rosso that he takes his bottles and has refilled. It was quite good. There is also a white but I never had any of it. I’m a red girl all the way.

This has been a perfect day and we toddle off to bed.

Hopefully this installment wasn’t too boring after our adventurous first day…

Tomorrow Jo and I venture out to conquer some hills and hopefully find our way back…

"and a carafe of the house red which tasted like vinegar but improved the longer we sat there"

Love it!

And so there I sat in that magnificent chapel crying my eyes out at the shear beauty of the frescoes, the reliquary and the wonderful light coming in through the oculus and B says to me, "didn't you see this the last time you were here?" and I said "nooooo (sniff) I was eating cheese". And that is exactly what I was doing....a friend had gone to the cheese shop and had gotten the most incredible pecorino with truffles, along with some boar salami and amazing rustic bread...and offered to share with me. There was no contest....I think I cried my way through that wonderful little bench picnic as well as I sat across from the facade of the Duomo and watched the sun sparkle off of the glass and gold mosaics....a unique experience to say the least.

Brava, pegret.

bfrac - you have really sold Orvieto to me.

I'm going to start NOW trying to fit in a day trip while we are in Rome in February.

what would you prioritise to see in one day?

where would you eat lunch?

is monday a good day or are most things shut?

pegret91 you are forgiven! The cheese, salami and bread can't be denied in Italia.

bfrac, keep it going-great report.

TDudette......a person after my own heart.....through my stomach....especially in Italia!!!! LOL

Ann, we had on our agenda to visit the Duomo and the underground tour. Unfortunately our plans had to be modified with the late arrival on our first day. If you are taking the train from Rome and want to do the underground tour (open every day) try to get there as early as possible because the english tour is at 11:00 am. http://www.orvietounderground.it/index.php?lang=en Then you could sightsee and shop around, have lunch, see the Duomo and back to Rome.

Le Grotte del Funaro, where we had dinner is open for lunch and I would go back there again in a heartbeat. It was delicious and such a cool grotto setting. http://www.grottedelfunaro.it/eng.htm We were the only english speaking patrons on a Friday night, the others were all italian.

Enjoy!

@bfrac: I am definitely going to take your suggestions on Orvieto and thanks for sharing such a fun adventure!

hi bfac,

it looks like there are two trains that would get us there - one that arrives at about 9.50 am and the other at 10.23.

would the 2nd one give us enough time to get to the underground tour do you think?

if we wanted to eat at the restaurant you mention, would it be a good idea to book?

thanks for all your great info and for sharing it with the rest of us,

regards, ann

"is monday a good day or are most things shut?"

annhig, I have been scouting this out since we are taking a Rome to Orvieto day trip in December.

According to the guidebooks, Underground Orvieto, Duomo and St. Patrick's Well are all open on Mondays, however Le Grotte del Funaro is closed on Mondays.

hi tom,

thanks for that.

perhaps we will go on a saturday or sunday instead. [the food looks very good there - not that that's all I'm interested in of course!]

any chance you'll be posting a TR before we leave in February for our trip to Rome?

how funny that we're following you around again.

do you know where are you going to in the trip AFTER the Rome one?

What a great read...your first day adventure will be what you remember for years after, never the ordinary happenings.

Ann, I would take the earlier train just to be on the safe side. That way you have plenty of time and will be sure not to miss the tour if that is something you really want to do. Oh, I just realized that the underground tour only operates on Saturdays and Sundays in February. Check out the website for full details.

The restaurant does accept reservations and our hotel made one for us, but it did not appear to be necessary.

Tom, I brought home a brochure from le Grotte del Funaro and it doesn't say anything on it about being closed on Monday. Where did you find that info? That would be important to know for sure...

Carol, thanks. We can now look back on it and laugh and appreciate the fact that we survived it.

Jo and I venture out to conquer some hills and hopefully find our way back…

Sunday, October 18 – last night Jo volunteered to go adventuring with me. That will be cool; her last name ends in a vowel too, so we should be bulletproof.

She is starting her second week at Artist in Italy, but not doing the artist part this week. She decided to stay on and meet up with her friend El who is doing the program, then Jo leaves on Thursday to visit someone in Bologna and then they are going to meet up again in Venice, sounds great. So, all that to explain why she is willing to go off with me and sightsee.

We all meet at breakfast and decide to leave at 10:00. I have my maps and pages torn out of a guidebook for each town I want to visit. Today’s agenda includes Citta della Pieve and Montepulciano.

I’m a little nervous to be heading into another hilltown after the Orvieto incident with the gps melting down and determine that I will not go through any gates even if it means a long walk uphill from the parking area.

Julian consults with me on my maps and agrees Citta della Pieve is a good starter hilltown and then after we conquer that to go on to Montepulciano. Most importantly he programs his home address into Garmin so we might return.

Jo rides shotgun and is in charge of Garmin, reading signs and studying the white roads for any clue that will help us find our way back to the house. Citta della Pieve is only about a 15 minute drive and I skirt around the town wall to a parking lot that appears to be free and take the most level spot available. I have no intention of parking on a hill and testing the hand brake or my ability not to roll into another parked car.

This town is all brick which is quite unique and unusual in a country known for stone. It is also popular for its Festa dei Fiori in June on the Sunday nearest the summer solstice. The streets are carpeted in flowers in beautiful designs to honor S.Luigi Gonzaga, protector of the Casalino Terziere.

We check out little side streets and alleys which are covered with window boxes and planters still in full, lush bloom. This is just amazing because we are freezing cold. The wind is blowing and it is unseasonably chilly for mid-October. We make our way around the square and stop into a bar for caffe and to warm up. Everything seems to be closed because it is Sunday morning but we’ll be back tomorrow with Julian to see some artwork.

On to Montepulciano, Garmin doesn’t agree with the map and a magic moment for both of us

"le Grotte del Funaro and it doesn't say anything on it about being closed on Monday. Where did you find that info? That would be important to know for sure..."

saw it on Frommer's site. Hope it is wrong, because we are going to Orvieto on a Monday.

Tom, I can't find anything about them being closed on their website either. Frommer's is probably wrong but if you are going on a Monday you could email them to doublecheck. info@grottedelfunaro.it

As bfrac noted, our hotel made our reservation for dinner at Grotte del Funaro and because they did, we got a discount on our dinner. Don't remember the percentage but it was significant. You might want to ask your hotel to do the booking.

bfrac, I have sent an email and will give the answer when I receive it. Thanks for such a great report!

The hotels whose guests receive a discount are listed on the restaurant's Web site.

If Grotte del Funaro doesn't work out, you might want to try I Sette Consoli. Plenty of reviews on Fodor's/Slowtrav, etc.
http://www.isetteconsoli.it/

Thanks, Tom! More later today after I take care of some business.

Enjoying this so much.

looks like saturday for our trip to Orvieto then, as we are hoping to go to the england-Italy rugby match on the sunday.

our week's itinerary is beginning to fill up!

keep it coming bfrac - I'm agog to read what happens next.

Hi bfrac, this is a lovely report. I'm so glad you were able to get through that awful first day! Hope you have time for another chapter soon. Cathie.

We ate dinner at the Grotte del Funaro last October but we were not too crazy about it because it was full of tour groups.

Thanks annhig and cathies, I'm so happy you are enjoying it. Saraho, that's too bad, we appeared to be the only non-Italians there that night and our meals were excellent.

Now more of the story...

On to Montepulciano, Garmin doesn’t agree with the map and a magic moment for both of us

Back to the Kermit Car which is still parked in its nice flat pullout spot and we head down the hill toward Chiusi. Garmin is on its game and is directing us nicely; it guides us around Chiusi and toward Montepulciano. Uh oh, it wants us to take No. 326 to Montepulciano instead of No. 146 which looks like a more direct route on the map. Pull over and consult map… we take a vote and decide to go with Garmin this time and see what happens.

It doesn’t take long to get there and we enjoy the drive and seeing the olive trees and vines along the way. We get into Montepulciano and before I know it I’m at the gate and a parking lot to my left so I pull in but there aren’t any spots and others have pulled in behind me so after some fancy maneuvering and a couple of stalls, we’re out of there and go back to the light and take a left into another lot (the one with the TI booth).

By now it is after Noon and we’re famished so we start off at Enoteca di Bacco for a snack and some wine tasting. It’s ok, but we should try some more before we buy.

It is quite cold and windy but we don’t mind too much because we are so taken with the town. Everyone must be heating with wood fires because the smell of wood smoke is throughout the whole town and it smells wonderful and crisp like fall should smell.

The most oft repeated phrase of the day is “Oh God, look at this.” The views are spectacular and around each turn in the street is just another unique door or window or finial or staircase or arch that must be photographed.

All this fresh air and we are starving so we stop for lunch at Ristorante il Cantuccio www.ristoranteilcantuccio.com . It is closed Mondays according to the card. One of my culinary quests of this trip is to sample as many ribollita as possible in order to perfect my recipe. This restaurant does not disappoint and it ends up being the best of the trip. They only offer wine by the bottle and we decide to pass on that since I have to drive back home.

Feeling much warmer and fortified we continue on with our exploring and looking in a few shops along the way. I am hoping to find Bottega del Rame, the coppersmith shop of the Maestro Mazzetti http://www.rameria.com/inglese/tradition.html . If you haven’t heard of him and know his story, take a moment and look at the website. Maestro Mazzetti and his wife are dear people and he is the third generation to work the copper and the last of his line to work it.

Luck is with me since I don’t have the address and we come across the shop with Signora Mazzetti who sells her husbands creations. I have been yearning for one of his pots and purchase a good sized casserole pan for making risotto and memories. We really enjoy talking with the Signora who doesn’t speak any English at all but is a good sport with our attempts at Italian.

The next corner we turn to head toward the Piazza Grande and see Maestro Mazzetti’s Ramaio. OMG, we quietly go up to the door and peek in, we don’t want to disturb the Maestro at work. Well, not to worry, he looks up from his work and with an endearing smile and open arms he welcomes us into his workshop. He shows us his tools, tells us his story, shows us what he is working on, asks where we are from, names, etc. And then, he makes us a gift to take home and remember him by. Honestly, I will carry the warm memory with me forever. It was a magic moment. Baci e abbracci and we are reluctantly on our way.

Next is the Piazza Grande that is almost empty but for a few families with children in strollers and one on a little trike. It is incredibly calm and peaceful, so untouristy this Sunday afternoon. We contemplate coming back for a week and staying within the walls and doing a total immersion school.

Allora, it is getting late and we want to get home before dark. We do take a few moments to stop into a wine shop (sorry don’t remember the name) with about 30 different wines open for tasting. I found a Vino Nobile to take back to the apartment for the cocktail hour and we were on the road to home.

No problems at all getting back to Moiano but then Garmin doesn’t want to go home the same way that we do. She wants to take a white road that we haven’t been on before and I am very sure of how to get through town and the main gate of the estate. So far so good, we almost make it but the final turn into Julian and Amanda’s driveway doesn’t look familiar so we end up take a lovely tour of the estate.

Home sweet home and greetings by Tufo. What a wonderful day.

Next...
Who knew Etruscans were such bohemians and footprints on the floor

If you want to see my Montepulciano shot, please see the site below. You have to scroll through a few NYC shots but you'll recognize the velvet fields we viewed.

Wonderful report.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32219995@N07/?saved=1

Dudette, great photos! I sure do recognize those fields. If I can figure out how to do photos I will post some too.

Sorry for the delay, I have been busy working. I plan on posting more later today.

Etruscans and footprints on the floor
Thanks for hanging in with me if anyone is still reading…

Monday, October 19 – Today the artist group is going to Chiusi for a tour of the Duomo and the Museo Nazionale Etrusco and I get to tag along. Julian leads the way first to the Romanesque Duomo which I find most interesting because it uses all recycled Roman pillars. Even stonework on the outside of the chiesa has been recycled and we noticed much of it had been placed upside down. This is because they were pagan and supposedly turned upside down to ward off the pagan spirits. There is also a salvaged Roman mosaic under the high altar and there appears to be a mosaic on the back wall in need of repair when in actuality it is a fresco made to look like a mosaic.

We cross the street to a bar for caffe and to warm up; it is still windy and cold. Thus fortified some want to check out a little shop across the street and I decide to make use of the facilities before going back outside. Well, this is my third trip to Italy and my first sighting of the footprints on the floor sort. So I decide to pass and brave the cold wind anyway.

Next up is the Museo Nazionale Etrusco. Chiusi was one of the most powerful cities in the Etruscan federation, reaching the 7th and 6th centuries BC. The museum was founded in 1871 and has a wonderful collection of Etruscan material recovered from excavations in the Chiusi area. Julian was a wonderful guide explaining pieces in the greatest detail and bringing them to life for us. Admittedly, I knew little about it before the tour and learned of the nomadic lifestyle of the Etruscans and that they seemed to live for pleasure. Guess that’s why they didn’t last, too much partying.

We had a nice break for lunch consisting of more great pizza and wine and then wandered the old town. The old town is charming and I would recommend a visit there.

Then Julian wants to take us to Citta della Pieve to see a fresco by Pietro Vannucci, otherwise known as Il Perugino. I don’t mind going back again because it is such a beautiful town and I’m still amazed by the uniqueness of it being all brick. Back to Perugino, the fresco is in the Oratory of Santa Maria dei Banchi. It’s just one room, one fresco and you can’t help but wonder how Perugino managed to paint this enormous masterpiece in 28 days.

Another stop at the bar for caffe and hot chocolate and then back home to rest and prop our feet up on the warm radiator.

Tuesday is planned to be a big day; B and I are going on a scenic drive for photography.

Next... Stu Dudley is our hero! Hilltown highlights.

Yeah Stu!

Stu’s tour rocks and hilltown hopping

Tuesday, October 19 – dawns another beautiful blue sky day, the wind has died down and it is warmer. This is going to be the most perfect day to do the southern Tuscany driving itinerary.

We are off with B at the wheel for the “going” portion of the day and I will do the return drive. This way we both get to have a turn at enjoying the scenery. I am prepared with a printout of Stu’s itinerary, TCI map of Tuscany and of course, Garmin, with a final destination of Montalcino programmed. It does a great job of guiding us around Chiusi (I can do this myself by now, but just like to make sure Garmin is still on it) and when we come to the turn for No. 146 it goes nuts and doesn’t want us to turn. Too bad, we are on a mission.

It seems like around every turn in the road is another fantastic view. We stop at almost every pull-off to take photos. Per Stu’s instructions we do not stop at Montepulciano at this time since I have already been and we decide if we have time on the way back we will stop so B can see it, which she really wants to do since I came back so enthused on Sunday. After leaving Montepulciano we pull over to take pictures looking back at the town. It is just spectacular.

On toward Pienza we come upon a little field filled with sheep grazing or “Pecorino on the hoof” as B calls it. Yes, of course, we stop to take photos. The coolest thing was that they weren’t fenced in at all and they were each wearing a bell so there we were in the midst of the sheep in the warm sunshine and all was quiet except for the music the sheep were making.

Not much farther down the road we have to stop again to photograph a beautiful estate. I have no idea what it is but it sits atop a hill surrounded by umbrella pines, cypress and olives cascading down the hill. The main building has a square tower if anyone can identify it.

We approach the old part of Pienza and according to the printout we are to park in a lot on the left. It is right where it is supposed to be and we are happy to find plenty of space. We enter through the Porta al Murello and go into a bar immediately to the left. We are both craving caffe and a pit stop.

Just before Piazza Pio we take a walkway that is brick paved in a herringbone pattern, which is unusual. There are beautiful views from here of the countryside and I am especially moved by a white road lined with cypresses that disappears into the distance. It is like the soldiers marching away…

We go into a few shops and B finds a beautiful sketchbook and a gift for one of our friends while I go back to try and decide which cheese shop to purchase from. Did I mention the village smells like cheese? It is such a nice smell if you are a pecorino fan. I found a nice aged pecorino wrapped in walnut leaves to take back to the apartment and we decide we have to move on. This day is about the countryside.

More later after I cook dinner…

bfrac...

I'm still with you and loving every bit of your report. You have taken me back to a trip to Tuscany I made 5 years ago with a group of friends...ahhhhh the memories!

Thanks so much LCI for letting me know you're still here. I had a busy week and didn't get to write much but now I'm back at it. I had friends over tonight and they wanted to see my photos so now I have a nice warm buzz again. There is something about Italy that is deep within me...

Guests are gone, wine is gone, dishes are cleaned up and now the story continues…

We leave Pienza and stop soon after leaving town to look back and take photos of each other with Pienza in the background. The fields have all been plowed so they are a grey, bleached out color which is so different from the pictures in books we are used to seeing but no less beautiful by any means. The soil looks like gravel but is actually dry clumps of clay that easily break apart in your hand.

Stu’s route states the following: “Just 2k from San Quirico, there is a splendid view to the south of a very small church and another building with cypress tress and umbrella pines surrounding these buildings. This site is on the crest of a hill. If you have been in Tuscany for any length of time, you will have seen this view on many postcards and calendars.” And there it is. A scene from a book come to life. Next is the farmhouse surrounded by cypress trees and then beyond San Quirico the ridge with cypress trees and umbrella pines. We are awed by the stark beauty of it and so grateful to Stu for taking the time to note all of these wonderful sights and to share them. Thank you Stu for this gift.

We arrive at Montalcino following the detailed directions and chicken out at the last minute and don’t take the last right to the car park he suggests near the fortress. Honestly, after the events of driving in Orvieto, going into the old town scares the daylights out of us so we hug the wall and find a nice car park just a little further on. We pay at the box and get our ticket and take a moment to help another couple figure out the system and chat for a bit. Then we start climbing what must be 1000 steps up into town. I’m not kidding there were a lot of them. The top of the town is deserted and so quiet and peaceful. We don’t have a map of the town and eventually run into the parking lot couple who do have a map and determine which way to go for restaurants, etc.

I really like Montalcino a lot and it would be hard to decide if I would prefer to come back and stay here or in Montepulciano. They are both wonderful but different. Montalcino is smaller and I like the feel of it, it immediately felt very comfortable. And Brunello is my favorite of the Tuscan wines.

By now it is around about 1:30 and we are weak after the climb up those steps. We have lunch at Osteria di Porta al Cassero. B orders cinghiale with polenta and I have brushetta and papa al Pomodoro and we share a bowl of beans. They serve Brunello by the glass. B’s cinghiale with polenta is to die for, I mean we swooned it was so good. I don’t think we had dessert because it was getting late.

We stopped into a couple of shops for tastings and B bought two bottles, one for the apartment to go with the pecorino and one for marito. I bought one to take home and a bottle of grappa made from Brunello for Giacomo.

After lunch we have a big decision to make –

continue on to San’ Antimo or back to Montepulciano…

tough choice but no regrets

It is getting late in the afternoon and I decide it is best to pass on Sant’Antimo and save it for another trip. We need to have something to come back for, right? So with the decision made to return to Montepulciano and me behind the wheel so B can enjoy the landscape as a passenger, we head east. The rest of the itinerary I will save for another trip as well.

We arrive in Montepulciano fairly quickly with only a few stops for photo ops along the way. This is a completely different approach to the town than when I had been here on Sunday so I was winging it on where to park. I followed some signs along the wall and took a chance it was “close” to where we wanted to be. We absolutely could not believe it took us into a parking garage that looked like it was built into the city walls. Of course, the only way to go was up and there were many steps, again. I did not count them because I was concentrating on breathing.

We spent some time wandering around and enjoying the neighborhood we found ourselves in until I recognized where we were. We were close to the Bottega del Rame so I had to show it to B. She purchased a few gifts and then we went on to the Ramaio so she could meet the Maestro and I was touched that he remembered me from Sunday. He showed everything to B, posed for photos with us and was just as sweet as could be. B left enchanted and now we both have a heartwarming memory to share.

We meander to the Piazza Grande and are surprised to run into the couple we had met in the parking lot at Montalcino. What are the odds of that?

A quick stop into the Corsini Café for caffe and a pastry and we really do have to get back on the road and back to Moiano before dark. Neither one of us wants to miss dinner and spend the night in the car if we can’t find our home at Artist in Italy in the dark.

This has been a wonderful day and everything I imagined it would be. The Val d’Orcia is beautiful and I feel so lucky to have had the opportunity to visit it and see it for myself. It truly is a treasure.

Coming up tomorrow – La Vita e’ Bella

DH and I felt the same way about Montalcino! Thought the wine was pricey if I remember correctly. They charged you to go to the top of the rocca.

For anyone who wants to see the " capella in the field" shot that bfac is talking about near Pienza I have a collage of it in all 4 seasons of the year--just give me your email and I will send it.

TDudette, the wine is pricey but so worth it! Actually, I paid 33 euro for a bottle of Brunello and the Brunello grappa, which isn't too bad compared to what the price would be in the States. Thanks for still reading.

brfac, this is so true. Same with Prosecco!

Sorry I am just getting back to this trip report; is anyone still interested in reading about the rest of the trip? Life and work got in the way for a few months and I have been away from Fodors. But things are better now and there is plenty more to tell.

Yes! Love your report and would appreciate hearing about the remainder of the trip.

Please do finish it!

Yes, I would love to read more.

Absolutely, do finish it! I'm on the trip with you. I don't remember having parking problems when we went to Montalcino, I just remember driving up a hill and parking along a stone wall with an incredible view, and then just walking in through the town walls. is my memory wrong?

Hagan, parking wasn't really a problem. But if we had followed Stu's directions exactly we would have parked at the fort and avoided all those steps. Next time I will do that, but you can imagine how reluctant we were to have another experience like we had trying to find the hotel in Orvieto.

Arezzo is La Vita e’Bella

I apologize for dropping this trip report for so long; things happened… life and making a living really got in the way. I wasn’t even reading the forums until last week. I missed it, but now I am back and hope to make up for lost time. I can’t believe it is 6 months ago today that I am sitting down to write about now. Being away from the forum for so long has helped me not think about Italy but now that I’m back the yearning to return is as strong as ever. So, on with the story…

Wednesday, October 21 – this morning is rainy and windy. The three of us get up and it is so cold we pull the comforters off our beds and huddle on the couch together to get warm until the radiators come on and start warming the apartment. It’s not so bad, really, because our couch faces French doors that look out beyond the white road and cypress trees to Chiusi on the hilltop in the distance. A picture perfect view.

Today’s plan: Julian is taking us to Arezzo. P decides not to go today for a couple of reasons: 1. She and I have a big day planned for tomorrow and she wants to save herself for it. (I’m not saying now, you will have to wait and read the installment for tomorrow.) 2. Since it is so damp, her arthritis is bothering her. 3. She and Jo are going to play in the studio all by themselves and have a good time.

After breakfast we load into the Land Rover with Julian as our trusty guide and off we go to Arezzo. It is quite nice to have someone else at the wheel and to sit back and relax. I think it took about an hour to get there.

When we arrived, of course, first things first, we went to a bar for caffe and pastries while Julian secured our tickets for the Chiesa of San Francesco and entrance to the choir to view the Piero frescoes.

Back to the bar for a moment – in the front corner by the windows were 4 white haired gentlemen that looked like they were fixtures in the place. They were chatting and probably saying the same things they said every morning to each other, but it made me stop and think how different our lives are. They take the time for each other (and themselves) every day, and how often do we do that for ourselves? They really do live la vita e bella.

Which leads me to another sidebar. One of my all time favorite movies is La Vita e Bella, so how could I not know that the beginning was filmed here? Imagine my surprise when I saw the posters plastered all over town.

Back to Piero now and the reason we are here. The façade of the church is so plain but it makes sense once you see what is inside, anything ornate would somehow be an injustice to what is inside. Julian has brought us here to see the famous fresco cycle by Piero della Francesca, The Legend of the True Cross. This is truly magnificent and I am awed by the story the frescoes tell. And Julian’s telling of the story is magical; I wish I had recorded it. This is a link that will show a nice view of the chapel and tell the story of the frescoes http://www.wga.hu/tours/arezzo/index.html.

We spent quite a lot of time here and then when they politely let us know our time was up we went off on our own to explore around town a bit and Julian went ahead of us to the restaurant to secure a table for us for lunch.

We did some window shopping but I was looking for the small shop of Farmacia di Santa Maria Novella. We found it but it was closed for now so we made our way back to the restaurant to meet the others. Today’s lunch was at Antica Osteria l’Agania www.agania.com. It was pretty good. Most of us had wine, beer, pasta, pizza, and of course dessert. Yummy panna cotta and B had crostata that was the special dessert of the day. Our server was a delight and did not speak a bit of English.

Next on the agenda was the Duomo but we had some time before it opened again so we made our way along a narrow little alley that opened up onto the Piazza Grande. Wow. That is a very cool piazza the way it slopes. I would not want to be standing on the low end when it rains. The brick paving had been re-laid in a herringbone pattern and I couldn’t help but think that Giacomo could have done that and would have kept us in Italy for a verrrrry looonnngggg time.

Santa Maria della Pieve is on the piazza and the columns are very unusual. One has a bump out in it like someone’s backside sitting down and the top bit on each one is different. Some of them have scary faces, goat faces, ornate curlicues.

Around the corner at the other end of the piazza (still on the low side) was the storefront from the movie that was the bookshop. I had to have a picture of that.

Back to the piazza and walk through the Vasari loggia. I love architecture and this was right up my alley. How I would love to have a table here to enjoy a summer evening watching the crowd in the piazza. Or attend one of the famous antique markets. The Duomo still wasn’t open so we went to the Basilica di San Domenico of which the interior was completely covered in scaffolding and drop cloths but the Cimabue crucifix was on view in all its glory.

Finally the Duomo opened so we could see another fresco by Piero, this one of Mary Magdalene. It was so simple, yet so modern for its time. The exterior stone was a yellowish, sand color; quite different from other churches.

As we made our way back around and along the other side of Santa Maria della Pieve the exterior wall on this side was covered in columns of varying sizes, styles, diameters, designs, etc. B and I figured it must have been like a sample showroom and the stonecutters brought their clients to view the columns and pick out what kind they wanted for their palazzo.

At this point we all went in different directions and planned to meet back at the same bar in a little while. B and I went back to Farmacia SMN and had a little shopping spree and then found a bancomat to replenish. Good thing we did too because when we got to the bar we decided to each have a coke and they were 4 euro a piece.

More later to wrap up the evening.

No, we aren’t having rabbit for dinner

Hi everyone, I’m back to the report again. I am sorry for having dropped it for so long, but again, work and life kept me from Fodor’s and finishing and I hate not to finish something. Suja encouraged me to continue so here goes…

No, we aren’t having rabbit for dinner<b/>

I’m not sure if I should even tell this story because it might offend some people and I assure you that myself and friends are animal lovers. We have eight cats and five dogs between us but we also have warped senses of humor.

We are all sitting outside by the heater enjoying our drinks and people watching. Julian said he would find us (trusting,aren’t we?). I’m sure he needed a break from us and went off to find some men to talk to. He was the only man in the house this week with all of our group being women and of course his wife and daughters.

But, he did come back for us and we set off for home. Lively conversation on the way and lots of joking sets the stage for what ensues. His telefonino rings and we all quiet down to be polite but, of course, we can’t help but hear his side of the conversation with his daughter. Sadly, she is calling her Daddy because when she returned from school this afternoon she found her pet rabbit had died and called to tell him. He must return in time for the funeral and burial. Oh dear, that is so hard on a child.

He rings off and then begins to recite all he has to do before dinner, including going to the Coop to shop for his wife for supplies she needs. He will drop us off and then head back into town, do the shopping, back home, bury the rabbit, help Amanda with dinner and then serve it.

Wait a minute! We want to go to the Coop with you. It will save you time and we can do our important Illy and chocolate shopping. Also, we need more water for the car. I just love grocery shopping in Italy; everything is so fresh and even the take away foods look so yummy. B buys a small container of laundry detergent so when she washes her sheets at home they will smell like Italy. How cool is that? Sweet dreams for sure. Missions accomplished and we are back in the car and the lively, joking mood has returned. By the way, did you buy anything for our dinner or are we having rabbit stew? <No/> we are not having rabbit stew.

By the way, dinner that night was a mouthwatering lasagna that I can still taste to this day. It didn’t look anything at all like rabbit.

Next up: “Don’t cry Nonna, it will be okay.”<b/>