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Best neighborhood in Rome

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Thanks for all your help on my other question. Rome it is! I'm using AirBnb to find an apartment to rent Rome. My hiccup: neighborhood. I've heard good things about Trastevere but I've heard that it's become over run too. Suggestions? We don't mind a walk or a tram/train ride. We also don't need peace and quiet to sleep. We are young but are not into clubs or bars. We want to go to the major sites naturally, and hope to see some flea markets as well.
Thanks-Andy

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