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Best neighborhood in PARIS to stay in?

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Hello all fans of Paris,
Is the MARAIS district the best area to stay in when we visit Paris this fall?
I heard it resembles the West Village of NYC, maybe with a dash of SoHo -- with cafes, galleries, cobblestore streets, boutiques...
Or has it become very loud and touristy?
I love cafes, discovering new, small clothing boutiques and galleries, but not necessarily tons of people around all the time.
Any other suggestions for nice Parisian neighborhoods are greatly appreciated!
Also love discovering new music clubs.

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