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Berlin: best area to stay?

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I already started a post on Berlin accommodation, but I now think I may have been getting ahead of myself. There are just so many choices that I think I'd be better to choose my area first, and then look at hotels.

So, that said, what do people think? We are a mature fairly-well-travelled couple interested in history, art, walking around, and experiencing the local cultures. We like areas that have "character" - interesting shops, cafes, bars, etc, but not late-night party scenes, and handy to the city and/or public transport. To give an idea of our tastes, we've been told about a couple of guided walks that could interest us: a history walk, and a graffiti walk.

Any suggestions please? Thanks

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