Bellissimo Rome, Amalfi Coast, Florence and Caserta: Our wonderful trip
Jun 12th, 2016, 02:25 PM
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Bellissimo Rome, Amalfi Coast, Florence and Caserta: Our wonderful trip
We spent a fabulous 11 days exploring Italy. We started in my favorite city of them all:
ROME
The Tourist Stuff
We walked past the typical tourist haunts: Trevi Fountain (which was packed with people every single time we walked through (which was often since our apartment was near here – fabulous location), Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, Popolo Square, and the Pantheon. We already toured the Forum and Colosseum on a prior visit, but did walk around this area.
I just love walking around Rome, and we walked a LOT.
The Palaces
Rome has so many of these, and they are wonderful.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj – wow, what a great art collection. Three Caravaggios, Bernini, Velazquez, etc. And what an amazing palace – the hall of mirrors was spectacular, as were many of the rooms. The chapel had mummified remains of the family’s saint.
Palazzo Colonna – I have wanted to see this palace for a while, as it looked so ornate and amazing, and it was. Its Sala Grand is indeed very grand, with its ceiling fresco and many windows. There is also an art collection here, but not as impressive as the one at the Doria Pamphilj.
Palazzo Barberini – A visiting conference blocked off entrance to the room with Coronto’s amazing ceiling fresco, “Allegory of Divine Providence”. Thankfully, I had already seen that on a prior trip. I took in the art collection – there are some Caravaggios and Raphael’s “La Fornarina” here.
The Museums
National Museum of Rome – we wandered around here a bit, admiring the mosaics and frescoes from the walls of ancient Roman villas. The most amazing fresco covered 4 walls of a large room: the garden fresco from Livia’s villa. There are also seemingly 1000s of statues here at this museum, too.
Palazzo Altemps - This museum admission was included with the National Museum of Rome. There was a great garden ceiling fresco here, and lots more statues. The interior courtyard was very attractive.
Ancient Rome
The Domus Aurea – Nero’s Palace. We booked a tour here, which was fascinating. This palace must have been incredibly spectacular in its heyday – and it’s huge! Sadly, many of the ancient frescoes and wall paintings have faded over the years, but what has been restored looks amazing. This palace was buried (!) and rediscovered.
Here’s the Wikipedia entry on that part of its history:
<<When a young Roman inadvertently fell through a cleft in the Esquiline hillside at the end of the 15th century, he found himself in a strange cave or grotta filled with painted figures. Soon the young artists of Rome were having themselves let down on boards knotted to ropes to see for themselves. The fourth style frescoes that were uncovered then have faded to pale gray stains on the plaster now, but the effect of these freshly rediscovered grottesche[16] decorations was electrifying in the early Renaissance, which was just arriving in Rome. When Pinturicchio, Raphael and Michelangelo crawled underground and were let down shafts to study them, carving their names on the walls to let the world know they had been there, the paintings were a revelation of the true world of antiquity.
It is amazing to think of Raphael lowering himself down to explore! I have wanted to see the Domus Aurea since seeing Raphael’s Loggia in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg.
The Churches
I visited so many I don’t even know all their names. I read somewhere that whenever you pass a church in Europe, you should look inside. That advice is very good for Italy! We walked into a *lot* of churches. There's the ones I remember the names of:
St. Agostino - here I wanted to see Caravaggio’s Madonna di Loreto. So amazing to see Caravaggio’s work in its original location. Just like in:
San Luigi dei Francesi – my favorite Caravaggio, “The Calling of St. Matthew” is here.
Santa Maria del Popolo – Bernini, Caravaggio: Wow. We walked around the Popolo Square in the evening, and up around the adjacent Pincio park.
Santa Maria della Vittoria – Bernini’s amazing Ecstasy of St. Teresa is here – what theatre, and how he depicted clothing, skin and clouds in marble. Looking up, there are more clouds and flying putti.
Sant Ignazio – Andrea Pozzo’s soaring ceiling fresco is incredible – and his painted dome! There is spot on the floor to stand to best see the illusion.
Other Stuff:
The Caravaggio Experience – We passed a building, and I’m not sure what it was, that had a banner advertising this. It was billed as a video installation with a ‘movie” of Caravaggio’s works. His paintings were projected on a large scale on the walls throughout several rooms. It was described as a “sensoral journey” with fragrances. It was pretty interesting, but I only noticed one fragrance at one point and it smelled like the Abercrombie and Fitch store (which isn’t a great thing).
Giolitti gelato – as good as they said it was!
I had an older guidebook and we did look for Canova’s studio. Apparently, you used to be able to go inside – it wasn’t open when I tried the door. I also went looking for Palazzo Lancellotti and we never found it. A waiter pointed me to a building, I tried the door, it was locked. A man came to the door, and told me it was “private”. From what I could glimpse inside, the space looked impressive – all I was able to see was niches with statues in them, but the room looked sizable. There must be so many incredible places like that in Rome. Sigh.
ROME
The Tourist Stuff
We walked past the typical tourist haunts: Trevi Fountain (which was packed with people every single time we walked through (which was often since our apartment was near here – fabulous location), Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, Popolo Square, and the Pantheon. We already toured the Forum and Colosseum on a prior visit, but did walk around this area.
I just love walking around Rome, and we walked a LOT.
The Palaces
Rome has so many of these, and they are wonderful.
Palazzo Doria Pamphilj – wow, what a great art collection. Three Caravaggios, Bernini, Velazquez, etc. And what an amazing palace – the hall of mirrors was spectacular, as were many of the rooms. The chapel had mummified remains of the family’s saint.
Palazzo Colonna – I have wanted to see this palace for a while, as it looked so ornate and amazing, and it was. Its Sala Grand is indeed very grand, with its ceiling fresco and many windows. There is also an art collection here, but not as impressive as the one at the Doria Pamphilj.
Palazzo Barberini – A visiting conference blocked off entrance to the room with Coronto’s amazing ceiling fresco, “Allegory of Divine Providence”. Thankfully, I had already seen that on a prior trip. I took in the art collection – there are some Caravaggios and Raphael’s “La Fornarina” here.
The Museums
National Museum of Rome – we wandered around here a bit, admiring the mosaics and frescoes from the walls of ancient Roman villas. The most amazing fresco covered 4 walls of a large room: the garden fresco from Livia’s villa. There are also seemingly 1000s of statues here at this museum, too.
Palazzo Altemps - This museum admission was included with the National Museum of Rome. There was a great garden ceiling fresco here, and lots more statues. The interior courtyard was very attractive.
Ancient Rome
The Domus Aurea – Nero’s Palace. We booked a tour here, which was fascinating. This palace must have been incredibly spectacular in its heyday – and it’s huge! Sadly, many of the ancient frescoes and wall paintings have faded over the years, but what has been restored looks amazing. This palace was buried (!) and rediscovered.
Here’s the Wikipedia entry on that part of its history:
<<When a young Roman inadvertently fell through a cleft in the Esquiline hillside at the end of the 15th century, he found himself in a strange cave or grotta filled with painted figures. Soon the young artists of Rome were having themselves let down on boards knotted to ropes to see for themselves. The fourth style frescoes that were uncovered then have faded to pale gray stains on the plaster now, but the effect of these freshly rediscovered grottesche[16] decorations was electrifying in the early Renaissance, which was just arriving in Rome. When Pinturicchio, Raphael and Michelangelo crawled underground and were let down shafts to study them, carving their names on the walls to let the world know they had been there, the paintings were a revelation of the true world of antiquity.
It is amazing to think of Raphael lowering himself down to explore! I have wanted to see the Domus Aurea since seeing Raphael’s Loggia in the Hermitage in St. Petersburg.
The Churches
I visited so many I don’t even know all their names. I read somewhere that whenever you pass a church in Europe, you should look inside. That advice is very good for Italy! We walked into a *lot* of churches. There's the ones I remember the names of:
St. Agostino - here I wanted to see Caravaggio’s Madonna di Loreto. So amazing to see Caravaggio’s work in its original location. Just like in:
San Luigi dei Francesi – my favorite Caravaggio, “The Calling of St. Matthew” is here.
Santa Maria del Popolo – Bernini, Caravaggio: Wow. We walked around the Popolo Square in the evening, and up around the adjacent Pincio park.
Santa Maria della Vittoria – Bernini’s amazing Ecstasy of St. Teresa is here – what theatre, and how he depicted clothing, skin and clouds in marble. Looking up, there are more clouds and flying putti.
Sant Ignazio – Andrea Pozzo’s soaring ceiling fresco is incredible – and his painted dome! There is spot on the floor to stand to best see the illusion.
Other Stuff:
The Caravaggio Experience – We passed a building, and I’m not sure what it was, that had a banner advertising this. It was billed as a video installation with a ‘movie” of Caravaggio’s works. His paintings were projected on a large scale on the walls throughout several rooms. It was described as a “sensoral journey” with fragrances. It was pretty interesting, but I only noticed one fragrance at one point and it smelled like the Abercrombie and Fitch store (which isn’t a great thing).
Giolitti gelato – as good as they said it was!
I had an older guidebook and we did look for Canova’s studio. Apparently, you used to be able to go inside – it wasn’t open when I tried the door. I also went looking for Palazzo Lancellotti and we never found it. A waiter pointed me to a building, I tried the door, it was locked. A man came to the door, and told me it was “private”. From what I could glimpse inside, the space looked impressive – all I was able to see was niches with statues in them, but the room looked sizable. There must be so many incredible places like that in Rome. Sigh.
Jun 12th, 2016, 03:39 PM
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We visited the Carvaggio Experience as well (at Palazzo delle Esposizioni). We we underwhelmed, but there was also photography exhibit of Gianna Berengo Gardin's work that we thought was wonderful. It's there until the end of August.
Jun 13th, 2016, 05:02 AM
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WWanderer and elberko - I think you will really like Rome! There is so much to see there. I like how my dentist worded it, he said "Rome is very deep".
On to:
FLORENCE
We did a day trip to here via train from Termini.
Climbing the Duomo – this was a great experience, all 460 steps! About half way up, you can step out to view the amazing Last Judgment ceiling fresco in the dome, then it’s back to stair climbing to get to the top. What an amazing view! Gorgeous.
Piazza della Signoria – we sat here a little bit and got some gelato. The copy of Michelangelo’s incomparable David is here, along with many other statues. From here is the entrance to the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio, which is a pretty spectacular space.
Ponte Vecchio – we wandered around the bridge, on the way to the Pitti Palace.
Pitti Palace – I toured the royal apartments and art collection here while my son and husband rested outside. (Florence pretty much exhausted us, but we saw a lot in a little time).
Baptistery – we walked in here to see the dome mosaics and of course viewed the doors.
Museo Opera del Duomo – I wanted to visit here to see Ghiberti’s original Gates of Paradise, which are incredible. There are statues by Michelangelo and Donatello here, and other interesting exhibits and art from the Duomo.
Shopping – I like the shopping in Florence and we wandered around the shops while.
NOTE: I would highly recommend making a reservation for the Duomo climb, which also allows timed admittance to the other areas of the Cathedral complex (museum, etc):
http://en.grandemuseodelduomo.waf.it...hp?idtour=8484
We arrived at 10:50 with a 11:30 reservation to climb the Duomo and waited in the expedited line for about 10 minutes. (This was the same line for Florence Pass holders). The regular line was very long by this point. I was confused making the reservation and I emailed several times to see if I could change the times (I couldn’t) and to see how strict they would if we arrived earlier than our scheduled time. I was told (after several unresponsive emails) that I could arrive 5 minutes earlier, but that was not the case. We entered each monument early with no problem.
On to:
FLORENCE
We did a day trip to here via train from Termini.
Climbing the Duomo – this was a great experience, all 460 steps! About half way up, you can step out to view the amazing Last Judgment ceiling fresco in the dome, then it’s back to stair climbing to get to the top. What an amazing view! Gorgeous.
Piazza della Signoria – we sat here a little bit and got some gelato. The copy of Michelangelo’s incomparable David is here, along with many other statues. From here is the entrance to the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio, which is a pretty spectacular space.
Ponte Vecchio – we wandered around the bridge, on the way to the Pitti Palace.
Pitti Palace – I toured the royal apartments and art collection here while my son and husband rested outside. (Florence pretty much exhausted us, but we saw a lot in a little time).
Baptistery – we walked in here to see the dome mosaics and of course viewed the doors.
Museo Opera del Duomo – I wanted to visit here to see Ghiberti’s original Gates of Paradise, which are incredible. There are statues by Michelangelo and Donatello here, and other interesting exhibits and art from the Duomo.
Shopping – I like the shopping in Florence and we wandered around the shops while.
NOTE: I would highly recommend making a reservation for the Duomo climb, which also allows timed admittance to the other areas of the Cathedral complex (museum, etc):
http://en.grandemuseodelduomo.waf.it...hp?idtour=8484
We arrived at 10:50 with a 11:30 reservation to climb the Duomo and waited in the expedited line for about 10 minutes. (This was the same line for Florence Pass holders). The regular line was very long by this point. I was confused making the reservation and I emailed several times to see if I could change the times (I couldn’t) and to see how strict they would if we arrived earlier than our scheduled time. I was told (after several unresponsive emails) that I could arrive 5 minutes earlier, but that was not the case. We entered each monument early with no problem.
Jun 13th, 2016, 12:28 PM
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I have a picture of my son zonked out leaning against a statue in the Piazza della Signoria. And my husband took one of me, sitting on the ground up against the Pitti Palace and it looks like I'm asleep (I had my eyes closed). I didn't post that one to Facebook. 
It helped that we had timed entrances to the monuments of the Cathedral (Duomo climb, Museum and Baptistery, although there were no lines for the latter two in the later afternoon) and for the Pitti Palace.
Also, we only saw the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio and didn't go any further inside. My husband and son got to rest while I was exploring the Pitti Palace. And I had already been there, so I didn't peruse everything as intently as I would have on a first time visit.
But it was a full day - we arrived in Florence at 10:15am and our return train was at 7:30pm.
It helped that we had timed entrances to the monuments of the Cathedral (Duomo climb, Museum and Baptistery, although there were no lines for the latter two in the later afternoon) and for the Pitti Palace.
Also, we only saw the courtyard of the Palazzo Vecchio and didn't go any further inside. My husband and son got to rest while I was exploring the Pitti Palace. And I had already been there, so I didn't peruse everything as intently as I would have on a first time visit.
But it was a full day - we arrived in Florence at 10:15am and our return train was at 7:30pm.
Jun 13th, 2016, 02:16 PM
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OK, next we go to:
THE ROYAL PALACE AT CASERTA
We took the train to Caserta from Termini, which was easy. Our hotel was close to the train and right next to the palace.
The palace is very grand, including its main staircase, the rooms and ceiling frescoes. There is an extensive garden here, with many beautiful fountains. The one I most wanted to see, the Diana Fountain, is 2 miles from the palace, and we rented bikes to get there. That worked out great.
The Diana fountain is pretty amazing – it is a waterfall and an either side are two statue groups – on the right is Diana with her maidens. On the left is Actaeon, right after he was turned into a stag by Diana. His hunting hounds are just about to attack him. Grand baroque theatre.
The town of Caserta is small – we wandered around on a Sunday night to find that the main street was pretty lively (or at least not quiet). We could not find anywhere to eat – and I don’t mean that we couldn’t’ find any open restaurants – we couldn’t find any restaurants. One place had lots of people sitting outside; that turned out to be a café. We finally found a pizza place. They didn’t speak English but were warm to us and this was a good choice. After dinner, we wandered around in the area in front of the castle –there are paths and greenery and many locals were using the area like a park to relax and socialize.
I have since learned that Caserta is a major hub for mob activity – I read that there was a major bust of mob leaders a few days before our arrival in Caserta (Rome and Naples, too).
After touring the palace, we were going to take the train to Naples and transfer to the train to Sorrento, but upon finding out that a taxi would only be 70Euro more, we opted for the much quicker, easier way. We had an Italian woman driver who arrived in a skirt and heels. She didn’t speak English and we didn’t speak Italian, but were able to communicate enough to exchange names. My husband sat in the front seat, and he wouldn’t do that again for the rest of our private transports.
We didn’t rent a car b/c we readily remember how stressful driving was in Northern Italy (and we heard it doesn’t get any better going south). They drive fast and our driver kept tailgating – I think she drove for 30 minutes tailgating a Porsche in front of us (and not going slow). I just didn’t watch – my husband kept making hand gestures and she made dismissive ones back to him, lol.
THE ROYAL PALACE AT CASERTA
We took the train to Caserta from Termini, which was easy. Our hotel was close to the train and right next to the palace.
The palace is very grand, including its main staircase, the rooms and ceiling frescoes. There is an extensive garden here, with many beautiful fountains. The one I most wanted to see, the Diana Fountain, is 2 miles from the palace, and we rented bikes to get there. That worked out great.
The Diana fountain is pretty amazing – it is a waterfall and an either side are two statue groups – on the right is Diana with her maidens. On the left is Actaeon, right after he was turned into a stag by Diana. His hunting hounds are just about to attack him. Grand baroque theatre.
The town of Caserta is small – we wandered around on a Sunday night to find that the main street was pretty lively (or at least not quiet). We could not find anywhere to eat – and I don’t mean that we couldn’t’ find any open restaurants – we couldn’t find any restaurants. One place had lots of people sitting outside; that turned out to be a café. We finally found a pizza place. They didn’t speak English but were warm to us and this was a good choice. After dinner, we wandered around in the area in front of the castle –there are paths and greenery and many locals were using the area like a park to relax and socialize.
I have since learned that Caserta is a major hub for mob activity – I read that there was a major bust of mob leaders a few days before our arrival in Caserta (Rome and Naples, too).
After touring the palace, we were going to take the train to Naples and transfer to the train to Sorrento, but upon finding out that a taxi would only be 70Euro more, we opted for the much quicker, easier way. We had an Italian woman driver who arrived in a skirt and heels. She didn’t speak English and we didn’t speak Italian, but were able to communicate enough to exchange names. My husband sat in the front seat, and he wouldn’t do that again for the rest of our private transports.
We didn’t rent a car b/c we readily remember how stressful driving was in Northern Italy (and we heard it doesn’t get any better going south). They drive fast and our driver kept tailgating – I think she drove for 30 minutes tailgating a Porsche in front of us (and not going slow). I just didn’t watch – my husband kept making hand gestures and she made dismissive ones back to him, lol.
Jun 13th, 2016, 03:20 PM
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I've been grappling with how many days we would need for Florence vs. Amalfi for our trip next year so your report is very helpful. Although I have to factor more waiting times since we are going in the summer vs. when you went with less crowds.
You did manage to pack in quite a lot in that one day in Florence--even if you were exhausted at the end!
You did manage to pack in quite a lot in that one day in Florence--even if you were exhausted at the end!
Jun 15th, 2016, 08:43 AM
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europeannovice - one day in Florence was enough for my husband and son. I had already been there before, or else it would not have been enough for me. (I would recommend seeing the "real" David, although I do recall the guy on my tour last time saying that the real one looked just the copy in the Piazza).
AMALFI COAST
Wow. This is the most beautiful scenic coastal drive I have ever done. We saw the coast several ways: one day we hired a driver and had stops in Ravello, Positano and Amalfi. Then, the next day, we did a boat tour that also dropped us off in Amalfi and Positano. It was great to see this scenery from both the road and the sea.
We stayed in Sorrento, in an apartment recommended by MikePinTuscon. We also did a day trip to Capri.
Sorrento
We liked wandering around here – the shops, peering into the trompe l’oeil frescoes at Sedil Dominova, sampling limoncello, exploring the shops and walking around the narrow streets. The food in this neck of the woods is EXCELLENT.
Ravello
This was my favorite of the towns we visited. The gardens at Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone were both extensive and glorious – a riot of color and beauty. Villa Rufolo had wonderful views of the coastline, and a cloister-like building. Villa Cimbrone also had nice views of the coast, including the great views from the Terrace of Infinity. As you walk through the gardens, there are temples and statues and lots of color.
Amalfi
Both times, we used this stop to eat. We had pizza at Maria’s and it was terrific. We had a little time to wander around and to admire the views from the beach.
Positano
We wandered around, ate gelato and enjoyed the views from sea level, here, too. On our second visit, we were high up in the town and my son and I had to use a bathroom. We wandered into the first hotel we saw. I noticed an amazing terrace setting overlooking the sea and the mountains. Then another great terrace type space. As we wandered into the hotel itself, I noticed the common areas were decorated with antiques and beautiful things. The bathrooms were just as impressive – with cloth towels. This was a remarkable place! I looked up the name of the hotel: Le Sirenuse. Rates appear to range from upwards from 1,100 – 2,000 Euro. (That’s probably about the most I’ll ever see of that hotel! Haha).
AMALFI COAST
Wow. This is the most beautiful scenic coastal drive I have ever done. We saw the coast several ways: one day we hired a driver and had stops in Ravello, Positano and Amalfi. Then, the next day, we did a boat tour that also dropped us off in Amalfi and Positano. It was great to see this scenery from both the road and the sea.
We stayed in Sorrento, in an apartment recommended by MikePinTuscon. We also did a day trip to Capri.
Sorrento
We liked wandering around here – the shops, peering into the trompe l’oeil frescoes at Sedil Dominova, sampling limoncello, exploring the shops and walking around the narrow streets. The food in this neck of the woods is EXCELLENT.
Ravello
This was my favorite of the towns we visited. The gardens at Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone were both extensive and glorious – a riot of color and beauty. Villa Rufolo had wonderful views of the coastline, and a cloister-like building. Villa Cimbrone also had nice views of the coast, including the great views from the Terrace of Infinity. As you walk through the gardens, there are temples and statues and lots of color.
Amalfi
Both times, we used this stop to eat. We had pizza at Maria’s and it was terrific. We had a little time to wander around and to admire the views from the beach.
Positano
We wandered around, ate gelato and enjoyed the views from sea level, here, too. On our second visit, we were high up in the town and my son and I had to use a bathroom. We wandered into the first hotel we saw. I noticed an amazing terrace setting overlooking the sea and the mountains. Then another great terrace type space. As we wandered into the hotel itself, I noticed the common areas were decorated with antiques and beautiful things. The bathrooms were just as impressive – with cloth towels. This was a remarkable place! I looked up the name of the hotel: Le Sirenuse. Rates appear to range from upwards from 1,100 – 2,000 Euro. (That’s probably about the most I’ll ever see of that hotel! Haha).
Jun 15th, 2016, 10:56 AM
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Lovely, europeannovice. DH and I had been to Italy several times before we read about Caserta. A review a few years ago said it was shabby so I was happy to read your 'take' on it.
If one is interested in art, I think at least 4 days for a first time Florence visit. Pitti, Uffizi, Bargello, Duomo, Accademia--not to mention the unnamed other churches.
You guys really did see a lot in one day though. And yes, getting a time is most helpful. Our Florence hotel clerk made a reservation for us.
Thanks for the mind picture of your DH reacting to the driver.
The closest I'll get to Le Sirenuse is reading your TR! LOL
If one is interested in art, I think at least 4 days for a first time Florence visit. Pitti, Uffizi, Bargello, Duomo, Accademia--not to mention the unnamed other churches.
You guys really did see a lot in one day though. And yes, getting a time is most helpful. Our Florence hotel clerk made a reservation for us.
Thanks for the mind picture of your DH reacting to the driver.
The closest I'll get to Le Sirenuse is reading your TR! LOL
Jun 15th, 2016, 05:06 PM
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I still dream of Le Sirenuse...we stayed there least year for a milestone birthday and anniversary. Our terrace had an amazing view! I had wanted to stay there for years and it lived up to expectation. Well done for wandering in there in search of restrooms!!
Jun 15th, 2016, 06:25 PM
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TDudette--I think you meant to respond to Phillyfan who went to Caserta. I had just read about it being a bit rundown needing some refurbishment and mentioned that on another post.
Phillyfan--This trip report is very helpful for our planning. Great way to visit Le Sirenuse too!
What were some of the restaurants you ate at that had great food?
How was your day in Capri?
Phillyfan--This trip report is very helpful for our planning. Great way to visit Le Sirenuse too!
What were some of the restaurants you ate at that had great food?
How was your day in Capri?
