deonca

Hello!
In this trip report, I’ll be describing my recent holiday in Northern Spain and Southern France. Here’s the breakdown of my travel: one day each in Bilbao, San Sebastian, Lourdes and Carcassonne, 3 days based in Avignon (day trips to Nimes, Pont du Gard, Arles, Les Baux de Provence and St. Remy de Provence), and finally 4 days in Nice (day trips to Antibes, Cannes and Monaco). I did not rent a car.
This was quite a busy schedule considering the short duration of the trip, which ran from January 11 to 22 of this year. Fodors Forums and a pile of library guidebooks were invaluable in my preparation. Although I was researching heavily in September and October of last year, family commitments meant that I couldn’t really book anything until mid-December. By that time though, I had a good idea of where I wanted to go and how to link it up. Now it’s time to give back to the Fodors community in the form of what will hopefully be a useful trip report. I took fairly detailed notes during my trip, intending to write this when I returned. Hope you enjoy it!
Now, on with the report…

Background: I am a 41 year old male, from southwestern Ontario, Canada. My job leaves me only 2 possible months to travel…January or February. In the past 4 years, I’ve taken 3 solo winter trips to Europe. My first ever solo trip took me to Spain in 2010. Then in 2011, Portugal and Barcelona. I posted trip reports for those. In February 2012 I went to Italy for 8 days. I never got around to reporting on that trip. During the research for those trips, a bunch of other interesting destinations popped up and eventually comprised a pretty lengthy wish-list of places. Now in 2014, I was able to link together many of these in a line stretching from Bilbao to Monaco.
After these 3 previous winter trips, I’ve come to realize a few things: lines are shorter (or non-existent) at museums, churches and TI’s, shorter opening hours (and daylight) require careful budgeting of time, and about a quarter of recommended hotels are simply closed during the winter months. I’m happy to say that all my accommodation choices worked out great, and I would recommend them to anyone.

Before I go further, a quick word about how I packed. Here’s what I brought for my 12 days: small notebook with pen, small backpack, Rick Steves France guidebook (which conveniently includes a section on Basque Spain; I cut the 900+ page book in half and took only the sections I needed), Frommers Provence guidebook (read it in advance but probably only pulled it out 3-4 times while in France), 2 tshirts, 2 pairs of cargo pants, 2 button-up shirts, 1 sweater, a lightweight packable downfill jacket, hat, toque, sunglasses, flannel sleep pants and sleep tshirt, socks and underwear, and 1 pair of shoes – my Nike Rongbuk ACG’s with Gore-Tex lining. Second trip to Europe for these beauties! I packed it all into my Samsonite rolling backpack (cabin-sized). Fourth European trip for this bag, and it’s held up remarkably well. Can’t say enough about the quality of this bag. Electronic gadgets included my unlocked Sony XPeria phone (ready to install a SIM card from any foreign country), Maxell noise-reducing headphones, and Nikon s8100 camera, with 3 memory cards and a backup battery.

Now, let’s go to Bilbao! If we can get out of Toronto first…

<b>Day 1: Bilbao</b>

First full day: Saturday January 11th. Actually, this should have been Day 2. But due to a closure at Toronto airport 3 days before my travel, the ripple effect caused me to depart 4 hours late…which caused me to miss my connection in Brussels by about an hour…which led to a wonderful 9 hour layover at Brussels Airport. Net result was that I landed in Bilbao at 10:30pm instead of 1:30pm. Off to a good start…

On arrival in Bilbao, I whizzed past the baggage carousel (I love the freedom of traveling light!) and briefly stopped at the tourist information counter to pick up a map, and confirm the location of the bus that runs from Bilbao airport into the city. It departs twice an hour, at :15 and :45 (Bizkaibus A3247). It’s located just outside the terminal. As you go outside, turn right and head to the end of the row of buses. The bus driver spoke English and kindly confirmed the stop for my hotel. Cost of ride was 1.40 (all costs are in Euros from here on.), and it took about 10-15 minutes. Couldn’t see much of the Guggenheim Museum in the darkness, but I did catch a quick glimpse. After months of anticipation, I was on the edge of my seat as the bus wound its way into downtown Bilbao and past the incredible titanium-plated structure. I was thrilled to finally get here! The driver indicated that this was the stop nearest my hotel. That’s definitely a tip for other travelers…ask and confirm directions and bus stops. You may think you have done airtight research, but it’s always best to check with the driver just in case. Trust me, your online or guidebook research will not always yield perfect results!

For my only night in Bilbao, I stayed at Hesperia Bilbao, just over the Zubizuri bridge on the Nervion River. Just a 2 minute walk from the tram stop which conveniently runs across town to the bus station. I strongly considered splurging on the Silken Gran Domine hotel across from the Guggenheim, but ultimately made my choice based on really strong reviews and the savings of over 30 euros (plus breakfast – more on that later). Cost was 61.50, booked in advance through the hotel website. (On check-in they offered me a riverview room for 15 euros more, which I declined). My room was very nicely decorated in light wood tones, the bed was very comfortable, and the modern bathroom was gorgeous, with generous toiletries included. This stands out as the best hotel on my trip.

Thankfully I awoke feeling quite refreshed after 1.5 days of travel and layovers and being awake for about 35 hours, minus about an hour of eye-resting on the plane. Not a touch of jetlag. Or maybe it was the adrenaline that got me going, knowing that I only had 1 day to see Bilbao, since tonight’s hotel in San Sebastian was already booked.

The day started with what I can only describe as the best hotel breakfast I’ve ever had. Bacon, eggs, sausages, 4 types of fresh juices, 5 types of milk, 6 cold meats, 4 cheeses, and 6 types of pastries – all in small sizes: mini-croissants, half-donuts, mini pains-au-chocolat. In addition, a little breakfast-tapas spread as well! And wine-poached pears! And 3 types of puddings. I really can’t say enough about it. Beautiful presentation as well. I could tell right away that I was in a region that takes its cuisine seriously! We’re off to a good start for a busy Saturday in Bilbao!

Leaving the hotel around 10 am, I walked across the Zubizuri bridge and followed the waterfront over to the Guggenheim Museum. Having only the 1 day, I decided to focus on this. I was determined not to rush my way through. Having read great things about Bilbao’s Museo de Bellas Artes, I bought the “Artean Pass” on entry to the Guggenheim, for 11 euros, which included admission into both museums. Interestingly, the audioguide is not included if you purchase the Artean Pass. But if you only pay for Guggenheim admission, it is included. So I paid the extra 2 euros for the audioguide (which I recommend – there is also an app which I did not download). There was no lineup on arrival. I checked my backpack before entry (no cost).

I doubt that my words could do justice to the Guggenheim Bilbao. The building is truly the star of the show. It’s certainly unlike anything I’ve ever seen. My camera couldn’t keep up with all the angles, curves, titanium and glass that I saw. Truly an incredibly unique building, worthy of its popularity. I spent about 15 minutes out on the terrace, enjoying the art installations out there and the lively waterfront scene, filled with weekend pedestrians, joggers, cyclists and dog-walkers. The only thing missing was some sun to reflect off the titanium panels.

The art inside didn’t exactly rate as the greatest I’ve ever seen, nor did I expect that it would. But I took it all in, appreciated the creativity and modernity of it all, and thoroughly enjoyed my visit. (A temporary exhibit featuring the works of Antoni Tapies, from Barcelona, was on at the time, but only until January 19. From February 14 to May 18, there is an exhibition of Ernesto Neto works.)

In total I spent 2 hours at the Guggenheim. On my way out, I ducked into the room just to the right of the cashier. It’s an excellent educational space called “Zero Espazioa”, which really does broaden one’s appreciation for what you have seen (or will see…I probably should have visited first, on arrival. I’d probably recommend that to a first-time visitor). Definitely worth a look. Free to enter even if you’re not going inside the Guggenheim.

After collecting my backpack, I headed outside for a visit to Jeff Koons’ flower-covered 12-metre West Highland Terrier nicknamed ‘Puppy’. Apparently the flowers are changed in the spring and fall. This dog was attracting lots of attention…definitely the most popular photo-op I encountered in the city. On this Saturday, during my walk around the outside of the museum and partway up the bridge, I noticed 2 couples getting their wedding photos taken around the museum. Great spot for these pictures!

My morning feast ensured that I was still satisfied at 1pm, so there was no need for lunch. Had there been, I likely would have visited the Guggenheim café, which I’d read great things about in my research. Next time perhaps! Leaving the museum, heading towards the towering Iberdrola building, I stepped into the TI. I told them I only had about 5 hours left in which to see the city and asked for their recommendations. They quickly offered some great ideas, certainly more than I would be able to see in my short time! I continued past the kiosk and made the short walk to the ‘Bellas Artes’ museum.

Fodors Spain guidebook describes the Fine Arts Museum as one of Spain’s top 5 museums - a mini-Prado. Having been to both museums now, I believe it’s a fitting description. I really enjoyed it. I declined the 1 euro audioguide and toured it for about 75 minutes. It was really quiet in there, with most rooms empty, save for the Gallery staff. All the better to immerse myself in the great collection of art dating back as far as the 13th Century. The gallery rooms were beautiful, with colour-coded walls for the different eras, black marble floors, high ceilings and rich, dark hardwood molding which extended about 18” from the floor.

Around 3:30 I left the museum and followed the crowd of thousands of Athletic Bilbao fans walking to their 4pm home game vs. Almeria at the San Mames Stadium, nicknamed “La Catedral”. I’m a big soccer fan, but I didn’t buy a ticket. Instead, I stood on a terrace near the stadium, from which myself and about 50 others could see about 10% of the pitch, including one of the goals. After chatting with a friendly local and catching about 20 minutes of the game, I walked about 5 minutes up to the “Termibus” station to confirm the time and location of the evening PESA bus to San Sebastian. I learned that there were hourly departures, and that they were expecting a busy night, so I was advised to purchase my ticket while I was there. Good call – when I returned for my 7pm departure, it was indeed very busy, and the bus was nearly full. Cost of the ticket was 11.50.

As it was nearing 5pm, I had to start heading back towards the hotel to collect my luggage. Huge groups of people were walking the streets. I didn’t find out until the day after, but that evening in Bilbao, between 110,000 and 130,000 people gathered in the largest demonstration in the history of the city! I’m quite fortunate that this didn’t affect me at all.

The main highlight of my walk from the Termibus station to my hotel was the “Alhondiga”, a multi-purpose cultural centre, opened in 2010, which takes up a city block. It is notable for its 43 massive, individually-decorated columns which hold up 3 buildings. Of course, another highlight was feeling the gorgeous sunshine and 14 degree Celsius temperatures! Sadly, my lost first day meant that I’d have no time to visit Casco Viejo, to ride the funicular up Mt. Artxanda, or to sample any pintxos in Bilbao.

At the hotel, I collected my luggage and crossed the river to the tram stop. After a 10 minute wait and a 10 minute ride (1.50 euros), I got off at Termibus in time to catch my 7pm bus to San Sebastian. In fact, I had 30 minutes to spare, so I popped into the bar across the street for a quick beer and bought some snacks at the convenience store. (Fantastic ‘Jamon’ flavoured chips!)

The bus ride was completely in the dark so I can’t comment on any of the scenery. I had debated whether to take the train, which Rick Steves describes as more scenic, but a longer trip…but that’s a moot point after sunset. My seat number was printed on my ticket. As stated, it was packed.

After a 70 minute trip, I arrived in San Sebastian at 8:10. After asking for directions to get my bearings, I started walking to my accommodation, Pension Nuevas Artes. This place was recommended in all the guidebooks I consulted – but under the name Pension Bellas Artes. Note the name change. Apparently it’s under new management now. What hasn’t changed is its fantastic location, about a 1 minute walk to the “Euskotren” station (which was where I needed to catch my early morning train to Hendaye in 2 days).

The pension occupies half a floor of a building. If you choose to stay here, I would suggest you have a cell phone handy. No one was tending the reception area, so I had to phone a temporary number posted on the outside entrance to the building. After about a 20 minute wait, a gentleman who spoke only Spanish came to let me in. He was very jovial, with a broad smile, and apologized for his tardiness – there was an F.C. Barcelona match on TV and he couldn’t let me in until the 1st half came to an end. As a Barcelona fan, how can I argue with that logic! Soccer trumps customer service! Gotta love the priorities (I’m not being sarcastic).

After check-in, I quickly made my way around the corner to the nearest bar (“Txkole”) to watch the 2nd half of the game and enjoy my first taste of San Sebastian pintxos. This wasn’t really a high-end establishment, just a classic, basic place with beer, various small ham and chorizo sandwiches on the bar, “Sidra”, no tourists, and a group of older local men out to catch the game over a glass of “tinto” while the ladies chatted busily in a booth at the back. Just what I had in mind! Cost for 2 small draft beers (“Cana” – with a ~ over the n), 1 Sidra, and 2 sandwiches was 7 euros. I left a 1 euro tip for the barman, not for especially great service, just because this was exactly the Spanish bar experience I was looking for. Low key, neighborhood place with the big game on TV and delicious ham sandwiches at hand.

I wandered about 50 yards down to the corner opposite the Euskotren station and went into my 2nd bar, called “Iruna”. This was more of a happening place. Younger crowd, MTV on the plasma screens, bigger food menu. I had 2 draft beers, 2 croquettes (1 ham and 1 cheese) and 1 puff pastry for 10 euros.

Now it was time to check out the heart of the pintxo scene: the old town. It took about 15 minutes to walk there. Along the way I walked through a bustling Saturday night bar scene near the Cathedral on Reyes Catolicos.

By time I arrived in the old town, my food had digested and I wasn’t really very hungry for more pintxos, so I just wandered the grid of streets and surveyed a few eating places for the next day. I did have a craving for something sweet though, so I dropped in at Café Artess. I’m so glad I found this place (although it’s easy to find – just opposite San Telmo Museum, beside the cinema). It’s a large café that features a great selection of cakes on the counter. I sat at the bar and had a Café Con Leche with the Tarte Chocolate for 3.60. DELICIOUS! Fantastic value too imo.

Final stop was a Guinness (3.50) at the Belfast Irish Pub. I found that it tasted a bit more like coffee than the Guinness we get here in Canada. Final tally for the night: 27 euros for 6 beers, 5 pintxos, 1 piece of cake and a coffee. And 1 happy traveler!

Before wrapping up this first part of the report, a few remarks about Pension Nuevas Artes. I stayed 2 nights, and paid 40 euros per night for a room with a double bed. Bathroom was basic, but clean, with private shower and wc. I never heard a peep outside my room; in fact, I never saw any other people coming or going. I suspect that I may have been the only person staying there. No one was ever sitting at the desk either. This made me a bit nervous for checkout – I left a note on the reception desk telling them I wanted to check out very early, and it sat there for several hours before anyone grabbed it. Overall I’d give the place the thumbs up, for cleanliness, price and proximity to the train station, but after making the 12-15 minute walk a number of times to and from the old town, I would probably seek out something a little closer to the beach or old town next time.

deonca

Oh no! I thought I had also tagged this 'France' but apparently not! Oops.
I'll try to find a solution...

mikelg

Very nice report...as a Bilbao native, a real pity that you missed the beautiful and yet undiscovered Old Town...

steamboatsista

Keep it coming, deonca! Excellent report with lots of wonderful details.

kimhe

Excellent report, what you write and the way you write it make me miss the San Sebastián vibe in local bars etc, what a city!

And wonderful Bilbao, a few months ago I also stood at the same platform outside the not yet finished but fantastic new San Mamés "cathedral" of Athletic Bilbao, seeing the same 10% of the pitch. More or less impossible to get tickets for the match, but my brother and nephew managed to get in through a member's two tickets entrance card for double the price. I was perfectly happy to watch most of the game in a very close by bar with lots of fans and the stadium crowd in my back.

Looking forward to more!

Cathinjoetown

Looking forward tothe rest of the report.

deonca

Thanks everyone for the positive comments!
Mikelg – I’m glad to get the seal of approval from a Bilbao native!
Here’s part 2:

<b>Day 2 – San Sebastian</b>

Up early on this Sunday, excited to explore San Sebastian! Stepping out of the pension, I’m greeted by glorious sunshine and temperatures in the mid teens (back home in Canada, we’d be talking mid teens – Fahrenheit, but not here). Spectacular! First stop was a coffee shop / bakery / ice creamery, around the corner, located in nearby Plaza Easo, which is anchored on the south end by the Euskotren station. I had a café con leche and a croissant, taken right off the bakery tray which had just been removed from the oven. Marvelous!

An easy 10 minute walk took me down to the beach at Plaza de Cervantes, by Hotel de Londres. This part of San Sebastian is a snap to navigate, thanks to its grid-like street pattern. Ditto for ‘Parte Vieja’ which holds a great number of pintxos bars. After having visited several maze-like old-towns in Europe, it was refreshing not to have to worry about a street pattern that doesn’t resemble a plate of spaghetti. You’ll only get lost here if you’ve over-indulged in the fabulous wines on offer around here.

Going straight out from Hotel de Londres, and turning right, I lingered for about a good half hour at the promenade along the broad ‘La Concha’ beach, taking tons of pictures, savoring the amazing view, and just strolling, all the while being careful not to obstruct any high-speed cyclists and joggers as they zipped up and down their allocated lanes. The locals may eat well here, but they also seem to work off the calories with a lot of exercise.

San Sebastian has a very clean, classy waterfront. Intricate handrails and beautifully detailed lampposts, all painted bright white, make for an elegant, appealing place to hang out. But, as a tourist with only 1 day to tackle a not-terribly-ambitious agenda, I needed to move things along, so I passed the ‘Belle Epoque’ Carousel, which dates from 1900. On the underside of the roof are reproductions of classic artworks by the masters – Picasso, Monet, etc. The bright colours of the merry-go-round really popped in the morning sun, allowing for some fantastically vivid photos.

Past the carousel there’s a monument, dedicated in 2007, in honour of the victims of violence and terrorism in San Sebastian. Behind it stands the town hall. Further along the shoreline you can see the aquarium and naval museum. Before venturing down there, I turned right just past the town hall and over to the TI. At the corner, under the arcade of the town hall, a large group of young children were gathering, all dressed in period costume. Many of the boys were dressed like little soldiers (I’m only speculating, but since “San Sebastian Day” takes place January 20th, this may have been some sort of dress rehearsal). The TI was only a few blocks down from the town hall. Inside, I bought the handy 72-page San Sebastian holiday guide for 1 euro.

Prior to my trip, I visited the official San Sebastian tourism website. Under their calendar of January events, they listed a 2-hour “Flavours of San Sebastian” tour, departing at 11:30am, for 17 euros. I was excited that my visit matched the scheduling of this tour, and definitely looked forward to taking it. Part of the reason is because I was looking forward to meeting some fellow travelers; having traveled solo a few times, I have actually found myself going an entire day without having a conversation with someone other than a restaurant server or hotel desk clerk. So I’ve changed my travel approach, and nowadays I try to find group events so I can mingle with others, if only for 2 or 3 days out of a 2 week tour.

Unfortunately, as the scheduled hour of departure approached, no one seemed to be showing up for the tapas tour. I went inside and inquired at the TI. It came as a huge surprise to them that a tour was even scheduled for that day. I told them about what I’d seen on their website. They said there was no tour happening. So I grabbed one of the travel brochures prepared by the official tourist office, thinking that perhaps I was wrong. There it was in black and white: January 12th, 11:30 am, pintxos tour. I showed it to the TI staffer. They didn’t seem too upset about it. No apology, no admission of an error or attempt to explain why there was no tour although it was clearly posted on their website as well as their brochure. They did, however, clear all those brochures off of the shelf, lest anyone else be misled by their mistake. I was just out of luck. So I headed out and continued my walk. (Before I sound too bummed out by this, I really wasn’t. I didn’t need a tour guide to show me how to order pintxos and have a thoroughly satisfying foodie experience – the Fodors Forums gave me that knowledge weeks before my trip!). If you're visiting San Sebastian, and if you have your heart set on joining one of these tours, you may want to consult the website schedules, then follow-up with an email before you take your trip, just to confirm things with the tourism dept.

Very near the TI, I took advantage of a tempting deal at “Paries” bakery: coffee and choice of pastry for 1.50 euros. As I enjoyed my coffee in the store, I perused their tempting array of treats. I noticed a lot of round, golden layer cakes, covered with cherries, with light creamy frosting between the layers and with a hole in the centre, like a Bundt cake. I also saw these in southern France. In St. Remy they were called “Gateau des Rois” (King’s Cake)…not sure what they’re called in the north of Spain. I larned that they are a seasonal treat, enjoyed by families around the period of Epiphany. There is a trinket baked inside one part of the cake, which only one person will get. The trinket comes with privileges and obligations (that last part comes from Wikipedia…I hate to quote other sources but I do want to get my story straight here!).

OK, after a snack it was time to head over to the fantastic San Sebastian Aquarium. On the walk over, I passed the bustling marina with its colorful boats, then the Naval Museum, as well as the launch for kayaks and sailboats (small, rowboat size vessels with 12-15 foot sails). The waters were quite choppy and I noted a few of the little boats turned on their side, courtesy of a pretty stiff wind in the bay.

The aquarium is situated in a fantastic seaside location. Newly renovated, there’s a lot to see here, and I’d consider it a must for any visitor. Well worth it. Admission cost 13 euros. I declined the audioguide. Total time spent here was 70 minutes. The visit starts with some museum exhibits, showing ship models, shells, some impressive models which demonstrate commercial fishing methods, and coolest of all, the skeleton of an 11-metre North Atlantic Right Whale, suspended from the ceiling. Eventually you reach the aquarium portion, which features over 5,000 fish. The highlight for me was the 360 degree tunnel, where you are surrounded on all sides, and above, by a great variety of aquatic creatures, including sharks. Pretty cool to see a shark’s belly as it swims 2 feet over your head! I also enjoyed the ‘theatre’ which has stadium seating but instead of a movie screen, there’s a huge tank filled with some huge fish (and a sinister looking sea monster down in the corner).

After visiting the aquarium, I followed the gradually-inclined paths up nearby Monte Urgull to the base of the statue of Christ. Here you’ll find a “History House”, but it’s closed until spring for renovations. No opening date was posted. I hadn’t really planned to tour this museum anyway, having just spent an hour inside the aquarium. Besides, my curiosity about pintxos, and the rumblings of my stomach, were really starting to dominate my thoughts! Before heading back down though, I enjoyed some excellent views of the bay on one side, and from the other side of Monte Urgull, a great view of the “Gros” neighborhood of San Sebastian, with its own beach. The waves here were large enough to draw a couple dozen surfers. The Kursaal centre was also easy to see. It’s a modern convention centre and auditorium with a unique design – like a box which has been blown askew by the wind. I don’t think it has any right angles.

At the base of Monte Urgull, back down in the old town, I stopped by the San Telmo Museum. Although I didn’t go inside, the guidebooks I consulted before the trip did say it’s a highly regarded museum. Recently overhauled, inside a 16th century convent, it’s the museum of Basque Society and Citizenship. A large sign proclaimed that it was nominated as best European museum for 2013. Perhaps next time I’ll drop in!

Now: pinch me, it’s time for pintxos. Sorry, I couldn’t resist. I’m a huge tapas fan. I can never decide what to order in a restaurant, because I fear I’ll be missing out on something else that might be better. What I love about tapas is that you don’t have to choose! You can have one of everything before you’re full! And you won’t be committing a lot of funds to one main dish.

Pre-trip, I’d prepared several lists of ‘must do’ pintxos bars, but I let my instincts guide me as well. My list of destinations came from travel guidebooks, Fodors trip reviews, and also from a number of recent newspaper articles I’d stumbled across, in which the author spent a weekend in San Sebastian touring the tapas-hotspots. (How can I get a job like that?!) Obviously, I knew that I’d be able to only scratch the surface of the pintxo experience, so here goes…

My first stop: La Cuchara de San Telmo, http://www.lacucharadesantelmo.com/l...rademadera.swf (cute website, but most of it’s under construction) at the end of a narrower-than-a-Silverado lane which begins just in front of the San Telmo Museum (about 50 feet from Calle Agosto 31, which is also loaded with pintxos bars). It’s rated #8 out of 426 San Sebastian restaurants on TripAdvisor.

Once inside (there was no lineup, although it was very busy at about 3pm), I grabbed a seat at the end of the bar. To my left, about 10 feet away, 3 chefs were working quickly to satisfy an unending stream of orders. They had over a dozen frying pans and saucepans on the go, turning out a great variety of perfect little plates, from a kitchen not much bigger than a king size bed. Impressive. There’s no food on the bar; you order from the blackboard. Prices range from 3-3.60 euros, dishes take about 4-5 minutes to prepare, and are served with a few pieces of baguette.

First, I tried the dish that so many reviewers had recommended: “Carrillera Ternera al Vino Tinto” (calf cheeks in red wine). Delicious and tender, with a mild taste. Second, Segovia-style “Cochinillo”. This suckling-pig is one of my favorite dishes ever, but not the first time I’ve tried it. I was lucky enough to visit Segovia 4 years ago, and fell in love with this dish there. I’m happy to say that this pintxos-sized version is every bit as perfect as the original. The skin is crispy, quite hard in fact, a little bit sweet, and perfectly salted, while the pork absolutely melts in your mouth. The jus had a slight tang to it. Finally, although I had told myself I wasn’t going to stay too long at any one establishment, I couldn’t resist ordering juuuuuust one more…

During my half hour at the bar, it seemed that at least half the orders shouted out by the bartenders were for foie gras. Any dish that is ordered by half the locals is definitely a dish I have to try! And I’m so glad I did. It was perfect. Just a bit crispy. ‘Classy’ is not a word I’d normally use to describe food, but I can’t think of a better description. It’s just a classy dish. Just enough flavour to be memorable, but not heavy. A little bit fatty, a little bit crispy, a lot of wow! Like the other two dishes I tried, the jus was perfect. I found myself sopping up the liquid remnants of each plate with the bread!

I had 2 drinks – first I tried the “Sidre” (2 fingers of cider in a tumbler), and then a glass of “Rosado” (rose wine). It was unexpectedly bursting with ripe flavour, and had a beautiful colour. A pleasant surprise. Total cost for my little feast was 14 euros. I also want to note that a large number of locals were ordering the Risotto. So it must be good.

I then walked around to the beach in Gros, where the surfers were still trying to hang ten, but mostly they were just laying on their boards riding the moderate waves. I walked around the Kursaal centre and eventually back to the pension, passing “La Bretxa” market (closed by 4pm), and a fascinating weather station in Plaza de Gipuzkoa, in front of the County Council building. I had hoped to visit the FNAC music store in San Martin shopping centre, but it was closed on this Sunday afternoon.

After a hotel pit-stop to recharge the batteries of my electronics, as well as my own, I headed back to Bar Iruna, which I had visited the night before. I had a small draft beer (2 euros) and a “Bollo de Queso” (cheese ball, 1.60 euros), which turned out to be the only disappointing thing I ate in Spain. Not for the taste, but because it was cold in the centre. It definitely could have used another 30 seconds in the microwave. It’s rather gross when it’s cold, probably because it reminds you of how unhealthy it is…

The only other thing I really wanted to accomplish today was to take the funicular up Monte Igueldo, which rises over the other side of La Concha Bay, opposite Monte Urgull. Rather than walk all the way there, I took two buses. First I hopped on a bus outside Bar Iruna, exiting at the TI. A long row of buses were lined up about 50 metres from the TI, but there was no sign of Bus #16, which is the one that runs to Monte Igueldo. Another bus driver informed me that Bus #16 stops a couple blocks away, at Plaza de Gipuzkoa, so I made the short walk over to that bus stop. As Bus #16 rolled up, I boarded, and asked the driver whether my previous bus ticket was valid for a transfer. Turns out it wasn’t, so I had to pay 1.60 for the 2nd time in 10 minutes. It took about 8 minutes for the bus to reach its stop right in front of Monte Igueldo funicular (although the timetable estimates the trip time to be 14 minutes). Here’s the link for Bus 16 info:
http://www.dbus.es/en/users/lineas-h.../16-igeldo/map

Cost to ride the funicular was 3.10 euros. Along the way up, in the hillside, “DSS 2016 EU” were spelled out in big white letters, a reference to Donostia – San Sebastian being selected European cultural capital for 2016. From the top, the views were outstanding, as expected. I arrived just before 5:30. It was still daylight, but some rain clouds were beginning to roll in, so there was no gorgeous sunset to behold on this evening. It was also very windy up on Monte Igueldo. I didn’t linger too long. The combination of rain, wind, darkness at 6pm, and dead batteries on both my mobile and regular cameras, conspired to put a quick end to my visit atop the mountain.

After getting off the funicular at the bottom, I exited the building and went to the bus shelter out front. I immediately checked the schedule for Bus 16. Within about a minute, just as I was starting to figure out the route and timing back to the old town, the bus actually rolled up. I wasn’t entirely sure what route that bus would be taking, or how long it would take to get back, so I let the bus leave, assuming another would be along within 5, 10, maybe 15 minutes, giving me time to figure out the route. Turns out the next one wasn’t scheduled for 30 minutes! I studied the route a little more carefully. From my understanding, the bus actually does a lengthy loop to the west of the funicular, before getting back to Plaza de Gipuzkoa. I calculated that route to take about 35 minutes. So at this point, my only real option was to walk back. No fear of getting lost…you just follow the seaside promenade. It took me 30 minutes to walk to my pension by the Euskotren station. (It would probably have taken the same amount of time to walk to the TI.)

So what tips can I pass on to my fellow travelers? Assuming the weather is lousy or your legs are tired and you don’t feel like walking back along the promenade, you should take a moment and study the Bus 16 timetable when you first arrive at the funicular stop, so you can plan your departure timing. The link to the Bus 16 schedule should help you out.

Alright, having finished my sightseeing, and having packed for my early departure the next morning, all I had left to do was visit a few pintxos bars in the evening, to complete my short visit to San Sebastian. First up: “La Mejillonera”, a place I’d read about in a Fodors trip report. This place was packed when I arrived (about 7:30 on a Sunday night). It’s a boisterous place. Plates of mussels everywhere. Waiters shouting orders in a sharp, piercing tone. The ‘tip bell’ being rung every few minutes. The type of place where you need to be a little aggressive if you want to get served, and place your order in your strongest baritone voice, to make sure you’re heard! I ordered the patatas bravas (1.60 euros, spicy!), a draft beer (1.60), and a plate of mussels “Marinera” (7 mussels for 3.10), with a basket of free bread. I ate while standing at the bar. Food quality was good, it was served quickly, and prices were certainly fair…a good start to the night.

My next stop took a bit of searching, but was well worth the effort. “Astelena” is located at Calle de Inigo 1, in Place de la Constitucion. This place was much more relaxing than the bustling La Mejillonera. I grabbed one of several open seats at the bar. Although a tempting array of pintxos covered the bar, I ordered off the blackboard. First I had Bacalao Encebollao (cod with onions, 3.20 euros), which I loved, along with a glass of rosada (1.20). Pleased with my first dish, and intrigued by the selections on the blackboard, I ordered a second: Solomillo a la Pobre (4.30). This was sirloin steak, served with fried onions, topped with a quail egg, along with fries and pimento puree, which is almost like ketchup. I just had to try the pintxo version of steak-frites. The steak put up a bit of a fight when I tried to cut it, as the fork actually bounced off the surface of the meat as I tried to pierce it! Needless to say, the meat was very rare inside (they don’t ask how you like it cooked). The egg was fabulous, as were the fries. Another delicious pintxo, although I prefer my steak cooked a little longer...to at least medium-rare. I could easily have worked my way deeper into the menu, but I moved on…

Next stop was a return to another place I’d been last night – Café Artess. Again I enjoyed one of their coffee-and-cake combos. This time I had café con leche with almond tarte for 2.95 euros. The cake was light and fluffy. It was much quieter in here than the night before. I caught up on the news by flipping through the local papers at the bar. Cover story was the 130,000 person demonstration held the night before in Bilbao (which I mentioned earlier, and which somehow didn’t affect me at all).

I really was quite full at this point. The plan was just to criss-cross the old town one more time and head to bed. But it didn’t work out that way. I consulted my list of food tips, and I noticed something I’d forgotten – that I needed to visit at least one bar that had hams hanging from the ceiling. I decided to drop into “La Cepa” at Calle de Agosto 7-9. The hams were hanging prominently here. In fact, the draft beer tap is shaped like a ham! It’s a classic Spanish tapas bar. I grabbed a seat at the bar and ordered a glass of blanco (white wine, 1.50). Before the bartender poured the wine from the bottle, he chilled the glass by filling it with ice cubes, letting it sit for about 15 seconds before replacing the ice with wine. The result was a very crisp, cold glass of blanco…and suddenly, I felt like eating again! The palate had been reset! My stomach had been overruled (I’d pay for it later though…all this gluttony led to a lot of tossing-and-turning during the night).

To round out my pintxos feast, I had a “jabugo” (Iberico) ham sandwich (2.40), from the selection of sandwiches on top of the bar. I had read that it’s polite to ask the bartender for a food item rather than simply grabbing it from the bar, so I followed that tip here. As expected, the sandwich was delicious. My mouth waters at the thought of that wonderful ham! To end the night, I had my second dessert (hey, I’m on vacation!) - a slice of “Pantxineta” cake. I’d describe it as a pie, filled with custard cream, topped with crystalized sugar and almonds. The bartender heated it for me, which toasted the almonds. It’s a fantastic dessert. Cake was 4 euros and café con leche was 1.40. On my way out, I noticed pictures of Cuba Gooding Jr. and Willem Defoe on the walls. Looks like they paid La Cepa a visit, 10-15 years ago. As a Canadian, I found it amusing, and very random, that Cuba Gooding Jr. was wearing a Beaver Canoe t-shirt in the photos.

And so ended my first San Sebastian pintxos experience. I really didn’t find many tourists there. I may have only heard 3 or 4 people speaking English during my 2 night visit. The vast majority of bar patrons appeared to be locals. I definitely didn’t see a single person with a Spain guidebook in any of the bars. Ditto for the afternoon walk around the beach and aquarium area…mostly locals, or at least visitors from other parts of Spain or the Basque region. But then it was the 2nd weekend in January, probably not the most popular time for international tourists.

One other thing I noticed is that people in this part of Spain were very respectful of traffic lights. Even on the smallest sidestreet in Bilbao or San Sebastian, with not a car in sight, if the traffic signal was red, people would patiently wait for it to turn. Not sure if the penalties for jaywalking are stiff here, or if people are just more law-abiding in this respect, but it’s definitely something I found interesting.

After checkout early in the morning, I made the very short walk to the Euskotren station to catch the “topo” train to Hendaye, on the border with France. These trains run twice an hour, at :15 and :45, and the trip takes 37 minutes. Cost is only 2.30. Not many people stay on until the end of the line; almost all of them exited at Irun station, which is the second-last stop.

And that does it for this part of the trip report. I loved my weekend in the Basque country. I could definitely have used an extra half-day in Bilbao (the part I lost due to late departure), but I felt that 2 nights and 1 day was enough for San Sebastian. It was fun, but I’m glad I budgeted only 1 full day here.

The next leg of this trip took me to Lourdes, then Carcassonne, Avignon and finally, Nice. Since I erred in tagging this trip report only under Spain, I’ll start a new trip report, and I’ll be sure to tag it under France.

I hope you’ve enjoyed my little travelogue, and appreciate you taking the time to read it! I hope you’ll join me for my swing through Southern France!

Cathinjoetown

Great report on San Sebastian, one of my favorite places!

HappyTrvlr

Wonderful, looking forward to reading more.

CarolA

Great report. Keep it coming.

joannyc

Enjoying your report!

No need to start another thread. Hit the yellow triangle and ask the editors to add the tags for you.

If you do start another thread, please include the link to it in this thread. I'll be heading to those France locations this year so am very interested in your trip.

kelbo

love this report and going to some of your spots this summer...I 'm onto the France portion! great writing and wow, you pack alot into a small amount of time

deonca

Thanks all for your nice comments! Good news, this report is now also tagged under France, thanks to that great tip from joannyc. Thank you!!!
I'll start posting the France portion soon.

deonca

<b>Day 3 - Lourdes </b>

My train from San Sebastian arrived in Hendaye, France (end of the line) at 8:52 am. The Euskotren station and the French SNCF station are only a few metres apart. With almost an hour to spare before my next train, I had a croissant and a café au lait at the coffee shop across from the SNCF station. Although I was only a short distance from Spain, the prices definitely told me I was in France: my little snack cost me 4.40 euros! Might as well get used to these higher prices; as I would discover over the next week and a half, it’s a challenge to travel here on a shoestring.

At 9:45, my train left for Lourdes. The first leg was to Dax. Second leg from Dax to Lourdes left at 11:03. I had bought the tickets online about 3 weeks prior to travel. Cost was 25.70. The train was barely half-full. Fog and clouds prevented me from enjoying any spectacular Pyrenees views. I arrived in Lourdes at 12:28 (therefore, my total travel time from San Sebastian was 4 hours and 13 minutes, although I could have left there 30 minutes later, on the 8:45, and still been able to catch my train from Hendaye).

I was excited to visit Lourdes for 2 reasons. First, as a Catholic I’d always wanted to visit. I’d been to Fatima 3 years earlier, so I was curious to see how Lourdes compared. Second, my parents had come here on honeymoon in 1957, 57 years ago (they lived in Belgium at the time, and Lourdes was a popular honeymoon destination in those days).

From the train station, a short 5 minute, downhill, 1-turn walk brought me to my lodging, the Hotel Majestic. Aside from the location and the price, I selected it because they have a reception desk that’s open in the afternoon. A few of the other hotels I had considered actually close their desks from 11am-4pm (that may be a winter policy). It was nice to be able to check in immediately, rather than having to walk around in the rain with luggage for 3 or 4 hours.

On check-in, I was greeted by the lovely manager Christine, who had just taken the job a couple weeks earlier. At first glance I was struck by her resemblance to the beautiful French actress Marion Cotillard. Bernadette may have been famous for her visions in Lourdes, but let me tell you, this gorgeous girl was a vision all her own. But I digress…we were talking about travel here, right?

Christine was the first French person I spoke to during my holiday, but our chat set the tone for other conversations I would eventually have with other staffers of French tourist offices, hotels, restaurants, shops, etc. They always gave me the information I needed, they were as kind as necessary, but they had no interest in making ‘small talk’. After they had fulfilled their duty, they quickly returned to whatever they were doing. I noticed this pattern over and over. They’re not interested in hearing about how long you’ve dreamt of visiting France, or about the weather in the town you had just visited. It takes a bit of getting used to, but it’s really not a negative…it’s just…different.

The Hotel Majestic cost 54 euros for a room with a double bed. The bathroom was clean, although the flimsy shower curtain and the low sill made flooding inevitable. My room was spacious, if not cutting-edge modern. Frankly, I don’t think anything can be described as cutting-edge modern in Lourdes. A lot of the town looks dated. As I walked the streets, I wondered if the town really looked that different from what my parents saw here almost 60 years ago. But let’s face it, I wasn’t really here to be pampered in luxury.

First stop after check-in was to find some lunch. Christine recommended Café-Brasserie Leffe, only 5 minutes from the hotel along the same street, about 2 minutes past the TI. That turned out to be a great tip. Lunch was fantastic, and the service was very professional and prompt. I had the plat du jour: chicken breast, topped with a delicious mushroom sauce and parsley. My baked potato was one of the best I’ve ever had. It seemed to have been infused with a half cup of butter, as every bite was wonderfully moist and flavorful. A small, warm tasty tomato finished off the plate. The meal cost only 8.50, certainly an excellent value (it really does make great sense to order the daily special – not only are you assured of a fresh dish at a fine price, but in this case, the meal was on the table in less than 5 minutes). I also had a draft Hoegaarden for 3.50. Bread and a carafe of water arrived without asking, free of charge. Coming from a country where free glasses of tap water are offered in any restaurant, I had done enough research to know that in France, you usually have to ask for a ‘carafe d’eau’ when you want water; if you don’t specify that, you’ll end up paying 3 euros for a small bottle of Evian. As it turned out, French restaurants were fairly generous with their water: at about half of the places I dined in France, I didn’t even have to ask for water, it just came free of charge.

By now the TI was open after closing for lunch, so I stepped inside for a few minutes. In winter, it’s open Monday to Saturday from 9-12 and 2-6. A handy little pamphlet listed the winter-hours of sites and Masses. After a 10 minute downhill walk, I arrived at the Sanctuaries of Notre Dame de Lourdes. I walked past the Grotto and the rows of candles, along the banks of the river Pau, to where the baths were. I hadn’t really done much research on the baths; I had assumed people were taking the baths in full view of the public, right in the river. That’s not the case. In winter (October 28 to April 5), baths are offered between 10-11 and 2:30-3:30, and on Sundays from 2:30 until 4. Schedule information online at http://en.lourdes-france.org/schedule

Frankly, I had some reservations about doing the baths…but when I observed people coming out from behind the doors, after having taken the baths, and saw the happy looks on their faces, I knew I couldn’t leave without doing it too. I sat outside in the rows of benches waiting to be called inside. There’s a separate door for men and women. After being waved in through the door, I was directed into one of the available ‘cabins’, which was attended by an older gentleman. Once inside, I was instructed to remove all clothing except my underwear, and I was asked which language I preferred to speak. Then on the other side of the cabin, a curtain was drawn open, and behind it I finally saw the bath. It’s about 3 feet wide, 3 feet deep, and 8 feet long, and was filled with water. A male attendant stood on either side. At the far end of the tub was a statue of the Virgin Mary. One of the men asked me to turn to my right, remove my underwear and hang it up. He wrapped a large white sheet around my waist and cinched it tight, and then guided me to the end of the bath.

I was asked to pray, so I prayed the Hail Mary and Our Father. Then the two men guided me as I stepped down into the bath, and walked me to the other end, towards the Virgin. They leaned me back, somewhat awkwardly, holding my upper arms so I wouldn’t fall back. They dunked me in the water, fully submerging me except for my face, for a second or two. Then I stood upright and was asked to collect some water in my hands and wash my face with it, then draw water again and to drink it. Finally, I was asked to kiss the feet of the Virgin Mary. And that was it. I was suddenly filled with a warm feeling, and couldn’t help but smile. It felt like I’d been baptised again. By the way, the water temperature was a refreshing 12 degrees Celsius. I returned to the cabin, got dressed, chatted with the 2 men and the attendant for a few minutes, and then walked back outside. As the few other remaining bathers were doing, I had my picture taken in front of the statue of the Virgin, under the inscription “Go Drink at The Spring and Bathe In Its Waters”, which is the message the Virgin gave to Bernadette.

It was now around 3:30, so I left the sanctuaries in order to visit ‘Le Cachot’, which was only open from 3-5pm. This was the home of Bernadette Soubirous, during the time she saw the Virgin Mary in a series of 18 visions in 1858. Then I walked over to the mountain in the centre of town - ‘Chateau Fort’, where I took the elevator up to the Musee Pyreneen (open from 9-12 and 2-6). Admission was 6 euros, and from the top I enjoyed a great panoramic view of the town and the mountains, although the skies were still mostly cloudy. The museum, which dates back to 1921, was interesting and well worth a visit, showcasing collections about the history and culture of the ‘mountain people’. Prior to being a museum, the castle was a prison, and before that, a fortress. www.chateaufort-lourdes.fr

Back down on street level, I wandered around the non-touristy portion of Lourdes, and what struck me was the large number of pharmacies in town, no doubt catering to the many sick people who visit the area. After dark, I returned to the Grotto to pray, to light a candle, and to briefly visit the Basilique du Rosaire. This basilica, as well as 3 other places of worship (Underground Basilica of St. Pius X, the Upper Basilica, and the crypt) are open in winter from 7am-7pm. After my period of spiritual reflection, I sought out some dinner. Having been totally satisfied with my lunch, I decided to return to the Leffe brasserie, only to find it closed. In fact, by 8pm almost every restaurant was closed. Probably not surprising on a Monday night, in low season. So I did what every traveller ends up doing at least once…I settled for McDonald’s. A “Royal with Bacon” combo cost 8 euros.

I wasn’t quite ready to call it a night yet, so I wandered around the deserted streets a bit more. This must have been one of the quietest towns I’ve ever visited, and that’s saying something because I always take my European trips in the quiet months of January and February! Even at 8pm it was sort of eerie walking through the maze of old, shuttered see-you-at-Easter hotels. I thought of getting a beer somewhere, but there were only a few places open, and none looked that appealing, so I went back to the hotel to catch up on my journal writing and get a good night’s sleep, as the next morning I wanted to get up early and catch a mid-morning train to Carcassonne. A quiet ending to a day of prayer and renewal. No less enriching than any of my other travel experiences, and a day I’ll never forget.

joannyc

Great day!

deonca

<b>Day 4 - Carcassonne</b>

Before catching a mid-morning train to Carcassonne, I wanted to explore a bit more of the Sanctuaries, so I got off to an early start today. First I had breakfast at the Hotel Majestic (9 euros). It wasn’t my favorite hotel breakfast ever, with mostly pre-packaged cheeses and pastries, but the croissants were fresh and the coffee plentiful. I figured I’d try at least one hotel breakfast in France, and this was it. Turns out to be the last one I paid extra for. I just felt that the value was better in the coffee shops surrounding the hotels in which I stayed.

After breakfast I spent about an hour at the Sanctuaries. I was the only person inside the underground Basilique St. Pie X. With room for 25,000 worshippers, it’s the world’s largest underground Church. It’s like an arena, shaped like an oval with the altar down in the middle. Huge banners (which hang all around the inside of the Basilica) pay tribute to the greatest figures of Christianity…Mother Theresa, Saint Peter, Saint Bernard, Pope John Paul II, etc. I was impressed by the Stations of the Cross; they are presented in a beautiful mosaic style. Most were lit from behind, but about a quarter of them were dark. My guidebook says this technique is called ‘gemmail’. After brief visits to the Crypt and the Upper Basilica, I walked to the station (briskly!) to be sure of catching the 9:39 train to Carcassonne, as the next one wouldn’t leave until 11:43.

I bought my train ticket at the station in Lourdes for 42.10 euros. I could have purchased it online from home, and saved about 6 euros, but I wanted to give myself the flexibility of being able to leave when I felt I was finished in Lourdes, rather than having to rush. I’m glad I planned it that way; as it turns out, I didn’t really need 2 more hours in Lourdes. A total of 21 hours was just about right. I had a 24-minute stopover to change trains in Toulouse (which is where I encountered the first of about a dozen ‘pay-toilets’ I would use in France. They charge 50 cents, and you find them anywhere, including tourist sites and department stores, so you should always have some change with you just in case.)

At 12:32 I arrived in cloudy Carcassonne. My hotel was just outside the walls of La Cite. I knew it was about a 15-minute walk from the station, so before the trip I had researched shuttle bus options to save myself the walk. Here’s what I encountered. I walked straight out of the station, and crossed the canal. Just over the water, to the right, I stopped at the annex location of the TI. That annex is closed until April, but shuttle bus schedules were posted on the door. Turned out there are no shuttles between 11:57 and 13:50. During regular hours they run about twice an hour, and the ride from ‘Chenier’ to ‘Cite Medievale’ lasts 17 minutes. (The main TI is located inside La Cite, just inside the Porte Narbonnaise; its winter hours are Monday-Saturday 9-12:30, and 13:30-18:00.)

It wasn’t raining, so I walked to my hotel rather than hailing a cab. From the annex TI, I turned onto Bd. Omer Sarraut, and walked a couple blocks before making a right at Bd Jean Jaures. Streets in the lower-town (‘La Bastide’) are grid-like, so it’s easy to navigate, and fairly flat. If you’re pulling luggage though, it’s rough-going, with lots of uneven surfaces and potholes. Bd Jean Jaures doesn’t have much of a sidewalk: it’s mostly a series of busy parking lots; other parts are unpaved. Eventually I arrived at Place Gambetta. Then over the Pont Neuf bridge, and my first glimpse of the magnificent walled city. Of course I couldn’t pass up this photo-op! Another 5 minutes brought me to the Hotel du Pont-Vieux, at 32 rue Trivalle. Total walk took about 15-20 minutes including taking pictures.

Choosing my accommodation in Carcassonne proved to be a bit of a challenge, in order to meet my main criteria: good price (under $100 Canadian), good reviews, and good location. My guidebooks spoke of the mystique of sleeping inside the city walls, so I definitely explored hotel options there, only to find them well beyond my budget. Frankly, in winter I don’t know if sleeping inside the walls is such a big attraction that it warrants paying extra. Because it’s quiet during the day or night, it’s not as if 1000 tourists have suddenly left after dinner and you have the place to yourself…it’s pretty much like that at 2pm as well if you’re visiting on a Tuesday in January!

I also looked at a couple of options in the lower town, but as it turns out, I made a great choice, the perfect balance of location and value. From my hotel, it was only a 5-7 minute walk (uphill!) to the Narbonne Gate and the medieval city. And the price was fantastic, just 39 euros a night, for a fairly large room with a double bed and private bath (no view of the walls). Some online reviewers weren’t too thrilled with the cleanliness of the bathroom, but I had no quibbles. The only challenge was managing to use the shower wand in a bath with no curtain, without spraying water everywhere. I’m proud to say I didn’t spill a drop. The walls weren’t much of a sound barrier, as I heard my neighbours chatting as I tried to sleep that night, but otherwise it was very quiet.

The two staff members I met, when checking in and out, didn’t speak English, but I managed to communicate with my basic French. I found it interesting that they provided me with the key, as well as the TV remote control, when I arrived. First time that has happened. The last thing on my mind would be to steal the remote, but I guess it happens here. Coming and going a couple times throughout the evening, the reception desk was unattended, so I punched in a code to access the hotel from the street.

After check-in, I headed up to La Cite. Just inside the walls, I visited the quiet TI, staffed by one person. In summer, it’s apparently so busy that they have four people on staff, and they get 900-1000 people coming through every day. On the day I visited, I’d be surprised if they had 10% of that total.

Hungry after a long train ride, I was looking forward to a nice, quality, non-rushed lunch. The girl at the TI recommended the Brasserie Donjon, so I headed there. It was almost 2:00 by now, and I could tell they were hesitant to let me in, but thankfully they allowed me to dine there. (Late-afternoon closings seemed common for a lot of eateries during my time in France; later in the evening, I noticed the brasserie was one of only 3 or 4 places that was open in La Cite). I ordered the ‘Cassoulet’ which is a typical dish of the region, available on every restaurant menu I saw posted. It took about 20 minutes to prepare, and since it was so hot, it took at least as long to eat. Beware! Even after 15 minutes, the broth still packs enough heat to burn the roof of your mouth! My favorite part was the crusty top. The dish also includes a sausage, white beans, as well as duck. Unfortunately, the dish was so hot that it somehow reduced my enjoyment of the flavours (I also felt a little rushed to leave, as by time the meal came, I was the only person left in the restaurant and the staff was clearly ready to close after I finished). With my cassoulet, I enjoyed a delicious glass of Cotes du Rhone red wine (3 euros), along with bread and a carafe of water. The menu for 18 euros included a choice of dessert. From the many choices, I selected the blueberry tartlet, served cold, with blackberry sorbet. Loved that sorbet! Total cost for lunch was 22.90. (I paid with my debit card, which proved to be an extremely convenient way to pay throughout the holiday. I used to run to European bank machines every few days, but by ‘paying direct’ you really do conserve cash, and it’s easier to track your spending when you get back home.)

A short walk brought me to Chateau Comtal, which is probably the main attraction in the medieval city. Good thing I didn’t postpone my visit here, as a sign at the entrance noted that they were closing at 4:30 today only, a half hour earlier than usual. The cashier mentioned that there may be a free guided tour, in French, beginning at 3pm, but nobody else showed up, so I toured the castle by myself. Cost was 8.50 (skipping the 4.50 audioguide), and I spent an hour there. The big-screen 11-minute historical video was very good. From there I strolled around the town…only a couple of souvenir shops were open.

There’s also a torture museum and a school museum inside the walls - I skipped those. But I did visit the St. Nazaire Cathedral, which no longer functions as a parish Church. It’s part Romanesque, part Gothic, having been partially destroyed in the 1300s, and then rebuilt. The huge, 14th century rose windows were a highlight. Afterwards, I wandered around the outer walls until 6:30, taking advantage of the beautiful spotlighting to capture some striking pictures of the walls. Definitely the best time of day to photograph Carcassonne is after dark. I exited through Porte Narbonnaise for the 5 minute downhill walk to my hotel, to relax for an hour or so.

Around 8pm, I walked down to the lower town, thinking there might be something of interest down there…shops, bars, a circus perhaps. Uh, no. Nothing going on at all. I found it really dull, so I went to the Carrefour market and bought a sandwich for dinner, which I ate back in my room. I capped the evening by taking the Rick Steves night walk around the walls, my guidebook pointing out interesting things along the way. I went inside the pricey Hotel de la Cite, not to eat but just to snoop, as far as the plush dining room. There were a few tables of diners there at 10pm, enjoying their meal in luxurious, extremely quiet surroundings. No one was in the bar, nixing one possible idea I had. With the streets deserted, and having traversed every lane in the walled town, I headed back to the hotel and retired for the night. I knew I’d seen all I wanted to see, and was ready to head to Avignon first thing in the morning, to begin my Tour de Provence!

kerouac

This is absolutely one of the best trip reports that I have ever read on Fodors due to the precise details of exactly what you did and what you paid, the time you waited and everything else.

I think my favourite details are about the baths in Lourdes. As a non believer, I would have no idea of what goes on without your wonderful telling of the event. I went to Lourdes for the first time when I was 6 years old -- my father was a rather fanatical Catholic in spite of having broken every rule in the book -- we had a huge Virgin Mary statue in the living room -- and my mother was a tolerant French woman, all the more tolerant because she had married someone who had broken every rule in the book. We went to Lourdes for the August 15 pilgrimage, and I still have a very clear memory of the candlelit procession around the sanctuary. Naturally what I liked was holding a candle in a paper cone and being out at night at that age in a huge group of people and any religious significance was lost on me.

Nevertheless, I have complete respect for the "believers" who go there because one feels that it is a sacred place whether one believes or not (I feel the same in Buddhist temples in Thailand.). I totally understand that "faith" has considerable power, particularly when trying to recover from a horrible disease. People who think they will recover sometimes do, while people who believe in nothing generally perish.

I thought it was interesting that you mentioned all of the pharmacies in Lourdes but did not at all mention the "merchants of the temple" which has always been the main thing that I see there on the principal street of town. ;-)

Carcassonne is exactly as you describe it. <I>Intra muros</I> is pretty much out of reach financially for most of us, but I am happy to walk around inside and eat and sleep outside. Younger visitors should know, however, that there is quite a large youth hostel inside the walls.

I am looking forward to your tale of Avignon since I go there every year for the festival in July -- at least for the last 15 years -- and adore the energy at that time. I have been to Avignon at other times of year and find it desolate, but only in comparison to the July kinetic frenzy.

joannyc

Loving this! Thanks!

Very happy that I have decided to stay one night in Carcassone.

joannyc

Should have added ... and a night in Lourdes.

Truffles

deonca - Can you elaborate on using your debit card? I'm from Toronto, and would love to be able to use my debit card when travelling, but didn't realize it was possible...

Great trip report - I've been to Lourdes & Carcassone, both in July when they are teeming with people.