Basque Country and Catalonia/Barcelona Trip Report
Nov 29th, 2009, 07:49 PM
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Basque Country and Catalonia/Barcelona Trip Report
Thanks to so many people on this board for all of your help. I am finally getting to post a trip report from our trip to Basque Country, Barcelona, and parts of Catalonia north of Barcelona.
Tuesday, September 1
Uneventful overnight Air France flight from Dulles to Paris, with my wife and 23-year old son.
Wednesday, September 2
We arrived somewhat early, which made the transfer in Paris doable despite a long line to go through security. Signs for transfer were better than when we were there last time, although as expected we had to take a bus to the commuter terminal. Had croissants and coffee at the airport, and then flew to Bilbao.
Easy public bus to downtown Bilbao from the airport (designed by Calatrava).
Checked into one of our 2 rooms at the Abba Parque Hotel, which is a nice business type with reasonable prices (61 euros per night not including breakfast). The hotel is in a convenient location (on Rodriquez Arias just east of Avenida de Sabino Arana), a fairly short walk from the Guggenheim and the Museo de Bellas Artes, and the Licienciado Poza tapas area, as well as a few blocks from the tram line that runs to the old city. However, the desk staff was not very helpful. It is useful that it has a parking garage, though it is 22 euros per night and it is very difficult to get into and out of because of small spaces and tight turning radiuses. The hotel also has a view of the Guggenheim from a small rooftop seating area (though you can only see the view when standing up).
Walked through the attractive Parque de Dona Casilda, past several buildings with interesting architecture, to the Guggenheim Museum (13 euros per person, including audioguides for inside and separately for outside). The park has interesting exercise stations.
The Guggenheim collection and special exhibits are nothing to write home about, but the building itself and its effects on the surrounding city are fascinating. The huge statue of a dog with flowers in bloom all over it, apparently during every season, is appealing.
Had a good menu of the day lunch at Abaroa Plaza Museo (Plaza del Museo 3) at an excellent price of 10.30 euros per person.
Walked back to hotel, then walked back to the Museo de Bellas Artes, which was free on Wednesdays. Very lively in the park in the late afternoon, as people of all ages came out for a paseo.
Took a tram to the old city (Casco Viejo), which is a large warren of narrow streets and a pretty plaza (Plaza Nueva). Sat down for a tapas (Pinxto) selection at Victor Montes on the plaza---not a bad way to get an introduction, but didn’t get to choose what we liked and tended to have more mayonnaise based pinxtos than we liked (36.80 euros including beer and 2 wines; tapas 2.10 euro each). Also had a few stand-up pinxtos at Café Estoril (Plaza Campuzano 3, chorizo tortilla) and had a number of stand-up pinxtos at Sasibil (Calle Jardines Kalea 8, quail brochette, cod several ways, etc.), 14.10 euros (1.70 each).
Tram back to hotel.
Thursday, September 3
Got breakfast at a busy bar down the street from the hotel (Cafeteria Swansea, 10.30 euros). We particularly enjoyed the “tortilla de patatas” (potato omelets).
Walked over to pick up rental car arranged through AutoEurope at Europcar, which worked smoothly, although the people at the Europcar desk didn’t know the best way to drive to the Bilbao airport.
Drove to the La Rioja wine area via Artziniega and Amurrio (probably not worth that detour, though might have been nicer if it were sunnier, as it was later in the day). Drove through Vitoria to A 2124 (was hard to find the correct road) to Puerto de Herrera to Briones. Nice mountainous, green scenery until driving down to the flatter, dryer planes of the wine area, with striking rock formation overlooking the plain.
Drove to Museo de la Cultura del Vino, though we did not end up going through the museum. We had a good, relaxing lunch at the Dinastia Vivanco restaurant in the museum, with a beautiful view of vineyards in the foreground and mountains in the background. The gas was not working for a while, which slowed down the process but resulted in them bringing us a free platter of delicious Serrano ham. (Vegetable risotto, lamb chops, excellent Vivanco Crianza and Vivanco Reserva wine, etc.) (80 euros)
Drove to Elciego to look at the outside of a Gehry-designed hotel, Marques de Riscal, operated by Starwood. (http://www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury...ropertyID=1539
Drove to Laguardia, a charming walled village, and walked around, had coffee and watched a clock with 3 people who come out and dance at certain times (a few minutes before the stated times).
Saw the Calatrava-designed Ysios vineyard as well as other nice scenery on the drive to Haro. Relaxed in the plaza at Haro, which bills itself as the capital of Haro though it is much more of a working class city than more touristy places like Laguardia.
Drove back to Bilbao, which turned out to be very busy with no parking spaces to be had, so we parked in the hotel garage with considerable difficulty.
Went up to the roof of our hotel to look at view of Guggenheim.
Walked over to the Poza area a few blocks from our hotel and had excellent tapas (ham, anchovies, etc.) at Restaurante Busterri (Licenciado Poza N-43) (33 euros).
Drove to airport to pick up our 26-year old daughter and her boyfriend. Airport is only a few minutes drive from the hotel, via a toll tunnel (the city sits just south of a range of mountains).
Friday, September 4
Had breakfast at the same nearby bar.
Drove over to Guggenheim so our daughter and her boyfriend could walk around it from the outside and buy posters for their apartment.
Drove to San Sebastian and found our hotel, Hotel Record. (88 euros double, 72 single, including free parking in a small lot that can require some juggling to get out of; Calzada Vieja 35). We had chosen it by default, because no other hotel for less than 200 euros in a location we liked was available. San Sebastian is the only place on the trip where we had difficulties finding available hotels a few months before the trip. The four TripAdvisor reviews were accurate, I think—very simple but cute building, more like a house, in a location that involves somewhat of a walk to the old city but much of it can be along the surfer (Zurriola) beach, and very close to the Gros area that includes some of the best tapas (Pinxtos) bars. The walls are very thin and the bathrooms modest, but the people are very nice and helpful. We knew what to expect and were fine with that, and we liked it.
We took a walk along Zurriola Beach and over to the old city. We went into a modern shopping center which is apparently the site of an old market. The market (Mercado de la Bretxa) has been rebuilt on the lower level of the shopping center and has a wide range of food stalls.
We then walked around the old city and ended up getting lunch at La Cepa, 31 de Augusto 7 where we had 5 menus of the day (paella and veal, and a selection of 5 different desserts for the table).
After going back to the hotel to rest for a while and to avoid the rain, we took a long walk across the city through the shopping district and along the beautiful Concha Beach, ending up at Miramar (the queen’s house that attracted so many people to come to San Sebastian in the summer), where we avoided a downpour by sitting on a covered porch (this was the only day of the trip that rain was an issue). As we walked along the beach, we saw a group of young people doing training, perhaps for crew racing that we saw on Sunday.
Walked back to the old city and did Pinxtos hopping. Asado Ganbara, San Jeronimo 21, was particularly good, including a fabulous plate of a variety of mushrooms. The kids really got into ordering Pinxtos at a very popular place on Fermin Calbeton.
Saturday, September 5
Croissants and coffee at a bar a few blocks from the hotel.
Drove to the French Basque country, inadvertently ending up driving through Hendaye (which seems to have a nice beach), along the Corniche Basque (pretty) and into St. Jean-de-Luz, which looks like it would be a nice French beach city, and then to several cute French Basque villages (all of which were full of mostly French tourists for the weekend). We first drove through Ascain to Sare, which is a pretty town in a nice setting. We had a nice lunch outside under plane trees at the Hotel Arraya, which seems like a lovely place. (Roule de Saumon Fume, salade morue, cuisse de lapin, filet de truites, noix de veau). 108 euros for 5 people. We then picked up two delicious Gateaux de Basque at a stand next to the restaurant.
We then drove through Ainhoa and up a steep dirt road to the Chapelle de Notre-Dame d’Aubepine, following signs to oratoire. Beautiful views of the town below, the Atlantic Ocean in the distance, and mountains all around. I napped in the car and others walked up even farther—the kids to the top of the mountain (too steep for my wife).
Then drove to Espelette, which specializes in red peppers, which are hanging from many buildings.
Had hoped to stop in Hondarribia on the way back to San Sebastian, but it turned out to be mobbed with people, and no parking spaces were available for miles. We drove beyond the town and took pictures down to the water and then had beautiful views of sundown on the rugged coast from the GI 3440 road (the closest to the ocean from Hondarribia to Pasai Donibane close to San Sebastian).
Drove back to hotel and walked over to Alona Berri Bar, Bermingham 24, in the Gros area, which had very creative, delicious Pinxtos. 83 euros for 5 people, mostly 3-4 euros per tapas. We had txirristra, equilibrio, delicias ulia, milhojas, croqueta, entgrecot de atun, lechera, pimiento relleno, brocheta rape, foie manzana, bastela, carrillera, and mango. Splitting everything 5 ways so we would all taste them was quite a challenge that the proprietors will probably long remember. Highly recommended. (Also had the advantage of discouraging smoking.)
http://www.alonaberri.com/index2.html
Sunday, September 6
We walked over to do laundry at a laundromat.
Many bars were not open even at 9:30, but walked over to one bakery that was open for breakfast.
With some juggling, got car out, and drove to base of Monte Igeldo funicular. Took funicular to the top, and it turned out to be mobbed with people looking down at the water to root for one crew team or another in a big race. Beautiful views of the pretty beach, Monte Urgull at the other end of the beach, Isla Santa Clara, the city of San Sebastian, the mountains beyond, and the rocky coast to the west. Kiddie amusement park rides on the top also.
Took funicular down and drove on E70 to Zarautz exit to Getaria. We parked up the hill and walked down near an interesting modern building that we subsequently learned will be part of a museum about the fashion designer Balenciaga. We walked through the historic town to the waterfront and had a delicious lunch of various types of grilled fish sitting outside overlooking the water at Asador Mayflower (118 euros).
Continued along coast road to the west, with beautiful viewpoints at various places interspersed with beach towns.
We were trying to continue through Lekeitio to Gernika, etc., but as we approached Lekeitio policemen told us that the road was closed (apparently due to some sort of festival) and that we would have to make our way to Bilbao on another route. The road signs were hopeless, but fortunately we had GPS on a Blackberry, which enabled us to figure out a route that got us to the road to Muntibar. Once we found the route, this turned out to be a very pretty mountain road, which looked to be able to get us to Bilbao via a viewpoint at Balcon de Bizkaia. However, when we reached Muntibar, a sign made it appear that the road to the Balcon would be blocked and therefore was potentially a dead end. We decided to try it anyway, and it did lead to a place with beautiful mountain views. However, the road was blocked shortly after the Balcon, so we backtracked and drove by way of Bolibar and Durango.
Found the gas station that the rental agency said would be open on Sunday, as we expected to be returning the car early the next morning.
Drove back to Abba Parque Hotel in Bilbao (after finding a parking space on the street). In attempting to check in for the flight from Bilbao to Barcelona the next morning, I discovered that the cheap tickets I had bought months ago were for the wrong date. Buying new tickets for the next day would be very expensive. AutoEurope was very accommodating and allowed us to keep the car and drop it off in Barcelona when we planned to drop off the car we were going to pick up in Barcelona, for a lower rate than for the planned 2 separate cars, so we decided to drive across to Catalonia after all (we had considered and eventually dismissed this option when planning the trip a number of months ago, although it had been a close call).
Our daughter and her boyfriend went scouting for a restaurant (most places were closed on Sunday). They decided what they really felt like was Chinese food (which they don’t get in Brussels, where they live), and they found Restaurante China City, Licenciado Poza 34. Some dishes were okay and some not so good. 42 euros.
Monday, September 7
Woke up very early, drove our daughter and her boyfriend to airport, and then headed on the long drive to Vic. Road is pretty through the mountains until getting to La Rioja, and then nice views of the mountains to the north, but after that not very interesting until views of Montserrat mountain to the south.
Found Parador Vic-Sau a few km to the north of Vic without difficulty. A very nice facility with beautiful views of a reservoir surrounded by rocky hills. We were upgraded to rooms with reservoir views. (130 euros for double with 55+ discount; 90 euros for single with under 25 discount; including excellent buffet breakfast.)
Had a good lunch in the Parador dining room (68 euros). (hake, sausage, etc.)
Relaxed at the pool for a little while (water quite cool).
Drove on pretty road to Girona, which is a bustling, attractive city with narrow medieval streets along a river. Wandered through the streets, including the Jewish quarter.
Decided to go back to hotel and see what we could eat at the bar. Ended up eating outside, enjoying the view, with delicious ham and manchego cheese from the bar, 36 euros. Talked with nice couple from England who said this is their favorite parador.
Tuesday, September 8
Woke up to beautiful views of the reservoir partially fogged in. Then cleared up for another beautiful day.
After buffet breakfast, we drove into Vic, which was having a busy market day in the central square.
Drove by way of Ripoll to Camprodon (where rich people from Barcelona have second homes). Drove some distance up the road towards Volter 2000 (pretty but not all that exciting).
Drove back to Camprodon and then on an extraordinarily narrow but scenic road to Beget. Somewhat scary—felt had to honk before each turn, because the road was clearly not wide enough for 2 cars to be side by side. Nice views of multiple layers of mountains. Beget itself is a very small, cute stone town that feels very isolated.
Drove back south to Sant Joan de les Abadesses and east on GI 52w1 to Coll de Coubet and Olot. Nice mountain views.
Drove below Castelfollilt de la Roca, which is strikingly built on top of a basalt precipice.
Drove into Besalu, a medieval village with a striking bridge, on which some sort of music festival was underway. Had lunch in a café on the main square, and then walked around for a little while.
Drove into Figueres, where we found our Hotel Pirineos, good location within walking distance of Dali museum, inexpensive parking (4 euros) in open lot (somewhat more in garage), rooms okay but quite basic. (63 euros for double, 54 for single)
Walked over to Theatre-Museu Dali (11 euros per person), wild on outside and inside with many eggs on roof, painting of Abe Lincoln that shows a nude woman when viewed by telescope (and in photograph) but not in person, various devices that move if you put a coin in them (Dali was very good at promotion and revenue generating).
Had a luxurious, interesting, but expensive dinner “of the region” at Hotel Emporda, Av. Salvador Dali 170 (141 euros). Melon soup, cod, cepes with onion compote, seafood croquette, roast pigeon in red wine, stuffed apple, cake, ice cream with mint.
Definitely not lively at night like much of Spain.
Wednesday, September 9
Had continental breakfast around the corner from hotel.
Drove on beautiful but somewhat difficult road (narrow) into Cadaques.
Parked near the entrance and walked through the town to the Mediterranean. Beautiful (though touristy) whitewashed town with narrow streets and great views of the harbor, particularly from the plaza in front of the Santa Maria church. Hard to find the tourist office, which was marked at several places on maps on the street—turns out to be down at the harbor.
At recommendation of Cadaques tourist office, drove to see outside of nearby Casa Museo Dali and then to beautiful viewpoint at the Cap de Creus lighthouse. Relaxed with coffee on plaza (5 euros).
Drove to Empuries Greek and Roman ruins (3 euros per person) and walked around—nice seafront setting and mosaics.
At suggestion of the English couple we met at the Parador in Vic-Sau, we found the Aiguablava beach below the Parador Aiguablava and went to the non-parador restaurant on the beach. Beautiful cove type beach that we could see from the restaurant. Good fried calamari, and mussels and paella (39 euros). Walked up to parador, which also offers excellent views.
Drove to Barcelona Airport, where we didn’t see any signs to the rental car return but finally found it. Had to call apartment rental agency several times as it took considerably longer than we had anticipated.
Had read in various places that could take railway train directly from airport to The Francia station, which is very near our apartment. However, we later learned that train schedules changed in January, and trains no longer go directly to Francia. We walked onto a train and people seemed to be saying that it was the wrong one, so we go off. It actually was the correct train, but we would not have figured out that we had to get off at Passeig de Gracia and change to a train to Francia, which we had figured out by the time the next train arrived. Transfer worked well, with train for Francia coming at the same platform a few minutes after we got off at Passeig de Gracia.
Apartment (Princesa 2, rented from Habitat) is a few blocks from Francia station. The location is fabulous, in the Born area a couple of blocks from the lively Paseo de Born, and a few blocks along Princesa from a subway station and the Cathedral area of the Bario Gotic, yet it is on a narrow pedestrian street and therefore very quiet. The apartment itself is fine, though with simple furnishing. It is a little unusual in that you can look down on a store through an interior window covered by a drapery, but that does not affect livability of the unit. However, the apartment only has air conditioning in the kitchen/living room, and the cool air does not reach the bedrooms very well. (I don’t know what the situation is with respect to heat.) There are 2 fans in the apartment, although one did not work initially. (2 BR apartment for 600 euros for 4 nights)
(We emailed Habitat, and they replaced the defective fan the next day.) I would rent the apartment again because of its location, but only if I were reconciled to being cool enough with fans at night.
Had very good tapas at an outside table at Celler de la Ribera on Placa de les Olles, a few blocks from the apartment (44 euros). (Goat cheese, mushrooms, etc.)
Thursday, September 10
Picked up breakfast (ham, cheese, freshly baked bread) to eat at the apartment at a small supermarket on Paseo del Borne 17, De tot al born (19 euros, including ham and cheese for multiple days).
Walked to Barri Gotic around Cathedral and surrounding streets and to pretty Placa Reial which has Gaudi-designed lampposts.
Walked over to Palau Guell, an early house designed by Gaudi. Free admission because can only go into basement. Wild roof elements.
Walked up Ramblas past umbrella building through Boquria Market, and up to tourist information office at Placa de Catalunya (long lines, not very forthcoming or all that knowledgeable—insist that train goes directly from airport to Francia, no bathrooms). They told us that we needed to buy tickets for tours of Palau de Musica, so we walked over there to buy tickets for the next day (probably could get English tickets for the same day, but perhaps not in summer according to Rick Steves).
Taxi to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia (10 euros per person). Walked through with good audioguide (4 euros per person).
Subway to La Bodegueta, Rambla Catalunya 100, for lunch of various tapas (18 euros)
Walked to Gaudi’s Casa Mila (La Pedrera), 10 euros per person. Roof particularly interesting for the wild shapes and views of Sagrada Familia and the phallic high-rise building. Paid extra for the audio guide, but not particularly user friendly or useful.
Walked down Passeig de Gracia to “block of discord,” with houses designed by Gaudi and 2 other architects.
Subway back to apartment.
Walked to Santa Caterina Cuines, delicious, interesting multinational dinner in a large space that is part of the Santa Caterina market. (Chicken curry, Gyoza, pork, etc.) (68 euros)
Friday, September 11
Picked up additional food for breakfast back at the apartment.
We walked over to the Placa de Catalunya for the Bari Gotic walking tour that we had bought tickets for the day before (12 euros per person). The tour was very good.
We walked into the cathedral (free because it was a holiday—commemoration of loss of Catalonian independence) and saw the famous, albeit rather boring Sardana dancing outside the Cathedral.
Walked back to connect with our son and had very good tapas at Lonja de Tapas, Placa del Palau 7, which turned out to be a sister restaurant to Celler de la Ribera. Huevo estrellado, potato tortilla (omelet), tomato, goat cheese, etc.
Walked by Santa Catalina Market and through narrow streets to the Palau Musica Catalana, which is an amazing building designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, a contemporary of Gaudi. 12 euros per person, but well worth it. No photos allowed inside. http://images.google.com/images?q=pa...N&hl=en&tab=wi
Walked over to Placa de Catalunya, where it turns out there is an outdoor Tourist Information (TI) booth that had no lines. Somewhat but not totally accurate information re bus to Parc Guell. (TI booth is on east side of Passeig de Gracia, across from main TI, which is at SE corner of the Placa.)
Took bus to Parc Guell, which worked well (lets you off at the eastern entrance). The Gaudi-designed park is amazing, and was full of people enjoying it on this holiday. Had cokes at the café.
Took bus from the bottom of the park and the subway to Barceloneta station, and then walked on promenade along nice beach to view of fish designed by Gehry.
Dinner (seafood paella) at Can Manel (Passeig Joan de Borbo 60-61), 59 euros.
Took bus back to apartment.
Saturday, September 12
Walked along Passeo del Borne and into stark gothic church Santa Maria del Mar. Already cleaning up posters on walls from independence protests the day before.
Went to Museu Picasso, mostly pre-cubist paintings from his time in Barcelona, plus fascinating takeoffs on Velazquez’s Las Meninas., with video that zeroed into each aspect of the painting Picasso reinterpreted and his multiple reinterpretations. (9 euros per person)
Went into the very small synagogue (Associacio Call de Barcelona, 2 euros each)
Went back to apartment to connect with our son. He had heard that hot chocolate was exceptional in Barcelona, but the store that supposedly had it did not sell hot chocolate. They didn’t speak English, but they communicated that we should go to Calle Petritxol, where we found Granja Dulcinea at Petritxol 2 about to close for siesta. But they gave us a small portion to go—extremely thick (like chocolate pudding) and rich (2.70 euros).
Went to Museum of History of Barcelona, which is particularly notable for the Roman ruins under the city that you can walk through.
Had a good tapas lunch at Taller de Tapas, Calle Argeneria 51, 41 euros.
Went to old Born market (whose excavations were purported to be open weekends but wasn’t) and Francia station to try to figure out the situation re trains to airport. The person at the information desk did not speak English and was particularly unhelpful, but a person in the office was helpful.
Walked along harbor past Columbus Monument, and pedestrian bridge to Maremagnum. Walked up Ramblas, through Raval on No de la Rambla to funicular to Montjuic. Very few people up there at this time, but nice views of city including Sagrada Familia. However, despite postcards of it lit up, lights never went on.
Took funicular back down, and subway to Espanya for magic fountains—amazingly crowded, considering it is on many nights of the year.
Had excellent dinner at Sagardi Restaurant, Argenteria 64 (Iberian ham, rape, tuna, duck, truffles, etc.) (119 euros)
Train worked well, and flights home via JFK were uneventful.
Len
Tuesday, September 1
Uneventful overnight Air France flight from Dulles to Paris, with my wife and 23-year old son.
Wednesday, September 2
We arrived somewhat early, which made the transfer in Paris doable despite a long line to go through security. Signs for transfer were better than when we were there last time, although as expected we had to take a bus to the commuter terminal. Had croissants and coffee at the airport, and then flew to Bilbao.
Easy public bus to downtown Bilbao from the airport (designed by Calatrava).
Checked into one of our 2 rooms at the Abba Parque Hotel, which is a nice business type with reasonable prices (61 euros per night not including breakfast). The hotel is in a convenient location (on Rodriquez Arias just east of Avenida de Sabino Arana), a fairly short walk from the Guggenheim and the Museo de Bellas Artes, and the Licienciado Poza tapas area, as well as a few blocks from the tram line that runs to the old city. However, the desk staff was not very helpful. It is useful that it has a parking garage, though it is 22 euros per night and it is very difficult to get into and out of because of small spaces and tight turning radiuses. The hotel also has a view of the Guggenheim from a small rooftop seating area (though you can only see the view when standing up).
Walked through the attractive Parque de Dona Casilda, past several buildings with interesting architecture, to the Guggenheim Museum (13 euros per person, including audioguides for inside and separately for outside). The park has interesting exercise stations.
The Guggenheim collection and special exhibits are nothing to write home about, but the building itself and its effects on the surrounding city are fascinating. The huge statue of a dog with flowers in bloom all over it, apparently during every season, is appealing.
Had a good menu of the day lunch at Abaroa Plaza Museo (Plaza del Museo 3) at an excellent price of 10.30 euros per person.
Walked back to hotel, then walked back to the Museo de Bellas Artes, which was free on Wednesdays. Very lively in the park in the late afternoon, as people of all ages came out for a paseo.
Took a tram to the old city (Casco Viejo), which is a large warren of narrow streets and a pretty plaza (Plaza Nueva). Sat down for a tapas (Pinxto) selection at Victor Montes on the plaza---not a bad way to get an introduction, but didn’t get to choose what we liked and tended to have more mayonnaise based pinxtos than we liked (36.80 euros including beer and 2 wines; tapas 2.10 euro each). Also had a few stand-up pinxtos at Café Estoril (Plaza Campuzano 3, chorizo tortilla) and had a number of stand-up pinxtos at Sasibil (Calle Jardines Kalea 8, quail brochette, cod several ways, etc.), 14.10 euros (1.70 each).
Tram back to hotel.
Thursday, September 3
Got breakfast at a busy bar down the street from the hotel (Cafeteria Swansea, 10.30 euros). We particularly enjoyed the “tortilla de patatas” (potato omelets).
Walked over to pick up rental car arranged through AutoEurope at Europcar, which worked smoothly, although the people at the Europcar desk didn’t know the best way to drive to the Bilbao airport.
Drove to the La Rioja wine area via Artziniega and Amurrio (probably not worth that detour, though might have been nicer if it were sunnier, as it was later in the day). Drove through Vitoria to A 2124 (was hard to find the correct road) to Puerto de Herrera to Briones. Nice mountainous, green scenery until driving down to the flatter, dryer planes of the wine area, with striking rock formation overlooking the plain.
Drove to Museo de la Cultura del Vino, though we did not end up going through the museum. We had a good, relaxing lunch at the Dinastia Vivanco restaurant in the museum, with a beautiful view of vineyards in the foreground and mountains in the background. The gas was not working for a while, which slowed down the process but resulted in them bringing us a free platter of delicious Serrano ham. (Vegetable risotto, lamb chops, excellent Vivanco Crianza and Vivanco Reserva wine, etc.) (80 euros)
Drove to Elciego to look at the outside of a Gehry-designed hotel, Marques de Riscal, operated by Starwood. (http://www.starwoodhotels.com/luxury...ropertyID=1539
Drove to Laguardia, a charming walled village, and walked around, had coffee and watched a clock with 3 people who come out and dance at certain times (a few minutes before the stated times).
Saw the Calatrava-designed Ysios vineyard as well as other nice scenery on the drive to Haro. Relaxed in the plaza at Haro, which bills itself as the capital of Haro though it is much more of a working class city than more touristy places like Laguardia.
Drove back to Bilbao, which turned out to be very busy with no parking spaces to be had, so we parked in the hotel garage with considerable difficulty.
Went up to the roof of our hotel to look at view of Guggenheim.
Walked over to the Poza area a few blocks from our hotel and had excellent tapas (ham, anchovies, etc.) at Restaurante Busterri (Licenciado Poza N-43) (33 euros).
Drove to airport to pick up our 26-year old daughter and her boyfriend. Airport is only a few minutes drive from the hotel, via a toll tunnel (the city sits just south of a range of mountains).
Friday, September 4
Had breakfast at the same nearby bar.
Drove over to Guggenheim so our daughter and her boyfriend could walk around it from the outside and buy posters for their apartment.
Drove to San Sebastian and found our hotel, Hotel Record. (88 euros double, 72 single, including free parking in a small lot that can require some juggling to get out of; Calzada Vieja 35). We had chosen it by default, because no other hotel for less than 200 euros in a location we liked was available. San Sebastian is the only place on the trip where we had difficulties finding available hotels a few months before the trip. The four TripAdvisor reviews were accurate, I think—very simple but cute building, more like a house, in a location that involves somewhat of a walk to the old city but much of it can be along the surfer (Zurriola) beach, and very close to the Gros area that includes some of the best tapas (Pinxtos) bars. The walls are very thin and the bathrooms modest, but the people are very nice and helpful. We knew what to expect and were fine with that, and we liked it.
We took a walk along Zurriola Beach and over to the old city. We went into a modern shopping center which is apparently the site of an old market. The market (Mercado de la Bretxa) has been rebuilt on the lower level of the shopping center and has a wide range of food stalls.
We then walked around the old city and ended up getting lunch at La Cepa, 31 de Augusto 7 where we had 5 menus of the day (paella and veal, and a selection of 5 different desserts for the table).
After going back to the hotel to rest for a while and to avoid the rain, we took a long walk across the city through the shopping district and along the beautiful Concha Beach, ending up at Miramar (the queen’s house that attracted so many people to come to San Sebastian in the summer), where we avoided a downpour by sitting on a covered porch (this was the only day of the trip that rain was an issue). As we walked along the beach, we saw a group of young people doing training, perhaps for crew racing that we saw on Sunday.
Walked back to the old city and did Pinxtos hopping. Asado Ganbara, San Jeronimo 21, was particularly good, including a fabulous plate of a variety of mushrooms. The kids really got into ordering Pinxtos at a very popular place on Fermin Calbeton.
Saturday, September 5
Croissants and coffee at a bar a few blocks from the hotel.
Drove to the French Basque country, inadvertently ending up driving through Hendaye (which seems to have a nice beach), along the Corniche Basque (pretty) and into St. Jean-de-Luz, which looks like it would be a nice French beach city, and then to several cute French Basque villages (all of which were full of mostly French tourists for the weekend). We first drove through Ascain to Sare, which is a pretty town in a nice setting. We had a nice lunch outside under plane trees at the Hotel Arraya, which seems like a lovely place. (Roule de Saumon Fume, salade morue, cuisse de lapin, filet de truites, noix de veau). 108 euros for 5 people. We then picked up two delicious Gateaux de Basque at a stand next to the restaurant.
We then drove through Ainhoa and up a steep dirt road to the Chapelle de Notre-Dame d’Aubepine, following signs to oratoire. Beautiful views of the town below, the Atlantic Ocean in the distance, and mountains all around. I napped in the car and others walked up even farther—the kids to the top of the mountain (too steep for my wife).
Then drove to Espelette, which specializes in red peppers, which are hanging from many buildings.
Had hoped to stop in Hondarribia on the way back to San Sebastian, but it turned out to be mobbed with people, and no parking spaces were available for miles. We drove beyond the town and took pictures down to the water and then had beautiful views of sundown on the rugged coast from the GI 3440 road (the closest to the ocean from Hondarribia to Pasai Donibane close to San Sebastian).
Drove back to hotel and walked over to Alona Berri Bar, Bermingham 24, in the Gros area, which had very creative, delicious Pinxtos. 83 euros for 5 people, mostly 3-4 euros per tapas. We had txirristra, equilibrio, delicias ulia, milhojas, croqueta, entgrecot de atun, lechera, pimiento relleno, brocheta rape, foie manzana, bastela, carrillera, and mango. Splitting everything 5 ways so we would all taste them was quite a challenge that the proprietors will probably long remember. Highly recommended. (Also had the advantage of discouraging smoking.)
http://www.alonaberri.com/index2.html
Sunday, September 6
We walked over to do laundry at a laundromat.
Many bars were not open even at 9:30, but walked over to one bakery that was open for breakfast.
With some juggling, got car out, and drove to base of Monte Igeldo funicular. Took funicular to the top, and it turned out to be mobbed with people looking down at the water to root for one crew team or another in a big race. Beautiful views of the pretty beach, Monte Urgull at the other end of the beach, Isla Santa Clara, the city of San Sebastian, the mountains beyond, and the rocky coast to the west. Kiddie amusement park rides on the top also.
Took funicular down and drove on E70 to Zarautz exit to Getaria. We parked up the hill and walked down near an interesting modern building that we subsequently learned will be part of a museum about the fashion designer Balenciaga. We walked through the historic town to the waterfront and had a delicious lunch of various types of grilled fish sitting outside overlooking the water at Asador Mayflower (118 euros).
Continued along coast road to the west, with beautiful viewpoints at various places interspersed with beach towns.
We were trying to continue through Lekeitio to Gernika, etc., but as we approached Lekeitio policemen told us that the road was closed (apparently due to some sort of festival) and that we would have to make our way to Bilbao on another route. The road signs were hopeless, but fortunately we had GPS on a Blackberry, which enabled us to figure out a route that got us to the road to Muntibar. Once we found the route, this turned out to be a very pretty mountain road, which looked to be able to get us to Bilbao via a viewpoint at Balcon de Bizkaia. However, when we reached Muntibar, a sign made it appear that the road to the Balcon would be blocked and therefore was potentially a dead end. We decided to try it anyway, and it did lead to a place with beautiful mountain views. However, the road was blocked shortly after the Balcon, so we backtracked and drove by way of Bolibar and Durango.
Found the gas station that the rental agency said would be open on Sunday, as we expected to be returning the car early the next morning.
Drove back to Abba Parque Hotel in Bilbao (after finding a parking space on the street). In attempting to check in for the flight from Bilbao to Barcelona the next morning, I discovered that the cheap tickets I had bought months ago were for the wrong date. Buying new tickets for the next day would be very expensive. AutoEurope was very accommodating and allowed us to keep the car and drop it off in Barcelona when we planned to drop off the car we were going to pick up in Barcelona, for a lower rate than for the planned 2 separate cars, so we decided to drive across to Catalonia after all (we had considered and eventually dismissed this option when planning the trip a number of months ago, although it had been a close call).
Our daughter and her boyfriend went scouting for a restaurant (most places were closed on Sunday). They decided what they really felt like was Chinese food (which they don’t get in Brussels, where they live), and they found Restaurante China City, Licenciado Poza 34. Some dishes were okay and some not so good. 42 euros.
Monday, September 7
Woke up very early, drove our daughter and her boyfriend to airport, and then headed on the long drive to Vic. Road is pretty through the mountains until getting to La Rioja, and then nice views of the mountains to the north, but after that not very interesting until views of Montserrat mountain to the south.
Found Parador Vic-Sau a few km to the north of Vic without difficulty. A very nice facility with beautiful views of a reservoir surrounded by rocky hills. We were upgraded to rooms with reservoir views. (130 euros for double with 55+ discount; 90 euros for single with under 25 discount; including excellent buffet breakfast.)
Had a good lunch in the Parador dining room (68 euros). (hake, sausage, etc.)
Relaxed at the pool for a little while (water quite cool).
Drove on pretty road to Girona, which is a bustling, attractive city with narrow medieval streets along a river. Wandered through the streets, including the Jewish quarter.
Decided to go back to hotel and see what we could eat at the bar. Ended up eating outside, enjoying the view, with delicious ham and manchego cheese from the bar, 36 euros. Talked with nice couple from England who said this is their favorite parador.
Tuesday, September 8
Woke up to beautiful views of the reservoir partially fogged in. Then cleared up for another beautiful day.
After buffet breakfast, we drove into Vic, which was having a busy market day in the central square.
Drove by way of Ripoll to Camprodon (where rich people from Barcelona have second homes). Drove some distance up the road towards Volter 2000 (pretty but not all that exciting).
Drove back to Camprodon and then on an extraordinarily narrow but scenic road to Beget. Somewhat scary—felt had to honk before each turn, because the road was clearly not wide enough for 2 cars to be side by side. Nice views of multiple layers of mountains. Beget itself is a very small, cute stone town that feels very isolated.
Drove back south to Sant Joan de les Abadesses and east on GI 52w1 to Coll de Coubet and Olot. Nice mountain views.
Drove below Castelfollilt de la Roca, which is strikingly built on top of a basalt precipice.
Drove into Besalu, a medieval village with a striking bridge, on which some sort of music festival was underway. Had lunch in a café on the main square, and then walked around for a little while.
Drove into Figueres, where we found our Hotel Pirineos, good location within walking distance of Dali museum, inexpensive parking (4 euros) in open lot (somewhat more in garage), rooms okay but quite basic. (63 euros for double, 54 for single)
Walked over to Theatre-Museu Dali (11 euros per person), wild on outside and inside with many eggs on roof, painting of Abe Lincoln that shows a nude woman when viewed by telescope (and in photograph) but not in person, various devices that move if you put a coin in them (Dali was very good at promotion and revenue generating).
Had a luxurious, interesting, but expensive dinner “of the region” at Hotel Emporda, Av. Salvador Dali 170 (141 euros). Melon soup, cod, cepes with onion compote, seafood croquette, roast pigeon in red wine, stuffed apple, cake, ice cream with mint.
Definitely not lively at night like much of Spain.
Wednesday, September 9
Had continental breakfast around the corner from hotel.
Drove on beautiful but somewhat difficult road (narrow) into Cadaques.
Parked near the entrance and walked through the town to the Mediterranean. Beautiful (though touristy) whitewashed town with narrow streets and great views of the harbor, particularly from the plaza in front of the Santa Maria church. Hard to find the tourist office, which was marked at several places on maps on the street—turns out to be down at the harbor.
At recommendation of Cadaques tourist office, drove to see outside of nearby Casa Museo Dali and then to beautiful viewpoint at the Cap de Creus lighthouse. Relaxed with coffee on plaza (5 euros).
Drove to Empuries Greek and Roman ruins (3 euros per person) and walked around—nice seafront setting and mosaics.
At suggestion of the English couple we met at the Parador in Vic-Sau, we found the Aiguablava beach below the Parador Aiguablava and went to the non-parador restaurant on the beach. Beautiful cove type beach that we could see from the restaurant. Good fried calamari, and mussels and paella (39 euros). Walked up to parador, which also offers excellent views.
Drove to Barcelona Airport, where we didn’t see any signs to the rental car return but finally found it. Had to call apartment rental agency several times as it took considerably longer than we had anticipated.
Had read in various places that could take railway train directly from airport to The Francia station, which is very near our apartment. However, we later learned that train schedules changed in January, and trains no longer go directly to Francia. We walked onto a train and people seemed to be saying that it was the wrong one, so we go off. It actually was the correct train, but we would not have figured out that we had to get off at Passeig de Gracia and change to a train to Francia, which we had figured out by the time the next train arrived. Transfer worked well, with train for Francia coming at the same platform a few minutes after we got off at Passeig de Gracia.
Apartment (Princesa 2, rented from Habitat) is a few blocks from Francia station. The location is fabulous, in the Born area a couple of blocks from the lively Paseo de Born, and a few blocks along Princesa from a subway station and the Cathedral area of the Bario Gotic, yet it is on a narrow pedestrian street and therefore very quiet. The apartment itself is fine, though with simple furnishing. It is a little unusual in that you can look down on a store through an interior window covered by a drapery, but that does not affect livability of the unit. However, the apartment only has air conditioning in the kitchen/living room, and the cool air does not reach the bedrooms very well. (I don’t know what the situation is with respect to heat.) There are 2 fans in the apartment, although one did not work initially. (2 BR apartment for 600 euros for 4 nights)
(We emailed Habitat, and they replaced the defective fan the next day.) I would rent the apartment again because of its location, but only if I were reconciled to being cool enough with fans at night.
Had very good tapas at an outside table at Celler de la Ribera on Placa de les Olles, a few blocks from the apartment (44 euros). (Goat cheese, mushrooms, etc.)
Thursday, September 10
Picked up breakfast (ham, cheese, freshly baked bread) to eat at the apartment at a small supermarket on Paseo del Borne 17, De tot al born (19 euros, including ham and cheese for multiple days).
Walked to Barri Gotic around Cathedral and surrounding streets and to pretty Placa Reial which has Gaudi-designed lampposts.
Walked over to Palau Guell, an early house designed by Gaudi. Free admission because can only go into basement. Wild roof elements.
Walked up Ramblas past umbrella building through Boquria Market, and up to tourist information office at Placa de Catalunya (long lines, not very forthcoming or all that knowledgeable—insist that train goes directly from airport to Francia, no bathrooms). They told us that we needed to buy tickets for tours of Palau de Musica, so we walked over there to buy tickets for the next day (probably could get English tickets for the same day, but perhaps not in summer according to Rick Steves).
Taxi to Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia (10 euros per person). Walked through with good audioguide (4 euros per person).
Subway to La Bodegueta, Rambla Catalunya 100, for lunch of various tapas (18 euros)
Walked to Gaudi’s Casa Mila (La Pedrera), 10 euros per person. Roof particularly interesting for the wild shapes and views of Sagrada Familia and the phallic high-rise building. Paid extra for the audio guide, but not particularly user friendly or useful.
Walked down Passeig de Gracia to “block of discord,” with houses designed by Gaudi and 2 other architects.
Subway back to apartment.
Walked to Santa Caterina Cuines, delicious, interesting multinational dinner in a large space that is part of the Santa Caterina market. (Chicken curry, Gyoza, pork, etc.) (68 euros)
Friday, September 11
Picked up additional food for breakfast back at the apartment.
We walked over to the Placa de Catalunya for the Bari Gotic walking tour that we had bought tickets for the day before (12 euros per person). The tour was very good.
We walked into the cathedral (free because it was a holiday—commemoration of loss of Catalonian independence) and saw the famous, albeit rather boring Sardana dancing outside the Cathedral.
Walked back to connect with our son and had very good tapas at Lonja de Tapas, Placa del Palau 7, which turned out to be a sister restaurant to Celler de la Ribera. Huevo estrellado, potato tortilla (omelet), tomato, goat cheese, etc.
Walked by Santa Catalina Market and through narrow streets to the Palau Musica Catalana, which is an amazing building designed by Lluís Domènech i Montaner, a contemporary of Gaudi. 12 euros per person, but well worth it. No photos allowed inside. http://images.google.com/images?q=pa...N&hl=en&tab=wi
Walked over to Placa de Catalunya, where it turns out there is an outdoor Tourist Information (TI) booth that had no lines. Somewhat but not totally accurate information re bus to Parc Guell. (TI booth is on east side of Passeig de Gracia, across from main TI, which is at SE corner of the Placa.)
Took bus to Parc Guell, which worked well (lets you off at the eastern entrance). The Gaudi-designed park is amazing, and was full of people enjoying it on this holiday. Had cokes at the café.
Took bus from the bottom of the park and the subway to Barceloneta station, and then walked on promenade along nice beach to view of fish designed by Gehry.
Dinner (seafood paella) at Can Manel (Passeig Joan de Borbo 60-61), 59 euros.
Took bus back to apartment.
Saturday, September 12
Walked along Passeo del Borne and into stark gothic church Santa Maria del Mar. Already cleaning up posters on walls from independence protests the day before.
Went to Museu Picasso, mostly pre-cubist paintings from his time in Barcelona, plus fascinating takeoffs on Velazquez’s Las Meninas., with video that zeroed into each aspect of the painting Picasso reinterpreted and his multiple reinterpretations. (9 euros per person)
Went into the very small synagogue (Associacio Call de Barcelona, 2 euros each)
Went back to apartment to connect with our son. He had heard that hot chocolate was exceptional in Barcelona, but the store that supposedly had it did not sell hot chocolate. They didn’t speak English, but they communicated that we should go to Calle Petritxol, where we found Granja Dulcinea at Petritxol 2 about to close for siesta. But they gave us a small portion to go—extremely thick (like chocolate pudding) and rich (2.70 euros).
Went to Museum of History of Barcelona, which is particularly notable for the Roman ruins under the city that you can walk through.
Had a good tapas lunch at Taller de Tapas, Calle Argeneria 51, 41 euros.
Went to old Born market (whose excavations were purported to be open weekends but wasn’t) and Francia station to try to figure out the situation re trains to airport. The person at the information desk did not speak English and was particularly unhelpful, but a person in the office was helpful.
Walked along harbor past Columbus Monument, and pedestrian bridge to Maremagnum. Walked up Ramblas, through Raval on No de la Rambla to funicular to Montjuic. Very few people up there at this time, but nice views of city including Sagrada Familia. However, despite postcards of it lit up, lights never went on.
Took funicular back down, and subway to Espanya for magic fountains—amazingly crowded, considering it is on many nights of the year.
Had excellent dinner at Sagardi Restaurant, Argenteria 64 (Iberian ham, rape, tuna, duck, truffles, etc.) (119 euros)
Train worked well, and flights home via JFK were uneventful.
Len
Nov 30th, 2009, 01:04 AM
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Very interesting!. For your info, you were in San Sebastian on one of the busiest day of the year, the day when the "traineras" race takes place. Originally, a race among fishermen to find the best banks of fish, now a very popular sport in the Basque and northern coast of Spain. A very big day in San Sebastian (divided into two Sundays, classification and final).
Same for Lekeitio, you probably were there on Goose Day, when different boats compite for breaking the neck of a dead goose hanging from a rope, in the fishing port. It´s less barbaric than it sounds...(more info on my blog http://mugalari.wordpress.com)
Same for Lekeitio, you probably were there on Goose Day, when different boats compite for breaking the neck of a dead goose hanging from a rope, in the fishing port. It´s less barbaric than it sounds...(more info on my blog http://mugalari.wordpress.com)
Nov 30th, 2009, 11:06 PM
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It could just be that it´s a very popular place for pintxos, for a stroll by the sea and to enjoy its beautiful old town. Or most probably, you were there at the height of its festival week, (31 Aug-8 September).
Dec 3rd, 2009, 10:42 PM
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Well, Espelette is well known for the dried peppers, that´s for sure....but many farm houses all over the Basque Country do it as well. And you surely can find them in your country (US?), they sell them in boxes.
Dec 3rd, 2009, 11:57 PM
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Wow. You really saw and did a lot for the number of days you were there. thanks so much for such complete information. We hope to do a very similar trip in 2010. We love Barcelona and the Rioja wine area. We've been to Basque country but didn't really do it justice so intend to spend more time there this time. Your report will help a lot.
Dec 4th, 2009, 09:29 PM
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I know some people think we packed too much in or that we were very busy, but it really didn't seem like that to us. I realize this kind of pace is not for everyone, but I guess that's just the travel style that works for us.
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mikelg
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Oct 4th, 2006 10:00 AM
