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Barcelona, hiking in Pyrenees + which other? (Costa Brava or Mallorca?)

Barcelona, hiking in Pyrenees + which other? (Costa Brava or Mallorca?)

Old Apr 30th, 2017, 03:22 PM
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Barcelona, hiking in Pyrenees + which other? (Costa Brava or Mallorca?)

My husband and I will have just over two weeks in Spain at the end of July/early August this summer (I know, it will be hot and packed, but as a teacher I can only travel when school is out!). My in-laws will be joining us for one week, and the other week we'll have on our own.

They're super outdoorsy, so our week together will be spent hiking in the mid-Pyrenees. My question, however, is what to do with the rest of the time. The current thinking is to spend a few days in Barcelona when we first arrive (will land on Saturday morning on an overnight from Toronto), then the hiking week, then either Costa Brava or Mallorca (Majorca) to relax before heading home. Thoughts?

Day 1 - Leave Toronto in evening for red-eye flight.
Day 2 - Arrive in Barcelona in morning. Explore.
Day 3 - Barcelona
Day 4 - Check out of Barcelona, rent car to head to the Pyrenees.
Days 5-10 - Hiking in the Pyrenees.
Day 11 - Leave Pyrenees. Head to...??? Costa Brava? Mallorca?
Day 17 or 18 - Return to Barcelona.
Day 18 - Fly home.

What we like/what we are looking for: We LOVE the Amalfi coast in Italy, so something similar to that would be amazing - cute small towns to explore, little sheltered beaches, amazing restaurants - lots of culture and character. Once we're done (lazily) exploring and eating delicious food, we want a lovely pool and/or ocean to relax by, with beautiful views. We'd like to spoil ourselves with a bit of luxury, but would like to keep it under 300 Euro/night (under 250E would be better). We also prefer small hotels with lots of character - no big chain resorts or high-rises.

Thoughts so far on each location:

COSTA BRAVA: I'm picturing it as Tuscan hill-towns meet Amalfi coastline - is this remotely accurate? I've looked at staying in Llafrank or Calella de Palafrugell. Found some nice-looking places, and it seems to fit the bill for culture meets relaxation - could day trip into Girona or Begur, and otherwise meander around the coastal villages.

MALLORCA: Cheap one-hour flight from Barcelona. Seems like perhaps prettier beaches than Costa Brava. I've heard it's changing from it's cheap-drunken-package-holiday past (it doesn't have a great rep with my British in-laws, who still picture it as that) and that there are actually lovely towns to explore, but is that as omnipresent and easy as it is in Costa Brava? Is it doable to find that cute little hotel we're looking for that's somewhere quiet and peaceful?

The other option I'd considered, but I think I've eliminated now, is SAN SEBASTIAN. I've heard wonderful things about the pintxos there and that it's a beautiful city beach, but I think we want a bit more small town/relaxation this time. It also saves getting back from the north coast for our flight home from Barcelona. My plan is to save San Sebastian for a future trip taking in Bordeaux, Biarritz, San Sebastian, Bilbao, and Rioja. I always want to do everything, so tentative plans for "next time" help me let go - does this make sense, or should I do San Seb in this trip too or instead of something else on the itinerary? (Also need to come back for Madrid and the south of Spain, but that will be for one day that I'm not travelling in the heat of the summer!)

Thanks in advance for your help!
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Old Apr 30th, 2017, 06:27 PM
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Your time in Barcelona is, IMO, exceedingly short. Your trip, your call, but FWIW, I kept happily busy there for 5 full days.

I haven’t been to Mallorca, but think the Costa Brava might suit your interests nicely. Unfortunately, I also haven’t been to Tuscany, so can’t comment on your analogy. One thing you might want to keep in mind – some of the seaside towns of the Costa Brava are at the end of long, narrow, winding roads. I would have found them a bit more driveable with a larger rental car that would have managed in strong winds a bit more easily than the economy-sized car I was using – OMG, I had to fight to keep that car on the road a few times! I mention this point only to highlight that daytrips from the coast can involve roads that some might find a bit stressful.

If you like amazing restaurants and end up in Tossa del Mar, consider a meal at La Cuina de Can Simon -- awesome!

You might find some useful information in my long, but searchable, trip report. I only spent a couple of nights in the Pyrenees, then on to the Costa Brava, and finally Barcelona.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-catalunya.cfm

BTW, I think your decision to defer San Sebastian on this particular trip makes a lot of sense. JMO.

Hope that helps!
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Old Apr 30th, 2017, 10:12 PM
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Leave San Sebastián and the rest of the beautiful Basque Country for another trip when you can take it all in. End of July will be crowded, and the annual jazz festival goes on, one of the oldest in Europe. Fabulous hiking in and around San Sebastián also, apart from the best food in the world and some of the finest city beaches on the continent. And several small villages nearby with excellent beaches and world class food.

Hiking around San Sebastián:

The Basque Coast around San Sebastián: https://tourism.euskadi.eus/basque-c...id=basquecoast
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Old Apr 30th, 2017, 10:15 PM
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and here are the San Sebastián hiking links: http://www.olivertheworld.com/kids-t...-san-sebastian
https://www.spain-holiday.com/San-Se...resque-pasajes
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Old May 1st, 2017, 07:19 AM
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I can't speak to Mallorca or the beach towns, but more time in Barcelona is definitely worthy of your consideration.
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Old May 1st, 2017, 07:46 AM
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You might have a look at Deia, Mallorca. Expensive but idyllic.
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Old May 1st, 2017, 08:16 AM
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Or, go to Formentera. Get to it via Ibiza.
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Old May 1st, 2017, 08:19 AM
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We spent 5 days in Aigueblava near Begur at the Parador before arriving in Barcelona for a week. We enjoyed the Costa Brava and it's coastline.
. We could walk down to a nice beach or drive to neighboring towns. I have spent a lot of time in Tuscany and see no comparison here. Perhaps Amalfi Coast as it is a beautiful coast but without steep mountains and we had fewer crowds.The driving required concentration but wasn't harrowing. Fabulous seafood of course! We would return there.
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Old May 1st, 2017, 08:29 AM
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Our family spent a week in Mallorca last June and rented a villa just outside Soller. We loved it. It's less than an hour's flight from Barcelona.
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Old May 1st, 2017, 03:00 PM
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The Costa Brava has some beautiful beaches, IMO. And there is a Romanesque monastery up high over the ocean, San Pere de Rodes, which is well worth a visit. It's close to Port de la Selva. And you could also visit the Roman/Greek ruins at Ampuries, very interesting as well. Girona is a LOVELY city, as is Vic, so if you get bored on the beach you would have a lot to do.

I remember Cadaques very fondly from years ago (more than 40!), so I am sure it is nothing like it used to be, but it was then a tiny hidden village where people would routinely see Salvador Dali out and about. (I think his home is now a museum).
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 01:06 PM
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Thanks for all the responses so far!

I'll consider adding some time to Barcelona, but we do tend to prefer countryside holidays. Our usual MO is to spend a few days in the city and then head out to a smaller destination. We find that's enough to see and enjoy a few things and get a taste of the city, while saving some for next time (we don't have to hit "all" the sights, we just choose and enjoy the ones we do). We've done similar itineraries with Paris (off to Chamonix), Florence (with Tuscany), Rome (with Amalfi Coast), Zurich (with Lauterbrunnen), etc. - all fabulous cities I'd love to return to one day. I certainly can't check them off as "done", but it works for us! Personally, I'd cut time from the hiking week, but that's what the in-laws are into so hike we will! (I may just tap out in favour of a spa for a day or two...!)

I think we have decided to cut San Sebastian for this trip for sure - thanks for your feedback on that aspect.

Regarding the two coasts, has anyone been to both Costa Brava and Mallorca that can compare them directly?

kja - thanks for the tips on the roads. Sounds like you've got lots of experience in driving them. I checked out your trip report - what an adventure! I'll definitely check out that restaurant if we end up in the area.

Bedar - both of your suggestions look great, thanks. I'd never heard of Formentera. I suppose that's part of the appeal! I love that the hotels here seem to be small, under-10-rooms kind of places - very much what we're looking for. It seems like the trade might be that it could be a little TOO relaxed - not much for culture/countryside villages to explore. But if we decide we just want toes in sand, this would fit the bill.

HappyTrvlr - are you saying there are fewer crowds in Amalfi or on Costa Brava? Aigueblava does look lovely as well.

historytraveler - Soller does look nice.

lreynold1 - if we end up on Costa Brava, I'll certainly look up those suggestions!
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 03:40 PM
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Fewer crowds when we were in Aigueblava than Amalfi Coast. We were there over the 4th of July time period as I remeber some private fireworks going off.
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Old May 2nd, 2017, 04:04 PM
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My trip was, indeed, an adventure -- and a wonderful one at that! Hope you found some useful info in the report.
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Old May 3rd, 2017, 07:57 AM
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Like you, I'd try to duck out of the hiking at least for a couple of days. That would give your husband some time alone with his parents and you time at a spa, with books, whatever.
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Old May 3rd, 2017, 10:52 AM
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The area called Baix Emporda (Lower Ampurdan) will remind you of Tuscany In fact it calls itself the Spanish Tuscany !
http://www.traveler.es/viajes/al-nat...-ampurdan/3872
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Old Jul 16th, 2017, 02:52 PM
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We ended up booking Mallorca. My husband had a lot of Hyatt points saved up from business travel over the years, so we're staying at the new Hyatt there. It would be pricey otherwise, but as it is, can't beat free! I'll let you know how it ends up being.
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