So,,,While in DBV in 10/07..actually my 2nd day there, I met a guy, an amazing guy, a handsome, kind, caring, guy, who totally knocked my soxs off. I won't go into details, but, suffice it to say, he has pretty much changed my travel plans, if not my life!

He is a business owner in DBV, and for confidentiality reasons, I will just leave it at that.

Obviously, this is presenting some real logistic difficulties. I realized this was the ultimate of the "long distance relationship", but I managed to get a fairly decent, cost-wise, flight to DBV in April, 2008. April in DBV is ideal if you want to avoid crowds, but not ideal, at least that April, for good weather.

But now, I am feeling very relaxed in DBV and feeling quite at home. My little apt. is perfect (not on the web), lol. The weather is not a problem, because on the really bad days, I stay home and paint -- I am a painter, and totally in my element there. This was a short stay -- 10 days

While I was planning my trip for Oct. 08, Julia said she was thinking of going back to DBV too -- so, we spent 4 wonderful days, with the most incredible weather, lots of sun, islands, great food and fun times.She is very lucky that she is a short 2 hour flight from UK to many fab euro desitnations. I was there for 16 days. Actually, extended my stay for an extra week, having to call Boss, airlines, and ultimately paying $250 to change my flights. Well worth it!!

Ok, if I haven't lost you by now, ( you are probably saying, just get on with it already) This is all background for what is to come. It's not earth shattering, it's just what it is.

If you are still hanging in there and not totally bored.... I do promise to contribute some really good information -- I will carry on.

OMG''' I can't believe it. They told me at check in at SEA that my 6:45 pm BA flight to Heathrow has unfortunately been delayed -- what??? a couple hours??? Oh no, 9 F!! hours. You have to be kidding me?! Well to ease the pain, I got a $19 voucher for a meal. Oh, that makes me feel so much better. So, instead of being at the gate by 4:45, I now have to be at the gate by !:00 a.m, Gee, I think I can make that. Flight now at 3:15 a.m This is just crazy. How can I do this!!! Too far from home to go back, too much of a hassle to get out of the airport and .. then where to go?? TG!! I met a lovely lady, who was visiting family in Blaine, WA and returning to Ipswitch, UK. We were now like so simpatico, slowly watching the entire airport shutting down, takng turns watching each other's bags, whle going in search of coffee, water, and sharing a final small little bottle of vino, while watching a dvd on my new little Dell netbook.

After an excruciatingly long boarding process, we were finally on board. Feeling incredibly tired, zombie like really, and kinda nauseous, I was in my window seat with an empty seat between me and the fellow in the aisle seat;. Apparently because the delay was caused by a fuel problem after the London to SEA flight left, and they had to return to Heathrow, they had to get a whole new crew and a 747 jumbo to replace our plane, The result was an old 747, but with more room. The aisle seat guy quickly jumped up and took a bulk head seat after we were airborne, which left me with three seats!! Ah,, stretch out, how do you do that while in your seatbelt?? I managed, I also managed to miss the "drinks and dinner" WTF, that they served at that ungodly hour.

After a few hours sleep!! and watching one movie and reading a bit, and about 1.5 hrs. from London, upon return from the WC, a man in the middle of the bulkhead row, one row to the right of me, where the aisle guy had gone to sit, stood up ubruptly, he kinda spun around, his eyes rolled backwards and he collapsed onto aisle guy!! who sprung up and tried to help the guy to the ground in front of them. FA and fellow passengers rallied around him and for about 15 m. it was uncertain if he was ok or not. They did CPR and called for any docs on board. Evidently not? But after about 30 mn. aisle guy came back to his "aisle seat" quite upset and told me that apparently the man had suffered an epileptic seizure, but was stable.

I will apologize right now for any typos, etc.as I am on a little tiny Dell notebook, which I love and which I will promote later as a super travel choice, ... but at home,,,, not so much.

More tomorrow...

So sorry,, I forgot to mention that this trip was 10/1/09 --10/22/09

Oh - this is great. Really looking forward to the rest. (assume the Cotswold bit is you visiting julia_t?? How neat!)

Yes, my time in UK is with Julia_t, and then on to Croatia!!

Looking forward to the rest of the story.

After going through customs and picking up my suitcase, there was Julia (DJ) waiting for me. It was so good to see her. Unfortunately the 9 hour delay had really cut into my with with J. We drove back to her house (S. Cotswolds) in the dark, so I didn't really have a chance to see much, but I was honestly too tired to appreciate it anyway. After a glass of wine, in J's warm cozy kitchen, it was off to bed.

I slept like a log and awoke to a rather gray day, but no rain. We had a relaxing morning, drinking coffee and catching up. As we set out for the day and after again getting into the wrong side of the car! I began to feel like I was actually in Englad. OMG - look at the amazing views from atop her hill, which extends across the Severn Vale to the Forest of Dean. Wooded hillsides can been seen for miles around. Our first stop is the little town of Bisley. Now this is how I have imagined English country villages in my mind and I am not disappointed, the wells, the horse troughs with beautiful white ducks. I walked up to High Street, snapping photos and just soaking in all the charm. I was practically the only person walking around and just the odd car. It felt truly like stepping back in time. Really like something out of a period movie. I came upon the Bear Inn, with all the gorgeous flowers decorating the outside. The quintessential English Pub!! DJ promised we could come back maybe that evening and have a drink.

From there we went to Stroud. I had read some less than glowing remarks made about Stroud on this forum, but I have to say, I loved it. It is a vibrant place and real blend of old and new. It was once the center of the woolen trade.. most of the mills are now closed, but the creative spirit of the town is still very much alive. I was lucky to be there on a Saturday and could experience the Sat. market. We munched on delicious sausage rolls, sampled very tasty cider and bought a scrumptious looking sticky toffee pudding for our dessert that night. There is a real diversity of places to eat and drink, something to suite a range of tastes and pockets and lots of traditional looking tea shops.

After a quickk stop into DJ's shop, we were off again. We drove up out of the valley over Minchinhampton Common and through Amberley where we stopped at the Black Horse Inn for a glass of wine for me and a pint for DJ. Again, I am totally enjoying just soaking up all this fabulous atmosphere.. we then passed through Pinfarthings, this is more of a hamlet rather than a village as it is pretty small. This is where DJ's father lives and where she grew up. Then down a winding hill call the "W" to Nailsworth.

We continued towards Bath, which was our real destination for the day, stopping at Tipputs Inn on the main road just out of Nailsworth. This used to be an old coaching inn where they used to rest after making that long haul up from the valley.

Warm red wallpaper, chandeliers, red candle holders, exposed stonewalls and bronze statues retain the ambiance of the old former coaching inn, including the boar's head mounted over the old fireplace mantel.

Enjoying this so far!

The friendly welcome at Tipputs is apparently well known in the Five Valleys and the staff could not be more helpful. I enjoyed watching and listening to a group of hunters who had apparently come in for a wee one after a mornings hunt. Oh man, it just does not get any better than this!!

Lunch was a very tasty baked camembert w/herbs, olives, chutney, bread and a small, very fresh, salad. So... on to Bath. By now it was spitting rain, nothing serious and not cold. Parking was a bit of a challenge, but DJ is pro when it comes to parking, or just driving in general.

Because time was an issue, DJ gave me her special self-guided tour, which took me by most of the sites I had wanted to see. Pulteney Bridge and the Weirs, the Abbey, which is just amazing. The face of the turrets on the west front is decorated by ladders with angels ascending and descending from heaven! at the sides are figures of the Twelve Apostles and above the great west window is a respresentation of the Holy Trinity and an angelic choir. There was quite a crowd, so we did not go in. We peeked into the Baths and even sampled a taste of the bath water and, hmmm, ewww,, not good. We walked past the Jane Austin Center and looked down the fashionable Milsom St. The Royal Crescent is as impressive as I had expected. It is composed of 30 houses and apparently has changed very little externally from the time it was built in 1767, and still fronted by the same cobblestones over which carriages would rattle.

The rain had turned from a sprinkle to showers and the wind was picking up, so we picked up our steps and carried on --by Sally Lunn's and back to Pulteney Bridge where we discovered a little place that served cream tea and looked very cozy and inviting. It was,, and the tea and scones were SO good. I think spending a day/night in Bath would be ideal, but even if you onlyl have a few hours, it is still worth a visit.

Back to DJ's where her DD had returned from university with a nasty cold and cough. DJ had put a lamb roast in the oven before we left and now we were enjoying lamb, pita, chopped condiments and sour cream -- yummy. DJ, DD and I sat up sharing a bottle of wine and stories, at the kitchen table until the wee hours. What a wonderful first day in England and such good friends. I am a very lucky lady.

woops - I forgot to mention the sticky toffee pudding for dessert! words cannot describe how incredibly, sensually, delicious this was. I am not kidding and I normally do not eat desserts. DJ has kindly shared her short-cut recipe, which she says is almost as good. This will be my Christmas dinner desert. I also forgot to mention that we did in fact return to the Bear Inn after dinner. If you have seen the movie The Holiday with Cameron Diaz, this is the pub where she goes to meet Jude Law!! well not really, but it is the exact copy of that pub. In fact, this whole area looks like it was from that movie. You know there are those moments when you feel you should just not be allowed to feel this good and this was definitely one of those moments.

I also cannot believe I have failed to mention DJ's two darling twin boys, DA and DB. Talk about cute and just so polite and gracious - can't say that about too many teenage boys I know.

Woke up rather tired, and maybe feeling the results of that last glass of vino, or was it the limoncello from her and DD's trip to Italy in July? DJ, DD and I packed up for our trip to London. DD was going to join us in London for the afternoon before meeting up with a friend and returning to uni.

Before this trip to UK, DJ had sent me a couple of mystery books that take place in the S. Cotswolds and one set practically in her back yard! A Cotswold Killing and A Cotswold Ordeal by Rebecca Tope, the latter being the one set in her area. Along with the books, she very kindly tucked in a map, which she had marked with all the pubs mentioned, little villages, canals and tunnels. As I read, I was able to follow along on the map. The original plan was to spend some time just walking along the canal from Chalford to Frampton Mansell and to the Sapperton Tunnel. Walking in the shoes of the protagonist, Thea and her little dog Hepzibah. In lieu of that, DJ drove me down the Chalford Hill and along the valley on a little road running parallel to the River Frome, through Siccaridge Woods to Frampton Mansell, Sapperton, on to Cirencester and then to Bilbury and the very picturesque Arlington Row -attractive little thatched roof cottages, which were once weaver's homes. Took a ton of photos here and walked along the river where all the ducks seemed to be taking refuge -- maybe from those hunters!??
Because of the time, it was a short visit and then on to LONDON!

Ok, I have to just say here and now, DJ should win some sort of honor or prize or certainly a mention here on Fodors, for driving into and out of London, and on the wrong side of the friggin road!

Well, I'm not sure as to how I'm going to get there, but the Tipputs Inn is now near the top of my list as to places to visit. The sticky toffee pudding was the clincher or was that where you had it? Recipe welcomed.

And, thanks too for the information about Rebecca Tope as I'm always looking for good stories taking place in England.

We decided rather than going straight to our hotel, to park on the South Bank, have some lunch and then do the Eye. After parking, we spotted a place that looked very interesting and after perusing the posted menu, decided to give it a try for lunch. Ping Pong Dim Sum (pingpongdimsum.com). An interesting introduction to London. I had it in my mind that my first meal would be something "English", but now I know, that while in London, you are faced with a whole myriad of ethnic choices, and, well, really, no offense, but I can actually eat pretty darn good fish & chips, meat pies and spotted dick, ha, well maybe not that! ... in Vancouver, a short 45 min. drive from home. So... I tried to look beyond the "expected" and lunch was terrific.

Just a short walk to the Eye from there. I do not usually do heights, ferris wheels and such, but fear not, this is NOT a ferris wheel. It is rather a large gondola type capsules, which do not rock and do have seats in the middle if you want/need to sit down. What it is, is a very good way to get an overall view of London and to get your bearings. The weather was good at this point and I could see for miles. It takes about 45-50 min. and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

DD met her friend and we all hugged and said our goodbyes and then DJ and I headed to our hotel. Travelodge Covent Garden. We found a parking spot directly across the street from the hotel and felt blessed, lol. There is free parking spots in the hotel parking garage, but just to unload our bags, this was perfect. Dragging our bags up the steps, checking in and then being quite pleased with our respective rooms at 29L !! was such a relief.

We then walked back to the car to park in the garage and OMG what is that on the window -- a parking ticket!! how can that be. And to make matters worse, it was for 180 pds. Poor DJ was having a mini meltdown and I don't blame her. Driving into London was exhausting, it had been a long day and now this!! We took photos of the sign that clearly said "Loading/Unloading Zone", pics of my watch that showed we had only been there just long enough to unload and check in. As we were walking back to the hotel, we spotted the dasterdly parking ticket guy. Trying to sound very under control and calm, we explained to him how we were under the impression that "loading/unloading zone" under most circumstances, in front of a hotel, means that you can unload your luggage and so, what's the F'in problem. Well according to him, it meant, trucks unloading their wares, but she could contest the ticket and he wished her luck?!

Trying not to let this ruin our day, we went back to our rooms and had a little rest before going out for the evening. A short walk brought us to Covent Garden. The weather was cold, a little rainy and feeling a little tired, we did not spend too much time there and went on a walk around the area perhaps in search of a good place to eat dinner. We discovered a very nice, welcoming corner pub where we popped in for a nice relaxing glass of wine. I was still struggling with that feeling of obligation of having that "English" meal, but instead decided on a really great, I kid you not, a South Western place. DJ, please jump in here if you remember the name, but it actually turned out quite well. I had really luscious lamb medallions and roasted vegetables. The ambiance was good, attentive waiter, good wine, and not very $$. Back to the hotel for a well deserved sleep.

If I haven't lost you by now, more to come ...

history, we bought the sticky pudding in Stroud and then had it for dessert at DJ's house. I am not sure about how to get to Tipputs, but maybe DJ can help out there. Are you driving? She can probably give you more of the background history on it as well.

I am somewhat familiar with Nailsworth/Stroud/Bath area so can probably find it. It's just that I don't do much driving in the UK anymore, but we'll see.

I hope there is good news about the parking ticket.

As I mentioned, and I hope DJ will comment here, but I am pretty sure the Tipputs Inn was on the main road to Bath, not too far from Nailsworth. I hope you can find it, it is very sweet.

Last word re the ticket was that DJ was appealing, but it looks like, unfortunately, it will be 60 pounds.

Enjoying your report...

This is fabulous, and how lovely that you were able to spend time with julia_t! We enjoyed a nice dinner with her at a little pub in Selsley a couple of years ago.

Lee Ann

I am really enjoying all the details about the Cotswolds, where I hope to spend some time next summer. Thanks for sharing.

Well, I'm really enjoying your trip report Barb! It's amazing how much detail you remembered considering how tired you were. But we did have a good time.

historytraveler, Tipputs Inn is on the A46 which is the main road running south to Bath. It is a mile or so above Nailsworth, on the right if you are heading for Bath.

http://www.food-club.com/tipputs.htm

Lee Ann, yes that was a nice evening we had when you and Mr Pickle were staying in this relatively undiscovered part of the Cotswolds. I still remember the rainbow!

Nikki - if you find yourself in this part of the Cotswolds next summer, and would like to meet, let me know.

Thanks for a wonderful read. I've had Cotswalds on my list for a while and this is pushing it higher. Can't wait to get to Dubrovnik. I think I know the commercial for Croatia ("the Mediterranean as it once was"?) that got you there. They still have it and I watch it every time. It's so beautiful and I love the music.

Interesting report, thanks.

I think your friend will be unlucky in her appeal; loading zones are for commercial vehicles unloading to businesses - delivery trucks etc. We have a loading zone outside our offices but we can't use it as we only have cars - the fact that we are delivering/picking up papers to the office doesn't matter. They are for lorries/vans only.

Hotels have to provide their own privately owned parking if they want it.

I can see why you may have been confused though...

Yes, I do expect to have to pay up, but felt it worth appealing. The sign was a little misleading IMO, it stated Sundays, loading only, 40 minutes. We were barely 10 minutes checking in and finding our where the hotel's private underground garage was located (it is not signed at all) and I really didn't expect an enforcement officer to be around on a Sunday evening. He said he issued the ticket as he saw no actual unloading taking place, and many people abuse the parking there.

Oh well, I think I was a bit unlucky, but it could have been worse - at least the car wasn't clamped or towed away!

Yeaaa, I have been waiting for this report. I am so glad you loved the Cotswalds too. It is like visiting a storybook.

I can't wait to read more. Thanks for sharing with us.

OK Julia, it's a date.

JulieVikmanis: Yes, I am sure that is the same commercial. I just sat and stared, practically drooling, at it. I stored it away in the back of my brain and, when planning a special b'day present for myself, the vision of those gorgeous blue waters and the music came rushing forth. I think it was meant to be...

We were up and out fairly early as we had a lot to cover in a short period of time. After a quick breakfast of toast and capuccino across the street from the hotel, we headed back to Covent Garden. There were lots of tables/stalls set up with antiques of every shape and size. We strolled through there for awhile and then headed to the Tube for a short ride to Leichester Square. The goal was to see London's famous squares. It was sprinkling a little, but not bad at this point. From there we boarded a bus, the next stop being Trafalgar Sq. I was pleased to see a small crowd around the "4th plinth" a young woman who was busily crotcheting, or kitting something, somewhat oblivious to what is turning into a rainy day. I am not really totally sure what this is all about, but the Fourth Plinth in Traf. Sq., (square block at the base of a column, or pedestal),was originally intended for an equestrian statue, but has been empty for many years and is now the location for specially commissioned artwork. The ‘fourth plinth’ was sculptor Anthony Gormley’s latest project, in which he randomly selected a different person for one hour, every hour for 100 days to occupy the empty fourth plinth in Trafalgar Square. The crotceting plinther, Heather, was throwing cards commemorating her one hour of fame with little crotcheted flowers attached from atop her perch. Mine is now in my journal. www.oneandother.co.uk

Back on the bus and on to Piccadilly. We walked around this area a bit and because of the now cold, rainy weather, decided to head back to the hotel, pack up and begin the LONG drive out of London to Gatwick.

DJ had allowed 2 hrs. to get to Gatwick. The traffic was heavy and getting out of London proved to be taking longer than planned. TG! DJ did not tell me how worried she was getting that we might not make it because I would have been freaking out!! After a wrong turn into the parking lot, we were on the shuttle bus taking deep breaths, "We Made It!!" Check in for our Easyjet flight was, ha, easy. We picked up some sandwiches, crisps and a "screw top" bottle of wine for our lunch on the plane. We managed to pick up a couple small plastic cups that were being used at a demo table for our wine. DJ scurried ahead of me to get us a good seat and soon we were settled in and eating our lunch and had just poured our little glasses of wine - when they announced that bringing any alcohol aboard for consumption during the flight was prohibited. Oh no... our bottle was then quickly put into the sandwich bag and we looked like two old winos, pouring out of the bag. We didn't care, it was SO nice to just be on the plane, relaxing and feeling a little naughty.

In hindsight, trying to fit in a trip to London was probably crazy, and due to the time constraint and bad weather, I felt a little overwhelmed there. I am sure I will be back with much more time to spend to give it a fair chance.

Because it was dark when we flew over Dubrovnik, I wasn't able to enjoy that stunning first glimpse. The airport has really been going through some changes -for the better -- expanded and much nicer baggage claim. Nino our driver was waiting for us with a small van with a few other people he was collecting. It was like stepping back into summer, a soft, warm, fragrant sea breeze welcomed us. I think the night time view of Dubrovnik is every bit as breathtaking as in the day! with the city lite up with that glorious warm glow. Nino had arranged for a man with a cart at the Ploce Gate to help us get our bags to our apts. DJ's apt. was just steps away from mine. Usually the main street door to my apt. is always open, or at least not locked, but now it was. I had emailed V, the owner, to let him know when I would be there, so I was a little surprised. The cart guy tried punching a few of the intercom buttons, but nothing. Pretty soon another guy walking by and joined us in trying to get V. When we finally reached him, he came down and to our surprise he knew the guys helping us - they were like good old friends! Anyway, I had lots of strong arms to haul "big boy" up the one flight of stairs to my "home". After DJ and I got settled in, with heart pounding and butterflies in my stomach we set out to meet my guy (DG). It had been a whole year since I had seen him, even though we talk every Sat. morning. All those stupid, insecure things were going around in my mind... what if he thinks I"m too fat, what if he hates my new hair do, what if he hates my shoes, what if.... but the minute we saw each other, all that nonsense just melted away. We had a great dinner, but to tell you the truth, I have no idea what I had and in fact, I really don't remember too much else about that evening and, hmmm didn't write in my journal before bedtime, wink wink. All the bad travel memories vanished as I could slowly begin to feel myself slowly relax into life there and blessedly picking up where I left off.

Continuing on -- Tues. 10/6

The plan had been to get up early and take the bus to Lapad and Baba Kuk, which we did, just real eary, lol. Bus 4 took us to the Palace Hotel and a path took us from there through some nice shady gardens to the beach. There is a naturalist beach just a little north and I guess south? towards Gruz is the Copacabana Beach. Love, love this beach! It was so incredibly laid back and relaxing there. We sat at an outdoor cafe and had lunch. Watching the swimmers and sunbathers convinced me that I had to come back soon with a bathing suit and probably some swim shoes as the beach was pebbly and hard to walk on in bare feet, well for this tender foot at least. The weather was glorious. Bright blue skies, and about 80. What a relief from the cold, damp weather in London. Gee do you think that's maybe why so many Brits come to Dubrovnik? After deciding to tear ourselves away from there, we walked along the path which eventually led to the Dubrovnik Yacht Club and then back to the main road and Gruz. We hopped back on the #4 and rode back to Old Town.

Julia was having some real issues with her foot, plantars fascietis (sp) and her ankle was quite swollen as well. So we took it pretty easy for the rest of the afternoon.

oops, that should be "which we did, just not real early, lol"
Trying to do this at work between projects.

That evening we had arranged to meet some friends I had met last year and who live in Bristol, for dinner. They have been going to Dubrovnik every October for many years. My DG joined us and we had a wonderful evening. Dinner was at Rosarij, my favorite resto in Dubrovnik. It is tucked away at the end of Prijeko, which is the street with all the rather touristy restos. This is a hidden gem! The freshest seafood, OMG. It has received good comments on TA. I had, grilled sea bass with swiss chard and potatoes and DJ and I shared a mixed salad and a 1/2 ltr of the house white wine, which is very good and I believe from Korcula. DJ's foot was really swollen and quite sore even after DG's kind massage. After a really fun evening, we all said our goodnights. Thankfully our walk back to my place is short and we were back in each other's arms, like I had never left.

woops-- after rereading my notes, I noticed that I did not have grilled fish -- not that it matters, ha., but it was rather interesting because we were served a little sampling of steak tartar, just to try because the owner had made it just that evening and he wanted us to try it. I have NEVER eaten raw hamburger -- think e-coli!! But, I have to say, it was wonderful. We also shared some delicious grilled calamari.

Wed. 10/7:

We took the 1B bus to Gruz to check out the ferry schedule to Lopud, but the times just did not work out, so we walked through the Farmer's Market in Gruz. It was quite large with many varieties of veg and fruit and the seafood, well what can I say, fresh, fresh, smelled like the sea. Every shape and size was displayed. Most looked very foreign to me, I live on the West Coast in a fishing town with BIG fish ha. I did not see too many tourists here, mostly locals filling their shopping bags for dinner that evening I suspect.

I had packed a small bag with swimsuit and towel in anticipation of maybe spending the day on Lopud, but since there was a change of plans, we decided to take the local bus back to Old Town and then take the bus to Mlini and maybe find a nice beach for a swim there. We jumped on the bus and no sooner had it pulled away when I realized I had left my beach bag sitting on the bench at the bus stop. By the time the bus came to the next stop, I was quite a ways from there, so I quickly ran ahead, fully expecting to see the bag gone. But, there it was... and as it turned out it was a blessing in disguise because, right across the street from that bench was the bus station for all the local buses and one that said Cavtat, so I thought that it probably would be the one to take us to Mlini too and,, it was!!

DJ and I both fell in love with Mlini. We walked from the main road down to the beach and then walked along the water past small sandy beaches and to Srebreno where we stopped and had a glass of wine at a lovely cafe right on the water. It was just amazingly beautiful, quiet and serene. On our way back to Mlini we passed an inviting looking place "Bistro Caffe "G". It was on one side of the road and on the beach side was a shady terrace with nice comfy chairs. Lunch was very good - antipasta platter for DJ and grilled chicken, grilled vegs and fries for me -- SO good.

There was a really nice little cove/beach with sand! which is hard to come by in Croatia, right below the terrace. But,, by the time we ate and shared a 1/2 ltr. of vino, we decided to just sit on the terrace and have tea/latte and save a swim for another day. We were quickly getting into the "sit back and take a deep breath" mode. We both decided that we could have stayed there all day -- maybe even live there, ha. It was truly one of those Ah Ha moments and we both felt it. We decided to take the boat back to Dubrovnik at 4:00, I think to maybe just prolong that wonderful feeling that was going on. We were the only ones on the boat and, if I ever figure out how to do photos on here, I have a couple that will give you an idea of how we were feeling that afternoon.

And, very fitting to the mind set, we headed straight to the Buza Bar to watch the sunset. Well, it wasn't quite as relaxing as that terrace in Mlini, but it is pretty darn close, listening to the oldies music, warm adriatic breeze, and watching that magnificant sun sink into the sea. This was such a good day!!

Hence, my thread "Buza Bar Alert" for those who didn't see it.

Ha, well I feel like I am talking to myself, but that's ok, some of the emails I'm receiving are encouraging me to continue, so I will, for them and, because this is helping me relive the memories and, in the process, I hope I am sharing some useful information.

Barb, you're not talking to yourself at all. Great, unique report. I have been following--haven't commented earlier because a trip to Croatia (though oft-contemplated) is not in my near future.

Looking forward to more! And yes to photos, please.

You are certainly not just talking to yourself. I did want to say that we were just in Dubrovnik for the first time this past May/June and fell in love with it too. Eager to return.It is a bit of paradise. More please.

Yes, I'm reading too. Just back from Croatia, and we may have to return soon. So I'm making a note of Mlini.

Thanks Leely, History and Mimar for hanging in there with me. Trip reports are hard work and it's always nice to know that someone is appreciating it.

So, continuing,,, DJ and I decide to split up for dinner that night. That's what is so great about traveling with someone you can honestly communicate with. She and I are good travel buds now.

DG and I decide to try Proto for dinner. I think it is one of the better restos in town, a little more $$ than Rosarij, but worth the splurge. It is a warm evening, so we decide to eat at one of the small streetside tables. I had a small grouper, just the right size for me and the usual side of chard and spud, lol. We share a very fresh salad, which reminded me of all those wonderful vegs at the market, and here they were artfully composed on our plate. Most restos dress their salads with a light vinegarette w/o asking you if this ok. No listing off all the salad dressings ever made, like they do here. lol. Creme caramel was the perfect finale to a luscious dinner.

After dinner we leisurely strolled the Stradun, taking in all the atmosphere, music lilting out of windows, and wonderful aromas wafting down the small alleyways, luring people to investigate. Every moment with my dear sweet guy is a gift and I can't believe I am so blessed.

Thurs. 10/8:

It was agreed that we would all meet at 11:00 at the Buza Gate and then we were heading north but I was actually not sure exactly where. DG speaks fairly good English, but sometimes, details are lost in translation, lol. I was a little late, and literally had to run up the steps leading up from Stradun to the Buza Gate, TG for all that pre-trip hill/stair climbing prep at home!! And... OMG, it was hot!!

There was DJ and DG, waiting, not so patiently for me. After I jumped into his car and we were heading north out of town, they told me we wer

Sorry, hit the wrong, "little" key on this very small keyboard, and, it submitted,

So,, they told me were going on a picnic and DG had put together this wonderful lunch. We drove past Zaton, up the coast, past stunning views, and suddenly, DG remembered that he had forgotten something for our picnic and pulled over to the side of the road and jumped out of the car. DJ and I were wondering where he had gone, and then, he was back, with two lemons he had picked off someone's tree -- for our fresh, fresh, Ston oysters! Shortly past the turn off to Ston, we turned down a very steep, windy road, down to the sea. We parked and then we were walking along either a "jeep" path, or maybe a "sheep" path, ha, again the lost in translation issue.

Most of the beaches along the S. Dalmatian coast are rocky and pebbly. We came upon a beach with some large smooth rocks, actually one that looked like a bench and we settled in there. DG made a sorta lean-to with some beach wood and some of our outer shirts for the top and shade. There was a small spot under the lean-to where, very fair skinned, DJ could sit and get out of the very hot sun. DG unfolded our unbelievable lunch --- the freshest of Ston oysters, bread, cheese, ham, (dalmatian proscuitto) tomatoes from his garden, w/sea salt!! .. a ripe melon and a special bottle of Korcula white vino, ..with lots of mineral water. OMG!! This is SO, off the tourist map, so incredibly awesome, and so F...HOT!! We slurped and savored the 2 doz. oysters with VERY fresh, off the tree, lemons, throwing our shells into the sea. Lots of laughs and then DJ and DG, talking me into going into the water, sans swimsuit!!! Ok, I did not know this was going to be a beach picnic. So.. after much encouragement from DJ and hand holding from DG, I managed to somewhat maintain my dignity, and swim in that welcoming, cool, refreshing, clear blue Adriatic water.

Oh, no, I do remember reading about seaurchins-- no, not you DSeaUrchin.. but the real thing!

Oh, that was such an incredible day!

Dream vacation!

Ahhhh! A bit of nature...au natural. Excellent!

So.. as I am trying to graceful climb up the rocks to get out of the water, sucking in my stomach, ha, I must have stepped on a seaurchin because I got a spine in the bottom of my big toe! and DG also got a few spines in a more painful area than a big toe! Yikes.

On our way back to DBV, we stopped at one of my fav restos, Orsan, in Zaton, and DG ordered a really wonderful bottle of white wine. This place is the epitome of relaxation and calm beauty. The water is literally lapping just a few feet away. We ate here last year and I can say the food is top notch. Great way to end a perfect afternoon -- except for the seaurchin spines.

Back home to freshen up and then DJ and I went to watch the sunset at - you guessed it -- the Buza Bar, we have certainly put a dent in the wine stock, lol. It was spectacular.

We then met fellow Fodorite, Andrew for dinner at Rosarij. It was great to meet him, he's from my neck of the woods, sort of, he's in Oregon, me, Wash. His trip had been wonderful so far and it sounds like he's taken some really great photos. Maybe our paths will cross again some day -- DJ and I shared a scrumptious grilled fish and black risotto, and a lovely bottle of French champagne - compliments of the owner!

Hey, no stepping on SeaUrchins! We bite back! Sometimes.

So glad to hear about your trip, it is making me want to go there myself. I have to see those Buza Bar sunsets while sipping wine, sounds wonderful.

More, please.

Great report Barb, sounds like a holiday made in heaven.

Great to read you met up with Julia, I met Julia (I am sure it is the same one!!) in Paris this year. She is really lovely and I too would love to catch up again with her.

Keep going with the report and try and put some more details about DG into it!!!! (no not those details)

Schnauzer

Hi Barb! I have to admit that I have been curious about your Croatian guy and wondering if you two were still together. I think it's all so incredibly romantic and wonderful! I'm waiting for the part when you tell us that you decide to move to Dubrovnik....

Looking forward to the rest!
Tracy

Hi schnauzer, yes I am the Julia you met in Paris in May!

Next time you come halfway round the globe to Europe please let me know and I'll try to get to meet you somewhere! It would be good to see you again too.

Tracy, how's it all going? My twin boys are almost 17 years old now, can't believe just how fast it all seems to have gone - and I 'abandoned' them at home for 6 nights for this trip! Lots of trust involved, and they didn't let me down, (despite being quite obnoxious a lot of the time when I'm around!). They don't want to travel with me any more unless it's to go snowboarding, surfing or doing something really active - I'm free at last!

Don't get me started on details about DG, I'll never stop and you will be sorry you asked. He's younger than me by a few years, but it all evens out because I am young for my age. He's tall, dark and handsome and I am short and blond, so, we make quite the pair. We are both grandparents!! and we both have a grandson named Luka, well mine actually is Lucas, but I call him Luka and they are both 4. We also each have grandsons who are going to turn 2 in Jan/Feb. So even if there is snow on the roof, there is still a fire in the fireplace, or something like that?! In other words passion is not just for the youth. He speaks some English, I speak a little Croatian, but we are both so comfortable just being with each other, that it just works. He understands English better than he speaks it, so I just talk away and hope he is getting most of it, ha.

He lives about 30 min. south of Dubrovnik, so that is why I stay in town. He owns a business in DBV and works long, hard hours, leaving very early in the morning, so I do not want to be stuck there without a car and having to take the bus into town every day. It works out great as he is with me every night

I am an artist and have been lucky to make some connections there and particularly with a gallery owner who likes my work, so there is always the possibility of being able to market some of the paintings there. That is kind of my goal right now. Retirement is still a ways off, so until then, I will continue going over as often and for as long as I can. Not ideal, but I knew it was not going to be easy.

Well enough of that... to be continued as soon as my next client leaves.

Julia, so far so good. I had an ultrasound today and the babies are both doing really well. One of them was breach during my last ultrasound but has since switched positions so they are now both head-down, which is perfect! I'm 33 weeks today, and they are both right around 4.5 pounds each. My back has been killing me, but the doctor took pity on me and gave me a prescription for something stronger than Tylenol. Otherwise I don't know if I could handle much more!! Thank you for asking. Your boys sound like a lot of fun, and I think its great that they behaved themselves while you were away! Hopefully my girls will be equally as trustworthy.

Barb, what a story! It's like a movie!! Not only did you meet a wonderful guy, but in beautiful Dubrovnik of all places. Good luck with everything, and I am looking forward to the next installment!

Tracy

Boy, good luck with those little girls Tracy. I just can't imagine how uncomfortable you must be. Hang in there, it will be so worth it when you can hold those precious little babies in your arms. Then you can start planning your next trip !!

I will try to get in another installment tonight. Work is always crazy here on Fridays.

Barb,

Your reports are just great! I've read each one, but haven't commented because I'm writing one myself on our recent trip to Turkey You're right, they're hard work, but it's run to relive it through the reports, isn't it?

Yours is a true fairy tale! You sound so happy - and what a beautiful place to fall in love! We've been there only twice but when people ask me about Dubrovnik I simply say that it's heaven on earth. Our dream is to someday get a little place in Cavtat (it's fun to dream, right?).

You've got to be the Buza Bar's best marketing tool - they should be giving you a commission! Can't wait to visit it on our next trip.

Looking forward to your next installment.

Ellen

Yes, please keep going, Barb. Your lovely description of walking the Stradum brought back so many wonderful memories. I can't wait to read about your next adventures...don't know that I would have braved those sea creatures!

As an aside, Tracy, good luck with your babes. DH and I would never have had the courage to travel off-season to Croatia without the support of your earlier report, and of course, Sessa's too. (Although, I'm sure travel is not at the very top of your mind these days.) Many belated thanks to all of you!

--Annie

It is like a fairy tale come true, and I have to keep pinching myself to see if I am just dreaming.

I had my little Luka for the weekend and he kept me pretty busy, but I will try to get the next installment done tonight. BTW, I want a Buza Bar t-shirt!! that's the least they can do for all the free advertising they are getting, right??

It's the very least they can do!

So,,, a huge big sigh, because I just did a big post and I hit the wrong key, and, then, it was gone!! I need to remember to submit before it gets too long. So...

Fri. 10/9:

This is DJ's last day. I was feeling a little sad, but we have had such a good time, I did not dwell on the sadness, but was looking forward to seeing her again next year in DBV or ??

DJ and I had breakfast at Kavana Dubravka, which is just outside the Pile Gate, opposite Nautika. We sat outside on the lovely terrace set overlooking the little bay between the Bokar nd Lovrijenac fortresses. This is a great place to people watch and the food is pretty good, but the service is a tad indifferent and they are a little stingy with the coffee - small cups.

From there we set out to find DJ"s children some really cool things from Dubrovnik. We sent a few emails from Skybar -- my haven in the days to come!! and then discovered a really good little shop with inexpensive jewelry and DJ scored with some great things for her daughters. This shop is, I think, right next door to the Irish Bar. Then on to the Angel shop. This is a wonderful little shop with so many unique, sort of local, finds. Highly!! recommend it.

The Taj Mahal, was calling our names, so this was where we had lunch, between our shopping quests. What can I say, it is SO!! good. We share a cevapi and a dish of veal, smothered in a creamy sauce of kymak and mushrooms and roasted potatoes with lots of that very special bread, (pita with delusions of grandeur, lol).

DJ is meeting Nino our driver, at the Ploce Gate at 6:15, but she suggests a last time at Buza Bar, so after twisting my arm, ha, we managed to find an empty table. It does get pretty crowded around the end of the day with the anticipated sunset. We then decide to do the thread "Buza Bar Alert"

Lots of laughs and, I think not wanting the day to end, I walked with her to Ploce and Nino, waiting with his van with a couple of other people heading off to the airport. As I said, it was a little sad, but I know we will see each other next year.

The Taj Mahal, was calling our names, so this was where we had lunch, between our shopping quests. What can I say, it is SO!! good. We share a cevapi and a dish of veal, smothered in a creamy sauce of kymak and mushrooms and roasted potatoes with lots of that very special bread, (pita with delusions of grandeur, lol).

DJ is meeting Nino our driver, at the Ploce Gate at 6:15, but she suggests a last time at Buza Bar, so after twisting my arm, ha, we managed to find an empty table. It does get pretty crowded around the end of the day with the anticipated sunset. We then decide to do the thread "Buza Bar Alert"

Lots of laughs and, I think not wanting the day to end, I walked with her to Ploce and Nino, waiting with his van with a couple of other people heading off to the airport. As I said, it was a little sad, but I know we will see each other next year.

Then,,, walking down Stradun, after most of the cruisers have gone back to the "Mother Ship", I am reflecting on the good times that DJ and I had. I head home to get ready for dinner with my friends from Bristol.

Why is it my hair is so crazy here?? I bring most of my hair products from home in little 3 0z bottles. What is it, the water, the salt water sea breeze, or just my lack of caring, ha.!!Anyway, whatever, I try to look my best.

We met at Rosarij, which is their fav resto too. We shared a plate of whitebait, or, is it white bait? It is crispy and delicish. I remember the first time I had white bait, in Nice. I thought I was ordering a dish of small white fish, and was quite surprised to see these little slivers of delicate fish with eyes looking up from their plate. Do I eat them whole?? Yes, the waiter tells me after I try to cut their tiny heads off. So,...yes, quite tasty and I don't even notice I've just eaten the whole thing.

So...then we are served big steaming bowls of mussels, shrimp in a delicious, rich broth, with lots of crusty bread to sop it all up.

Just to let you know that the average meal here is 80 to 200 kuno, and you can order a 1/4, 1/2 or 1 ltr. carafe of good local wine.

We decide to meet up again on Sunday for their last dinner.

My DG meets us and we walk my friends to the Pile and their bus back to the President. We walk the deserted streets, holding hands, drinking in the splendor of Dubrovnik at peace.

Sat. 10/10:

Slept in and had a relaxing morning doing a few chores around the apt, washed a few things, which I can hang out my window! and then I decided to treat myself to breakfast out at my favorite cafe on the Stradun, Bistro Dubrava. I had a mushroom omelet, white coffee and fresh squeezed orange juice - 54kuna, a very good value I think. It is a little cloudy, but still humid. I enjoyed watching the people walking Stradun, paying particular attention to clothes and shoes. Lots of fashionable tennis shoes, skinny jeans, tunic tops with leggings and BIG purses, or little bitty purses. The local women, who are so gorgeous and TALL dress a little provocatively, with very tight skirts/jeans and tight, low cut tops and seem to be able to pull it off without looking trampy.

I took the #4 bus to Dubrvonik Palace Hotel in Lapad. It is huge, but rather sterile, no charm or soul. From there I walked down the hill to Uvala beach. It is a very popular beach judging by all the locals there. There is a large playground/park area for children a very big water slide from the beach into the water. The bay is lined with cafes and hotels. I stopped and had a glass of wine across the street from the Villa Wolf. Part of the reason for coming to this area was to find the Peska walk listed in many guide books as a great path up the hill, but it was very hot and I just could not muster up the energy to do it. Sitting next to me was the most attractive Italian couple, maybe in their late 40's. She is blonde and gorgeous, in white linen blouse and pants, impreccable make up, dripping in gold jewelry, manicured nails and looking very regal. He is dark, good looking with dark hair peppered with gray. Lacoste shirt. He touches her hand lightly, but they hardly talk to each other. I tried not to stare, but I just could not take my eyes off this couple. I'm feeling short and frumpy and wishing I had done my nails. But... when they get up to leave, he is about 5'4" and she is about 5'10" and quite plump!! Ha, nothing wrong with that, but just not quite what I expected.

I hopped back on the #4 and headed back Dubrovnik. I decide to just take it easy for the afternoon and head for the resto Poklisar on the water at the old harbor.

woops - impeccable, should have previewed the last post.

Love sitting at Poklisar, there's so much going on at the Harbor. For lunch I had grilled calamari and grilled vegetables, bread and a glass of white wine. I love that I can sit here, nursing my vino and write in my journal, or just read my book. The sun is glorious. I can feel my whole being start to slow down, relax. I really have no plans! When I travel, I am usually rushing about, trying to fit in all the things I want to see and do and here, I just need to allow myself to be in the moment, which is something that I need to work at.

Dinner is grilled fish, lovely fresh salad, crusty bread and good white wine. DG is tired, so we have an early evening.

I woke up in the middle of the night to huge booms -- thunder and lightning that lit up my room. I've been through some bad thunder storms, but this one is a doozy!! and for just a moment I could just imagine how it must have been, living here during the war, with bombs dropping all around and being so frightened. It was impossible to fall back to sleep, so I just huddled under the covers trying to think about pleasant things.

The weather had taken a turn for the worse, so for the next week, it was off and on, rainy, windy, and cold. I went to Bistro Dubrava to read and drink tea, or revisit some of the churches. I paid my usual visit to the Defenders of Dubrovnik Memorial room and to the War Photo Museum. I am not a shopper, but I did a little shopping. Skybar became a haven, emailing, Fodors, or just googling. I started a couple of small paintings, but I guess my heart was just not into it because they were just not coming together.

We met my Bristol friends at Rosarij for their last dinner before going home. We had a real treat - a huge grilled momkfish that we all shared. OMG, it was amazing. I know it is endangered and I should not be eating it, but I've just eaten it once before and probably won't again as we can't get it here at home. It was a real treat.

After the rain and wind finally stopped, I was able to go to Cavtat for an afternoon, which is always fun. DG took me back to Trebinje one afternoon. We went last year - the first time he had been there since the war - 18yrs. ago! and it was a very emotional trip for him. Trebinje is 90% Serbian and until fairly recently not somewhere most Croats wanted to go. I can't say it's a very attractive town, although the streets are fairly wide and tree lined, but beyond that are sort of gray, drab buildings and poverty. There are lots of cafes with large terraces, chairs and umbrellas. The day we were there was cold, and so not much of a cafe scene. I did enjoy a farmer's market, where I noticed lots of rather unusual sorts of vegs and fruits and tobacco sold in big burlap bags. I drooled over a large table full of every kind of mushroom imaginable. It is only an hour's drive from DBV, but what a contrast in beauty and culture. I think if you have a car it is worth the trip, but without a car, I think the bus service is not so great, so it would be a challenge to get there.

On the way home, DG drove up to Mt. Srd. The view is just stunning, no matter how many times I see it, it never fails to take my breath away. After he dropped me off, I walked to the jetty, or breakwater, and sat on a bench and just watched two fisherman emptying their nets with the days catch. The sun was finally shining again and it felt heavenly. I probably sat there for an hour just soaking it all up and savoring every moment. I decide to make hay while the sun shines, so I went to Buza Bar to watch the sunset. The sun and a ship on the horizon were racing - the ship just passed the sun as it sank into the Adriatic.

By now, as much as I love calamari, I had reached my limit. I had them fried, grilled, stuffed, sauteed and in risotto, but I had to stop. As I passed the Gaffe Bar (Iris bar) one day and got a whiff of grilled onions I had to fight the urge to go in and order a big hamburger with all the trimmings.

I was just on seafood overload by the end of my second week. So, it was back to Taj Mahal for cevapi and veal and to Kanoba Adria for a very a tasty schnizel type dish.

I have been lucky enough to be able to celebrate DG's last three birthdays with him. This year, I bought him a big gorgeous chocolate cake at Niko bakery, which we shared with some of his friends for a really nice little birthday party. I gave him a CD which he really liked that I had played for him a few times - Katie Melua. Now every time I talk to him on the phone, he is playing that in the background - ahhhh.

As the end of my trip was nearing I could feel myself starting to feel emotional and dreading the inevitable. The weather was improving, so I was able to get out more and did not feel like I was wasting my precious time indoors. I walked the walls, strolled the streets, went to Lokrum for a few hours and I kept reminding myself that main reason I am there is because of DG, so I just need to be there for him and make every moment we are together special, so that's what I did. I won't share those details with you, lol, but it helped me not to feel so sad about leaving.

The day before I left, DG took me to lunch at a really special family-owned and run resto in Konavle called Konoba Vinica Monkovic. What a lovely, cozy place. We shared a huge plate of grilled meats ..beef, lamb and pork, with grilled vegetables and lots of bread for cleaning up the juices. The resto is situated beside a picturesque churning river. The last few days had turned cold and rainy again, so this place was a pleasant, warm respite from the nasty weather. The Konovale vallely is very green and fertile and probably where most of the local produce is grown and the nearby town of Gruda is charming and worth a visit I think.

As much as I had tried to prepare myself for the last day, it was still so hard. We had decided to say our goodbyes in Dubrovnik and not at the airport. And so, chocking back tears, Nino drove me to the airport and even walked me right up to the checkin desk!!

I was flying Easyjet back to Gatwick. I stayed in Horley, which is just about a 5-8 min drive from the airport. I stayed at the Vulcan Lodge, which I highly recommend. http://vulcan-lodge.com/ Karen Moon is a wonderful hostess and it's just like staying in a good friend's lovely, big house. I was the only guest at the time. Unfortunately, even with all my good planning, I had forgotten to write down the address, but the taxi driver finally found it. I arrived late, around 11:30, so she had sent me the front door code and I let myself in. In the morning, as I sat in the little dining room with a warm fireplace crackling, reading my paper, with her dog and fat cat sitting by my feet, she made me a breakfast, of eggs and toast with homemade jam. When the taxi driver arrived, she helped carry my bags to the car and instructed the driver on how to drop me close to the National Express stop at the airport and show me where to go, which he did.

This was an easy trip back to Heathrow to catch my BA flight to Seattle. From where the bus lets you off, you go up an elevator, if you have luggage, or an escalator, to the 3rd floor to the "drop bag" places. You can only drop your bags three hours before your flight! then you go through a HUGE security area, luckily it did not take long. Then you look at big departure boards for your gate, which don't open until 1 hr. before the flight!! and some gates can take up to 20 min. to get there. I am praying mine will be closer. I had lunch at Huxley's Bar & Kitchen, which was just ok.

Because you can't get seat assignments on BA until 24 hours before flight, and because I was not able to get online in DBV to do that, I had emailed that morning from the Vulcan and unfortunately got a middle seat. I'm worried that it would be my luck to be stuck between two fat smelly men. But I also had hopes of being able to change my seats when I got the gate. But... because it was a full fight, I was stuck, but with a small Asian man in the window seat, who did not utter a word and a sweet older lady on the aisle who was from Tacoma. After a few hours, we were like old friends, which made me feel so much better about maybe falling asleep on her shoulder, drooling, lol. All in all a good flight.

It was a wonderful trip. I am busy planning a possible trip back in the spring and another trip in the fall with my granddaughter, first to Paris for 5-6 days and then Dubrovnik for maybe 7-8 days and then a few days in Amsterdam before heading home.

I am trying to get a Skype schedule set up so at least I can see DG's beautiful face every week.

Thanks for hanging in there with me on this not so typical trip report!

What a great week you had after I'd left, despite the weather.

I'd caught up on some of it with you, but it's nice to see more detail. Maybe we can go out to Konavle when we meet next October, hopefully with your grandaughter and my DD... I wonder if they'll get on with each other as well as you and I do!

Julia, it was a great week and it was nice to be able to relive it through this report.

Absolutely let's go to Konavle. I am looking forward to next October and it will be great if our girls hit it off.

Parking Ticket Update...

After I submitted my initial 'representation' when I returned from Dubrovnik I was told I'd still have to pay as I had not shown evidence I was doing what I said, ie taking luggage into the hotel and finding out where the unmarked private car park was.

So I appealed once more, this time with copies of the invoices for the hotel booking, receipt for the hotel car park, and a covering letter telling them all about my friend from America and her HUGE suitcase that was so big and heavy it two of us to heave into the hotel in the pouring rain... also mentioned in passing it was so heavy she had to pay excess baggage charges on it before the easyjet flight!

I was still expecting to have to pay up, but I just wanted to have a say in my defence, and it's paid off!

They have formally accepted my representations, exercised discretion and have CANCELLED THE PENALTY CHARGE / FINE. Whooppeee!!!

However I have received a bit of a ticking off about parking where I did, and leaving the car unattended.

So point taken, I will take more care in future, and am very thankful.

Wow -- that's wonderful news! But did you have to rub it in about my BIG suitcase?? lol. Hey, whatever it took, that's all that matters. I guess we both learned a lesson.

Wonderful trip report Barb! I haven't been on Fodors in ages (so sad!) and popped in to read this. What a great trip. We need a Buza Bar!