Anyone? The Europe part of this board seems to have far more traffic than the Asia section where I usually share what I know. Surely there must be someone who has some suggestions or answers, please?

Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

PeterN_H,

I have just come across your post. Here's my input:

You are right about the limited guide book situation, but I have found Lonely Planet a reasonable solution.
Apart from that, there are guides for cities in each of the countries in question called "In your pocket" They are published by a Lithuanian corporation (I think) and I keep advocating them for everybody travelling in the region. I have also often recommended their website at "www.inyourpocket.com". They are just outstanding providing lots of great and vital information!

As to hotels in historic buidings:
In Tallinn, there is obviously the Schlössle Hotel and Hotel St. Petersbourg, both operated by the same company. I have not stayed at either but take it that the Schlössle is the more luxurious one. Both are within Old Town and have a good location, though I think that the Schlössle is again out- performing the Petersbourg as the latter is on the corner of a road where there are more cars likely to drive by (cobblestone, so somewhat noisy).

In Pärnu, there is Scandic Ranna Hotell- which is a beautiful functionalist building in Bauhaus style. It is located directly on the beach and offers splendid service and location.

In Riga, Konventa Seta (aka Konventhof) jumps to mind, which is a couple of restored buildings in old town formerly used as a Konvent Yard. It is a three star property under the same management as the more elegant Hotel de Rome (which is not a historic building, though). The rooms are modern with Western style bathrooms but not too much of an antique feel about them. However the hotel is an exellent choice at the prices they charge and has a splendid location.
Furthermore, there is Hotel Gutenbergs close to the Dome, also in Old Town. Then there is top notch Grand Hotel Palace which is also in Old Town and providing two of the better restaurants in town.


I have no experience regarding Lithuania but gather that there are numerous hotels in antique buildings, too.

Hope to have been of some help.
Regards
hsv

You might want to give this one more day...I think you'll get a lot more traffic here during the week than on the weekend.

topping for peter

Many thanks, hsv.

I'm sorry I'd have to disagree with you on the In Your Pocket Web pages, which, while they are vastly better than having nothing at all, are very sketchy indeed. I hope they are better in print than on-line.

I have the Fielding guide to the three Baltic Capitals, which is much better, but clearly change there is very rapid.

In addition to any more interesting hotels, does anyone have anything on the first part of my question, concerning sights and experiences which haven't made it into the guides yet? I have had the Devil's Museum, a tour of a former KGB headquarters, and a bar dedicated to Depeche Mode suggested to me... Any more?

Thanks again,

Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

Peter,
My husband & I will be in Tallinn next month.
If you dont mind...where is that bar dedicated to Depeche Mode?

We went to Tallinn for a 4-5 days last September and loved it. Please feel free to write to me and I can provide information on restaurants and also on our favourite sites.

I've also posted here recently about restaurants, though I can't seem to retrieve the thread on searching.

Of the unexpected sites we loved I'd point out travelling on the trams and also visiting the Kalev chocolate museum.

I have the (long winded) diary entry I made about that day which I can email you to explain.

Kavey

PS I used Bradt Estonia guide plus got a cheap copy of Lonely Planet Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia.

Hi Kavey,
I had found your Tallinn posting previously and found it helpful. I just emailed you with a request for your diary pages - hope you dont mind sharing.
Thanks!

Sent.

On guides: I was in error. It's the Bradt guide to the three capitals that I have. I have to be extremely desperate before I will even consider buying an LP guide.

On Depeche Mode, this is what I was told: Well if you like Depeche Mode, try the Depeche Mode Bar in Tallinn at Nunne 4. Its a tiny underground pub that also acts as a shrine, set up by the Estonian Depeche Mode fan club.

And thank you, Kavey, while I think the chocolate museum is widely covered, I'd be interested in hearing more about it.

Someone has suggested to me that Estonians, not Finns, were the inventors of the sauna. I'm not sure that I have time to go out into the countryside, but I'd be interested to hear if anyone has visited traditional saunas in the countryside, and what the experience was like.

Thanks to everyone for their replies so far.

Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

Peter, diary entry on chocolate museum a little long to post here.
Pls email me and I can email that entry to you for your consideration.

Peter, sorry, had missed your email - it was in junk folder.
Have sent diary entry.

In brief, the museum itself is not a world class museum, in the way we'd usually define it. It's reasonably small, and it doesn't include tours of the actual factory (due to hygiene laws).

But we found the history of Kalev fascinating - it gave us quite an insight into political history in the region - and we found the curator, who gave us a private tour, charming and enthusiastic.

If one were to visit at a busy time, and receive less attention, perhaps it would be a much less memorable experience and if one has no interest in the political history and the old packaging and advertising, it may not be the sight for you.

At any rate it's easy to get to and the shop is great for some unusual gifts - I'd decide depending on how much time you have in Tallin overall.

Peter, I don't think any nationality can claim to be the "inventor" of sauna. Different types of saunas were common just about everywhere before the middle ages. Then the catholic church gained power, and in most places banned saunas as immoral (well, in many places they were just very hot brothels...). Finland just happens to be the place where people were not so obedient, and cherished their saunas through centuries. (The word sauna is Finnish).

Estonian sauna is just like Finnish sauna. After all Estonians and Finns are near relatives, and propably were one nation thousands of years ago. But sauna is not as common in Estonia as in Finland, and to find an access to a traditional wood heated sauna by a lake or sea is not easy since most saunas are private. Your best chances are in some farm house that rents cottages for tourists.

I think hsv gave you a good answer about hotels. I cannot think about anything to add.

Inyourpocket guides are the best ones, and they are up to date.

My thanks to Elina for this enlightenment, and (in case my email of thanks ends up in the junk folder again) to Kavey for the description (via email) of the Kalev Chocolate Museum. As you say, not a major sight, but I quite agree that small, personal experiences such as decribed are often far more memorable than more impersonal visits to the major sights. And anyway, chocolate is one of the major food groups.

On elegant buildings becoming hotels, albeit slightly more modern, I see the Saarinen-designed former French ambassor's residence in Tallinn has now been opened as an hotel. See:

www.guesthouse.ee

On the KGB, other than the visit to the former KGB HQ, I understand that the Hotel Viru in Tallinn has preserved the KGB control room from which foreign guests, conveniently sorted by floor according to nationality, were monitored. It'snot clear whether this is yet open to the public. Has anyone seen it? And are their another other publicly visible signs of former KGB activity? I understand one church was connected to the HQ, and used by the KGB, and that there were (or are?) giant aerials used for jamming Western TV signals?

Has anyone actually stayed at the Sch?ssle, or eaten there?

Has anyone tried the medieval them restaurants (kitsch or not? Food good or not?) or the Estonian specialty restaurants?

Peter N-H
http://members.axion.net/~pnh/China.html

Peter

Glad you got email, no response in Inbox or junk folder, though hotmail can be rather temperamental.

We ate in a number of restaurants in Tallinn, including one of the well regarded Medieval ones. That one didn't rock my boat but others did.

If you want the entire report (which is wordy but is a record of all the sightseeing and restaurants during the trip) just let me know.

PS I personally had quite a penchant for the Kalev chocolate coated marzipan bars.

Hi Peter - I know your name from the numerous postings you have made in the Asia forum. Your advice was instrumental for a very successful trip to China this winter. Thank you.

I have been to Riga four times and think it is a magnificent city. Before I go each year, I consult the 'In Your Pocket' guide (www.inyourpocket.com) to see what's new. You might find some good information on that site.

We stayed at the Hotel Konventa Seta this year and really liked it. We splurged a bit and got a suite, which had views of St Peters. It was magnificent. We also stayed at the Hotel Eurolink, which was more out of necessity since most places were booked. It was a nice surprise though, it was a very convenient, homey place to stay. It is on the third floor of the Hotel Riga which was somewhat bizarre. I believe the Hotel Riga has an interesting history of KGB activity. As for other hotels, I know a lot of the Latvian-Americans like to stay at Radi un Draugi. A friend stayed at Hotel Vecrîga and had many good things to say about it. I will probably try that next year.

As for restaurants, we always go to at least one or two of the Lido restaurants. Yes, they are a chain..but it's a Latvian chain, so I consider it authentic. I really like Staburags and Lido Atpûtas Centrs, as well as Alus Seta for a quick bite to eat. Of course beer drinking is key and there are many varieties to sample.

Sights - I think the Ethnographic Center is very interesting, although a bit difficult to get to. Two important festivals are midsummers night - Jani, and the Song and Dance festival which is held once every five years. We went this year so there won't be another one until 2008. It may sound small, but it is truly amazing to watch thousands of dancers performing folk dances that are centuries old. The choral concert is very close to every Latvian heart and is also of interest. A trip to the Central Market is fun as well. I think all of the other must see sites are listed in the Bradt guide.

I hope I've been somewhat helpful..I see that I've rambled a bit! Good luck on your quest.

Sandra