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Back from Greece!

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Old May 24th, 2004, 12:48 AM
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Back from Greece!

My husband and I came back from our 2-week trip to Greece (Crete, Santorini and Athens) yesterday. We had a very wonderful time and we want to thank all of you who gave us all the useful information, suggestions and tips, all of which we considered, though not all taken.

In general, we think that Greece is a wonderful country. We are really impressed with the friendliness of the people, which is something we will always remember.

We will leave some specific remarks about our trip later.

Thanks again!
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Old May 24th, 2004, 03:11 PM
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I am looking forward to seeing the rest of your report. We will be doing the exact same thing starting Weds. So, I am hoping you can find the time and energy to do it soon!!
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Old May 24th, 2004, 06:38 PM
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Please don't wait too long to report in. I leave on June 12th. I can't wait to hear the specifics. We will be in Athens and Santorini.
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Old May 24th, 2004, 06:39 PM
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Is the National Museum in Athens open yet?
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Old May 25th, 2004, 12:50 AM
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I hope you had a great time! How is Athens? Is it a nightmare like i've been told? Should I worry about getting to the airport at the end of my trip by myself? im an 18 yo solo female traveller. thanks! xo
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Old May 25th, 2004, 01:03 AM
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Hi kattyfever,

I'm not Selina but I could answer your question a little. Getting between the airport and Athens city itself was a breeze using the E95 airport bus. It connects the airport right to Syntagma Square and vice versa (from the very same bus stop as it is a loop service). The busses adhere to the timing perfectly while I was there 2 weeks ago and it costs a mere 2.90 Euros which allowed us to travel on local transportation for 24 hours prior or after your airport bus trip.

The bus is just a regular bus though, so there's limited space for luggage. Do go and queue (or look out for the bus early) so you could jump in, park your luggage at the space in the middle of the bus and find a place to sit. Otherwise hanging on to your luggage while standing the 40mins or so to the airport could be quite a pain...
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Old May 25th, 2004, 06:49 AM
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Selinalei, how was Santorini? Were the ruins of Akrotiri open? I had read somewhere that most were closed for renovation, to be re-opened to the public soon.
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Old May 25th, 2004, 07:54 AM
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That sounds funny, ruins closed for renovation!! (I know you didn't mean it that way, it just struck my funny bone)
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Old May 25th, 2004, 03:02 PM
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Well, It does sound strange. My bad. I should have wrote "closed for repair".

The Hellenic Ministry of Culture - Akrotiri web site states that Akrotiri had been closed to the public due to "labor and improvements of the buildings and cover", to be re-opened in Feb 2004. In a recent thread I read from a traveler that much of the site was still closed to the public. As I am traveling to Santorini in a few days, I am curious re status.

see http://www.culture.gr/2/21/211/21121a/e211ua08.html
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Old May 25th, 2004, 07:01 PM
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Here comes the first part:

GENERAL INFORMATION

We spent two full weeks in Greece: Crete (6 nights), Santorini (5 nights) and Athens (3 nights).

In Crete, we spilt our stay between Hania (3 nights) and Agia Pelagia (3 nights).


HANIA

We arrived in Hania, our first destination, early afternoon with a connecting flight from Athens by Aegean Airline. Took a cab to the Palazzo di Pietro (http://www.palazzodipietro.com), which we booked direct and were guaranteed the best room of that price range. It turned out to be a very friendly family-run traditional lodging located in a small street that is a few minutes? walk to the harbour. The location is convenient (with tavernas, bar, laundry and internet cafés in the same street) but there is no harbour view! At that point, we were not worried with the view because we knew that we would have sea view and caldera view later in our holiday. Our room was beautifully decorated in traditional style, spacious and clean. There were a big basket of fruits and a bottle of raki produced by the owner?s family to welcome us.

We spent some time going around the harbour area for the rest of the day. Had a nice dinner at Taverna ElA, a nicely decorated open-air restaurant, with nice food and good atmosphere, although we were a bit too tired to enjoy anything on that day.

We started the following day with a nice breakfast in a café by the harbour. It?s the first time we tried the local yogurt with honey. It?s delicious! And that?s when we started feeling that we?re really on holiday. We spent the rest of the day going around the town. We also bought tickets for the hike to the famous Samaria Gorge for the next day. Had a nice seafood lunch at ESTIATOPIO by the harbour again. It was actually recommended by a guy in another restaurant who, on that day, didn?t have any seafood for us.

So, the big day came. We set out to the train station early in the morning to take the 7:30 am bus. We?re excited then. We walked slowly right from the beginning as we were warned by a lady the day before that it?s going to be difficult. We saw people walking very quickly but we also saw people looking very tired at the very early stage. We started feeling a bit uneasy a bit after halfway. There were some points that we just wished we could finish it soon but it seemed that the Gorge never ends! After quite some struggle, we finally got out of the Gorge at around 3 pm. Only then did we realize that we still had to walk another 3 km to the ferry! We caught the 4:45 pm ferry, which came late because the sea was very rough. Everyone waiting for the ferry was looking at the very blue sea with the waves coming onshore. It?s beautiful! But the waves were so big that the ferry could not come to the pier and everyone had to walk to another one at the end of the beach where the sea is calm. The ride was OK and we got off with almost everyone to take the bus back to Hania. By the time we got to the station, we could hardly walk down the stairs of the bus and it was 10 pm when we arrived at the Palazzo. Had a quick dinner in a restaurant nearby. Hardly felt much about that dinner.

We departed Hania the following day with our aching muscles. The Palazzo arranged a car for us for the rest of our stay in Crete (110 Euros for 3 days). The guy delivered the car to us and allowed us to drop it at the hotel we stayed in Agia Pelagia. Oh, we were given another bottle of raki by the Palazzo to take away as a souvenir. They are really nice people.
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Old May 25th, 2004, 07:12 PM
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Luv2Travel, I am sorry I am a bit late. I am afraid I will not be able to finish it before you go.

WanderingTexan, as the other post already mentioned, the Museum is not open. We actually didn't check it out because we were happy just to hang around.

Kattyfever, JannaG already gave you the details about the bus. Now, for us, we decided to take a cab. It cost around 30 Euros including luggage. There was not even a single problem for us while we're in Athens. Everything was smooth, including the traffic and the cab drivers!

greecube, the Akrotiri is open to public but many parts are covered. No enterance fee is charged, though. We didn't exactly enjoy it.
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Old May 25th, 2004, 08:03 PM
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Part II:

On the way to Agia Pelagia, where we were going to stay 3 nights, we stopped at the traditional village of Vryses for a lunch. It turned out to be one of the best meals we had. A local in the village pointed us to a restaurant called Dirogro. There were only locals in the restaurant. They looked like someone working in some offices and having their lunch break. We immediately thought that the food must be good. And we were right. An added surprise was the price. We paid 18 Euros for 2 persons for a Greek salad and two main dishes (broad beans and rabbit) with wine, soft drink and coffee. We were very satisfied with our choice and were ready for the rest of the drive.

Got to the Nymphes Luxury Apartments (http://www.nymphes-apts.gr) in Agia Pelagia in the afternoon, after having a short stop at Rethymno. We used it as a base to explore Heraklion and the Palace of Knossos. We were there also because we had to take a hydrofoil to Santorini from Heraklion later. The Apartments are up on a hill and therefore have a great view over the village of Agia Pelagia and the sea. Our apartment was spotless and very comfortable. Here, we had a wonderful view from our terrace, where we sat a lot to recover from our adventure to the Samaria Gorge.

Early next morning, my husband woke me up and asked me to go to the terrace. I didn?t understand why until I saw that beautiful sunrise. After breakfast, we went to the village of Agia Pelagia to have a look and to buy a few things. We were not especially impressed with the beach or the shops there, although the beach and the bay look much better from the Apartments. Then we drove to Heraklion. We walked around the shops and had a nice lunch by the seaside in Taverna Kastella, which serves good fish. We felt good in this city and would not have any regret if we had chosen to stay here as our base but we were also happy in Nymphes. We wanted to buy a few souvenirs after lunch but realized that the shops were closing and would not open until the following day. Only then, we found out that we overlooked their business hours, which is actually mentioned in our guidebook. OK then, we did a bit of window-shopping and went back to our apartment and had some drinks with the sea view! Luckily the Apartments served us dinner with local dishes, which were good and saved us the trouble of the need of going out every evening.

The following morning, we?re off to Knossos. We hired a guide at the entrance at 10 Euros per head. And luckily we did it because it helped us to make more sense of the place. It was a very sunny day but in Knossos it was very windy and every now and then the wind brought up all the sand. We actually enjoyed our visit there. When we finished, it?s lunch time, so, we went back to Taverna Kastella for our fish by the seaside. Today, we managed to do a bit of shopping too.

We had asked the Apartments to arrange a taxi to pick us up the next morning to catch the 9:15 am hydrofoil to Santorini. I was not sure why the taxi had to pick us up at 8 am when all it took was 30 minutes until we got to the pier and saw a line of people. It took us a bit more than 2 hours to get to Santorini after a lot of struggle because the sea was rough and a lot of people on the hydrofoil were not well. We saw a guy feeling sick right from the beginning and did not get any better during the whole trip. We were not very well too and the view of Santorini really gave us some relief.
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Old May 25th, 2004, 08:07 PM
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Thanks for posting, although I read with mixed feelings as I want to BE THERE!

Vera
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Old May 25th, 2004, 08:07 PM
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Sorry, it was at the bus station that we picked up the 7:30 am bus to the Gorge (not train station).
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Old May 26th, 2004, 05:02 PM
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Hi,
I hope this does not show up twice. I hit some button and something happened and I had to start again. anyway, I love your report. Keep it coming. I am planning a trip to crete and snatoini for may of 2005. I have already decided not to walk the samaria gorge. I have heard it is a long day and not for me. Give us more info. Thanks
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Old May 26th, 2004, 05:10 PM
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Akrotiri was closed a month ago, apparantly the heavy rains that they had at the end of winter caused all sorts of damage to the site and the roof covering it. A bit disappointing at the time, we made up for it by having a picnic on the red beach . A bit of a hike but sheltered and very pretty.
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Old May 26th, 2004, 07:26 PM
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Selinalei, clarification please. Was Akrotiri "covered" as in roof over the ruins, or were important structures covered with tarp or something like that.

BTW, I like your reports. We leave for Crete and Santorini really soon, and hope to have as half as much fun as it appears that you did.
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Old May 26th, 2004, 08:52 PM
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Thanks for all the encouragement. I will have the other parts soon.

greecube, I am afraid that the Akrotiri was covered in roof as well as in tarp in some areas (at least when we were there).
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Old Jun 3rd, 2004, 03:49 PM
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Sorry for the delay. My computer had a crash.

SANTORINI

Day 1

When we got off from the hydrofoil, a guy was already waiting for us with my husband's name to take us to Astra Apartments with two other couples. We were trying to remember the way for some orientation. One couple dropped off somewhere after Fira and was pointed to a small road. Obviously, nobody from the hotel they booked came to help them and my husband was getting a bit worried with our luggage and the we-did-not-know-how-many stairs.

The other couple dropped off with us in a square. Luckily, we were greeted by some staff of Astra, who helpfully carried all our luggage. It was a relief for my husband.

After checking in, we were shown to our superior apartment (No. 9). We found it very spacious, cute and very colorful. We were happy with it.

After settling ourselves and getting some information from the reception, we started walking from Astra to Fira by the caldera. It was a very scenic route and we could not help stopping here and there to take pictures and look back at the way we came from. We stopped on the way to have lunch at Taverna Skaros, which is in our guidebook and recommended by a lot of people, including Astra. Nice fish soup and octopus, especially after a difficult boat ride in the morning. And Santorini prices. Well, it was time to get used to it. We went on with our walk to Fira and it was funny to see all those hotels that we had researched on the Internet for months on the way. After all, they are not so far away from each other and they all look great from the outside. Got to Fira, with shops and restaurants all over but not too many people and tourists yet. We spent some time strolling around Fira, looking at a few shops, taking some pictures and enjoying the atmosphere.

We took a cab to get back to Astra (4 Euros) in the evening and had a light dinner in our apartment.
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Old Jun 3rd, 2004, 05:55 PM
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Day 2

We decided the day before that we would go to Oia today. So, after a good breakfast at Astra, we headed to the bus stop (around 10 minutes' walk from Astra) to take a bus to Oia (0.90 Euros per way). It was our first time to take a bus in Greece. We did not even have a seat and we were actually standing on the stairs at the entrance because the bus was already full. But it was very scenic and interesting.

We spent our day in Oia, just walking around the small streets, looking at the little cave houses and the blue sea. All the time, I could not stop asking my husband: ?Isn?t it beautiful??

There are some quality shops, selling designer items and beautiful art pieces. We just wished we could buy a piece or two but they are pricey and difficult to carry. Eventually we could buy them and ship them home but we did not.

We had a nice coffee just before we walked down to Ammoudi Port to have some fresh fish at Taverna Katina. Actually there are quite a few tavernas there but Katina was the one recommended and it was the only one with some customers. We got a table on the second row and ordered some salad, calamari and fish. The salad and calamari were nice. One of the fishes was good but the other was only OK. We enjoyed sitting there, looking at the bay and taking our time.

My husband could not bear the idea of walking up 300 steps to Oia after lunch, so we asked the Taverna to get us a cab to take us up to the bus stop to continue our day in Oia. That was the first time we had to share a cab with someone else (although we heard about it before) but we did not mind. While we were waiting for the other customer, which turned out to be a local lady, the cab driver confirmed us that Taverna Katina is the place to eat in Ammoudi.

Back to Oia, we passed by the famous 1800 and were not specially impressed with the location and wondered why it is so famous. Bought a beautiful handmade silver necklace from a German lady who owns a shop in Oia and had a nice talk with her.

We took the 4:20 bus to get back to Astra to see the sunset from our balcony. It was beautiful.

We went to Taverna Imerovigli, which is opposite to Taverna Skaros, to have a dinner. When we got there, it was almost full but we managed to get a small table. My husband enjoyed very much the lamb there while I had some pasta because I was already a bit tired of lamb and squid and octopus.

It was a very nice day.
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