Back from Bologna, trip report
Jan 13th, 2015, 09:42 AM
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Back from Bologna, trip report
Background: Starting December 30, I spent 3 nights in Bologna, four in Venice, then six more in Bologna. I'll do a separate report on Venice, and focus on Bologna here. I travelled with my 24 year old son the first week, then he started a course in Bologna, and we met a couple times for dinner, but otherwise I was on my own for that part of the trip. We live in New England.
General Impressions: I fell in love with Bologna. It's beautiful, vibrant, and thriving. The historic center is compact, and traffic is limited. It's a city where people live and work, not one dominated by tourists. It has a large university which adds to the appeal. I'm a slow traveler, and it was the perfect place for me to mix walking, people-watching and sightseeing. On a typical day I would do a lot of walking, see a few sights, take breaks to eat, drink and people watch. The evenings there are fun--the whole town seems to be out for passegio--walking, shopping, eating, socializing. I was lucky to be there on New Years Eve, when there was the burning of the veccione--an enormous sculpture of an old man that represents the bad things of the old year. It was very festive.
Hotel: I stayed at the Art Hotel Novecento and it was perfect. A block off the Piazza Maggiore, very quiet. The rooms are well-designed, even the small singles, which we stayed in the first leg of the trip. The breakfast buffet was excellent, and the staff was kind and helpful.
Dinners: Our best meal was at Vicolo Colombina, where they do updated versions of traditional dishes. I had a goat cheese roulade with sweet peppers, which was delicious, then lasagna that was crazy good, memorable. My son had the gramigna all ragu, which was excellent, and a beef filet which was very good. He ordered passionfruit and Campari granita for dessert which was delicious, though a little heavy on the Campari.
Because of closings for the holidays or other bad timing we weren't able to eat at some of the traditional places I had on my list, such as Gianni, Osteria dell'Bottega and Serghei. We did have meals at three other traditional trattorias, which ranged from pretty good to good. Giampi e Ciccio was kind of a fun atmosphere, the owner (?) was friendly and lively and local people who seemed to be regulars came in and had animated conversations with him, which I didn't understand, but enjoyed anyway. I didn’t write down what we ate, though I remember good lasagna and tortellini en brodo (the broth was especially good). After, we walked down the street for delicious gelato at Creamaria Santa Stefano. On New Years Day there were almost no restaurants open and we ended up at Buca Mazonni, which was only okay. The service was slow and a little surly (the only place I felt that in Bologna) so I can’t recommend it. Da Nello was the best of these three. I had excellent risotto con fungi and my son had very good gramigna and boar with polenta that was good. I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way for any of these three, but Da Nello and Giampo e Ciccio were fine.
We had a good quick simple dinner at Zeroquinquantuno (051). Just walked in off the street. The menu was pretty traditional, but it had a modern no-fuss vibe. I think we shared a plate of meats and cheeses and got pastas. Not memorable, obviously, but pleasant.
A taxi ride away, on the outskirts of the city is Osteria Satyricon, which has a fresh take on the traditional cuisine. It was a really fun atmosphere. The owner was super friendly and helpful, the food was a little mixed, but overall good, and it was a nice change of pace.
Didn’t eat there, but Trattoria Battibecoo was right around the corner from our hotel, and I heard that it was excellent. However almost everything is fish based and my son and I are not big fish eaters. The menu looked interesting, as did the restaurant, so if you go to Bologna and like fish you might want to check it out.
A couple of nights on my own, tired of big meals, I had yogurt in my room, though I did go out and walk around and enjoy the evening festivities. The city was beautifully lit for the holidays, and as I mentioned before there were always lots of people out. As a woman traveling alone I felt completely comfortable and safe.
One night on my own I ate at Eataly, where I had some very good pasta and a plate of vegetables. It was quick and easy. I love that Eatlay is also a bookstore. I spent about an hour there just looking at the covers. By the way, Bologna has a lot of bookstores.
I’ll come back to report on other food experiences (which were overall better than the dinners--there's lots of good food in Bologna!) sight-seeing, day trips, and miscellaneous.
General Impressions: I fell in love with Bologna. It's beautiful, vibrant, and thriving. The historic center is compact, and traffic is limited. It's a city where people live and work, not one dominated by tourists. It has a large university which adds to the appeal. I'm a slow traveler, and it was the perfect place for me to mix walking, people-watching and sightseeing. On a typical day I would do a lot of walking, see a few sights, take breaks to eat, drink and people watch. The evenings there are fun--the whole town seems to be out for passegio--walking, shopping, eating, socializing. I was lucky to be there on New Years Eve, when there was the burning of the veccione--an enormous sculpture of an old man that represents the bad things of the old year. It was very festive.
Hotel: I stayed at the Art Hotel Novecento and it was perfect. A block off the Piazza Maggiore, very quiet. The rooms are well-designed, even the small singles, which we stayed in the first leg of the trip. The breakfast buffet was excellent, and the staff was kind and helpful.
Dinners: Our best meal was at Vicolo Colombina, where they do updated versions of traditional dishes. I had a goat cheese roulade with sweet peppers, which was delicious, then lasagna that was crazy good, memorable. My son had the gramigna all ragu, which was excellent, and a beef filet which was very good. He ordered passionfruit and Campari granita for dessert which was delicious, though a little heavy on the Campari.
Because of closings for the holidays or other bad timing we weren't able to eat at some of the traditional places I had on my list, such as Gianni, Osteria dell'Bottega and Serghei. We did have meals at three other traditional trattorias, which ranged from pretty good to good. Giampi e Ciccio was kind of a fun atmosphere, the owner (?) was friendly and lively and local people who seemed to be regulars came in and had animated conversations with him, which I didn't understand, but enjoyed anyway. I didn’t write down what we ate, though I remember good lasagna and tortellini en brodo (the broth was especially good). After, we walked down the street for delicious gelato at Creamaria Santa Stefano. On New Years Day there were almost no restaurants open and we ended up at Buca Mazonni, which was only okay. The service was slow and a little surly (the only place I felt that in Bologna) so I can’t recommend it. Da Nello was the best of these three. I had excellent risotto con fungi and my son had very good gramigna and boar with polenta that was good. I wouldn’t recommend going out of your way for any of these three, but Da Nello and Giampo e Ciccio were fine.
We had a good quick simple dinner at Zeroquinquantuno (051). Just walked in off the street. The menu was pretty traditional, but it had a modern no-fuss vibe. I think we shared a plate of meats and cheeses and got pastas. Not memorable, obviously, but pleasant.
A taxi ride away, on the outskirts of the city is Osteria Satyricon, which has a fresh take on the traditional cuisine. It was a really fun atmosphere. The owner was super friendly and helpful, the food was a little mixed, but overall good, and it was a nice change of pace.
Didn’t eat there, but Trattoria Battibecoo was right around the corner from our hotel, and I heard that it was excellent. However almost everything is fish based and my son and I are not big fish eaters. The menu looked interesting, as did the restaurant, so if you go to Bologna and like fish you might want to check it out.
A couple of nights on my own, tired of big meals, I had yogurt in my room, though I did go out and walk around and enjoy the evening festivities. The city was beautifully lit for the holidays, and as I mentioned before there were always lots of people out. As a woman traveling alone I felt completely comfortable and safe.
One night on my own I ate at Eataly, where I had some very good pasta and a plate of vegetables. It was quick and easy. I love that Eatlay is also a bookstore. I spent about an hour there just looking at the covers. By the way, Bologna has a lot of bookstores.
I’ll come back to report on other food experiences (which were overall better than the dinners--there's lots of good food in Bologna!) sight-seeing, day trips, and miscellaneous.
Jan 13th, 2015, 10:31 AM
#3
Thanks for the report!
I stayed at one of the Art Hotels in Bologna, the Corona d'Oro, in a single, and agree that they are very comfortable and well-designed. Loved the hotel and loved Bologna. I am looking forward to your sightseeing installment so I can relive my time in that charming city.
I stayed at one of the Art Hotels in Bologna, the Corona d'Oro, in a single, and agree that they are very comfortable and well-designed. Loved the hotel and loved Bologna. I am looking forward to your sightseeing installment so I can relive my time in that charming city.
Jan 13th, 2015, 11:13 AM
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Interesting report! You lucked out with weather, I think, this Christmas season being very mild.
Eataly is actually located inside a different bookstore owned by other people. They essentially share the space. Sadly, one of the best English-language bookstores in Italy -- a branch of Feltrinelli on the via Zamboni -- just recently closed. A real heartbreaker.
You probably got the best of Da Nello in ordering mushrooms, and certainly one of the very best reasons to go to Giampi e Ciccio are the owners. Both of them are not always there, but one is usually enough because they both have such a wonderful attitude about being hosts and running a restaurant. I have never seen them treat anybody differently, whether it is local business folk who come in or tourists who do not speak a lick of Italian. There food is very straightforward and it is just about as close as you can get to a certain kind of urban style in Bologna of sharing a good meal.
Battibecco has occasionally gotten Michelin stars (don't know if they have held onto them) but some of the best fish in Bologna is cooked up by several different Sicilian or Pugliese chefs running restaurants near the Porta San Vitale. My favorite is Da Maro.
Looking forward to hearing about the non-restarurant food experiences, and am already not surprised to learn that you found they exceeded the restaurant experiences.
I hope you will also be adding info about your sightseeing in the area.
Eataly is actually located inside a different bookstore owned by other people. They essentially share the space. Sadly, one of the best English-language bookstores in Italy -- a branch of Feltrinelli on the via Zamboni -- just recently closed. A real heartbreaker.
You probably got the best of Da Nello in ordering mushrooms, and certainly one of the very best reasons to go to Giampi e Ciccio are the owners. Both of them are not always there, but one is usually enough because they both have such a wonderful attitude about being hosts and running a restaurant. I have never seen them treat anybody differently, whether it is local business folk who come in or tourists who do not speak a lick of Italian. There food is very straightforward and it is just about as close as you can get to a certain kind of urban style in Bologna of sharing a good meal.
Battibecco has occasionally gotten Michelin stars (don't know if they have held onto them) but some of the best fish in Bologna is cooked up by several different Sicilian or Pugliese chefs running restaurants near the Porta San Vitale. My favorite is Da Maro.
Looking forward to hearing about the non-restarurant food experiences, and am already not surprised to learn that you found they exceeded the restaurant experiences.
I hope you will also be adding info about your sightseeing in the area.
Jan 13th, 2015, 03:54 PM
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Sandralist- the suggestions you made before the trip were useful and helpful. Thank you! I also drew suggestions from Low Country Insider's trip report and some others here, and hope that my report will aid someone in the future. I will definitely be getting to the sights of Bologna!
Jan 13th, 2015, 04:32 PM
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Despite my somewhat tepid report on dinners in Bologna, the food there is wonderful. The Quadrilatero, an area of small cobblestone streets right off of Piazza Maggiore (the city's main square) is filled with marvelous food markets. Meats, pastas, fish, cheese, vegetables, fruits, and more, all enticing. The streets are always lively and I found myself going there a few times a day (and evening) to enjoy the scene, to buy clementines from Sicily for my hotel room, to eat or dream of eating. Bologna would be a great place to rent an apartment to cook in and to assemble sandwiches from all the marvelous cured meats and cheeses available. I got hooked on having a proscuiotto and cheese sandwich every day for lunch. Sometimes from the salumeries, temples of meat and cheese, sometimes from bars. One of my favorite places, a bit away from the Quadrilatero was Bagni di Luca, smaller and quieter than some of the places in the Quadrilatero. Someone here mentioned them--thank you! They created small masterpieces with each sandwich, and were very patient with me and my thirty words of Italian. I was usually surrounded by older Italian women (often in fur coats) who enjoyed joking with and scolding the men behind the counter.
One day we had lunch upstairs at La Baita, and got a big platter of cured meats and cheeses served with crescentines, a small thick, round bread. I found the prices in these "delis" to be quite good, and the food was always fresh and tasty. Also, in my previous post I didn't emphasize enough how good the pastas are. We had several kinds, always delicious.
There are bars everywhere and I enjoyed going into them for a coffee and brioche or sandwich. There's also a big aperitif scene and lots of sidewalk cafes, which I didn't participate in much, but enjoyed as I strolled by.
Tomorrow I'll report on sights, day trips, and odds and ends.
One day we had lunch upstairs at La Baita, and got a big platter of cured meats and cheeses served with crescentines, a small thick, round bread. I found the prices in these "delis" to be quite good, and the food was always fresh and tasty. Also, in my previous post I didn't emphasize enough how good the pastas are. We had several kinds, always delicious.
There are bars everywhere and I enjoyed going into them for a coffee and brioche or sandwich. There's also a big aperitif scene and lots of sidewalk cafes, which I didn't participate in much, but enjoyed as I strolled by.
Tomorrow I'll report on sights, day trips, and odds and ends.
Jan 13th, 2015, 04:50 PM
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I am mystified by your reference to Bagni di Luca. Where is it?
I didn't know you could eat upstairs at La Baita (I assume you mean the cheese store near the piazza Maggiore, not the trattoria-pizzeria closer to the train station).
I didn't know you could eat upstairs at La Baita (I assume you mean the cheese store near the piazza Maggiore, not the trattoria-pizzeria closer to the train station).
Jan 13th, 2015, 05:09 PM
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Sandralist: I meant Bruno e Franco on Via Obedon--have no idea how I cam up with Bagni di Luca! I wish there was a way to edit these posts.
Yes, I meant the cheese store La Baita--they have a small space upstairs where they serve lunch.
Yes, I meant the cheese store La Baita--they have a small space upstairs where they serve lunch.
Jan 13th, 2015, 05:39 PM
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Oh! Funny! It is a fantastic deli, on the via Oberdan. I was curious because the santuario is the Madonna di San Luca, so I thought maybe it was over in that direction. However, is this possibly how you ended up mis-remembering it as "Bagni di Luca" -- ???
https://bagnidilucca.wordpress.com/2...li-in-bologna/
I'll have to try upstairs at La Baita sometime. Good to know it's there.
https://bagnidilucca.wordpress.com/2...li-in-bologna/
I'll have to try upstairs at La Baita sometime. Good to know it's there.
Jan 14th, 2015, 04:47 AM
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A great report, thanks. Looking forward to more.
I had lunch at Trattoria Battibecoo last April and thought it was great. I will go there again, hopefully, next time I'm in town.
And I also lament the closure of the English language book store on Via Zamboni. As of March 31 2014, I think, they have a small selection of non-Italian books at the main Feltrinelly, across the road. Which is not the same of course, far from it unfortunately. How I loved that shop, it used to be one of the highlights of all previous visits.
I had lunch at Trattoria Battibecoo last April and thought it was great. I will go there again, hopefully, next time I'm in town.
And I also lament the closure of the English language book store on Via Zamboni. As of March 31 2014, I think, they have a small selection of non-Italian books at the main Feltrinelly, across the road. Which is not the same of course, far from it unfortunately. How I loved that shop, it used to be one of the highlights of all previous visits.
Jan 14th, 2015, 05:45 AM
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It's always sad when a bookstore closes. I noticed that the bookstore that shares space with Eataly has a section of Italian books translated into English. Also, I don't have pictures on Flickr but if anyone is on Instagram I posted quite a few of the trip. User name orchardsinspace.
Jan 14th, 2015, 07:33 AM
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Sandralist: you are quite a sleuth! I just looked at the link you put above, and that is indeed what happened. I couldn't remember the name, had thrown out my printout of notes, and rather than find the word doc, I did a quick search.
Probably not a good idea to do a trip report when jet-lagged!
Probably not a good idea to do a trip report when jet-lagged!
Jan 15th, 2015, 05:18 AM
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Continuing…Before I move on to sights and day trips I want to give one more food tip. Gilbertos on via Drappeire (in the Quadrilatero/food market section) is primarily a candy store, but also has liquors, marmalades and other assorted. I am always on the hunt for good licorice and got some there. I have simple, unsophisticated taste in chocolate and bought some tortellini shaped milk chocolate which I thought was very good, so I went back and got some in dark chocolate to give as gifts, and also some mixed boxed of the small Fiat chocolates by Majani to give as gifts. Their prices are good and they have an interesting range from jellybeans to candied violets.
On to sights and day trips.
Rather then tell you every sight I saw I will share some of my favorites. I couldn't find a guide book to Bologna before I left, so I tore the Bologna section out of an Italy guidebook and made notes of places mentioned here and other sources. The hotel had a good map, and there is also a tourist office on Piazza Maggiore (Sandralist mentioned this to me, and I didn't go there, though I should have.) I did find a good guide book at the Museo dell Storia, sort of late into the trip. I wish I'd had it earlier. I like to skim info about a sight, then read in depth after--I seem to absorb it better then. Anyway, I carried with me at all times a map of the city and a list of sights I had prioritized. I'd make a sort of plan for each day--a few sights to see, a few neighborhoods to explore and set out.
I saw several wonderful churches. The highlights were the Basilica in Pizza Maggiore (which has a great back story) and I LOVED the Saint Stefano complex. It's simplicity really appealed to me. There was Benedictine choir music playing and it filled me with a sense of peace. Also, the Oratorio di Santa Cecilia, which had wonderful frescoes. Others too, whose names I can't remember now, but there are many in treating churches in Bologna
The Museo dell Storia is really well done, though I would have gotten a lot more out of it if I read Italian. Each room had a summary in English, but the individual displays were explained in Italian. Even so, I'm glad I went--I got a better sense of the history of Bplogna (and that guidebook). I also really enjoyed the Anatomical Theater in the Archigginasio fascinating. I didn't get to St. Luca, which I regret. Next time.
I feel like walked every street in Bologna. The center city with all the porticos, the towers and the ancient buildings also had lots of thriving businesses. I loved the energy of the university quarter, and all the graffiti. The sense of political engagement was refreshing. I went over to MamBo, the Museum of Modern Art, which is small but very good. (I love modern art.) Everywhere you go there is something to see.
I took three day trips: Ravenna, Faenza, and Florence; and also went to and from Venice (which I will write about in a separate trip report). Bologna is a great train hub, and the train station was easy to navigate. I usually walked there (25 minutes from my hotel) but there are always plenty of cabs if you have lots of luggage or tired feet. I purchased tickets for the high speed trains to Florence and Venice ahead of time, but bought the others at the machines at the train station. I planned to go to Parma, but at the last minute changed to Faenza (only a half hour train ride) which has a world class ceramics museum and also a nice town, where I got lunch, and am glad I did, though I hope to get to Parma one day. The frescos at Ravenna are a marvel. The train ride is 1 hour, 20 minutes, but I read and dozed and it was fine.
I know I'm leaving a lot of specifics out, but want to highlight how much I loved Bologna. I was sad to leave. If I think of anything else that might be useful I'll come back and post.
On to sights and day trips.
Rather then tell you every sight I saw I will share some of my favorites. I couldn't find a guide book to Bologna before I left, so I tore the Bologna section out of an Italy guidebook and made notes of places mentioned here and other sources. The hotel had a good map, and there is also a tourist office on Piazza Maggiore (Sandralist mentioned this to me, and I didn't go there, though I should have.) I did find a good guide book at the Museo dell Storia, sort of late into the trip. I wish I'd had it earlier. I like to skim info about a sight, then read in depth after--I seem to absorb it better then. Anyway, I carried with me at all times a map of the city and a list of sights I had prioritized. I'd make a sort of plan for each day--a few sights to see, a few neighborhoods to explore and set out.
I saw several wonderful churches. The highlights were the Basilica in Pizza Maggiore (which has a great back story) and I LOVED the Saint Stefano complex. It's simplicity really appealed to me. There was Benedictine choir music playing and it filled me with a sense of peace. Also, the Oratorio di Santa Cecilia, which had wonderful frescoes. Others too, whose names I can't remember now, but there are many in treating churches in Bologna
The Museo dell Storia is really well done, though I would have gotten a lot more out of it if I read Italian. Each room had a summary in English, but the individual displays were explained in Italian. Even so, I'm glad I went--I got a better sense of the history of Bplogna (and that guidebook). I also really enjoyed the Anatomical Theater in the Archigginasio fascinating. I didn't get to St. Luca, which I regret. Next time.
I feel like walked every street in Bologna. The center city with all the porticos, the towers and the ancient buildings also had lots of thriving businesses. I loved the energy of the university quarter, and all the graffiti. The sense of political engagement was refreshing. I went over to MamBo, the Museum of Modern Art, which is small but very good. (I love modern art.) Everywhere you go there is something to see.
I took three day trips: Ravenna, Faenza, and Florence; and also went to and from Venice (which I will write about in a separate trip report). Bologna is a great train hub, and the train station was easy to navigate. I usually walked there (25 minutes from my hotel) but there are always plenty of cabs if you have lots of luggage or tired feet. I purchased tickets for the high speed trains to Florence and Venice ahead of time, but bought the others at the machines at the train station. I planned to go to Parma, but at the last minute changed to Faenza (only a half hour train ride) which has a world class ceramics museum and also a nice town, where I got lunch, and am glad I did, though I hope to get to Parma one day. The frescos at Ravenna are a marvel. The train ride is 1 hour, 20 minutes, but I read and dozed and it was fine.
I know I'm leaving a lot of specifics out, but want to highlight how much I loved Bologna. I was sad to leave. If I think of anything else that might be useful I'll come back and post.
Jan 15th, 2015, 09:20 AM
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Great tip about finding a guidebook at the Museo della Storia. The one time I tried to go to MAMbo I had misread the opening hours, so I hope to go back soon and try again. It is heartening to hear that, at a minimum, you were not put off by Bologna's graffiti, and even admired the spirit and history of it, but the natives are getting peeved about it, so the next time you go you might end up missing it!
Jan 16th, 2015, 04:31 AM
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Ugh. Just read my last reply and see it's full of typos and a couple of spellcheck slip-ins. Sorry!
I had read on here about people who were really put off by the graffiti, Sandralist, but it didn't bother me. I didn't see an in the core center city (and wouldn't want to) . Some on the fringes. A lot down via Zamboni in the university quarter, where I liked seeing it. Of course I used to live in Berkeley.
I had read on here about people who were really put off by the graffiti, Sandralist, but it didn't bother me. I didn't see an in the core center city (and wouldn't want to) . Some on the fringes. A lot down via Zamboni in the university quarter, where I liked seeing it. Of course I used to live in Berkeley.
Jan 20th, 2015, 11:50 AM
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Thanks for the great report flwrjen (and for referencing it in my earlier postiing so I knew to look out for it). Looking forward to your daytrip report as well. We are trying to balance day trips (Ravenna is a definite) with culinary activities.
We think we'll do half day cooking class with CIBO but are also contemplating the Italian Days Food Experience (parmesan, balsamic and ham). While I typically would discount the food tour and wasn't considering it, some friends who I trust said it was absolutely great. When I read the postings on another travel review website, it also sounded like it was something special and not just "here's the factory and the gift shop". PDFing your report for a reference while we're in Bologna!!
We think we'll do half day cooking class with CIBO but are also contemplating the Italian Days Food Experience (parmesan, balsamic and ham). While I typically would discount the food tour and wasn't considering it, some friends who I trust said it was absolutely great. When I read the postings on another travel review website, it also sounded like it was something special and not just "here's the factory and the gift shop". PDFing your report for a reference while we're in Bologna!!
