lauramsgarden

I am sitting on the balcony of our room at the Electra Palace Hotel in Athens looking up at the Acropolis. It is still feeling unreal that something so exquisite and ancient still survives in the midst of this mad mad world. So as promised here is our trip report...I shall add as we go so I can remember as much as possible.

Our two intrepid travelers, aka Steve and Laura, started off three days ago (I think) from little Farmington New Mexico. A three hour drive to Albuquerque - easy lines at TSA in spite of all the dire warnings and on time flight to Dallas. Since we had an overnight layover we had booked a room at the Hyatt Regency attached to the airport which proved to be oh so wise. We got four or five hours of sleep and a great breakfast and the room was really comfortable. I highly recommend it if your travels take you there.

Again, easy TSA the next morning and on time flight to Philly, terrible airport food but at least we new that the tavernas were waiting. The flight to Athens was delayed a bit, but once on board (American airlines) all was incredibly efficient. Long night on the airplane, but what a miracle that we can fly overseas in a mere nine hours - so easy to complain, but really so grateful for modern wonders.

We went through customs in Athens quickly, and a very friendly taxi driver delivered us to the hotel where we were greeted with much friendliness. Our room wasn't ready so we sat in the garden and ate lunch (fish soup, salad with smoked salmon and filo pastries - very good) and had our first capuccino (ok two - we were tired). With the first sip I knew I wasn't in Kansas anymore - I am in love with European coffee - true confessions.

Refusing to bow to fatigue, once we had settled in the room we walked to Symtagna square. Our intent was to go to the National History museum to give us some context, but repeating our mistakes from our last trip abroad we forgot to check hours and arriving at 3 pm, found it had closed at 2. hot, sweaty and grumpy. But gathered ourselves together and went to the Benaki museum which is a gem - pottery (grecian urns fit for an ode) and paintings. Actually every museum we have gotten into so far has been impressive.

then walked in Queen Amalia's garden - sort of worn, showing the impact I suspect of austerity. Stopped for icecream and an esspresso fredo - my new best friend. Swam at the hotel roof top pool and ate dinner at their restaurant - beautiful view of the Acropolis, and wonderful service - food was fine but not great.

This morning delighted in the European breakfast buffet that I have come to love on our last two trips and then intrepidly donned our hats and sunscreen and took off for the Acropolis. Wisely took a taxi so we wouldn't arrive tired and the driver was again so helpful and friendly. The Acropolis defies description, but the awe of standing amongst something so ancient was palpable. Also wonderful to hear the swirl of languages around us. And yes it was hot hot hot. Cooled down with a frozen lemonade and walked to the Acropolis museum, as much for the air conditioning as anything. Enjoyed the museum, enjoyed the lunch at the top floor restaurant more (thank you Travlrjan). We then tried to go to the folklore museum (honest taxi driver told us we could walk, silly to take taxi) only it had moved so we went to the Byzantine museum instead - we thought it was going to be a small, informal museum and it turned out to be huge and very complex collection. We enjoyed it, but after a while fatigue re-asserted itself so back to the room to rest and share this first installment. Tomorrow we are off to Thermopolye and Meteora. I will report in again when the chance arrives. (and please all, forgive my misspellings - never my strong suit).

Heimdall

Great start to your trip report! Thank you!

billbarr

Wonderful. Thanks laura and I look forward to reading more as your journey continues.

I understand your comments about the Acropolis. I remember my first visit to Athens around 60 years ago (it's been love affair with the city ever since and I’ve visited so many times over the years), arriving just as night was turning to day, opening the bedroom shutters and right above was the Acropolis. I couldn’t go to bed and sat out looking up at this iconic building as the sun rose over it.

Bill

clausar

Can't wait to read more !!
Wish you a wonderful time in Greece

jerseysusan

I am reading this with happy anticipation as I am leaving for Greece on Friday. Hope you have a great time.

lauramsgarden

Thanks Jersey Susan, let me know if I can answer any questions.

I will return to our travels in a moment, but before I go back to the trip log I want to share something that made a deep impression on me. We have been traveling for the last two days with a guide - to Thermopolea, Meteora and now we are in Delphi. We have been talking a lot about history - a passion we all share, and in particular, learning about the Ottoman (Turkish) occupation which lasted hundreds of years and was brutally repressive, and about the Nazi Occupation during world war II, sharing stories of grandparents and parents who fought in the war. I have been deeply moved by how much these histories are still imprinted in the hearts and memories of the Greek people, and how devastating they were.

On our way to Delphi today we decided to stop at the Byzantyne Monestary of Osius Lucus, a Unesco World Heritage sight. High on the mountains in utter serenity and beauty and filled with incredible mosaics and frescoes, it is well worth the side trip.

On our way there the guide told us the story of the Village you go through before you reach the Monastery. During WWII partisans had attacked a group of German soldiers. In retaliation the Germans ordered the entire village destroyed. They murdered every inhabitant, even babies as young as three months, and burned it to the ground. We stopped at a beautiful monument, high on a hill, reminiscent of the Vietnam Memorial in DC with the names and ages of all the dead. I don't remember the name of the village but it is near Arachova.

more in a little.

lauramsgarden

Now back to the journey. Our second night in Athens we went to Pssarras Taverna (thanks all for the recommendation). It was a beautiful night sitting outside, live music, and we particularly liked the "starters" of eggplant stuffed with cheese and grape vine leaves...sigh.

Somehow we found ourselves on the street of tourist stores in the Plaka - it was fun, and a necklace just happened to find itself at the cash register and around my neck - thank you Steve.

The next morning our guide, Dmitri, from PK Travel met us at our hotel, and after some sticky Athens traffic we were on our way. First stop Thermopolea. It is now a small site by the road, but with a good history center that told the story of the brave Spartans holding the pass against the overwhelming Persian odds with gusto. Again, so amazing to be standing where events thousands of years ago transpired and see them still honored.

Then on to Meteora - we stayed at the Iridinos Guest house, friendly and clean, the town of Kalambaka is full of small hotels and very pleasant. I can't gush enouch about Meteora - amazing mountain formations and the incredible monasteries perched atop the rocks like eagles nests, so serene and beautiful inside and the incredible mountains outside. We ate two good meals in local tavernas recommended by the guide, I will ask him for the names tomorrow. All I can say is if you do any sight seeing in Greece go to Meteora. It is truly one of the most beautiful places I've ever seen.

and now to bed, tomorrow we will consult the Oracle of Delphi and then off to Chania. Kali Nichta

travelerjan

Friends ask, why on one of your many trips to greece, don't you go to Turkey as well? My answer is, I've read too much history...

stokebailey

Oh, fun live report! Thanks, Laura.

halfapair

I am very excited to read your trip report, Laura. DH & I are planning a trip similar to yours in 2017, and I love that you stayed at the Electra Palace - that is where we are thinking of staying.

I can't wait to read more.

clausar

The village near Arachova was Distomo, very few actually survived
the Nazi massacre.....

Distomo is just one village among many others that were completely destroyed and their population murdered.
You can read more about this here : https://www.warhistoryonline.com/fea...odbaths.html/2

lauramsgarden

Thanks Clausar, I was going to look it up. So to continue now that I have internet again...

First a word about language. Although it is true that almost everyone we have met speaks excellent English, when I try out the Greek that I learned via Rosetta Stone and a Berlitz cd their eyes light up and we have wonderful if halting conversations. If you have the time before your trip I highly recommend learning even a few phrases. At first it was a bit daunting, but now is getting easier every day.

Back to Meteora for a moment for a moment, in the largest Monastery Megalo Meteora there is a wonderful museum, and in it there were displays about how the Greek Orthodox Church resisted (and was persecuted) by both the Ottomans and the Nazis. Also learned from our guy that the Patriarch of the Church of Athens was almost single handedly responsible for saving many of the Jews of Athens by making fake ID's for them.

but I digress... yesterday we started the day bright and early (we stayed at the Kastalia Boutique - nothing to write home about but I don't think there is that much variety in the hotels in Delphi - in all of them the views are amazing. We met a guide we had hired in advance (Penny - I'm told she was part of a National Geographic special on Delphi) and I am so glad we did. Her knowledge of history was amazing and again we were blown away by the beauty and spirituality and just standing in the place of such antiquity. It's hard to put into words, but I much preferred Delphi to the Acropolis - just the quiet beauty of it.

We left at 11 to get back to Athens, but stopped on the way at Cherion (I think it's called) a little village that can lay claim to being the heart of the Greek nation as it was where Phillip of Macedon (father of Alexander the Great) defeated the Athenians and the Thebans to create the polity of Greece. A sweet little museum with artifacts going back to the Stone Age, and a statue of a Lion to honor Phillip grace the spot.

Then on to Athens airport - security easy if confusing, Olympic airlines gracious and on time, and a quick flight to Chania Greece.

We are staying at the Alcanea hotel right on the harbor. I can't gush enough about it - the room is beautiful and the view astounding, they are hospitable in extremis, with free mini bar and raki in the room, and the best breakfast to date. I highly recommend it.

Dinner last night at Tamman (thank you everyone for the recommendation) - lamb two different ways and too many appetizers but we are falling in love with Creten cuisine. Loving the rusk and tomato salads!

Today saw the maritime museum, again powerful displays on the battle for Crete plus I think I may take up model ship building as a hobby lol. Then found the Aitz Chayim synagogue - was used by the Chania Greek community (a community I'm told that had been here for 2,000 years before the Nazis deported them in 1941. I was deeply moved, stopped to pray a bit, and was so happy to learn that it has been restored and is now in use as a synagogue once more.

Then lunch at Kruo Brusali taverna - shared mezes - tried to go to the art and archeology museums but true to our pattern they were both closed so had to comfort ourselves with supporting the Greek economy by shopping .

and a word on books, before signing off - I read several Jeffrey Siger books - modern mysteries that take place around Greece and am now reading a Mary Renault book on Alexander the Great. I love the way that reading stories set where one visits help to make the books come alive. Tomorrow we will hit the roads to Elouanda, hopefully not hitting anyone else on the way.

lauramsgarden

And to quickly "finish" Chania - met a friend of a friend who took us to a taverna in the old Turkish quarter, right next to the church, which he didn't know the name of even though he eats there often. It was wonderful and we shared mezes - Datka, grilled octopus, pork in wine sauce, lentil puree and eggplant salad and soft cheese. If I find out the name I will share it....

HappyTrvlr

Laura, if you're still in Chania, try to find the book," The Cretan Runner" by George Psychoundakis,WWII, written by a shepherd who ran behind the lines during the German occupation to help the British. We dound it in a ahop on the Venetian harbor.

travelerjan

Glad you saw something of Chania, a bit surprised you're going to Elounda which is of course lovely but basically a resort and you didn't seem the resort sort ...

... Western Crete has the drama of the resistance to the Nazis ... the civilians fought off parachuters w. pitchforks, and then helped the Brits & Aussies escape, running down the Imbros Gorge to the UK ships in Libyan sea.. when Nazis followed down the gorge, Cretan sharpshooters stood on the cliff above & picked them off. Of course Naxis retaliated with mass shootings, in some villages just killed all the men, in others, everyone, then burned down all the buildings. A German photographer was so stricken by what he had to depict he risked his life to "leak" the photos of a group of village men & their fate http://www.lifo.gr/team/lola/34139 As you can imagine, Cretans had mixed feelings when Germans began vacationing there and asking about buying holiday homes "because we enjoyed it so in 1943". When u drive thru little villages near Chania, you see poignant monuments in the village squares. It was different in Eastern Crete.

Re language, beyond the please-thanks-how much-where basics, I have always done well by learning, not Phrases, but Praises - the words for "beautiful" "delicious" "magical" "unforgettable." It goes over very well!

clausar

Germans are on the top of the list of foreign visitors to Crete.
Even though Crete had suffered a lot from the Nazi occupation, it is the Cretan heart and hospitality , that never took out the feelings of the past on the visitors.

They have not forgotten ( especially older people) but they have forgiven. Germans have always been welcome to Crete.

mariha2912

Kastalia hotel is one of the oldest hotels in Delphi.
http://delphiphotohistory.blogspot.gr/?q=kastalia+hotel
Due to various circumstances, it had remained semi-closed for a few years. Then a Greek-Cypriot family sub-let it and renovated it only partially around 18 months ago. I think it has a lot of potential but there is lots left to do. By the way, the manager/very gentle guy who you might have meet is actually a quite known actor in Cyprus and has just now take his first baby steps on tourism industry.
Penny K. is an excellent guide and a very nice lady, she has claim her fair share of fame talking to various TV documentaries and Americans visitors seem to have developed an affection to her after showing Rick Steves around.
I am glad you enjoyed Delphi in general.

The site you stoped over on your way to Athens is Chaeronia
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chaeronea

I follow your trip with interest and can't wait for next instalment...

mariha2912

Actually http://delphiphotohistory.blogspot.g...kastalia+hotel

lauramsgarden

Thanks all for correcting my spelling and information - internet has been spotty and rather than lose it altogether looking things up I've been guessing. appreciate the help.

So Jan, I must comment on your thoughts that we don't seem "resort" type people. I think we are resort people, and history people and book people and food people and music people and hiking people and art people, etc. We are both in the helping professions and by the end of the year we are wrung out, and now that our children are grown we have made a commitment to ourselves to live our lives with as much gusto as we can, giving when we can, and receiving the gifts we have been given with gratitude. After the first four days of intense travel and sightseeing we are ecstatic to sit still by the ocean and just drink it in.

although now there is trouble in paradise, but more on that later...

So we rejoin our intrepid duo in Chania yesterday morning (again, can't rave enough about Alcanea hotel - especially the breakfasts and the lovely staff). We rented a car from Enterprise via auto europe. They brought it to the hotel for a small fee, the gentleman at first seemed kind of cold, and then I realized it was because his English was sparse and he was shy. Once I tried my little bit of Greek with him we were best of friends and he even helped guide us out of town.

So for any others who are nervous about driving in other countries the way I am - driving in Greece (or at least Crete) was a pleasure. The main highway, or national road as they call it is like a country road in the US - four lanes at the widest, not crowded at all. We enjoyed the drive thoroughly and found it easy to find a little taverna for lunch. Opted out of side trips as we were late getting started. We did not have the trouble others have noted of drivers being aggressively fast. What we realized is the custom is that if you are on the slow side (ie driving the speed limit which we did) you pull off a little to the right shoulder and the others just zoom on by no problem.

Our only glitch came in finding the hotel, once we got to Ayious Nicholaios the directions just didnt' seem to work, and the gps was useless. Finally asked directions (yea) and found it.

We are staying at the Aquila Elounda hotel (now called Sensimar) and knew we were entering a whole new class of experience when we were greeted with champaign at reception. Roses in the room, infinity pool (this was the reason I had to try this place - I've never had an infinity pool and just had to experience it once I saw the picture). The sea is the most incredible blue I have ever seen, and we basically just sit and stare at it endlessly and pinch ourselves. Feeling very Night Manager or James Bond. We've mostly been in rest and recovery mode, but tomorrow may try to go to Spinalonga island if the wind isn't too much. We've been eating at the resort and the food has ranged from decent to excelellent.

Two funny incidents. the shower in the room has see-through sides (hopefully you are not rooming with someone you don't want to see in the altogether). The first afternoon my husband was showering off the road dirt when a knock comes on the door - room service bringing a complimentary basket of fruit and champaign. And I'm yelling, oxi,oxi, and my poor husband is cowering in the shower not being the exhibitionist type. We were doubled over with laughter by the end.

Incident two - we were desperate to get some clean clothes after sweating through most of what we brought between climbing the Acropolis, Meteora and Delphi in the heat, so sent a bunch off to the laundry not bothering to look at the prices - uh oh - it was so crazy housekeeping actually tracked us down on the beach to make sure we really meant it. Crazy Americans - this one we will laugh about for years to come. No, I'm not telling how much it was.

Normally we wouldn't be able to afford this kind of place, but we booked early, non-refundable,and I think they are under new management so were trying to fill it up. At any rate, we will remember this for the rest of our lives it is so lovely.

Now to the trouble in Paradise - just found out our ferry to Naxos was cancelled. Y'all warned me.....so tomorrow I will ask the nice concierge to help us figure out what to do....

Kalli Nichta....

travelerjan

I know, the laundry prices are surprising,and would you believe, it's often done by "freelancers" at their homes, and line-dried on the roof!! Also, watch out for shrinkage!! Alas, laundromats are sparse.