Around The World In Collars and Pearls: A Mother-Daughter Adventure
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Around The World In Collars and Pearls: A Mother-Daughter Adventure
I have always been lucky to consider my Mom to be my best friend, support pillar, fan, shrink, style consultant, drinking buddy and confidant. Her circumstances have recently made it possible for her to travel broadly and on her own schedule and in the spring of last year, I was fortunate to briefly piggyback along for a few days for part of her three week trip around Europe. We had a great time and swore we would do it again as soon as possible. So after an unexpected move to New York in the early fall (and finding myself with nearly a full free month to myself), I was delighted when Mom called me one day and said, “Darling, I want you to come travel with me in Europe for a bit! My treat!”.
“Yes!” came my immediate answer.
“There’s only one caveat,” said Mom. “You have to dress nicely.”
I paused. Mom sensed the pause and reveled in it before adding with emphasis, “you have to dress nicely all of the time!”
If you’ve never read any of my other trip reports, I should warn you that Mom is quite possibly the most proper, prissy and preppy person on the planet. My sisters and I are pretty certain that when she was born, she appeared wearing a crisp white collar button-up shirt with pearls. Which probably explains why she loves to call us out when our appearance is too casual for her taste. But kissing my comfy clothing good bye for a few weeks seemed a small price to pay for a great trip and chance to spend quality time with Mom, so I loaded up my suitcase with more crisp dress shirts, well-pressed work trousers, pumps and heels than any sane person would ever bring on her leisure travels and readied myself for an adventure.
As for our itinerary, Mom is ancestrally half Swedish, so she was adamant that we spend some time together in Stockholm, a place she had not been to for many years (and has never visited with her any of her daughters). Apart from Stockholm, we had complete carte blanche to determine our itinerary, so after much back and forth, we decided together on the following (if I may say, ambitious!) itinerary:
- Day 1/2 – I fly to Istanbul and we meet there.
- Day 3 – Istanbul
- Day 4 – Fly Istanbul to Cophenhagen
- Day 5 – Copenhagen
- Day 6 – Copenhagen -- Mom’s Birthday!!
- Day 7 - Copenhagen
- Day 8 – Cophenhagen to Stockholm
- Day 9 - Stockholm
- Day 10 – Stockholm
- Day 11 - Stockholm
- Day 12 – Stockholm to Oslo
- Day 13 – Oslo
- Day 14 – Oslo to Lisbon
- Day 15 – Lisbon
- Day 16 – Sintra Day Trip
- Day 17 – Lisbon to Porto
- Day 18 – Vinho Verde Tour Outside of Porto
- Day 19 – Fly Home
P.S. Since my trip reports double as my travel diary (lazy, I know), I go into a bit of detail. For that reason I’ll add bullet highlights summarizing each days’ adventures at the top of each new installment. Feel free to skip around!
“Yes!” came my immediate answer.
“There’s only one caveat,” said Mom. “You have to dress nicely.”
I paused. Mom sensed the pause and reveled in it before adding with emphasis, “you have to dress nicely all of the time!”
If you’ve never read any of my other trip reports, I should warn you that Mom is quite possibly the most proper, prissy and preppy person on the planet. My sisters and I are pretty certain that when she was born, she appeared wearing a crisp white collar button-up shirt with pearls. Which probably explains why she loves to call us out when our appearance is too casual for her taste. But kissing my comfy clothing good bye for a few weeks seemed a small price to pay for a great trip and chance to spend quality time with Mom, so I loaded up my suitcase with more crisp dress shirts, well-pressed work trousers, pumps and heels than any sane person would ever bring on her leisure travels and readied myself for an adventure.
As for our itinerary, Mom is ancestrally half Swedish, so she was adamant that we spend some time together in Stockholm, a place she had not been to for many years (and has never visited with her any of her daughters). Apart from Stockholm, we had complete carte blanche to determine our itinerary, so after much back and forth, we decided together on the following (if I may say, ambitious!) itinerary:
- Day 1/2 – I fly to Istanbul and we meet there.
- Day 3 – Istanbul
- Day 4 – Fly Istanbul to Cophenhagen
- Day 5 – Copenhagen
- Day 6 – Copenhagen -- Mom’s Birthday!!
- Day 7 - Copenhagen
- Day 8 – Cophenhagen to Stockholm
- Day 9 - Stockholm
- Day 10 – Stockholm
- Day 11 - Stockholm
- Day 12 – Stockholm to Oslo
- Day 13 – Oslo
- Day 14 – Oslo to Lisbon
- Day 15 – Lisbon
- Day 16 – Sintra Day Trip
- Day 17 – Lisbon to Porto
- Day 18 – Vinho Verde Tour Outside of Porto
- Day 19 – Fly Home
P.S. Since my trip reports double as my travel diary (lazy, I know), I go into a bit of detail. For that reason I’ll add bullet highlights summarizing each days’ adventures at the top of each new installment. Feel free to skip around!
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Hi all, sorry for the delay, I finally am getting back to this!
@Kaijai66 -- You're probably in Copenhagen now. I hope you're having a wonderful time and hopefully I'm not too late on these posts to be helpful!
@Northie - Hello again! I hope all is well with you. Thanks for your kind words about my Paris report, we had so much fun on this trip too!
@FuryFluffy -- Thanks for your note! Mom is my bestie and traveling companion of choice! Lucky me!
@Progol -- You nailed it! Mom's a hoot!
@Denisea -- Hello again!! At the rate I'm going, I'll get to the Sintra piece by xmas!
@Kaijai66 -- You're probably in Copenhagen now. I hope you're having a wonderful time and hopefully I'm not too late on these posts to be helpful!
@Northie - Hello again! I hope all is well with you. Thanks for your kind words about my Paris report, we had so much fun on this trip too!
@FuryFluffy -- Thanks for your note! Mom is my bestie and traveling companion of choice! Lucky me!
@Progol -- You nailed it! Mom's a hoot!
@Denisea -- Hello again!! At the rate I'm going, I'll get to the Sintra piece by xmas!
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DAYS 1/2 – WEDNESDAY NIGHT / THURSDAY
Highlights
- The Turkish Airlines Experience
- Hello, Four Seasons Sultanahmet!
- Hagia Sophia – You Blow My Mind!
- Striking a Deal in the Grand Bazaar
I took the Wednesday evening flight from JFK direct to Istanbul on Turkish Airlines. It was my first time flying Turkish and I was pretty impressed. I have always had a fascination with the country of Turkey – the intersection of cultures, the artwork and the legendary bargaining in the bazaars! But who knew that even the flight over would provide an opportunity to hone my bargaining skills?
Due to my relatively last minute availability for this great trip, I had ended up in an interior seat in the middle of the economy cabin. If there’s anything I hate in life, it is being stuck in the middle seat on a long flight, so, of course, when the flight attendant came around and asked if anyone wanted to trade for an aisle, I leapt at the chance. I was all smiles until I was led to the row right behind the front of the cabin, which was completely filled with parents with young children (think under the age of 2!). Thus the stage was set for what would be the noisiest flight of my life . . . and right then and there, I made a mental note to myself – do your due diligence before buying anything in Turkey!
It was the early afternoon on Thursday when I arrived in Istanbul. I took a cab from the airport to the hotel where Mom was staying – the Four Seasons Sultanahmet. OMG was this place fabulous!!! Canary yellow buildings, a landscaped courtyard, beautiful stone work, decorations recalling the regal Ottoman past, and all smack in the center of the action of old Istanbul! Not a cheap place, but luckily Mom was treating!
After a smooth and friendly check in, I made my way to our room – a premium room with two queens. Nice, large, clean. And when I opened the closet and saw Mom’s collection of button-up dress shirts (mostly white) with structured collars, colorful slacks and skirts, all neatly hanging in careful arrangement, along with more footwear choices than I will ever own, I knew for certain I was in the right room!
It felt good to clean up after the flight and, wanting to live up to my promise to Mom, I took some extra time to primp, eventually settling on a pair of white jeans and a navy dress shirt which I tucked into a woven leather belt and matching wedges. As often happens when I spend time with Mom, I did feel a bit like I was going to a country club, but a promise is a promise!
Istanbul!
How amazing it was, for the first time, to hear the call to prayer sounding from the majestic mosques of Sultanahmet. How fascinating to see women in burqas walking alongside women in Dior (in a place other than South Kensington!)! I was immediately drawn to the exoticism of the city and couldn’t wait to explore.
Like me, Mom is a restless type when it comes to exploring new places, so we had arranged to meet at the Hagia Sophia and not waste any of our precious time in Istanbul. Mom had bought tickets in advance for us and so we did not have to wait long to enter.
The second we entered, one word popped into my brain: “WOW!” How anyone had the audacity to contemplate building – let alone build – such a magnificent structure in the sixth century, I will never understand! Magnificent is really the only word for it – the swooping arches and impossibly life-like frescos... I know that there may be those who disagree with me, but if you only have time to visit one site in Istanbul, this should be it.
Based on its proximity to Hagia Sophia, our next stop was the Blue Mosque. I am an architecture fan, so I was completely fixated on the minarets and domes of this marvel of a building as we removed our footwear and searched for a place to securely leave them during our visit (we eventually bribed a young boy to look after them!). Ever prepared, Mom produced two scarves from her bag and we draped them over our heads and entered the Blue Mosque.
Like the outside, the inside did not disappoint. It was fascinating to watch as tourists milled around, most of them respectfully (but some cluelessly and rudely taking pictures – if you visit, please don’t do that!), while the faithful prayed. We didn’t spend very long at the Blue Mosque, but even a short visit made a great impression.
Mom and I are both avid shoppers, so where else would our next stop be, but the Grand Bazaar! It was a pleasant, not too long stroll to get there from the Blue Mosque and we enjoyed our walk as the thriving metropolis pulsated around us: hawkers hawked, boys whizzed by on bikes calling out to us and women chatted on cellphones. To call Istanbul merely “lively” would be a great understatement! After some confusion, we found an entrance to the bazaar. Mom turned to me and meticulously folded back the cuffs of her black dress shirt. “Time to bargain,” she said, flashing her whitest smile.
The Grand Bazaar is an amazing place. Think about any item that you can name and you can get it there. Fashion? Check. Jewelry? Check. Carpets? Check. Leather? Check. Electronics? Check. Fake leather? Check. It really is a mix between Wal-mart, China Town and Disney, all in the magical setting of Istanbul.
I’ve heard the expression “getting lost in the bazaar” and that was precisely our goal. In contrast to most of the Turkish locals, Mom and I are both blonde, so we pretty much stuck out like sore thumbs. The result was that aggressive – by western standards – hawkers called us out, came up to us and tried to start conversations to entice us to buy every piece of junk you could fathom. Even if the pitches were aggressive and we always seemed to have a bit more company than we might have liked as we walked through the bazaar’s ancient corridors, the experience was in no way threatening and we had a great time browsing among the tourists and locals. For what it is worth, my suggestion would be that if you are a solo traveler visiting the Grand Bazaar, or Turkey, just expect a bit more attention then is ordinary and convince yourself that it is part of the fun and go with it. It is well worth the hassle.
Eventually we found our way to a merchant selling nice costume jewelry and a turquoise necklace caught Mom’s eye. The shopkeeper eagerly offered to let her try it on, which Mom did. We both agreed that it looked quite nice under the collar of her black dress shirt. Game on!
Mom: What do you want for it?
Vendor: It is real turquoise.
Mom: Yes. It is lovely.
Vendor: It is very rare, real turquoise. Most you see here . . . <waves his hand broadly> . . . fakes. But mine, real. All real.
Mom: Of course. It is lovely. And so is your shop.
Vendor: Thank you. Yes.
Mom: How much for the necklace?
Vendor: One Thousand Turkish Lira.
Mom: <Politely inspecting the goods>. I think that’s a little high. <She waits for the Vendor to resume>
Vendor: I could do 900.
Mom: <Twirls her hair and plays with the collar of her shirt, but stays silent.>
Vendor: 800.
Mom: I think it is high still. I would like this as a souvenir, but we have the same in our country too.
Vendor: What can you do?
Mom: 350.
Vendor: <Laughs> No, No. It’s too low.
Mom: 400 is all I can do.
Vendor: <Pensive>.
Mom: So?
Vendor: For two such nice ladies, I make you deal. Best price. 450.
Mom: <Breaks into a smile>. It’s a deal. <Extends a handshake to the vendor>.
The item was bagged and we continued on our way. Soon we stopped into another store selling ceramic pottery. I have always had a thing for pottery, so Mom watched as I inspected the wares. “Darling, you should get something” she prodded eagerly. I nodded and picked up my favorite ceramic jug and brought it to the vendor. “Remember to negotiate,” Mom whispered in my ear, as a trainer might a boxer heading into the ring.
But you know what? She was completely right! I, too, walked away with the item at a significantly discounted price off of the asking. Maybe I still got gouged, who knows, but I had so much fun. Negotiating in the Grand Bazaar is a kind of sport and everyone should participate during a visit to Istanbul!
We had shopped to our hearts content and were about to leave the bazaar, when suddenly Mom's face lit up. "Darling, look at that pocket watch! It's perfect for Hunter. I should buy it for him!" (Hunter is Mom's boyfriend of about six months). But then, a mischievous twinkle came into her eye. I held my breath. "Actually, darling, let's have him bargain for it in the bazaar!"
Mom reached into her pocket and pulled out her phone and face-timed Hunter. I did some quick math and realized it would be the morning in California, where Hunter lives. Hunter picked up, looking unsuspecting and freshly awakened from a good night's sleep. Mom and I waived at him with our biggest smiles.
Hunter: Hi ladies!
Mom: Hi, Darling. Nevermind too much pleasantness. We're in the grand bazaar.
Mom whirled the phone around for him to see.
Hunter: Wow!
Mom: I bought this necklace. <Mom panned the phone to show off the turquoise around her neck>.
Hunter: It's fabulous on you! I love it dear!
Mom: And now. Hunter, darling, you're going to perhaps buy something. You're going to bargain with this man for this lovely pocket watch!
<Mom flashed the silver antique in front of the screen before panning to the smiling vendor.>
Hunter: I am?
Mom: Yes, dear. He wants 400 Turkish Lira for it. By the way the exchange rate is 3 to 1. Now go!
To my amazement, Hunter was a good study and proceeded to bargain with the somewhat bewildered shopkeeper over the screen. Eventually they settled at 250 Turkish Lira, which I thought was about right.
Mom: Very good, Hunter dear! <Mom smiled brightly into the phone>. Now run along and enjoy your morning and we will speak later!
So that was another first for me -- a virtual negotiation during my first visit to the grand bazaar!
It was the early evening and the jet lag was by now catching up to me. So we made our way back to the Four Seasons for dinner at the Seasons Restaurant. The restaurant is located in the courtyard of the hotel, in a beautiful setting, and the food was very good. While I personally prefer to eat outside of hotels when travelling, after a first eventful day in never-a-dull-moment Istanbul, Seasons was a perfect and easy choice!
Highlights
- The Turkish Airlines Experience
- Hello, Four Seasons Sultanahmet!
- Hagia Sophia – You Blow My Mind!
- Striking a Deal in the Grand Bazaar
I took the Wednesday evening flight from JFK direct to Istanbul on Turkish Airlines. It was my first time flying Turkish and I was pretty impressed. I have always had a fascination with the country of Turkey – the intersection of cultures, the artwork and the legendary bargaining in the bazaars! But who knew that even the flight over would provide an opportunity to hone my bargaining skills?
Due to my relatively last minute availability for this great trip, I had ended up in an interior seat in the middle of the economy cabin. If there’s anything I hate in life, it is being stuck in the middle seat on a long flight, so, of course, when the flight attendant came around and asked if anyone wanted to trade for an aisle, I leapt at the chance. I was all smiles until I was led to the row right behind the front of the cabin, which was completely filled with parents with young children (think under the age of 2!). Thus the stage was set for what would be the noisiest flight of my life . . . and right then and there, I made a mental note to myself – do your due diligence before buying anything in Turkey!
It was the early afternoon on Thursday when I arrived in Istanbul. I took a cab from the airport to the hotel where Mom was staying – the Four Seasons Sultanahmet. OMG was this place fabulous!!! Canary yellow buildings, a landscaped courtyard, beautiful stone work, decorations recalling the regal Ottoman past, and all smack in the center of the action of old Istanbul! Not a cheap place, but luckily Mom was treating!
After a smooth and friendly check in, I made my way to our room – a premium room with two queens. Nice, large, clean. And when I opened the closet and saw Mom’s collection of button-up dress shirts (mostly white) with structured collars, colorful slacks and skirts, all neatly hanging in careful arrangement, along with more footwear choices than I will ever own, I knew for certain I was in the right room!
It felt good to clean up after the flight and, wanting to live up to my promise to Mom, I took some extra time to primp, eventually settling on a pair of white jeans and a navy dress shirt which I tucked into a woven leather belt and matching wedges. As often happens when I spend time with Mom, I did feel a bit like I was going to a country club, but a promise is a promise!
Istanbul!
How amazing it was, for the first time, to hear the call to prayer sounding from the majestic mosques of Sultanahmet. How fascinating to see women in burqas walking alongside women in Dior (in a place other than South Kensington!)! I was immediately drawn to the exoticism of the city and couldn’t wait to explore.
Like me, Mom is a restless type when it comes to exploring new places, so we had arranged to meet at the Hagia Sophia and not waste any of our precious time in Istanbul. Mom had bought tickets in advance for us and so we did not have to wait long to enter.
The second we entered, one word popped into my brain: “WOW!” How anyone had the audacity to contemplate building – let alone build – such a magnificent structure in the sixth century, I will never understand! Magnificent is really the only word for it – the swooping arches and impossibly life-like frescos... I know that there may be those who disagree with me, but if you only have time to visit one site in Istanbul, this should be it.
Based on its proximity to Hagia Sophia, our next stop was the Blue Mosque. I am an architecture fan, so I was completely fixated on the minarets and domes of this marvel of a building as we removed our footwear and searched for a place to securely leave them during our visit (we eventually bribed a young boy to look after them!). Ever prepared, Mom produced two scarves from her bag and we draped them over our heads and entered the Blue Mosque.
Like the outside, the inside did not disappoint. It was fascinating to watch as tourists milled around, most of them respectfully (but some cluelessly and rudely taking pictures – if you visit, please don’t do that!), while the faithful prayed. We didn’t spend very long at the Blue Mosque, but even a short visit made a great impression.
Mom and I are both avid shoppers, so where else would our next stop be, but the Grand Bazaar! It was a pleasant, not too long stroll to get there from the Blue Mosque and we enjoyed our walk as the thriving metropolis pulsated around us: hawkers hawked, boys whizzed by on bikes calling out to us and women chatted on cellphones. To call Istanbul merely “lively” would be a great understatement! After some confusion, we found an entrance to the bazaar. Mom turned to me and meticulously folded back the cuffs of her black dress shirt. “Time to bargain,” she said, flashing her whitest smile.
The Grand Bazaar is an amazing place. Think about any item that you can name and you can get it there. Fashion? Check. Jewelry? Check. Carpets? Check. Leather? Check. Electronics? Check. Fake leather? Check. It really is a mix between Wal-mart, China Town and Disney, all in the magical setting of Istanbul.
I’ve heard the expression “getting lost in the bazaar” and that was precisely our goal. In contrast to most of the Turkish locals, Mom and I are both blonde, so we pretty much stuck out like sore thumbs. The result was that aggressive – by western standards – hawkers called us out, came up to us and tried to start conversations to entice us to buy every piece of junk you could fathom. Even if the pitches were aggressive and we always seemed to have a bit more company than we might have liked as we walked through the bazaar’s ancient corridors, the experience was in no way threatening and we had a great time browsing among the tourists and locals. For what it is worth, my suggestion would be that if you are a solo traveler visiting the Grand Bazaar, or Turkey, just expect a bit more attention then is ordinary and convince yourself that it is part of the fun and go with it. It is well worth the hassle.
Eventually we found our way to a merchant selling nice costume jewelry and a turquoise necklace caught Mom’s eye. The shopkeeper eagerly offered to let her try it on, which Mom did. We both agreed that it looked quite nice under the collar of her black dress shirt. Game on!
Mom: What do you want for it?
Vendor: It is real turquoise.
Mom: Yes. It is lovely.
Vendor: It is very rare, real turquoise. Most you see here . . . <waves his hand broadly> . . . fakes. But mine, real. All real.
Mom: Of course. It is lovely. And so is your shop.
Vendor: Thank you. Yes.
Mom: How much for the necklace?
Vendor: One Thousand Turkish Lira.
Mom: <Politely inspecting the goods>. I think that’s a little high. <She waits for the Vendor to resume>
Vendor: I could do 900.
Mom: <Twirls her hair and plays with the collar of her shirt, but stays silent.>
Vendor: 800.
Mom: I think it is high still. I would like this as a souvenir, but we have the same in our country too.
Vendor: What can you do?
Mom: 350.
Vendor: <Laughs> No, No. It’s too low.
Mom: 400 is all I can do.
Vendor: <Pensive>.
Mom: So?
Vendor: For two such nice ladies, I make you deal. Best price. 450.
Mom: <Breaks into a smile>. It’s a deal. <Extends a handshake to the vendor>.
The item was bagged and we continued on our way. Soon we stopped into another store selling ceramic pottery. I have always had a thing for pottery, so Mom watched as I inspected the wares. “Darling, you should get something” she prodded eagerly. I nodded and picked up my favorite ceramic jug and brought it to the vendor. “Remember to negotiate,” Mom whispered in my ear, as a trainer might a boxer heading into the ring.
But you know what? She was completely right! I, too, walked away with the item at a significantly discounted price off of the asking. Maybe I still got gouged, who knows, but I had so much fun. Negotiating in the Grand Bazaar is a kind of sport and everyone should participate during a visit to Istanbul!
We had shopped to our hearts content and were about to leave the bazaar, when suddenly Mom's face lit up. "Darling, look at that pocket watch! It's perfect for Hunter. I should buy it for him!" (Hunter is Mom's boyfriend of about six months). But then, a mischievous twinkle came into her eye. I held my breath. "Actually, darling, let's have him bargain for it in the bazaar!"
Mom reached into her pocket and pulled out her phone and face-timed Hunter. I did some quick math and realized it would be the morning in California, where Hunter lives. Hunter picked up, looking unsuspecting and freshly awakened from a good night's sleep. Mom and I waived at him with our biggest smiles.
Hunter: Hi ladies!
Mom: Hi, Darling. Nevermind too much pleasantness. We're in the grand bazaar.
Mom whirled the phone around for him to see.
Hunter: Wow!
Mom: I bought this necklace. <Mom panned the phone to show off the turquoise around her neck>.
Hunter: It's fabulous on you! I love it dear!
Mom: And now. Hunter, darling, you're going to perhaps buy something. You're going to bargain with this man for this lovely pocket watch!
<Mom flashed the silver antique in front of the screen before panning to the smiling vendor.>
Hunter: I am?
Mom: Yes, dear. He wants 400 Turkish Lira for it. By the way the exchange rate is 3 to 1. Now go!
To my amazement, Hunter was a good study and proceeded to bargain with the somewhat bewildered shopkeeper over the screen. Eventually they settled at 250 Turkish Lira, which I thought was about right.
Mom: Very good, Hunter dear! <Mom smiled brightly into the phone>. Now run along and enjoy your morning and we will speak later!
So that was another first for me -- a virtual negotiation during my first visit to the grand bazaar!
It was the early evening and the jet lag was by now catching up to me. So we made our way back to the Four Seasons for dinner at the Seasons Restaurant. The restaurant is located in the courtyard of the hotel, in a beautiful setting, and the food was very good. While I personally prefer to eat outside of hotels when travelling, after a first eventful day in never-a-dull-moment Istanbul, Seasons was a perfect and easy choice!
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DAY 3 – FRIDAY – ISTANBUL
Highlights
- We visit Topkapi Palace
- We walk to the spice market
- We visit European Istanbul, have a great meal and make new friends.
When it comes to travel, Mom and I are kindred spirits and do our best to wake up early in the morning to make the most of our time. So the next morning I slept until 7:30 a.m. to fend off my jet lag and met Mom downstairs for a delicious Turkish breakfast. Predictably, she’d already used the fitness center, primped for the day and was already in the midst of reading her second newspaper! ☺
Our first stop of the day was the Topkapi Palace. We arrived right as it opened and mercifully avoided the notoriously long lines that I have heard so much about. Still, lines to see Topkapi are justified because Topkapi is really another can’t miss attraction. Yes, it is another palace, but it is a palace completely unlike any other in the world – the stuff of dreams.
Topkaki Palace is actually a collection of buildings, which, altogether, formed the homes of sultans – the folks who ran the Ottoman Empire. Apart from incredible mosaic tiles and abundant views of Istanbul’s waterways, Topkapi Palace also boasts an abundance of neat Islamic artifacts and a real harem. I happen to love mosaic and tiles, so I was blown away by the craftsmanship and the mélange of colors in which the sultans lived out their pampered lives. But in a classic example of different strokes for different folks, Mom must have remarked to me no fewer than four times, “It’s lovely, dear, but it’s just too much for me! Too much!” Still, ever a true preppie, a few rooms did evoke gasps of pleasure from her, including one with a well-adorned pink dome which prompted her to declare with delight, “it’s like having a Lilly Pulitzer print on your ceiling!”
After seeing the sights at Topkapi Palace, we decided to take a stroll through Sultanahmet to the spice market. The walk was again very pleasant – it is just so amazing to stroll through a city where ancient and modern merge so seamlessly and so vibrantly! On the way to the spice market, we walked past the Rustem Pasha mosque. This had been mentioned in several guidebooks I had consulted, so I suggested we stop in. It was worth a visit – less massive than the Blue Mosque, but with magnificent tile work. Fascinating!
Finally we arrived at the Spice Market. I had been envisioning a spectacle to rival the intrigue of the Grand Bazaar, but this was nothing of the sort. Yes, the colorful, pyramidal displays of fragrant spices were beautiful to behold, and yes, you don’t get that sort of thing with regularity in the USA, but still, in the exotic confines of Istanbul, it all felt a bit underwhelming.
It was by this point the early afternoon, so we decided to walk across the Galata Bridge to the European side of the city. I have to say that no trip to Istanbul can possibly be complete without a walk across this iconic bridge – but note, as you are enjoying the fantastic views of the city, watch out for the fishermens’ lines!
If you haven’t noticed by now, Mom and I are walkers, so we took the opportunity to take a long, leisurely stroll through European Istanbul. We passed the Galata Tower – very tall, but we decided not to wait in line and to savor instead the views of Istanbul that seemed to be revealed with each twist and turn as we navigated the storied streets in the general direction of Istiklal Caddesi.
How neat it was, after seeing the sights of Sultanahmet, to walk down Istiklal Caddesi. If in the former head scarves predominated, here Mom and I felt right at home among the fashionably styled, European leaning component of the population roaming the streets as the day gave way to evening. And how much fun it was to stop here or there for a Turkish coffee and to sample Turkish delight! Mom loved the pistachio, but I liked the rose . . . yum, yum, yum!
It was the evening by this time, so Mom and I made our way over to Asmali Cavit, a Meyhane – or tavern – that had been recommended to me as “good and lively” by a former co-worker who was for many years an Istanbul resident. From the moment we sat down at the restaurant, we could tell this was going to be a treat. The restaurant was busy, filled with people happily eating at tables quite close to one another, and it was pretty much dumb luck that we were able to score a table, but I am glad it worked out. We are both meze lovers, and couldn’t stop pointing at this and that as the waiters pushed around a cart showing off the days’ offerings. The food was simple, delicious and not frilly – our favorite dishes were the sardines, eggplant and beets. If you like Turkish food, it’s worth checking out.
Mom and I do like our drinks, so of course we had to try the “national” drink of Turkey – Raki. Made from distilled grapes and aniseed, the flavor reminded me of Sambuca or Ouzo. We each ordered a shot, which came in a nice 4 cl glass marked yeni raki and accepted when the waiter offered to mix the spirit with water and ice. Mom was fascinated by the way the raki turned milky white when mixed with water, but I have to admit I was more eager to taste it than have a chemistry lesson, so we cheersed and sipped. Yum! And then we chased it with one of Turkey’s fabulously dry Efes beers, which I have to say was also delicious! (I should note that the Prime Minister of Turkey, Recep Erdogan, has been seeking to replace Raki with Aryan as the national drink of Turkey . . . somehow, I think it will be an uphill battle for a salted yogurt drink to unseat a time honored punchy favorite!).
Of the countries I have traveled to, I have to say that Turkey has some of the friendliest people I have ever met. We had finished our meal and were sitting sipping our raki and plotting our next move, when the gentleman at the table next to us turned to Mom and said, “you are American, yes?”
I have to admit that being asked this question in Turkey, even in the comfortable confines of a western-leaning Meyhane, my antennae went up. But this proved to be completely unnecessary. And while I might have nodded politely and asked for the check, Mom, happily loosened up and pleasantly extroverted after a beer and some raki, struck up a conversation.
Mom: Yes we are!
Osman: Ah! I love Americans! I lived there!
Mom: So do we and so we do we! Where did you live?
Osman: San Francisco!
Mom: Me too! Tooooo funny!
Osman: My partner, Ali, and I love your necklace.
<Mom fiddles with her purchase from the bazaar inside the collar of her red shirt dress>
Osman: Most Americans we meet are wearing junk made in China. But I think you got the real thing!
Mom: Luck, I guess!
Osman: No, it is very well done! But I assume you got it here?
Mom: Yes, in the bazaar! And my daughter bargained skillfully for a pottery piece as well.
Osman: They have everything in the bazaar!
Mom: But you MUST bargain! That’s the fun!
Osman: Of course, yes! In the states buying things is so dull.
Mom: I don’t know. Perhaps as a society we just like the predictability and ease of things.
Osman: Ah, but how boring I find that! I guess it’s different strokes for different folks.
Mom: Vive la difference!
<We all cheers with our raki> ☺
Thus began one of those great travelers’ conversations that covered everything under the sun from Hagia Sophia and Coit Tower, to Galata and the Golden Gate. Eventually, I checked my watch. Some how it was already 10 p.m. Between its sights and friendly locals, I gather that Istanbul is the kind of place where the day can just fly away from you! So we politely said our goodbyes, collected Ali and Osman’s e-mails, and got to our feet and flagged down a cab.
And not fully over the jet lag yet, I was delighted to arrive back at a comfortable bed at the Four Seasons after a day well spent!
Highlights
- We visit Topkapi Palace
- We walk to the spice market
- We visit European Istanbul, have a great meal and make new friends.
When it comes to travel, Mom and I are kindred spirits and do our best to wake up early in the morning to make the most of our time. So the next morning I slept until 7:30 a.m. to fend off my jet lag and met Mom downstairs for a delicious Turkish breakfast. Predictably, she’d already used the fitness center, primped for the day and was already in the midst of reading her second newspaper! ☺
Our first stop of the day was the Topkapi Palace. We arrived right as it opened and mercifully avoided the notoriously long lines that I have heard so much about. Still, lines to see Topkapi are justified because Topkapi is really another can’t miss attraction. Yes, it is another palace, but it is a palace completely unlike any other in the world – the stuff of dreams.
Topkaki Palace is actually a collection of buildings, which, altogether, formed the homes of sultans – the folks who ran the Ottoman Empire. Apart from incredible mosaic tiles and abundant views of Istanbul’s waterways, Topkapi Palace also boasts an abundance of neat Islamic artifacts and a real harem. I happen to love mosaic and tiles, so I was blown away by the craftsmanship and the mélange of colors in which the sultans lived out their pampered lives. But in a classic example of different strokes for different folks, Mom must have remarked to me no fewer than four times, “It’s lovely, dear, but it’s just too much for me! Too much!” Still, ever a true preppie, a few rooms did evoke gasps of pleasure from her, including one with a well-adorned pink dome which prompted her to declare with delight, “it’s like having a Lilly Pulitzer print on your ceiling!”
After seeing the sights at Topkapi Palace, we decided to take a stroll through Sultanahmet to the spice market. The walk was again very pleasant – it is just so amazing to stroll through a city where ancient and modern merge so seamlessly and so vibrantly! On the way to the spice market, we walked past the Rustem Pasha mosque. This had been mentioned in several guidebooks I had consulted, so I suggested we stop in. It was worth a visit – less massive than the Blue Mosque, but with magnificent tile work. Fascinating!
Finally we arrived at the Spice Market. I had been envisioning a spectacle to rival the intrigue of the Grand Bazaar, but this was nothing of the sort. Yes, the colorful, pyramidal displays of fragrant spices were beautiful to behold, and yes, you don’t get that sort of thing with regularity in the USA, but still, in the exotic confines of Istanbul, it all felt a bit underwhelming.
It was by this point the early afternoon, so we decided to walk across the Galata Bridge to the European side of the city. I have to say that no trip to Istanbul can possibly be complete without a walk across this iconic bridge – but note, as you are enjoying the fantastic views of the city, watch out for the fishermens’ lines!
If you haven’t noticed by now, Mom and I are walkers, so we took the opportunity to take a long, leisurely stroll through European Istanbul. We passed the Galata Tower – very tall, but we decided not to wait in line and to savor instead the views of Istanbul that seemed to be revealed with each twist and turn as we navigated the storied streets in the general direction of Istiklal Caddesi.
How neat it was, after seeing the sights of Sultanahmet, to walk down Istiklal Caddesi. If in the former head scarves predominated, here Mom and I felt right at home among the fashionably styled, European leaning component of the population roaming the streets as the day gave way to evening. And how much fun it was to stop here or there for a Turkish coffee and to sample Turkish delight! Mom loved the pistachio, but I liked the rose . . . yum, yum, yum!
It was the evening by this time, so Mom and I made our way over to Asmali Cavit, a Meyhane – or tavern – that had been recommended to me as “good and lively” by a former co-worker who was for many years an Istanbul resident. From the moment we sat down at the restaurant, we could tell this was going to be a treat. The restaurant was busy, filled with people happily eating at tables quite close to one another, and it was pretty much dumb luck that we were able to score a table, but I am glad it worked out. We are both meze lovers, and couldn’t stop pointing at this and that as the waiters pushed around a cart showing off the days’ offerings. The food was simple, delicious and not frilly – our favorite dishes were the sardines, eggplant and beets. If you like Turkish food, it’s worth checking out.
Mom and I do like our drinks, so of course we had to try the “national” drink of Turkey – Raki. Made from distilled grapes and aniseed, the flavor reminded me of Sambuca or Ouzo. We each ordered a shot, which came in a nice 4 cl glass marked yeni raki and accepted when the waiter offered to mix the spirit with water and ice. Mom was fascinated by the way the raki turned milky white when mixed with water, but I have to admit I was more eager to taste it than have a chemistry lesson, so we cheersed and sipped. Yum! And then we chased it with one of Turkey’s fabulously dry Efes beers, which I have to say was also delicious! (I should note that the Prime Minister of Turkey, Recep Erdogan, has been seeking to replace Raki with Aryan as the national drink of Turkey . . . somehow, I think it will be an uphill battle for a salted yogurt drink to unseat a time honored punchy favorite!).
Of the countries I have traveled to, I have to say that Turkey has some of the friendliest people I have ever met. We had finished our meal and were sitting sipping our raki and plotting our next move, when the gentleman at the table next to us turned to Mom and said, “you are American, yes?”
I have to admit that being asked this question in Turkey, even in the comfortable confines of a western-leaning Meyhane, my antennae went up. But this proved to be completely unnecessary. And while I might have nodded politely and asked for the check, Mom, happily loosened up and pleasantly extroverted after a beer and some raki, struck up a conversation.
Mom: Yes we are!
Osman: Ah! I love Americans! I lived there!
Mom: So do we and so we do we! Where did you live?
Osman: San Francisco!
Mom: Me too! Tooooo funny!
Osman: My partner, Ali, and I love your necklace.
<Mom fiddles with her purchase from the bazaar inside the collar of her red shirt dress>
Osman: Most Americans we meet are wearing junk made in China. But I think you got the real thing!
Mom: Luck, I guess!
Osman: No, it is very well done! But I assume you got it here?
Mom: Yes, in the bazaar! And my daughter bargained skillfully for a pottery piece as well.
Osman: They have everything in the bazaar!
Mom: But you MUST bargain! That’s the fun!
Osman: Of course, yes! In the states buying things is so dull.
Mom: I don’t know. Perhaps as a society we just like the predictability and ease of things.
Osman: Ah, but how boring I find that! I guess it’s different strokes for different folks.
Mom: Vive la difference!
<We all cheers with our raki> ☺
Thus began one of those great travelers’ conversations that covered everything under the sun from Hagia Sophia and Coit Tower, to Galata and the Golden Gate. Eventually, I checked my watch. Some how it was already 10 p.m. Between its sights and friendly locals, I gather that Istanbul is the kind of place where the day can just fly away from you! So we politely said our goodbyes, collected Ali and Osman’s e-mails, and got to our feet and flagged down a cab.
And not fully over the jet lag yet, I was delighted to arrive back at a comfortable bed at the Four Seasons after a day well spent!
#12
Thanks BostonBlonde, I thoroughly enjoyed your tale, on a day when I most needed it.
I applaud your & your mother's spirited engagement & enjoyment of your surroundings. May you have many happy trips together.
I applaud your & your mother's spirited engagement & enjoyment of your surroundings. May you have many happy trips together.
#13
Such fun, BostonBlonde.
I enjoyed my trip to Istanbul with my Mum, too... such a great city to explore, isn't it?
My Mum bought a great handbag in the Grand Bazaar, no bartering, just a "I'd like that bag, please" and the seller proceeds to extol the virtues of this fine bag, lots of unnecessary salesmanship on his part, to the point of using a lighter on it to show its' superior leather... at which my mother lost it and said "just sell me the bag!!!". No doubt she paid more than she needed to, but she loves that bag and it actually is very well made. Hasn't tested it in a fire situation yet, though
I enjoyed my trip to Istanbul with my Mum, too... such a great city to explore, isn't it?
My Mum bought a great handbag in the Grand Bazaar, no bartering, just a "I'd like that bag, please" and the seller proceeds to extol the virtues of this fine bag, lots of unnecessary salesmanship on his part, to the point of using a lighter on it to show its' superior leather... at which my mother lost it and said "just sell me the bag!!!". No doubt she paid more than she needed to, but she loves that bag and it actually is very well made. Hasn't tested it in a fire situation yet, though
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I've been waiting for this trip report! Your mother sounds very adventurous and young at heart. I am young at heart (and fashionable though not in your mom's price range) but not quite so adventurous when it comes to socializing.
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@Traceilee & Rhea58 -- Thanks for your nice notes! It was a fabulously fun trip and more is on the way!
@Bokhara2 -- Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad this report cheered you up. Writing trip reports always cheers me up -- talk about escapism from work!
@Adelaidean -- Yes, even though I short-changed it, Istanbul is totally incredible. I needed at least another two full days!! Your hilarious story about the purse is spot on -- now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure the vendor broke out a lighter and "tested" the necklace on it as well! Must be part of the business school curriculum over there!
@Marigross -- Thanks for your nice note. Mom is an original, I'll give her that. I, for one, haven't tried virtual shopping over a video chat, but I just might!
@Vicky -- Thanks for writing! You're comment made me laugh since I myself am not particularly fashionable and am definitely not in Mom's price range either! But it is fun to tag along for free when circumstances permit!
@Furyfluffy -- Thanks for your comments. What can I say, I lucked out with a pretty cool Mom (cooler than most of my friends anyway)... do make sure to go to Istanbul and the Grand Bazaar. It's incredible!!
@Belinda -- A lady never tells her age! (But, whispers Blondie, she's a vivacious 52 and I just turned 30...)
More soon...
@Bokhara2 -- Thank you for the kind words and I'm glad this report cheered you up. Writing trip reports always cheers me up -- talk about escapism from work!
@Adelaidean -- Yes, even though I short-changed it, Istanbul is totally incredible. I needed at least another two full days!! Your hilarious story about the purse is spot on -- now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure the vendor broke out a lighter and "tested" the necklace on it as well! Must be part of the business school curriculum over there!
@Marigross -- Thanks for your nice note. Mom is an original, I'll give her that. I, for one, haven't tried virtual shopping over a video chat, but I just might!
@Vicky -- Thanks for writing! You're comment made me laugh since I myself am not particularly fashionable and am definitely not in Mom's price range either! But it is fun to tag along for free when circumstances permit!
@Furyfluffy -- Thanks for your comments. What can I say, I lucked out with a pretty cool Mom (cooler than most of my friends anyway)... do make sure to go to Istanbul and the Grand Bazaar. It's incredible!!
@Belinda -- A lady never tells her age! (But, whispers Blondie, she's a vivacious 52 and I just turned 30...)
More soon...
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DAY 4 – SATURDAY – ISTANBUL TO COPENHAGEN
- A final stroll in Istanbul
- A harrowing drive to the Istanbul Airport
- A relaxing drive to the Admiral Hotel
- A brief visit to Nyhavn
The next morning, our last in Istanbul, we rose bright and early. After our typical workout, we primped and packed and took one last walk past the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Istanbul and is a positively wonderful city and I definitely shortchanged it – you need four days at a minimum, preferably five.
By late morning we made our way back to our hotel and got in our cab to the airport. I’ve always wanted to ride in a race car, and our driver, Mehmet’s taxi came close. A smiling and fearless older man of 60, he wove from lane to lane, barking in Turkish at his fellow drivers, all the while smiling into the rear view mirror at Mom (whose nails were tickling my forearm as she gripped it) and I as we tugged on our seatbelts in the back seat. There were definitely a few times when I could have sworn that we were up on two wheels!
Eventually we made it to the airport – two hours ahead of time consistent with Mom’s conservative requirements - and checked in. Already shaken from our ride and with time to kill, we decided it would be prudent to go and find a martini. So we did just that and passed the time before our flight catching up on magazines.
A short while later we boarded our flight and arrived uneventfully in Copenhagen. What a contrast from Istanbul! Our cab drivers really embodied the differences in these two cities. Our driver, Anders, was the polar opposite of Mehmet, and took us on a polite, orderly drive to the Admiral Hotel in Copenhagen where we were staying, all the while smiling attentively at us and always, without fail, using his turn signal. As we exited the cab, I couldn’t help but think about how big a world it is and the truism of the expression, different strokes for different folks!
The Admiral hotel was not as opulent as the Four Seasons, but great nonetheless. After check-in through the lobby which truthfully reminded me a little bit of a nautically themed airport, we made our way to a well-appointed room with a fantastic view of the water and the sprawling city. The room was clean and of a good size; since I wasn’t paying I can’t comment on the value, but I was happy. Mom immediately set to work unpacking her suitcase and arranging its contents in the closets, while I read up on Copenhagen.
It was the early evening by the time we left the room and we took a walk over to nearby Nyhavn, a lovely canal front district full of bars and outdoor restaurants. Nyhavn really seems to be a lifeblood of Copenhagen – filled with boat moorings and colorful buildings, you can really imagine what its cobblestone streets must have been like in the gritty days before tourism. Hans Christian Andersen used to live in this district and it was not hard to imagine that it must have been very inspiring given his fertile imagination.
It had been a long day of travel, so we didn’t walk too long before we picked an outdoor table at random at a place calling the Heering restaurant. It was a Saturday evening and Nyhavn was festive with people walking along the canal, so we ordered a refreshing Danish beer and had dinner, Mom a tasty piece of cod, while I had a mediocre chicken dish. But the people watching was fantastic – young people starting their evenings, a brave few with strollers navigating the cobblestones, while sat and reflected on the great differences between Copenhagen and Istanbul!
After dinner we headed back to our hotel for a good night’s rest, eager to begin the next day with fresh eyes for our adventures in Copenhagen.
- A final stroll in Istanbul
- A harrowing drive to the Istanbul Airport
- A relaxing drive to the Admiral Hotel
- A brief visit to Nyhavn
The next morning, our last in Istanbul, we rose bright and early. After our typical workout, we primped and packed and took one last walk past the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia. Istanbul and is a positively wonderful city and I definitely shortchanged it – you need four days at a minimum, preferably five.
By late morning we made our way back to our hotel and got in our cab to the airport. I’ve always wanted to ride in a race car, and our driver, Mehmet’s taxi came close. A smiling and fearless older man of 60, he wove from lane to lane, barking in Turkish at his fellow drivers, all the while smiling into the rear view mirror at Mom (whose nails were tickling my forearm as she gripped it) and I as we tugged on our seatbelts in the back seat. There were definitely a few times when I could have sworn that we were up on two wheels!
Eventually we made it to the airport – two hours ahead of time consistent with Mom’s conservative requirements - and checked in. Already shaken from our ride and with time to kill, we decided it would be prudent to go and find a martini. So we did just that and passed the time before our flight catching up on magazines.
A short while later we boarded our flight and arrived uneventfully in Copenhagen. What a contrast from Istanbul! Our cab drivers really embodied the differences in these two cities. Our driver, Anders, was the polar opposite of Mehmet, and took us on a polite, orderly drive to the Admiral Hotel in Copenhagen where we were staying, all the while smiling attentively at us and always, without fail, using his turn signal. As we exited the cab, I couldn’t help but think about how big a world it is and the truism of the expression, different strokes for different folks!
The Admiral hotel was not as opulent as the Four Seasons, but great nonetheless. After check-in through the lobby which truthfully reminded me a little bit of a nautically themed airport, we made our way to a well-appointed room with a fantastic view of the water and the sprawling city. The room was clean and of a good size; since I wasn’t paying I can’t comment on the value, but I was happy. Mom immediately set to work unpacking her suitcase and arranging its contents in the closets, while I read up on Copenhagen.
It was the early evening by the time we left the room and we took a walk over to nearby Nyhavn, a lovely canal front district full of bars and outdoor restaurants. Nyhavn really seems to be a lifeblood of Copenhagen – filled with boat moorings and colorful buildings, you can really imagine what its cobblestone streets must have been like in the gritty days before tourism. Hans Christian Andersen used to live in this district and it was not hard to imagine that it must have been very inspiring given his fertile imagination.
It had been a long day of travel, so we didn’t walk too long before we picked an outdoor table at random at a place calling the Heering restaurant. It was a Saturday evening and Nyhavn was festive with people walking along the canal, so we ordered a refreshing Danish beer and had dinner, Mom a tasty piece of cod, while I had a mediocre chicken dish. But the people watching was fantastic – young people starting their evenings, a brave few with strollers navigating the cobblestones, while sat and reflected on the great differences between Copenhagen and Istanbul!
After dinner we headed back to our hotel for a good night’s rest, eager to begin the next day with fresh eyes for our adventures in Copenhagen.
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DAY 5 – SUNDAY – COPENHAGEN
- A nice morning jog
- A visit to Christiansborg Palace
- Bistro Lunch
- Cruising on a Boat
- Dinner in Nyhavn
Sundays in Copenhagen are notoriously quiet (so I had read in the guidebooks and confirm to be the truth). But in a way it was splendid, as Mom and I treated ourselves to a later morning than usual and took time for a leisurely jog. The good folks at the hotel had recommended a lovely run along the waterfront (Larsens Plads) which spans from close to the hotel down to the famed Little Mermaid statue, and the star-shaped former fortress, Kastellet, beyond, so we donned our best athleisure and took off apace. I have to say even if she has 22 years of wear and tear on me, Mom definitely outpaced me and took the opportunity to drolly remark, “Darling, that’s it! We’ll need to find room for a treadmill in that tiny, new apartment of yours!” But the run was really lovely, all along the waterfront, past great old buildings and the Little Mermaid statue (already flocked with people) and gave a great daytime introduction to the city.
Back in the room, after primping and a quick breakfast, Mom and I decided that a quiet Copenhagen Sunday would be the perfect day to visit nearby Christiansborg Palace, located on the nearby island of Slotsholmen (don't you just love these Scandanavian names?!). And after a pleasant walk, we soon arrived at the palace.
I have to say that having recently visited Topkapi in Istanbul, I found Christiansborg Castle somewhat underwhelming. Was it large? Yes. Imposing? Of course. Regal? Yes, very regal indeed. But after Topkapi, it all felt a tad sterile. And certainly points were not won when upon arrival, we were notified that we needed to slip blue shoe covers over our footwear to enter certain rooms. Needless to say Mom was not thrilled with this situation.
Attendant: Please cover your shoes with these, Madam. <Hands blue shoe covers to Mom>
Mom: Oh, no, no.
Attendant: I'm sorry Madam, you must . . .
Mom: But I tread very lightly!
Attendant: <Looks unimpressed>
Mom: <Getting Desperate> I even wore ballet flats.
Attendant: I do not doubt it Madam, but . . .
Mom: I have nice wooden floors at home. No scratches! <Mom turns to me>. Darling, show the man a picture of my living room!
Me: Mom, I don't have a picture of your living room.
Attendant: I'm sorry, Madam. <Smiles politely as he extends the shoe covers in her direction>.
And yes, it was pretty priceless to see Mom shudder as she reluctantly slipped the dodgy, hospital-like shoe covers over her treasured leopard print ballet flats and whispered to them, "sorry girls!".
The visit to the palace was interesting enough and probably merits a stop if you are in Copenhagen. The kitchen was really neat -- with its brick-worked floors and copper pots, which I positively loved! And the Great Hall of the palace was well worth the price of admission alone -- the tapestries lining the wall are a can't miss attraction. I say this swallowing my pride since, as I confided in Mom, most of the tapestries on the wall are larger than my New York apartment!
All that time spent in the kitchens had worked up our appetites, so after having exhausted Christiansborg, another short stroll brought us to a nearby café which had been recommended to us for brunch called Frenchy. Mom and I both LOVED this place. Simple décor -- think lots of wood and cute stools to perch on -- simple food -- simply delicious! Mom had the French breakfast, which came with just about everything you'd expect - eggs, yogurt and a small crepe - and I treated myself to a Croque Monsieur (hey, I went for a run on vacation, I deserve it!). And we washed it down with delicious coffee. All in all, it was the perfect stop for a lazy(ish) Sunday afternoon.
It was by now 3:00 in the afternoon and we made our way back to Nyhavn where we had decided to board a small canal boat for a cruise around Copenhagen. Mom and I both love being out on the water, but be warned -- in chilly Scandanavia, being on the water brings down the temperature at least 10 degrees. Needless to say, we were both grateful that we had tied sweaters around our shoulders before leaving the hotel that morning and put them quickly to good use! The boat tour was pretty neat -- it covered a lot of ground and it was fun to sail along the city, seeing palaces, the opera house and, of course, our old friend the little mermaid. The tour lasted a little more than an hour and we both really enjoyed it.
Happily back on land, we made our way back to the hotel for a quick siesta before venturing out in search of a Sunday night dinner in quiet Copenhagen. We had been warned in advance that many restaurants are closed on Sundays in Copenhagen and while we might have liked more choice, there was something refreshing about the fact that they allow themselves a day off. We Americans should really consider following suit!
Returning to Nyhavn, we soon happened on a wharfside restaurant called Cap Horn. The best way to describe Cap Horn is carefully straddling the divide between authentic and kitsch. As for the authentic -- the worn floors, the fire place and the general atmosphere were totally superb. I could easily imagine what this place must have been like during the years before Nyhavn was transformed into a tourist hub. As for the kitsch – it was amply represented by the tablecloths, the napkins and the many, many examples of bric-a-brac that were on display all over the restaurant. In any event, the food was pretty good, even if the menu was a little limited. We both started with a glass of champagne, then had cod (a menu staple in Copenhagen) as our main courses, which we each washed down with a Danish beer. On the whole, we were pretty pleased with our choices for a low expectations Sunday night dinner.
It was around 9:30 when we left the restaurant and a short walk back to the hotel was exercise enough to leave me grateful for a comfortable bed and a good night's sleep after an exciting day!
- A nice morning jog
- A visit to Christiansborg Palace
- Bistro Lunch
- Cruising on a Boat
- Dinner in Nyhavn
Sundays in Copenhagen are notoriously quiet (so I had read in the guidebooks and confirm to be the truth). But in a way it was splendid, as Mom and I treated ourselves to a later morning than usual and took time for a leisurely jog. The good folks at the hotel had recommended a lovely run along the waterfront (Larsens Plads) which spans from close to the hotel down to the famed Little Mermaid statue, and the star-shaped former fortress, Kastellet, beyond, so we donned our best athleisure and took off apace. I have to say even if she has 22 years of wear and tear on me, Mom definitely outpaced me and took the opportunity to drolly remark, “Darling, that’s it! We’ll need to find room for a treadmill in that tiny, new apartment of yours!” But the run was really lovely, all along the waterfront, past great old buildings and the Little Mermaid statue (already flocked with people) and gave a great daytime introduction to the city.
Back in the room, after primping and a quick breakfast, Mom and I decided that a quiet Copenhagen Sunday would be the perfect day to visit nearby Christiansborg Palace, located on the nearby island of Slotsholmen (don't you just love these Scandanavian names?!). And after a pleasant walk, we soon arrived at the palace.
I have to say that having recently visited Topkapi in Istanbul, I found Christiansborg Castle somewhat underwhelming. Was it large? Yes. Imposing? Of course. Regal? Yes, very regal indeed. But after Topkapi, it all felt a tad sterile. And certainly points were not won when upon arrival, we were notified that we needed to slip blue shoe covers over our footwear to enter certain rooms. Needless to say Mom was not thrilled with this situation.
Attendant: Please cover your shoes with these, Madam. <Hands blue shoe covers to Mom>
Mom: Oh, no, no.
Attendant: I'm sorry Madam, you must . . .
Mom: But I tread very lightly!
Attendant: <Looks unimpressed>
Mom: <Getting Desperate> I even wore ballet flats.
Attendant: I do not doubt it Madam, but . . .
Mom: I have nice wooden floors at home. No scratches! <Mom turns to me>. Darling, show the man a picture of my living room!
Me: Mom, I don't have a picture of your living room.
Attendant: I'm sorry, Madam. <Smiles politely as he extends the shoe covers in her direction>.
And yes, it was pretty priceless to see Mom shudder as she reluctantly slipped the dodgy, hospital-like shoe covers over her treasured leopard print ballet flats and whispered to them, "sorry girls!".
The visit to the palace was interesting enough and probably merits a stop if you are in Copenhagen. The kitchen was really neat -- with its brick-worked floors and copper pots, which I positively loved! And the Great Hall of the palace was well worth the price of admission alone -- the tapestries lining the wall are a can't miss attraction. I say this swallowing my pride since, as I confided in Mom, most of the tapestries on the wall are larger than my New York apartment!
All that time spent in the kitchens had worked up our appetites, so after having exhausted Christiansborg, another short stroll brought us to a nearby café which had been recommended to us for brunch called Frenchy. Mom and I both LOVED this place. Simple décor -- think lots of wood and cute stools to perch on -- simple food -- simply delicious! Mom had the French breakfast, which came with just about everything you'd expect - eggs, yogurt and a small crepe - and I treated myself to a Croque Monsieur (hey, I went for a run on vacation, I deserve it!). And we washed it down with delicious coffee. All in all, it was the perfect stop for a lazy(ish) Sunday afternoon.
It was by now 3:00 in the afternoon and we made our way back to Nyhavn where we had decided to board a small canal boat for a cruise around Copenhagen. Mom and I both love being out on the water, but be warned -- in chilly Scandanavia, being on the water brings down the temperature at least 10 degrees. Needless to say, we were both grateful that we had tied sweaters around our shoulders before leaving the hotel that morning and put them quickly to good use! The boat tour was pretty neat -- it covered a lot of ground and it was fun to sail along the city, seeing palaces, the opera house and, of course, our old friend the little mermaid. The tour lasted a little more than an hour and we both really enjoyed it.
Happily back on land, we made our way back to the hotel for a quick siesta before venturing out in search of a Sunday night dinner in quiet Copenhagen. We had been warned in advance that many restaurants are closed on Sundays in Copenhagen and while we might have liked more choice, there was something refreshing about the fact that they allow themselves a day off. We Americans should really consider following suit!
Returning to Nyhavn, we soon happened on a wharfside restaurant called Cap Horn. The best way to describe Cap Horn is carefully straddling the divide between authentic and kitsch. As for the authentic -- the worn floors, the fire place and the general atmosphere were totally superb. I could easily imagine what this place must have been like during the years before Nyhavn was transformed into a tourist hub. As for the kitsch – it was amply represented by the tablecloths, the napkins and the many, many examples of bric-a-brac that were on display all over the restaurant. In any event, the food was pretty good, even if the menu was a little limited. We both started with a glass of champagne, then had cod (a menu staple in Copenhagen) as our main courses, which we each washed down with a Danish beer. On the whole, we were pretty pleased with our choices for a low expectations Sunday night dinner.
It was around 9:30 when we left the restaurant and a short walk back to the hotel was exercise enough to leave me grateful for a comfortable bed and a good night's sleep after an exciting day!