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Area with nicest countryside--Assisi, Veneto or Emilia?

Area with nicest countryside--Assisi, Veneto or Emilia?

Old Aug 18th, 2017, 06:49 PM
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Area with nicest countryside--Assisi, Veneto or Emilia?

My husband and I are still (we've had lots of different ideas we've been tossing around and discarding) trying to plan a 1st half of October trip. We know we want to do a cycle tour that is relatively easy for seniors. We'd originally thought Puglia, and then we considered Croatia. Now we've kind of backed off those ideas and have found a few intriguing tours in other areas run by small, independent operators rather than the larger mega-size companies that seem to dominate self-guided cycling tours in Europe. I am looking at three different possibilities and would like some feedback on how interesting the areas themselves are. Or, if you think overall it is better choice, tell me to take another look at Puglia.

We are not looking for major tourist sites and don't need to do what everyone else seems to do. Lesser visited areas are fine if they are quality and meet our needs. What we are looking for is interesting scenery with some small, charming towns to visit while we bike during the day. If there are a couple nice tourist sites we could visit, that would be a bonus but not critical. What we are more looking for is overall ambiance of the area. We prefer lots of cute small towns over just riding in the agricultural fields, and we prefer smaller towns rather than having to cycle into major cities that have lots of traffic and congestion.

We are also (I think) planning to spend at least a week in Liguria on this trip.Obviously, some of these areas more easily fit into that itinerary than others, but that is not our prime concern. We've been to Venice several times and really like it. It might be a possibility again for a few days. Finding the right area to bike in is what we are really focusing on right now, and then we'll work on the rest of the trip.

Here are the three very different ideas (the asterisk is by the place we'd be staying overnight.):

Umbria--
"This is cycling over quiet country roads among the sunny, colourful fields with a beautiful backdrop of hills covered with silver-green olive groves and fertile vineyards. This not-too-heavy cycle tour will lead you to lively, medieval villages and towns of the green valley 'Valle Umbra' like Assisi, Spello, Foligno, Spoleto, Bevagna and Perugia and because of the shorter daily distances you will have enough time to visit them." The roundtrip tour is Assisi*, Spello, Foligno, Casco dell'acqua*, Spoleto*, Bevagna*, Torgiano*, Viole, and back to Assisi*.

http://www.ecologicotours.it/valle_umbra_leisure.htm


Emilia--
"The castles of Piacenza and Parma. A cycle holiday through the provinces of Piacenza and Parma, two fascinating areas with beautiful castles. You will make acquaintance of the culture, the exceptional wines of the Colli Piacentini and amazing gastronomy. You cycle on winding roads along tranquil hamlets, through the flat land of Parmesan and valleys with beautiful nature. You can choose to cycle the last couple of days across hills with breathtaking views." The roundtrip tour is Rivergaro*, Cirte Maggiore, option to see Cremora, Villanova, San Pietro in Cerro*, Polesine Parmense*, Fontevivo*, Busseto, Soragna, San Secondo Parmense, Fontanellato, Castell'Arquato*, Lugagnano, Carpaneto Piacentino*, and back to Rivergaro*.

https://onderweegsinitalie.nl/eng/to...8-days-deluxe/


Veneto--
"Cycling through the heart of Veneto, along beautiful mansions and authentic Castle towns. You will visit the two impressive cities Padova and Vicenza, where you can admire beautiful buildings and art treasures. Enjoy the natural beauty and of the lovely Euganean Hills, which as wooded pyramids rising out of the plain."This roundtrip tour is Pionbino Dese* (20k west of Treviso), Noale, Padua*, Conselve, Monselice, Este*, MontagnanaAltaura, Noventa Vicentina, Vincenza*, Zugliano, Marostica*, Bassano di Grappa, and back to Piombino Dese*.

https://onderweegsinitalie.nl/eng/to...ys-round-trip/


If anyone has any insights or knows these areas or can comment or make comparisons for me, I'd really appreciate it. I know many of yo u have probably visited these area and know them well.

Thanks much.
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Old Aug 19th, 2017, 05:22 AM
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Ok, hi Julies, I thought the croatian boat was pefect for you.

If you follow my name back on Liguria in June that may put a halt to that (or not).

Of the three main ideas I've cycled a fair bit of most of them

Umbria will have the most hills and the views will be good

Veneto will be probably the most off road and while there are always dangers of fog in what is a flat valley bottom you should be ok in early Oct

Emilia will have better views than Veneto, but of course with great views come great climbs. Bigger towns do exist there but not sure if you have to ride into them

Of the three Veneto would be my favorite as the food will almost be as good as Emilia-R. The flatness is nice and you get closer to nature on those quiet canal paths/back roads etc.

I've given you the mybikeguide link before but if you look at the articles they may give you further insight.

Puglia cycling is good too.

Rain in Italy, Veneto on average is a fair bit drier than Puglia in October
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Old Aug 19th, 2017, 06:43 AM
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Bibbo--

Super helpful! Yes, I've seen your bike link. I did see you trip report about Liguria. We wouldn't be biking there and would instead be doing the more typical tourist thing of a Genoa visit, hiking some villages, and using either a train or a car to move around.

The only Croatian boat cruise we could get on is Oct. 14 (the very last one of the season). After all the reading I've done about the area and the seasons and the weather, we have decided that nice as the trip might be, the weather is just too iffy at that time of year, and even if it weren't raining our time on the boat outside would be spent bundled up. I guess I should add in that last fall we rented a canal boat on the Canal du Garonne in southern France at exactly the same time of year (very end of the season again). As we found out, it was too late in the year for boating. That experience has also factored in to our decision to skip the Croatian boat and bike trip for this fall.

This sounds like a pretty good endorsement for the Veneto. Interestingly enough the same outfitter offers both the Veneto and the Emilia trips, and for the route they choose, they rate the Veneto slightly more difficult than the Emilia one because of a hilly area en route. This trip does go into Vincenza and Padua. Are they nightmares when entering on a bike?

A different outfitter runs the Assisi one (and I know Assisi itself is on a hill). That outfitter says, "You cycle through a landscape of gentle, rolling hills. This generally easy route, mostly flat, with short daily distances makes this an ideal tour for leisure cyclists and family groups. There aren’t many climbs and if possible there will be offered an alternative."


Thanks so much!
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Old Aug 19th, 2017, 07:28 AM
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Vincenza on a bike is so so but maybe I didn't find a bike route (they are being added all the time). Padua is dead flat with a ring canal (watch out for cobble stones) (or almost ring), what you do do near there is the Euganian hills which the tour may take you close to so slight slopes etc, don't go over the d@@n things as they will hurt but the edges are gentle and views worth it.

if you do decide to climb them, get rid of your kit first.

I looked at the Emilia-R trip after I posted and before you responded and yes it doesn't climb up the ridge south of Bologna/Palma and the bits north out to the Po are off-ish road, but I would worry about the roads to the south of Bologna/Palma might be busy.

Liguria has some very fine bits, enjoy
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Old Aug 21st, 2017, 07:45 AM
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Bilbo has been very helpful, but is there anyone else out there who is familiar with these areas in general (not in terms of cycling). I am interested in the overall feel or ambiance of these areas for the general tourist who is fine with low key destinations and who doesn't always need to want to do the more mainstream tourism destinations.
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Old Aug 21st, 2017, 08:31 AM
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I've not been to E-R or the Veneto unfortunately, but my husband and I have really enjoyed our time in Umbria (two different trips both based in Spello). Pretty, historically interesting towns, lovely scenery, good food and wine, friendly people, limited crowds (with the exception of Assisi). We're both cyclists and while we have not ridden theres, we've thought many a time that it would be lovely to do so.

Looking at the itinerary, I agree that you won't encounter but a small amount of really climbing (like the approach to Montefalco). The Umbrian valley itself has some rolling hills. I think it be very enjoyable and the weather in early October might be nicer than parts farther north.

But it also may depend on what you want in terms of bike touring. The mileage each day is pretty short. That may nor may not be an issue for you. It will certainly give you plenty of time to see the towns you're visiting. But be aware that Umbrian towns kind of shut down for a few hours after lunch, so it really pays to hit them in the morning or in mid to late afternoon.

If you choose this tour, do go to Montefalco notwithstanding the climb. It's one of my favorite towns and they have some really lovely restaurants for lunch (L'Alchemista being our favorite).
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 10:14 AM
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indyhiker--

Thanks for the Umbria information. I'll admit that the thought of the hill towns has me a bit concerned. I assume they are all called "hill towns" for a reason. So, it was good to hear that you looked at the itinerary and feel that it would be manageable because of the valley. The itinerary is intentionally designed to give enough time to visit the various points along the routes. We are much more interested in actually seeing the area than in just cranking out mileage. I assume we could just walk our bikes up the hill to Montefalco.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 12:12 PM
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The area least developed for industry of the 3 mentioned is Umbria. It's also the one most developed for tourism. Assisi will be swamped in the first week of October because Oct 4 is the feast of St Francis, the patron saint of Italy. The pope and the head of state will go to Assisi, and the town will go into lockdown.

The area through Piacenza & Parma, and around places like Soragna or Fontenallato, Busetto is one of pleasing towns (and exceptional food) but lots of flat weedy floodplain between them, and then some considerable structures of commerce (Barilla pasta is there in a large complex, & so is an important shopping mall complex).

I've not been to the Euganean Hills, but I suspect you will find minimal industrialization in the hills themselves (although some hefty spa resorts). However, around places like Vicenza (where there is large US Air Force base) and Padova, this is much industrialized area of Italy.

Google images can be great for getting some feel for these places. Plug in the names of those towns on Google & hit the "Images" option. Also, you can usually dig up info from bloggers (like Rossi Writes for the Veneto, or Emilia-Tourism, and there a loads of Umbria blogs plus "Bella Umbria" website.

If you pick the Emilia-Romagna and care a lot about food then it is really rewarding to do some fine-tuned research before you go about the many unusual offerings in the western Emiliana. Piacenza has its own wonderful pasta dishes, plus gnocchi, plus delicious salami. Parma has beautiful pastta, unusual cured meats (not just prosciutto) and if you are close enough to the Po you can eat terrific fried fish dishes & sturgeon depending on season.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 12:16 PM
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By the way, if you are going for wine, it's a tossup between the Veneto & Umbria, although I think the Veneto has the edge for variety, especially in whites. Don't go to Emilia-Romagna for wine (although it's possible to find enjoyable bottles). I would think Emilia-Romagna gets the least rain of the 3 in October as a general rule, but one never can tell anymore.
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Old Aug 22nd, 2017, 09:57 PM
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luckily the three industrial sized spas are right next to each other between Padua and the E hills, they don't look too bad each is just a tower block and a pool/gardens. You hardly know they are there.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 09:10 AM
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Thanks for the heads up about the feast of St. Francis in early October. I will definitely keep that in mind if we decide to go with the Umbria option. I am sure it is the most touristed area, but it is still definitely in contention. With all of the traveling we have done, I know that sometimes the most heavily advertised and well-known areas are truly remarkable and well-worth a visit. But, I have also learned that often this is just a result of lots of publicity and the effects of having a very well-known and recognized name.

I think perhaps I am the most iffy about the Emilia area tour. Everything i read talks about how great the food is in the region, and how that is one of the main reasons for visiting there. While we definitely enjoy great food, we are not foodies and we aren't the type of people who go out to expensive and/or highly rated restaurants all of the time. We are more of the lowkey, inexpensive, casual restaurant type of people. Flat, weedy floodplain scenery doesn't sound too great either.

I have been trying to look at photos of the areas to see which ones sound most appealing.

Thanks all again.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 09:35 AM
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I'm pretty sure the tour organizer would be cognizant of the Feast of St. Francis and plan around it. You could ask to be sure.

In my opinion, given your preferences, Umbria would probably please you most. Umbria is known for good hearty country food, and with any luck there will be plenty of porcini mushrooms; I'm not sure what the effect of the current drought will have on the mushroom season. There are also usually the first white truffles appearing at about that time, although the peak is usually mid-to-late October.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 09:51 AM
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Not trying to influence your choices but the best food of the Emilia Romagna is in small trattorie & shops. The reason people rave about it (or at least one reason!) is that many of the foods are "familiar" and yet when you taste them in this region, you realize you've never really tasted them before! Part of the reason for that is that when you taste some of the most famous products of this region -- like "parmaesan cheese" -- what you taste, even if it isn't grated & in a can, has been refrigerated and sent long distances, while if you taste it where it is made, it's amazing. Also, a great many people who adore the food of Emilia-Romagna are committed to fresh pasta, and it is extaordinary in the Emiliana.

But it is hard to think of another place in Italy serving food that it is heartier or simpler that Piacenza's centuries old "pisareil e faso" -- a soupy mix of small dumplings & beans that was created to serve to pilgrims making the long pilgrimage from England to Rome.

You can find "country food" all over the country of Italy. If that's what you like, it's worthwhile to do research about the local dishes, especially if you decide in the end that a highly touristed area like Umbria sounds most appealing scenery-wise. Tourist menus by necessity focus on things foreigners tend to order. so the research pays off if you want try something closer to what locals eat (some of in unrecognizable to visitors).
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 09:53 AM
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For the wine, and the scenery, I vote Umbria. Have not cycled in Italy though.
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 03:24 PM
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I live in a flat area and stress about climbing, too. There's no shame in stopping for a breather and taking it slow. Walking is an option, too, although pushing all but a light road bike up a hill can be as hard as riding. You have a couple of months to train so I'd work on some climbing just to ease any anxiety.

But like I said, don't skip Montefalco. It really is worth the effort! Umbria is lovely; I'd do a bike tour there in a heartbeat!
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Old Aug 23rd, 2017, 06:06 PM
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I vote for Umbria, too. I have been there a number of times.Last time I stayed for ten days on a farm about five miles from Assisi. Look at annesitaly.com to see beautiful photos of the area and to get ideas of places to visit. Actually she will help arrange visits, too.
Every morning we would go visit one of the many small towns in the area and in the afternoon, we would either go to a local festival or wander around Assisi for a couple of hours. We were there around the first of May and it was actually not too crowded then. I have been there In early October for the festival of St. Francis - that is when it is really crowded.

Later in October should still be nice weather and not nearly so crowded.

I have also been to Venice and the Veneto many times and love it, too, but the scenery in Umbria is much more beautiful.
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Old Aug 24th, 2017, 05:47 AM
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Thanks much for all of the input from everyone. You have helped immensely in giving me a feel for some of the different areas.
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