April in the Alps: A Swiss Walkabout
May 26th, 2009, 02:28 PM
#1
April in the Alps: A Swiss Walkabout
It’s 2:30 am, and I’m jetlagged beyond belief, so figured this is as good a time as any to start my trip report on Switzerland.
WARNING: I’m one of those annoying detailed types. I don’t wax poetic about food and cow bells, but I do tend to provide details others might find irritating. I’ll try to control myself.
The travelers:
Bill and Mel, a couple of semi-old fahrt American expatriates currently living in Perth, Australia. We love Switzerland, and have visited several times, the last of which was in 2004 when we lived in Indonesia. At that point we decided the time and energy needed to get to Europe from our remote location was just too daunting, so we shelved future trips to Switzerland…until now.
Our grand plan this time was to combine a visit to Switzerland and the United States over a six week period; a trip that included a vacation, a home leave and a few weeks of business.
So back in December we began plotting our course, and decided to book RTW tickets on Star Alliance partners. Unwilling to fly a gazillion miles crammed into cattle class, we bit the bullet and purchased Business Class tickets. Ouch.
Our routing:
PER-SIN
SIN-FRA
FRA-ZRH
ZRH-LAX
LAX-LAS
LAS-PHX
PHX-COS
COS-DEN
DEN-LAX
LAX-AKL
AKL-PER
We’d exhaustively researched which routes, airlines and flights offered the most bang for our buck in those coveted Business Class seats. We’d hoped to take Singapore Airlines as much as possible, but as they apply a $500 per ticket surcharge on their SIN-ZRH flights and a $900 per ticket surcharge on their LAX-SIN flights, we thought better of it.
Our Swiss Itinerary:
Kandersteg – three nights
Zermatt – four nights
Lauterbrunnen – seven nights
Zurich – one night
We’re low season, cold weather travelers, so April seemed like the perfect time to visit Switzerland. It also coincided with Good Friday and Easter Monday, two holidays here in Australia, giving us two more vacation days to work with.
April 10, 2009: The trip begins…..
We’d arranged a private transfer to the Perth airport though a limo service, the best option we found after much research. We were collected at 5 am, at the airport by 5:30 and sipping chai lattes in the Singapore Air Lounge by 6 am. The Perth airport enforces a 14 kg carry on limit for Business Class, less for Economy. Bags are weighed as you enter Immigration.
We’d booked two aisle seats, but were talked into accepting two seats in the middle section with the promise that the middle seat would be blocked off (it was). Only 18 of the 30 Business Class seats were full, so that world class SIA service was even more attentive than usual. It was a good flight; short and sweet at 4.5 hours, good service, huge screens for movie viewing, edible food, etc.
The later flight we’d originally wanted to take was booked, so we had to cool our heels in Changi Airport for 10 hours before our connecting flight to Frankfurt. But if you’ve got to spend 10 hours in an airport, Changi is the place to do it.
We arrived in Terminal 2 and immediately went to the Silver Kris Lounge for a snack before checking into the Transit Hotel, where we’d booked a room for the next eight hours (S$107). We were re-directed to the Transit Hotel in Terminal 3, as renovations were in progress and we were told it might be noisy. We’ve been through Changi countless times, but I’ve never seen it so empty. We took a nap, poked around the airport, went back to the lounge for a snack and to use the Internet, then back to the room to shower, then back to the lounge to await our 23:10 flight.
Our 12+ hour SIA flight to Frankfurt was on the upper deck of a 747. It was a good flight, despite three solid hours of bone jarring turbulence. I’d requested vegetarian meals on all our flights and I was already beginning to regret it. The two Asian Vegetarian meals on SIA were good, but I was rapidly tiring of carbs; naan, dahl, rice, saag paneer, naan, potato dosa, more naan. The flight attendants were efficient to the point of annoyance, taking our food and drinks away before we’d finished.
The Silver Kris Sling and carb overload eventually kicked in and we both managed to get about 4-5 hours of sleep. The seats were comfortable; I felt as if I were in a cocoon. When the seat was fully reclined I slid downwards, but I found a comfortable sleeping position by lowering the seat and raising the knee support a bit. The entertainment system was extensive and the screens were huge.
We arrived in Frankfurt (C gates) around 6:30 am, and were greeted with 50 degree temps, a welcome change after a long hot Perth summer. We went through passport control and back through security to reach the A gates for our connecting Lufthansa flight to Zurich. I have a love-hate relationship with the Frankfurt Airport. I hate the industrial, rabbit warren feel of the place, but I love the duty free shopping (chocolate!).
We had a few hours to kill before our connecting flight, so we spent it in the Senator’s Lounge trying to revive ourselves with caffeine, cheese and bread. It seemed as if we’d been eating non stop since we left Perth; at this rate I’d explode before we reached our destination.
The Senator’s lounge was busy and there was no shortage of alcohol. Beer on tap, vodka on ice, spirits galore. Tempting, but a wee bit early for me.
Our flight to Zurich was on an Airbus 321, in what Bill refers to as ‘fake business class’; three seats on each side with the middle seat blocked off and used as a drink and food tray. It was only a 45 minute flight, but they still managed to serve a light breakfast.
April 11, 9:30 am, finally, we’d arrived in Switzerland.
Next up: Working off some calories in Kandersteg
WARNING: I’m one of those annoying detailed types. I don’t wax poetic about food and cow bells, but I do tend to provide details others might find irritating. I’ll try to control myself.
The travelers:
Bill and Mel, a couple of semi-old fahrt American expatriates currently living in Perth, Australia. We love Switzerland, and have visited several times, the last of which was in 2004 when we lived in Indonesia. At that point we decided the time and energy needed to get to Europe from our remote location was just too daunting, so we shelved future trips to Switzerland…until now.
Our grand plan this time was to combine a visit to Switzerland and the United States over a six week period; a trip that included a vacation, a home leave and a few weeks of business.
So back in December we began plotting our course, and decided to book RTW tickets on Star Alliance partners. Unwilling to fly a gazillion miles crammed into cattle class, we bit the bullet and purchased Business Class tickets. Ouch.
Our routing:
PER-SIN
SIN-FRA
FRA-ZRH
ZRH-LAX
LAX-LAS
LAS-PHX
PHX-COS
COS-DEN
DEN-LAX
LAX-AKL
AKL-PER
We’d exhaustively researched which routes, airlines and flights offered the most bang for our buck in those coveted Business Class seats. We’d hoped to take Singapore Airlines as much as possible, but as they apply a $500 per ticket surcharge on their SIN-ZRH flights and a $900 per ticket surcharge on their LAX-SIN flights, we thought better of it.
Our Swiss Itinerary:
Kandersteg – three nights
Zermatt – four nights
Lauterbrunnen – seven nights
Zurich – one night
We’re low season, cold weather travelers, so April seemed like the perfect time to visit Switzerland. It also coincided with Good Friday and Easter Monday, two holidays here in Australia, giving us two more vacation days to work with.
April 10, 2009: The trip begins…..
We’d arranged a private transfer to the Perth airport though a limo service, the best option we found after much research. We were collected at 5 am, at the airport by 5:30 and sipping chai lattes in the Singapore Air Lounge by 6 am. The Perth airport enforces a 14 kg carry on limit for Business Class, less for Economy. Bags are weighed as you enter Immigration.
We’d booked two aisle seats, but were talked into accepting two seats in the middle section with the promise that the middle seat would be blocked off (it was). Only 18 of the 30 Business Class seats were full, so that world class SIA service was even more attentive than usual. It was a good flight; short and sweet at 4.5 hours, good service, huge screens for movie viewing, edible food, etc.
The later flight we’d originally wanted to take was booked, so we had to cool our heels in Changi Airport for 10 hours before our connecting flight to Frankfurt. But if you’ve got to spend 10 hours in an airport, Changi is the place to do it.
We arrived in Terminal 2 and immediately went to the Silver Kris Lounge for a snack before checking into the Transit Hotel, where we’d booked a room for the next eight hours (S$107). We were re-directed to the Transit Hotel in Terminal 3, as renovations were in progress and we were told it might be noisy. We’ve been through Changi countless times, but I’ve never seen it so empty. We took a nap, poked around the airport, went back to the lounge for a snack and to use the Internet, then back to the room to shower, then back to the lounge to await our 23:10 flight.
Our 12+ hour SIA flight to Frankfurt was on the upper deck of a 747. It was a good flight, despite three solid hours of bone jarring turbulence. I’d requested vegetarian meals on all our flights and I was already beginning to regret it. The two Asian Vegetarian meals on SIA were good, but I was rapidly tiring of carbs; naan, dahl, rice, saag paneer, naan, potato dosa, more naan. The flight attendants were efficient to the point of annoyance, taking our food and drinks away before we’d finished.
The Silver Kris Sling and carb overload eventually kicked in and we both managed to get about 4-5 hours of sleep. The seats were comfortable; I felt as if I were in a cocoon. When the seat was fully reclined I slid downwards, but I found a comfortable sleeping position by lowering the seat and raising the knee support a bit. The entertainment system was extensive and the screens were huge.
We arrived in Frankfurt (C gates) around 6:30 am, and were greeted with 50 degree temps, a welcome change after a long hot Perth summer. We went through passport control and back through security to reach the A gates for our connecting Lufthansa flight to Zurich. I have a love-hate relationship with the Frankfurt Airport. I hate the industrial, rabbit warren feel of the place, but I love the duty free shopping (chocolate!).
We had a few hours to kill before our connecting flight, so we spent it in the Senator’s Lounge trying to revive ourselves with caffeine, cheese and bread. It seemed as if we’d been eating non stop since we left Perth; at this rate I’d explode before we reached our destination.
The Senator’s lounge was busy and there was no shortage of alcohol. Beer on tap, vodka on ice, spirits galore. Tempting, but a wee bit early for me.
Our flight to Zurich was on an Airbus 321, in what Bill refers to as ‘fake business class’; three seats on each side with the middle seat blocked off and used as a drink and food tray. It was only a 45 minute flight, but they still managed to serve a light breakfast.
April 11, 9:30 am, finally, we’d arrived in Switzerland.
Next up: Working off some calories in Kandersteg
May 26th, 2009, 10:00 PM
#5
Upon our arrival in Zurich, we sought out the attended left luggage area, where we dropped off one of our suitcases. We had no interest in dragging around any more luggage than necessary and we had no need for the business clothes, summer clothes and gifts from Australia we’d brought with us for later in the trip. We purchased a Half Fare Card (99 CHF each) and two one way train tickets to Kandersteg (35.50 CHF each). We also picked up provisions at the Migros grocery store in the airport, as it was the Saturday before Easter and we weren’t sure what the food situation would be like in Kandersteg.
Our journey led us through Bern and Spiez (two train changes), arriving at the door of our apartment some 32 hours after leaving Perth. Whew!
On previous visits we’d discovered that an expensive Switzerland could be made more affordable by staying in apartments or in hotels that offer rooms without service or breakfast during the low season. With that in mind, I’d booked three nights in an apartment at Hotel Adler.
http://www.chalethotel.ch/wohnen/wohnE.html
For 306.50 CHF (70 CHF per night x 3, 80 CHF cleaning fee, 16.50 CHF visitor’s tax), we had ourselves a nice little flat with a balcony overlooking the River Kander.
Our apartment (#279) was located on the second floor of a separate building directly behind the hotel. It consisted of one bedroom, a living area with chair and loveseat, a small dining area, bathroom with shower over the tub, and a kitchen with a small fridge, microwave, tiny dishwasher, and two element stove top. It had everything we needed except decent reading lights; every light in the place was pitiful. Details, details…
After getting settled, we scouted out the path to the Luftseilbahn Sunnbuel, where we planned to hike the following day. We returned to town via the track along the River Kander.
http://www.sunnbuel.ch/
It seemed as if the entire town was outdoors on this beautiful day, enjoying alfresco drinks at cafes, walking along the river, biking through town, etc. After a nice long walk to shake off the travel fatigue, we returned to our temporary home to soak up the fantastic scenery from the comfort of our balcony.
Next up: Tromping through the slush
Our journey led us through Bern and Spiez (two train changes), arriving at the door of our apartment some 32 hours after leaving Perth. Whew!
On previous visits we’d discovered that an expensive Switzerland could be made more affordable by staying in apartments or in hotels that offer rooms without service or breakfast during the low season. With that in mind, I’d booked three nights in an apartment at Hotel Adler.
http://www.chalethotel.ch/wohnen/wohnE.html
For 306.50 CHF (70 CHF per night x 3, 80 CHF cleaning fee, 16.50 CHF visitor’s tax), we had ourselves a nice little flat with a balcony overlooking the River Kander.
Our apartment (#279) was located on the second floor of a separate building directly behind the hotel. It consisted of one bedroom, a living area with chair and loveseat, a small dining area, bathroom with shower over the tub, and a kitchen with a small fridge, microwave, tiny dishwasher, and two element stove top. It had everything we needed except decent reading lights; every light in the place was pitiful. Details, details…
After getting settled, we scouted out the path to the Luftseilbahn Sunnbuel, where we planned to hike the following day. We returned to town via the track along the River Kander.
http://www.sunnbuel.ch/
It seemed as if the entire town was outdoors on this beautiful day, enjoying alfresco drinks at cafes, walking along the river, biking through town, etc. After a nice long walk to shake off the travel fatigue, we returned to our temporary home to soak up the fantastic scenery from the comfort of our balcony.
Next up: Tromping through the slush
May 27th, 2009, 03:20 PM
#8
Well, thank you Meredith and simpsonc510. I'm actually beginning to feel human again after an almost full night's sleep, so I'll try to write some more today.
I still have hundreds of photos to sort through. I'll post some as I go along.
I still have hundreds of photos to sort through. I'll post some as I go along.
May 27th, 2009, 05:38 PM
#9
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This is great! I've stayed at the Adler in the hotel part; it is good to know that apartment has a balcony too. Too bad about the lighting, though.
Di you happen to check out the Ricola herb garden on your walk to the Sunnbuel lift?
Di you happen to check out the Ricola herb garden on your walk to the Sunnbuel lift?
May 27th, 2009, 05:45 PM
#10
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Well, I will try to hide my (selfish) disappointment in finding no further entries today. And here I was all ready to pretend I was there this evening...sigh...
enzian, did you happen to see the Ricola herb garden when you were in Zermatt? It's on the walk down from Furi into the village. Lots of explanations as to what the various herbs are used for.
enzian, did you happen to see the Ricola herb garden when you were in Zermatt? It's on the walk down from Furi into the village. Lots of explanations as to what the various herbs are used for.
May 27th, 2009, 06:01 PM
#11
A note regarding closures and budgeting:
As off season travelers, we fully expect closures. I’d e-mailed the respective tourist offices to determine what would be open in April and then planned our itinerary accordingly. I learned that Kandersteg would be practically shut down, but a few apartments could be had for less than a week at good rates.
I also learned that April was still high season in Zermatt, where hotel rates remain stupidly expensive until well after Easter, and renting an apartment for less than a week was virtually impossible until May. Through sheer perseverance I located a hotel in Zermatt that offered low season rates immediately following Easter.
I also discovered that apartment rates in Lauterbrunnen dropped significantly the week following Easter, as many hotels and restaurants close until early summer.
April 12, 2009: Easter Sunday, the vacation is truly underway…
We must have been tired, because we slept for 12 hours! It was impossibly quiet; we didn’t hear anything until the church bells came to life at 7 am.
My research indicated that the Sunnbuel cable car would be operating until April 19, but we checked with hotel staff to ensure that included Easter Sunday, before we set out to the cable station (30 minutes). I knew there was a winter hiking trail which began at the top of the Sunnbuel cable station, and I’d read references to Gemmi Pass, but beyond that I was clueless. Before purchasing tickets, we tried to ascertain if this was a one way loop or if we needed return tickets. Our non-existent German and the spotty English of the cable station employee led us to believe we needed to buy return tickets, so we did – 14.50 CHF each - later discovering this wasn’t the case.
As it turns out, this walk is known as the Old Gemmi Trail, the historic trade route over the Gemmi Pass. It’s a popular high altitude trail that begins in the Bernese Oberland at Sunnebuel (above Kandersteg) and continues on to Gemmi Pass, (above Leukerbad) in the canton Valais. Apparently, there’s another hotel owned cable car that runs from Gemmi Pass to Leukerbad. The trail can be walked in either direction, and it’s groomed during the winter for hiking and snowshoeing.
http://www.kandersteg.ch/english/sport/w_gemmi.html
http://www.gemmi.ch/e/gemmibahn.html
From Sunnbuel we walked the path to the 250 year old Berghotel Schwarenbach, which is approximately half way to Gemmi Pass. This would no doubt be an easy walk in the summer months, but this day it was difficult thanks to the slushy snow. We felt as if we were walking in sand which was constantly shifting underfoot. Snowshoes would have really come in handy.
This was indeed a popular trail with many folks out enjoying the day, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, and hiking.
We took a much needed rest at the Berghotel Schwarenbach, where we had an alfresco lunch on their patio. The waitress was taking orders in German and French, but quickly switched to English when we asked if she spoke it. It never ceases to amaze me how the Swiss can change languages almost mid sentence. Sure wish I could do that. We didn’t even ask for a menu, we just ordered soup, a beer and a hot chocolate. We were presented with a beautiful bowl of steaming hot cream of vegetable soup with sausages and brown bread (41.80 CHF). It was divine, all the more so because it was lapped up amidst the Valais Alps. Hummm…perhaps I do wax poetic just a tad.
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offe...uts-46732.html
Stomachs and eyeballs sated, we returned the way we had come, trudging through snow that had become even slushier and more difficult to walk on as the day had warmed. We were cold, then hot, then cold again. We kept putting on clothes just to peel them off. We used every piece of clothing we had in our backpacks at some point on this walk; Gortex jackets, fleece jackets, fleece hats and gloves, sunhats. The only thing we forgot was sunscreen, which we’d much regret the following day. (Total walking time 4.5 hours, 7.5 miles return from apartment. We later learned that another 1:10 would have gotten us to Gemmi Pass). We were pooped and our shoes and socks were soaking wet. We felt every one of our years.
We saw and heard several rock slides as we walked back to the apartment. There was a band playing near the church in Kandersteg and kids were passing an old trombone for donations. It was an idyllic setting, and at that moment, I realized this little village had stolen my heart.
Our fears of everything being closed on Easter were unfounded. There were plenty of restaurants open for business, as were the bakery and a small grocery store.
Next up: Sore muscles, burnt skin and a fabulous Wanderweg
As off season travelers, we fully expect closures. I’d e-mailed the respective tourist offices to determine what would be open in April and then planned our itinerary accordingly. I learned that Kandersteg would be practically shut down, but a few apartments could be had for less than a week at good rates.
I also learned that April was still high season in Zermatt, where hotel rates remain stupidly expensive until well after Easter, and renting an apartment for less than a week was virtually impossible until May. Through sheer perseverance I located a hotel in Zermatt that offered low season rates immediately following Easter.
I also discovered that apartment rates in Lauterbrunnen dropped significantly the week following Easter, as many hotels and restaurants close until early summer.
April 12, 2009: Easter Sunday, the vacation is truly underway…
We must have been tired, because we slept for 12 hours! It was impossibly quiet; we didn’t hear anything until the church bells came to life at 7 am.
My research indicated that the Sunnbuel cable car would be operating until April 19, but we checked with hotel staff to ensure that included Easter Sunday, before we set out to the cable station (30 minutes). I knew there was a winter hiking trail which began at the top of the Sunnbuel cable station, and I’d read references to Gemmi Pass, but beyond that I was clueless. Before purchasing tickets, we tried to ascertain if this was a one way loop or if we needed return tickets. Our non-existent German and the spotty English of the cable station employee led us to believe we needed to buy return tickets, so we did – 14.50 CHF each - later discovering this wasn’t the case.
As it turns out, this walk is known as the Old Gemmi Trail, the historic trade route over the Gemmi Pass. It’s a popular high altitude trail that begins in the Bernese Oberland at Sunnebuel (above Kandersteg) and continues on to Gemmi Pass, (above Leukerbad) in the canton Valais. Apparently, there’s another hotel owned cable car that runs from Gemmi Pass to Leukerbad. The trail can be walked in either direction, and it’s groomed during the winter for hiking and snowshoeing.
http://www.kandersteg.ch/english/sport/w_gemmi.html
http://www.gemmi.ch/e/gemmibahn.html
From Sunnbuel we walked the path to the 250 year old Berghotel Schwarenbach, which is approximately half way to Gemmi Pass. This would no doubt be an easy walk in the summer months, but this day it was difficult thanks to the slushy snow. We felt as if we were walking in sand which was constantly shifting underfoot. Snowshoes would have really come in handy.
This was indeed a popular trail with many folks out enjoying the day, snowshoeing, cross country skiing, and hiking.
We took a much needed rest at the Berghotel Schwarenbach, where we had an alfresco lunch on their patio. The waitress was taking orders in German and French, but quickly switched to English when we asked if she spoke it. It never ceases to amaze me how the Swiss can change languages almost mid sentence. Sure wish I could do that. We didn’t even ask for a menu, we just ordered soup, a beer and a hot chocolate. We were presented with a beautiful bowl of steaming hot cream of vegetable soup with sausages and brown bread (41.80 CHF). It was divine, all the more so because it was lapped up amidst the Valais Alps. Hummm…perhaps I do wax poetic just a tad.
http://www.myswitzerland.com/en/offe...uts-46732.html
Stomachs and eyeballs sated, we returned the way we had come, trudging through snow that had become even slushier and more difficult to walk on as the day had warmed. We were cold, then hot, then cold again. We kept putting on clothes just to peel them off. We used every piece of clothing we had in our backpacks at some point on this walk; Gortex jackets, fleece jackets, fleece hats and gloves, sunhats. The only thing we forgot was sunscreen, which we’d much regret the following day. (Total walking time 4.5 hours, 7.5 miles return from apartment. We later learned that another 1:10 would have gotten us to Gemmi Pass). We were pooped and our shoes and socks were soaking wet. We felt every one of our years.
We saw and heard several rock slides as we walked back to the apartment. There was a band playing near the church in Kandersteg and kids were passing an old trombone for donations. It was an idyllic setting, and at that moment, I realized this little village had stolen my heart.
Our fears of everything being closed on Easter were unfounded. There were plenty of restaurants open for business, as were the bakery and a small grocery store.
Next up: Sore muscles, burnt skin and a fabulous Wanderweg
May 27th, 2009, 06:12 PM
#12
Ricola herb garden? Apparently we missed both of them (we've walked from Furi to Zermatt on previous trips). Perhaps it was too early in the season, or maybe we didn't realize what we were looking at...
May 27th, 2009, 08:53 PM
#13
April 13, 2009: A truly gorgeous Easter Monday…
We woke to a beautiful sunny day, sore muscles and very red faces. We know better than to hike without sunscreen, heck, we’re from Colorado and all too familiar with sun and snow burn - but we all have the occasional brain fahrt (okay, I'll stop now). Lanolin and ibuprofen to the rescue…
I strolled through town while Bill took advantage of the morning light to finish a book. It was a good opportunity for me to sneak into the small grocery store across from the Adler and ogle the chocolate aisle. Okay, so maybe I did a bit more than ogle…
We knew the chairlift to the Oeschinensee (Oeschinen Lake) wasn’t operating, but closures don’t slow us down much, so we walked up instead. The lake is located east of Kandersteg in the Oeschinen valley, at an elevation of 5,180 feet.
The path was partly hiking trail, road and ski run, and it was a bit on the steep side, but it was a very pretty walk. We encountered snow, mud and a creek or two. It took us 90 minutes to reach the closed Oeschinensee Hotel, where we trudged through thigh deep snow to access a bench overlooking the lake for a picnic lunch. It was stunning.
http://www.oeschinensee.ch/content/sommer_en/13/143/
After lunch we continued walking along a wooded path above the lake and past an assortment of wood sculptures to the waterfall. There was loads of snow and it was incredibly peaceful. We then backtracked and detoured to the Sesselbahn (chairlift), planning to walk down from there for a different return to Kandersteg. Instead of a path, we found a steep drop off under the chairlift, so we walked back towards the lake and returned the way we had come.
It was a beautiful day, a great walk with eye popping views of the surrounding peaks and scattered spring flowers poking their heads through the snow. We enjoyed this walk immensely (total walking time 4.25 hours, just under 7.5 miles).
That evening we dined in the Adler Hotel Restaurant – Four season pizza for Bill (18 CHF) and a huge serving of Rosti with mountain cheese for me (19 CHF). Bill enjoyed his pizza, but I found the Rosti really bland – it was basically a huge mound of fried hash browns with a few slices of cheese on top. I love Rosti, but this rendition was sadly lacking. The American in me yearned for some Heinz to jazz it up, but I couldn’t bring myself to ask for any.
Next up: Goodbye Kandersteg, hello Zermatt…
We woke to a beautiful sunny day, sore muscles and very red faces. We know better than to hike without sunscreen, heck, we’re from Colorado and all too familiar with sun and snow burn - but we all have the occasional brain fahrt (okay, I'll stop now). Lanolin and ibuprofen to the rescue…
I strolled through town while Bill took advantage of the morning light to finish a book. It was a good opportunity for me to sneak into the small grocery store across from the Adler and ogle the chocolate aisle. Okay, so maybe I did a bit more than ogle…
We knew the chairlift to the Oeschinensee (Oeschinen Lake) wasn’t operating, but closures don’t slow us down much, so we walked up instead. The lake is located east of Kandersteg in the Oeschinen valley, at an elevation of 5,180 feet.
The path was partly hiking trail, road and ski run, and it was a bit on the steep side, but it was a very pretty walk. We encountered snow, mud and a creek or two. It took us 90 minutes to reach the closed Oeschinensee Hotel, where we trudged through thigh deep snow to access a bench overlooking the lake for a picnic lunch. It was stunning.
http://www.oeschinensee.ch/content/sommer_en/13/143/
After lunch we continued walking along a wooded path above the lake and past an assortment of wood sculptures to the waterfall. There was loads of snow and it was incredibly peaceful. We then backtracked and detoured to the Sesselbahn (chairlift), planning to walk down from there for a different return to Kandersteg. Instead of a path, we found a steep drop off under the chairlift, so we walked back towards the lake and returned the way we had come.
It was a beautiful day, a great walk with eye popping views of the surrounding peaks and scattered spring flowers poking their heads through the snow. We enjoyed this walk immensely (total walking time 4.25 hours, just under 7.5 miles).
That evening we dined in the Adler Hotel Restaurant – Four season pizza for Bill (18 CHF) and a huge serving of Rosti with mountain cheese for me (19 CHF). Bill enjoyed his pizza, but I found the Rosti really bland – it was basically a huge mound of fried hash browns with a few slices of cheese on top. I love Rosti, but this rendition was sadly lacking. The American in me yearned for some Heinz to jazz it up, but I couldn’t bring myself to ask for any.
Next up: Goodbye Kandersteg, hello Zermatt…
May 27th, 2009, 11:07 PM
#14
April 14, 2009: Trains, tunnels and waterfalls…
As we woke to yet another pretty day, I couldn’t help but feel a tiny bit smug – here we were having spectacular weather at a time of year few tourists would consider visiting. That smugness would all but vanish when we got to Zermatt; read on.
We left our apartment and caught the 10:42 am train to Zermatt via Brig (27 CHF each). We left Kandersteg via the 15 km Lotschberg Tunnel, which ends at Goppenstein in the canton of Valais.
As we zipped along the rails in a high tech train complete with video screens indicating stops, I was once again awed at how the Swiss have managed to build villages on the most precarious looking mountain tops and ledges. We passed through another series of tunnels high above the valley and gradually descended upon Brig, which was much bigger than I remembered.
It was a bit of a walk to get from platform 7 to platform 14 to catch our connecting train, but we had plenty of time – so much so that we thought we’d gotten on a train that wasn’t actually leaving. We were now on the older, low tech Matterhorn-Gotthard Bahn and as we chugged our way towards Zermatt, we gazed at the waterfalls and sheer mountain cliffs, which gradually gave way to bare vineyards terraced on the mountainsides. Suddenly those imposing snow covered Alps were directly in front of us as we approached the village of Embd (a place I’d like to explore someday).
We continued our climb and snow began to appear at ground level; no budding trees up here, but those hardy wildflowers were doing their best to break free of the snow.
We passed the site of the two consecutive 1991 rockslides near Randa and a shiver went up my spine as I recalled those rock falls we heard during our stay in Kandersteg.
Before we knew it, we were in snow free Zermatt, schlepping our bags through town towards our hotel, Bill fussing at me for not bothering with a luggage cart. We eventually found Hotel Antika, a stone’s throw from the church and directly across the street from the cemetery. We were given room #105, a well equipped, spacious comfortable room with a balcony overlooking the river and sublime Matterhorn view. Our room was much nicer than I had expected, and we were both pleased to find it had good bedside reading lights, bright lighting in the bathroom and a magnifying mirror, although I had to stand on my tiptoes to use it. The only thing our room lacked was a fridge, but the balcony worked in a pinch. Friendly proprietor, free internet access in the lobby, wellness center and oddly enough, a sign in the elevator asking that guests not shower before 7 am or after 10 pm; yes, this would do nicely (175 CHF per night, including breakfast).
http://www.antika.ch/
After sleepy Kandersteg, Zermatt was a complete and utter shock. Not exactly high season, but entirely too busy for the likes of us. We don’t normally make reservations for meals, but decided to play it safe and booked a table for dinner at an old favorite, The Spaghetti Factory in the Post Hotel.
While Bill gave into the cold that had been plaguing him the entire trip, I wandered through the cemetery which was brimming with candles and flowers following Easter services, and took a long walk through the village. The après ski scene was alive and well. Global recession my arse.
Our dinner of four cheese pizza with garlic was very good, but it was entirely too much food, we could have easily shared. Dinner for two with one glass of wine – 55 CHF. Welcome to Zermatt…
Next up: A close call on the sledge run
As we woke to yet another pretty day, I couldn’t help but feel a tiny bit smug – here we were having spectacular weather at a time of year few tourists would consider visiting. That smugness would all but vanish when we got to Zermatt; read on.
We left our apartment and caught the 10:42 am train to Zermatt via Brig (27 CHF each). We left Kandersteg via the 15 km Lotschberg Tunnel, which ends at Goppenstein in the canton of Valais.
As we zipped along the rails in a high tech train complete with video screens indicating stops, I was once again awed at how the Swiss have managed to build villages on the most precarious looking mountain tops and ledges. We passed through another series of tunnels high above the valley and gradually descended upon Brig, which was much bigger than I remembered.
It was a bit of a walk to get from platform 7 to platform 14 to catch our connecting train, but we had plenty of time – so much so that we thought we’d gotten on a train that wasn’t actually leaving. We were now on the older, low tech Matterhorn-Gotthard Bahn and as we chugged our way towards Zermatt, we gazed at the waterfalls and sheer mountain cliffs, which gradually gave way to bare vineyards terraced on the mountainsides. Suddenly those imposing snow covered Alps were directly in front of us as we approached the village of Embd (a place I’d like to explore someday).
We continued our climb and snow began to appear at ground level; no budding trees up here, but those hardy wildflowers were doing their best to break free of the snow.
We passed the site of the two consecutive 1991 rockslides near Randa and a shiver went up my spine as I recalled those rock falls we heard during our stay in Kandersteg.
Before we knew it, we were in snow free Zermatt, schlepping our bags through town towards our hotel, Bill fussing at me for not bothering with a luggage cart. We eventually found Hotel Antika, a stone’s throw from the church and directly across the street from the cemetery. We were given room #105, a well equipped, spacious comfortable room with a balcony overlooking the river and sublime Matterhorn view. Our room was much nicer than I had expected, and we were both pleased to find it had good bedside reading lights, bright lighting in the bathroom and a magnifying mirror, although I had to stand on my tiptoes to use it. The only thing our room lacked was a fridge, but the balcony worked in a pinch. Friendly proprietor, free internet access in the lobby, wellness center and oddly enough, a sign in the elevator asking that guests not shower before 7 am or after 10 pm; yes, this would do nicely (175 CHF per night, including breakfast).
http://www.antika.ch/
After sleepy Kandersteg, Zermatt was a complete and utter shock. Not exactly high season, but entirely too busy for the likes of us. We don’t normally make reservations for meals, but decided to play it safe and booked a table for dinner at an old favorite, The Spaghetti Factory in the Post Hotel.
While Bill gave into the cold that had been plaguing him the entire trip, I wandered through the cemetery which was brimming with candles and flowers following Easter services, and took a long walk through the village. The après ski scene was alive and well. Global recession my arse.
Our dinner of four cheese pizza with garlic was very good, but it was entirely too much food, we could have easily shared. Dinner for two with one glass of wine – 55 CHF. Welcome to Zermatt…
Next up: A close call on the sledge run
May 28th, 2009, 01:17 AM
#17
Join Date: Jan 2003
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Ahhh, mercy! mercy! This is just painful.
The landscapes, the walks, the food, the cosy hotels . . stop, please! You're killing me!!!
((But thanks for the vicarious trip. I do SO appreciate it!))
s
The landscapes, the walks, the food, the cosy hotels . . stop, please! You're killing me!!!
((But thanks for the vicarious trip. I do SO appreciate it!))
s
May 28th, 2009, 03:25 PM
#20
Photos now up for the sections covered to date -
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html
http://www.worldisround.com/articles/353524/index.html
