Anna Maria Barcelona
May 17th, 2014, 10:24 AM
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Anna Maria Barcelona
Who, What, When, Where, Why
Who: 50-something, small town, Midwestern travel addict/empty nester and my 40- something, newly divorced, outdoorsy, drug company rep brother who lives east of the Rockies. I switched my profile pic to a photo of us from a recent family and friends cruise.
What: Drug Company Sales Conference/Incentive trip for my brother's company. During the economic downturn he was downsized when his company was sold. I'm thrilled he has a new job and is thriving. I'm sure some of you know how defeating it can be to be unemployed. With less than two years on the job, he was the only person in the company to win two national awards for 2013, one of which is for his philanthropic work with an organization near and dear to his heart. I'm fully aware that junkets like this are a contributing factor in the high cost of medicine and medical procedures. Not going to defend or deny the practice.
When: May 17-24
Where: Barcelona Baby! Staying at the Hotel Arts, a Ritz property way out of my usual lodging budget. http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Proper...ps&pId=rztbppc I had a pricey drink at the hotel bar one evening four years ago but never imagined staying there. I usually stay in budget-minded apartments via VRBO/Home and Away or an occasional Pricelined hotel for stays shorter than a week.
Why: I've been DB's chief support and cheerleader through a contentious divorce he initiated even though it pained him to do so. He's taking me to Barcelona as his "plus one" to say thanks. We get along great, enjoy the same things and travel well together. He's one of my favorite people on the planet.
DH isn't a fan of city sightseeing, long flights, or jet lag. If there's no biking, skiing or hiking involved he doesn't want to go. He happily stays home and takes care of my menagerie while I travel (as long as I don't add chickens to the backyard zoo, then all bets are off). What can go wrong.... Well, there was the time DH left the gate open and my pony ended up grazing in the front yard. Then there was the time DH came home from work at lunchtime and let the dogs out, not realizing a tree cutting crew had decided to show up unannounced to finish a job that had been postponed due to weather. My "fraidy cat" dog bit one of the tree trimmers who tried to pet him. That dog has since left this world but one of my dogs likes to jump the fence so there's never a dull moment. The last time I traveled without DH, my 13 year old dog developed Old Dog Vestibular Disorder and DH thought she was going to die while I was gone. He never tells me these things while I'm gone. In fact, some incidents I only learn of years later.
To add even more excitement for DH, I've scheduled installation of a new front door and removal of two walls in the kitchen and living room while I'm out of the country. What can go wrong.... Well, the last time I scheduled home improvements while on vacation I came home to salmon colored walls in my living room, dining room and kitchen instead of the subtle beige I'd selected. I'm not gonna stress. I'm gonna drink sangria in Spain and be happy.
Warning- I'm chatty. There will likely be plenty of useless information in this trip report.
Ann. Marie
Who: 50-something, small town, Midwestern travel addict/empty nester and my 40- something, newly divorced, outdoorsy, drug company rep brother who lives east of the Rockies. I switched my profile pic to a photo of us from a recent family and friends cruise.
What: Drug Company Sales Conference/Incentive trip for my brother's company. During the economic downturn he was downsized when his company was sold. I'm thrilled he has a new job and is thriving. I'm sure some of you know how defeating it can be to be unemployed. With less than two years on the job, he was the only person in the company to win two national awards for 2013, one of which is for his philanthropic work with an organization near and dear to his heart. I'm fully aware that junkets like this are a contributing factor in the high cost of medicine and medical procedures. Not going to defend or deny the practice.
When: May 17-24
Where: Barcelona Baby! Staying at the Hotel Arts, a Ritz property way out of my usual lodging budget. http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Proper...ps&pId=rztbppc I had a pricey drink at the hotel bar one evening four years ago but never imagined staying there. I usually stay in budget-minded apartments via VRBO/Home and Away or an occasional Pricelined hotel for stays shorter than a week.
Why: I've been DB's chief support and cheerleader through a contentious divorce he initiated even though it pained him to do so. He's taking me to Barcelona as his "plus one" to say thanks. We get along great, enjoy the same things and travel well together. He's one of my favorite people on the planet.
DH isn't a fan of city sightseeing, long flights, or jet lag. If there's no biking, skiing or hiking involved he doesn't want to go. He happily stays home and takes care of my menagerie while I travel (as long as I don't add chickens to the backyard zoo, then all bets are off). What can go wrong.... Well, there was the time DH left the gate open and my pony ended up grazing in the front yard. Then there was the time DH came home from work at lunchtime and let the dogs out, not realizing a tree cutting crew had decided to show up unannounced to finish a job that had been postponed due to weather. My "fraidy cat" dog bit one of the tree trimmers who tried to pet him. That dog has since left this world but one of my dogs likes to jump the fence so there's never a dull moment. The last time I traveled without DH, my 13 year old dog developed Old Dog Vestibular Disorder and DH thought she was going to die while I was gone. He never tells me these things while I'm gone. In fact, some incidents I only learn of years later.
To add even more excitement for DH, I've scheduled installation of a new front door and removal of two walls in the kitchen and living room while I'm out of the country. What can go wrong.... Well, the last time I scheduled home improvements while on vacation I came home to salmon colored walls in my living room, dining room and kitchen instead of the subtle beige I'd selected. I'm not gonna stress. I'm gonna drink sangria in Spain and be happy.
Warning- I'm chatty. There will likely be plenty of useless information in this trip report.
Ann. Marie
May 18th, 2014, 04:25 AM
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Eva Yerbabuena, perhaps the finest flamenco dancer in the world the past fifteen years, dances in Barcelona on Thursday May 22. "¡Ay! is the opening performance of this years Barcelona flamenco festival. The performance premiered March 2013 in Sadler's Wells in London to standing ovations. Info and tickets: http://mercatflors.cat/en/espectacle...flamenco-ay-4/
Brilliant José Valencia sings. Here is Eva Yerbabuena in Córdoba last June. Valencia sings from 1.45: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clCZYH5VNWw
Yerbabuena's spectacular signature soleá: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IW3mZNprq0
Here she's up at Alhambra some years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLDSN-4iIms
This years edition of the festival is dedicated to the legendary flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya from Barcelona (1918-1963). The whole program: http://mercatflors.cat/en/ciclesifes...amenco-2014-3/
I also very much recommend to book a table one night in Barcelona classic 7 Portes from 1836. Tons of history in the walls, genuine traditional Catalan food and the best atmosphere. Go after 9pm (when the locals go): http://www.7portes.com/angles/
The 175 years anniversary a couple of years ago was a major Barcelona event: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujDIsGzDO38
Have had fabulous fish soup, monkfish, lamb shoulder and Arròs caldós (something like a soupy paella, delicious) here the past couple of years. Huge portions, so be careful with the starters. Expect some 40-50€ pp.
http://www.spottedbylocals.com/barcelona/7-portes/
Picasso used to go here, Carmen Amaya danced here as a little girl accompanied by her father on guitar, the greatest Spanish poet of the past century Federico García Lorca first recited his famous Romencero gitano here etc., etc.
Brilliant José Valencia sings. Here is Eva Yerbabuena in Córdoba last June. Valencia sings from 1.45: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=clCZYH5VNWw
Yerbabuena's spectacular signature soleá: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IW3mZNprq0
Here she's up at Alhambra some years ago: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KLDSN-4iIms
This years edition of the festival is dedicated to the legendary flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya from Barcelona (1918-1963). The whole program: http://mercatflors.cat/en/ciclesifes...amenco-2014-3/
I also very much recommend to book a table one night in Barcelona classic 7 Portes from 1836. Tons of history in the walls, genuine traditional Catalan food and the best atmosphere. Go after 9pm (when the locals go): http://www.7portes.com/angles/
The 175 years anniversary a couple of years ago was a major Barcelona event: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ujDIsGzDO38
Have had fabulous fish soup, monkfish, lamb shoulder and Arròs caldós (something like a soupy paella, delicious) here the past couple of years. Huge portions, so be careful with the starters. Expect some 40-50€ pp.
http://www.spottedbylocals.com/barcelona/7-portes/
Picasso used to go here, Carmen Amaya danced here as a little girl accompanied by her father on guitar, the greatest Spanish poet of the past century Federico García Lorca first recited his famous Romencero gitano here etc., etc.
May 18th, 2014, 11:42 PM
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Travel Day
Flights were booked by a travel agent for DB's company. I would never book flights with just a 45 minute layover between domestic and international flights and can't believe that's even an option.
Even without a weather delay, crew shortage or mechanical issue, forty five minutes doesn't allow much wiggle time for delivery of a gate checked carry-on or for getting from one terminal to another. Boarding was scheduled to start for my international flight from Newark at the same time my original domestic flight was set to arrive in Newark. If I were to miss the Newark to Barcelona direct flight the next option includes a layover in Portugal arriving in Barcelona late Sunday afternoon, not in the morning. I'd likely miss the planned fancy schmaltzy evening dinner event on a dinner boat. As someone who loves to get fancy but spends more time in plastic boots shoveling horse poop, than in heels, that' was not an option! Because the later flight was fully booked anyway, I was advised that I might not make it to Barcelona until Monday.
For $300 I had the option of changing my domestic flight to one that would get me to Newark well in advance of my international flight. With thirteen total seats still available on two morning flights, I decided to gamble and wait until 24 hours before my scheduled domestic flight so I'd only incur a $75 same day change fee rather than the $300 fee if booked earlier in the week.
Sh*t. By the time I could rebook for the $75 same day fee all thirteen seats had evaporated. DB was in the same boat from Denver to Newark. Oh well.
The night before departure, I decided to try again in case seats had been released. Luckily, I got a seat on an am
Indy to Newark flight but was informed that the flight was already delayed two hours because there was no crew due to weather delays elsewhere. I was advised to be at the airport as if it was leaving at 8:25am just in case. As a "Turning lemons into lemonade" kinda gal, I killed time at the Indy airport with a chair massage and Facebook.
On the morning of departure, DB got a seat on an earlier Denver to Newark flight as well after repeated failed attempts the day before. Due to the long layover in Newark, I thought I might buy a day pass to the United Lounge. On my way to check it out, I was distracted by a cute little eatery called Vino Volo lined with wine bottles. I settled into a comfy chair with electric outlets nearby, a flight of wine, free wifi and smoked salmon rolls. For less than the cost of the United Day Pass I spent several enjoyable hours removed from the hustle and bustle of the terminal.
A memorable moment from my domestic flight to Newark. I got to the general vicinity of my seat and there was a family congregating, trying to figure out their seating arrangements. Mom, Dad, Grandma, Aunt, toddler and infant. The dad asked if I'd sit in his assigned seat so he could sit with his wife and infant. Uh yeah, I didn't want to sit beside a screaming infant if I could avoid it. The toddler sat on Auntie's lap directly behind me and started crying immediately. With only four hours of sleep, I dozed off even with the commotion behind me. Woke up mid-flight because my hair was getting pinched in my seat. Oh wait, not getting pinched, the now quiet toddler had grabbed my hair and was pulling. Took both his aunt and me to untangle my hair from his chubby little fist. I turned around to peek at him and he was adorable and finally laughing instead of crying. Babe, if it makes you happy, I'm cool with a few less strands of hair.
International flight painless and u eventful. Watched a cheesy predictable Michael Caine movie called "Last Love" purely for the Parisian setting.
Ann Marie
Flights were booked by a travel agent for DB's company. I would never book flights with just a 45 minute layover between domestic and international flights and can't believe that's even an option.
Even without a weather delay, crew shortage or mechanical issue, forty five minutes doesn't allow much wiggle time for delivery of a gate checked carry-on or for getting from one terminal to another. Boarding was scheduled to start for my international flight from Newark at the same time my original domestic flight was set to arrive in Newark. If I were to miss the Newark to Barcelona direct flight the next option includes a layover in Portugal arriving in Barcelona late Sunday afternoon, not in the morning. I'd likely miss the planned fancy schmaltzy evening dinner event on a dinner boat. As someone who loves to get fancy but spends more time in plastic boots shoveling horse poop, than in heels, that' was not an option! Because the later flight was fully booked anyway, I was advised that I might not make it to Barcelona until Monday.
For $300 I had the option of changing my domestic flight to one that would get me to Newark well in advance of my international flight. With thirteen total seats still available on two morning flights, I decided to gamble and wait until 24 hours before my scheduled domestic flight so I'd only incur a $75 same day change fee rather than the $300 fee if booked earlier in the week.
Sh*t. By the time I could rebook for the $75 same day fee all thirteen seats had evaporated. DB was in the same boat from Denver to Newark. Oh well.
The night before departure, I decided to try again in case seats had been released. Luckily, I got a seat on an am
Indy to Newark flight but was informed that the flight was already delayed two hours because there was no crew due to weather delays elsewhere. I was advised to be at the airport as if it was leaving at 8:25am just in case. As a "Turning lemons into lemonade" kinda gal, I killed time at the Indy airport with a chair massage and Facebook.
On the morning of departure, DB got a seat on an earlier Denver to Newark flight as well after repeated failed attempts the day before. Due to the long layover in Newark, I thought I might buy a day pass to the United Lounge. On my way to check it out, I was distracted by a cute little eatery called Vino Volo lined with wine bottles. I settled into a comfy chair with electric outlets nearby, a flight of wine, free wifi and smoked salmon rolls. For less than the cost of the United Day Pass I spent several enjoyable hours removed from the hustle and bustle of the terminal.
A memorable moment from my domestic flight to Newark. I got to the general vicinity of my seat and there was a family congregating, trying to figure out their seating arrangements. Mom, Dad, Grandma, Aunt, toddler and infant. The dad asked if I'd sit in his assigned seat so he could sit with his wife and infant. Uh yeah, I didn't want to sit beside a screaming infant if I could avoid it. The toddler sat on Auntie's lap directly behind me and started crying immediately. With only four hours of sleep, I dozed off even with the commotion behind me. Woke up mid-flight because my hair was getting pinched in my seat. Oh wait, not getting pinched, the now quiet toddler had grabbed my hair and was pulling. Took both his aunt and me to untangle my hair from his chubby little fist. I turned around to peek at him and he was adorable and finally laughing instead of crying. Babe, if it makes you happy, I'm cool with a few less strands of hair.
International flight painless and u eventful. Watched a cheesy predictable Michael Caine movie called "Last Love" purely for the Parisian setting.
Ann Marie
May 19th, 2014, 01:13 AM
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Sunday
After admiring the red Ferraris and a gleaming black Maserati parked at the entrance of our hotel, we checked in and enjoyed a lovely breakfast provided for DB's group on a terrace eye-level with the giant Frank Gehry fish sculpture then set out to walk, walk walk to stave off jetlag. We stopped to snap photos of Rebecca Horn's Homage to La Barceloneta structure (it looks like there are light tubes inside, is it lit up at night?) and to admire the nearby sand art creations. The busy beach walk was filled with families, joggers, bikes, and an occasional skateboard. We enjoyed seeing dogs of all shapes and sizes and watching people attempt to balance on stand up paddle boards, not an easy feat in the choppy water. We stopped in at the W Hotel hoping to go to the bar at the top for a drink with a view. No such luck, not open until evening. On our way back toward our hotel, we stopped for a drink at one of the beach bars then wandered through the streets of La Barceloneta, a wonderful photo op of brightly colored laundry flying in the wind on nearly every balcony.
After our three mile jaunt, I soaked in the giant tub in my room, took a 30 minute power nap then it was time to put on my "Big Girl" shoes and fancy dress for the first company GTG. We walked just a few hundred yards to climb aboard the dinner boat and the party was on. With choppy seas, and people and plates tipping in all directions, the captain wisely circled back to the dock quickly. A group of local musicians played throughout the evening and somehow I ended up with them on their knees serenading me with a made up on the spot song which was mostly "Anna Maria" over and over before the tambourine man decided the two of us should dance.
After dinner and much sangria and champagne, many in our party headed to the beachside nightclubs by the hotel. Not my scene. If I'm in Barcelona, I want to see Barcelona so I pulled on a pair of jeans and my faux leather motorcycle jacket and DB and I jumped in a taxi and off to El Borne in search of local flavor. Dropped off in the shadow of Mercat del Born, we strolled along Passieg del Borne, winding through the myriad of narrow passages, admiring the medieval facade of the Museu Picasso on Carrer del Montcada before enjoying a sangria (definitely my Drink of the Week) on Placa de Santa Maria. We admired the 13th century basilica and watched a steady stream of locals and tourists until about 1:30am. In that setting, I finally feel like I've arrived in Barca. We walked to a busy road and easily got a taxi for the five minute ride back to the hotel where we decided to have one last drink. I finally put my head on the pillow at 3am. Zzzzzz.....
Ann Marie
After admiring the red Ferraris and a gleaming black Maserati parked at the entrance of our hotel, we checked in and enjoyed a lovely breakfast provided for DB's group on a terrace eye-level with the giant Frank Gehry fish sculpture then set out to walk, walk walk to stave off jetlag. We stopped to snap photos of Rebecca Horn's Homage to La Barceloneta structure (it looks like there are light tubes inside, is it lit up at night?) and to admire the nearby sand art creations. The busy beach walk was filled with families, joggers, bikes, and an occasional skateboard. We enjoyed seeing dogs of all shapes and sizes and watching people attempt to balance on stand up paddle boards, not an easy feat in the choppy water. We stopped in at the W Hotel hoping to go to the bar at the top for a drink with a view. No such luck, not open until evening. On our way back toward our hotel, we stopped for a drink at one of the beach bars then wandered through the streets of La Barceloneta, a wonderful photo op of brightly colored laundry flying in the wind on nearly every balcony.
After our three mile jaunt, I soaked in the giant tub in my room, took a 30 minute power nap then it was time to put on my "Big Girl" shoes and fancy dress for the first company GTG. We walked just a few hundred yards to climb aboard the dinner boat and the party was on. With choppy seas, and people and plates tipping in all directions, the captain wisely circled back to the dock quickly. A group of local musicians played throughout the evening and somehow I ended up with them on their knees serenading me with a made up on the spot song which was mostly "Anna Maria" over and over before the tambourine man decided the two of us should dance.
After dinner and much sangria and champagne, many in our party headed to the beachside nightclubs by the hotel. Not my scene. If I'm in Barcelona, I want to see Barcelona so I pulled on a pair of jeans and my faux leather motorcycle jacket and DB and I jumped in a taxi and off to El Borne in search of local flavor. Dropped off in the shadow of Mercat del Born, we strolled along Passieg del Borne, winding through the myriad of narrow passages, admiring the medieval facade of the Museu Picasso on Carrer del Montcada before enjoying a sangria (definitely my Drink of the Week) on Placa de Santa Maria. We admired the 13th century basilica and watched a steady stream of locals and tourists until about 1:30am. In that setting, I finally feel like I've arrived in Barca. We walked to a busy road and easily got a taxi for the five minute ride back to the hotel where we decided to have one last drink. I finally put my head on the pillow at 3am. Zzzzzz.....
Ann Marie
May 19th, 2014, 01:22 AM
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kimhe, thanks for the info! Five minutes before reading your recommendation, I had the concierge book us a table at 7 Portes. A United pilot told my brother it is his favorite Barcelona restaurant so we decided to check it out.
Please forgive grammar, typos and lack of paragraph breaks. I blame sleep deprivation and trying to type on my iPhone. Free wifi is only available in the hotel lobby and I'm too cheap to drop 25 euros a day for the luxury of wifi in my room.
DB has a morning meeting then we have an afternoon City Highlights tour that finishes with a stop at Casa Batllo, my favorite Gaudi building.
Ann Marie
Please forgive grammar, typos and lack of paragraph breaks. I blame sleep deprivation and trying to type on my iPhone. Free wifi is only available in the hotel lobby and I'm too cheap to drop 25 euros a day for the luxury of wifi in my room.
DB has a morning meeting then we have an afternoon City Highlights tour that finishes with a stop at Casa Batllo, my favorite Gaudi building.
Ann Marie
May 19th, 2014, 10:54 AM
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And Woody Allen was in 7 Portes probably while shooting Vicky Cristina Barcelona ;-)
http://www.hduquesadecardona.com/blo...rtes-7-portes/
http://www.hduquesadecardona.com/blo...rtes-7-portes/
May 19th, 2014, 11:18 AM
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... and I can't help include a seven week and seven articles tribute to 7 (Set) Portes in the major Barcelona newspaper La Vanguardia during the 175 years anniversary in 2011 (in English): http://www.slideshare.net/7Portes/re...rdia-neswpaper
Jun 2nd, 2014, 12:09 PM
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Apologies for the delay. Life got in the way!
Monday
DB and I started the day with a visit to Gaudi’s Casa Batlló. Along with Sagrada Familia, Park Guell, and La Pedrera, Casa Batlló is one of the most popular tourist sites in Barcelona. In order to minimize waiting to enter, I recommend buying tickets online in advance, good for 365 days from purchase. If visiting Barcelona during peak tourist season, consider purchasing the 3 euro “fast pass” option (available only online) to further reduce waiting in line. http://www.casabatllo.es/en/online-tickets/ The entrance fee includes a very good audioguide which is informative with regard to both Casa Batllo and Gaudi’s vision in general.
Casa Batllo is a Gaudi remodel of an existing home originally built in 1877 in a traditional style of the period. Wealthy businessman, Josep Batlló, purchased the home in 1900 with the intention of tearing it down and building a new home in its place. Instead, Gaudi was given free rein to do as he pleased to design an attention grabbing, over the top façade and interior. In addition to redesigning the existing home, he also added several floors to the building.
I believe I’m correct in saying that Gaudi left his design open to interpretation, never explaining the design but there seems to be a good bit of Catalan national symbolism in his choice of decoration. The scaly roofline suggests the Dragon of Evil impaled on the cross of St. George, patron saint of Catalonia. The skulls and bones on the balconies below may be the dragon's previous victims. Throughout the home, Gaudi created ceilings, stair rails, light fixtures, doors and windows that are inspired by nature. The interior foyer has a feeling of being underwater with light tiles on the lower floors intensifying to deeper color on the upper floors. The white ribbed ceiling of the hallway on the upper laundry level makes me feel as if I’m inside a large sea creature.
This creative virtual tour of the home suggests possibile inspiration for Gaudi's designs in the home. http://youtu.be/G7pPXEG26zQ If you’d like to delve further into the home, here is a virtual tour of each room that is open to the public. http://www.casabatllo.es/en/virtual-tour/
During your tour you can stand in the rose balcony and have your photo taken for purchase inside the home a bit like the photos that are available after riding a roller coaster. While on the Noble Floor outdoor terrace, look for the beautiful green lacy exterior of Casa Lleo Morero at the other end of the block.
This long video is of a light show displayed on the exterior façade of Casa Batllo in 2012 in celebration of a tenth anniversary of a revitalization project on the building. If you don’t want to watch the full twenty minute video, watch just the first few minutes then go to the 11:20 mark to see the dragon sequence. http://youtu.be/Pghwt8hwwMI When touring the home, you can also watch a shorter version of the light show displayed on a miniature façade of the home.
The block of Passieg de Gracia on which Casea Batllo sits is known as the Block of Discord because of the variety of styles of architecture, most from the same period at the turn of the 20th century by architects loosely operating in the art nouveau or modernism styles. I suspect the architects were trying to outdo one another on orders of their clients in order to have the most unusual and talked about home possible. At the time that the homes on this particular block were being redesigned, the wide, tree-lined Passieg de Gracia was the place to see and be seen. Be sure to check out the streetlights and incorporated benches in the median of the street (designed by Pere Falqués i Urpí) and the lovely blue green sidewalk stones designed by Gaudi.
Immediately beside Casa Pedrera is my favorite building on the block, Casa Amatller at Passeig de Gracia, 41. http://barcelonaaaaa.files.wordpress...ller.jpg?w=960 The building is privately owned, the original apartment is being restored, possibly for future tours. The main entrance is always open and well worth a peek inside. Chocolate industrialist Antoni Amatller bought the building in 1898 and commissioned Josep Puig i Cadafalch to remodel it. The façade and entry have a mix of wrought iron, sculptures and ceramics. Near the doorway is St. George fighting the dragon and a dancing bear with his trainer, a traditional form of entertainment since medieval times. Look for a princess, thought to be Amatller's daughter on the façade and see the animals above pouring chocolate, a reference to the family business that brought them fortune.
Once inside the entry to Casa Amatller, notice that nearly every inch of space is highly decorated including the ceilings and under the staircase. Look up at the beautiful skylight over the stairway. See another nod to Saint George’s dragon in the gothic style wrought iron light fixtures. The doorway of Casa Amatller is a lovely “frame” for a photograph of your group.
Continue walking down the block to see the exterior of Casa Lleó-Morera at Passeig de Gràcia, 35. This home was also extensively remodeled in 1904-1906. The architect for the remodel, Lluís Domènech i Montaner also designed the highly ornamented Palau de la Música Catalana http://www.palaumusica.cat/en/the-ar...building_23602 and the beautiful Hospital Saint Paul. http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel..._Pau-BR-1.html The façade of Casa Lleó-Morera includes sculptures of women using the modern inventions of the age: the telephone, the telegraph, the photographic camera, and the Victrola.
Across the street from Casa Batllo is a McDonald’s café complete with umbrella topped outdoor seating and a sweets case labeled McCafe. Who knew you could buy macarons from Mickey D’s?
After our visit to Casa Batllo, we hopped on a bus with others from DB’s company for a two hour Highlights Tour driving past Placa Cataluña, the harbor, Sagrada Familia and the Palau Nacional which houses the Museum of National Art of Catalan (aka MNAC). The National Palace’s neo-Renaissance exterior makes it easy to believe the building is much older than its eighty-five years. The palace was built quickly of modest materials and without substantial foundation for the 1929 International Exhibition as it was meant to be a temporary building, torn down after the exposition. When it was decided to house MNAC in the palace, the building was renovated in 1934 and has since undergone additional renovations to preserve the building. The Magic Fountain Show of Montjuic also created for the 1929 International Exhibition occurs nightly by the National Palace. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to get to either MNAC or the Magic Fountain Show. Maybe next time.
Just above the National Palace, near the top of Montjuic, we stopped to peek inside the stadium used during the 1992 Olympics. The stadium was originally built for the 1929 International Exposition with the hope that Barcelona would be named host of the 1936 Olympics. In 1931, Berlin was instead named host of the 1936 Olympics. In 1936, a newly elected republican government of Spain decided to boycott the official Olympics in fascist Germany and planned to hold a competing Olympiad in Barcelona. The Barcelona games were cancelled when the Spanish Civil War broke out near the start of the planned games. Some of the athletes who’d already arrived for the games from other countries stayed and helped defend the Republic. In 2001 the stadium was renamed in honor of Lluís Companys, the President of Catalunya during the Spanish Civil War who was executed in 1940 at nearby Montjuic Castle after being captured by Nazis and handed over to the Franco Regime.
During our bus tour, the tour guide talked briefly about the history of Catalonia as a “somewhat” autonomous region of Spain. The level of autonomy has ebbed and flowed over many centuries. When someone asked if we were going to see the Montjuic Castle, he explained that since its construction in the 17th century, the castle had not been used to protect the citizens of Barcelona but rather to control them. He jokingly said, “We don’t like that castle, so I’m not showing it to you today.” He also spoke about growing up as a very young boy under Franco’s rule with parents who knew no other government except Franco’s dictatorship. During his nearly four decade dictatorship, Franco banned the celebration Catalan history and the use of Catalan culture and language. Catalonia was devastated by the civil war and rebuilding both physically and economically was slow. Our guide remembers that when Franco died in 1975, all the champagne and wine his father had in stock in his grocery store (meant to be sold for New Year’s Eve celebrations) sold out in one day to celebrate Franco’s passing.
After a thirty minute power nap, DB and I and four others cabbed it to Passieg del Borne and wandered the narrow passages that wind around the Basillica Santa Maria del Mar then settled on dinner at nearby Taller de Tapas on Carrer de l’Argenteria, 51. Taller de Tapas is a chain restaurant but this location is atmospheric both inside and out and every dish ordered was enjoyed by all. Several in our party recommended it to others in the next few days. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ta...25f3f989?hl=en
Back to Hotel Arts for what became a nightly GTG for those in our group and also a large group of British bankers (I think) at the Hotel Arts Bar for overpriced drinks until 3am. http://gallivantguide.com/wp-content...celona-bar.jpg
Ann Marie
Monday
DB and I started the day with a visit to Gaudi’s Casa Batlló. Along with Sagrada Familia, Park Guell, and La Pedrera, Casa Batlló is one of the most popular tourist sites in Barcelona. In order to minimize waiting to enter, I recommend buying tickets online in advance, good for 365 days from purchase. If visiting Barcelona during peak tourist season, consider purchasing the 3 euro “fast pass” option (available only online) to further reduce waiting in line. http://www.casabatllo.es/en/online-tickets/ The entrance fee includes a very good audioguide which is informative with regard to both Casa Batllo and Gaudi’s vision in general.
Casa Batllo is a Gaudi remodel of an existing home originally built in 1877 in a traditional style of the period. Wealthy businessman, Josep Batlló, purchased the home in 1900 with the intention of tearing it down and building a new home in its place. Instead, Gaudi was given free rein to do as he pleased to design an attention grabbing, over the top façade and interior. In addition to redesigning the existing home, he also added several floors to the building.
I believe I’m correct in saying that Gaudi left his design open to interpretation, never explaining the design but there seems to be a good bit of Catalan national symbolism in his choice of decoration. The scaly roofline suggests the Dragon of Evil impaled on the cross of St. George, patron saint of Catalonia. The skulls and bones on the balconies below may be the dragon's previous victims. Throughout the home, Gaudi created ceilings, stair rails, light fixtures, doors and windows that are inspired by nature. The interior foyer has a feeling of being underwater with light tiles on the lower floors intensifying to deeper color on the upper floors. The white ribbed ceiling of the hallway on the upper laundry level makes me feel as if I’m inside a large sea creature.
This creative virtual tour of the home suggests possibile inspiration for Gaudi's designs in the home. http://youtu.be/G7pPXEG26zQ If you’d like to delve further into the home, here is a virtual tour of each room that is open to the public. http://www.casabatllo.es/en/virtual-tour/
During your tour you can stand in the rose balcony and have your photo taken for purchase inside the home a bit like the photos that are available after riding a roller coaster. While on the Noble Floor outdoor terrace, look for the beautiful green lacy exterior of Casa Lleo Morero at the other end of the block.
This long video is of a light show displayed on the exterior façade of Casa Batllo in 2012 in celebration of a tenth anniversary of a revitalization project on the building. If you don’t want to watch the full twenty minute video, watch just the first few minutes then go to the 11:20 mark to see the dragon sequence. http://youtu.be/Pghwt8hwwMI When touring the home, you can also watch a shorter version of the light show displayed on a miniature façade of the home.
The block of Passieg de Gracia on which Casea Batllo sits is known as the Block of Discord because of the variety of styles of architecture, most from the same period at the turn of the 20th century by architects loosely operating in the art nouveau or modernism styles. I suspect the architects were trying to outdo one another on orders of their clients in order to have the most unusual and talked about home possible. At the time that the homes on this particular block were being redesigned, the wide, tree-lined Passieg de Gracia was the place to see and be seen. Be sure to check out the streetlights and incorporated benches in the median of the street (designed by Pere Falqués i Urpí) and the lovely blue green sidewalk stones designed by Gaudi.
Immediately beside Casa Pedrera is my favorite building on the block, Casa Amatller at Passeig de Gracia, 41. http://barcelonaaaaa.files.wordpress...ller.jpg?w=960 The building is privately owned, the original apartment is being restored, possibly for future tours. The main entrance is always open and well worth a peek inside. Chocolate industrialist Antoni Amatller bought the building in 1898 and commissioned Josep Puig i Cadafalch to remodel it. The façade and entry have a mix of wrought iron, sculptures and ceramics. Near the doorway is St. George fighting the dragon and a dancing bear with his trainer, a traditional form of entertainment since medieval times. Look for a princess, thought to be Amatller's daughter on the façade and see the animals above pouring chocolate, a reference to the family business that brought them fortune.
Once inside the entry to Casa Amatller, notice that nearly every inch of space is highly decorated including the ceilings and under the staircase. Look up at the beautiful skylight over the stairway. See another nod to Saint George’s dragon in the gothic style wrought iron light fixtures. The doorway of Casa Amatller is a lovely “frame” for a photograph of your group.
Continue walking down the block to see the exterior of Casa Lleó-Morera at Passeig de Gràcia, 35. This home was also extensively remodeled in 1904-1906. The architect for the remodel, Lluís Domènech i Montaner also designed the highly ornamented Palau de la Música Catalana http://www.palaumusica.cat/en/the-ar...building_23602 and the beautiful Hospital Saint Paul. http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel..._Pau-BR-1.html The façade of Casa Lleó-Morera includes sculptures of women using the modern inventions of the age: the telephone, the telegraph, the photographic camera, and the Victrola.
Across the street from Casa Batllo is a McDonald’s café complete with umbrella topped outdoor seating and a sweets case labeled McCafe. Who knew you could buy macarons from Mickey D’s?
After our visit to Casa Batllo, we hopped on a bus with others from DB’s company for a two hour Highlights Tour driving past Placa Cataluña, the harbor, Sagrada Familia and the Palau Nacional which houses the Museum of National Art of Catalan (aka MNAC). The National Palace’s neo-Renaissance exterior makes it easy to believe the building is much older than its eighty-five years. The palace was built quickly of modest materials and without substantial foundation for the 1929 International Exhibition as it was meant to be a temporary building, torn down after the exposition. When it was decided to house MNAC in the palace, the building was renovated in 1934 and has since undergone additional renovations to preserve the building. The Magic Fountain Show of Montjuic also created for the 1929 International Exhibition occurs nightly by the National Palace. Unfortunately, I’ve yet to get to either MNAC or the Magic Fountain Show. Maybe next time.
Just above the National Palace, near the top of Montjuic, we stopped to peek inside the stadium used during the 1992 Olympics. The stadium was originally built for the 1929 International Exposition with the hope that Barcelona would be named host of the 1936 Olympics. In 1931, Berlin was instead named host of the 1936 Olympics. In 1936, a newly elected republican government of Spain decided to boycott the official Olympics in fascist Germany and planned to hold a competing Olympiad in Barcelona. The Barcelona games were cancelled when the Spanish Civil War broke out near the start of the planned games. Some of the athletes who’d already arrived for the games from other countries stayed and helped defend the Republic. In 2001 the stadium was renamed in honor of Lluís Companys, the President of Catalunya during the Spanish Civil War who was executed in 1940 at nearby Montjuic Castle after being captured by Nazis and handed over to the Franco Regime.
During our bus tour, the tour guide talked briefly about the history of Catalonia as a “somewhat” autonomous region of Spain. The level of autonomy has ebbed and flowed over many centuries. When someone asked if we were going to see the Montjuic Castle, he explained that since its construction in the 17th century, the castle had not been used to protect the citizens of Barcelona but rather to control them. He jokingly said, “We don’t like that castle, so I’m not showing it to you today.” He also spoke about growing up as a very young boy under Franco’s rule with parents who knew no other government except Franco’s dictatorship. During his nearly four decade dictatorship, Franco banned the celebration Catalan history and the use of Catalan culture and language. Catalonia was devastated by the civil war and rebuilding both physically and economically was slow. Our guide remembers that when Franco died in 1975, all the champagne and wine his father had in stock in his grocery store (meant to be sold for New Year’s Eve celebrations) sold out in one day to celebrate Franco’s passing.
After a thirty minute power nap, DB and I and four others cabbed it to Passieg del Borne and wandered the narrow passages that wind around the Basillica Santa Maria del Mar then settled on dinner at nearby Taller de Tapas on Carrer de l’Argenteria, 51. Taller de Tapas is a chain restaurant but this location is atmospheric both inside and out and every dish ordered was enjoyed by all. Several in our party recommended it to others in the next few days. https://www.google.com/maps/place/Ta...25f3f989?hl=en
Back to Hotel Arts for what became a nightly GTG for those in our group and also a large group of British bankers (I think) at the Hotel Arts Bar for overpriced drinks until 3am. http://gallivantguide.com/wp-content...celona-bar.jpg
Ann Marie
Jun 2nd, 2014, 06:33 PM
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A couple of doors from Taller de Tapas is a gelateria with heavenly dark chocolate gelato. Some of my dining companions got Rocher flavored gelato that tasted like Ferroro Rocher candy. Way too sweet for me but they talked about how good it was the rest of the week. https://www.google.com/maps/@41.3836...!6m1!1e1?hl=en
Ann Marie
Ann Marie
