Andalucia trip including Ronda and Jerez/Cadiz (with 15 month old)
Jul 12th, 2013, 11:12 AM
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Andalucia trip including Ronda and Jerez/Cadiz (with 15 month old)
Hello Fodorites!
I need help with planning my trip to Spain with my husband, mother and 15 month old daughter. Our trip might be a little unusual unless you have a little background. My husband's mother was from Jerez and met his father in Cadiz (he was stationed at Rota, where they lived for several years). Both parents have passed away and DH has never had the opportunity to visit Spain. So, we are taking our daughter this September (first week) and would like to see highlights while also seeing some of Jerez and Cadiz (some would argue also highlights).
Our original plan was Granada (2 nights)--Sevilla (3 nights)--Jerez (2 nights with side trip to Cadiz and Arcos), then back to Malaga through Ronda (as day trip). However, we just learned that the Feria de Ronda is over the first few days of our trip. My husband is fascinated by the corrida and would love to see one, but there are none in Sevilla while we are there. So, we feel like it would be a pity to miss the feria and to see one of the corridas (preferably the corrida Goyesca, if we can get tickets (anyone have suggestions?)). We also don't want to be too rushed given our 15 month old (my mom is coming with us to help with her and will stay with her in the evenings so DH and I can hit the town). So, now we are thinking:
Day 1 (Fri): Malaga to Ronda (perhaps along the coast for scenic drive)
Day 2 (Sat): Ronda--see town at leisure, perhaps afternoon trip to another pueblo blanco (Olvera? Grazamala?). Corrida Goyesca that night (if we can get tickets...fingers crossed!)
Day 3 (Sun): Ronda in a.m. to enjoy the parade of carriages then to Sevilla via Arcos.
Day 4 (Mon): Sevilla
Day 5 (Tuesday): day trip to Jerez for Equestrian show; walk around town and see bodegas; enjoy Cadiz in afternoon and evening--back to Sevilla for overnight (too much for little one?)
Day 6 (Wed): Sevilla
Day 7 (Thurs): travel to Granada around noon (during siesta and baby nap)
Day 8 (Fri): Granada/Alhambra in a.m. spend day at leisure but must end up in Malaga for early a.m. flight on Sat morning (perhaps stop in Nerja on the way to Malaga--have some tapas, walk promenade and watch sunset); overnight in Malaga
Day 9 (Sat): 9:45 a.m. flight home
Is this WAY too much? There is the harvest festival in Jerez from 10th - 15th; should we stay there a couple of nights rather than only day trip? We could go to Jerez from Ronda for 1/2 nights and then on to Sevilla, but we would miss the horse show and also the festival. Is the horse show a MUST? Anyone know anything about the harvest festival in Jerez? I hate to miss the Alhambra in Granada and the Albaicin and views of Sierra Nevadas, but are we better off spending a couple of days in Jerez and Cadiz and then rest of time in Sevilla? Sorry to inundate you, but would so appreciate your thoughts and advice!
I need help with planning my trip to Spain with my husband, mother and 15 month old daughter. Our trip might be a little unusual unless you have a little background. My husband's mother was from Jerez and met his father in Cadiz (he was stationed at Rota, where they lived for several years). Both parents have passed away and DH has never had the opportunity to visit Spain. So, we are taking our daughter this September (first week) and would like to see highlights while also seeing some of Jerez and Cadiz (some would argue also highlights).
Our original plan was Granada (2 nights)--Sevilla (3 nights)--Jerez (2 nights with side trip to Cadiz and Arcos), then back to Malaga through Ronda (as day trip). However, we just learned that the Feria de Ronda is over the first few days of our trip. My husband is fascinated by the corrida and would love to see one, but there are none in Sevilla while we are there. So, we feel like it would be a pity to miss the feria and to see one of the corridas (preferably the corrida Goyesca, if we can get tickets (anyone have suggestions?)). We also don't want to be too rushed given our 15 month old (my mom is coming with us to help with her and will stay with her in the evenings so DH and I can hit the town). So, now we are thinking:
Day 1 (Fri): Malaga to Ronda (perhaps along the coast for scenic drive)
Day 2 (Sat): Ronda--see town at leisure, perhaps afternoon trip to another pueblo blanco (Olvera? Grazamala?). Corrida Goyesca that night (if we can get tickets...fingers crossed!)
Day 3 (Sun): Ronda in a.m. to enjoy the parade of carriages then to Sevilla via Arcos.
Day 4 (Mon): Sevilla
Day 5 (Tuesday): day trip to Jerez for Equestrian show; walk around town and see bodegas; enjoy Cadiz in afternoon and evening--back to Sevilla for overnight (too much for little one?)
Day 6 (Wed): Sevilla
Day 7 (Thurs): travel to Granada around noon (during siesta and baby nap)
Day 8 (Fri): Granada/Alhambra in a.m. spend day at leisure but must end up in Malaga for early a.m. flight on Sat morning (perhaps stop in Nerja on the way to Malaga--have some tapas, walk promenade and watch sunset); overnight in Malaga
Day 9 (Sat): 9:45 a.m. flight home
Is this WAY too much? There is the harvest festival in Jerez from 10th - 15th; should we stay there a couple of nights rather than only day trip? We could go to Jerez from Ronda for 1/2 nights and then on to Sevilla, but we would miss the horse show and also the festival. Is the horse show a MUST? Anyone know anything about the harvest festival in Jerez? I hate to miss the Alhambra in Granada and the Albaicin and views of Sierra Nevadas, but are we better off spending a couple of days in Jerez and Cadiz and then rest of time in Sevilla? Sorry to inundate you, but would so appreciate your thoughts and advice!
Jul 12th, 2013, 11:31 AM
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One thing to consider is that early September could be quite hot.
With such a great history, it seems a shame to rush through Jerez and Cadiz, but frankly I did not find Jerez as pleasant as Sevilla and Cordoba. That could have a lot to do with the fact that I was there on a Sunday afternoon and everything was dead (I completely admire that Sunday is family/leisure day, but it was depressing as a tourist).
I think you will greatly enjoy being in Ronda during festival time--I happened upon a small religious festival while I was there and it was really neat.
I wonder if you could visit Granada as a day trip from Ronda in order to reduce your number of hotel changes? It is about 2 hours each way, but you could all share driving/napping perhaps? Or maybe even from Malaga, less than 1.5 hours.
With such a great history, it seems a shame to rush through Jerez and Cadiz, but frankly I did not find Jerez as pleasant as Sevilla and Cordoba. That could have a lot to do with the fact that I was there on a Sunday afternoon and everything was dead (I completely admire that Sunday is family/leisure day, but it was depressing as a tourist).
I think you will greatly enjoy being in Ronda during festival time--I happened upon a small religious festival while I was there and it was really neat.
I wonder if you could visit Granada as a day trip from Ronda in order to reduce your number of hotel changes? It is about 2 hours each way, but you could all share driving/napping perhaps? Or maybe even from Malaga, less than 1.5 hours.
Jul 12th, 2013, 12:10 PM
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Yorkshire,
Thanks for your comments! Yes, we planned to go mid to late Sept or early October, but we learned that the harvest festival in Jerez is the 10th through the 15th, and then learned that the feria de Ronda is the 4th-8th, and decided we should be there for the festivals and hope that the weather cooperates (or that we can all survive the heat)!
Interesting suggestion re Granada as a day trip. Maybe could do:
D1:Ronda/Pueblo Blancos
D2: Ronda (tour, feria, corrida)
D3: Ronda a.m. (feria parade) - then to Jerez via Arcos; Cadiz late afternoon/evening
D4: Day trip to Granada: Alhambra, etc.
D5: Jerez: Equestrian show and bodegas
D6: Sevilla
D7: Sevilla
D8: Sevilla to Malaga
D9: Depart
Do you think that would work? Or alternatively, could leave Sevilla early a.m. on D8 for a day in Granada and end in Malaga rather than leaving Sevilla on D7 for one night in Granada? You said that Granada is about 2 hours from Ronda; do you know how long it would take from Jerez? From Sevilla?
Really wish we had more time, but alas, work does not permit it.
Thanks for your comments! Yes, we planned to go mid to late Sept or early October, but we learned that the harvest festival in Jerez is the 10th through the 15th, and then learned that the feria de Ronda is the 4th-8th, and decided we should be there for the festivals and hope that the weather cooperates (or that we can all survive the heat)!
Interesting suggestion re Granada as a day trip. Maybe could do:
D1:Ronda/Pueblo Blancos
D2: Ronda (tour, feria, corrida)
D3: Ronda a.m. (feria parade) - then to Jerez via Arcos; Cadiz late afternoon/evening
D4: Day trip to Granada: Alhambra, etc.
D5: Jerez: Equestrian show and bodegas
D6: Sevilla
D7: Sevilla
D8: Sevilla to Malaga
D9: Depart
Do you think that would work? Or alternatively, could leave Sevilla early a.m. on D8 for a day in Granada and end in Malaga rather than leaving Sevilla on D7 for one night in Granada? You said that Granada is about 2 hours from Ronda; do you know how long it would take from Jerez? From Sevilla?
Really wish we had more time, but alas, work does not permit it.
Jul 12th, 2013, 12:17 PM
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You will just want to plan accordingly--and with a baby it will be a lot easier because I imagine you already get up early and like naps!
I hope a fodorite named Cathy will chime in, she is more of an Andalucia expert than me.
Parsing out days is the hardest part of travel planning for me, and I don't mind an occasional one-nighter, but more time in fewer places is generally better. Everyone has their own travel style, but I know on my first day I never do much other than walk around the town.
I use google maps for travel time estimates (via michelin is good too). Good luck!
I hope a fodorite named Cathy will chime in, she is more of an Andalucia expert than me.
Parsing out days is the hardest part of travel planning for me, and I don't mind an occasional one-nighter, but more time in fewer places is generally better. Everyone has their own travel style, but I know on my first day I never do much other than walk around the town.
I use google maps for travel time estimates (via michelin is good too). Good luck!
Jul 12th, 2013, 12:23 PM
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Indeed! We are early risers by necessity. Naps are a must for baby, but hubby and I will likely try to walk around a bit during nap time while my mom watches baby or takes a siesta at the same time. Will anything be open between noon and 2 pm? For shopping/touring? I know most "lunches" are anywhere from 1-3 pm, but baby normally naps between noon and 2 pm. So, we might eat hearty breakfast and then have a nice lunch all together around 2 when baby wakes up. Just not sure what we'll encounter. I assume shops and sights are open late?
Jul 12th, 2013, 01:01 PM
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Oh my, you have quite a quandry here. Essentially 7 nights for Sevilla, Granada, Jerez, and Ronda with a final necessary night in Malaga....and with a 15 month old. I totally understand the desire to visit during the festivals in Ronda and Jerez. One of my passions is visiting towns during the festivals where you see much more than just the standard (but beautiful) tourist sites. You get a true glimpse into the culture which can be sometimes difficult and especially dear for your husband. I'm a little confused about your second itinerary idea - where would you be based overnight on day 3 and 4? If Jerez it's very long for a daytrip to Granada (3 hours driving each way) and I wouldn't recommend. You may also be a little ambitious about the trips en route (for example day 4 starts in Ronda then visits to Arcos on the way to Jerez and an evening visit to Cadiz. By the time you check into the hotel in Jerez you may end up just skipping Cadiz.
I'm sure others would disagree but given your husband's family is from Jerez and his dad was stationed in Rota I'd be tempted to skip Granada this trip. You will have to return again for a longer visit! Since your husband really wants to be in Ronda for the festival I think you probably need at least 2 days there especially after the flight. For the remaining 5 days I'd either 1) spend the entire 5 nights in Sevilla as a base and visit Jerez and even Cordoba (or Cadiz, Sanlucar, stop in Rota for nostalgia, etc...) or 2) spend 3 nights in Sevilla and 2 in Jerez. With option 2 my concern is that this would mean 4 overnight bases in 8 days (Ronda, Jerez, Sevilla, and Malaga). If your daughter is a good traveler this may be OK. It would be nice to be in Jerez during the festival. But with Option 1 you could get an apartment in Sevilla for 5 nights and it may be easier and more relaxing.
Lunch actually goes more from 2-4 with tapas starting around 1pm. Although in Sevilla there are many bars/restaurants serving food all day (not so much in Jerez or Ronda). Shops are normally open until 2pm, some close at 1:30. Shops are normally open until 9pm and sights 8 or 9 in general.
I'm sure others would disagree but given your husband's family is from Jerez and his dad was stationed in Rota I'd be tempted to skip Granada this trip. You will have to return again for a longer visit! Since your husband really wants to be in Ronda for the festival I think you probably need at least 2 days there especially after the flight. For the remaining 5 days I'd either 1) spend the entire 5 nights in Sevilla as a base and visit Jerez and even Cordoba (or Cadiz, Sanlucar, stop in Rota for nostalgia, etc...) or 2) spend 3 nights in Sevilla and 2 in Jerez. With option 2 my concern is that this would mean 4 overnight bases in 8 days (Ronda, Jerez, Sevilla, and Malaga). If your daughter is a good traveler this may be OK. It would be nice to be in Jerez during the festival. But with Option 1 you could get an apartment in Sevilla for 5 nights and it may be easier and more relaxing.
Lunch actually goes more from 2-4 with tapas starting around 1pm. Although in Sevilla there are many bars/restaurants serving food all day (not so much in Jerez or Ronda). Shops are normally open until 2pm, some close at 1:30. Shops are normally open until 9pm and sights 8 or 9 in general.
Jul 12th, 2013, 06:51 PM
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Be prepared for VERY hot weather - over 100 is not uncommon. Be sure hotel and car re fully AC and hotel has a good pool to relax in. Also be sure you carry plenty of water so all of you are always fully hydrated (it's very easy for a small child to become overheated and not get enough water - and you certainly don't want to have your cild develop heat exhaustion.
Jul 14th, 2013, 07:46 AM
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Thanks everyone for your comments/advice! Wish we didn't have to face such heat, but we really wanted to be there for the ferias. We will definitely stay well stocked with water!
Cathy, thanks for all your comments! The lunch time frame actually works quite nice. Hubby and I can do a little shopping/exploring while baby and grandma siesta from noon to 2. Then we can all enjoy a nice lunch together. To answer your question, yes, was thinking of staying in Jerez overnight days 3 and 4, but given the distance to Granada, I agree that it isn't really doable. I love the idea of being based in Sevilla in an apartment, but I hate to miss some of the festivities in Jerez for the feria. I was also thinking that it may be easier with baby's nap schedule to be local and not do hour + day trips with her. It just is a bit frustrating trying to plan this out to make it back for the harvest festival in Jerez but so that we get enough time in Sevilla. Do you think an equestrian show is an absolute MUST do? Or is visiting for a practice enough?
Also, I hate to miss Granada, but you may be right given the ferias, traveling with baby, etc. But i'm just afraid we will regret missing it. Perhaps we could do Granada/Alhambra our last day. Check into hotel in Malaga, and then head to Granada for the rest of the day? Would give baby car time to sleep. So could look like this:
Day 1: Ronda via scenic drive along coast to Marbella with late afternoon check-in
Day 2: Ronda for feria and corrida
Day 3: Ronda to Sevilla
Day 4: Sevilla
Day 5: Sevilla
Day 6: Jerez (see Cadiz in afternoon and evening); overnight Jerez
Day 7: Jerez (equestrian show and bodegas)
Day 8: transfer to Malaga for hotel check-in and drop off car; private driver to Granada for Alhambra for rest of day and scenic drive back to Malaga for night
Last day would be very long, but the rest of the trip would be pretty relaxed with this schedule. Thoughts?
Cathy, thanks for all your comments! The lunch time frame actually works quite nice. Hubby and I can do a little shopping/exploring while baby and grandma siesta from noon to 2. Then we can all enjoy a nice lunch together. To answer your question, yes, was thinking of staying in Jerez overnight days 3 and 4, but given the distance to Granada, I agree that it isn't really doable. I love the idea of being based in Sevilla in an apartment, but I hate to miss some of the festivities in Jerez for the feria. I was also thinking that it may be easier with baby's nap schedule to be local and not do hour + day trips with her. It just is a bit frustrating trying to plan this out to make it back for the harvest festival in Jerez but so that we get enough time in Sevilla. Do you think an equestrian show is an absolute MUST do? Or is visiting for a practice enough?
Also, I hate to miss Granada, but you may be right given the ferias, traveling with baby, etc. But i'm just afraid we will regret missing it. Perhaps we could do Granada/Alhambra our last day. Check into hotel in Malaga, and then head to Granada for the rest of the day? Would give baby car time to sleep. So could look like this:
Day 1: Ronda via scenic drive along coast to Marbella with late afternoon check-in
Day 2: Ronda for feria and corrida
Day 3: Ronda to Sevilla
Day 4: Sevilla
Day 5: Sevilla
Day 6: Jerez (see Cadiz in afternoon and evening); overnight Jerez
Day 7: Jerez (equestrian show and bodegas)
Day 8: transfer to Malaga for hotel check-in and drop off car; private driver to Granada for Alhambra for rest of day and scenic drive back to Malaga for night
Last day would be very long, but the rest of the trip would be pretty relaxed with this schedule. Thoughts?
Jul 14th, 2013, 08:43 AM
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Given your circumstances and the amount of days I think you have the best solution outlined above. Your day 8 will be extremely busy if you try to squeeze in Granada. Could you leave the infant with your mother in Malaga while you go to Granada? I'd consider just sightseeing in Malaga. It's a lovely city with plenty to keep you busy for a day and with the seaside location should be cooler than Granada. With 3 nights in Sevilla you should meet the minimum days for most apartment rentals. I've used sevilla5.com in the past for my rentals - they're reputable and professional.
Jul 14th, 2013, 08:51 AM
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Were I you, I would go to Granada straightaway. On to Cordoba and then Seville, Jerez, and Cadiz. Forget Ronda. You will not be able to get tickets to the corrida - put "goyesca" into the search box here and read all that is said. You only have 9 days in Spain. Don't waste any on Ronda.
Jul 15th, 2013, 07:10 AM
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Bedar,
I appreciate your thoughts, and that was the original plan, however, even if we cannot get tix to the goyesca, we can still get tix to the Friday novilladas so my husband can see a corrida while in Spain. In addition, we can still enjoy the festival atmosphere of the Feria with the parade of carriages, etc. So, while we would not ordinarily spend that much time in Ronda, I feel like it is a wonderful opportunity to experience a feria while in Spain. We are looking into corridas in Jerez due to the harvest festival, but so far we have been unable to find much info about the festival or if a corrida will take place while we are there. But we are looking into it.
Cathy, thanks again for your advice. We may just enjoy Malaga for the day or possibly leave mom and daughter there for the day and DH and I do the quick whirlwind tour of Granada and meet mom and DD back in Malaga for dinner.
Regarding Sevilla, I found that the Corral del Rey has serviced 2 bedroom apartments within walking distance to Cathedral, Alcazar, and next door to the Casa Pilatos. Has anyone ever stayed in these apartments? Or at the Corral del Rey? Looks lovely, but would love your opinions. Thanks again for all your help!
I appreciate your thoughts, and that was the original plan, however, even if we cannot get tix to the goyesca, we can still get tix to the Friday novilladas so my husband can see a corrida while in Spain. In addition, we can still enjoy the festival atmosphere of the Feria with the parade of carriages, etc. So, while we would not ordinarily spend that much time in Ronda, I feel like it is a wonderful opportunity to experience a feria while in Spain. We are looking into corridas in Jerez due to the harvest festival, but so far we have been unable to find much info about the festival or if a corrida will take place while we are there. But we are looking into it.
Cathy, thanks again for your advice. We may just enjoy Malaga for the day or possibly leave mom and daughter there for the day and DH and I do the quick whirlwind tour of Granada and meet mom and DD back in Malaga for dinner.
Regarding Sevilla, I found that the Corral del Rey has serviced 2 bedroom apartments within walking distance to Cathedral, Alcazar, and next door to the Casa Pilatos. Has anyone ever stayed in these apartments? Or at the Corral del Rey? Looks lovely, but would love your opinions. Thanks again for all your help!
Jul 15th, 2013, 11:15 AM
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Hi Alonsy,
Weather in Ronda in Sept may be hot or not. I go there every Fair. It is usually hot, but not as much as August. The Goyesca: it is impossible to get tickets, maybe re-sale but at outrageous prices. Try the novillada.
Ronda shall be full, so make sure your hotel has private parking.
The Concurso de Enganches (Carriage parade) is beautiful, ticket just 2 eur, but I usually see the carriages outside the ring. In the ring may be boring till the last ones (with four or five horses) get in, so dont hurry inside.
Arcos...if you are spending a couple of days in Ronda, you may well skip it, it is very similar in landscape/architecture, but narrow streets very difficult to negotiate; parking is another nightmare, and as usual, driving shall take longer than planned. I have a trip report on Pueblos Blancos with driving hints here somewhere, so clic on my name and look for it.
Have a nice stay!
Weather in Ronda in Sept may be hot or not. I go there every Fair. It is usually hot, but not as much as August. The Goyesca: it is impossible to get tickets, maybe re-sale but at outrageous prices. Try the novillada.
Ronda shall be full, so make sure your hotel has private parking.
The Concurso de Enganches (Carriage parade) is beautiful, ticket just 2 eur, but I usually see the carriages outside the ring. In the ring may be boring till the last ones (with four or five horses) get in, so dont hurry inside.
Arcos...if you are spending a couple of days in Ronda, you may well skip it, it is very similar in landscape/architecture, but narrow streets very difficult to negotiate; parking is another nightmare, and as usual, driving shall take longer than planned. I have a trip report on Pueblos Blancos with driving hints here somewhere, so clic on my name and look for it.
Have a nice stay!
Jul 16th, 2013, 06:06 AM
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Thanks so much Josele! Appreciate your tips! I will check out your trip report now. We are staying at the Finca de Guzmana which is just outside of Ronda. We will have a car, but probably won't want to drive in...hoping we'll be able to take a cab from the finca. Thanks again! We are getting very excited!
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