yorkshire

This was my first visit to Italy, but I did not want to spend a week in a city or overdo it, so I went with a triangular triad of places around Pisa, where I flew in/out. Here's a brief trip report--with apologies for any misspellings, as I am typing this up without my notes.

1) After negotiating the train from Pisa airport to Sarzana, we were picked up by our b&b agent for the drive to La Serra, 2 km above Lerici. He stopped at his sister's gelateria in San Terenzo, where we were treated to free gelato--one of the best I had all week (fior di latte...sublime).
On to the b&b Pimpanella, also known as as La TaTa, which I recommend for its setting in tiny quiet La Serra and Raphaella's fantastic cappuccino and breakfast pastries. It is bright and clean, with a nice sea view over Lerici. In low season, there are only buses during the day, but we were up for the 2km uphill/downhill walk along a lit path. (In summer, buses run at night). http://www.liguriaguide.com/b-and-b-pimpinella.html
We spent the next two days walking the trails to Tellaro and around Montemarcello. Some trails (unfortunately those to beaches) were closed due to landslides. We barely passed any other people while walking. Had simple fantastic lunch fare in Montemarcello and Tellaro. Notable restaurants: Il Pescatori; Bonte Nascoste; Enoteca Marina for apertivo.

2) To the mountains and breathtaking Barga, and wonderful Casa Fontana, which more than lived up to its rave reviews http://www.casa-fontana.com/. The food here equaled that of the coast, even the seafood. Notable mentions: L'Altana, L'Osteria (including a bit of opera!), Scacciguai. Luckily, we spent the day hiking to make up for all of the eating! This region is just gorgeous.

3) To Lucca, where we stayed in a spacious room just outside the city walls at http://www.luccainvilla.it/elisaindex.asp. Nice breakfast too, but unless you wake up very early I found it quite loud -- do not stay in room 3, just across from the desk.
Spent our time meandering through the streets and the city walls on bikes and foot. We even took bikes outside of town along the river pathway, which was also nice. Dinner was never as good in Lucca as in the previous towns, but simple things like sandwiches were still excellent, and my favorite gelato was probably had here---pinola.
Dined last night at Il Cuore, which was overpriced but delicious.

I left the last few days rather open for day trips, but we just enjoyed Lucca and then decided spur of the moment to go to La Cinque Terre. Mistake. No matter how gorgeous those views are, what I will remember is miserable crowds. I would only return to do the other trails, not the main one, and I would not want to stay in one of those towns.

A few basics
Learning a bit of Italian was definitely useful. House wine was excellent in the vast majority of cases. Use the ticket machines at stations when possible, or arrive early as there is often a line. The only confusion I ever had with train system was knowing when to transfer, as this was not indicated on tickets. I had looked at the train lines in advance of the trip, so that helped a lot.
Don't order all four courses unless you have a mammoth appetite. I usually wanted to try everything so over-ordered anyway, but I often could not finish it all. I thought the antipasti and primi would be small, but they were rarely small enough.

Thanks to everyone who commented on my previous questions when trip planning!

ekscrunchy

Oh, how I long to return to this area! Many thanks for your report.

GarfagnanaFood

I am so pleased you enjoyed our little slice of heaven. I am sorry that I didn't have the chance to suggest this before you went. I've only now discovered this site. Had I spotted your requests, I would have suggested you read the reviews of local restaurants on a local 'good food guide' I run for the Garfagnana. Be that as it may I would really appreciate it if you would share some comments on the eateries you sampled for others. The site is www.garfagnana-food.com

yorkshire

Just topping to offer to answer any specific questions about restaurants or walking trails--I have details if needed.

zeppole

Great to know about another charming Ligurian B&B with a sea view and low tourist impact.

I'm not a huge fan of Lucchese food and always try to eat all my meals at Buca di Sant'Antonio when there.

I often feel badly telling people to consider alternatives to le CInque Terre, because I think maybe my dislike the mobs of people there isn't everybody's reaction -- but it really can diminish the enjoyment of Liguria, I think, to be in that swarm, when there are so many lovely places so close by, with such wonderful tranquility.

Garfagnanafood,

thanks for that link!

yorkshire

You are my kind of traveler, Zeppole, so I am quite thankful posters like you and zoecat and ekscrunchy confirmed my choice of the Bay of La Spezia. It was perfect! I hope to visit your neck of the woods north of la CT in the future.
Thanks also for the David Downie book recommendation. Il Pescatori was the meal of the year.

regionetoscana

Thank you Yorkshire for your helpful tips and for staying in some of Tuscany's lesser-known areas!

Cinque Terre is so well known, but you're right that it can be so crowded. This is not a day trip but the Island of Elba truly outshines the Cinque Terre - great nature, hiking and biking trails with virtually nobody on them, and turquoise waters! Another good option is the Parco dell'uccellina in the Maremma area down the Tuscan coast. It's a protected area so you have to arrive early and you're bussed into the reserve. They only allow x number of people in, so again, not crowded, stunning views of wildlife and coast.

@zeppole - I like lucchese food! ;-)

yorkshire

Elba was a strong contender for this visit, as we love nature and hiking, but I had trouble working it into an itinerary that did not involve too much travel, and ultimately this itinerary won out. There will be another visit in my future to Italy ... of course! I read about the Maremma as well--I am always interested in going to less known areas in my perception--even if they are actually quite well known.

zoecat

Yorkshire,

Glad to hear your trip turned out so well and thank you for the report!

I would love to hear details about any of the hikes you felt were special. Step by step is my favorite way to travel! I am planning to return to the area, so any and all info is appreciated.

yorkshire

I was not overly ambitious with the hikes. Just walking from Lerici to Tellaro was nice, through olive fields, with peeks of the sea. (You can stop in Fiascherino for a nice beach, but we never found the time.) Tellaro is beautiful--you'll want time to walk all of its alleys.

At Montemarcello, there are several paths. Unfortunately the two I wanted to do (down to the sea--Punta Bianca and Punto Covo) were closed due to landslides, so did a loop of the town and then set off back toward Tellaro from the opposite direction we had done the day before.
Montemarcello lacks the stunning views of towns that la Cinque Terre has, but it has some equivalent coastal views, much more shade, and far fewer people. Better beaches too--though I could not get to them.
At the park headquarters in Montemarcello, many trails begin. The one back toward Tellaro stops on the main road for a short stretch, then you get back on it. {Before you do though, you must skip the first trail you come to toward Tellaro--it is an advanced-level hike on rock outcrops. The sign warning you of this is way back where the path begins--and we ignored it (we saw families starting on it). However, when we got to this stretch we know very quickly we needed to turn around after seeing a closed trail sign and seeing what we would be walking on. We returned to the road and made our way to the normal trailhead.}
(If you go to the other side of Montemarcello, toward Bocca di Magra, you can see the mts of Carrarra in the distance).

If you make it to Barga, there are many hiking trails in the vicinity, but if you are just looking for easy, convenient hikes from the town, you can walk to Sommocolonia and Tiglio--these are well marked trails. If you are going to be in the area longer, I saw maps that indicated much longer trails through the mts--there are refugios if you do through hikes.

I hope to hear about your walking adventures (and continue my own in this area one day)!

zoecat

Thank you! I have visited Tellaro and the area and thought it was lovely and so peaceful.

Some of my favorite walks have been in the Val d'Orcia area of southern Tuscany. Although the area is not off-the-beaten-path (though I've never found it crowded), the walking is a way to find yourself alone with the beautiful landscape. I enjoy walking from town to town and then back (Pienza/Monticchiello, Montepulciano/Montefollonico), stopping for lunch (with an ice cold beer or two) before turning around for the return. The best moments have been when I've stopped along the way to rest, and taken the time to really look at the details of what I'm seeing and experiencing. It's a beautiful area and the hikes/walks are very rewarding.

I could spend the rest of my life taking long walks in Italy. But for now, it's back to reality!

Keren

BM