I want to thank all the Fodorites whose postings helped me plan this trip -- and special thanks to FrenchMystiqueTours and kerouac, who are both so inspiring.
We are Paris veterans who have visited here many times, but this trip we stayed for a month, allowing us to enjoy Paris at a slower pace. With plenty of time, we sought out lesser known musuems and spent a lot of time wandering.
Rather than repeat all the details of the trip here, we have a blog (with pics):
http://supsictravelsfrance.blogspot.com
The blog is organized by topic (see the archive list), so depending on your interest, you could go directly to World War I history, the Music Museum, the Wine Salon, our day trip to Champagne -- or Chocolate! Chocolate became our new obsession. I have always liked it, but the dark chocolates of Paris (like my favorite Jean-Paul Hevin) are beyond anything I had ever tasted.
We were very lucky regarding our apartment. I had some concerns that Montmartre might be a bit far from the action, but the location was perfect. We had great connections to all of the city, and it was a pleasure to return to the authentic village-like atmosphere of our "home." When we visited other parts of Paris, like the areas around the Louvre or the Eiffel, we were actually surprised by all the English we heard spoken around us. In our neighborhood we almost always heard French.
We rented with Frenchy Rentals and could not have been happier with that choice.
The apartment was beautifully laid out, well-equipped, and incredibly spacious (especially by European standards!). One of the things that I most appreciated was that the apartment was well-stocked with basics like paper towels, trash bags, toilet paper, detergents for dish and clothes washing, basic spices, tea and coffee etc. It was such a relief to be able to settle right in without having to immediately run out to the store to stock up (which is what typically happens).
My husband had been concerned that we would not have enough to keep us busy for a month, but I don't think I could ever run out of things to do in Paris. Plus, the best part is just being there. Every day as I started down the curved wooden staircase of our apartment building, my heart would beat faster just knowing that all of Paris was right outside the door!
An Apartment in Montmartre (for a month)
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A delightful read. Thanks!
The peek I just took looked fantastic - will definitely read more later. Thanks for posting!
We love basing ourselves in Montmartre, and also find we hear much less English there, in general. We've also rented from Frenchy Rentals (the Constance apartment) and had an excellent experience. Paula was just wonderful.
I hope your foot is better - but what a lovely cane!
Thanks for the responses, Marija and YankyGal!
YankyGal -- I agree that Paula is a gem! We stayed in Fontaine Modern. My foot is improving, thanks! My husband will be so thrilled that you liked my "canne!"
Ann, this is great! I'm staying in Montmartre in two weeks and you've given me some fun things to think about doing. Thank you.
Can't even read the rest of the report before I have to say that those Louboutins are rocking!
OK, the apartment looks great, can't believe the elevator and am headed back to read more, but the SHOES!!
A superb report and I adore the little mendiants and always bring some home. Great work at The Ritz, it look terrific!
Thanks so much for reading our blog! It's so much fun for us when people enjoy it.
denisea -- I know what you mean about the Louboutins. I could hardly tear myself away from the display window!
Could you give us a link to your apartment?
I really loved your report Ann. Cooking class at the Ritz - how great was that! And the pictures of the children at the Shoah Memorial...
I like your chic hairdo. You look very Parisienne.
Sure, nukesafe -- here is the link to our Fontaine Modern apartment available thru Frenchy Rentals: http://frenchyrentals.com/fontaine2.html
Oh Micheline, thank you so much for the comment about my hair. Saying I looked Parisienne is the highest praise I can think of!!!
A great report. Thanks for such a professional blog. I envy you your whole month in Paris.
Never mind the Louboutin shoes, give me that whole photo of chocolates!!
taconictraveler -- You know, I can't even look at those chocolate pictures because every time I do, I have to dip into our stash for a chocolate or two!!
Magster: it's a disease, for sure. I know exactly what you mean. I bought a half dozen Vosges bars a couple of weeks ago to give as gifts, and I've already "stolen" one and a half of them! I'll have to hide them deeper in the closet!!
Your apartment in Montmartre looks very nice. Were you on a hilly street? I think I'd really like to stay there next trip, but don't want too many hilly walks.
Ann, your blog is fabulous and the pictures are terrific. Thanks for sharing! We are going to Paris next week and planned to do Paris Walks' Marais tour. Have you done that? Approximately, how many people were on your chocolate tour?
taconictraveler -- Loved your comments about "the choco disease!"
Our apartment was on the border between the 9th and the 18th, just below The Moulin Rouge. It was a bit of a steep walk to walk north (but worth it for the shopping streets of rue Lepic and rue des Martyrs). However, we were not in the extremely steep hilly areas that you find closer to Sacre Coeur.
We had a daily routine that minimized the hill walking (and worked even after I had the foot injury). We avoided walking uphill by starting our day from the St. Georges Metro (10 min. south -- down the slight hill). And ended our day at the Pigalle Metro stop (north of us) allowing us to walk downhill once again (about 10 min.) to the apartment. Worked out great -- and the walk at the end of the day was a perfect time to pick up any food, wine etc. that we needed.
Centralparkgirl -- So glad you enjoyed the blog! I did one of the Marais Walks (not sure which one, there are two) and it was great. Both Marais walks are very popular so I think you would be happy with either one. I have never been disappointed with any of the Paris Walks and always do at least one of them when I am in Paris.
The Chocolate Walk is different from most of the walks because you have to reserve ahead (call or email & pay a deposit). They do limit the number of people on this walk. In fact, the day we did the Chocolate Walk, they added a second tour because they had so many requests. My husband (who is a numbers man) said there were about 25 people on our walk.
The walks typically last 2 hours, but don't schedule yourself too tightly because the walks may go over the 2 hrs. (especially the Chocolate Walk because everybody wants to buy!)
Just found this and loving your photos and captions. More to go. Someone else mentioned the love locks in a recent TR--they may have started in Verona.
Magster: Thanks for your comments. We would have to manage the walking to be as much downhill as possible. Looks like it can be done.
But I would even walk uphill for dark Paris chocolate!
Love locks are in Cinque Terre too!
When did you first see the the locks in the CT, Centralparkgirl???
TDudette, I was there last May and saw them while walking between Riomaggiore and Manarola. That's the only place I've ever seen them.
Magster: Enjoyed your blog very much. I too will be celebrating my 60th in Paris, but only for 4 nights then on to Barcelona for 4 nights. Maybe in a few years or so when I retire we will be able to do a month. That is our goal.
I would be interested to hear more about your champagne tour. We are planning to do a self guided tour in November. We would be taking the train straight to Reims. Do you have a link to your tour?
Your apartment looks really lovely. I also enjoy visiting the small museums of Paris. I will have to see about going to the musuem of montmartre and george sand.
Great report.
opaldog -- So glad you enjoyed the blog -- and hope that you get your month in Paris!
We did the full day Champagne Tour from Paris via minibus. Since this was our first visit to the area, we decided to do a guided tour -- plus we wanted to visit a small producer.
Here is the link to our tour:
http://www.parischampagnetour.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=12&Itemid=41
I believe our guide, Trong, also does personalized tours if you wanted him to make arrangements once you arrived in Reims. But a self-guided tour should be pretty straight forward -- you will just need to contact the champagne producers ahead of time.