Amazing Two Week Family Trip to Italy!

How nice to hear that your family was able to jump right in! Waiting for more . . .

This is great, keep going and don't leave out anything. We are taking our kids there next June.

KimiG - Excellent, looking forward to more.

Sandy

Looking forward to more!

What did you think of the Cesari? We had reservations there last July, but they suddenly closed for renovation so we had to make last minute alternate plans.

Welcome home. Sounds like an amazing trip already! Looking forward to more.

What a wonderful adventure for your sons and what wonderful family memories for all of you!

Great start and I am looking forward to more.

Our boys were 13 and 15 the first trip to europe (munich and rome). I remember the awe in my younger son's voice when we got to the colosseum and he asked 'can i touch it??'

glad you had a great time with your family. We are leaving in a couple of weeks and would love to hear more

A great report! I cannot wait to read more about your adventures. The details & web sites are a help. We are traveling to Italy at Christmas 2007.

So far go good. Looking forward for more.

More! More!

I can feel your excitement and emotion. Can't wait to read the rest!

More please.

More more more!!! Cant wait!

Thank you so much for your encouragement! It is a joy sharing our trip with you!

Day Two – June 1

I woke up an hour or so before my three boys (DH included) and Marina made me two cappuccinos to begin the day in the breakfast room. The Cesari is very nice. In Rome, I wanted to have my children near me and not in their own room across the hall. The Cesari has a “quad room” which is quite spacious. The staff could not be friendlier and are very helpful. The accommodations are not luxurious, but they are very comfortable and clean. The double-paned windows block out all the street sounds and the air conditioning was fantastic. We were literally only ever in our room to sleep. The breakfast room was full of excited tourists (just like us) and the breakfast was good. Once again, the staff was great – they were gracious, patient and helped make our stay in Rome very memorable!

When the boys woke up, we had a relaxing breakfast and then walked around our little area of Rome – it already feels like our Rome! The winding streets around the Cesari already feel so familiar. We rented the audio guide at the Pantheon – what an amazing structure. DH was impressed with the symmetry, I couldn’t believe such a building could be created in AD 120, the boys liked how the sunlight shining through the oculus moved around the building. We walked around the corner to Giolitti’s for a mid-day gelato (we will have to waddle back to the States), we walked past our Trevi Fountain to the Spanish Steps. Ottimo!

About a week ago, we realized that some friends of ours from the West Coast (we live in the South) were going to be in Rome with their boys while we were scheduled to be in Rome. I had previously arranged a Vatican tour through Vatican Tours Inc. (www.vaticantoursinc.com). They graciously allowed me to cancel the tour about a week in advance with no penalty. Instead, we joined our friends on their tour and paid for our half. I do not know what company they contracted, but we all enjoyed this day together. It is hard to describe the Vatican – so vast, so full of priceless objects. We were moving every second of the three hour tour and I felt guilty for just breezing down hallways past gorgeous paintings and sculptures on the way to the Sistine Chapel. I must say that this was more of a tour experience than a religious experience … I’m sure because there simply was not time to linger. We stayed the longest in the Sistine Chapel – wow. It’s an odd feeling to come eye to eye with something you have read about and seen pictures of your entire life – just breathtaking. I don’t think I realized how large St. Peter’s was until we were standing in it. As we walked into St. Peter’s to the right, I became teary eyed viewing La Pietra by Michelangelo. This was not a piece of art I had studied in my limited Art History class in college and did not realize it was created by Michelangelo until the guide pointed to his signature – to see Mary holding her dead son was very moving. It is humbling to stand where thousands and thousands of people have stood earnestly praying and seeking God for centuries. I am convinced that Michelangelo and Bernini must have never slept a day in their creative lives!

Following the tour, our boys hung out with their friends (they have a grandmother also traveling with them) and we were able to have an adult dinner. We dined at the very gorgeous and decadent Mirabelle (www.mirabelle.it). We sat on the terrace with the most amazing sunset view of Rome. It was a very romantic night full of great food, wine and friends!

Can you get close to La Pieta now? When we were there last year, they were working on the ceiling or roof of that part of the building, so we could only see her from a distance.

Last year, we visted Italy with kids age 15, 13 and 10....our deal with them was: gelato every day. We missed it one day and the next day had gelato twice.

Hi Kim, now I have grandchildren, ....when our four children were young we took them almost everyyear to Europe., may be that is why I understand your feeling so very well. I loved your travelodge, I love that used the words magical, fantastic, amazing....Let me tell you looking into the future how much they will profit from this experience. My children always tell me that, they might have thought at the time, that it was one museum too much, but now they are so greatful and helped them both through the University and now in their jobs,also in the way they learnt how to live.
Lovely report, I know you must be proud, oh...so proud of your boys,! In this time and age that children and parents alike find so hard to set priorities .... your story fill me with optimism.!

Kimi,
Thanks so much for the report- I cannot wait to hear more! We leave in one week for Paris, Switzerland and Italy for 16 days with our two girls - 10 and 13 - so your report is very timely!

Great report so far!
Like missypie we're also planning on one gelato a day on our trip to Italy. It's a deal we're looking forward to as much as the kids!

Day Three – June 2

As I awake this morning, I am still basking in the glow of last night. What a magical evening in Roma. This morning we had scheduled a guide to meet us at our hotel, travel to the coliseum and Roman forum and for the guide to spend three hours with us. I made most of our arrangements myself, but since a friend/colleague of mine is a travel agent, I asked her opinion of our travel itinerary and in return asked her to book a few parts of our trip for us. This is one of the parts I turned over to her. She booked with a company she had used over and over again, however we encountered our first glitch of the trip. The tour guide showed up, but the coliseum (and most of the town for that matter) was closed due to a military national holiday. We let the tour guide go, I e-mailed my friend in the States and by the time we returned, I had confirmation of our refund by the company (however we also did not have the guided tour we wanted to have – they could not reschedule). We were a bit disappointed, but when faced with these challenges you can either sit in your room and sulk or realize how blessed you are to be in Italy and make the best of it – we chose the later.

So, if there is a parade going on in town, we decide to get in the middle of it. Once again, we venture down the Via del Corso, around the left side of the Monumento a Vittorio Emanelle II and now we are definitely in the middle of things, cheering with the crowd as the veterans and various branches of the military come by and then cheering enthusiastically with the fly over of the Italian military jets releasing smoke in the colors of the Italian flag – the finale. At this point, the crowd begins to break up and we continue our walk past the coliseum. Amazing – just walking past the coliseum! Our friends are staying near the coliseum at the Galdiatori Hotel (www.hotelgladiatori.it) – we join them on the terrace overlooking the coliseum and play cards as we wait for everything to reopen. How extraordinary to play cards with friends and family while also looking at the coliseum!

Finally the city began to reopen and we walked across the street, purchased our tickets, took photos with the gladiators and purchased a tour on the spot! Once again, sort of surreal to be walking in and around the coliseum – to marvel at their construction and cruelty in killing so many people there. Amazing that most of it still stands today! Our oldest son studied the History of Civilization this past year in 6th grade – we realize on this day that we could have rented him out all across Italy because the Roman Empire, the Caesars (good, bad and the evil), the Etruscans and the Renaissance are all so fresh on his memory. He recalls all the dates, all the names, all the influences – we didn’t need a guide, we just needed our 12 year old! He feels very empowered and important – I love his instant recall and ability to inform the rest of our party! The 8 year old declares himself to be Lunatic Maximus and we must refer to him as Lunatic Maximus the rest of the day – I love his mischievous spirit!

After touring the coliseum our two families are starving. We walk across the street and eat pizza and pasta at Gran Caffe Rossi Martini – our food was very good, the staff was accommodating and Luigi (our server) was full of personality! We walk back up to the terrace of the Gladiatori and share some prosecco and wine and play cards watching the sunset on the coliseum. I never want to forget this day and the roar of the lions and the clash of the gladiators that still echo through the peaceful night!

why did you start another thread? you posted on june 20 and got responses.. click on your name and you will find your posts no matter how long ago you wrote them.

lincasanova: I did not mean to post twice. It was a computer error on my part. Sorry!

missypie: We did not get close to La Pietra, but it was still breathtaking!

What a lovely report---grazie !

You know, I think I've posted three times about the June 2 holiday, and the thread never attracts any attention. When I asked about June 2 before our trip, folks here said it it was a no big deal holiday. As you found out, it was a very big deal, at least in Rome. That was our last full day in Rome last year and we had set aside the afternoon for shopping...no such luck, the stores were closed.

Wonderful report! We recently returned from our second trip with our 12yo son, to France, and he's already said that he would like to go to Rome for his next trip; I can envision it being just the way you describe it!

I'm loving your report, especially since it is only a few months till my own family trip to Italy!! You have a wonderful way with words and I can already imagine us there.

Do you remember how much the picture with the gladiators was? We'd love to do this, but I read somewhere that they are pretty aggressive with demanding a lot of money for the privilege.

i´m glad i found this thread again as i was shocked no one had answered your first one .. you have a wonderful writing style and one can "feel" the spirit of the family all the way through.

KimiG, Your report is awesome! I kept checking back today for the latest update. Will keep checking for more.

Kimi, I love your enthusiasm. That is the way I felt about Rome, too. Thank you for sharing and I'm waiting (impatiently) for more.

KimiG, I've got to add my compliments to those already piling up. Not only is your writing filled with the joy of every experience, but it is obvious that you've raised two youngsters who are also enthusiastic, appreciative European travelers.

I wonder if you can tell us how you've accomplished that? I'm a teacher, and I know many young people who would be oblivious to the adventure, more interested in I Pods, Game Boys, and Big Macs. Help. I've a niece and nephew I'd love to influence. Bravo to you and yours. J.

jmw44, don't be so concerned - A child who likes Gameboys, iPods and McDonalds can also love travel...I know from experience.

The iPods come in very handy for long flights and airport layovers. (Sure, the first hour of a 6 hour layover at Gatwick can be interesting....after that, bring out the iPod.) I let the kids bring their gameboys when I know I'm going to be ducking into lots of churches....they look around for as long as they are interested, but then they sit on a bench with their game and it buys ME a few more minutes to enjoy the church.

As for McDonalds-at the end of our spring break in Barcelona, the kids commented that this had been the first trip where we hadn't gone to McDonalds. Sometimes McDonald's serves a purpose...for example, when we made a day trip from Florence to Pisa and returned hungry at about 3 pm, it was perfect to drop into the McDonalds by the train station for a quick bite. It was the place that was open. The day we were at the Spanish Steps in Rome, it was pouring rain and we were cold. We wanted to drop into a charming little place to warm up and eat a snack, but all the charming little places were packed, so we went to the huge, multi-level McDonalds. (I admit that I loved having a coke with ice there!)

My kids are terrific travelers, even if they do like gameboys, ipods and McDonalds.

We stopped at that McDonalds by the Spanish Steps to use the restroom. (They come in handy for that.) Anyway, we were so impressed that we hardly recognized it for a McD. Then the Travel Channel had a program about the 10 most unusual McDs and that one was #1!

P.S. I only watched the program to see if it was included.

bookmarking

Day Four – June 3

Today was a rainy, dreary day and unseasonably cool. I actually stopped in the little gift shop across from the Cesari and purchase ITALIA hoodies for the boys. DH was the wise one and packed a light weight jacket, which of course I wore all day (smile). We joined our friends again at the Gladiatori Hotel and our families played cards for a bit while we waited for the rain to subside. It drizzled for the rest of the day, but we all grabbed an umbrella and headed for the Roman Forum and Palantine Hill. Once again, Lunatic Maximus and the History of Civilization Scholar have a great time and enjoy informing us about all the details about ancient Rome (for those who will be traveling with younger children – Lunatic just finished 2nd grade – there are several Magic Tree House books that cover Roman history, Pompeii, etc.). Our 6th grade scholar was very impassioned about the glory of the Roman Empire and that it would still be ruling the world today had it’s leaders not become so corrupt, arrogant and deceptive. Walking through the Forum you can feel what must have been an amazing place.

Our friends have not been to the Pantheon, Trevi Fountain area so we walk (or waddle like ducks in the rain) down the Via del Corso to share our part of Rome with our friends. The rain clears for a bit, so we enjoy a light lunch in the Piazza in from of the Pantheon at Di Rienzo. After lunch we go our separate ways, DH and I go back to the Piazza Navona and we purchase two paintings that I know we will always treasure. I can’t wait to have them framed and to walk past them every day in our home!

The boys joined their friends for one last evening in Rome and the adults went out for a last night out. Unfortunately, we had a very bad and expensive meal. I think I have purposely blocked the name of the restaurant from my mind and I did not keep a card. It was on the rooftop of a four star hotel in the Pantheon area. It was honestly the only bad meal we had during our entire trip to Italy. Following dinner, we pick up Lunatic and the Scholar and walk one last time to Giolitti’s – they already have their favorite flavors – Fragola and Fruita d’Bosco (sp?) and we walk to the Trevi Fountain to breath it in. We each throw in a coin over our left shoulder, DH and I sit arm and arm watching the fountain, watching the young and not so young lovers around the fountain, the boys are playing and we are in Rome. We feel a part of the Eternal City. We linger for a half an hour or so and then slowly stroll back to the Cesari.

Tomorrow, we leave for Positano …..

I mean this in a nice way - honestly - but am I the only one who thinks that KimiG's children are aliens or that she is on some pretty serious 'mother's little helpers'? I've traveled with children and these two sound too good to be true!

Thank you for your kind words. It is truly a joy to relive the trip as I am typing this trip report.

Also, thank you for your kind words regarding Lunatic and the Scholar. I am incredibly proud of them, but I assure you they are just like all little boys. We traveled with their Ninento DS games - they played them on the flight and during long car and train rides. They were allowed to take two games each. They also took one book each as they have assigned summer reading.

kireland: I assure you my children are not aliens, though sometimes I think they are when I walk in their rooms.

However, I must say that they realized that it was a "big deal" to be going on a trip like this. We enjoyed as a family watching movies, History Channel and Travel Channel specials about Italy. It was an added bonus that the Scholar studied the History of Civilization this past year. He's a great student and two days before we left he had an exam covering Ancient Rome, etc.

I hope there is more! Keep it coming.

POSITANO - Day Five – June 4

The adventure continued today as we said arrivederci to Roma, the folks from Rome Shuttle Limousine service pick us up a the Cesari and deliver us to the airport to pick up our rental car. Unfortunately, he does not let us out conveniently near the rental car agencies and we walk around the airport for almost an hour pulling all of our earthly possessions (or at least, those in Italy). Finally, we pick up the Fiat van from Europecar and begin our trip south. Before leaving on this adventure a good friend of DH’s told him that we could use his GPS, that he would FedEx the GPS from Milan to our hotel in Rome. Upon our arrival at the Cesari, we had a message that his friend was unable to ship the GPS, so we’re on our own. I do not overly excel on this first day as the navigator, but fortunately we kept a sense of humor about the whole ordeal. We had intended on going to Pompeii on our way to Positano, but somehow we get lost, lose a little time on the clock and decide to bypass Pompeii (it’s a good excuse to come back, right?). Finally, we reach the Mediterranean and the twisty roads along the coast – bellissima! Truly, as we rounded a corner and had our first glimpse of Positano, we all gasped (even Lunatic and the Scholar looked up from their Nintendos in the back seat –smile). DH is doing a great job navigating the scooters and the buses - I now refer to him as Mario Andretti!

Upon our arrival at the Albergo Miramare (www.mirarmarepositano.it), the friendly staff, our spacious two room suite and gorgeous view brings smiles to everyone’s faces! Mario looks at me and is very pleased with our accommodations, but we all instantly wish that we are here for more than three nights. This is truly paradise! I cannot get enough of the view and really have no desire to leave the terrace. The four of us play a game of cards on the terrace and every time Mario shuffles, I get up to fully take in the view and to watch the light dance on the sea. Has anyone else ever noticed that the light changes every few minutes and everything looks differently? Amazing!

Rosita makes reservations for us at Donna Rosa and we take the taxi service up to Monteperso (the taxi service is a bit more expensive than I anticipate). The meal is fantastic. The ravioli is the best I’ve ever eaten. Mario enjoys the Sea Bass, the boys have spaghetti again. Once back down in Positano, we stroll down the street to the little gelato/sandwich/tobacco/wine store – Bar Mulino Verde – everyone in town seems to be in this little establishment (we would call it a general store in the South). The boys pick out their daily gelato and begin talking with some folks from Baltimore about our trip. A gentleman from Germany watches me as I write notes in my journal and we begin talking about our respective vacations. Everyone in the Mulino Verde is on holiday and it's a festive environment – complete strangers all sharing the details of their day – the place is hopping! We walk back to the Miramare and sit on the terrace past midnight. In fact, we watch the moon rise in the sky – spectacular!

Still following with interest. KimiG, I think Magic Tree House can be credited with creating interest in times and places. Which ones are the favorites?

Missypie, I stand corrected.

kireland

Looking forward to more, J.

DAY SIX – June 5

As I mentioned at the day of Day Five, last night my boys were just beautiful as they entertained their international audience with stories of their trip. Then we climbed back up the town to our little villa and finished our card game on the terrace. I will never forget watching the moon climb in the sky – from almost the sunset level on the horizon to straight up in the sky – these are the moments we live for! We all go to sleep feeling peaceful and tranquil.

We are a bit worn out from the hustle and bustle of Rome and are glad to rest. I don’t set my alarm because I’m always up an hour or so before everyone else. The sights and sounds of this little town and this little inn blend to create a recipe of hypnotic relaxation! I am excited to enjoy breakfast on our terrace the next morning and lazily walk down the town for our 10:45 a.m. reservation with the Gennaro E. Salvatore boat, however the morning doesn’t turn out quite like that. The master bedroom of the family flat at the Miramare is completely dark with no windows and great air conditioning – I pick up my watch to see if it is 5:30 or 6:00 a.m. – to my surprise the “glow in the dark” hands on my watch say 10:15 a.m. I hop up to look at my watch in the light – yes, it is 10:15 a.m. I wake DH/Mario (he’s been reading my trip report each day as I finish and he’s not sure he wants to be referred to as Mario), then I walk into the boys room, lay out their swimsuits and tell them we are walking down the steps in 15 minutes – if they want breakfast, it’s their responsibility. To my amazement, they get going and actually get to the breakfast room for breakfast. It’s a Chinese fire drill, but we make it to the little boat cabana at 10:45 a.m. Whew – we made it – take a deep breath!

So many people have mentioned their great day of boating with this company (www.gennarolesalvatore.it) and I am thrilled to add to the accolades! We quickly met our captain, Peter, and our fellow mates for the day from the UK, Australia and Tasmania. We booked the all day Amalfi coast tour and it was truly a day to remember! There were probably about 12 people on the boat (including our family of four) and everyone was ready for a great time! We spent the day in swimsuits and sunscreen on a gorgeous 33 foot boat closely touring the Amalfi coast line. Peter stopped several times for a swim including two caves – the boys loved this! We oohed and aahed around each point in the coast. DH/Mario asked our family what one word describes this place and almost in unison, we all said majestic! We stopped for lunch and walked ashore to a little outdoor dining room by the sea for the most amazing meal ever! We met Gennaroe and he told us that he caught the Congo this morning that we’ll be served. There’s no menu, but one course after another and another appears. The most spectacular antipasti of tomato and mozzarella, zucchini, peppers, fresh beans, eggplant – then pasta – then several courses of fish – fresh fruit – espresso – and our first lemoncello (now I know what all the fuss is about). The boys get full and play on the rocks beside the sea. I’m afraid the boat might sink because we all weigh significantly more when we got on board! This is one of the best days of my entire life!

We walk back up the steps to our little villa and sit on the terrace for a card game. I can only make it about half way through the game and I stretch out in a deck chair for a nap. Around 8:00 p.m. we begin our stroll down into town, in and out of little shops, stopping to admire the view every few steps and then admiring the gorgeous flowers and their aroma every few steps. DH/Mario and I are not hungry, but we stop to feed our growing boys across from the Mulino Verde for a pizza – we sit outside in a courtyard that looks like it’s out of an Italian movie set – lemon trees, beautiful ceramic tables, it’s a gorgeous night and the boys enjoy their pizza. We walk back to the Mulino Verde for gelato and run into the same German couple that we saw last night – we all recap our day. This is yet another magical day in Italy!

kimiG, you know how to travel!! I am so happy that your family had such a wonderful trip. I love reading your report. Thank you so much for sharing.

Enjoying your trip reports and waiting for the next chapter!

"This is one of the best days of my entire life!"

Seems like you felt that way each day of your amazing trip. Italy will do that to you!

I clicked on the web site I provided for the boat tour, but I must have it wrong. This is the link I saved to my "favorite files": http://www.gennaroesalvatore.it/

Kim, I'm also enjoying your report, keep going!

Kimi, I am loving your report. We just came back from almost the same trip (without the kids, though, as the 25 and 28 year old no longer want to travel with the parents!) !! I have given my family specific instructions that when I kick the bucket, I want my ashes scattered over Positano! Eternity in paradise.....

DAY Seven – June 6

We all rested well after finishing our card game on the terrace last night. I awake first and call for breakfast to be delivered to our terrace. I gently wake up DH/Mario, Lunatic and the Scholar and we enjoy a lazy breakfast of hot chocolate, cappuccino, rolls and Nutella, fresh fruit, juice and cereal. There is so much that I would love to see in this area – I would love to ferry over to Capri or to drive to Ravello, but since this is our last day in Positano we decide to soak in Positano. Lunatic has described this little jewel of a town as paradise – I couldn’t agree more!

So, once again we put on our swimsuits and sunscreen and head to the beach. I can’t remember the name of the beach, but we follow the path along the right side of the town – about a ten minute walk to the beach. (One small negative – there was tar all over the beach – you couldn’t see it to the naked eye, but it was right below the surface of the rocks and pebbles and it got all over the boys – they may have it cleaned up before you visit, but you might want to ask your hotel about it.) My boys meet two older boys, ages 13 and 16 from Washington state - the older boys have been here a few days and have been jumping from the nearby cliffs. My boys convince DH/Mario to rent a kayak and they all paddle like a little armada to the cliffs. I can’t see the boys as they round the corner of the cliffs and in retrospect, I am glad. However, I am also glad that my husband witnessed the bravado of our sons. Slightly out of my view, Lunatic and the Scholar bailed out of the kayak and swam for the cliffs. The four boys ascend about 30 feet and made their first jump. Triumphant, they returned for a second jump from the same spot. With encouragement from the two older boys, they changed location and jumped from ten feet higher. With Dad cheering them on, they jumped twice from that height. After exploring a nearby cave, they retuned to the cliff for their final jump. This time, DH/Mario expressed words of caution for all four boys – they were cold and shaking from the temperature and the nerves. With courage and the greater fear of failure, they jumped about 50 feet to the cold Mediterranean below. DH/Mario held his breath as they plunged feet first and bobbed up quickly in excitement. They returned to the beach feeling very proud of themselves and high-fiving each other!

We walked back to Positano and up the stairs to get cleaned up. DH/Mario and I decide to walk around to pick up a few souvenirs. The boys ask to remain on the terrace to play their game boys. I forgot something in the room and go back up the stairs to find the Scholar coming out of the breakfast room with a sheepish grin on his face and his pockets stuffed with Nutella packets (he is adorable). Near the water, I purchase a beautiful pair of sandals that Giovanni fit on me (these are to replace the ones I had to throw away because of the tar) and then we purchase a gorgeous painting that will always remind us of these magical days in Positano. We climb back up the stairs to check on the boys – they are watching the TV show Flipper in Italian. So, DH/Mario and I decide to walk up to the Poseidon for a bellini and to enjoy the view. They tell me that white peaches are not in season, but they recommend a rosita – champagne with fresh strawberries. We enjoy these few romantic moments, staring at the sunset and at each other. After fifteen years of marriage, we are so blessed and crazy about each other. The view and the sunset that seems to linger for hours are amazing! We walk back down to the Miramare and get the boys. We walk to the base of the town to eat at L’Incanto – we enjoy pasta, pizza and our last lemoncello.

Following dinner, we dance on the beach to the sounds of a live Turkish band. We are all so happy – dancing arm and arm – kind of square dance style. I love watching the light in my children’s eyes. We laughed all the way up the cobblestone streets to our favorite gelateria. Once again, the Mulino Verde was hopping – the TV was on and the local crowd was gathered around cheering Italy on to a soccer victory – we joined in- cheered when they cheered – groaned with they groaned – fortunately Italy won! We walk arm in arm back to the Miramare and once again play cards on the terrace. No one wants this day to end. We lingered, trying to memorize the view forever and to capture this enchanting feeling. With regret, tomorrow we leave Positano.

KimiG, I want to be you!! Such a loving happy family! I am enjoying this trip right along with you now.

I love the cliff jumping episode.

KimiG -
I do love your trip and your descriptions. It's so wonderful to travel with interesting & appreciative children (and I agree that Ipods and gameboys don't necessarily make them dull.)

We've been taking our kids to Europe for several years now and it's been so rewarding with such great family memories. I look forward to hearing about the rest of your vacation.

hi, Kimi,

a truly great report.

I suspect that your boys have inherited their mother's positive attitude and enthusiams!

your comments about arriving somewhere and immediately wishing you had booked for longer struck a chord - and should be a lesson for those who belong to the "if it's tuesday it must be Rome" brigade. There are very few places I've been where I've wished I had less time - usually I'm frustrated by trying to cram everything in.

looking fwd to more,

regards, ann

Kimi,
Wow. What a trip!! i can't wait to hear more!
thanks for sharing!!
dina

You know Europe will be there next year too. You don't have to cram everything in. I know, I never do. I love home exchanging so much because it gives me a free base to radiate out in day trips. I usually beat the area to death where the exchange is located with one side trip with overnights. Then I go back to do it again in another place--but not necessarily every year. You do not have to "do it all"--in fact it is impossible.

I certainly couldn't have watched my kids jump or dive from cliffs...some things moms just aren't supposed to see.

It's fabulous that they told you not to have a bellini because the white peaches were not in season...I wonder what kind of frozen peach concentrate is used to make the bellini's I've had here!

Missipie,
I just ordered some frozen white peach concentrate from http://www.perfectpuree.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=category&sectionid=1&id=11&Itemid=9

It arrived today. I'll let you know how it is, supposedly it makes fantastic Bellinis.

Kimi,
what a great trip you had!

I was really interested in your stay at the Miramare, as we have two kids and it's not easy finding accomodations. I looked at their website and saw they have an "apartment". Is that what you booked?

Also, did they still have that "complimentary" sailboat ride that another poster mentioned?

the boating trip you did do sounds wonderful! I bookmarked their website, as well. They don't have prices, though. do you remember about how much your trip cost?

thanks!
dina

Thanks you so much for your report. It's a big help since we just booked tickets to take our 11 yr. old grandson to Europe for his first trip, for next March!

Bookmarking....

March 2008

Please forgive me for my delay in sending in a new post. The Scholar and Lunatic have had me very busy this summer.

DAY Eight – June 7

We slept well last night. I think Positano has put a hypnotic spell over all of us. Once again, we all meet on the terrace for breakfast and just breathe in the view. Did I mention the lemon trees? There are lemon trees everywhere (even on our terrace) with the hugest lemons I’ve ever seen. We take a few more photos, get a “cuddle” (hug) from Rosita and then our porter grabs all three pieces of our luggage and walks up the 200 stairs to our Fiat Van. Without hesitation, we would recommend the Miramare to anyone. The staff is lovely and friendly, the breakfast abundant, the location perfect and the two bedroom “suite/apartment” was perfect for our family – we feel like we have been spoiled for the past three nights! On our drive out of Positano, our heads all crane back to the town and to the coast for our last glimpses of paradise! DH/Mario navigates the scooters, curvy roads, around the fruit stands to the Autostrade. We stop for fuel and snacks (even the little sandwiches you pick up at fuel stops are fresh and wonderful) and then I drive for a few hours, past Roma and on our way to Tuscany.

Just a few minutes north of Rome, the landscape begins to change to the rolling hills, distant walled towns on the top of every little hill, vineyards and cypress trees. Everyone is happy. The boys spend a little time reading and playing the game boys. DH/Mario and I chat about every moment of our adventure thus far. We are making great time so we decided to make a little stop in Orvieto along the way. Orvieto is so impressive and commanding as it sits high above a lush valley carved out of volcanic rock. Get this …. the Romans attacked and sacked the city in 283 BC. We walked around the ancient wall, the boys played in the park and we purchased some candy and fruit from a small cart vendor. We pile back in the Fiat and head for Castellina in Chianti.

We have had gorgeous weather all day, but as we approach Siena, it begins to thunderstorm. We get a bit lost in Siena, but finally find the SR222, we make a needless detour to Badesse, past Lornanto and finally find the little, white dirt road to the Fattoria Tregole (www.fattoria-tregole.com). As we are driving on this dirt road in the middle of a storm, we are all longing for Positano and wondering why we left. Our first impression of this little farm is not too favorable, but we soon realize that Fattoria Tregole is another paradise. We meet Edith, get our luggage settled into our two bedroom apartment, and venture out to dinner. We consider going back into Siena for dinner, but we’re a bit road weary and don’t want to fight the storm. We take Edith’s recommendation and go into Castellina for dinner. We visit a small restaurant, Osteria Il Tinello Birreria - we enjoy peposa (peppered roast), steak, pasta and a bottle of Chianti Classico – it is a small, modest restaurant, but a fantastic meal! When we exit the restaurant, the storm has moved on, the clouds have lifted, the light is gorgeous. We drive further into town and find a gelateria. All is well! We drive back down our country road to our comfortable little apartment, we play another game of cards and settle in for the night.

dina4: As I mentioned in Day Eight that I just posted, we did indeed rent the apartment. The apartment was perfect for our needs. We had plenty of room, it was very comfortable, we had our own spacious terrace with an amazing view and the staff was wonderful. Also, the Miramare sits in the middle of the town so it is a convenient walk down to the beach or up to the main road where all the shops are located.

We did not utilize the free boat ride. I had read so many rave reviews on this site about the boat service I mentioned (http://www.gennaroesalvatore.it/) that I knew I wanted to spend a day of our trip touring the Amalfi coast by boat. Also, I knew after visiting all of the historical sites of Rome, the boys would need a fun day! I do not remember the exact cost of the trip, but I remember thinking it was resonable since it included lunch and drinks on board the boat. Send them an e-mail and they will quote you a price. The price was less for the boys than adults and they only take cash payment.

Welcome back, Kimi! Can't wait to hear more about Tuscany.

What a fun trip and lifelong memories. Kimi, you should pull this in and try to get it published. This is great encouragement for other (would be) traveling families.

Thanks for the info, Kimi.

DAY Nine – June 8 (part one)

We opened the wooden shutters on all of our windows this morning to find the sun shining on the most gorgeous hills, flowers and scenery. Everything is so beautiful that I almost feel like I’m on a movie set! We enjoy a wonderful breakfast overlooking vibrant vineyards and olive trees. All of the colors are intense – the lavender is bright purple, the roses are bright fuchsia, the mustard flowers are bright yellow. Edith and Margheritta attend to our every need and we enjoy the homemade jams, tart, breads, cappuccino, hot chocolate, etc.

Today we are going to explore the hill towns and we begin our journey by traveling to the Abby di Monte Oliveto Maggiore. Our drive leaving Castellina and on the way to the Abby is simply spectacular. Upon arriving at the Abby, we walk across what was once a moat and a draw bridge to the lovely grounds. Unfortunately, the Abby is closed and we cannot go in. The only monk we see is driving in to meet with his fellow monks. It is quiet and serene. The monks knew how to choose a great location in the fourteenth century!

We were planning on visiting Pienza next, but we come across the signs to Montalcino, so we drive on to this hill town. It is a quiet day in Montalcino, but we have a wine tasting in one of the many stores in town and order a few bottles of Brunello to be sent home – DH/Mario is very excited about this! And then onto Pienza. Everyone seems to be in Pienza today. We walk around this lovely town marveling at its beauty. We know we want to purchase some pecorino (when in Rome ….). After tasting a few samples, we decide on an aged pecorino and the store owner recommends the white boar salami to go with it - we sample it and also make that purchase. I’ve never had white boar salami before, but it is fantastic especially with pecorino cheese from Pienza (smile). The boys are delighted to tell everyone that they’ve eaten white boar salami! Then, onto Montepulciano. All of these medieval towns have very distinctive characteristics, piazzas, churches and narrow roads, but they are all captivating.

We had our laundry washed while in Positano. I did not have an organized list of all of our laundry and DH/Mario gave our bags of dirty laundry to Rosita. I think we received everything back, but I realized this morning that we did not have the Scholar’s blue jeans, so the Scholar and the Lunatic make a joke out of looking on every laundry line through the hill towns looking for the jeans – this becomes quite comical.

Day Nine - June 8 (part two)

We enjoyed this day of driving through the countryside, getting lost around each bend (not really lost, just sort of confused), particularly looking for the elusive Pienza. We found ourselves near Siena at dinnertime. We parked outside the walls of Siena and let the boys play on the swing set and monkey bars while we sit on a bench staring at the gorgeous view. The boys enjoy these moments of play and we enjoy these moments of rest, then we walk through the city streets to a restaurant near the Duomo that a friend of ours back home has recommended - Antica Osteria Da Divo. To the boys delight, the waiter pours each of us a glass of prosecco - we shared a toast and allow each of them each to have a small sip. DH/Mario and I share a bottle of Brunello and are thrilled that we will have a few bottles to share when we get home. We have a lovely meal and then decide to walk around Siena.

The Lunatic and I sit on the stairs of the Duomo while DH/Mario and the Scholar seek out an ATM machine. The Lunatic and I are all alone on the stairs of this gorgeous Duomo – no one else is around – it is dusk and almost a little eerie it is so quiet. Out of the corner of my eye, I see a lace curtain move in a window right above us and then I notice an elderly woman – probably close to age 90 watering her plants on the small balcony literally feet away from the Duomo. I notice the way she is looking for each plant with her hands and then feels the earth to make sure it is wet enough. The Lunatic and I begin to quietly talk about this woman and wonder about her life. Has she lived here all her life? Did she send a soldier off to battle from this balcony? Did he come home to her? Did she raise her children playing on the very steps we’re sitting on? For some reason, the images of this woman remain with me. I wish I could talk to her and hear her life story. When DH/Mario and the Scholar return, I look back up to the balcony and the woman is gone. The boys are eager to find their nightly gelato, so we walk to the piazza which has to be one of the greatest piazzas in Italy. The boys eat their gelato and then DH/Mario and I watch them run around the piazza. It seemed like dusk near the Duomo, but here in this great open space, the bricks and large clock tower are glowing in the setting sun. I am having another one of those pinch me moments - I can’t believe I am sitting here with the man I love watching our children play where thousands of children have played for hundreds of years. We walk back to the Fiat Van and drive back to Tregole where we settle in for an early evening.

kimiG - I'm really enjoying reading your trip report. You have an absolutely wonderful way of storytelling that is simply captivating. Your family trip sounds like a dream come true!

KimiG - just found your report as we were out of town for a few weeks. So glad you enjoyed the Albergo Cesari and Fattoria Tregole. If I recall, you chose Tregole on my recommendation. We too, had a similar reaction when we first drove up, but ended up really enjoying our stay there, and loved the apartment with all of the extra room.

We loved the quad room at the Cesari and so glad to hear the "air conditioning was fantastic." Our first time there was in March so no need for a/c but last June we were there right before they closed for the renovations, so the a/c was definitely lacking - glad to hear the remodel was a success.

DAY Ten – June 9

I am fully aware that seeing Florence as a day trip would be blasphemy to most people, but when planning a two week trip to Italy, one must make choices. I made the Scholar and Lunatic aware the day before that this would be our earliest day of the trip and that we would cover a lot of ground in a short period of time. So, we leave the lovely Fattoria Tregole at 7:00 a.m. and take the SR222 into Florence. We know that we could have taken the autostrade, but the countryside is absolutely magnificent in the morning light – we are even more enchanted with Tuscany! We have a morning walking tour scheduled with Artviva (www.artviva.com) and we must meet our group at 9:15 a.m. We arrive in Florence around 8:00 a.m with time to spare (at this point we have a false sense of security because we have not found parking). We find the Porta Romana somewhat quickly – there is no parking available in the blue lot, but DH/Mario finds a parking spot with white lines in front of a butcher shop – he parallel parks into the spot. I’m not sure if this is a legal spot or not. I ask the gentleman in the butcher shop and he says it’s fine. We walk into the city gates and stop for a cappuccino and a few sweet rolls for the boys. Over cappuccino, I have a conversation with a nice young Italian woman who is a student in Florence. I randomly ask her about our parking spot – she asks a few locals – and they tell us that the car will be towed without a permit. At this point it is 8:45 a.m. Poor DH/Mario runs back to the car and begins the frenzied search for a new parking spot. He finally finds a spot in the paid lot, but does not have enough Euro coins to put in the meter and he cannot find anyone to give him change. He purchases a box of fresh cherries from a produce cart and asks for as many coins for change – he gets a few, but not a lot and he fills the meter up to 1:30. My hero comes running up to the coffee shop with his box of cherries, we jump in a cab and meet our walking tour with about five minutes to spare – whew!

Our tour consists of about ten people, our tour guide is Faya (sp?) and is originally from Australia – she is fun, witty, very knowledgeable! In three hours, we feel like we have a real connection to Florence! She takes us by statues created by Donatello, a Medici owned palace (not the Pitty Palace) – she points out the differences in medieval architecture and the architecture of the Renaissance. We stop in the City Hall Piazza to admire all the statues, the original location of David – she really makes the Renaissance come to life and is quite humorous regarding the Medici family and their constant pursuit of power. The Scholar is starving and we purchase a croissant with proscutto and mozzarella for two Euros that absolutely melts in your mouth – fantastico! The Lunatic must use the restroom which becomes one of our greatest challenges of our two weeks in Italy. DH/Mario purchases a soft drink, Lunatic enters the bathroom and then returns five minutes later to tell us there is no toilet. The tour ends at the Duomo and in front of the Baptistry doors. I wish that I could take the time to truly study each panel of the door without the push and pull of the crowd. The boys and I stand in line to go in the Duomo and DH/Mario takes a cab back to our car to put more money in the meter (I don’t even want to think about how much parking the car has cost us today). Around each corner of this city, there is an absolute wonder.

We have decided that since we are only in Florence for the day that we should have a Florentine steak for lunch. We ask three local people and they all send us to Trattoria Mario (www.trattoriamario.com). We walk to the restaurant and there is a line outside the door (a good sign). We wait for about 20 minutes for a table and then are greeted like family (as if we’ve been there a hundred times) as we enter the door. Mario’s is a father/son establishment. There is no menu – a few things hand written by the cashier’s table. We tell our server that we want a steak – “How many kilos?” he asks. We have no idea. He cuts one kilo and brings in to us – it is gynormus (as the Scholar would say). So for 40 Euros we share a gynormus Florentine steak cooked to perfection, three orders of French fries, one order of white beans, three liters of cold water – this is an amazing meal!

As we leave Mario’s, we purchase a few souvenirs. DH/Mario and I have already realized that we need to buy a new luggage piece to contain all of our Italian treasures. I find the most gorgeous red leather carry on bag with wonderful hardware, wheels and a separate shoe compartment. I know that I will enjoy traveling with this bag for many years to come! We walk back to meet our next Artviva tour to see Michelangelo’s David. When arranging our tours from the states, I considered booking all three Florence tours but I just thought it would make the day too challenging for the boys. I hated to miss the Uffizi, but again, it’s impossible to do everything on one trip. We meet our art historian guide and our group of about a dozen people. I wish I could remember the name of our guide – she was really fantastic. While walking through the streets of Florence, she provided us with a great history of the region and how art emerged during the Renaissance thanks to the Medici family. She made Michelangelo come to life for my boys – not like some cooky Renaissance artist, but like a brilliant rock star. She took us by the Duomo and showed us the location where David was intended to spend eternity then to the Accademia. Suddenly you walk around the corner and there he is – David! As you walk toward David, you feel Michelangelo’s genius. Even my boys sensed that it was an honor to stand there and admire this creation – the detail, the furrow in his brow, the fear in his eyes, the stance of his legs and the strength in his shoulders. As the art historian spoke she made reference to David’s sling shot…. the Scholar raised his hand. “Do you have a question?” she asked. “No, a comment.” He sheepishly states. “David was holding a sling, not a sling shot. It was much more difficult to aim a sling at Goliath than a sling shot.” The art historian was so very gracious and offered kudos to the Scholar and then went on to point out that you could see the leather sling draped over his shoulder and that she would give him credit with this observation in all of her future tours. The Scholar felt very important.

As we leave the Accademia, we are exhausted. We have walked and walked and walked. Lunatic (the 8 year old) has calves of steel! As we are walking back to our car, we pass the McDonald’s and pick up two burgers and fries for the boys. DH/Mario and I are still full from lunch. On our way out of Florence, we stop at a roadside produce stand and pick up a watermelon and some apricots. We get back to Fattoria Tregole and enjoy our fresh fruit as we watch the sun setting on the distant hills. We are tired but had an amazing day. We all loved Florence and this little farm is soothing and comforting.

I think you did very well with your one day in Florence - and I love Florence! (Of course, I traveled there in the off-season so no crowds and no heat.) I have never driven there, but I can totally imagine, having dodged my share of scooters

David is absolutely breathtaking and I'm glad you made the choice of him over the Uffizi - which is wonderful but larger and more time-consuming.

We did a couple of walking tours as well and the quality of the guides and their love of the city and its history really impressed us.

I continue to love your experiences, your writing style and your family. The closeness within your family really comes across and is a treasure which I'm sure you value, knowing that it is becoming increasingly rare in these complicated times.

DAY Eleven – June 10

La dolce vita – the sweetness of life! Our little farm is the perfect place for a day of rest and to enjoy the sweetness of doing nothing! I let the boys sleep to almost ten and then we enjoy a lovely relaxed breakfast. I can tell that Margherita has a soft place in her heart for the Lunatic – every time he tries out an Italian word or phrase, she claps her hands and says “bravo” and then his eyes twinkle! Both of my children are appreciative of Edith and Margherita – they enjoy several hot chocolates and an abundant breakfast surrounded by gorgeous flowers and fragrances. The day feels special!

After breakfast the boys swim in the infinity pool. Dh/Mario and I sit in one of the brick terraces surrounded by fruit trees overlooking the vineyard – we catch up on our journal and marvel at our surroundings! At noon, Edith very graciously takes us on a tour of her cellar. During our day touring the hill towns, we stopped at a few vineyards for a wine tasting and none of the places were open. We didn’t realize that we could achieve the experience on our little farm. As luck would have it, Edith produces one of the Top 20 Chianti Classicos in Italy – it is very good! She led us to the cellar that dates back to the year 1,000. She allowed us to taste the recent harvest, the 2004 harvest and the Cabernet harvest –all before blended. We found the process very interesting and I am fascinated with Edith.

Before becoming an inn keeper and wine producer, she lived a fast paced life of someone who restored frescos. Her husband was an architect and they lived with their family in Northern Italy – they both traveled a great deal. Eight years ago, they changed their life. Bought and restored this farm, planted grapes and the rest is history. We find Edith’s artistic touches throughout our apartment, the other rooms and breakfast area. I tell her that she should write a book and she just waves me off and says, “Who has time for such things?” The web site for Fattoria Tregole does not do it justice. Every path leads to a new vantage point with a mesmerizing view. The flowers are planted artistically – like a Monet painting. We spend the afternoon by the infinity pool relaxing and savoring.

While I rearrange all of our luggage, DH/Mario takes the boys into town to find the Etruscan tombs – about 200 meters past the gelateria – they don’t seem to be too impressed with this little adventure. When they return, the boys get cleaned up and DH/Mario enjoy a walk down the little country lane imagining this landscape through the centuries. I’m sure it hasn’t changed much. DH/Mario asked Edith about WW II and she responds that the farm was occupied by the German’s during the war, but then goes to say that the area was most dangerous during the wars between Florence and Siena (as if those wars were just as recent). We sit under the arbor at the end of the pool enjoying a bottle of Fattoria Tregole Chianti Classico and enjoying the view of the rolling hills. Every ten minutes the light changes and there is a new discovery.

Tonight, Edith and Margherita have prepared a Tuscan feast! We gather around the table with the Germans, South African citizens who live in Rhode Island and two sisters – one from NY and the other from DC (the Greeks were out for dinner). Dinner is unbelievable – the tiramisu is the best I’ve ever eaten. At the end of dinner, we enjoy a lemoncello that Edith made from her mother-in-law’s lemons (of course, she did). The Lunatic (who tells me that I really should refer to him properly as Lunatic Maximus and not just the Lunatic – everyone is a critic) is very chatty this evening, the boys are engaging and enjoy sharing stories of our adventure with our fellow guests.

Following dinner, we go back to one of the little brick terraces and play cards by candle light. We notice the lighting bugs (fireflies). I don’t know why, but this seems odd to me - I wouldn’t have thought that there were lighting bugs in Tuscany. Back home in the Smoky Mountains near Gatlinburg, there is a location where lighting bugs blink in unison for about ten days out of the year – the ultimate light show. I wonder if there is a similar phenomenon in Tuscany with Italian lighting bugs.

I am fully aware that I am living the best days of my life!

LCBoniti: Thank you for your kind words. It's hard to know if a trip report has any value to others, but I know I obtained so much helpful information from reading trip reports while planning our trip. Specifically, the family trip reports (shout out to jgg) gave me the courage to continue planning a trip that seemed very daunting in the beginning! I feel a bit self indulgent, but I have enjoyed recapping our trip as a family memory!

KimiG,
Your report is great! We have 9 and 12 year old DSs and I'm starting the planning process for their first trip to Europe. Your information is great!

Keep it coming.....

Marla

"Lunatic Maximus" - LOL

Fattoria Tregole sounds amazing. I will definitley keep this information on file. You never know when I'll need it

And, yes, writing a trip report is a bit self-indulgent. But it also contributes greatly to this website. I read many before our trip to Italy last year and what they contributed, besides basic information, was a true feeling for the country that really enhanced my anticipation of the trip and my enjoyment of it once I was there. I am now reading everything I can on the British Isles, since that is our next destination, but I can't help but check out the new ones on Italy since I really fell in love with that wonderful place.

Well, Kimi, this report should be put in the Fodor's Hall of Fame of Trip Reports (if there was one).

Rarely do I read one that brings out all the emotions, you are a lovely writer. Thanks for including us in telling us your adventure.

KimiG, we are going in just 9 weeks and, after reading your BEAUTIFUL (not shouting--that's awe) trip report, I can hardly wait!!! Thank you so much for letting us "peek into" your very special family time! I feel almost like I was there in person. Thank you again.

DAY Twelve – June 11

Once again, we slept well! So peacefully! We opened the shutters on our windows to breathe in the Tuscan air for one last morning. We sat outside and enjoyed our lovely breakfast and cappuccino and Edith and Margherita fussed over our boys and made them feel so special! It tugged at my heart a bit to leave. Margherita brought me our laundry and we loaded up the Fiat van for our last day of driving. We hugged and kissed our new friends as if we were leaving family – this was now our little piece of Tuscany.

Next stop … Venezia! We went through Castellina to the autostrade, skirted around Florence. All was going well until we missed the A-13 in Bologna – oh well! Back to Bologna then to Venice! I must confess that I was very excited to be going to Venice, but very intimidated about getting there. Would we find the rental car drop off? Would we encounter thieves while trying to load our earthly possessions (at least those in Italy) on a boat? For some reason, this seemed very complicated to me. We easily found the rental car location, parked and unloaded – no problems there. We had made assignments and everyone had their responsibilities. Three rolling suitcases, DH’s carry-on, Scholar’s backpack, new red bag from Florence, my tote bag (now nicknamed the man purse or murse for short by the kids), the art canister from Roma and the large umbrella purchased from the gypsies in Rome – got it! We had decided on our drive down to splurge on a water taxi – so we easily cross the street to the pier and before my mind can even wrap around it, we’re floating down the Grand Canal smiling ear to ear! Wow! We zig- zag around a few little canals – I feel like a five year old at Disney World – my eyes are wide open and I don’t want to blink for fear that I’ll miss something and then we pull up to this little door and smiling faces and we unload at the Locanda Orseolo (www.locandaorseolo.com). Francisco and Gigi help us get to our rooms – I will never forget their smiles upon our arrival. Remember my intimidation of Venice – it’s now gone!

We drop all of our stuff in two rooms across the hall from each other. We tell the boys that we’re going to take a few moments to get settled, then in 15 minutes when we knock on their door, we find them lounging on their bed in the LO robes (over their clothes) and slippers playing their Nintendo DS’s (adorable). We walk down to the reception desk and Francisco pulls out a little map of Venice, makes dinner reservations for us and suddenly we are navigating the little streets of Venice! Out the door of the LO, through the gate, straight ahead over a little bridge and we’re in San Marco’s square. Unbelievable! In San Marco square we find the least expensive form of entertainment in all of Italy – feeding the pigeons! For one Euro each, the boys have a bag of pigeon food that turns into 30 minutes of joy. They laugh (actually giggle) and have pigeons landing in both hands, their head – they are delighted (no worries … I have antibacterial gel when they finish). DH/Mario and I recreate a scene from a sappy movie and run toward each other with arms wide open. Everyone has a smile on their face! We walk back toward the LO, to the right of the gate and purchase two pieces of pizza for the boys – the pieces are handed to them steaming hot and folded like a taco – the boys eat while we walk and I window shop! I have to look in every window and admire the Murano glass, the variety of masks and occasional sweet shop.

Then in a few twists and turns, we are at the Rialto Bridge – I have no words left – I still can’t believe that we’re here! Francisco and Gigi told us about their sister hotel, Al Ponte Antico (www.alponteantico.com), we easily find it and are once again welcomed with huge smiles from Oliver and Matteo! Matteo leads us to his terrace and explains that this hotel is a new acquisition. With just reason, he is very proud and also announces that they have lots of plans and work to do. It looks gorgeous to me. Matteo pours a few glasses of prosecco for us, two glasses of soda for the boys and we play cards with this amazing view of the Grand Canal and the Rialto Bridge. If I am dreaming – please do not wake me up! We share the view with a family from Russia and two couples from the UK celebrating an anniversary. The other people leave the terrace for dinner before us and I feel privileged to be sitting on this gorgeous balcony overlooking this beautiful view that I have seen hundreds of times in movies. The vaporettos are packed with people leaving Venice and once again, I am thrilled that we decided to linger in each town instead of seeing Italy from a Mediterranean cruise. Truly, it is as if the city is emptying out. As we leave the Al Ponte Antico and cross over the Rialto Bridge, the crowd of people is significantly less. We walk to Ostaria Antico Dolo and enjoy fresh seafood and pasta for dinner – wonderful meal! After dinner, we stroll along the Grand Canal, over the Rialto, we stop at Michelangelo’s for gelato, then back fo a glimpse of San Marco’s Square to the restful Locanda Orseolo. We are in Venice!

lovesroses, SeaUrchin, ozres, LCBoniti: Thank you for your encouragement. It is exciting to know that others are enjoying the trip report and hopefully is helpful in someway. I am so thankful to other people who took the time to post trip reports. As LCBoniti noted, not only did they help me in the planning process, but the anticipation does build as you share the adventure with someone who has just been there. During the cold months of January and February this year, I spent hours and hours sitting by my fireplace with my laptop in my lap smiling ear to ear as I read the glowing reports of other travelers. Again, thank you!

Nothing quite like climbing through that window at LO and being welcomed to Venice!! Their new place Alponte Antico, sounds wonderful as well. They are all such gracious hosts. It sounds like your time in Venice started out great!

KimiG
I'm just curious - as I am sure others are. Are you a writer by an chance?
What have you written? Hope I'm not too forward.
I hope you take this as a compliment.

ttt

DAY Thirteen – June 12

About the time we went to bed last night there was a thunderstorm – the lighting and gentle rain just added to the mystery and magic of Venice! As usual, I awoke before everyone else and went down to the breakfast room. Actually, I decided to sit by the canal door and open the door. I sipped a cappuccino and watched the gondolas go by. Two American girls from California sat down next to me. They are just beginning their trip. We are ending ours. We talk on and on about Italy and I tell them about some of our favorite locations. They don’t have reservations yet for Tuscany and I tell them about the lovely Fattoria Tregole and gave them the web site. The boys join me in a bit – actually Lunatic Maximus comes down in his p.j’s and tousled hair and is adorable. Barbara is so wonderful and gracious. She makes them the infamous chocolate crepes and I enjoy a chocolate and banana crepe – unbelievable! I leave them by the canal door to go get ready for the day.

I was in the room preparing to get in the shower when the most eerie thing happened. I heard a knock on the door. I grabbed my robe and opened the door. Lunatic Maximus walked in excitedly and said, “Mom, I saw this book (Rick Steves guide to Venice) and thought you might like it.” He walked toward me and handed it to me. This is where the eerie part comes in …. it was a moment in time …. standing there in that exact room, wearing that robe, with my young son walking toward me with a large blue book that I had vividly lived before. I guess that’s what they call deja vu , but it was such a vivid memory. In fact, last year we were on the Disney Cruise in the Caribbean when we first talked about going to Europe with the boys and I dreamed this exact moment. I was also touched that he looked up on a book shelf and thought of me. DH/Mario later told me that he was so excited to bring me the book. This may seem odd to you, but it was so impressionable and again unexplainable!

Barbara made reservation for us for the 10:45 a.m. Doge’s Secret Itinerary Tour. We leisurely strolled through San Marco’s Square, along the lagoon, counting winged lions along the way to the palace. We absolutely loved this tour! The boys were fascinated with the secret rooms, the cell that contained Casanova and the stories of his planned and eventual escape, the torture chamber, etc. Our tour guide was a very knowledgeable yet stern woman with the thinnest lips I’ve ever seen and eggplant colored hair. We all agreed that if she had been in Venice when Napoleon came to town, things might have turned out differently (smile). The boys were gleeful as we stopped to feed the pigeons again – they really love feeding those pigeons!

During the afternoon, it rained a bit and the boys were content to stay in their room playing their Nintendos. DH/Mario and I cuddled up under an umbrella and just walked the streets of Venice, wondering in and out of little shops and making little purchases. Very romantic and enjoyable! Around 5:00 we took the boys back to the balcony of the Al Ponte Antico. Oliver recommended that he make us the drink of Venice - the famous spritz (yum) and we enjoyed playing cards again overlooking the Grand Canal! We have now played cards overlooking the coliseum, the Mediterranean Sea, the vineyards of Tuscany and the Grand Canal of Venice – what fun!

For dinner, we followed the Fodor’s book suggestions and went to Corte Sconta (www.ristorantibuonaaccoglienzavenezia.it) and had a lovely garden table. Our only negative is that we ordered too much food – the seafood appetizer is a meal in itself (and a grand meal it is). All of the food was fresh and fantastic. We waddled back along the lagoon, listened to a wonderful guitar player, took in the magic through San Marco square, picked up gelato for the boys and to our friendly Locanda Orseolo. What a fantastic day!

nanabee: Thank you for the compliment but I am not a writer, just someone who felt so blessed and fortunate to visit such a wonderful country and share the adventure with the people I love the most! Again, thanks for reading!

thank you kimi for such a wonderful report!!

Kimi,

Really enjoying your report! Loved all the details, and after finishing my first trip report, I know how much work you put into yours!

DAY Fourteen – June 13 – My 40th Birthday

There is no way to fail with this plan. If you want to look forward instead of dreading your 40th birthday, spend one year planning a trip to Italy and purposely celebrate your birthday in Venice!

I awoke this morning to the most gorgeous golden light filtering through the windows. I hear DH/Mario singing Happy Birthday. I throw open the windows and look down on the canal. It is my 40th birthday and I am blessed to share it with the people I love the most in this fascinating and romantic city! I walk downstairs to the breakfast room and Francisco and Gigi wish me a happy birthday almost in unison. I sit down next to the CA girls, Kimberly and Wendy, and they have a birthday card for me, then Barbara brings me a little pastry with a candle in it along with a precious little gift of pretty soaps. When the boys join me in the breakfast room, they are full of hugs and kisses and birthday accolades. I am bathed in luxury and I feel special today (and the day has just started)!

Wendy and Kimberly tell me that based on our recommendation, they spoke with Edith and were able to book the same apartment we stayed in at Fattoria Tregole. I am delighted. Also, we accidentally left Tregole with our apartment key, so they agree to return it. They will love it there!

Following our amazing breakfast of chocolate crepes, eggs, hot chocolate and cappuccino, we decide to walk through Venice to the pier (I don’t think my eyes have closed yet for fear that I’ll miss something). We get on the vaporetto for a quick 15 minute ride to Murano. We walk around the glass island for about an hour, watch the artisans making glass and purchase a few treasures. Then we get back on the vaporetto and quickly met a family from North Carolina with a son the age of Lunatic Maximus and a daughter the age of the Scholar. Lunatic clearly needed a new audience, because he talks non-stop on the long ride from Murano to San Marco. It’s adorable to watch two eight year olds passionately discussing their trips to Italy – their hands were flying in the air just like the Italians. Of course, the two twelve year olds were much cooler but still interested in comparing stories. Our two families walk to San Marco square where all four kids feed the pigeons. Once again, the children are simply gleeful about feeding the pigeons! There is no line at the Basillica, so our families walk in the Basillica and we amazed by the beauty of these great cathedrals throughout Italy. I am in awe to know that Mark is buried beneath the Basillica. I lose my boys for a few moments and see them in the little chapel to the left saying a prayer – they truly are angels! They look so reverent with their heads bowed and hands closed.

Along with our new friends, we walk through the narrow little streets and across the Rialto bridge and we each make a few purchases along the way. The only souvenir that the boys have really wanted on this trip was a Venetian mask. We find two masks with incredibly long crooked noses for 15 Euros each at a street vendor near the bridge – the boys take great care in picking out these masks. We bid adieu to our new friends. They are in search of a Murano glass chess set.

We go back to our special terrace near the bridge to bask in the view one last time! Matteo and Oliver welcome us with open arms and they also wish me a happy birthday. Matteo makes us a spritz, we toast (salute) and the four of sit there. We study the view, the people moving about, each boat coming and going. We are fascinated by the hustle and bustle on the Grand Canal – the FedEx boat, the delivery boat with cases of water and paper towels, the boat loaded down with luggage, etc. Again, the vaporettos are loaded with people leaving the city for the day and again, I feel like this is our city and feel honored to remain!

As we leave the Al Ponte Antico, I remember a store near the bridge where I saw a set of champagne flutes. On the way, I see a Murano glass chess set and wish I knew how to contact our new friends – then I enter the store containing the champagne flutes and they are there. I lead them back to the chess set – they are thrilled. My birthday present (as if I need one with this amazing trip) are the champagne flutes and I am beaming with pride. We walk back to the LO to prepare for dinner and our gondola ride.

We were going to go on a gondola ride before dinner, but a large group were in line and we decided perhaps after dinner would be good for the gondola ride. Barbara made reservations for us and we thoroughly enjoyed her suggestion of L’Osteria di Santa Marina (www.osteriadisantamarina.it). So we walk over the little bridges and around little canals to Campo Fermosa and then to Santa Marina. We had a lovely table sitting outside, DH/Mario ordered a bottle of prosecco and we had one of our loveliest meals in all of Italy. I had the risotto with scallops and asparagus, DH/Mario had the veal, we had several seafood appetizers and the cheese course – fantastico! My three boys have made my day so special! As we walk back to find a gondola – it begins to gently rain. We realize that the gondola ride will have to wait for our next trip – again, a good excuse to return.

Following our walk back to the LO, we opened the canal door and the four of us watched the rain on the canal and we could hear live music playing in the distance. The boys wished us good night with hugs and kisses and exclamations of another special day and they went up to their room. Dh/Mario and I grab the umbrella and follow the music around the corner. We sit under a lovely canopy near the canal (it is a 4 star hotel where Casanova once lived) and listen to a piano player sometimes sing in Italian, sometimes in English. The piano bar singer is good and we toast to our last night in Venice. What a perfect day, night, birthday to share with my amazing husband and children. I am richly blessed and this is truly a birthday to remember throughout the ages!

Yes, you are blessed and the wonderful thing is that you appreciate it.

DAY Fifteen – June 14

Once again, the light is golden as it streams in through the window. Typically, I hop out of bed to start the day. This day, I stretch and savor the moment of waking up in Venice for the last time. I lean out the window and watch the busy canal traffic and pedestrian traffic and smile. Over breakfast, Barbara prepares her famous chocolate crepes for the boys and we compare a few more stories with the California girls. They are excited to spend a few days relaxing at Fattoria Tregole and we are excited that they will be going there – Lunatic Maximus asks them to give a hug to Margherita and Edith for him. That’s one thing that I did not anticipate before this trip, how attached we became to people in such a short period of time. My only regret of the entire trip is that I did not take pictures of my children with people who showed them so much care and enhanced the beauty of our trip! I feel fortunate that we stayed in the unique locations we stayed in and am so thankful for their patience and affection toward my children. I will miss all of their smiles and again wished that I had captured them with the Scholar and Lunatic Maximus.

After breakfast we arrange and store our luggage and go to feed the pigeons one last time. What will these pigeons do without my children feeding them each day (smile)? We walk to the lagoon, count a few more winged lions and bask in Venice. San Marco’s square has been my children’s playground for the past few days and more than likely they will not be children if they ever come here again. This thought brings tears to my eyes and again wish for a secret potion to make time stand still. They are growing so quickly. When considering this trip, there were times I wondered if they were ready for a trip like this and I have no doubt that we have friends that think we’re crazy, but this has been a truly magical time for the four of us. I will always treasure these days and am so grateful that they had the opportunity to meet Italy with the joy of youth and that DH/Mario and I shared the adventure with them!

We splurged on a water taxi again leaving Venice, we waved good bye to our favorite terrace near the Rialto bridge. We breathed in this magical city on water one last time. Before we were ready, we were disembarking at the train station. We had hoped to fly “open jaw” into Rome and out of Venice, but since we were using FF miles, this seemed to be impossible. So, on our last day in Italy we begin a new adventure. We schlep all of our earthly possessions (those in Italy) to the train station and try to figure out how to get on the 13:22 train (and protect our children and stuff at the same time). Hmmmmm … there is no 13:22 train to Roma. With 20 minutes to spare, I get in a line and ask in very broken Italian how to find the train to Roma. A gentleman points up to a sign that says the 13:23 train to Napoli – rail five. But I tell him that rail five says it’s going to Budapest – “exactly”, he replies. With ten minutes to spare, I tell DH/Mario that we should board the train to Budapest. We really aren’t sure if we’re getting on the right train. After a few more scenarios that seem to be out of an “I Love Lucy” episode, we finally find our compartment that we share with a Japanese couple to Florence.

We spend about 5 ½ hours on the train passing a very familiar landscape. We reminisce along the way, pointing out places of interest and “remembering when”. When first planning this trip, the process seemed daunting, but in two weeks we have absolutely fallen in love with the beauty and the people of Italy! After our Japanese friends get off in Florence, a rather bedraggled Italian gentleman joined us in our compartment. He sat next to DH/Mario and seemed to be watching me closely. At one point, DH/Mario mouths the words, “be careful” to me. The man doesn’t seem to understand a word that we’re saying, but then I think maybe he’s just acting that way. As DH/Mario and I are talking, I mention what a bummer it is that we ran out of Euros in Venice that we’ll have to find a bank as soon as we get to Roma (wink, wink). DH/Mario looks at me and says, “What are you talking about? I went to the ATM machine right before we left Venice.” Genius! Anyway, no worries, I think the guy was annoyed with my boys and he moved on to another compartment.

We pass the rolling hills of Tuscany, our beloved farm house is on the other side of one of those hills, we see Orvieto high on the hill, it’s past 5:00 p.m. and we already miss our spritz time on the Venetian terrace with Oliver and Matteo. I feel Italy slipping away from us. At 19:03 we prepare to face the madness of the Rome train station. We have warned the boys to stay close, to not talk to strangers, everyone has their responsibilities and once again, we get everything loaded to the taxi with no problems. Once in the taxi, we skirted around some of our favorite sites of Roma – down the Via del Corso around the VIttorio Emanelle Monument, the coliseum – the eternal city! Two weeks ago, this city was totally unknown to us and now it feels like our city.

While arranging the trip from the U.S., it seemed like a good idea to book our last night in Rome at the airport Marriott Courtyard. In retrospect, that was the only huge blunder I made – I would have given anything for one more night at the Cesari next to the Pantheon to walk around to the Trevi Fountain with a gelato from Giolitti’s even if it did make the next morning more difficult. We checked into the Marriot Courtyard and it was fine, but just like every other Marriott Courtyard on the planet. We walked into Fiumicino for one last meal in Italy We found a little restaurant, Fronte Del Porto where we shared a pizza diavalo, spaghetti and a Chianti Classico all for 28 Euros. We slowly walked back to the hotel arm in arm, stopped for gelato along the way and congratulated each other on a trip of a lifetime!

Wow! Congrats KimiG on a GREAT trip report! I enjoyed every minute/posting! Thank you for sharing.

Marla

Kimi,

Thanks so much for sharing your wonderful report! I can just imagine the two 8 year old excitedly speaking about there trips - I'm sure neither of your sons will ever forget your adventure to Italy!

Thank you so much for an absolutely beautiful trip report.

It reminded me that I once told my 10-year-old son that I wished I could wrap him up in a cocoon and keep him like that forever, he was such a joy. Well he is now 26 years old and still a joy. The teenage years are a little scary, but he is a fine young man - and still doesn't mind hanging out with his mom once in a while.

Your expressions really moved me so I probably got a little mushy with my replies - sorry!

I wish you all the best and hope that you will be able to take many more wonderful trips with your family.

Loved this report-thanks so much for the inspiration!

Fab report and recommendations - thanks!

kimiG, thank you for this heartfelt report. I would like to print it out and share it with non-Fodorite friends.

Bookmarking

wonderful report - thank you for referring me to it in my question regarding venetian restaurants. WG

bookmarking

Hi KimiG...I just spent all afternoon reading your trip report...cutting and pasting between posts.

Your descriptions are wonderful...not only of the places you saw and the people you met, but the feelings you felt about your young sons.

My family of six...myself, DH and 4 children (22,21,19 & 15) are leaving for Italy in three weeks. Rome, Florence and Venice. Reading your reports makes me so excited for all that we will see and feel as a family. You should know that although they grow up very fast...they don't really change that much. My 21 year old son will could very likely want to be called Lunatic Maximus just as he may have as an 8 year old...he WAS the Tazmanian Devil most of second grade. (now he's a Jr. in College studying film). I can't wait to watch my children play together...yes they still do play and pretend the same silly way now as they did back then. It's different but the same.

I can't wait for to get all the warm and fuzzy feelings I know I will feel on this vacation. Your report reminds me that this family only time we have together is so much more than museums and food. It is a priceless package and a wonderful gift to ourselves and our children.

Thank you very much for sharing!

Dear ChanB:

Thank you so much for your kind sentiments. It's nice to think of my children still playing together and DH and I looking on in ten years! Have an amazing trip! I know that you will! Our brief two weeks in Italy were truly among the most beautiful days of my life. We loved the history, the food, the people, but mostly the isolated time it gave us as a family. Several months later, my boys still say grazie and prego (with a special smile for me), they share their Italian adventure with anyone who will listen and for Halloween they are wearing their very special Venetian masks (we literally tried on every mask in every mask store!) I hope you have an opportunity to visit some of the restaurants we enjoyed - they were tremendous! I look forward to hearing about your adventure upon your return!

ttt

Well done! Thank you for an excellent trip report. In my mind's eye, I was right there with you.

KimiG - I'm supposed to be cleaning the kitchen while my DH gives the kids a bath. And I'm supposed to wait for him (and the kids to go to bed) before I read any trip reports.

But I couldn't resist and I've snuck in the first few paragraphs of yours

Looking forward to the rest tonight -- I was as equally excited about Rome when I went two years ago (with DH and 18 month old DD) Isn't Rome amazing and magical and fantastic?